Clippings by somanychoices

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Willow Decor's Kitchen Posted!! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: willowdecor on 01.21.2009 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are the details:
The wall color is Fieldstone (I think its BM #1558)Cabinet, ceiling and trim color is BM White Dove.
Bin pulls are RH, Ice box latches are Cliffside, knobs were here when I moved in.
The Clemson pendants are great - and if you search here someone will surely give you a RH coupon code.
Subway tiles are Bianca from Horus Art, Backsplash box out is Ann Sacks Herringbone Calcutta-white sanded grout.
Soapstone is Santa Rita Venata from M. Tex. in NJ
Beadboard is real wood tongue and groove, not pressed.
Sink is Houzer, Faucets are KWC.
Stove is Wolf, DW is Miele, Fridge is SubZero.
Wood is white oak with special dark walnut stain.
I think that covers it all! Hope that helps! :)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 07:52 am    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 07:52 am

RE: subway tile pattern (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 12.21.2008 at 07:54 am in Kitchens Forum

oh, thank you!

the tile was in stock so it was just about a week to come from their warehouse to the tile store where I picked it up. I had the tiles butted right up to each other so the grout lines are as small as can be, maybe 1/8". I think I used TEC Birch for the grout... was going for a bit of a cream/gray combo to pull in the cream steaks in the counters/tile and gray in the stainless appliances. It is a fairly glossy tile with a crackle finish. I will post some closer up pics below:

Photobucket
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 04:46 pm

RE: subway tile pattern (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 12.19.2008 at 10:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

thank you! it is by walker zanger. color is bone china and it is in their Gramercy Park line.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 04:45 pm

RE: subway tile pattern (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 12.18.2008 at 05:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I did 2x6 subway with herringbone behind the stove (which included a 1/2" x 6" stick liner). here is a pic:

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 04:44 pm

RE: Finished Butler's Pantry!!!! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: willowdecor on 01.12.2009 at 05:10 am in Kitchens Forum

Marthavila - There are no lights in the cabinets. I have overhead lights on dimmers that are positioned to shine into the cabinets. It seems to illuminate them fine.

Chaimama- The kitchen cabinets are BM Dove White, Santa Rita Venata soapstone, white crackle subway tile with a Calcutta Marble herringbone pattern behind the stove. The walls are painted 1559 BM, which is one shade darker than the BM 1558 Fieldstone, that the pantry cabinets are painted. It ties together very nicely. All the hardware is brushed nickel. Bin pulls and long pulls from RH, and latches from Cliffside Industries. Small knobs were on the original cabinets, I do not know the source. Will post the kitchen in about a week.

Thanks to everyone for their kind comments. It was a long road...

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 08:22 am    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 08:22 am

RE: Color for kitchen walls when there's not much wall? Blue -gr (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: victoriajane on 01.13.2009 at 07:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm doing gray in my kitchen as well. It is BM's stonington gray. This is a true medium-gray, not gray-blue or gray-green. I looked at every gray in the store and this was the only one that didn't do funny things to the off-white of my cabinets, so try and take a cabinet sample with you when you go paint shopping. It's just amazing how a color changes depending on what it is next to. But if you are looking for a more blue-gray, I liked feather gray and bunny gray.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.14.2009 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2009 at 04:13 pm

RE: Best paint for Master bath with carerra marble. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: stephanie93 on 01.05.2009 at 06:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

We are planning to use BM grey wisp. It is the same as Restoration Hardware's Silver Sage. Sometimes looks grey, sometimes, blue, sometimes green. Depends on the lighting.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 04:08 pm

Best paint for Master bath with carerra marble.

posted by: kiwihouse on 01.05.2009 at 04:13 pm in Home Decorating Forum

What paint would you use? We have basketweave marble on floor and carerra tile on shower wall. Was thinking a grey but can't find a good BM gray. Any suggestions? Light blue? Any good grays? Tried Litchfield grey and it did not loook gray at all to me!
THANKS

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 04:08 pm

RE: Basketweave questions from a new poster (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jeanninepc99 on 08.28.2008 at 09:00 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'm settled on the marble basektweave, too! I bought one piece just to stare at until I place my order. :)

From the store:

By the way, just over a week ago, the flooring and the matching marble subway times cost $9.99. I don't know if it was some sort of sale or if the prices just increased.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 02:37 pm

RE: Trying to do classic kitchen - white cab/hardwood floor/black (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rmkitchen on 01.03.2009 at 07:08 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My kitchen is similar, although instead of black countertops I've marble and our island (base) is black -- but it's still pretty close. We have a v. sheer grey-blue (BM Pearl River) on our walls.

