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RE: pruning asian persimmons (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: WildfireMike on 03.02.2012 at 02:01 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I'll add that the leader I leave each season is the weaker of the bunch you will have to chose from. Again helps stop the vertical growth. I of course prune back the leader I do leave as above.

Mike

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clipped on: 05.27.2012 at 12:39 am    last updated on: 05.27.2012 at 12:39 am

RE: pruning asian persimmons (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: scottfsmith on 03.01.2012 at 09:06 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Prune it after severe cold possibilities are over, you don't want too much dieback and your zone is not far from the coldest they take. I haven't pruned my persimmons yet but its about time to start on them. I am about done the apples, plums, and pears and peaches and grapes and persimmons are up next.

Mike's advice on pruning sounds good to me. I have used vase but find central leader is easier on persimmons, it calms down their desire for vertical growth. Having several leaders like in a vase seems to put them in competition with one another. If the vase has only a few vase-branches it should be OK, my problem was when I had too many. I also stub the upper branches like Mike does, maybe leaving a few more buds than he does.

Scott

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clipped on: 05.27.2012 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 05.27.2012 at 12:38 am

RE: pruning asian persimmons (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: WildfireMike on 03.01.2012 at 03:55 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

If grown for fruit keep short and cut back hard to the first few buds on last years growth. By that I mean leave just a few buds from last year. You'll get bigger and better fruit and easy of picking. Also netting is easier if birds are a pest.
If grown as an ornamental as well as fruit central leader like an apple pruned to size you find pleasing.
As with all fruit trees remove dead, crossing (rubbing) branches and those growing towards the trunk.
Japanese persimmons are very forgiving.
Hope that helps.
Mike

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clipped on: 05.27.2012 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 05.27.2012 at 12:38 am

RE: Keeping my fushias through winter (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: seramas on 10.25.2008 at 08:59 pm in Fuchsia Forum

I always kept them in the cool basement in front of a large window on the west side of the house. The basement isn't heated and gets down to 38F. The bush types are in 19" pots and are trimmed to within 6" of the dirt. They are kept moist-never allowed to dry out. The standards are trimmed back to 4" of the main trunk and also kept the same way the bush one are.

I've 3-4' standards that are 36 years old. The main stems are about 9" around. The biggest problem with the standards is keeping them out of the wind. Even as big as the main stems are they still are very brittle.

It is important to keep them feed regularly with a high nitrogen fertilizer and changing 1/3 of the soil each year-I use worm castings and mix in a couple cups of bone-meal, 1/2 cup of blood-meal and 1/2 cup of Epsom's salt.

Don't be afraid of cutting them back in the spring when you put them out again. I usually strip all the winter growth off to where they were cut back to in the fall so all the new growth is strong and healthy from the increased light they get outside and you won't have to deal with easing them in and out as so not to sunburn them. I always pinch back 2 times early in the growing season. This gives you a very full bush or tree.

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clipped on: 04.24.2010 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2010 at 11:16 pm

RE: Overwintering crape myrtle? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: katrina1 on 07.20.2007 at 05:50 pm in Shrubs Forum

Right now, drill more drainage holes in the bottoms of pots that are two sizes larger than the pots your Crape myrtles were sold in. Remove the Cms from their pots and check the rootball, if the roots have become rootbound cut them straight down from top to bottom using four slices evenly spaced around the rootball. Then transplant them into the larger pots. Be sure to mix some good quality non-burn, slow release fertilzer like Osmokote into the backfill potting soil, unless your are using potting soil that already contains fertilizer.

Next dig planting holes and drop the newly transplanted CMs into the ground in an area with full sun exposure. Maybe on the south side of your house with fairly good sun from dawn to dusk; if there is no exposure like that at your place, sink the pots in either the northwestern or northeastern corners of your lot. Do not dead head for reblooming this year, so that the trunks can thicken up and harden off in a manner which will make them better able to handle their dormant period this coming winter.

Daily watch the folliage. At the first sign of leaf wilt, begin watering them several times each day untill the leaves look healthy again. Otherwise, only water when the potting soil in the pots seem dry about an inch down.

If later in the year, when your Fall temps break; if the predicted freeze is expected to be a light freeze. water them well again just prior to the freeze hitting. Repeat this procedure with them until the forecasters begin predicting hard freezes that could dip below 27 degrees.

