Clippings by shrty411

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RE: OH ...Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: nicethyme on 11.18.2007 at 06:22 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Hazie, I modified it alittle - knowing that I wanted to try tiles

3 C flour
1 C salt
1 C water (I substituted admix) LOL
2 tsp oil

knead it until mixed, then roll it out

bake at 250 for an hour then increase temp to 350 and bake until evenly golden.

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clipped on: 12.04.2007 at 01:09 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2007 at 01:09 pm

WIP Outdoor Lamp

posted by: lilpeaches on 08.30.2007 at 09:54 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

This is something that I've been working on. I had a plastic birdbath that I cut in half and used as a mold with a hypertufa mix. I ran a piece of PVC pipe down the center to house the electrical cord I took from a lamp, then I fashioned some "clips" out of sheet metal to hold the globe on. The globe I got for 50 cents (YEA!!) that was going to be for a totem. Now I plan to mosaic it for the top of the light and set it outside my door. Will post more pics as I get it mosaiced.
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Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 08.30.2007 at 11:02 am    last updated on: 08.30.2007 at 11:02 am

RE: name plaque WIP (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: ladyronnie on 07.13.2007 at 03:11 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Back in business!
Ok, so it's basically done. And boy, did I learn some things about how NOT to do this. It turned out "ok", but not exactly as I had in mind. Mainly it's much thicker and heavier than it needs to be, and I know what I'd do differently next time. I'll post the pics of the process and tell you what I did and what I'd change.

This is what my thinset looked like. I think it was just about right. I screened it through a spaghetti sieve before I added the water so there were no chunks in it. That was a GOOD plan.
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Here's my setup with the first three blobs of thinset. I should have stopped there or even before.
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Mistake #1: Putting too much thinset on the backerboard. I pushed it around with a spoon and then with my gloved hands. That worked fine, just had way too much on it in the end.

I should have had another picture taken between here. This one shows the thinset spread on the backerboard AND on the back of the letters.
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Mistake #2: DON'T spread it on the back of your tessarae! I had a lot of trouble with picking up tessarae from the contact paper, and I didn't need nearly so much thinset (do you sense a theme here?)

Next, I flipped the backerboard over onto the tessarae part, and mooshed it down with my hands.
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This next step worked pretty neat. Because I had it laid out on newspaper, I could wrap the newspaper around the whole "sandwich", then flip it over right side up.
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Another thing I didn't take a picture of, after I flipped it over I smoothed over it with my hands on the contact paper. If I had used less thinset, this may have been even more important to get the thinset/grout between all the tessarae.

After I got the newspaper out from around it, here's what it looked like. I found that I could carefully pull on the contact paper to better center the whole thing, that even though I had mooshed them together it would still move as a whole. I didn't have to move it far.
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Here it is after I pulled the contact paper off. I used a lot of clear textured glass, textured side out so it would catch a lot of light. That was a good plan.
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Mistake #3: Don't pull the contact paper off until after the thinset is set! I waited an hour or so, but because it was still fairly wet, the contact paper pulled up on the thinset and made it just a little rough all over instead of smooth. For this project that doesn't matter so much, but if I wanted the "grout" smooth, it would have mattered a lot. DH thought I ought to go over it with a grout sponge, which WOULD have smoothed the grout, but I did NOT want to get thinset onto my textured glass if I didn't have to, and on this I didn't have to, so I left it rough.

Now I have to finish the edges somehow, or not, and decide what to do with it. I am thinking of making another one to actually use on the yard post I have, now that I know better what I am doing. I am thinking of just laying this one near the entry, except I keep thinking it may look like some kind of headstone!

What I did with some of the leftover thinset...
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...and the rest of the leftover thinset. I needed a doorstop for the bathroom door. I believe this will work just dandy, after I put some felt on the back to keep from scratching the tile.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

That's it! What do you think? All of you who have done this before may look at my mistakes and say, "Well, duh!" I learn best the hard way!

Veronica

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clipped on: 07.14.2007 at 08:24 am    last updated on: 07.14.2007 at 08:24 am

RE: Faux Van Gogh (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: slowmedown on 07.13.2007 at 05:00 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

SHADES: By dry application on the first part is: Brush the whole sheet w/black paint, w/paper towel, wipe off so that only the texture shows in black - you know - like when you faux-finish walls - you put the dark on, wipe off to leave the shadows of the dark. Then paint w/your regular colors - metallics are fabulous. Then, there are the iridescent enamels - do the same but I used two coats of that. The last coat is another black. On the gold leaf tiles, mentioned in BAMA's thread, I put the adhesive on, then gold leaf, then the red basecoat that is recommended UNDER gold leaf for the old world effect, then a coat of black. ROSIE was just here, and she said the faux Van Gogh looks so authentic. We can't tell the difference in the ones we bought and the ones I made. In fact, the purple looks like the same shade of paint. She said "poor Maria - just lost customers". Seriously, I'll never BUY Van Gogh again. It's so satisfying to DIY. I'm making this up but I'll just bet that's how the VG is made - paint on textured glass then baked on. Now I know how I'm gonna treat a concrete pig I've had sitting out back for more than a year - PINK VAN GOGH w/purple accents.