I think the "classic kitchen" scheme can handle any color: in my mind's eye I can easily see tangerine walls, taupe walls, chartreuse walls, celery walls, chocolate walls, cream walls, fuchsia walls, lavender walls -- I think anything you want and which will make you happy can be done beautifully with your white / black kitchen.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 10:15 am

Can you identify these stools, please?

posted by: dcclerk on 12.08.2008 at 01:40 am in Home Decorating Forum

I went to one of those holiday home tours and fell in love with a house done by this design group. The house I toured had the same stools that are in the kitchen in this portfolio home. (I'm sorry that I can't figure out a direct link to just that picture-- it is toward the bottom right of the thumbnails.) It has a good mix of industrial with old school elegance (to my eyes). Have you seen it before? Will a set break my bank?

And extra points for those lights, too!

Here is a link that might be useful: The stools are in the Rumson NJ house

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.31.2008 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2008 at 09:29 pm

RE: please point me in a color direction! (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: victoriajane on 12.30.2008 at 03:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

katie, stonington and wickham are on the same chip as coventry. Stonington is the middle one. I don't see any green or blue (although as I said, I originally envisioned a silvery blue toned gray). These are much warmer, slightly beig-y. I thought the stonington looked just right with my cab and counter choices, although I never would have chosen it just by itself in the store. I just got back from my second trip of the day to BM - I brought in my cab and counter samples this time - and the color consultant confirmed my decision - stonington is the way to go with the dove white cabinets, which incidentally, are not like BM's dove white which is grayer. My dove white cabs have a more yellowish cast to them. She also helped me pick a matching white for the trim, which ended up being BM's cloud white (not exact of course but pretty darn close.)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.31.2008 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2008 at 12:54 pm

RE: please point me in a color direction! (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: katiekitchen on 12.30.2008 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wickham and Stonington were two colors I considered, too. Aren't they on the same chip as titanium? Someone here has titanium in her kitchen and it looks great. It looked much more green in my house. I tried moonshine, too which is more blueish. As I said before, I ended up with Light Pewter because I couldn't help but see blue and green in all of the other grays I tried.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.31.2008 at 12:53 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2008 at 12:54 pm

RE: please point me in a color direction! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: rmkitchen on 12.29.2008 at 10:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if you've seen my kitchen (white perimeter cabs, black island, Calacatta countertop / backsplash, polished nickel hardware, some stainless appliances):

but I have BM's Pearl River on the walls with a 50% formula on the ceiling. I love it. I LOVE it!


we now have window treatments!

Have you seen redroze's kitchen? She has BM Natural Cream and it is really pretty with her white cabinets ... the creaminess of it would be lovely with the gold in the Calacatta.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.30.2008 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 12.30.2008 at 11:36 am

RE: Benjamin Moore paint question (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: sarschlos_remodeler on 09.04.2008 at 04:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I just sampled a bunch of BM grays for our kitchen. We live in So. Cal. and have a very lush green yard, which may affect my perception of the colors. Here are the ones I sampled:

Whisper violet -- turns a very pale bluish color. Pretty but not a true gray

Coventry gray -- I think this was the truest gray I tried. Pale and very pretty. If you're looking for a true gray, this would be my choice. My fam nixed it because they liked the blue-grays better.

Feather gray -- a pale gray-blue. Gorgeous color.

Timber wold -- also a true gray, slightly ddarker than coventry gray. Very nice

Wolf gray -- really dark true gray. Could read nearly black in certain settings.

Pigeon Gray -- the color we chose is a medium toned gray-blue.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.24.2008 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2008 at 03:22 pm

RE: Searching for plain white basketweave floor tile (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: jeanninepc99 on 12.20.2008 at 12:39 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've definitely seen ceramic basketweave on mesh. Best Tile (national chain, good prices) carries it at very reasonable prices. I saw some in their back room (in stock and ready to go home) for around $5/sq ft.

