For about a month now I have been searching this forum, talking with members and receiving great advice on buying our sink and faucet for our remodel. As a result I have made my purchase and received my goods. I wanted to share with you the experience in a hope it will help someone.

SINK: The question was no-name sink vs. brand name. After a lot of research and help of forum members we decided on an 18x18 (exterior) zero radius no-name sink. It arrived early this morning and I could not be happier. It is as good if not better than all of the name brand sinks I've seen (in person) the site I purchased it from claims that their sinks are 15 guage. I was not sure I believed it. It so happens my Father-in-Law is a mech. engineer and has some little gizmo that measures steel guage. He has confirmed that it is indeed 15 guage. All parts.

Now, onto the site. I got it from Builder Spec www.stainless-sink.com. What is important to note that I called them on Wednesday to verify that they had one in stock. They did. It shipped that day and arrived early this morning. I spoke with Rebecca and she spent time on the phone with me to answer all my questions. Very Very Pleased. Price: 269.99 no tax free shipping.

FAUCET: This was easier as we knew that we wanted the Grohe 32319e Minta Kitchen Pull Down Spray in super-steel. I searched for the best deal out there and found it at www.HOMEPERFECT.com. As with the sink, I called first to verify that they had what I wanted in stock. They did. Now, I'll stay their Customer Service was a bit shaky but I ordered it on Monday and it came Wednesday. We went with the super steel which was more expensive than the chrome. We paid $363.48 for it (no tax outside NY and free shipping) on average, most sites are selling it for $420.

I hope this helps anyone looking to either get a great sink or a good deal on a faucet. Just Remember, it is critical that you call first to verify that it is in stock.

The narrowest cabinet is probably 6"...but once you account for the walls and/or face frame, you're looking at a 4.5" opening for frameless & 3" opening for framed cabinets...so even in this case using a filler pullout would give you more room.

A filler pullout, OTOH, has no walls so no space is lost on walls or frames.

Rev-A-Shelf's filler pullouts come in 3", 6", & 9" widths for bases and 3" & 6" for walls. No, I have no association w/Rev-A-Shelf, but (1) many cabinet makers use Rev-A-Shelf hardware/pullouts for their cabinets and (2) they're the only ones I know have them...and their site is the easy to navigate! BTW...you can find Rev-A-Shelf products for much less at various online sites (OvisOnline, for example).

When discussing filler pullouts vs cabinets, remember that cabinets come from your cabinet maker while filler pullouts can come from your cabinet maker or elsewhere. However, what will have to come from your cabinet maker for filler pullouts is the "door front" as well as the materials necessary for building a toe kick, molding, etc.

Are you also asking about the narrowest pullout pantry there is? As a filler pullout, Rev-A-Shelf (again) has them...but only in 6" widths. They also have 5" wide cabinet inserts for 6" or 6.5" wide pullout pantry cabinets as well as inserts for 36" wide pivot-out pantry cabinets. You'll have to talk w/your cabinet maker for cabinet sizes.

Rev-A-Shelf, Filler Pull-Outs - Base

Rev-A-Shelf, Filler Pull-Outs - Wall

Rev-A-Shelf, Filler Pull-Outs - Tall

Rev-A-Shelf, Pivot-out Pantries

Rev-A-Shelf, Pantry w/Soft Close for 5" Opening

HTH!

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen #39

I tried to resize all of the photos, but for some reason, photobucket would not allow me to shrink a couple. Sorry!

Some of the pictures show the cabinets too yellow, and some too white. They're actually in between.
The hole in the brick chimney is for a woodstove, soon to be installed.
Trusses were built and installed by my husband - his company builds timber frame barns.
There will be a table in front of the banquette seating - hopefully sooner than later.