If by this time the Cm has experienced some light freezes it should be just about fully dormant. Even if it does not seem that far dormant, dig up the pots and put them in your garage. During days that are above freezing move them just outside again. But make sure to put them back into the garage over the periods of times when temps are expected to drop below freezing.

Toward the end of winter when the temps begin to play around the 30 to 50 degree temp ranges again begin to harden them off for their outside move. Keep moving them back into the garage, though, whenever the temps are forecast to drop into the lower 30s and could easily drop to freezing even for short periods. But make sure to bring them out for ever increasing daytime periods which promise to stay above freezing.

Once the last threat of a possible late freeze period ends; that could be as late as the near the end of April or later in your area, plant your Cm in the soil where you want them to grow. That must be an area that gets either full sun or full day dappled sun.

Once they are fully leaf out again and have completely broken dormancy, prune away of last winter's dead branches or seed pods which is still on the shrubs. To do that cut each dead part either all the way back to the nearest trunk it attaches to or back to the first set of three leaves on the branch.

For the first three years they are planted in the soil, let them bloom naturally whenever they want and do not do dead heading to try to force the CM to rebloom again more quickly. Only in the summer after their third year should it be safe to begin deadheading spent blooms before the seeds can fully develop. On each branch which has spent blooms simply prune back to the first set of three leaves. You can do this all summer long to encourage your Cms to bloom more often. Just be sure you stop doing that about 6 weeks prior to your first expected or predicted drop in temp down to freezing.

Next winter just before the first predicted light freeze water them very well just prior to the temps dropping. On the other hand just prior to the first time the temps are predicted to drop down to a hard freeze; water the Cms well, and cover their rootballs with a layer of 6 inches of shreaded cedar bark mulch.

In the following spring be sure to pull that mulch back at least 4 to 6 inches away from each cMs trunks. Following that, as soon as the temps remain above freezing and the CM has fully leafed out, select the strongest,thickest, and straight up growing trunks to become the number of trunk legs that you desire each of your CMs to have. Prune all the other thinner and weaker growing trunks out. Follow that by pruning away any of the side branches on any of your desired to remain trunks. Prune enough of the leaves and side-branches off to clean the trunks up the the height you desire for your Cms. After that go through the remaining canopy of your Cms. With each branch cut back to the first set of three leaves any dead wood, dried seed heads which remain from the previous year.

Never do a Crape myrtle "Murder" pruning on your CMs. If you do not know what that means, simply do a google search for explanations of that outdated type of pruning.
Once your Cms grow to the top heights you desire of 8 to 10 feet, simply during the above describe prune times, prune them in a manner which takes each branch, pruned one at a time, back to the lowest set of three leaves that are about a foot or two lower than what your want the over height for the shrub to grow in the summer. Every year thereafter follow that same kind of pruning practice.

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clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 10:52 pm

RE: how big do Fuyu persimmon trees get? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: greenwitch on 01.17.2008 at 04:45 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

They get about 12 - 15 feet if you let them. I keep mine only as tall as I can reach and I have trained the lower branches horizontally (I planted 4 within 2' of each other and keep the inside branches either pruned or trained away from the center "light well." They are more like persimmon bushes than trees).
If you summer prune them to keep them shorter it may be a factor in bringing them to fruit sooner. I read it takes up to 5 years for persimmons to start fruiting but mine fruited the 2nd year and I got ~100 fruits by the 3rd year. Jiro is what is sold as Fuyu in this country.

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clipped on: 09.21.2008 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2008 at 09:29 pm

RE: Transplanting advice needed (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ken_adrian on 08.15.2007 at 08:58 am in Conifers Forum

oh boy ....

where are you exactly ..... it might matter ...

timing is everything in moving stock .. presuming you don't have giant trucks to dig BIG root balls .. in my zone5 MICH. .. proper transplant time starts when the tree leaves start turning ... as most trees are going dormant at that time .. including conifers ... so that is just about the month of October in my zone 5 .. and then we stop when there is at least 6 to 8 weeks before the soil freezes ... during which time they must be watered and not left to dry out .... you can fudge it a week or two either way ... but your odds of success start falling fast .. august is never a good time to do this.. especially on drought stricken stock ....