Polished, Carrera marble basketweave can be found for reasonable prices ($11.99-$16.99 per sq ft). When you start getting into colored dots and nicer material like Thassos, the price jumps.

Just for fun, in this picture, you can see an $11.99/sq ft basketweave on the floor and wall of a shower:

Close up:

The pictures are from The Tile Shop, which I don't recommend. I ordered basketweave from them and it arrived yellow! It was junk.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.20.2008 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2008 at 04:11 pm

RE: Room for doorless shower here? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: jrtgal on 10.10.2008 at 10:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I also removed a tub and put in a doorless (and stepless) shower. Still a WIP but so far I am loving it. The shower area is 3x5. Here is a photo (excuse the dishwashing liquid and stool used as a dish dryer, this is currently my only functioning sink!)
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.15.2008 at 12:44 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2008 at 12:44 pm

My finished 'glamour vintage' bathroom

posted by: mrslimestone on 02.09.2008 at 06:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My master bathroom is finally finished. I nearing the end of a long gut renovation and I wanted to share the sole completed room in the entire house! Size is approx 10x5ft in a 100 year old home.

FinishedBath
Sorry about the lighting in these photos. I need to add bulbs in the sconces.

Floor tiles: Marble basketweave with ming dot accents
Wall tiles: The no name subway tile that was in stock at tile shop finished with victorian cap
Vanity, Medcine Cabinets, Lights, Shelves, Faucet, Towel Bar: Restoration Hardware
Toilet: Toto Promenade
Wall Color: Quiet Moments by Benjamin Moore
Shower: Sign of the Crab exposed with handheld

Im planning on adding some fluffy towels, a potted orchid, some photographs on the far wall and teak bench to finish it off. Any other suggestions appreciated.

Just wanted to thank everyone on this board for being such a great resource. I come here with questions and always leave with an answer from a simple search or posted question.

More photos:
ShowerNiche
ExposedShowerShowerHandles
BathroomDoorToiletDoubleSink
MasterBathLeftsideofSinkMasterBathFaucet

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.15.2008 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2008 at 12:19 pm

pics Cream cabs, soapstne, marble, alder island - almost done

posted by: ndvweb on 11.13.2008 at 01:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

6 weeks and counting... can't wait to cook again. There's been several delays, including today's 'streaked marble' countertop but I'm still feeling positive the end is in sight.

island and hood

fridge wall

aga range

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.12.2008 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2008 at 04:28 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.


Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


Measuring:

  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:
    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


Installation:

  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
      • Make sure the seams are butted tight
      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
    • Check for chips. These can be filled.
    • Make sure the top drawers open & close
    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:
    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.10.2008 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2008 at 05:20 pm

RE: Kitchen Finished Pics-need backsplash advice (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: lanugget on 12.09.2008 at 03:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the great feedback.

eks6426 - the cabinet paint is BM Lancaster Whitewash, the wall paint is SW Milk Pail, it is a discontinued Martha Stewart color, but they still have the formula.

Daniell00 - my cabinetmaker and I designed the shelves, and he built them.

mgkinz - the rangetop is a Wolf, and I think it's great.

As far as the backsplash goes, apparently because of the griddle in the rangetop, we have to put something non-combustible behind it. So I wasn't sure if it would look funny to put something only behind the rangetop, or should it be carried under the windows also? thanks again.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.10.2008 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 12.10.2008 at 09:38 am

Need a Gray with Blue-Green undertones

posted by: jockewing on 12.08.2008 at 09:40 am in Home Decorating Forum

In my mind's eye, I can see the perfect blue-green color on my living room walls. The problem is, I can't seem to find the right paint to achieve this. Sherwin Williams Rain and Aqua-Sphere look perfect on the chip, but too baby blue on the walls. I love BM Azores and Atmospheric in the Affinity colors, but I'm afraid of going that dark. It seems like it is pretty easy to pick a blue/green that works in the medium or darker tones, but when you try to go light, you end up with that baby blue effect.