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clipped on: 07.14.2007 at 08:23 am    last updated on: 07.14.2007 at 08:23 am

Part 3 (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ladyronnie on 06.27.2007 at 09:53 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here you can kind of see just how shiny it turns out. If you look close you can see the reflection from the box in the surface of the tile:
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When it is completely dry, it will be stuck to that paper. I will tear the paper away, then use sandpaper to sand that edge smooth.

If you have raised your project on blocks (which need to be AWAY from the edge toward the middle of the project by the way!) you will have hard little drips along the bottom edge. The easiest way to deal with these is with a belt sander, takes them off in a hurry. More tediously, you can hand sand them. Sanding does make the epoxy turn opaque, but if it's where it matters, you can do another layer and it will go clear again.

Piece of cake, eh? Have fun!

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clipped on: 06.28.2007 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2007 at 05:46 pm

Part 2 (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ladyronnie on 06.27.2007 at 09:41 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Next, use the paintbrush (or cardboard) to PUSH EPOXY AROUND to the edges and over the edges. I used the paintbrush also to paint the sides of the project with epoxy.
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It will run over onto your supporting surface. (Which reminds me, BE SURE TO PROTECT THIS SURFACE!! I should insert here: on a larger project without its own legs, you should place something under it to suspend it so the excess can drip off and not adhere your project to your work surface. I used wood blocks under the parts of my bathroom vanity. OR make sure you have plenty of newspaper or similar that can be torn away later. The funky edge this leaves can be dealt with, not to worry.)

Ok, next comes a weird pic. I am breathing LIFE into my project. Ok, not really! All those little bubbles will go away with a gentle application of carbon dioxide. The easiest way to do this is to EXHALE over the epoxy. Looks weird, works great. You will see the little bubbles just pop and disappear.
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Just keep doing this until no more bubbles appear. (I did this through a piece of pvc pipe over my larger project so I could move around easier. Yes, I got lightheaded because it took awhile! There is a way to do this using a bunson burner. I haven't tried that though.)

Some little bubbles up close:
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And a close-up after the bubbles are gone:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

That is basically it. The project will take a several hours to dry. It says in the literature how long at what temp and humidity level. The hotter the better. A couple other little things in the next post...

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clipped on: 06.28.2007 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2007 at 05:45 pm

Epoxy Tutorial with lots of PICS :)

posted by: ladyronnie on 06.27.2007 at 09:23 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I am making a new thread for this since the previous one got stale waiting for me to get this done! I did this on a very small project, a little 3" square coaster, mainly in the interest of the time I had to glue the tessarae. You would follow the same steps on a larger project. One thing that is very important, is that your project needs to sit LEVEL! And the bigger the project, the more important it is. So, that said, Here Goes:

First, arrange everything you need AHEAD OF TIME! I learned the first time around that not having something when you have epoxy ready to go is NOT GOOD!
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
What you need: Your project
--two-part epoxy (resin and hardener)
--measuring cup (I used a tablespoon for small amount)
--container to mix in (straight sided)
--something to mix with (needs a straight side to scrape container sides, I use a plastic picnic knife for small amount)
--a piece of stiff cardboard or a throwaway paintbrush (I have a craft paintbrush that is getting stiffer and stiffer, but I keep using it)
--rubbing alcohol (the only thing that will clean up wet epoxy)
--a rag for wiping your hands, etc (to wet with ALCOHOL, not water)
--something to time for two minutes (watch or clock with second hand, kitchen timer, etc. Not in pic, I used clock on wall)

Measure EQUAL AMOUNTS of resin and hardener into your mixing container, (I quickly wiped out my measuring spoon with alcohol-rag), and begin stirring. Time stirring for TWO MINUTES.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of container frequently. Use kind of a whipping action, like hand-whipping egg whites. Mixture will get frothy and even have little bubbles float into the air.

POUR mixture onto your project. You can pour it all in the middle on a small project, pour it all around on a larger one. You can see all the bubbles in this pic:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

To be continued...
(I just don't want to accidentally delete this whole thing before I post it! So I'll do it in a few parts.)

