Clippings by solstice98

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RE: November Quilting/Sewing Goals (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: toolgranny on 11.26.2009 at 01:57 pm in Quilting Forum

Our month is about over and I've completed my goals, except the FMQ on color wheel. Might get to it yet.

1. Table runner (FOR ME)

Xmas table runner

2. Jeweled Forest pattern hanging. I didn't do it in the bright colors but did a Xmas fabric version and this homespun version. I liked the homespun best and put the other blocks away for next year. I may post this by itself since it is a pattern many have seen and might be working on.

Jeweled Forest pattern

3. Jigsaw puzzle quilt together. This will be a major FMQ job so won't get to that part for awhile. It will join my pile of FMQ UFOs for now but it's a relief to get it to this stage.

Jigsaw puzzle

4. You can see Teddy Bear blocks above color wheel.

5. Color wheel ready to sandwich and quilt. I hand dyed the fabrics so it took a long time for the right colors and still it has colors not quite up to par. But, it's good enough to decorate my wall in an office no one else gets to see anyway.

color wheel

Okay Sharon, what have you got planned for December? It's a busy month so I may just work on the learning curve to get up and running on the new Grace frame. Shopping first, of course.


Saved for the jigsaw quilt!
clipped on: 11.30.2009 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2009 at 02:40 pm

RE: Questions: Baltimore Album & Applique (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: geezerfolks on 09.22.2009 at 06:34 pm in Quilting Forum

We had an applique class here on the forum a year or so ago that got me started. I'm currently working on Eleanor Burns Applique In A Day. It's a WIP that possibly you have helped spur me on. I have 4 completed and another almost done. I'm using muslin for the background on these and I've found longer needles work well for me. Here are the 4 I've done.

I really like this technique for applique....


Here is a link that might be useful: applique tutorial


applique patterns
clipped on: 09.22.2009 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2009 at 07:21 pm

Classroom UFO completed (pic)

posted by: toolgranny on 08.10.2009 at 06:37 pm in Quilting Forum

This is the product of Annie Smith's class on Value. All nine blocks are same pattern only you stack up the fabric and cut pieces and shuffle to place different values in different places on each. It makes a nice study, doesn't it. Who'd have thought that block could look so different just by moving the values around. Not my best work but good to practice on.

Value class


Different way to stack and whack! 9 fabrics, all cut the same and pieces switched around. Love it!
clipped on: 08.11.2009 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 08.11.2009 at 08:48 am


posted by: nicethyme on 07.31.2009 at 07:38 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I have always wanted to try leaf casting

so here I have coated the back of a paulownia leaf with concrete patch, reinforced the edges with drywall tape and added anoth layer of patch on the edges. Now I covered the whole back with drywall tape and start troweling on the sand/portland mix

leaf 2


clipped on: 07.31.2009 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2009 at 10:42 pm

RE: Rhubarb Leaf (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: becky_ia on 07.17.2009 at 05:44 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Solstice98-You are correct-it is not hypertufa but a special concrete mix called vinyl patch. I like it because it does such a nice job with the leaves. I painted some more the last couple of days; some hosta leaves besides rhubarb.... Tried a couple of other colors too. This is so addicting!


All Colors


clipped on: 07.17.2009 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2009 at 05:47 pm

Baby quilt

posted by: damascusannie on 08.22.2008 at 04:29 pm in Quilting Forum

I made this baby quilt for our godson's daughter; finished putting the binding on this morning. The fabric is Moda's "Peas and Carrots" and features retro pictures of children at the farm sort of like Dick and Jane. The block is called "Snowball Star." --Annie

alayna's quilt

alayana's quilt detail 2


clipped on: 08.23.2008 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 07.02.2009 at 08:38 pm

Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention VII

posted by: tapla on 03.22.2009 at 08:29 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I first posted this thread back in March of 05. Six times, it has reached the maximum number of posts to a single thread (150), which is much more attention than I ever imagined it would garner. I have reposted it, in no small part, because it has been a wonderful catalyst in the forging of new friendships and in increasing my list of acquaintances with similar growing interests. The forum and email exchanges that stem so often from the subject are in themselves, enough to make me hope the subject continues to pique interest and hopefully, the exchanges provide helpful information. Most of the motivation for posting this thread again comes from the participants reinforcement of the idea that some of the information provided in good-spirited collective exchange will make some degree of difference in the level of satisfaction of many readers growing experience.

I'll provide links to the previous five threads at the end of what I have written - in case you have interest in reviewing them. Thank you for taking the time to look into this subject - I hope that any/all who read it take at least something interesting and helpful from it. I know it's long, but I hope you find it worth the read.

Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention - A Discussion About Soils

As container gardeners, our first priority should be to insure the soils we use are adequately aerated for the life of the planting, or in the case of perennial material (trees, shrubs, garden perennials), from repot to repot. Soil aeration/drainage is the most important consideration in any container planting. Soils are the foundation that all container plantings are built on, and aeration is the very cornerstone of that foundation. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find and use soils or primary components with particles larger than peat. Durability and stability of soil components so they contribute to the retention of soil structure for extended periods is also extremely important. Pine and some other types of conifer bark fit the bill nicely, but Ill talk more about various components later.

What I will write also hits pretty hard against the futility in using a drainage layer of coarse materials as an attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the total volume of soil available for root colonization. A wick can be employed to remove water from the saturated layer of soil at the container bottom, but a drainage layer is not effective. A wick can be made to work in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now.

Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for use in containers, I'll post basic mix recipes later, in case any would like to try the soil. It will follow the Water Movement information.
Consider this if you will:
Soil fills only a few needs in container culture. Among them are: Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Retention - It must retain enough nutrients in available form to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to move through the root system and by-product gasses to escape. Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants can be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement of water in soil(s).

There are two forces that cause water to move through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the container than it is for water at the bottom. I'll return to that later. Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion; in other words, waters bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; in this condition it forms a drop. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source, and it will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper.

There will be a naturally occurring "perched water table" (PWT) in containers when soil particulate size is under about .125 (1/8) inch.. This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated & will not drain from the portion of the pot it occupies. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will surpass the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is perched. The smaller the size of the particles in a soil, the greater the height of the PWT. This water can be tightly held in heavy (comprised of small particles) soils and perch (think of a bird on a perch) just above the container bottom where it will not drain; or, it can perch in a layer of heavy soil on top of a coarse drainage layer, where it will not drain.

Imagine that we have five cylinders of varying heights, shapes, and diameters, each with drain holes, and we fill them all with the same soil mix, then saturate the soil. The PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This saturated area of the container is where roots initially seldom penetrate & where root problems frequently begin due to a lack of aeration. Water and nutrient uptake are also compromised by lack of air in the root zone. Keeping in mind the fact that the PWT height is dependent on soil particle size and has nothing to do with height or shape of the container, we can draw the conclusion that: Tall growing containers will always have a higher percentage of unsaturated soil than squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. From this, we could make a good case that taller containers are easier to grow in.

A given volume of large soil particles has less overall surface area when compared to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the height of the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Mixing large particles with small is often very ineffective because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential. An illustrative question: How much perlite do we need to add to pudding to make it drain well?

We have seen that adding a coarse drainage layer at the container bottom does not improve drainage. It does though, reduce the volume of soil required to fill a container, making the container lighter. When we employ a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This simply reduces the volume of soil available for roots to colonize. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better and more uniform drainage and have a lower PWT than containers using the same soil with drainage layers.

The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area on soil particles for water to be attracted to in the soil above the drainage layer than there is in the drainage layer, so the water perches. I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen employ the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science.

If you discover you need to increase drainage, you can simply insert an absorbent wick into a drainage hole & allow it to extend from the saturated soil in the container to a few inches below the bottom of the pot, or allow it to contact soil below the container where the earth acts as a giant wick and will absorb all or most of the perched water in the container, in most cases. Eliminating the PWT has much the same effect as providing your plants much more soil to grow in, as well as allowing more, much needed air in the root zone.

In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.

Bark fines of fir, hemlock or pine, are excellent as the primary component of your soils. The lignin contained in bark keeps it rigid and the rigidity provides air-holding pockets in the root zone far longer than peat or compost mixes that too quickly break down to a soup-like consistency. Conifer bark also contains suberin, a lipid sometimes referred to as natures preservative. Suberin, more scarce as a presence in sapwood products and hardwood bark, dramatically slows the decomposition of conifer bark-based soils. It contains highly varied hydrocarbon chains and the microorganisms that turn peat to soup have great difficulty cleaving these chains.

To confirm the existence of the PWT and how effective a wick is at removing it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup and allow the water to drain. When drainage has stopped, insert a wick into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. Even touching the soil with a toothpick through the drain hole will cause substantial additional water to drain. The water that drains is water that occupied the PWT. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick or toothpick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper than it is, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the water in the PWT along with it. If there is interest, there are other simple and interesting experiments you can perform to confirm the existence of a PWT in container soils. I can expand later in the thread.

I always remain cognizant of these physical principles whenever I build a soil. I havent used a commercially prepared soil in many years, preferring to build a soil or amend one of my 2 basic mixes to suit individual plantings. I keep many ingredients at the ready for building soils, but the basic building process usually starts with conifer bark and perlite. Sphagnum peat plays a secondary role in my container soils because it breaks down too quickly to suit me, and when it does, it impedes drainage and reduces aeration. Size matters. Partially composted conifer bark fines (pine is easiest to find and least expensive) works best in the following recipes, followed by uncomposted bark in the <3/8" range.

Note that there is no sand or compost in the soils I use. Sand, as most of you think of it, can improve drainage in some cases, but it reduces aeration by filling valuable macro-pores in soils. Unless sand particle size is fairly uniform and/or larger than about BB size I leave it out of soils. Compost is too unstable for me to consider using in soils. The small amount of micro-nutrients it supplies can easily be delivered by one or more of a number of chemical or organic sources.

My Basic Soils
5 parts pine bark fines
1 part sphagnum peat (not reed or sedge peat please)
1-2 parts perlite
garden lime (or gypsum in some cases)
controlled release fertilizer (if preferred)
micro-nutrient powder, other continued source of micro-nutrients, or fertilizer with all nutrients - including minors

Big batch:
2-3 cu ft pine bark fines
5 gallons peat
5 gallons perlite
2 cups dolomitic (garden) lime (or gypsum in some cases)
2 cups CRF (if preferred)
1/2 cup micro-nutrient powder (or other source of the minors)

Small batch:
3 gallons pine bark
1/2 gallon peat
1/2 gallon perlite
4 tbsp lime (or gypsum in some cases)
1/4 cup CRF (if preferred)
micro-nutrient powder (or other source of the minors)

I have seen advice that some highly organic (practically speaking - almost all container soils are highly organic) container soils are productive for up to 5 years or more. I disagree and will explain why if there is interest. Even if you were to substitute fir bark for pine bark in this recipe (and this recipe will long outlast any peat based soil) you should only expect a maximum of two to three years life before a repot is in order. Usually perennials, including trees (they're perennials too) should be repotted more frequently to insure vigor closer to their genetic potential. If a soil is desired that will retain structure for long periods, we need to look more to inorganic components. Some examples are crushed granite, pea stone, coarse sand (see above - usually no smaller than BB size in containers, please), Haydite, lava rock (pumice), Turface or Schultz soil conditioner, and others.