Basically I want a blue with green undertones that is light, but not too light, and that won't go too aqua or baby blue on the walls. I have tried BM Wythe Blue (too cartoony aqua), Azores (lovely, but too dark for the room), SW Rain and Aqua-Sphere (too baby blue). I guess I need something with a lot more gray in it than I would naturally pick. Has anyone found a gray that turns to that soft blue-green that I am looking for?

Looking through BM's grays, a potential candidate is Colorado Gray. Also looked at some old SW strips, and Impressionist Sky and Blue Reef look good (but I bet they'd turn too baby blue). Please help, I've never really worked with grays before!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.09.2008 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2008 at 02:28 pm

Please tell me about 'white'

posted by: sayde on 09.22.2008 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I know there have been lots of threads discussing various whites -- I've read them. What I would love to have input on is the process of going from a chip to the cabinet --

For example -- I see MamaDadaPaige used Crown Point's Antique white (hope it's alright if I use your kitchen as an example Karen!), and it is a beautiful color. I have the chip of Antique White from Crown Point, and it seems so yellow -- I would not have picked it -- but when I see how it looks in Mama's kitchen and other kitchens on their web site, it just looks perfect -- not yellow, just a wonderful white. May-be I should just use it and bypass this whole quest --

But would appreciate knowing how you selected your white (really, off white) and what you learned along the way . . . .

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.09.2008 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 12.09.2008 at 08:29 am

creamy white or white white?

posted by: victoriajane on 10.16.2008 at 12:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those of you with classic white kitchens, did you use a creamy or stark white paint on the cabinets? I've seen all the beautiful photos that have been posted on this site, but even the same cabinets look different in different photos depending on the light, so it's difficult for me to tell what color they actually are. Which does everyone prefer: white-white, or "antique white" which sounds good but in the cabinets I am going with it seemed just a little too off-white, but maybe that's because I was comparing it right next to the white white. Also, if you were going with chrome and glass hardware, would that be a factor in your choice? What about depending on whether you were using stainless steel or soapstone counters? The trim in the kitchen , BTW, is going to be white and there is extremely little wall space to speak of but what is there will probably be a very pale yellow.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.09.2008 at 08:23 am    last updated on: 12.09.2008 at 08:23 am

Mini brick marble backsplash finally installed

posted by: jen4268 on 10.25.2008 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

My mini brick marble backsplash was finally installed this week, and as I had a few requests here are my installed pictures. I only had a the backsplash done on my hutch area, but I really like how it turned out.

It was called oriental white mini brick, and is polished. I think it contrasts well with the honed antique nordic black granite.

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 08:35 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 08:36 pm

Mudroom locker systems from cabinet companies?

posted by: lhildreth on 11.12.2006 at 12:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

The company we bought our kitchen and bath cabinets from has quoted us $6500 for a 64" wide mudroom locker setup. This price is using Aristocraft brand cabinets (we have Decora brand elsewhere which seems to be more high end) - they told us to add 50% for Decora. I've had a competitor come out and their bid was just as high (they again used Aristocraft).

I'm thinking the reason this price is so outrageous is that Aristocraft doesn't have "standard" components to create these lockers, so they are cobbling it together using refrigerator end panels, modified depth wall cabinets, etc.

If I can't get the price down to $2500 or so, I'm going to have to settle for the Pottery Barn pre-fab deal.

Our "mudroom" is really more of our garage entry (and we're in Florida - boots, coats, etc. will not be stored here and left to dry) and is highly visible (very open floor plan), so I am more concerned with looks than with function. This is more of a place for storing backpacks, laptop bags and shoes.

Since this concept seems to be growing in popularity, I'm wondering if anyone has seen "standard" components to create this type of storage system from the big cabinet companies (Kraftmaid, etc.)?