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clipped on: 06.28.2007 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2007 at 05:45 pm

The Recipe - Hope I can do this RIGHT!!!

posted by: slowmedown on 03.08.2007 at 03:44 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Painting my ironing board legs, but decided to check in and am thinking I better take the time to try to relate what we learned. The others can fill in where I leave gaps, or I'll be happy to answer any questions.

For those who have a sewing background, this w/be a little easier. I used to sew all my clothes, so I related the proceedure to making a pattern to cut a dress. All her structures are a double layer of the mesh, so do everything in twos. The wire mesh is the galvanized lathe - diamond-shaped stuff used to plaster walls. To make a life-sized person, Riana begins by sorta measuring her face, cuts a piece of the mesh and begins to shape the face by folding the chin area into sorta a v-shape, cutting darts where she needed to fold and overlap for stitches, etc. To shape the forehead she cut a piece to size, leaving enough to bend and lay across to shape the forehead enough wings to attach it to the face, w/stitches made from 19 guage wire. She cuts a piece about 6/8" then turns in about an inch w/the pliers, pinches the folded end to make a "hook needle" that she pushes through the layers, to catch the pieces and then she can pull it through to wind around a couple times w/the pliers then cuts the ends off w/the cutting part of the pliers as close as possible w/o cutting the "knot". Use as many stitches as necessary to hold the piece to shape. W/each additional piece of mesh to shape the ears, nose, leave "wings" for attaching it to the base of the face. Sculpturing the face/head she then goes on to the shoulders by just bending a piece into an arched piece the length from shoulder to shoulder so the head w/be able to sit in the middle by cutting, shaping, darting so it sits properly. Remember - double layers of everything. The neck w/be a short tube you w/cut around bottom/top for the wings to attach to the head, then cut and darted to fit the shoulders once the head is attached. She goes through the whole process of sculpturing the whole body, darting, patching, pinching, folding, punching to shape, etc. The recipe for the mud mixture to be gently pushed in between the two pieces of mesh layer and smoothes over the mesh (not to completely cover) is: 1 part Portland cement to three parts of mason sand. She was using local stuff so the sand was course, and b/c the metal mesh wasn't available there, she used hardware "cloth" metal mesh - ungalvanized - 1/4" holes. After pushing through and smoothing out the structure, she covers w/plastic to dry over night. There were spots of the mesh not completely covered w/the concrete, and that was ok. It is a just a very thin layer on the outside, thereby making the statue light enough to move around easily. Next day, in most cases, it is ready to be refined or smoothed out the rough edges, especially trimming the "stitches", bumps knocked off, it is ready to be mosaiced. She doesn't cover all parts in mosaics. As shown in ROSIE's photo of the statue she made of our hostess Sam, bird and dog, she uses different colored grouts and exterior house paints to finish her pieces. She uses powdered colorants, and paints when she can't find grout in colors she wishes to use. On the arms and legs, she showed us how to use a runny mixture of grout to smooth over the skeleton to cover the mesh and concrete that won't be covered by mosaics. She makes her own grout w/one part type 1 Portland cement w/one-two parts silica sand or you can buy a regular sanded grout. For mosaicing she uses cement-based polymer fortified tile adhesive for adhering. The local stuff wasn't great, and when an occasional piece fell off, she used Weldbond to put it back on. The climate there is mild, so ...... She didn't even know what a pistol-grip glass scoring tool was. Her only tools are a hammer, a tile nipper, the tile cutter w/the little wheel to score and a trowel for mixing the cement/sand mixture - VERY BASIC TOOLS. Ask away, if this isn't clear.

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clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 09:49 am    last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 09:49 am

RE: Where do you buy the impregnator? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: silvamae on 03.10.2007 at 10:05 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here's one I can recommend: Aqua Mix UltraSeal Premium Stone & Tile Sealer. I am 99% sure I got it at Lowes but it might have been Home Depot. Now this stuff is expensive, but worth it! Recommended for both indoor and outdoor use. I believe I remember seeing a sealer actually called Impregnator at either Lowes or Home Depot that was something like $31.00. I wanted to buy it but didn't.

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clipped on: 03.11.2007 at 08:59 am    last updated on: 03.11.2007 at 09:00 am

RE: Teapot birdhouse (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: flagtruck on 03.06.2007 at 08:37 am in Garden Junk Forum

I looked in my shop and found some screwd with round heads on the top and flat on the badk side, used a glass bit a little largef than the screw and drilled a hole about 1" down from the top, then hung the pot on it and it is secure. On the back brick wall I am going to mosaid, I am going to attach them to the wall with Bondo. It sets real fast and will hold heavy stuff. (I just read about this in a mosaic book, I didn't dream it up!) I have tried it and it works.