For long term (especially woody) plantings and houseplants, I use a soil that is extremely durable and structurally sound. The basic mix is equal parts of pine bark, Turface, and crushed granite.

1 part uncomposted pine or fir bark
1 part Turface
1 part crushed granite
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
CRF (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials
I use 1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution when I fertilize (check your fertilizer - if it is soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg.

Thank you for your interest.

If there is additional interest, please review previous contributions to this thread here:

Post VI
Post V
Post IV
Post III
Post II
Post I



clipped on: 04.08.2009 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2009 at 10:27 pm

RE: Climate change, anyone? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: solstice98 on 03.31.2009 at 11:36 am in Florida Gardening Forum

I remember practicing 'duck and cover' in grade school! I still have a vision of the nuns making us huddle under our desks but all they did was turn their backs to the windows as if the nun's habit would offer all the protection they needed!

I'm still struggling with the whole global warming thing but I don't understand the anger it generates in some people. Some of the facts are impossible to ignore; it seems to me that it's the interpretation that can go several ways.

  • Climate change doesn't mean that every day will be warmer than last year or 10 years ago, it just means that average temps will increase over time.
  • The glaciers are receding and in some cases disappearing. The change has been dramatic. That is a fact. Whether it's just a normal fluctuation or a sign of impending disaster is open to interpretation.
  • Someone said recently that only some glaciers are receding while some are growing. I did google searches under every key word I could think of and didn't find a single case of a glacier increasing in mass. If someone has that information, please post it because I would like to check it out.
  • While science can show that there have been many natural fluctuations in climate over the millenia (sp?), the numbers seem to show that this change has been much quicker. Again, this is where interpretation of the numbers comes in. More study seems like a good idea.
  • Who benefits from lying about this? I've seen accusations that the whole climate change theory is a liberal conspiracy but I don't get that. I admit to being pretty liberal on many social issues, but I'm a conservative on most financial ones. I don't think most big business is evil, even when choices are made that hurt some employees. It seems to me that Big Oil would naturally take a stance against accusations that they are causing global warming, but that's only a small part of the theory of climate change. Why is the everyday gardener ("the-man-in-the-garden") so adamant that this is all a liberal plot? Seriously, I'm not generally considered to be stupid by people who know me well, but I don't get this. I'm listening if you want to enlighten me!
  • I think there's some confusion about Earth Hour. Earth Hour is the brain child of the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) the world's largest animal protection/conservation group. They are non-governmental and are supported by millions of people, liberal and conservative alike. The event, in it's 3rd year, wasn't meant to save energy or to teach people to live without TV for an hour. The idea was that if there was a drop in energy use during that hour it would be a message that people are concerned about wasteful energy consumption and possible climate change issues. It was timed so that the results could be presented to the United Nations Climate Change Conference coming up. The goal of this conference is to design a better global plan than the Kyoto Protocol, which many (including Pres. Bush) found to be lacking in many areas. If a plan is being designed, why wouldn't we want it to be a good one?
  • By the way, the biggest controversy about WWF is that they are too closely linked to big business and aren't liberal or radical enough to make most environmentalist happy. They are not a liberal hotbed of anarchy.
  • My background and schooling are heavily slanted toward the scientific so I like facts, study, projects, etc. It took a long time for me to move off that idea that what's happening is just a normal fluctuation and I'm still not totally convinced. But I think there is enough evidence to warrent further study. I am convinced that we can do a better job of energy conservation - we are pretty wasteful about a lot of things and I'm just as guilty as anyone. We see the problems with overuse of water in Florida. We see the problems with overuse of pesticides and fertilizers in our gardens. Many people on this forum are proponents of organic gardening (another good topic for an open discussion!) and I wonder if they have similar opinions about climate change.



clipped on: 03.31.2009 at 01:09 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2009 at 01:10 pm

RE: Using Fireants as nature's pesticide (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: solstice98 on 03.27.2009 at 08:05 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Curious as to what section of Orlando you live in with a Camel problem??

Well, I haven't actually SEEN one for a while but I'm pretty sure they are there, lurking around. I occasionally find plants trampled, garbage turned over, garden chairs knocked on their sides, new shoots nibbled off.... pretty sure that's the work of the evil dromedary.
Good point about the escape issue: I'll bet our local herd came from some experimental lab at UCF!
I'll have to check into that just as soon as the black helicopters stop flying around my house.

