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RE: Aura Paints still smells one week after painting (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: moonshadow on 05.30.2009 at 07:26 am in Paint Forum

Run to Lowe's and grab a couple containers of Natural Magic or Citrus Magic. It's a gel odor absorber, it's near the cleaning products aisle in my Lowes. Ace sometimes has it too. Independent paint stores on occasion. But Lowes has a lot. One tub would be enough in the room, but since it's a nursery I'd go two. Set them in the room near where air circulates (just inside doorway on floor, register, etc.). It sucks odors out of the air but doesn't leave a masking scent. (Which is why I like it, candles and perfumes, etc. are often headache triggers for me, Nat Magic doesn't bother me in the least.)

Takes about a week to get it all (I know, the paint smell could be gone in a week), but can pretty much guarantee you won't smell it if the magic tubs are in there. I use them everywhere, often after painting a rental that I want to show quickly.

NOTES:

smell absorbers
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 11:02 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 11:02 am

RE: Best Ceiling Paint for Farrow & Ball, BM Aura (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pirula on 04.01.2010 at 01:22 pm in Paint Forum

And the Estate Emulsion is flat. You don't need the DEAD flat. In fact, F&B warns (or used to warn) people to test the dead flat to see if they like it.

I prefer a soft sheen to my ceiling to bounce off natural light. Mine are in the Modern Emulsion in Pointing. If you want flat, go with the Estate Emulsion. Pointing is not only one of F&B's best whites, it's one of the best whites bar none.

NOTES:

ceiling paint
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 10:58 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 10:59 am

RE: Disappointing info re FPE Eco paint after talk w/ Emmett (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: mindstorm on 03.09.2010 at 09:38 pm in Paint Forum

Farrow & Ball water based eggshell. Strong White (I think) if you want uber pure white, or Pointing,

yikes, no. F&B Strong White is a tinted white - a sort of grey-green. F&B "All White" is the pure white.

Pointing is a soft creamy- warm white (and very nice). Wimborne White is sort of warm-white in between the two.

NOTES:

F&B paint
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:29 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:29 am

RE: Disappointing info re FPE Eco paint after talk w/ Emmett (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: pirula on 03.05.2010 at 08:27 am in Paint Forum

I think the link I posted is pretty clear that it's low VOC period. The easiest way to compare is to look up the VOCs of any other paint you are considering. It clearly states that it is (in addition to 90% less voc's than conventional oil) eco friendly and low VOC. Now, whether that is misleading or not, I don't know. I just do know, that the smell factor anyway, was way lower with this paint than with C2 or with Pratt & Lambert or with Benjamin Moore, in my experience. The only paint I used that had less odor, was Farrow & Ball, water based. You can look up the VOC content of paints online.

Yes, my cabinets are cream, but a very light cream. If they had yellowed MORE, trust me, I'd notice it. And they have not. If you are really concerned about your pure white yellowing (I would be) then by all means skip the FPE ECO and go with Farrow & Ball water based eggshell. Strong White (I think) if you want uber pure white, or Pointing, if you want a really soft, exquisite, warm white. Use the water based eggshell and you will have zero yellowing, excellent durability, and beautiful white cabinets that won't yellow.

NOTES:

white color
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:24 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:24 am

RE: Using FPE on kitchen cabinets-Does it require a professional (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: faron79 on 01.01.2010 at 03:44 pm in Paint Forum

This may sound weird...?!?!?

The idea behind the "kiddie-pools" is a technique to keep dust down when doing fine finish-painting!
* I learned of it when visiting with the FPE people, and watching their info-DVD.
* When doing "critical-appearance" projects, use a couple kiddie-pools with 1" of water placed in your workroom.
* The day b4 priming/painting, turn on the fan. This circulates the air in the room. The airborne dust eventually "preciptates out" onto the water surface. Surface-area is important...NOT water DEPTH!
* Cover incoming vents with filter-cloth, sprayed with Filter-charger.
* A spare bedroom works great for doing the Cab-doors. Vacuum/Sweep/Cover flooring. Change furnace filter. Then let the air-cleaning begin!
* Use a top-end brush, such as a Good Corona, Purdy, or Wooster.
* DON'T use Floetrol. Kinda old-school, and CAN affect color in lights/whites. Choose XIM's Latex X-tender if needed...but it's usually not.
* One of the keys is using Looooonnng smooth strokes. Don't use "feather-dusting"-type strokes when applying paint.
* The Face-frames don't need such precision since they're locked in place! Use the same careful "long-strokes" however.
* Don't overwork the paint...if you're brushing more than 6 times thru the same area, it's too much.
* Choose how smooth you want your door-surface. You can use FPE's Grain-filling Putty/primer, but this involves more sanding prep. Results would be spectacular though!!

Faron

NOTES:

bursh to use
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:21 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:21 am

RE: Painting kitchen cabinets--oil vs latex--VOCs concern (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: texasjg on 11.09.2009 at 11:21 pm in Paint Forum

I'd be just as concerned about painting oak cabinets and which paint will work the best on those specifically. I want to paint my oakies, too, but the more I read about the prep involved and quality of paint so you don't have the oak grain showing through, the more gun-shy I am.

