Clippings by simoneb

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: how to clean drip mark off stainless dishwasher? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: lavender2008 on 03.08.2008 at 11:12 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I have read all the postings with great interest - I have the same drip marks (could be any liquid) on my Bosch dishwasher. I was panicking because I rubbed at them with a stainless steel specialty cleaner and lightened a large spot over the marks - but the drip marks were still there. Needless to say, the posting about stainless steel tarnishing suddenly made sense, as did the baking soda and vinegar & water cleaning method. I have just spent 10 vigorous minutes using those tips and my dishwasher looks fantastic. No more drip marks and the tarnish is removed so that my dishwasher looks new. I think there was a build up of all those stainless cleaning products. I would have used anything but I love that it is nice, inexpensive and environmentally friendly cleaning products that did the trick!


clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 11:20 am

RE: how to clean drip mark off stainless dishwasher? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: debnj3 on 01.05.2008 at 11:55 am in Cleaning Tips Forum

I also have a bosch and have the same problem. A friend of mine raved about hers and so I went with it. She showed me how easily hers cleans up and even brought her cleaner over to my home and it did not remove the water streaks. We now believe that bosch changed the type of SS on their dishwashers. I can't tell you how this bothers me. I would never get a bosch again . There is a way to remove the streaks. I sprinkle Bon Ami on a damp dish cloth and rub in a circular motion. I rinse it off and follow up with SS magic. It works great but is a pita to do. I hope this helps.


clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 11:17 am    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 11:17 am

RE: Hard time keeping Stainless steel Appliances clean? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: bonbontom on 01.31.2007 at 11:31 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I can tell you what to steer clear of for sure: Windex - My appliance salesman friend showed me what it did after a while to one of his fridges - bad iridescent streaks. Orange Fantastik says it's great for SS - don't believe it. Magic Eraser will actually buff out the factory brushed texture. WD-40 and Baby Oil would be good if you can stand the oiliness and strong smells. Pledge SS Wipes are an absolute joke. Weiman SS cleaner (Wal-Mart) is very mediocre. It takes major elbow grease to get it looking good and then streaks show up a few days later in your wipe pattern - go figure. There is a decent one I got a sample of free with my fridge. It's called "Cleaning Polish and Conditioner for SS" It is part #31960804 available at this # 1-800-843-0304. The BEST I've seen is the one mentioned very first in these posts - ZEP. Once you've had Zep, you're spoiled forever. It's non-greasy and cuts grease, wipes away in a flash, resisits smudges, and smells great. Only problem is that I can't find it anymore. Home Depot is where I got it, but they've stocked a different Zep than the one I knew. They are difficult to differentiate. Both aerosols are for stainless steel, but the green-lettered one is the fabulous one. The silver-lettered can is a garage-smelling oily formula that leaves a stubborn overspray on the floor. Anyone who knows where to get green Zep PLEASE post!


clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 11:09 am

RE: How often do you wipe down your cabinets (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 10.17.2008 at 09:00 am in Kitchens Forum

First of all, a good ventilation system should be in place to prevent dirty greasy buildup on cabinets so that everyday maintainence is lessened.

Every day maintainence consists of wiping up any spills as soon as possible and removing any dried on spills with the least abrasive method possible, starting with plain water and a microfiber cloth. If that won't do it, move on to a bit of dish soap and water and a microfiber cloth. NEVER use anything containing bleach or ammonia on a regular basis on your cabinets.

Cabinets should be "dry dusted" at least once a week, especially around any detailing. A long handled fluffy duster can get those tall ones that you can't reach without a ladder. Once a month, they should be "damp dusted" with a damp cloth, including those hard to reach ones at the top. You only need use soap and water weekly if your ventilation system isn't up to par and there is a greasy accumulation on the cabinets. Once every six months to a year, use a bit of soapy water instead of plain water, and use the softest bristle brush that you can find to really get into those details like awkward corners and moldings. Use a microfiber cloth to dry immediately. You don't ever want to get them dripping wet.

This schedule isn't onerous for most people, and it keeps any gritty dust from accumulating. It's the grease plus dust that damages cabinets over time, so that's why ventilation is so important. Even a great ventilation system won't capture everything though, and that's why once every six months to a year they need actual soap and water.


clipped on: 10.17.2008 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 10.17.2008 at 09:35 am

RE: Shelf Paper / Shelf Liner Should I use it? Are you? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mitchdesj on 10.10.2008 at 07:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I am using Contact brand non adhesive ribbed vinyl , it's clear plastic, it says Simple Elegance on the roll; it muffles the sound when you put something down and I've had drops of soy sauce, oil, etc... sit on the shelves and stain. Also sometimes the dishes you are storing have some water on it from the dishwasher, the shelf paper does protects your wood interiors but it's not absolutely essential.