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clipped on: 03.06.2007 at 11:01 am    last updated on: 03.06.2007 at 11:02 am

RE: Toomuchglass-- about polyclay outdoors (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: diytrying on 03.02.2007 at 10:57 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Hey mad, I just used the HD brand, Tile Lab to seal my polymer clay bones. From reading the other forums, I've moved to 511 Impregnator. Haven't had any problems with the Tile Lab and haven't had enough experience with the 511 to tell any difference.

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clipped on: 03.02.2007 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2007 at 12:21 pm

RE: WIP sink (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ladyronnie on 02.21.2007 at 06:38 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

This is totally cool! I love it!!!! An idea, though I don't know how you would make it work on a curved surface. On my bathroom vanity (see thread if you like, not too far down), I mosaiced the outside in parts, then epoxied it all with EnviroTex Lite. It gives it a marvelous smooth surface. But I was able to lay it all flat, so don't know how that might work for you...Gorgeous, regardless!

Veronica

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clipped on: 02.21.2007 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2007 at 08:07 pm

RE: Blame it on SLOW, but coffee's ready... (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: cacbeary on 01.23.2007 at 12:38 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Wow! Rosemarythyme ~ the set is absolutely LOVELY! Great idea Slow as well. I want one of those. Something else for my to do list.

I was going to mosaic a teapot & place it on some PVC pipe tilted & then mosaic a cup & saucer birdfeeder for in the garden but this is really outstanding.

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clipped on: 01.23.2007 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 01.23.2007 at 07:23 am

RE: resin or epoxy coating?? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: silvamae on 01.22.2007 at 11:07 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I found the quote below on a message board somewhere and I forwarded it to my friend Cathy who also does mosaics. She used this stuff on a table and it turned out beautifully. Here's the quote:

" I used to do quite a bit of this very thing. The product you want is called EnviroTex, available at hardware stores. It's an epoxy and hardner combination. You mix the two together and then coat whatever it is you want covered. When dry it's a hard as nails and produces a glass-like finish. Whatever you've coated ends up looking almost twice as bright as it was originally.

EnviroTex is often used to coat counter and bar tops in restaurants. Forget about Varathane type spray-on products. They scratch and are not near as shiny or clear. I've tried them all and nothing compares to EnviroTex. I would look for the small 8oz kit which will coat quite a number of pieces. It also comes in gallons but that's for huge commercial projects. Follow the directions carefully.

One trick I learned is that after you coat the piece you'll often have some air bubbles floating around. I used a heat gun to release them and when dry the coating would be as clear as could be. It's also a good idea to cover whatever you've coated with a box so dust won't settle during the curing process. And made sure it's drying on a perfectly level surface.

After mixing the two products you have a window of about fifteen minutes to coat whatever you're working on. For small work I would pour equal amounts in little paper dixie containers, the kind like you get for catsup at McDonalds, and then mix one with the other. A toothpick is good to coat and spread over the piece. The consistancy is like that of a heavy molasses and it doesn't take much to cover small items. This is the stuff you're looking for. Good luck."

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clipped on: 01.22.2007 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 01.22.2007 at 11:17 am

RE: Photos of our 1st mosaic project (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: chickeemama on 01.18.2007 at 10:17 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

There are soo many good books you can check out at the library on mosaics that cover putting the mosaic on a wall...and how to do it..3/4 inch tiles would not be too small depending on what you want it to look like..

A book that comes to mind that I thought was very helpful and I refer back to often is "Mosaic techniques and traditions" by Sonia King they have a section that they did a backsplash and it gives a lot of useful info. The section I'm referring to is pg 136 Grapevine Backsplash.

It sounds like you don't mind doing research. I found soo many great helpful books on mosaics from my local library.

You guys can do it!!!

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clipped on: 01.19.2007 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2007 at 05:16 pm

RE: fan blade sun flowers (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: yardnut_z8 on 08.19.2005 at 03:52 pm in Garden Junk Forum

you ladies are to kind, thank you for the coments.
the fan blades are plastic and they took the paint very well, I washed then, the stems are an old water hose
that was hanging on the pump house for years. the pot
I cut in half so it would fit flat next to the house.
that building is my sewing shop it is 30ft long, got a
lot of decor.room. LOL
I am having a freecycle at my house and a lady said
when she saw the flowers she knew it was the right place.
Yardnut

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clipped on: 01.14.2007 at 04:53 am    last updated on: 01.14.2007 at 04:53 am

RE: dumb bb question... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: calamity_j on 01.10.2007 at 10:14 am in Garden Junk Forum

Mad, first I have to say that with an interesting name like yours I had to look at your info page but sadly you haven't said anything about yourself!! Anyhoo, my suggestion would be to cut it, do you cut glass?, into manageable pcs and use one pc to rub against the edges of the other pcs, it acts as a file to smooth the sharp edges, and then I use clear nail polish and coat the mirror back so it seals it against moisture, the mirrors enemy! That's it, you're good to go! But that name of yours IS intriguing!!! Jane (plain) PS, they do have mirror sealant too.