1) you have nice sandy loam .. do NOT waste your money on amending it ... period ... trees grow in cracks of rock on the side of mountains.. they don't need all the foo foo stuff you MIGHT think will help ... save the money to replace the trees.. if you screw it all up ... lol

2) NEVER FERTILIZE IN FALL IN ZONE 5 .... these trees need to go dormant .. not get all wound up on soil amendments ... they need to go to sleep and and grow some roots.... at least get the roots pumping .. before the soil freezes ... and forget about fertilizing ever ... if you really have a LOAM based soil ... all the tree ever needs is already there ... in fact. i have pure sand.. and i never fertilize ... think of it this way .. trees cover a vast percentage of the earth ... and 99.9% never get fertilizer .. and set world records.. they just don't need it .. IMHO ....

3) yes, plant them at the same height ... though i use a moat around my transplants due to the sand.. so i can lay down a few gallons of water at a time to soak the root ball ... otherwise water would just run off, leaving the tree dry ... which leads me to watering ... they will need water all this fall .. and all next year .. to get 'established ... it might be a waste of time and back breaking efforts to try to move them and never water them ... if you need the exercise.. and are the type to give it a go .. regardless .... then go for it.. but don't be surprised at losses ... frankly .. for under 200 bucks.. you can replace these trees.. and even less if you buy half size .... and it might not be worth the effort if you can not water them ...

4) research how to ball and burlap a tree ... get the burlap .. and go for it ... this size tree would need a root ball between 1 and 2 feet across ... there are a lot of tricks to doing it ... including starting to dig about twice the distance out.. and all formation of the root ball involves turning the shovel away from the trunk of the tree and slicing away from the trunk.. to 'try' to make a ball .. google the process to see if you can find tutorials on such ... and sharpen your shovel .. if really helps slicing through the soil and through roots ...

finally .. if they are already droughted.. you need to spend a week or so .. watering them to get them 'ready' for transplant.. you cant dig a stressed tree and expect success ... drag out the hose .... and let water trickle on them .. until you are sure it is fully hydrated to the depth of the root ball you will be digging.. it will help the tree.. and it will help create the root ball you need to make .. plus make it 3 times heavier for the move.. lol ..

seriously ... if you have a thousand dollar project going here.. and life has other important things for you to do ... buying some potted stock to replace, as a function of the project cost .. will be a lot easier than 2 or 3 days of back breaking labor followed by failure ..

personally, i would do it for named, rare cultivars .. but for plain old green trees .. it would just be easier to apply the saw at ground level and be done with it all in an hour .. two if you count the burning .. lol ... and be done with it ... BB'ing stock is thankless work, and full of problems ... been there.. done that ..

GOOD LUCK

ken

PS: you are responsible for all water next year.. insuring that they never dry out for very long.. while they re-establish the root capacity needed ... a large mulch ring.. and PROPER watering during the heat of next summer is IMPERATIVE .... and if it cant be done.. i just dont know if its worth the effort to save these guys ...

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 11:15 pm

RE: lace bugs what to do (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kimmsr on 07.04.2008 at 08:39 am in Integrated Pest Management Forum

Insecticidal Soaps can be broad spectrum pesticides and can kill whatever it contacts. The advantage is that IS is pretty short term and when dry has no residual affect. Most likely what you saw with the ant "attacking" the Lady Beetle was a dispute over whose food that was rather than an ant "protecting" the lace bug.
Dish soaps are detergents, not soaps in the sense that they are made from petroleum products not by reacting fats with a caustic substance as true soaps are. Detergents can harm plants if not washed off, while soaps need not be, at least in my experience. To make Insecticidal Soap mix 1 teaspoon of a real soap in 1 quart of water and spray. Nothing more needs to be added.

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clipped on: 07.06.2008 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2008 at 07:48 pm

RE: Different care for the ivy geraniums? Less success? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sheeplady_WI on 04.07.2005 at 08:57 am in Geranium Forum

Hi I have an ivy geranium that is 3 years old now, every winter it comes inside, sits in a coolish not too bright, not too dim corner. I water sparingly, then about Feb. I increase the light, water and start slowly feeding. It DOES look pretty sad by Feb. Mine had only a couple of leaves and they didn't look very promising at all. Oh, and I cut it back by 3/4 when I bring it in. Sometimes I root the cuttings, sometimes not. This is the first year that I have grow lights for early spring. At first it does seem to be slow growing, but in the last week or so mine is going gangbusters. I feed them with a balanced dilute liquid plant food AND use a pinch of osmocote in each pot.