You could put some down only in the places where you'll have bottled liquids stored, such as under the sink and certain cupboard doors where you'll have oils and such.


clipped on: 10.10.2008 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 10.10.2008 at 10:19 am

RE: white granite (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: alku05 on 06.23.2007 at 08:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our Andromeda White granite went in a couple weeks ago and we love it! We're still waiting on our backsplash and the punch list, but here's a sneak peak:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 09.30.2008 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2008 at 10:12 pm

RE: Cost Comparison: Soapstone vs. Granite (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sleepydrj on 01.29.2008 at 12:26 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a tricky comparison. In our case, soapstone was going for around $30 per square foot. That is just for the material, and doesn't include the fabrication. Granites go from the teens up to the hundreds for the material. Also remember that you typically buy the whole slab, so the actual cost per area installed depends on how efficiently you can use that slab! Also keep in mind that the fabrication and installation can run much more than the cost of the stone material.

We did look very closely at Virginia Mist granite, which is a nice grey with some white material swirling through. Many people think this is very similar to soapstone in appearance. The Virginia mist can be prepared with a honed, or an antiqued finish that make it more appropriate for an older home (non-shiny look). It has the advantage of being much harder, and so the dings and scratches that will occur with soapstone would be avoided. On top of those attributes, the Virginia mist is very popular in our area, and our fabricator uses it so much that he could essentially sell us based on the actual amount of square feet needed! So the Virginia mist would only be around $14 per square foot times the actual number of square feet needed.

I was really happy that my DH loved the soapstone enough that we took the plunge. The soapstone we found was just so much more beautiful than the inconspicuous virginia mist.

I just thought I'd mention the various factors that go into the decision - there are lots of considerations.


clipped on: 09.24.2008 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2008 at 06:48 pm

RE: What honed black granite do you have and LOVE? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: deee on 09.07.2008 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's my honed Virginia mist granite. It's also known as jet mist. I'm really happy with it.

honed Virginia mist


clipped on: 09.24.2008 at 05:05 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2008 at 05:06 pm

RE: ab antiqued or cambrian satin--help please (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: positano on 09.19.2008 at 07:33 am in Kitchens Forum

Right now I'm trying to decide between AB leather and Cambrian black antique. I love the AB leather, seems much better than honed for fingerprints. But I feel like I still have to fuss with it a little to get it to look good. The Cambrian seems like it will be bulletproof and not show prints. It does have a slight texture in it, I tried writing on it and its fine. The bumps don't show thru the paper.
If you do a search for cambrian or honed a lot comes up. I have not found anyone with AB leather or satin though.

Here are a few pics from my files. All people here on GW. The first three photos are Cambrian Black ant. The last one is Nordic Black Antiqued from Jen 4269(traditional cream and black kitchen)which I love!

It is such a hard decision. Everyone seems to love the Cambrian, so that's what I'm leaning to now.

brosamj camb blk ant
lanstan ant cam blkjen4228


clipped on: 09.24.2008 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2008 at 04:51 pm

RE: Ceasarstone--what has been your experience? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: smarge on 08.11.2008 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm sorry to monopolize this thread, but I realized I didn't answer some questions.

I don't notice fingerprints or smudges at all. I have the Raven at my kitchen desk and can not get a smudge or fingerprint to show up, even after licking my finger and smearing it around. My only cleaning issues are around the stove after frying something, and it is SUCH easy cleanup! Just a wipe with a wet cloth most of the time and when I need a squirt of Lysol Kitchen cleaner and it seems a bit smeary, all I do is wipe dry with a paper towel and the mess is gone!

I think it would not be this way with honed, although I have no experience with it.

FWIW, several friends who have asked about my countertop material have been surprised when I've told them my Raven countertops are Caesarstone and not a "real" stone! It really looks very good; one of the best I've seen.


clipped on: 08.12.2008 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 08.12.2008 at 09:39 am

RE: Ceasarstone-- what has been your experience? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: smarge on 08.11.2008 at 05:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

BTW, I should mention that none of my quartz surfaces are honed. My main purpose in buying quartz surfaces was that they are beautiful AND easy care. Adding maintenance due to honing ruled that option out for me.

FWIW, the quartz surfaces are not nearly as shiny as a polished marble or granite would be. The refection of my UC lighting in the kitchen is not as much an issue as I anticipated, and I have no regrets on not having a matte, honed surface.

Here is a pic of my counters if you are interested.