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clipped on: 01.10.2007 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 01.10.2007 at 11:31 am

RE: My big cup and saucer (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: klinger on 01.07.2007 at 10:42 am in Garden Junk Forum

I'm glad you all like my backsplash so much.The total cost for me to do both sides of my galley kitchen was about 50.00. I was pretty pleased with how much character it added to an all white room. My camera seems to need its batteries charged again so I'll try and take a close up of the bead words later today.I have shells, half marbles, tiles etc in there. The half cup wasn't planned, it just broke that way and I culdn't resist putting it in, then added the little spoon to go with it.Now three years later I am thinking of redoing the cupboards and counter top, I probably could salvage the back splash, as I put it on in panels. Don't know if I would though. I have fallen in love with the glass tile mosaics and probably would switch to that.
Cindy

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clipped on: 01.08.2007 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2007 at 09:44 pm

RE: more fun with glass hanging thingys(-: (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: slowmedown on 01.06.2007 at 11:50 am in Garden Junk Forum

Y'all gonna LOVE this website for the glass crystals and garlands. They even have colors - green, purple, red, amber. I've ordered from them, and their prices you can't believe, and the service is fast.
http://www.18006683899.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Shelf/ASP/Hierarchy/09.html

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clipped on: 01.06.2007 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2007 at 05:28 pm

directions? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: cindee11461 on 01.06.2007 at 09:17 am in Garden Junk Forum

directions for these were just use an old thrift store etc. vase/plate/bottle/cup etc and drill a hole (with a drill bit made for drilling glass/ceramic)for hanging. I used a heavy piece of copper wire with beads to hang one and crystal galand to hang the others. I wrapped with copper tubing. If you do it slowly the copper tubing goes around easy without bending(-: Decorate with beads or crystals etc.(-; Sounds easy right? LOL I got the crystal garland that is on the two from Wal Mart. They came as garland clearanced in the Christmas dept. It is pretty in the sunlight. The first one I made has real glass crystals on it that I got at the flea market for a dollar! Thanks for all your kind comments I am glad you enjoyed them(-:

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clipped on: 01.06.2007 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2007 at 05:27 pm

Pictures of new hanging things (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cindee11461 on 01.05.2007 at 01:30 pm in Garden Junk Forum



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clipped on: 01.06.2007 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2007 at 05:19 pm

RE: My First Painted Leaves (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: foxesearth on 12.27.2006 at 12:55 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Y'all remember back in October, c'beary posted her fountain made with those pretty leaves?

I had to laugh about the neighbors who asked if they had to put their painted leaf outside -- I would want mine inside, too. Those are lovely.

The Hypertufa Forum is packed with how-tos on making beautiful leaf forms. Search for wannadanc for some of the best info and you'll find tips from the Safety guy and others on what and how. They've brought hypertufa to the level of an art form in the style of Little and Lewis.

Note to self: mark concrete/hypertufa on the calendar for late March, early April, first warm spell.

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clipped on: 01.02.2007 at 05:49 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2007 at 05:49 pm

RE: Bottle Trees (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: foxesearth on 06.17.2006 at 10:04 am in Garden Junk Forum

Most people stick the bottles on the ends of branches or on dowels or rebar inserted into the post.
I hang mine with fine wire slings so that the bottle necks hang straight down or outward.
The spirits moan in the wind better when the necks are free.

Nell

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clipped on: 12.18.2006 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2006 at 02:11 pm

RE: Grinder info (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: calamity_j on 12.15.2006 at 11:37 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Hazie has the right idea cuz she has her grinder coolant right beside her set up! Another good idea is to remember to grease the shaft before you put your grinder head on cuz it can freeze up on you. So, about the glass saw, well.... I am having soooo much fun with it but I feel like a drunk driver!!!!LOL! My cuts are far from perfect!! I had it in mind that it would be easier but like most things, (like soldering) it takes practise. I'm making two awesome wip right now that I can't post cuz they are gifts for "people" who are lurking! And the glass saw is really helping!!! I'll have em made in no time! Certain peices are very intricate and I would be spending a lot of time trying to cut them out but the saw does a way better job so quickly. and I know I'd probably go thru more glass because of breakage on curves not turning out, if I was doing it by hand.

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clipped on: 12.15.2006 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 12.15.2006 at 11:51 am

RE: Ring Saw/Stepping Stone/DiamondCrete (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: silvamae on 11.27.2006 at 08:06 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thanks, guys! Shrty411, about the indirect method...I have been mosaicing for 8 years and I was intimidated by the indirect method. I wanted to try it but I was afraid. Then I got this commission for the little Daisy Lane memorial stone and I HAD to do it. It was sooo easy, it is really amusing that I was worried about it.

