Clippings by somewherre

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

Painting wood floor

posted by: redbirds on 12.04.2006 at 04:54 pm in Old House Forum

We're underway on a big kitchen gutting and remodel. Now that the sandwich of 3 layers of old flooring and a subfloor for each have been scraped off, we're left with hardwood underneath. It is not in horrible shape, but I don't think sanding and refinishing is the best route to take.

We painted the floor in another room in the house where we also removed a thick layer of old flooring. We were happy with the look, but it isn't standing up to walking traffic all that well. We used porch paint, but did not use any poly or other sealer on top.

Does anyone have any good advice about getting a good painted finish on a floor that will stand up to a lot of foot traffic? The kitchen certainly gets it!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.20.2007 at 04:23 am    last updated on: 01.20.2007 at 04:23 am

RE: stud finders, recomendations (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: joefixit2 on 10.27.2006 at 10:34 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

Garret Wade sells a mechanical studfinder that works good on drywall. It has a needle that pushes into the wall to locate the stud with barely visible marks on the wall. But it won't work on plaster. For plaster just buy packets of small jobber bits and drill till you hit a stud, then the small holes are not too hard to fill.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 05:50 pm

Need tips on pulling wires through NMC

posted by: kudzu9 on 10.29.2006 at 09:01 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I have a 50' run of 3/4" NMC with several 45 and 90 degree turns and I want to pull 3 #12 wires through. This should be easy, but it was a little hard to get the fishing tape through a couple of the bends, although I managed. Any tips for the actual wire pulling? Is it better to do all three wires at the same time, or one at a time? And how important is it to use lubricant? Any advice on easing this task would be appreciated.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 04:45 am    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 04:46 am

NEC 314.3 Exception - Raceway in Plastic Box

posted by: tombijak on 11.13.2006 at 08:09 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

The NEC allows for metallic raceways to enter a non-metallic box provided there is proper bonding provided in the field or proper bonding integral to the box. My question: what is proper bonding? Is simply tying the ground wires together via crimp or wirenut considered a proper field-applied bond? Or is there something else?

Thanks, Tom

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:46 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:47 am

RE: What tool for tracing? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: pinocchio on 09.10.2006 at 12:16 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

UNK! Thanks for the reply. Ive gotten so busy, I dont even know who lurks here anymore. I keep my spot warm on the Plumbing Forum nowadays. More room for potty jokes there.

I bought a G-B tracer at Lowes $35 but when I finally tried to use it, I realized it was way too puny, and got a refund. The electrical guy there, used to be a telephone guy, so we talked about the Ideal unit ($90) and he had me sold on it. But I see it, too is only for data line. Will shutdown at high voltage.

While waiting for a reply, I found a unit called the Tempo 508S. It sells for about $250, online, and that is my upper limit, because, Im not an electrician. But as a handyman, when I do repairs, it would really help to know the wire paths in old work situations. And it ought to find plumbing and heating, too.

Tempo was Progressive; and bought by Greenlee, which seems to be Textron now. So, I think this is serious equipment. But, I think I have to have it. Now, I just wonder if it will perform well enough. I cant get the Big Box Store 100% Satisfaction Guarantee on this item.

Tempo describes this item :
" For technicians who occasionally need to locate buried or in-wall wiring but don't require all the bells and whistles of a high priced cable locator."

Since Ive never used one, Id like to be sure I understand. Seems like a person can establish the tone, and not only find the wire paths, but find an open, since the signal should stop or change character at that point.

Pinoke

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:45 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:45 am

Replacing receptacles

posted by: yenyeskay on 11.20.2006 at 03:27 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I am replacing all my receptacles with new designer style ones. Some of the existing receptacles are the old, two prong type with no ground wire.

What is the code approved way to install a receptacle with a ground to an old two wire receptacle with no ground. If there is no approved way to do this, then how do you prevent a grounded plug from being used here. Is there some way you can close the hole for ground ?

Thx

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:27 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:27 am

RE: Options for rewireing an older house (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: naturelle on 11.30.2006 at 02:38 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

My house is the same as yours in age and construction. I just replaced the old fuse box with a breaker panel. It was an intimidating prospect at first, but it's done. With that major step out of the way, I am changing out the old wiring, circuit by circuit.

I am doing all the work myself, having picking up a good book on the subject ("Electrical Wiring Simplified" (? title) is one I see mentioned often here, and the one I have is "Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Home Wiring, Revised to Comply with New Building Code (Canada)", and taking time to make sure I understood all aspects. I also picked up the basic testing devices, so I can double check to make sure there is no energy in the work I'm handling. As davidr says, make sure you work carefully and orderly. I tend to think and test and think again before touching anything, so the work takes a bit longer, but I don't get into any trouble that way. I also work with the main breaker off when working in the panel.

There will likely be a degree of opening access into plaster walls to rewire, but it's not a major thing. There are tricks you can do to minimize this (the Black and Decker book shows good illustrations for all aspects of electrical work, including this). It makes a difference if you have a single storey or two storey house, as with a single storey you can run wire from the basement to the first floor. It's more difficult to run wire to the second floor. I'm running a single feeder to a subpanel on the second floor, from which I'll feed circuits for the second floor via the attic. I'm going to reroute and create new circuits (as davidr says the old circuits are usually too congested or are mixed, and also they may not meet current code), so will abandon many of the old circuits with the outdated wires, so will not have to break out as much of the walls.