Here's a close-up



clipped on: 08.12.2008 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 08.12.2008 at 09:39 am

My finished kitchen!

posted by: greta17 on 07.05.2008 at 11:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey everyone! I've only posted here a handful of times but read tons of information to help with our kitchen. This entire house was a complete gut and redo and a year after moving back in, we finally finished the kitchen. Pretty much the only thing we had left to do was the backsplash, but you know how that goes. Anyway, I thought I'd share some pictures because I always liked seeing people's finished product. Some of the pics are a tad blurry...I was having camera issues.
Pantry and oven wall
Island top
Close up of island granite

Cabinets - custom. Painted using Cabinet Coat colored in White Dove by BM
Floors - red oak stained medium brown
Countertops - Absolute black granite on the perimeter, Monte Bello granite on the island
Backsplash - Walker Zanger Newport Seaweed subway
Door hardware - ORB cup pulls on the drawers, and ORB egg shaped knobs on the doors
Faucet - Kohler Vinnata...the smaller one (I can't remember the dimensions, but I believe its about 2" shorter than the large one)
Lighting - the 2 lights over the island are mini-chandeliers I got from Lighting Universe online
Fridge - Jenn Air counter depth
Range - 6 burner Viking
Oven - 30" GE Profile
Microwave - LG
Dishwasher - Asko

Thanks to everyone who shared their information. Overall, we are very pleased with it. There are a few things I'd do differently but they are pretty minor. If it wasn't for this site, I'm not sure it would have turned out as nice as it did.


Has ab black counters
clipped on: 08.10.2008 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2008 at 12:10 pm

RE: Anyone have Kraftmaid Cabinets in Irish Cream Glaze? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: weedyacres on 07.13.2008 at 01:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

We tried all 3 of KM's 3 off-white glazes, holding them against granite we were considering. Ultimately we went with vanilla bean. Here's a photo of half the kitchen if if it helps.


clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 09:38 am

RE: I'm FINALLY painting the cabinets (will it ever end?) (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: arlosmom on 08.07.2008 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Francy, I don't remember where this photo is from, and the color is not as buttery as yours (I love yours), but here the walls, trim and cabinets are all the same yellow. I LOVE this kitchen, but I think it might be too bland if not for that wonderful wood island...I figure it always helps to see different examples.



clipped on: 08.07.2008 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 08.07.2008 at 11:25 am

Almost There!

posted by: buehl on 06.24.2008 at 09:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I haven't posted about my kitchen for awhile for a couple of reasons...first, I was afraid I had over-posted and people would be saying. "Oh no, not her again!" Second, my camera is out of commission. Well, I borrowed my DH's business camera and took some pictures yesterday to show you the current state of my kitchen...we're getting there! (Now hopefully it's been long enough since I posted a new thread that people will be interested!)

Plumbing: PR still not done b/c of countertop issues (I will be posting a separate thread tonight or tomorrow about this asking for opinions) Also, mirror is too tall...the lights will not fit above it!!!

Electrical: Electrician was out today installing Plugmold & finishing lights. Still have to finish in-cabinet lights and install Mocketts on either side of main sink.

Granite:: A myriad of issues, not the least of which was that pieces for each countertop (at seams) were different depths and had not been feathered! They looked so surprised when they went to install…both times!!! (Did they not learn from their mistakes on the window wall?? Grrrrrr) When asked if they had checked them at the yard they said no b/c they didn't have enough room to put them next to each other…(we have this new-fangled gadget called a "ruler"!) They re-did the epoxy in the seam on the window counter so it's black and much closer to the color of the counters (they had used gray...w/AB granite????)

Here are the pictures:

Full Kitchen from DR:
Full Kitchen from DR

Full Kitchen from FR:
Full Kitchen from FR

Cooktop Wall View From DR:
Cooktop Wall from DR

Cooktop Wall view from FR:
Cooktop Wall from FR

Prep Sink:
Kohler K-3345: Undertone™ five-sided undercounter kitchen sink
Kohler K-12177: Fairfax® single-control kitchen sink faucet (pullout)
Kohler K-1894-C: Soap/lotion dispenser
Kohler K-R8801-C: Duostrainer® sink strainer
Prep Sink
(With separately purchased sink grid--"Not nearly as nice as the grids in my main sink that were included w/my Ticor sink!)