First, must go to the store to purchase more tin foil...


clipped on: 03.28.2009 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 03.28.2009 at 11:10 am

RE: Bad day in the 'garden' (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gatormomx2 on 03.22.2009 at 07:32 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

Whenever you have a citrus question , check the University of Florida website for the latest research .
It is easy to remember -
In the search box enter dooryard citrus care - you will be amazed at the info .
You can print it out and start a file and refer to this info often .
Plain cheap dish soap can be your best friend with citrus . That and a hose end sprayer and you're in business .
Spray often ! Buggie season is upon us !


clipped on: 03.22.2009 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2009 at 10:28 pm

Shakespeare in the Park

posted by: vicky4x4 on 03.18.2009 at 01:00 pm in Quilting Forum

I finished it last night.
Shakespeare in the Park

Emily with her quilt:
Emily and Shakespeare


star in a star + snails tail / set on point
clipped on: 03.18.2009 at 10:23 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2009 at 10:23 pm

RE: pattern 'Warm Wishes' (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: woodenzoo on 03.17.2009 at 11:49 pm in Quilting Forum

Here's the only one I could find...
Hope it helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: AQG-Warm Wishes Quilt


clipped on: 03.18.2009 at 07:58 am    last updated on: 03.18.2009 at 07:59 am

RE: Anyone know where I can get bales of pine needles in West Vol (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: an_ill-mannered_ache on 02.26.2009 at 08:57 am in Florida Gardening Forum

it can be had reasonably from volusia shed, right off of i4 on 17/92 in deland. google it! (you can also get mushroom compost, potting mix, mulches of all flavors... just not pine fines. sigh.)


clipped on: 02.26.2009 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2009 at 04:10 pm

RE: Yardage Needs for Baby Quilt/Also Price Pls. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: teresa_nc7 on 02.23.2009 at 09:11 am in Quilting Forum

Yardage will depend on what pattern you are piecing. I mostly use my stash and specialize in scrappy quilts so I can't help you there.

My baby quilts are around 40" square or 40" x 50" rectangular. I don't want to make them wider than 40" because that might mean piecing the back, which I am loath to do.

Prices for my baby quilts start at $120 (with a $60 deposit - I *always* get a deposit) for a scrappy style and go up to $175 for a quilt with lots of machine applique and special fabrics purchased. My baby quilts are always machine quilted also.

I love, love to make baby quilts!


clipped on: 02.23.2009 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 02.23.2009 at 09:40 am

Latest project

posted by: cannahavana on 02.10.2009 at 11:40 am in Quilting Forum

This quilt (top) was made for my DH for Valentines. I was hoping to get it finished in time, but I just ordered the backing fabric and probably won't be here until the end of the week. I guess you could say this is a charm quilt made out of 6 packs of charms from Connecting Threads, the Indigo 2 & 3 groups. I need to redo the mitered corners, the borders are waving hello to me. :) The size is 72 X 56. Not sure yet how I will quilt it, but it is small enough for me to handle on the machine. I might do diagonal lines and keep it simple. Rebecca



clipped on: 02.13.2009 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2009 at 01:07 pm

RE: October Block Lotto Sign Up (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: cannahavana on 09.29.2008 at 10:35 am in Quilting Forum

Here is a quilt I made for my DS using the same block with black/batiks and a print in the middle .




shooting star with black background and graduated colors. Love the border too!
clipped on: 09.30.2008 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 09.30.2008 at 08:52 am

Matching quilt for baby

posted by: nana24 on 08.10.2008 at 10:23 pm in Quilting Forum

This is a quilt I just finished and gave to a young couple expecting their 1st child. It is a matching quilt-2 of each fabric mostly bugs, butterflies, frogs, etc. It is 45 x 60 inches so I hope the child will still be using it when he is learning to match.

matching quilt 4

matching quilt 1

The young mother to be was so excited. She said she and her siblings had had a quilt their grandmother had made and they each drug it around until it finally fell apart. She was excited that her son would have the same experience. She was going home to call her mom to tell her about it.

It was fun to make.



clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 06:32 am    last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 06:33 am

Put the boarders on today

posted by: nanajayne on 08.30.2008 at 08:57 pm in Quilting Forum

This is one of the quilts I have been working on called "Shadow Play" A take off on the ocean wave pattern. Put the boarder on today and I am trying to decide if I am able to MQ it. Still debating. It's not my best work but DD likes it. JaynePhotobucket


clipped on: 09.01.2008 at 10:54 am    last updated on: 09.01.2008 at 10:54 am

RE: looking for experienced gardener in Florida... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: solstice98 on 07.11.2008 at 10:35 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Welcome to Florida and welcome to the Forum! You will receive lots of ideas, inspiration and support here. But I don't think you received exactly the response you were looking for - someone to come to your place and help you build your raised beds.

I want to explain a couple things so you don't think people aren't being helpful. I'm not being critical of your post - I just want you to understand since you are so new.

First of all, you just signed on to GardenWeb a couple days ago; you don't have a history here, so we don't know you or anything about your personality. We've had a couple issues with members who turned out to be (how should I say this...) 'stranger' than we expected them to be. Give this a little time, get to know people and let them get to know you. Maybe come to a swap or two. After that it will be a better time to invite people to come work in your yard.

But even then I'm not sure this is the right place to be looking to hire a garden helper. We don't do business on this forum and I think that's one of the things GardenWeb discourages. Like I said, I'm not being critical of your post - I just want you to understand since you are so new.

We often recommend that new residents - even experienced gardeners - take some time to get to know their yard, to understand growing conditions and the seasons in Florida, and to really think about what they want from their yard before they start building their gardens. Many of us who have moved here from other regions have been overwhelmed by the amount of time and work a garden takes in Florida. We try to save new residents some anguish by preaching a slow and cautious start!