BANQUETTE

TRUSS

SITTING AREA

PANTRY

COOKTOP & SINK

SINK

MICROWAVE

ENTRY

Cabinets: Plato in Sunlight
Counter & sink: Soapstone from Green Mountain
Floors: variable width Quarter Sawn Oak with a 50/50 mix of Minwax English Chestnut & Red Mahogany stain
Faucet: Rohl
Hardware: ORB - cheap from HD
Walls: Morrel from BM
Trim & woodwork: BM colormatched to cabinets
Backsplash: to be determined
Ceiling in sitting area: tin in a copper finish

Hope you enjoy...
Bebe

Thanks to all of you for your wealth of knowledge. I only wish I had run across GW much earlier in the build.

Here's mine. We framed ours in instead of using cabinetry.

If cabinet space is at a premium, consider changing your sink base to a 33" sink base. 6" in base cabinets is significantly more than 6" in upper cabinets (re: your reference to getting a 30" range hood instead of a 36"). Also, consider changing the 36" lazy/super susan to a 33" (33" on the window wall/36" on the range wall).

You'll add 6" on the left side of the sink and 3" on the right side of the sink, which also makes the layout more functional, because...

• Reduce the trash pullout to 18"...2 standard bins fit in an 18".
  
• Next, move the 9" tray cabinet to the other side of the sink.
  
• Change the 9" tray cab to a 12" drawer base
  OR make the 27" base cabinet 39"
  OR make them a 15" drawer base + 24" drawer base

This puts the tray cabinet storage closer to the range, which is where most of the items in it will be used.

Lascatx - eventually I will get this finished. Supposed to be going to the cabinet guy tomorrow at 11 EST. Those panels(which are just in design phase at this moment) are actually just attached to the wall. I'm not really sure what you meant by "storage behind it". The cabinet and shelves in the hallway has been a trial and error thing. It does make that area a little more "claustrophobic". But, I've been trying to "simplify" the kitchen area by not putting anything behind the island and I think I need some storage in addition to the corner pantry. Do you think I should just eliminate anything in that area to the right of the frig?

Bmore - are you suggesting the soffit should start at the front of the frig and make a ceiling across to the front of the DR doorway or the back of the DR doorway? The front of the frig doesn't line up with the southern end of the DR entrance it lines up with the northern end.

I think what you're suggesting in your diagram, is that the wall should be smooth and the pantry units actually made to look like they're "built in"? In order to make that wall "smooth" I basically need to build out the entrances surrounding both the DR and the foyer area. Is that correct? Would that look odd if it's the kitchen is the only room in the house that has "deeper" entrances? Here's and overhead of the kitchen and the family room to the left and then of the downstairs as it currently is.

Thanks for everyone's help. I know I keep pouncing on this, but I feel like I'm close, but am just missing something that I can't put my finger on.

I sincerely think the rendering is playing some tricks on you if you think there are a lot of lines going on. You have to remember that the pantry is about 30" deep, so the 12" or so shelves in the back will not show like they do here. I think the doorway comes across as a void, rather than adding lines.

I am influenced by a lot of the inspiration islands you've shared with me that others haven't had the advantage of seeing, so I can't even imagine black or stainless on the island. You always seem to like examples that are more rough and rustic wood.

You have no uppers, and just a few of the simplest/cleanest of taller items: the builtin frig and freezer, the almost invisible pantry, and the simply-styled Shaker cabinets. I think this kitchen is simpler and cleaner-lined than almost any I've seen. The Shaker style of the tall cabs and the style of the island add character, without which I think you'd risk austerity.

I am sad that you are so unsettled about your plan...Because we just haven't been able to hit on one you love and can be sure of. I am torn between thinking you're being too critical of your design judgment, and wondering if we're on the wrong track if nothing ever gels.

Anyway, here is the same view as above, but with a few changes:

-I removed the doorway framing, cabinet, and shelves in the corner near the dining room doorway, since they do add visual noise and you've been thinking of getting rid of them anyway.

-I added lighting to see if that makes anything more clear and with less glare.