Cooktop & Hood:
PP962SMSS - GE Profile™ 36" Built-In CleanDesign Cooktop
Vent-A-Hood® SEPH18
Cooktop & VAH Closeup
GE Profile Cooktop Closeup

Warming Drawer:
PTD915SMSS - GE Profile™ 30" Warming Drawer
GE Profile Warming Drawer Closeup

MW Drawer:
KB-6025MS Sharp Microwave Drawer Oven
Sharp MW Drawer

Cabinets & Floor Tile:
Emser Vecchia Corte™Glazed Porcelain
Tile Floor with Cabinets


clipped on: 07.30.2008 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2008 at 08:34 pm

RE: Microfiber cloths (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: toile on 07.25.2008 at 03:59 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

Ok, my Hagco order came today so I will just review them.
The HSN one is due next, then I come will come and post about them.

I don't mean to sound like a micro info commerical but these things are great.
Each color has its:
own purpose
own weight
own feel
I bought the super duper sticky outdoor ones too and I think my hubby might want some of those for the lawn chairs, pool stuff, and even the cars?

They are large, heavy, and work great!
I have the green- dusting, blue- suede for mirrors/glass, yellow for all purpose, red bathrooms.
So far all of them have worked great.
No more swiffers or papertowels for me :D

I have a massive mirror thats perfectly clean for the first time ever.
And it was fast to clean with no streaks.
Im going to strap the yellow ones onto my swiffer dry dust mop and onto the wet swiffer mop also.

I used very little windex today too. Just a squirt or 2 is all thats needed.
Damp seemed to work best, not wet.

I have decided that if the HSN ones come and are of less quality, I will give them as gifts. They came in trendy color anyways and might be a cute gift for a clean freak like me :)


clipped on: 07.30.2008 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 07.30.2008 at 11:23 am

RE: Microfiber cloths (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: reeree_natural on 07.23.2008 at 08:17 am in Cleaning Tips Forum


welcome to microfiber!

I agree with microfiber! I have mainly all wood floors in my house, I use Bona products with their microfiber mop, it's a great product and also environment safe. Here is a link... they have a special right now and you can get started for 14.99!! It's a great price..I spent a lot more in ACE hardware when I bought the cleaners, mop, and microfiber pads, etc.
I also used the Hardwood Floor Refresher, loved it and now I see they came out with Bona Hardwood Floor Polish ..which I am now going to try as well ..let me know if you get it and how you like it..


Here is a link that might be useful: Bona Hardwood floor care


clipped on: 07.30.2008 at 11:21 am    last updated on: 07.30.2008 at 11:22 am

RE: Honed versus polished granite counters? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: auchmedden on 07.29.2008 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had a small peninsula of honed AB installed a few months ago because I needed a very quiet black stone to coordinate with the other counter in the kitchen. I went into it knowing that fingerprints were going to be a nightmare, but did it any way because the other blacks all had either some sparkle, or other shade which wouldn't have worked with the other counter. I took november's advice and bought some Method granite cleaner. The first couple of days, the fingerprint/water marks were worse than my worst fears! But gradually, the granite cleaner (which may have some sealer in it, I am not sure) started getting the job done. Now, I see the marks, squirt with the cleaner, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth and it looks perfect!! I was told it did not need to be sealed, so I didn't seal it.

So while I think I could have found an easier honed black stone, I had to choose this because I needed AB's uniformity. I do not regret putting it in. That's my non-expert opinion.


clipped on: 07.30.2008 at 09:24 am    last updated on: 07.30.2008 at 09:25 am

Can't Believe It's My Turn to Share a Finished Kitchen!

posted by: lleet on 06.16.2008 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

First of all, THANK YOU to everyone who posted questions and pictures and who answers questions and shared their stories. As a "mostly lurker" I benefited greatly from your conversations. I will certainly try to help others now that Ive been through it, made the mistakes, and learned the lessons.

What started out as a minor upgrade to our 1920 Tudor house turned into a major renovation, and of course the kitchen was the best/worst part of it. Were 95% there the cabinets still need so adjusting and were missing the fridge (its on a truck somewhere) but were just thrilled to be back in our house. So here it is



(Empty spot is where the fridge will go once it arrives. The panty is to the right if it, although its not in the picture.)




Thanks again for everything (especially to the marble fans who were so willing to share the good and the bad.)


clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 05:32 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 05:32 pm

RE: Tiny Master Bath Remodel Pics (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: biancap on 10.30.2007 at 11:55 am in Bathrooms Forum

donnay - the width of my vanity is 29" and the depth is 19". I'll have to check the measurements of the shower stall and toilet area.

monicakm - the woven shade is by M & B and is is the Bandar Gold. M & B is the budget brand for Hunter Douglas.


clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 10:09 am

My DIY pics

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.02.2008 at 10:05 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I started the upstairs bath in my house in March, I finished this weekend. This portion of the house dates to 1905. I used chrome and white for the classic look, added the blue from an inspiration pic I saw on another website; I love cobalt blue anyway.
I moved everything around a little, the tub 3" over, the toilet 6" closer to the back wall (it was way out there), and the sink back into the arched alcove-- that space came from a deleted back stair hall, which is becoming a walk-in closet.

