Clippings by sleevepresto

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RE: vac pan or other central vac accessories in kitchen? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: reshal on 09.25.2009 at 12:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have one in my kitchen. During the planning stages I thought I would put it under the kitchen sink also, but then realized I always have a rug there which would block access. The vac pan needs a clear area in front of it so the dirt can be sucked in off your floor.

My system is Hide A's great and the hose retracts right into the wall so I don't lug around or store the hoses! (I'm not affiliated in any way, I just love the system!)

Here is a link that might be useful: Hide A Hose website


clipped on: 09.27.2009 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2009 at 10:42 pm

Granites by Price Range

posted by: lisaslists2000 on 09.24.2009 at 02:16 am in Kitchens Forum

I had not found this site before, and thought I'd share in case you guys hadn't either. It's nice to see relative prices of granite. I assume these pricing levels are accurate, and there are a LOT of different granites to compare anyway!

Here is a link that might be useful: Lots of Granites by Price Range


clipped on: 09.25.2009 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 09.25.2009 at 12:10 am

RE: Food disposal unit recommendations (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: plllog on 09.24.2009 at 12:16 am in Kitchens Forum

The info I have is about half a year old, but the story was that Viking had designed the very best disposal ever and had it made for them by Insinkerator, then Insinkerator, having the specs, designed their own version that works equally well but has a less beautiful (and slightly smaller) housing.


clipped on: 09.24.2009 at 09:23 am    last updated on: 09.24.2009 at 09:23 am

RE: Help Choosing Kitchen Faucet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: krissd on 05.02.2009 at 09:28 pm in Kitchens Forum


This is the Delta Allora. It has a nice solid 'button' that switches to spray or stream, and stays on either one you choose without holding the button down. It also remains on whichever function each time you turn it off and back on.

It's a great pull down with magnetic docking and a solid hose. I don't know about the guarantees, or wear, but I tried quite a few faucets out and liked the way this one felt and handled. As you can see, I have the black granite sink with the satin nickel finish faucet. Good luck! --Sorry my pic is so big, I'm still trying to figure out photobucket.


allora faucet in brushed nickel
clipped on: 09.23.2009 at 01:22 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2009 at 01:23 pm

RE: Black granites that look like soapstone (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: holligator on 09.06.2009 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think that antique Nordic Black does by far the best job of the granites I've seen that are supposed to have the look of soapstone. One of my all-time favorite GW kitchens used it (see link below), and I think it's simply gorgeous. Of course, everything about that kitchen is spectacular!

Here is a link that might be useful: susanandmarkw's kitchen


look at link - black granite
clipped on: 09.06.2009 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2009 at 03:34 pm

Just finished our Backsplash, thank you for your help.

posted by: nursetammi on 08.19.2009 at 05:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finished our backsplash last night. I ended up going with the Scabos tumbled 3x6 Travertine. I also decided to just frame the plaque in bronze rather than using 4x4 tiles. I was struggling over how to frame the plaque when all along I just wanted a frame. Sometimes the answer is so simple, you don't even think of it (ha ha). Thanks for all your help and suggestions. We are almost ready for the finished kitchen site :) We are just short of 6 months with this remodel.






clipped on: 08.21.2009 at 05:53 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2009 at 08:39 am

bar sink w/pull out spray

posted by: pinch_me on 08.23.2009 at 04:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Since my window is so close to the counter, I wondered if I could use a bar faucet. They would be smaller and that's what I'm looking for. Is there any reason not to? Doing a quick search,I found them; one here


clipped on: 08.23.2009 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2009 at 05:37 pm

RE: Recessed Niche above cooktop (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.23.2009 at 08:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Now that you're convinced, time to tease you back again!! :-)


It's not one of mine-- a young lady up in Washington State put this one together, but it's got to be some of the best work I've ever seen, especially being that it was made on site, and not bought and installed.


clipped on: 08.23.2009 at 12:34 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2009 at 12:34 pm

Do you have Hansgrohe faucet in Steel Optic?

posted by: beekeeperswife on 06.20.2009 at 09:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

The faucet drama just keeps on going...I think I really like the Hangsgrohe Allegro, pull down faucet & pot filler in Steel Optic. I read one post that mentioned the color of the steel was "darker" than other stainless steels. If you have this faucet, can you tell me how it looks with a stainless sink? I also would like to know if it has a "yellow" undertone to it. The Delta ss faucets seem to not be the right color for me. (I love the Grohe finish but due to the recent realization of how expensive the vent hood is going to be, I think we aren't even going down that road!)