-I adjusted the height of the backsplash, because I have always been uncomfortable with how the line of it cut across the middle of things, and Bmore mentioning it prompted me to try something new. You've seen it all the way up, so I thought I'd try using the hood as a guideline.

And, I'm posting more views, since you won't always see the room from that one angle. ;-)

Here's the kitchen & dining area

Oops, I should have closed that cabinet door.

Ahhh . . that's better!

Prep island is great--especially the cool trash chute with trash pull out and the fun & funky copper veggie sink.

One more close up of that trash chute. Homage to the trash chute, because I love it so much!

Front of island, with outlet for the laptop(s). Perfect for drinkin' coffee & catching up with GW.

Here are some pros/cons. I'm sure others will have things to add as well:

Pull Down
A faucet in which the faucet head pulls straight down toward the bottom of the sink. For example, Kohler Vinnata, Kohler Simplice

• Pros
  
  • Supposed to be better "ergonomically." The movement of grabbing the faucet head and pulling down is a more natural movement than grabbing it and pulling it out. It has to do with how you have to grab a hold of the head.
    
  • Can fit taller pots, pitchers, etc. under them b/c of the high arc
    
  • Look cool! :-)
  
  
• Cons
  
  • Not easy to do "hands free" pot filling when a pot is on the counter next to the sink (as opposed to in the sink)
    
  • If not careful, more splashing than a pullout or non-pull faucet
    
  • Some here have noticed water pressure problems w/high arc faucets. If you have low water pressure to begin with, the fact that the water has to travel an additional 8 to 10 inches (depending on the height of the faucet) further reduces the pressure

Pull Out
A faucet in which the faucet head pulls out toward you. For example, Kohler Fairfax

• Pros
  
  • Easier to fill pots on the counter next to the sink. You just pull the faucet head out, hook it on the side of the pot, and go! Then when full, just move/slide it over, no lifting it out of the sink.
    
  • Less splashing than a pull down
    
  • Lower profile, especially useful if you have a faucet in a small area (where a high arc would overwhelm) or if you have limited height to work with (like under a cabinet)
  
  
• Cons
  
  • Unless you have a very deep sink, cannot fit a tall pot or pitcher under it

Personally, I have both...a pull down at the main/cleanup sink and a pullout at the prep sink. The original reason I got a pullout at the prep sink is that it's in the corner close to the cabinets above and I wanted a lower profile faucet. But now I'm glad I got it as it's easier to fill pots on the side. The other thing it's easier to fill is the bucket for clean water for the fish tank! When it has 5 gallons in it it's too heavy to easily lift out of the deep sinks we have and then take it out...it's much easier to fill it on the counter and take it off w/o additional lifting up.

Pull Down:
Kohler Vinnata

Pullout:
Kohler Fairfax

Now, I need some color help. My original inspiration kitchen just did not work out for me. I tried to glaze my perimeter cabs, but after two tries, I went back to the bavarian cream(white). I could not get over that 'dirty' look. Maybe my base white is too white, i don't know. anyway, in my inspiration kitchen, of course the perimeter cabs are a glazed white and the island is a black glazed sage green. I got the island right, and i love it. no problem glazing sage green. i did end up with seating at my island and i think the color will be great for not showing scuffs or dirt. Now, the problem is I'm trying to tie this bright white together with the dark green somehow. the glazed mixed with the green in my inspiration has a pulled together look.

I know that I have not done my backsplash, and that may be whats actually pulling the inspiration kitchen together. thats where i need some help. maybe someone else can take one look and know what i need to do to get a more uniform look. i was originally wanting the same backsplash as the inspiration, but then i thought about something in more of a solid white or cream color with subways and maybe some sort of design over the stove but with the same solid white or cream color. i thought this would be more practical in case I ever want to update my colors in my kitchen. Tiles are not something like paint that can be changed easily.