Shower valve


Who thinks should paint the refinished wood window trim white? I stripped it years ago, but now I have my doubts; The door trim is still painted white, and I'll have to make them match either way.


clipped on: 07.25.2008 at 09:01 am    last updated on: 07.25.2008 at 09:01 am

RE: Silgranit and light granite? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: neesie on 06.02.2008 at 07:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have white appliances and a light colored granite; I wanted a silgranit and chose Biscuit over white because it looked better next to the granite. I took my granite sample to the plumbing specialty shop to compare.


The biscuit is an off-white, maybe you can compare it to the white vase. HTH. If you'd like to see a wide shot I can do that too.


clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 09:29 am

RE: Sink Decision (stainless or Silgranit) (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: inkycrab on 06.27.2008 at 11:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Writersblock here is is my sink installed. Ignore the crooked faucet - it wasn't installed at the time.

Charlikin - that depth of the sink is fine for me. If you get a high faucet and deep sink you get splashes. Also, if you're short like I am, the deep sinks equal backpain.

Sauceyc - my kitchen designer has the white and she loves it. She's had it for a year now and no problems.



clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 09:28 am

RE: Sink Decision (stainless or Silgranit) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boxiebabe on 06.25.2008 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Silgranit! We have the Blanco with the smaller sink on one side (and garbage disposer), and larger deep sink on the other. We LOVE it! They seem to be less expensive than many sinks - but they are tough as nails!

Here's a link to the one that we have (before the plumbing and backsplash was installed)

Emerald Pearl Granite">


clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 09:27 am

RE: Sink Decision (stainless or Silgranit) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: chrissiemw on 06.25.2008 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Another vote for silgranit and in Anthracite. I have one and LOVE's my favorite feature of our new kitchen and like others have said, it does get noticed! It is a dream compared to my old stainless sinks.

We have ginger glaze cabs (maple) and our oven has a lot of black in it as does our granite which is why I chose the black. LOVE it!

Here's 2 pics:



clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 09:27 am

RE:Details (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mary_in_nc on 07.17.2008 at 01:49 pm in Kitchens Forum


Cabinets: Medallion Santa Cruz maple with Divinity Finish
Range: 30" Wolf Duel Fuel
Refrigerator: 30" Liebherr
MW: 24" Sharp Drawer MW
DW: Miele Optima
Sink: 30" Shaws Farm sink
Faucets: Perrin and Rowe
Hardware- Oiled Rub Bronze:
Small Latches: Rejuvination
Cup pulls: Deltana Elongated Shell Handle Pull from
Knobs: Restoration Hardware
Countertop: Soapstone- Green Mounain Original P.A.


clipped on: 07.18.2008 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2008 at 02:27 pm

95% complete DIY modern vintage bathroom

posted by: na_praha on 07.11.2008 at 04:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have been a fanatical lurker and only very occasional poster on this board while we've been conceiving and working on a new master bath for the recently expanded second floor of our 1915 Craftsman house. This was 100% DIY, mostly by my husband who learned plumbing and electrical skills on the job. We were on an incredibly strict budget (under $5K for everything, including infrastructure), so probably more than we'd like of the details came from big box stores. The bulk of the finish work was completed between the second week of June and this past weekend. We owe a huge debt to Bill V and Mongo, as well as Mrs. Limestone, Sombreui Sombreuil Mongrel, and others who did such an exceptional job with their vintage baths.

We still have to add door trim, install our stained glass transoms, install our towel bars and a marble bath shelf, and most significantly, add the shower riser and ring to the clawfoot, but it's useable and looking good, so I can't wait to post the results.

Here's a sneak preview. For more, go our Flickr site
2008; Portland; Bathroom Month 003

Vanities - Pegasus
Medicine Cabinets - Lowe's
Sconces - Commercial Electric via Home Depot
Faucets - Price Pfister Ashfield via Ebay
Toilet - Kohler Cimarron high efficiency with Pegasus seat
Tub - salvage via Craigslist. I spray-painted the feet espresso
Tub filler and shower - EBay
Floor - Goia marble tile ($2.49 SF from HD)
Wall paint - Dutch Boy Hyrdrangea Bloom
Trim - Behr Creamy White
Linen cabinets and marble accessories - Target

The curtain is a temporary fix, we've ordered top-down, bottom-up cellular shades in a linen color for the window.