All that being said, I'm sure you'll love gardening in this state and you'll enjoy this forum, too. Lots of great and very knowledgeable people here, willing to share ideas and support whenever you need them.



clipped on: 07.12.2008 at 05:12 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2008 at 05:12 pm

RE: Voting begins 10/21 Challenge quilt (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: redpenny on 10.20.2007 at 05:13 pm in Quilting Forum


Here is a link that might be useful: reds


good landscape example for Dakota Skies?
clipped on: 07.01.2008 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2008 at 01:43 pm

Easy Photo Posting Instructions (K8)

posted by: solstice98 on 06.30.2008 at 07:54 pm in Quilting Forum

I've seen a few requests for this information since I started posting on the Quilting Forum, so I thought I would just enter it all here. If this doesn't work for you or if you have problems, send me an email and I'll see if I can help. I love to see pictures so I'm happy to help anyone make that happen!

DON'T BE NERVOUS! This may sound complicated the first time but once you've done it you'll see it's easy and fun. You'll be posting pictures every time you visit the forum!

First of all, you need an account on a photo sharing site where you can store some pictures. You can't link directly to photos in your computer. Photobucket is the one I use the most and I think it's very, very easy, but Picasa, Kodak Gallery, and several other sites work just as well, I'm sure. These sites all have free accounts available and so you can start posting photos today without any expense. Cool, huh?

So, once you have the account set up, follow the instructions for uploading pictures from your computer. You can add them one at a time, or upload several at once. (See below for some thoughts on setting up albums.) Don't worry about losing them. You are just copying them to Phtoobucket and you'll keep them on your computer. Besides being able to share them, it's also a good backup for your most precious pictures.

When you have some photos loaded, your page will look something like this:

Photobucket Sample

To add a photo directly into your forum message, click once on the line under the photo that's labeled HTML Code. Then go to your message in the Quilt Forum (or whichever forum you want) and paste it into your text message. It will show up just as text until you hit the "Preview Message" button. Then the picture should show up. If it doesn't, check to be sure you selected the HTML Code line instead of one of the others.

You can add as many pictures to a single message as you want, but if you do more than 3 or 4 it gets very slow to open for people who use dial up.

Here's a good thing to understand: your picture doesn't really get transferred to GardenWeb. What happens is that the HTML code is telling GardenWeb (with magic computer instructions) where to go in Photobucket to find the photo AND it's also telling it to display the photo. If you delete the photo or even move it in Photobucket to a different album, GardenWeb will still have the old instructions and won't be able to find it. The link will be broken. If you edit the picture in Photobucket, making it smaller or adding a border, that will show up the next time someone looks at the message in GardenWeb. The real picture stays in Photobucket - GardenWeb just temporarily imports it each time someone opens your post. I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't let me know and I'll try again!

About albums: When you first set up your account, you'll see where you can "Add a new album". Since you won't want to move photos later (because you'll break the link), it's a good idea to set up a few albums right away. I suggest one for Home (house pictures), one for pets, one for garden, one for quilts, one for vacations, etc. It's easy to add them at any time so they don't need to all be set up right away, but a couple are a good idea. I even have one called Miscellaneous for any pictures that don't see to fit anywhere else!



clipped on: 06.30.2008 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2008 at 10:15 pm

RE: Applique quilt top (pic) (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: toolgranny on 06.23.2008 at 12:53 pm in Quilting Forum

First picture are purchased hand dyes. All my own hand dyed on the red and greens, and from now on. Went to a class and now they can't stop me! I've turned into a hand dye monster!

I wash with synthrapol and use color catcher to get last of color molecules. Don't fade after that. Even ones I buy I do that first even though they say they have done it. Color catcher shows if you have all loose dye molecules out. If you use the right dyes, it bonds with the cotton.

Today I'm dyeing fabrics for a child's project, mostly oranges and purples. I love seeing the finished piece of fabric from a recipe I've concocted myself.



clipped on: 06.24.2008 at 06:51 am    last updated on: 06.24.2008 at 06:51 am

Applique quilt top (pic)

posted by: toolgranny on 06.19.2008 at 01:20 pm in Quilting Forum

I know this is only a top but I'll share it now because who knows when it will get quilted. When you make something like this, you don't want to screw up the quilting so I'll think on it awhile.

whole top assembled

I saw one like this in an old English quilt book and copied the idea, using some blocks of theirs and some of my own.

Fabrics are hand dyes with a few pieces of magenta batik mixed in.

Next one will be in flaming oranges, reds and magentas. I've turned into a big fan of applique (thanks Jennifer).


clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2008 at 07:23 am

RE: photoshop elements (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: abr4xii on 05.22.2008 at 03:27 pm in Photography Forum

Does this help?

Here is a link that might be useful: Layers


clipped on: 06.09.2008 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2008 at 11:32 pm

quilt pic and brrrr----- erg

posted by: day2day on 05.19.2008 at 11:46 am in Quilting Forum

This quilt is called "Amish Jewel Box"- pic was taken by the great Atlantic Ocean. This area is a less than a 5-minute drive from my home. Hope you enjoy.
jewel box


clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 11:29 pm

RE: recent purchases (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: white_kelp_lane on 04.29.2008 at 04:39 pm in Quilting Forum

Maybe it's time to give this a rest. Those who have been paying attention know what happened. The person who did it hurt themself and maybe even their family, but they didn't hurt you. I'm sure they've received your message loud and clear. Continuing it just makes you look like schoolyard bullies. It's time to let it go and get back to talking about quilts.



clipped on: 04.29.2008 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2008 at 08:45 pm

RE: recent purchases (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: solstice98 on 04.29.2008 at 08:32 pm in Quilting Forum

Guilty, guilty, guilty.
"Let the banning begin..." I think that says it all.