Also, if you have it, how is the quality? Is the faucet too tall? It says it measures 16" high!

Thanks so much!


clipped on: 08.19.2009 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2009 at 11:25 pm

Instructions for Making ''Continuous'' Supply Soap Dispenser

posted by: drjoann on 08.18.2009 at 05:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

We recently put in new granite and added a countertop soap dispenser. At the end of the day, the bottle that came with the soap dispenser wouldn't fit with all of the other things in the way. Our solution was to use an ordinary large bottle of Dawn dish liquid connected to the soap dispenser. We found that a Softsoap hand soap pump fit the dawn bottle and was the easiest way to get a properly sized check valve that worked with viscous dish liquid.

Anyway, here is a link to step-by-step instructions with pictures. Hope they are of some use to someone.

Jo Ann

P.S. I know that there is a commercial product out there that performs this function, but I have never owned one or even seen one, so this is not a copy of that product.

P.P.S. This is the 1st time I've used Google Docs, so I hope the link works.

Here is a link that might be useful: Instructions for Making a


clipped on: 08.19.2009 at 08:17 am    last updated on: 08.19.2009 at 08:17 am

RE: New Construction and NO Eat in Kitchen? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 08.14.2009 at 10:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

The inspiration pic posted has a couple of particular, the location of the cooktop and DW...neither are positioned well. I bit my tongue before, but I feel I need to speak out now since this pic is being used again.

The DW appears to be right next to the corner...which means it cannot be open while someone is working at the sink...whether prepping or cleaning up. It's especially an issue for cleaning up.

The second issue is the cooktop. There is not enough counter b/w the seats and the back of the cooktop...if anyone sits there while something's on one or more of the burners, they're going to be subjected to splattering grease, steam from boiling pots, smoke, mega-odors, etc. Additionally, there really should be more space b/w the cooktop and the side edge as well. If you absolutely must have a cooktop in a peninsula or island, then plan for at least 24" around it...both sides & behind...regardless of the presence (or lack) of seating. (Also think about trying to read the paper or do work or homework in that area...even w/o flames it can be dangerous. And then there's the "reaching across" issue...when a child shows you a piece of his/her artwork or someone wants to share an article w/you...It's OK if nothing is cooking & the cooktop is cold, but if there's anything cooking or the cooktop is still hot, it becomes a problem.)

Then there's the lack of range/vent hood...making it even worse for people sitting at the peninsula.

Lastly, the presence of the cooktop (or sink) in the peninsula robs you of the nice expanse of workspace that peninsulas & islands offer.

Things to remember about seating:

  • Each seat needs 24" (or 2' ) of linear space (e.g., a 6' run can seat 3 people)
  • For counter-height seating (36" high):
    • With no cooktop or sink, there should be a 15" overhang/clear leg space
    • With a sink, there should be at least an 18" overhang (to minimize splashing)
    • With a cooktop, there should be at least a 24" overhang (for safety reasons)

  • For bar-height seating (42" high):
    • With no cooktop or sink, there should be a 12" overhang/clear leg space
    • With a sink, there should be at least an 18" overhang (to minimize splashing)
    • With a cooktop, there should be at least a 24" overhang (for safety reasons)

  • For table-height seating (30" high):
    • With no cooktop or sink, there should be an 18" overhang/clear leg space
    • With a sink, there should be at least an 18" overhang (to minimize splashing)
    • With a cooktop, there should be at least a 24" overhang (for safety reasons)

BTW...raised counters (bar-height like behind sink in pic) don't hide much... The only people they hide dirty dishes, etc. from are those whose eyes are below the level of the counter. If even a short adult is standing or walking by (or anyone sitting at the counter), they will see the dirty dishes just fine. A deep sink works better to hide dishes. Bar-height seating is difficult for young children and older people to get in/out of. Instead, keep it all one level and have an expanse of work room available.

The wall is wasted in that pic...if it's exterior it would be the best place for the could easily be vented to the outside, it would be protected from traffic in & out of the kitchen, and there are very few logistical safety issues b/c there would be no seating behind it and no aisle on either side.