Here is a link that might be useful: More photos on Flickr.


clipped on: 07.18.2008 at 09:23 am    last updated on: 07.18.2008 at 09:23 am

Finsihed Creamy White and Soapstone Kitchen - Pics!

posted by: mary_in_nc on 07.17.2008 at 01:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally the last details of the kitchen are finished and I feel I can finally post pictures! So many thanks to all of you on GW, especially you stoners!






Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Kitchen Pictures


clipped on: 07.17.2008 at 01:39 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2008 at 01:39 pm

Finished Glazed White Kitchen

posted by: buffettgirl on 03.08.2008 at 07:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yay, I can finally say we're done!
To see all the photos:
Buffettgirls's Album

These are the "lived in" look. :)


The list:

* Amana Fridge ASD2625KES
* GE Cafe Dual Fuel Range
* GE Cafe dishwasher
* Grothouse Lumber walnut island top
* Hudson Valley Haverhill pendants
* InSinkErator Evolution Excel
* Kemper Cabinets: Northrope Style in Amaretto Creme Glaze
* Lauzon prefinished wood floor in Black Walnut
* Silver Pearl/ Black Pearl granite
* Valspar Redstone Dining Room gold paint
* Island stools from the Mill Store
* Knobs from BetsyFieldDesign/ dark gunmetal color


clipped on: 07.11.2008 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2008 at 05:04 pm

Traditional Classic Styled White kitchen- 99% finished!

posted by: muranogirl on 01.21.2008 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi girls! My kitchen is almost finished. Although not a reno, it was a self built home and we are still finishing areas of the house including the kitchen. I had asked you for help choosing a backsplash, and thank you all so much! We chose a creamy matte subway in a 1 x 2 mosaic. It should come in this week and I've attatched photos of it. I'm so excited! Sooooo.... here's our 99% finished kitchen!
Creamy white cabinets (arctic), island in Alder stained with burnt sienna by Westridge Cabinets.
White Kashmir Granite
Black Iron pulls and knobs
Kenmore Elite Stainless appliances, including fridge, dishwasher, mircrowave, slide in range, garborator.
Delta aberdeen faucet
Daltile 1 X 2 mosaics full body porcelain tiles in "buiscut"
Wall paint Creamy White benjamin moore, Ceiling paint custom-mixed light gray, trim paint cloud white by BM.
Central vac pan/kick under island
Island measures 5 feet by 8 feet and features 6 inch turned leg posts extended to the corners. (island fits 4 bar stools)
Flooring, engineerd hardwood oak by bellefloor in wenge.
Wine rack on end of island.
Triarch "The Classic" pendants over island.

The backsplash that I've ordered.

view from livingroom
(please ignore the mess, we were tiling the entry in this photo)

Pantry door has since been frosted..


clipped on: 07.11.2008 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2008 at 05:00 pm

RE: washer stacked with condenser dryer vs combo unit (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jamesk on 05.08.2007 at 10:00 am in Laundry Room Forum

On the newer models of Miele and Bosch condenser dryers it's no longer necessary to empty the condensate reservoir. They now have a tube that drains the condensate into the drain standpipe.


clipped on: 07.10.2008 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 07.10.2008 at 10:17 am

RE: Long Duct Run for Vented Dryer vs. Condenser Dryer (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bestefar on 03.19.2007 at 05:49 pm in Laundry Room Forum

We just went through the same exercise regarding venting. We are also considering the exact same appliances because of limited depth. Additionally, there is one additional suggestion that no one else has mentioned. A company called Fantech offers in-line and outside mounted booster fans for weird or long dryer runs. I spoke with a tech guy at the company and he seemed pretty knowledgeable. The fans are pressure activated, so only run when the dryer is turned on. I don't know if you need this extreme a solution, but the price for these is only about $200, about the same difference between a condenser dryer and a vented one. BTW, there are more detailed installation instruction regarding venting on Miele's website. You add a certain length for each bend to calculate a totaly effective vent length.

I am very interested in which brand is your top contender. We may have to eliminate the Bosch because it doesn't vent on the right. We've got an 11-year old Asko dishwasher that has run without any repair and performs well. However, looking at this site and other places on the internet, Asko reliability and service seem to get LOTS of complaints. Otherwise I would go with the Asko, but it looks like we are going with Miele.

Finally, if you are in San Francisco, where are you shopping for appliances? We are on Russian Hill. Please post your choices when you finalize your decision.


clipped on: 07.10.2008 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 07.10.2008 at 10:14 am

RE: Long Duct Run for Vented Dryer vs. Condenser Dryer (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: housekeeping on 03.19.2007 at 02:50 am in Laundry Room Forum

I have an Asko condenser dryer and I would recommend a direct vent model if you can swing it. I have the condenser because of a unique situation, but I would always opt for regular venting if I could.