I've been a member of GardenWeb since 2001 and have always felt comfortable signing my name (Kate) to my posts. I've hosted plant swaps at my home with 50 GardenWebbers from my area attending. I had never met those people before face to face, but knew they were friends from years of interaction on these forums. Always felt comfortable signing my name... until now. The nastiness I see on this forum led me to do something I would not have done before. Yup, I'm guilty. I signed on today as WLK because I wanted to continue to use this forum and talk to quilters and was afraid that if I said what I wanted to say I would have to face the mob. It was dumb and I admit it. Mostly it was dumb because if that's what I have to do to safely share an opinion then this is the wrong group for me. I'm pretty certain this will be my last post on this forum. I'll lurk and learn from the quilters who have wonderful things to share, but I don't think I'm up for the interaction.

For the record, I suspect 'Crafteegurl' was booted off the GW because of her comments and had to sign on as someone new. If you are demanding that everyone air their dirty laundry and beg the group's forgiveness then she should not be exempt. Isn't that what you are asking this other quilter to do? Throw herself at your mercy and beg forgiveness for passing off a quilt she bought as one she made? You've made it pretty clear you won't give it to her so why should she do it?

She made a terrible mistake. And she's shared more things about her family in the past than you wanted to hear. I understand why you may be tired of it, but there are better ways to handle it than to form a mob. "Grab your quilting needles and pitchforks and storm the castle!". Is this the way you learned to handle sad people? It doesn't sound like she has a very happy life at home; this forum may have been her one escape from that and the one place she had 'friends'.

I'm not sure why you felt the need to destroy her publicly instead of confronting her privately. You did and that parts done. I seriously don't understand why a couple of you need to keep it up. You got what you wanted and as I read "Mary C"'s email I see you've hurt at least one other person on the way.

Outta here,


clipped on: 04.29.2008 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2008 at 08:45 pm

3 State Star Block Variations

posted by: suellen_delawares on 04.25.2008 at 05:48 pm in Quilting Forum

I found these free patterns at QNM
From top to bottom Alaska Star, Connecticut Star, Ohio Star

Here is a link that might be useful: 3 State Star Block Variations


clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 08:04 am

RE: 3 tons fo flagstone-help (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fawnridge on 04.24.2008 at 04:28 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

laura - get a roll of ground cloth and put it down where you want the pathway to go, right on top of the dying grass. This will help prevent the stones from sinking.

The right way to do your pathway is - ground cloth, a layer of drainfield rock at least 1" thick, then place the stones. Fill in with brown river rock between the stones to hide the drainfield rock and stablize the pathway. This is also the most expensive way of doing it.

You can get by without the drainfield rock and river rock, but you should not skip the ground cloth. Use finely shredded mulch between the rocks as a "grout" and bring the mulch out past the stones.

Think about two important considerations - first, are you going to walk side-by-side with someone? If so, then the pathway has to be at least 36" wide, 48" is best. Second, are you going to walk barefoot? If so, then the stones should be closer together as you'll be walking slower.


clipped on: 04.25.2008 at 04:04 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2008 at 04:04 pm

RE: Wishing for ..part 3 (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: cranelady on 05.16.2006 at 07:01 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

Peggy, Peggy, Peggy. What are we going to do with you?
You ask for help, then put your friends off time after time.
You say the jobs are huge and overwhelming, then say they are little messes. Do you ever go back and read the things you write?

Take some advice from an old lady: just get off your sofa and do it. I ache everyday from severe arthritis and I've had my share of tragedies in 88 years, including the loss of a child and a dear husband, so I know a little about all this. You are right, you'll never get over that, but that poor lost darling would want you to keep living and trying and hoping. She would want you to be caring for the living, including your plants and most especially, taking care of yourself.

Do this: spend 10 minutes each morning and 10 minutes each afternoon, no matter how bad you feel, cleaning up one little spot in your garden. Start at the front door and go clockwise around the house. Don't change from this pathway and don't jump around from job to job. Just 10 minutes at a time, but do it twice a day. Do it, do it, do it. Do it for this old lady. No more whining. If your friends want to come and help, let them and welcome them with open arms. But when they are there, let them work. This isn't social hour, its help to get you back on your feet. Remember that you'll never get on your feet while you are sitting on your you know what.

A lot of people wish you well, but you'll wear that out if you keep singing the same sad song. Shut off your computer and go do your 10 minutes right now. You people all spend too much time on this thing! (I tell my daughter that all the time too so I'm not just getting on you about it.)

88 and hurting, but still have dirt under my fingernails!


clipped on: 04.16.2008 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2008 at 10:20 pm

RE: post your *april* ufo-no-mo here (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cannahavana on 04.09.2008 at 02:53 pm in Quilting Forum

Yahoo! I'm done!