Here are the steps. You draw your pattern on a piece of paper shaped exactly the same as the bottom of your mold. You turn the sheet of paper over and trace the same pattern on the back of the piece of paper. You butter the mold with Vaseline. Then you lay down the paper pattern back side facing up. Then you lay down a piece of clear Contact paper, cut exactly the same as the bottom of your mold, with the sticky side up. Then you mosaic directly onto the sticky Contact paper, pressing each piece firmly. No glue necessary. Then you mix up the Diamond-Crete exactly per the directions. I mixed it by hand instead of using a mixer. Pour gently into the mold. Tap the sides of the mold to cause any bubbles to rise to the surface. Follow the directions on the DiamondCrete box, allowing the setup (approx. one to two hours). Turn over and release from the mold, put it somewhere out of the way on a drying rack of some kind, and leave it along for 28 days.

When I did this stepping stone I was shaking in my boots because I was so unsure of myself, but it was a great experience. The only negative thing about it is the cost of the DiamondCrete. That alone costs about $15 per stepping stone for a 14 inch round stone.

Anyway, I loved the process. I am anxious to do one of my own design (I really did not enjoy cutting out the dates and letters, etc.). My next step is to get brave enough to mix my own concrete or whatever, (for cost savings).

Any questions, I will be glad to try to answer them.

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clipped on: 11.27.2006 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2006 at 10:27 pm

RE: Haziemoon's Bird Mirror - Grout Color Experiment (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: madhabitz on 11.22.2006 at 07:51 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I use Photoshop, but I bet Paint Shop Pro would allow you to do the same thing. You can download it from the "TRY" button on that website to see if you like it before you pay any money.

In Photoshop I used IMAGE > ADJUSTMENTS > THRESHOLD to get a duplicate of the image really contrasty, then made my selection of the white grout using the WAND tool. CTRL+J will place that selection on a new layer, then I duped that new layer a bunch of times. After that I just applied color, of which there are a million ways of doing so.

If I'd wanted to be more careful, I would've selected everything by hand then feathered the edges a bit.

Nancy

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clipped on: 11.22.2006 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2006 at 08:15 pm

RE: Ouch! That really smarts! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: firemansmom on 11.03.2006 at 02:02 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I read about the ice cream maker someplace I think on this site but it was along time ago. I just use an old electric one and yes I leave the paddles in, I put in some soapy water and just let her go. I have heard someplace that some people put in rocks or sand but I don't. I really don't know how many I put in but its only about 1/4 full when I do it. I am not sure that the paddles would turn if you put in too many.
I have seen the old ice cream makers at TS and GS and they are really cheap.

firemansmom

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clipped on: 11.21.2006 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 11.21.2006 at 10:49 am

My Nov WIP Pic

posted by: haziemoon on 11.07.2006 at 04:02 am in Garden Junk Forum

I started this first thing this morning, after reading the Nov WIP. Was so glad I had a birdhouse waiting me already!

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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door on big birdhouse
clipped on: 11.07.2006 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2006 at 05:39 pm

Any special tips and techniques you want to share? Here's mine.

posted by: silvamae on 10.23.2006 at 02:13 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I'm sure some of you are aware of this - but maybe there's someone out there who will get some benefit from this technique; Using Nylon Mounting Mesh. I use this when I am working on something vertical, especially something large, and if I am installing something away from the studio (such as the fireplace I posted photos of). I took an old cutting board, laid a large baggie over one side of it, taped down the baggie edges. Cut a piece of mesh in the shape you need, lay it down on top of the baggie, glue your pieces to the mesh, wait until the glue sets, carefully pull up the mesh/mosaic, and install it. Or lay it flat, glue side up, and let completely dry. Stack these up until you have the required amount, and then install. You can cut the mesh in any shape, and if you are doing a random pattern, you can cut the mesh into wavy random patterns so that the installation won't show square patterns. I started using this mesh for glass vases; I was wasting too much time waiting for the Welbond to dry. I cut the mesh to exactly fit the vase, followed the above procedure, then just wrapped the mesh/mosaic around the vase and pressed into place. I buy mine from Wits End Mosaic (www.WitsEndMosaic.com). Please, all you talented people, post your helpful tidbits here!