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clipped on: 07.06.2008 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2008 at 06:26 pm

RE: Overwintering ivy geranium (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Jane__NY on 09.04.2005 at 12:47 am in Geranium Forum

They can take alot of cold. I'm no expert but I've managed to carry them over keeping them in a unheated sun room. I stuck the pots in old coolers filled with stryo peanuts and if the temps went into the teens I'd cover them with a blanket. They looked awful in Spring, but recovered and were huge. It's work, but sometimes it's worth it.
Jane

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clipped on: 07.06.2008 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2008 at 06:21 pm

RE: Pruning Lavender (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Vera_EWASH on 06.20.2005 at 05:52 pm in Herbs Forum

Foofna...
If it's that woody with a dead center I would take cuttings to root and have new plants. Take cuttings about 4" long from non-flowering stems, take off lower leaves and bury stem in straight perlite or good draining mix. Use containers that are at no more than 4" and keep out of direct sunlight (like a shadier area outside or inside in a bright spot. Should root within 3-4 weeks. Grow on and trasplant outdoors after extreme heat has past yet give enough time for roots to anchor before first hard frost.

Vera

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clipped on: 06.01.2008 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2008 at 10:42 pm

RE: Can we talk about veggies that need less sun? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hines on 03.24.2008 at 11:11 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Nothing wrong with the info you have been given but for your information and for placemnt of the veges on the w side of the house here is a list of the common veges that tolerate light shade.

beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, onions, peas, potatoes,radishes, spinach, with spinach being by far the most tolerant of shade.

Common veges that require full sun include

beans, corn, cukes, eggplant, peppers, squash (winter and summer) melons, and tomatoes.

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clipped on: 05.31.2008 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2008 at 10:42 pm

RE: Bunching Onions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bmoser on 03.14.2007 at 11:37 am in Allium Forum

In our zone you are better to start from seeds inside about 10-12 weeks before you intend to transplant. Every 3-4 weeks after they germinate give them a haircut to 2" so they will grow more stocky with larger diameter stems for transplanting. For bunching onions I omit the plastic mulch since you usually have most of them harvested within 8-10 weeks after transplanting. I typically plant at 4" intervals as shown on extreme right row of picture.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 11:21 pm

RE: Saving Pepper Seeds and reducing cross pollination (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: opqdan on 06.09.2006 at 04:26 pm in Hot Pepper Forum

Since pepper flowers are capable of pollinating themselves, chaances are they they get pollinated soon after they open, before a different cultivar can cross with them. It is already fairly rare.

To guarantee that crosses do not occur, you can bag the blossom with any number of materials. I have heard of people making little bags out of toole (a type of fine netlike fabric). You could probably also use some sort of women's nylons. Don't use a plastic bag though, as it may overheat and it traps moisture.

As soon as the flower shows signs of a pepper, you can remove the bag, just mark the pepper to ensure you remember which one it is.

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clipped on: 05.07.2008 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2008 at 10:13 pm

RE: Is Leaf Litter Good or Bad? I'm Confused . . . (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jbann23 on 06.17.2007 at 11:51 am in Soil Forum

Good questions. Leaf litter can generate a few funguses and I'm sure bacteria. I don't think they're all bad. Leaf litter makes great compost though and the price is right. Grass clippings when dry are a bit unsightly if you're after a nice green lawn setting. Leaving them there eventually breaks down and feeds the living grass - right price again. Mulch should be turned under in the fall so it'll be broken down by spring. If turned under in the spring it can tie up nitrogen for a while. That's why it's suggested you rake it up in the spring, so's you can get at the soil for planting, etc. Fresh mulch looks better too and the old can be composted. Hmmm, everything recycled - good deal. Hope this clears things up a bit. Best Regards.