It's worthwhile buying a good book, you'll learn a lot, and it will pay off in no time for even common household jobs, like changing switches, low voltage outdoor lighting, and so on. You can ask specific questions here. If you have doubts, then you can get professionals to do the work. At least you will know what's involved.

Ted

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:13 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:13 am

RE: Best Book (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: normel on 12.03.2006 at 09:05 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

"Your Old Wiring" by David Shapiro. Excellent book on wiring in older houses.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:06 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:06 am

RE: wiring circuits from beneath the wall instead of in the wall (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: electrifyingmojo on 12.05.2006 at 06:14 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

Thanks. I have another question. Since my basement is unfinished, I wanted to route all wiring from beneath instead of within the walls. Tell me if this is allowed by NEC. I want to first predrill holes from the basement into the first floor wall cavity and fish the wire from the basement into the cavity and into the receptacle box. I wanted to run a wire from that receptacle back into the basement and repeat the process until I complete the circuit for that particular room. All connections will be made in each receptacle box the way they normally are with the exception that the wiring is routed from underneath instead of thorugh the walls. (It therefore will be: under the wall, into the cavity, connect to left side of receptacle, wire goes down right side of receptacle fished back to basement and on to next recpetacle until circuit is completed). Thanks.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 04:03 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 04:03 am

RE: Quick bathroom wiring question... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: normel on 12.16.2006 at 09:17 am in Electrical Wiring Forum

The bath lighting can be fed from the same circuit as the bath receptacle as long as it is on a dedicated circuit for that bathroom.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 03:39 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 03:39 am

RE: AFIC installation (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: petey_racer on 01.08.2007 at 12:23 am in Electrical Wiring Forum

IMO your last consideration is the best route. I am in the group who does not trust or care for AFCIs. Luckily my area does not require them.

The thing to remember is extension cords are one of the worst things you can have in your house. I really hate it when the news reports a fire and it seems like the stock statement is that the fire was caused by faulty electric. This is a rare thing IMO. FAR more often it is not the fault of the house wiring itself, but extension cords and/or electric space heaters.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 02:43 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 02:44 am

running unfinished basement wires

posted by: bleevan on 09.06.2006 at 03:53 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

In my unfinished basement can I staple electrical wires to underside of floor joists or do I need to drill through them?

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 02:36 am    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 02:36 am

RE: flat roof pitfalls? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brickeyee on 07.20.2005 at 10:04 pm in Home Repair Forum

The most reliable flat roof is EPDM membrane. When installed correctly the roof should have a life of at leat 30 years.
For smaller areas factory seamed can be used, for larger areas field seamed is required.
EPDM is very common in commercial roofing (stores, shopping centers) and it can be hard to find an installer for a small home job, but they are usually out there.
Firestone is one of the big material manufacturers, but they are mainly interested in commercial applications. The basic methods transfer directly however.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 06:44 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 06:44 pm

circuit problem

posted by: taylor_2006 on 03.04.2006 at 06:56 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

Twice in the last month I have had the following problem: I have turned on an appliance (hairdryer and vacuum cleaner) and the entire circuit has stopped working. The breaker does not trip (it does seem to be a little loose) and it will somehow reset itself but not for many hours. Can anyone help?

Thanks

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 06:13 pm

RE: OK, one more question......please answer Petey Racer. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: itsunclebill on 03.14.2006 at 07:56 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I've had about a 30% average of the Siemens AFCIs I put in hum or buzz, some so loud they are a distraction. They ALL go back to the distributer for replacements. IMHO a correctly functioning AFCI does not hum or buzz.

Cutler Hammer makes a classified AFCI approved for use in Siemens panels and I use them almost elculsively because they have been trouble free to this point. If you wind up replacing these AFCIs you might do well to consider this option.

UNK

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 05:56 pm

wiring a new fixture to old wiring

posted by: marc_2006 on 03.15.2006 at 02:44 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

I have a new bathroom lt/ht/fan fixture for my bathroom. Coming from it are: a red,black,blue,green,white,and red/white striped wires.
Attached to the old fixture ,were a wire direct from the breaker box,with just a white and black wire; and a wire from the switch,with just a black and white wire.
How do I wire up this fixture ,to this set up...help.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 05:46 pm

RE: Wiring baseboard heater to wiremold (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: joefixit2 on 03.19.2006 at 10:56 am in Electrical Wiring Forum

there is a fitting which slides into the end of the wiremold and has 1/2 inch threads on the other end made to enter a 1/2" KO which you can punch into the side of the heater. It's called a wiremold to emt adapter.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 05:44 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 05:44 pm

RE: Romex in conduit (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: Tom_O on 07.31.2005 at 08:43 am in Electrical Wiring Forum

This issue of cable in conduit seems to rear its ugly head every once in awhile. The 2005 NEC has taken steps to make it clear that if a cable in a conduit is not specifically prohibited, then it is allowed. For those of you with a copy of the 2005 edition,check out a raceway article that ends with .22, such as 358.22. There is nothing in the article on non-metallic cable that prohibits its installation in conduit.

Keep in mind that if your work is subject to inspection that you should check to see if there are any local amendments that are more restrictive. Also, some inspectors can be very strict and if you strip the jacket off, you'll end up re-doing the work. There are also issues about the mechanical connection of the cable to a box or breaker panel that are rarely enforced, but could cause you grief if you end up with a tough inspector.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2007 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 01.15.2007 at 10:08 am