I didn't want to drag it out onto the deck to get a pic of the whole quilt so I just wanted to show you the quilting. The LA quilter did a great job! She charged .01 a square inch, and it came up a total of $96 to quilt it and it was well worth it. The quiting pattern is called classy curls.


close up


clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 06:43 pm

RE: April Lotto- Calling all kitty lovers! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: svanessa on 04.01.2008 at 04:56 pm in Quilting Forum

Here's a YouTube video on paper piecing. I haven't seen it as this site is blocked where I work so I hope it's good.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paper piecing How-to video


clipped on: 04.09.2008 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2008 at 06:34 pm

Pond Websites: List Your Favorites

posted by: azponder on 04.06.2008 at 05:29 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

With spring here, I find myself surfin the pond side of the net. Considering this forum has lead me to most of the knowledge I currently have, I would love to get some of your "can't do with out" pond links. What better way to get a healthy favorites list of pond knowledge than from the folks here?

I will start the ball rolling with this link I found when my koi got sick. It is set up to use as a diagnosis roadmap but one good read of this site and you'll be way ahead of the game when trying to keep your fish healthy.

For those who don't know how to link here. Click preview message and then the Optional Link URL box comes up and it appears at the bottom of your message.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pond Crisis


clipped on: 04.08.2008 at 03:45 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2008 at 03:45 pm

RE: Built my first cattle panel arch trellis today! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bencjedi on 06.26.2007 at 10:54 pm in Vertical Gardening Forum

Here's what my garden looks like now. Just wait til the cucumbers and the lone watermelon climb up that trellis!


clipped on: 03.30.2008 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2008 at 07:03 pm

New York Times & Florida lawns...

posted by: an_ill-mannered_ache on 06.19.2007 at 07:08 am in Florida Gardening Forum

The Times ran a piece of interest to this forum...

Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Is Slow to See the Need to Save Water


clipped on: 06.19.2007 at 07:56 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2007 at 07:56 pm

Homemade Feeder

posted by: ctnchpr on 06.14.2007 at 03:01 pm in Hummingbird Garden Forum

It's OK to laugh, the DW did. She called it a
contraption. I call it the "Hummer Happy Hour
Feeder". Everything (except the Tequila bottle)
is from the hardware/plumbing/electrical dept's
of Home Depot. Threaded plugs on each end allow
access for cleaning. This pic was taken at midday,
a slow time for the bar. The regular crowd will
shuffle in later.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 06.18.2007 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2007 at 09:58 pm

Begonia propagation for newbies

posted by: Mari11 on 10.31.2005 at 10:10 pm in Begonia Forum

I saw questions from newbies on how to propagate begonias by leaf cuttings. I am not very much experienced on growing begonias, but I've done leaf propagations many times and love it.
There are pictures step-by-step on propagation of rex begonia:

1)Choose a healthy mature leaf (I use sometimes young leaves also)
Image hosted by

2) Cut the edges

Image hosted by

3)Make 2-3 wedge-shaped cuttings

Image hosted by

4)Plant them in the mix of peat moss and perlite 1:1 in little pots, water and tent them for a few weeks

Image hosted by

5) There are new plants grown on leaf cuttings planted on Sept,29

Image hosted by

Rex begonias are very easy to propagate this way. Other rhizomatous begonias can be propagated by whole leaf, it may take up to 2 month until new plants show up.
While under cover they need very seldom watering, but check to avoid drying.
After babies are formed you can take off cover.Water sparingly.


clipped on: 05.03.2007 at 08:34 am    last updated on: 05.03.2007 at 08:34 am

RE: Happy Valentines Day---a thought to share (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: solstice98 on 02.16.2007 at 04:57 am in Florida Gardening Forum

I lost my Mom tonight. Tomorrow will be a rush of activity as we contact family and friends, but tonight at the hospice all is quiet and calm. This computer and internet link feel like a special gift and I'm so grateful to whoever thought to put it in the family room here.

I always thought I would feel a connection to the 'Rose through the Garden Wall' poem at this time, but I came across 'Red Geraniums' and it fits my mother so well. She was a compulsive gardener and loved the simple, classic plants best. I don't think she knew this poem but she would have liked it.

For Dorothy:


Life did not bring me silken gowns,
Nor jewels for my hair,
Nor signs of gabled foreign towns
In distant countries fair,
But I can glimpse, beyond my pane, a green and friendly hill,
And red geraniums aflame upon my window sill.

The brambled cares of everyday,
The tiny humdrum things,
May bind my feet when they would stray,
But still my heart has wings
While red geraniums are bloomed against my window glass,
And low above my green-sweet hill the gypsy wind-clouds pass.

And if my dreamings ne'er come true,
The brightest and the best,
But leave me lone my journey through,
I'll set my heart at rest,
And thank God for home-sweet things, a green and friendly hill,
And red geraniums aflame upon my window sill.

by Martha Haskell Clark


clipped on: 03.26.2007 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 03.26.2007 at 10:16 am

RE: Can anyone relate? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: solstice98 on 03.25.2007 at 09:06 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

Gardening is like farming. You'll have good years and bad years. Insects, disease, too much rain, too little rain, too hot, too cold, hurricanes, hail, neighborhood dogs, racoons, citrus rats, bad children, ugly lubbers, clumsy husbands, etc etc etc. This list goes on and on.
You'll find a few steady favorites that you'll plant each year because they almost always perform well, but the rest is experimentation. And what does well one year won't necessarily look good the next. It's not about being a nooby, it's just gardening!
So why do we all do this? Because when it works, it's glorious. And when it doesn't, we can at least tell good stories about it. (And everything that dies, gives us a space to try something new next year...)


clipped on: 03.26.2007 at 10:05 am    last updated on: 03.26.2007 at 10:06 am

RE: Picture retouching (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: firewire800 on 01.29.2007 at 11:44 pm in Photography Forum

Here's a link with info about hand coloring B&W.