Now, i suspect that I need to do some sage green in my backsplash over the stove like in the inspiration. is this what i need to give me 'that' look?

inspiration kitchen:

and another one very similar:

my kitchen:

should i do the tile backsplash in the bottom middle area too where the green bowl is?

this shows how white they are

Here is a link that might be useful: DIY kitchen

This was a whole home remodel due to a flood, so it took quite some time to complete (actually, we are still not done yet). I don't know when I will actually finish the last bits, so I might as well post it now.

Unfortunately, I am also a member of the "tear down your backsplash" group. I was sick to my stomach over it, but once again, the good folks here at the Kitchen Forum, got me going in a better direction, and helped me complete a backsplash we just love! We still have a lot of little things left to do...decorate, molding pieces, etc.

This kitchen is upstairs above the garage. We use the manual dumbwaiter all the time!

Ok... here are the photos.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard paint...fun! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!

We started our project back in April of last year. It was supposed to be a fairly simple project of knocking down a couple of walls to open our 40 year old kitchen up to the rest of the house. But as ususal, it ended up a much larger project. We replaced the flooring in most of the first floor, built a new fireplace mantel and built in bookshelves and basically updated the entire first floor of the house. It ended up costing way more than we expected and took much longer than we had ever imagined, but the result is amazing.
Sometimes I forget how bad it used to be. I was just looking at our before pictures and I was shocked at the dramatic change in our house in the past year. We now actually use our kitchen every day. I have cooked more in the past month than I did in 3 years with the old kitchen. We only had 1 working burner on the old cooktop and the 40 year old oven had a hole in it that made it impossible to keep a consistent temperature in the oven. It was a nightmare to cook in there. My new kitchen is not much bigger than the old one, but the design works so much better.
It was a difficult process. Our KD/Cabinet Guy was very difficult to work with, but I'm beginning to recover from my battles with him. I still sometimes fight the urge to drive my car through the front of their showroom, but I no longer wake up in the middle of the night angry at the KD. For anyone in the middle of their project dealing with similar problems, I can assure you, once the project is done you will eventually recover and begin to forget how painful it was.
Throughout our project I got great advice from this forum and I learned a lot. I only wish I had found this site earlier in our project. Many thanks to everyone who consulted on my various crises--the hood that wasn't centered over the range, the hardware that didn't match and my many fights with my evil KD. I'm posting a couple of pictures of the old kitchen and the finished kitchen to show the scope of the transformation. I'm also posting the link to albums of the before and after.
Thanks to everyone for your help!









And the horrible before pictures:

Here is a link that might be useful: Before/After Albums

Colleen, sorry it took me a while to get these photos for you of the outside. We didn't need a little roof because we have an overhang there. The guys said it was very easy to frame. If you want me to ask them about how much you should expect to pay, give me the size of your window and I'll ask them.

My window trim isn't painted yet, but I wanted to show you my bump-out. It's only 6 inches deep, but it makes the area behind the sink seem huge. It was much less expensive to do than a greenhouse window. (Please ignore my leaning faucet ... not hooked up yet.)

Good luck!

Erika

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

• Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)

• Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you...do you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?
   • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

     E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

     Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

   • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.

2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.
   • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

   • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.

HTH!

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ikea fans website

I think you might be able to get rollouts for a 30" cabinet, but keep in mind that canned or bottled foods will get quite heavy and you could have problems if you fill a rollout shelf with too much weight. There may be a reason you are not seeing them that wide.

Let's see -
First I made sure dh & kiddies were out while I did this

I used a lower cab next to dw to put kiddie cups, bowls, plates - for their easy access
I used a large drawer nxt to fridge for cereals and kid snacks - again, easy access
-In that same bank of drawers nxt to fridge - top drawer is ziplock bags, saran wraps and cutting boards
- nxt drawer is all tupperware -
I have a hutch type cab above that bank (nxt to fridge) that is what I use as pantry - bread, coffee, peanut butter, crackers etc

Drawers nxt to range on right (I'm right handed) are all pots, mixing bowls, some small appliances, and the utensils
left side of range are - top: Foil, napkins (near table)spice drawer, baking supplies
Upper cabs nxt to range - Oils, vinegar, pasta, canned
goods,

I have a small bank of drawers 14" as you enter kit - that is where cell phones, keys, 1 drawer has a silverware caddy for everyday tools, measuring tape, etc.. paper, envelopes, take out menus etc (this bank has been great!)