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 07:10 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 07:10 pm

Finished Kitchen Pictures (except backsplash)

posted by: alliern on 11.24.2008 at 12:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello! I am happy to finally be able to say that our house is done and we moved from NYC to Colorado 3 weeks ago! Here are some pictures of our new kitchen...I am so enjoying it! I am still undecided about what to do for a backsplash...have to make a decision soon but I wanted to live in the house for a little while before deciding :)

Details:
DW, Fridge, microwave/convection oven (Kitchen Aid)
6 burner dual-fuel 36" range (Thermador)
Thermador Traditional Silent 42" Hood w/remote blower
Perimeter countertop Black Minas Soapstone from Dorado Soapstone
Island Countertop Honed Statuario Marble
Perimeter Cabinets custom built with BM Simply White paint
Island Custom Built Alder
Floor Owens PlankFloor 6" Walnut with Satin Water Based Polyurethane
Delta Allura Faucet and soap dispenser
Danze Pot Filler
Cabinet hardware from Restoration Hardware

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

BM Titanium

Wilmette Mini Cargo Pendant

clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 11:05 am

I Need Help...on Paint Color

posted by: katiekitchen on 12.06.2008 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

We will be painting our kitchen on Wednesday before the cabinets go in and I'm stumped for paint color.

We are doing white (not cream - similar to SW xtra white) cabinets, black granite, black island and red oak hardwood floors (to match the rest of the house).

I thought I would want a gray, but when I tried the samples of grays, they look too green (BM titanium and moonshine) or too blue (BM silvery moon or gray mist) and I'm drawn to, but not sure if I should use a beige (like BM revere pewter or edgecomb gray). I don't want to do too dark because it's a really small room and I don't want to make it look any smaller (I thought BM stonington gray was too dark).

So, what color have others used with white cabinets and black counters? Is it ok to go toward the browns? What about white - I've read in some articles that paintin the walls the same as the cabinets can open up a small space. What do you think?

Thanks for any and all advice!!

NOTES:

BM revere pewter or edgecomb gray

BM silvery moon or gray mist

clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 11:00 am

Why can't I find that gorgeous Victorian white kitchen...

posted by: madaboutkitchens on 12.04.2008 at 08:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

with creamy cabinets, stainless appliances, and unbelievable inlaid wood floors? I think it was a whole house renovation, maybe in the Boston area? Definitely a Historic home....anyone remember whose it was?

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 10:57 am

RE: who has their kitchen open to their dining room? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: catsam on 12.03.2008 at 09:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

ptyles and janefan - very nice - it just makes you feel like you can breath in a more open space, doesn't it?

Here is my open kitchen / dining area.

view from dining area
Photobucket

view of dining room from foyer
Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 10:55 am

Traditional Classic Styled White kitchen- 99% finished!

posted by: muranogirl on 01.21.2008 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi girls! My kitchen is almost finished. Although not a reno, it was a self built home and we are still finishing areas of the house including the kitchen. I had asked you for help choosing a backsplash, and thank you all so much! We chose a creamy matte subway in a 1 x 2 mosaic. It should come in this week and I've attatched photos of it. I'm so excited! Sooooo.... here's our 99% finished kitchen!
Details...
Creamy white cabinets (arctic), island in Alder stained with burnt sienna by Westridge Cabinets.
White Kashmir Granite
Black Iron pulls and knobs
Kenmore Elite Stainless appliances, including fridge, dishwasher, mircrowave, slide in range, garborator.
Delta aberdeen faucet
Daltile 1 X 2 mosaics full body porcelain tiles in "buiscut"
Wall paint Creamy White benjamin moore, Ceiling paint custom-mixed light gray, trim paint cloud white by BM.
Central vac pan/kick under island
Island measures 5 feet by 8 feet and features 6 inch turned leg posts extended to the corners. (island fits 4 bar stools)
Flooring, engineerd hardwood oak by bellefloor in wenge.
Wine rack on end of island.
Triarch "The Classic" pendants over island.


The backsplash that I've ordered.


view from livingroom
(please ignore the mess, we were tiling the entry in this photo)



Pantry door has since been frosted..


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 10:53 am

Help...Please show pics of your creamy white kitchens

posted by: acountryfarm on 11.01.2008 at 10:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

So to all you creamy white kitchen owners. Please share pics.

I have honed, black countertops w/ creamy cabs. Black islands topped with Carrera. Do I have last minute angst? I am just not feeling good when I walk in the kitchen. This is what I have dreamed of and planned for. Will it change with light. I am crestfallen. I walked in to the kitchen today with all the paper off and the paint done and just felt.... well not really pleased. What is my problem ???
I also meant to take pics but left camera in other car. Will share soon though.

Please share pics, I know there are a lot of you with similar combinations.
I just need some reassurance, hope thats all it is.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 10:48 am