Here is a link that might be useful: color B&W


clipped on: 02.06.2007 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2007 at 11:09 pm

RE: A tree for an old friend (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: katkin on 07.07.2006 at 06:49 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

It is so difficult to loose a pet, they are members of the family too. This poem was sent to me when I lost my lab. Hope it eases some of your pain.
...Grieve not,
nor speak of me with tears,
but laugh and talk of me
as if I were beside you...
I loved you so--
'twas Heaven here with you..
Isla Paschal Richardson


A wonderful poem to share with others who have lost a dear pet
clipped on: 08.31.2006 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2006 at 10:48 pm

RE: Never pressed flowers, what do you do with them? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: pressed4time on 01.02.2006 at 12:36 am in Dried & Pressed Flowers Forum

In addition to the suggestions posted, pressed flowers can also be applied to candles, ceramic tiles, glass ornaments, laminated to make magnets, decorate lampshades, scrapbooks, photo albums, and photo mats.

This is my first time posting to the Garden Web. I love this topic!


clipped on: 07.08.2006 at 07:37 am    last updated on: 07.08.2006 at 07:37 am

RE: Never pressed flowers, what do you do with them? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Josh on 09.18.2005 at 09:47 pm in Dried & Pressed Flowers Forum

Adam, I think most of us frame arrangements...the easiest to use I've found is an Acrylic Box Frame. It's easily changeable and will hang on wall or stand on my miles of bookshelves...and comes in variety of sizes (4x6" to 18x24"). Sometimes I just frame three perfect fern fronds or Autumn leaves. Sometimes I make a "bouquet" using flowers and bits of ivy, etc. It's fun to change often. There are all sorts of traditional frames too of course...I just like the simplicity and modern look of the acrylic box.

Decoupage is easy using Acrylic Matte Medium as both glue and protective finish. I've done wooden trays, wooden boxes and an antique wooden cannister set. Not really washable but can be cleaned with damp cloth. Or you could do wooden plaques for wallhanging.

Placing flowers and/or foliage between two pieces of clear vinyl adhesive shelfcovering is fun for placemats. I once covered a bathroom window with red Japanese Maple leaves using Elmers Glue. Magical with sun shining thru. Or you could use a variety of different leaves or flowers. Easily removed with wet sponge when you tire of it. Most of my projects are short-term 'cause I love to I love to try new arrangements.

Notecards are popular but like bookmarkers you just need a few usually. I often add dried flowers to pages of my garden journal..enjoy looking back through it.

Hope others will chime in. I myself need some new inspiration...josh

Here is a link that might be useful: Acrylic Box Frames


clipped on: 07.08.2006 at 07:35 am    last updated on: 07.08.2006 at 07:35 am

Best sealant for pressed flower greeting cards

posted by: yukisammy on 05.12.2004 at 02:24 pm in Dried & Pressed Flowers Forum

I am very new to pressed flowers. Currently I just use the old-fashioned "between telephone books" style of pressing. I would like to use the pressed flowers on my greeting cards. What is the best sealant to use so that the flowers don't disintegrate in the mail?

I tried laminating, and found it looked too unnatural. I also tried spraying with an acrylic sealer, but the acrylic spray caused the petals of the pansies to wrinkle. Also, the smell was somewhat offensive.

Can anyone make a recommendation for sealers?
Thanks in advance...


Good thread with info on sealing, mogepoging, glitter, etc.
clipped on: 07.08.2006 at 07:27 am    last updated on: 07.08.2006 at 07:28 am

Summer Solstice Swap 6/24 in Orlando

posted by: solstice98 on 05.13.2006 at 10:14 am in Florida Gardening Forum

Starting a new thread since the other is close to the limit of postings. Follow the link below to get to the original so you can see the plant lists already posted.

See you all there!

Plants I'll either have started or that will be available for cuttings:
a couple angel wing begonias (and I'm always in the market for more)
yellow brug
cat's whiskers
mysore banana
cigar plant
firecracker plant
cape daisy
butterfly weed
Coral vine
bulbine (yellow)
night blooming cereus (white)
porterweed (red, blue, purple)
probably more...

Here is a link that might be useful: Summer Solstice Swap (first 100 postings)


Swap thread #2
clipped on: 06.05.2006 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2006 at 07:48 pm

Summer Solstice Swap? (Orlando area)

posted by: solstice98 on 04.28.2006 at 07:12 am in Florida Gardening Forum

I'm thinking of setting up a plant swap at my house in late June. I live on the east side of Orlando - just south of Waterford Lakes. Before I get too far into planning, I would like to know if anyone is interested.
What do you think?
And would a Saturday or a Sunday be better? I always prefer a Saturday swap so I can plant stuff on Sunday, but I'll go with the group preference on this.


Start of the Swap thread.
clipped on: 06.05.2006 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2006 at 07:47 pm

RE: Metal Plant Tags...?? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: butterflygardener on 06.05.2006 at 09:48 am in Florida Gardening Forum

They look great here is the link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paw Paw Everlast Label Company


Style A looks just right!
clipped on: 06.05.2006 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2006 at 07:46 pm