It's not that the condensing function doesn't work, it does, most of the year. (And it can keep up with the Asko and Miele washers, just fine.) But it has its own set of challenges.

Cleaning the condenser fins is the nastiest, most disgusting job in my household and it has to be done about every five to seven loads, not the once or twice a year as it recommends in the manual. And a condenser model never really dries out inside so the machine is constantly on the verge of mold problems. So much so that in the summer, though I only use it for a few minutes for each load (I hang out everything on a line) I set a small heater in the dryer drum and run it for half an hour after the last wash load has been processed just to try and get the machine dry inside. I have replaced the felt lining at least six times in the fifteeen years I've owned the machine. And twice a year I break the whole thing down and completely disassemble to dig out the fine, fugitive lint that accumulates inside. When I mean disassemble I don't mean just opening the back, I mean take it apart into a pile of pieces on the floor.

It also generates a surprising amount of water vapor. I have a collection of antique books and I monitor my interior Rh with hygrometers, so it's not just my imagination. The additional humidity is not particularly problematic in the winter when this wood-heated house gets as dry as the Sahara but in the summer it can be a problem as we don't have a/c.

And that brings me to the main functional problem: The condensers work best when the ambient air temps and the temp of the heated air within the dryer have a big spread. In the winter my house is usually about 60F so there's no problem. I live in the NE and during the summer the ambient air temp in my house can easily be 75-80F, or even higher. Under those conditions the spread isn't wide enough to be efficient at low dryer temps. And usually it's a hot, humid, rainy (and therefore rotten outdoor drying) day when I finally get desperate enough to use my dryer to fully dry a load, only to find that it takes forever to accomplish its task under those conditions. If you live in an air conditioned house, or in a really dry area, this would not be a problem for you; but since the dryer also throws out a fair amount of heat you will pay to run your a/c to remove the heat you could have just sent out the exhast run of conventional dryer.

In short, if there is no other choice, then a condenser dryer will do the job, but in every other circumstance a direct vent would be better, IMO.

For a regular dryer you could increase the vent size and add an in-line booster fan to assist in good ventilation. Also plan to have easy cleanouts to make that task less onerous.



clipped on: 07.10.2008 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 07.10.2008 at 10:11 am

Oops... forgot to mention... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gordonr on 03.19.2007 at 12:31 am in Laundry Room Forum

You also have to empty the water collected from a condensing dryer. Also thought some condensing models need or work better if they can be connected to a cold water source to assist in the condensation process. They just sound more complex.

Given your small loads maybe a condenser would work out. Once you get the venting in, a regular dryer just seems so much simpler.


clipped on: 07.10.2008 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 07.10.2008 at 10:10 am

RE: Show me your glass shelf above your sink! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mrslimestone on 05.31.2008 at 06:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I also have one in another bathroom with a wall mount sink. Im not sure what you're thinking of in terms of a big faucet but I'd try to keep the faucet to scale with the sink. A big faucet on a tiny sink is going to look off (at least it would to me).
2nd floor Hall Bath
As an aside, I have one of these shelves in all of my bathrooms because I find that extra bit of room useful no matter how much space you have on the sink itself. I know it seems weird but is nice to have those little things out of the way.


clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 07:22 pm

RE: Ming Green Copycat Bath (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: hoffman on 01.31.2008 at 11:48 am in Bathrooms Forum

The tile in this bathroom goes up to about 56" (48" of subway tile + about 8" for the trim pieces and mosaic border) above the floor -- which is higher than you would normally go. The reason I did it so high is because I didn't want the decorative tile border to hit the medicine cabinet in an awkward location (i.e., I didn't want to have to cut into one of the trim pieces or the strip of mosaic to fit the bottom wood trim of the medicine cabinet). A downside of having the tile so high is that the light switch/power outlet is also higher than normal (since I didn't want to put that in the middle of the tile, either) -- so young kids can't turn on the lights by themselves.

I think 48" is a more standard height -- but I would think about how the tile will fall relative to any other elements you need to work around (e.g., medicine cabinets, windows, light switches/outlets, etc.

Here's another bath that I tiled up to 51" (48" to the top of the subway tile plus 3" of trim) -- the black liner ended up fitting in perfectly with the bottom trim piece on the medicine cabinet:



clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 07:15 pm

Ming Green Copycat Bath

posted by: hoffman on 01.26.2008 at 01:22 am in Bathrooms Forum

I owe everything about this renovation to GardenWeb, right down to the lavender paint color! I shamelessly copied a bathroom that was posted on the gallery 4 years ago and miraculously was still there when I discovered this board a year ago. If you saw it, I'm sure you'll remember it because it was very unusual. I kept walking into tile stores asking "Do you have ming green marble basketweave tile?" until I actually found the *exact* tile from my inspiration bath.

