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RE: Is there an online tool for floor plan / furniture arrangemen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sheesharee on 09.23.2008 at 08:28 am in Home Decorating Forum

There may be other sites out there but I've used the ashley room planner. You can create exact dimensions of the room and furniture.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ashley Room Planner

NOTES:

room planner for furniture placement
clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 09:38 am

RE: Help with an 'aqua' color for bedroom? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: caminnc on 07.29.2008 at 09:14 am in Home Decorating Forum

Here are a few insp. pics

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NOTES:

photo 3 for middle bedroom
clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 01:11 am    last updated on: 08.11.2008 at 01:12 am

RE: New grout, too light (gray), can I 'dye' it charcoal/black? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.03.2008 at 11:11 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Yes, you can, and regardless of what the color is now, or what you want it to be, it can be done, and relatively easily.

You said you've done some research and found the reference to Aquamix's colorants. They're the best there is. I have a link to where you can buy them on line, as well as a forum thread that gives explicit directions on using them.

Here's the url to buy them on line:

http://www.1877floorguy.com/grcopr.html

And below is the link to the forum thread. Refer to reply #2:

Here is a link that might be useful: Using Grout colorants

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 03:37 am    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 03:37 am

RE: Can I mix furniture colors in a small 12X12 room? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: texashottie on 07.07.2008 at 12:36 am in Home Decorating Forum

Remember the 60-30-10 rule!! I'm including a link for you. :)

Love the bedding! I would take that as my inspiration for the room and run with it! It's so fresh that I think it would drown in all that black, especially if the bed was black. It just wouldn't do it justice.

Here is a link that might be useful: 60-30-10 percent rule

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clipped on: 07.07.2008 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 07.07.2008 at 10:20 am

RE: Monochromatic Color schemes (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: lindybarts on 03.23.2008 at 02:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I had saved this photo from HGTV on my computer a long time ago. I think it was an article about monochromatic rooms but I've long since lost the verbage and only kept the photo. Really, there's a couple colors in here but it might still qualify....?

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clipped on: 06.30.2008 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 06.30.2008 at 01:10 am

RE: Coastal, breezy, plantation, West Indies? (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: sis3 on 03.09.2007 at 01:01 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Thank you for your kind words, lindybarts. The wall color is
BM 1033 Hillsborough Beige, though it doesn't look like beige to me, more like rich milk chocolate. I'm a bit embarrassed to answer your question about the sconces, but to tell the truth they were very inexpensive pewter colored ones from Lowes. I painted and lightly bronzed them (and also the towel rails and toilet roll holders for their third incarnation.) I will be painting our iron bed for the adjoining master bedroom too.
As I am in the confessional, I will admit that the rounded tile that edges the marble and tile in the two bathrooms above is actually wood that I painted to exactly match the tiles below! It took a little time to get the marbling exactly right but once I had figured that out it was an easy job. None of the edging 'tiles' are in contact with water and in any case they are totally sealed. No one has suspected that they are anything other than the real thing and many visitors, even when it is pointed out to them, simply refuse to believe that they are painted.
The vanity in that top picture and the larger one at the other side of the bathroom (not in the picture)were made by my DH from black walnut with bamboo inset doors (the bamboo was from a blind from Pier 1) He also made the frames for the mirrors and a vanity stool.
Phew! Glad I got all that off my chest!
I hope others will post photos of their own interpretation of this style - it would be so inspiring.

NOTES:

follow up with details
clipped on: 06.28.2008 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 06.28.2008 at 11:37 am

RE: Coastal, breezy, plantation, West Indies? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: sis3 on 03.07.2007 at 01:40 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I hope you don't mind if I join you guys? I think that the style you are describing fits my style pretty well. We are in the latter stages of a major remodel but here are two bathrooms that were finished before the remodel began. Our house has a tropical, coastal, breezy, plantation look. It's on the water in Gulf coast Florida so we felt the style would work (apart from loving it). I hope there are many more posts on this thread as I have to source furniture, fixtures, fittings, fabrics etc and decide on colors for a very open (breezy) house.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

vanity ideas for powder room
clipped on: 06.28.2008 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 06.28.2008 at 11:36 am

RE: painting shiny brass doorknobs, hinges, etc. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: moegaff on 01.20.2008 at 07:44 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have had good results with "Sophisticated Finishes"---I wanted a quick inexpensive update to my bathroom and posted a message here and someone suggested it! I transformed a shiny brass light fixture and wall hooks into and oil rubbed bronze look----I also painted a large wood frame around the wall mirror and wooden inset drawer handles. In the end it all matched perfectly (wasn't sure how it would be on the brass vs. the wood) The great thing is, a little goes a long way. I was able to do the whole bathroom and still have leftover and the bottle is pretty small. I picked up mine at "Michaels Crafts". There is a clear primer that you buy that goes on first---so you don't even need to rough up the brass. It held up great, but I'm not sure how it would be on a door knob that is being used all the time? I would give it a try though before you buy all new hardware. Good luck!

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clipped on: 06.28.2008 at 02:24 am    last updated on: 06.28.2008 at 02:24 am

RE: masculine style - post your pics (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: sweeby on 04.24.2008 at 03:48 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Our whole house has kind of a masculine bent - stone, wood, darker colors, though with a heavy dose of feminine accents. Here are a few pictures:

Great Room
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Kitchen (at Christmas Time)
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Dining Room (also at Christmas)
Dining Room

Hall Bath (Only 'sorta' masculine - Color is darker than shown)
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NOTES:

bottom pic - bathrom mirror/sconces
clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 11:16 am

Sneak peak @new kitchen- Can I get away with no backsplash?

posted by: reno_fan on 06.12.2008 at 04:42 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I had planned to do the ubiquitous tumbled marble, but I'm so smitten with the paint color showing, I'm thinking about skipping the backsplash. (This is the investment house, not our personal residence.)