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clipped on: 10.23.2006 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2006 at 09:09 pm

Blue Pots 3 - FINISHED and Planted

posted by: rosemarythyme on 10.21.2006 at 05:07 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Okay ladies, here they are: Worked like a fiend to get them painted and planted. Thanks for all your advice about paint. BUT my goal was to give them an old world look. So any weathering that occurs because they didn't cure properly is fine by me. I'll see how they fare over the winter. And if need be, I'll repaint in the spring. I painted the larger pot and planted pansies in two pots. The tallest column has lantana planted in the small pot. I put in the mums between the colums and a few pansies (I bought WAY too many of those and have had to spread them throughout the beds). I made a little boo boo on one of the pavers--blue paint! but might paint the tops of all of them. Oh the paint: acrylic craft paints, copper, gold metallic, cad lt. red, pearl emerald green, thalo blue, cobalt blue, same blue as my shutters (that was the first coat watered down), yellow ocre. Anyway, layers and layers and layers. Hope you enjoy
View my photo

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RE: choosing grout color (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: stxmona on 02.28.2005 at 08:07 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here is another site for grouting color ideas....

Here is a link that might be useful: Grouterizer

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clipped on: 10.04.2006 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2006 at 10:21 pm

RE: cast iron birdbath (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nmgirl on 09.14.2006 at 07:58 am in Garden Junk Forum

I've rescued a lot of rusty metal so I'll share what works well for me. If the metal hasn't rusted through and made holes you're in luck. Be sure to work in a covered area, you don't want moisture on the peice while you cleaning it up. Also have eye and breathing protection while you're working the rusty metal, you might release lead or some other nasty substance and you don't want to breathe in rust dust.
First go over the birdbath with a wire brush and remove all the loose scale. Don't power down and try to get to bare metal, that's not necessary. Just remove the loose flakey stuff. After doing that, decide if you're happy with the surface texture, it'll probably be a little rough, but maybe not. If you want the surface smoother gently sand it down with sandpaper designed for metal. Be aware of how much surface you're removing, you can severely weaken the object and/or make holes in it. Brush off the surface, I use an old paintbrush, to remove dust and any rust you've loosened.
Now comes the painting part. I use Rustoleum Primer for Rusty Metal. It's designed to stabilize rusty metal and stop/inhibit further rusting on the object. It's a rust colored, smelly (reminds me of fish oil), thick paint. Be sure you have excellent ventilation! The stuff stinks to high heaven and gives off fumes as it reacts with the rust. It also dries slowly, very slowly. Don't get in a hurry with this stuff cuz' it'll foul you up every time. That's the voice of experience there folks! I recommend applying two coats and allow for some cure time before applying your pretty surface paint. It's worth the wait.
One last thing, wear gloves, old clothes and protect surrounding surfaces because this paint stays where it lands! I also buy a pack of chip brushes or dollar store brushes and use a fresh one everytime I paint. It's not worth the effort of trying to clean the brush, just pitch it and start with a fresh one.
Hope this helps and good luck!

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clipped on: 10.02.2006 at 08:17 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2006 at 08:17 pm

RE: a new twist on glass flowers (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: adina72 on 09.28.2006 at 03:34 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Here's a Direct Link...maybe this will help.

Here is a link that might be useful: Glass Flowers

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clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 05:36 pm

RE: Mosaic Seed Box (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: curbdiver1954 on 09.27.2006 at 06:56 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Fabulous work, Hazie!! Know what you mean about not finding the pretty plates, etc. at TS's....finally found a couple of TS's that get fairly decent amounts of them ($1 each, though!!). Bigger problem is both of them are over an hour from me. SOmeone in our city must also be grabbing them, the others are in more affluent smaller cities, so maybe there aren't many mosiacists there. BTW, I've got some HL half marbles here - what color did you run out of?? I'll check my stash.

Maria - here's my trick: I use the edge and/or corner pieces of the tiles to keep the edges straight and fairly smooth. For convenience sake I keep two containers beside me when I am cutting or breaking tile or plates. One holds the edge pieces and the other has the middle pieces.

HTH

Pat

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clipped on: 09.28.2006 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2006 at 05:29 pm

Some answers to mosaic questions

posted by: cait1 on 09.22.2006 at 06:22 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I'm getting set to do some mosaic pieces for out in the garden and the question about mosaicing on wood has been raised. So I decided to see if there was anything about it on the web and came across this site that answered quite a few questions on mosaicing. The mosaics I want to do are vertical pieces and it seems that there's not a problem to do those kinds on wood as long as it's sealed, and they used my glue of choice, Weldbond - but used as a sealer also. Yeah. Anyway, I'm including a link to the site for anyone else who may want to have a look. There's a link on this site to a gallery and there are some pretty nice mosaics on it, too.
Enjoy,
Cait

Here is a link that might be useful: mosaic q&a

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clipped on: 09.22.2006 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2006 at 10:21 pm

RE: setting glass in concrete ala stepping stones... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: glassquilt on 05.20.2006 at 08:34 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Cut glass, put face down on 'sticky' paper, put this in the botton of greased mold. Put 1/4" or so of sandmix over your glass. Jiggle and/or tap the mold to get rid of air bubbles. Because there are no large pieces of stone in the mix the holes should be filled. Immediately mix regular concrete and put over the sandmix.