Here is my new powder room...



... the copycat floor tile:


...this mosaic border is actually a little different than the inspiration bath:



Kohler Revival sink, toilet, accessories
Rohl faucet
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet & light
BM "Lavender Ice" paint
Adex white crackle subway tile
Ming green mosaic tile from Short Hills Marble & Tile in NJ

... and here's a link to the original inspiration bath. Anna, if you're still out there, THANK YOU!!!


clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 07:12 pm

RE: beadboard (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: karenforroses on 03.05.2008 at 09:59 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We used the Georgia Pacific Ply-Bead Panels in our kitchen and bathroom. They are very sturdy (much heavier than the cheap beadboard paneling we saw in a number of places, yet in convenient 4 x 8 panels, and not as costly as the individual tongue & groove wood. They can even be used on porches and are more moisture resistant than many options. We love ours!

Wall sconces


clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 03:58 pm

RE: AZEK Best Beadboard in Bath or Another? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fivefootzero on 07.08.2008 at 09:54 am in Bathrooms Forum

We are almost done with our small master bath remodel. I wanted beadboard, but didn't want seams or other imperfections inherent with using 4 x 8 sheets. We found tung and groove beadboard and my husband said it was a dream to work with. We primed with a very good primer, and then painted with bathroom/kitchen paint. I love the way it turned out. The grooves are actually grooves, not just slight impressions. There are no seams and it was very easy to work with and cut around outlets, AC vent, etc. We got it at Lowe's.

The room is still unfinished, but you get the idea here.




clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 11:21 am    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 11:22 am

RE: Finished Marble Parlor Bathroom (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: mrslimestone on 03.18.2008 at 06:57 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is my other bathroom. Not quite as exciting of a change but Im happy with how it turned out.


2nd floor Hall Bath

Toilet: Toto Promenade
Tub: Kohler Cast Iron
Sink: Original to the house
Faucet: Kohler Pillar Taps Brushed Nickel
Shower: Price Pfister Mariel Brushed Nickel
Wall Tile: Stock subway tile - I believe its Florida tile but I don't was the cheapest subway tile available
Wall Trim: Matching Victorian Cap
Floor Tile: Unglazed ceramic black and white hex
Medicine Cabinet, Shelf, Towel Bar, Toilet Paper Holder, Light: From Lowes
Shower Curtain, Rod and Rings: Target
Wall Paint: BM Beach Glass, Semi Gloss

Thanks again to everyone for the help!


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:12 pm

Finished Marble Parlor Bathroom

posted by: mrslimestone on 03.02.2008 at 07:44 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Im back to share another finished room. Hard to believe Im close to being done with my reno.

Anyway - here it is. The photos are a bit off (not sure what Im doing wrong when taking them) but the photos make the room look much darker and greener than it really is. In person, its a lot more serene of a scheme.

It has three bulbs (two at the mirror and one on the ceiling) and its really bright. The carrera marble is a blueish grey and the wall is a greenish grey.


Specs for those interested
-Carrera hex, subway tile, victorian rail and base
-Kohler Memoirs Toilet
-Porcher Pedestal sink & faucet
-Pottery Barn Mirror, Sconces, Shelf, TP holder, towel bar
-Colors : BM Gray Owl on wall, polished nickel finish on fixtures
-Clawfoot tub is original from my house (resprayed interior, painted with aluminum paint on exterior)

Thanks again for all the help and inspriration the regulars on this board have provided. This site was such a helpful resource throughout my reno, I really don't know how anyone renovates WITHOUT it.

PS: Yes I know the door swings the wrong way. Big oversight on my part but oh well.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:11 pm

RE: What is the rationale for grey grout with white subway tile? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mary_in_nc on 06.25.2008 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I have Subway Ceramics white tile. I went with the lightest grey grout my tile guy had and spaced them 1/16th apart. Turned out beautiful. We chose light grey for a couple of reasons. First, we wanted the tile pattern to be emphasized. Second, it wouldn't show dirt like white or linen would. Didn't go with a darker grey grout because we wanted the tile to stand out, not the grout line.



clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 06:48 pm

RE: white subway tile cost? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: spoonwood on 06.20.2008 at 11:50 am in Kitchens Forum

We went with the inexpensive Daltile (it's actually the off-white shade) and we are very happy with the choice.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 06:46 pm