I like low VOC, too. Lots of differing opinions on oil vs. water soluble for cabinets. Funcolors recommended finepaintsofeurope.com (I think that is the url), and that is super high quality stuff. They have water soluble/low VOC paint that is supposedly suitable for cabinets, and also primer putty that you can use to fill the oak grain and sand to a "glass" smooth finish. I haven't used it myself, just read about it in other posts around the web during my research and visited the site today. I'm sure the regular posters and pros will have better experience based advice than I do, but I thought I'd share what I am going through right now about oak cabinets. Please come back after your paint job and post pix.

NOTES:

Low VOC
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:13 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:14 am

RE: Painting kitchen cabinets--oil vs latex--VOCs concern (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: faron79 on 11.10.2009 at 01:56 am in Paint Forum

You've maybe read my "babblings" about FPE.
Jeez it's some sweet stuff!

I've only been lucky enough to do some sample-boards, using some of their products...but, WOW.

Their ECO series paint, in Satin or Gloss(Brilliant) would be a stunner on your cabs. Grain-filling is always optional; but, if done, can be a show-piece!
The ECO flows on like silk....BUT...minimize stroking, and leave it alone for ONE DAY, then apply 2nd coat. Sand 1st coat lightly with 220, remove all dusts, and apply 2nd coat.

Suggestion:
Use one of FPE's "wet floor" techniques!
>>> This may sound crazy, but get out the small plastic kiddy-pool, OR TWO!!, put 1" of water in it...in the room you're painting the cabs.
>>> The key is...NOT depth of water...but the SURFACE-AREA of it. Use 2 or 3 pools if it's a big area.
>>> Have a couple small fans blowing opposite each other, to make a "vortex" in the room.
>>> After a day of this, lots of airborne dust will have precipitated out of the air & into the pool!!!
>>> You can also add a furnace-filter in the room, and spray it with "filter-charger". This helps filters grab dust by increasing static-attraction.
>>> There'll be much less dust in the air now!

Faron

NOTES:

dust removal for paints
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:13 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:13 am

RE: B? ??? Bathroom Paint to Prevent Mold/Mildew (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mtbgirl on 06.21.2010 at 02:43 am in Paint Forum

I formerly had mildew in both of my bathrooms over a year ago. I visited my local Dunn Edwards paint store (the best paint on the market, excellent coverage and durability), and told them my problem. They added a mildewcide to my latex semi-gloss paint, and I've not had a problem since. Tip: first, use bleach to kill the mold/mildew while cleaning the affected area. Then repaint. BTW, I live in California, so our paint doesn't have the optimal properties of paint available elsewhere. FYI, over the years, whenever I've hired a painting crew for the exterior or interior, they've always been impressed with Dunn Edwards paint, if they weren't familiar with it before. My architect recommended the paint, and I compared it with a host of other paints. The others pale in comparison.

NOTES:

mildew for bathroom
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:07 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:08 am

RE: adhesion problems to old oil-based enamel surfaces (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paintguy on 06.17.2009 at 09:28 am in Paint Forum

You are never going to get any real serious adhesion until you accomplish two things. One is clean and the other is dull. You have the clean part down but your trim is still shiny. Shiny means slick and paint won't ever stick to slick like it will stick to dull. When you dull a shiny surface, you are giving your primer/paint tooth. Wet sanding doesn't work and I don't believe in deglosser. The reason I don't believe in deglosser is because sanding is easy. You get yourself a few sanding blocks, throw on a dust mask and get after it. Before you know it, it's over and there isn't that much dust made from sanding painted trim. It's a step that really shouldn't be skipped IMO...your problem is evidence of that. The primers that are going to stick the best are bonding primers so be sure you select the right ones. Oil based primer are probably the last primers I would use. BIN would be my first choice and if you don't want to use that then there are a ton of high quality acrylic bonding primers available.

NOTES:

types of primers
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:06 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:06 am

RE: favorite dunn edwards paint colors? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: htnspz on 10.06.2009 at 02:29 am in Paint Forum

Cochise is a beautiful beige

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dun neutrals
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:03 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:06 am

What brush to use with Ace Cabinet paint???

posted by: brystersmom on 09.12.2009 at 09:55 pm in Paint Forum

I'm just getting started with these forums...so much great info! I need a bit of help with paint brushes. I have started to paint all of the ugly 1980's golden oak trim, doors, built-ins, etc in my home with the Ace Cabinet Door and Trim paint. I really like it, but I'm having issues with visable brush strokes. The paint manager at my local Ace suggested the Wooster nylon/poly blend brush. I bought one, but I'm not liking it. I would love any assistance/advice on the best brush to use with the Ace paint. Faron, if you're out there, can you help? You seem to be the expert when it comes to the Ace paint.

Thanks :)

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types of brush
clipped on: 09.12.2010 at 07:00 am    last updated on: 09.12.2010 at 07:01 am