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clipped on: 04.13.2008 at 11:23 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2008 at 11:23 pm

RE: Thuja (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mrgpag on 09.06.2006 at 08:14 am in Conifers Forum

Smaragd holds it's bright green color all winter long whereas Degroots Spire becomes a dull bronzy color in winter. Also on Degroots, look for plants that are single stemmed - so many I see in our area are multi-stemmed at a young age and I feel this takes away from their appeal - a tall slender single stemmed shape. I have several of both and like them for the qualities I mentioned. Bagworms can be a problem though.

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clipped on: 11.04.2007 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2007 at 07:53 pm

RE: Dumb Question about Overwintering (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jeannie7 on 12.15.2006 at 03:01 pm in Geranium Forum

River, it is quite simple IF you can provide your pel a cool, dry, dark plasce to store them.
Cool....in the range of 35 to 50 F....not so warm that the plant would initiate any new growth....it wouldn't last long if it did.
Dark....light again, initiates growth...it too wouldn't amount to anything.
Dry....because you want your plant to not be subject to any hint of mildew or rot....which moisture can begin.

It can be stored either by hanging your plant upside down...or in its pot and turned to its side.

About mid February...and into March, you bring out your geranium...it should be like a prune...dry...practically falling apart.

Take to a well-papered table to catch the debris...
cut the plant back how you choose....but generally about 4" to 6"...remove all old leaves, any weak or damaged stems.
Look at the roots, tear them apart. Remove all old soil.

Into a pot (clay is nice) that you have placed some shards of ??? to effectively keep the roots up above the drainage holes. Fresh potting soil, place your plant in and firm it up.

Take to the sunniest window you have....but north will not do.
Water to drainage.....and that's the last watering you do until new leaves form. That should be within 2 weeks.
Then water as necessary but always, water to drainage and dump the excess.

Don't fertilize until new leaves form and then at 1/4 rate 20/20/20....and turn your plant about every day to ensure all parts receive equal sun.

It can depend on just how good your sun is whether you get buds to appear before the time you set them out..but don't despair, new flowering will come...in time.

Increase fertilizer as the plant warrants...about every 2nd watering.
When bloom appears switch over to 15/30/15...(Miracle Gro)

That's it.....and if you use this formula year after year, there is no reason your plant cant come back each and every year thereafter.

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clipped on: 10.25.2007 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 10.25.2007 at 12:14 am

RE: Powdery Mildew -- an answer for after-the-fact! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kimmsr on 08.16.2007 at 08:06 am in Garden Clinic Forum

Very often a gardener will yank out plants that are bothered by Powdery Mildew when the cure is as simple as spraying them with either a mixture of 1 teaspoon of baking soda in 1 quart of water, or a 50/50 mixture of fat free milk and water, about every 5 to 7 days. As a general rule PM is more of a cosmetic problem than a harm to the plant, although if it progresses far enough it can cause witling of the affected leaves.

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clipped on: 10.22.2007 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2007 at 08:44 pm

RE: juniper growth rate (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: treeguy123 on 01.16.2007 at 12:16 pm in Conifers Forum

It grows 15 to 20 feet tall and 4 to 7 feet wide into a cone or column shape. It grows around 1 to 2 feet a year, in very good conditions it could likely grow 1.5 to 2.5 feet a year. They can be grown in acidic or alkaline soils. And they like full sun.

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clipped on: 10.16.2007 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 10.16.2007 at 11:36 am

RE: Can I spray Miracle Grow weekly on my Blue Spruce??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ken_adrian on 09.14.2006 at 09:03 am in Conifers Forum

trees/conifers need nothing after transplant... other than a period of watering to aid establishment ... mulch will reduce evaporation to help in PROPER watering ..

the ONLY exception is if you are in the tree industry .. and repeatedly cycle plants through the same soil .. and need to have soil test and amendments to insure your investment ...

remove all competing weeds. ... and add some mulch to keep the weeds out.. and they will be just peachy ...

start with a soil test IF you suspect something is lacking in your soil ....

as the tree matures ... it doesn't even need the mulch .... EXCEPT to keep you away from it with the lawnmower and the weedwhip ....

try a walk in a forest .... and study how nature takes care of itself .... i suggest you are overthinking it all ... forests are self-mulching ...

good luck to you, and your trees/conifers ...

ken

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clipped on: 11.10.2006 at 08:33 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2006 at 08:33 pm