Here's the before and under-construction quasi-after:

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NOTES:

The paint color is Benjamin Moore Twilight Gold #1069
clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 10:51 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 10:51 am

Here are easy centerpieces to make

posted by: brutuses on 06.17.2008 at 12:47 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Ideas for different centerpieces using just one container.

Here is a link that might be useful: link

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 10:44 am

directions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: msrose on 06.18.2008 at 07:37 am in Home Decorating Forum

I just found an old post that I saved. Unfortunately, I forgot to make a note of who wrote this.

Okay, here goes.
You will need:
- a mitre saw or a mitre box w/saw
- a small hand saw or coping saw (a hacksaw will also work)
- Elmer's wood glue
- paint (I used acrylic latex, craft paint and spray lacquer for a gloss finish)
- small nails
- hammer
- drill
- four corner clamps (Home Depot)
- a 1/2" wood chisel (Home Depot)
- four metal mirror clips (Home Depot)
- clear silicone caulk or silicone aquarium sealer
First, buy a set of metal mirror clips. You'll find these in Home Depot in the "Picture Framing" section. They come two to a package. I used 3/8" clips. The size of the clips is determined by the thickness of your mirror glass. Use the smallest you can get that will hold your mirror to the wall. This is the secret to "working around" the plastic clips, LOL.
Remove the plastic clips and replace them with the metal clips. No, wait -- actually, put the metal clips on FIRST and THEN remove the plastic clips, so the mirror doesn't fall off the wall, LOL.
Depending on the size of your mirror, you might want to use mollies with the clips. (My mirrors are resting on backsplashes, so I wasn't too worried about them falling.) If you use mollies, make sure you get the kind that are flush to the wall.
You're using metal clips because they have a much lower profile. This will be important later.
Two clips on the top and two on the bottom should suffice.
Next, measure the mirror and buy your trim. Give yourself about a foot extra on each side, because you'll have to cut it down for the mitered corners.
Make sure the trim you buy is not warped. You can do this by laying the pieces on the floor at the store. The pieces should lie flat on the floor.
NOTE: You are going to paint and assemble the frame BEFORE you put it up.
Paint the trim BEFORE you cut it. When painting long trim pieces, make sure you put a base coat on BOTH SIDES, front and back, even though you are only going to see one side. If you only paint one side, the wood will warp. (I found THAT out the hard way, LOL.) You can do this if you lay the trim on a couple of paint cans as you paint.
When you have the paint and finish the way you want it, carefully measure your mirror. (If you're new at this sort of thing, you might want to make a mockup of cardboard or craftpaper first, to get the measurements exact.) Remember, you want the edge of the glass to fall about halfway under the frame.
Measure and mark the wood, and carefully cut your four pieces, mitering the corners at 45 degrees.
Sand the cut edges till they're smooth. Don't worry about little chips in your paint, you'll touch these up later.
Before you glue the corners, drill small nail holes in the side corners of the two side pieces only. Drill all the way through. (You will put little nails here after the frame is assembled, for added strength and to prevent twisting.)
Lay the four pieces on a flat surface. (I use the floor) Put the corner clamps at each corner, adjusting them until you're satisfied with all four corners.
Now release the corners, one at a time, applying glue to the edges that will join, and return the corners to the clamp, tightening each corner, one at a time, wiping away excess glue as you go.
Leave the frame to dry over night.
In the morning, remove the corner clamps carefully.
Put four small nails into your four nailholes. Countersink the heads, and if they are going to show, fill them.
With fine sandpaper or steel wool, smooth off any flaws. Using an artist's brush, touch up any part of the corners that need to be touched up. Let this dry.
Try your frame onto the mirror. You will see that the frame still doesn't lie quite flat to the mirror because of the clips. Using a pencil, mark the back of the frame where the clips interfere with the frame.
Using a small handsaw and the wood chisel, chip away just enough wood from the back of the frame so that the frame will lie flat to the mirror. This is easier than it sounds... it's a very small bit of wood and you don't have to be too delicate about it because it's on the back of the frame and no one will ever see it.
When you've chipped out your four small bits of wood, the frame should now lie flat to the glass!
Clean the mirror and the back of the frame very well. Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the back of the frame -- not too close to the inner edge, because you don't want the silicone to show in the mirror -- and press the frame to the glass.
Stand there and hold the frame to the mirror for twelve hours.
Okay, not really. This last bit is kind of hard to describe... I contrived several lengths of scrap wood and gallon paint cans as braces to hold the frame pressed to the wall until it cured.
I wish I had pictures of the process, sorry.
I hope I haven't scared anyone off. Let me know if I've been too obscure and I'll try and help.
Good luck and let me know how you do!
And when you apply the glue (or in my case, the silicone adhesive) you apply it along the center of the frame, not at the edges. And don't use too much glue, or it will smoosh to the edges, and if it does, you'll be able to see it.

Laurie

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clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 10:40 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 10:41 am

RE: Add trim to make flat interior doors interesting? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bella_on on 06.18.2008 at 09:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

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clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 10:30 am