The rest are self explan - like everyday dishes, glasses in upper next to dw
-glass upper houses pretty dishes/glasses
- lwer cabs - large items, salad bowls, appliances (crock pot)
Drawers near range dishtowels, microfiber, pot holders

HTH
Good luck!

They cost w/shipping was 290 for 2 stools (already a good price) and I got 10% off with coupon codes I found online. Had to use a different code for each purchase (must be limited to one per order). code numbers were:
129205 and 129380.

Coupon code site is:

Here is a link that might be useful: coupon code site

This is a bit oversimplified, but it's the basic jist of the system.

There are a couple of things you can do to rectify the situation. One would be to use a couple of lollicolumns and a beam across the joists at midspan. Of course this would only work in an unfinished basement, and would curtail your use of the space dramatically. Another thing you can do is to sister new joists to the old ones, thereby increasing the strength of your joisting system enough to bring it up to where it needs to be. This can only be done, though, if you don't have alot of electrical, plumbing, etc. going through the joists.

One other thing you didn't say one way or the other-- any chance you have any walls bridging the joists anywhere in that span?

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.


2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.


3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...
4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...


• Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.


• Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
• Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.


• Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).


• Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)


• Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags


• Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels


• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels


• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels


• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords


• Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot


• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

Here are the pictures of the pullouts for our 36" pantry and 24" baking cabinet.

Here is a picture:

This one gives you a better idea of how tight it was in the actual kitchen - if the fridge was open and the oven was open at same time there wasn't enough room for a person between

The wall that was removed:

Sorry I couldn't find any pictures of the dining room "before" it was just a plain carpeted rectangular room.

Now for the good stuff.. the after!

I have to mention that many of the after pictures were taken by the GC's photographer and are copyrighted so cannot be used without permission (he said I had to say that before I posted the pics).

The dining table and chairs we had before. All the design was done by me with lots of help from gardenweb - especially on the layout (at first my DW didn't trust me to do it and wanted to hire a designer but I think I did really well) the exceptions are the acrylic in the dining room was designed by my GC and the cabinets in the dining I gave general layout to the cabinet folks but they did the finished design (kitchen cabs I did all the design/layout). I used google sketchup for all the design.

The structural changes were removing the dining wall and bumping back just the chunk of the wall behind the wall ovens a couple feet. I also added a pocket door into the opening from the TV room to the kitchen as well (the last of the "before" pictures is taken from where the pocket door was put in).

There are so many details I could spend an hour typing them and still leave something out - so instead if you have any questions ask and I will respond :) One thing not noticeable in the pics is the cupboard on the right in the dining cabs is actually a beverage fridge. There is pullout trash+recycle in both the kitchen and dining.

And people always ask about the diswasher, yes its an 18" dishwasher, and they always ask why I went for a small one - becuase its the only way I could get the layout I wanted with the dishwasher to the left of the sink and where I could unload the whole dishwasher without moving my feet. The efficiency in loading/unloading more than makes up for the extra loads I have to run. Its a Miele with the silverware tray and I would estimate I only lose about 20% capacity compared to my old dishwasher.

The backsplash was done by my brother, its completely custom cut (as in he had a pile of leftover slab of rock from some other jobs of his and he cut all the peices to the exact size so it would be 2 tiles high on point). I bought the fossils on ebay over a 3 month period or so.

What's sad is the granite is the highlight of the kitchen and none of these pictures show it well. If you look close on the 3rd picture there you can see that it has black streaks and the picture with the sink you can see dark streaks there as well (in that area the streaks are dark grey)

Any questions? :)