Yes, there are some here who don't think there's a problem w/small safety margins or seating close to a cooktop or range, but I have to respectfully (and strongly) disagree...and I think common sense is on my side.

[OK, off my soapbox!]


clipped on: 08.18.2009 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 08.18.2009 at 08:43 am

My new kitchen is RUINED!

posted by: ideamom on 08.15.2009 at 07:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finished our kitchen remodel about 1 month ago. Went on vacation and came home to a flooded home. The water hose that leads to the faucet came loose. Hubby said he installed the one that came with the price pfister faucet, but really wanted to upgrade it to the steel kind but was in a hurry to get the faucet hooked up for me. Anyway, we were gone for 10 days so have no idea how long the water was spraying everywhere. We do know we had about 3-4 inches of water in 7 rooms. Thank God that we have homeowner's insurance!! The adjuster & contractor figured that there is about $17,000 worth of damage...most being in our kitchen. We have to find a furnished rental to move out for 6-8 weeks while the repairs are being made. Lots of drywall damaged! Finding a rental has been tough because many do not accept pets and we have a dog & a cat.
So if you all are leaving for an extended period of time...turn the main water off to your home!! We normally do, but this time we forgot. Also use the steel hoses on your faucet connections not the plastic!!! We went to Lowe's to day to but the steel hose connections for the hot & cold water and it was only $ if we would have spend just $8...we wouldn't have $17,000 worth of damage!
Below is a link to how my kitchen looked. It makes me sick that this happened. I only got to enjoy my new kitchen about 1 month then this happened. UGH!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchen


clipped on: 08.16.2009 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2009 at 12:52 pm

RE: 30' sink base, is a D or rectangular sink better? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: buehl on 06.20.2009 at 04:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm here! WritersBlock is Ticor sink (S405D) is a double bowl w/the large bowl close to the same width as Pheebers's.

My sink's actual dimensions are:
* Overall Dimensions: 35-1/8" x 20-7/8" [Fits in a 36" sink base]
* Interior of Large Bowl: 21-3/8" x 18-3/4" x 9"
* Interior of Small Bowl: 10-1/2" x 15-7/8" x 7"

Pheebers's sink's dimensions are:
* Overall Dimensions: 23-11/16" x 21"
* Interior of Bowl: 21-7/16" x 13-15/16" x 9"

As you can see, the width of my sink's large bowl is the same (~21-1/2"), but it's approx 4-3/4" deeper than Pheebers's (as in distance from front-to-back). That could make a difference.

If your sink base is 30" wide, then you should be able to fit any sink up to 29" wide (overall). The depth is an issue, but the majority of sinks out there are designed for a standard 24" deep sink base, so most should fit. The issue you have to be aware of, of course, is what's behind your sink. Since you have a window w/a sill, then you've just reduced your working depth by the depth of the sill. But, if you put your faucet on the side like in the Houzer picture, you've made that space in the back close to a non-issue b/c you've just "added back" a couple of inches or more.

Have you considered a Ticor sink from Galaxy Tool Supply? They have a "D" sink with interior bowl dimensions of 21" x 19" very close to same the size as my sink's large bowl (see link below). Mount the faucet on the side and I think you'll be fine. (BTW...Ticor sinks are not only reasonably priced, but they also come with the strainer and a custom-fit sink grid...all included in the price. Oh, and GTS also has eBay store and several people have gotten the same sinks on their eBay store for up to 50% off the price the state on their regular site.)

Here are a couple of pics of the large bowl of mine "in action":

With my largest cookie sheet (19" x 12"):

Here is a link that might be useful: Ticor S405 single-bowl sink


clipped on: 08.15.2009 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 08.15.2009 at 12:16 am

Fabrication Prices

posted by: sleevepresto on 08.12.2009 at 08:29 am in Kitchens Forum

We will be buying the granite ourselves (2 to 3 slabs depending on layout) and paying for delivery to the fabricator ourselves. Does anyone know what a per footage amount it would - or should be - to fabricate? The granite isn't a delicate piece requiring any special install work. I know that edges run up the cost, but I'm just looking for a benchmark cost - fabrication with standard edge. We're going to be looking at a couple of places to do the fabrication and I want to know what is considered normal/expected pricing vs. high. The cost of the granite shouldn't matter (I think) since that will be over and done with since we're paying that separately.


clipped on: 08.12.2009 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2009 at 09:54 pm