Hint from personal experience: DO NOT pour all of the sandmix onto the glass at once. Place sandmix over glass gently. I had my glass pushed off center. Didn't find it out until I turned the stepping stone out of the mold. The design was all the way to one side with no border on that side and a huge border on the opposite side.

The glass will not float to the top.

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clipped on: 09.15.2006 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 09.15.2006 at 11:45 am

little swing

posted by: payd6 on 09.11.2006 at 10:23 pm in Garden Junk Forum

here is a little swing for the garden. made from two 1/2" thick hearts, and some 1" lengths of wood. the back of the heart is slightly squared off to hold the back 3 pieces. the bottom two outside pieces are slightly longer to drill a small hole to thread the string or jute. i use jute to hang from a short shepherd's hook. :)

Image link: little swing (51 k)

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clipped on: 09.12.2006 at 08:11 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2006 at 08:11 pm

looks like tin,,,,

posted by: payd6 on 09.09.2006 at 10:29 pm in Garden Junk Forum

have you ever tried this? hot glue a design on wood, then prime, paint and drybrush another colour over the raised design. I think it looks like tin, my church birdhouse turned out cool.

Image link: looks like tin,,,, (61 k)

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clipped on: 09.10.2006 at 08:45 am    last updated on: 09.10.2006 at 08:45 am

RE: ? about making the totems (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: easystitches on 09.09.2006 at 04:13 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Here's a little short fat one I made last week while I was trying to avoid weeding. Jill

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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clipped on: 09.09.2006 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2006 at 05:25 pm

RE: ? about making the totems (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: use2bcapecodr on 01.11.2006 at 07:47 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I'm in a hurry...DHs on his way home for dinner and son-inlaw in installing a toilet in one of the bathrooms...but has anyone mentioned sealing each piece very well with the silicone? Otherwise they will get moisture inside and sweat!

And a tip: Windex cleans the excess off of the glass very well.

Here are my favorite ones!

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

~Sandy~

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clipped on: 09.09.2006 at 05:24 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2006 at 05:24 pm

RE: ? about making the totems (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: pesky1 on 01.09.2006 at 03:33 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I make a lot of them on copper stakes. This one my MIL took...Image hosted by Photobucket.com

These are 3 that I sold...

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

I sold this one within seconds of putting it out!

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

I glue a copper fitting (often called reducing fittings, they're bigger on one end than on the other) into the bottom of the lowest piece. Then this sits securely onto the copper rod, without wiggling. You can see it sticking out of the bottom of the blue/silver totem. I use Plumbers GOOP for gluing the copper to glass...DO NOT USE GE SIL II for that, it won't work!!

I don't make them over 24" usually, if I do, then I put them on lower copper stakes.

Just the other day I checked at Lowes, and 10 foot copper stakes were going for $7.09. I almost croaked! At Christmas time they were under $5.50. That was for the 1/2" copper. I like to put the totem stakes on 3/4" copper, but it's around $10 a piece now. Yikes!!

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clipped on: 09.09.2006 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2006 at 05:22 pm

Finally got it hung!!!

posted by: curbdiver1954 on 08.23.2006 at 07:30 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Now if I can just get the bed under it cleaned out and re-planted so the cabinet (May POTM) can move under it... The frame was DD's as a teen, the original mirror shattered and the frame broke about 10 years ago (no, I didn't think to keep the mirror pieces, @#^%*^% it!) For some reason, I've been picking up odd bits of broken mirrors for the past 2-3 years. Found a whole box of mirror squares for $1 at GS and decided to do this with the whole shebang. Finally got it up on the side of our shed (slated for re-painting this fall).



  

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clipped on: 08.31.2006 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2006 at 11:15 pm

RE: Help! I never broke a plate before... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: curbdiver1954 on 08.30.2006 at 11:33 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Mimi - I have pretty good luck using my dremel with a tile bit to get a fairly precise cut close to the thick part. By cutting the rim off first (right before the raised part starts), then go to the opposite side of the thick part and cut it off. You'll end up with a nearly intact ring of that thick part, as well as the rim being in a separate ring - slowmedown uses hers for adding texture to other mosiacs and to add a smooth curve. Then you can use nippers to nip off pieces of the rim the size you want. The center you can cover with a towel or put into a paper bag and whack 'em. If it has a fairly intricate pattern you want to use in fractured form for the table top, you can also put a piece of contact paper on the decorative side before you break the center. Then just pick off a piece at a time to put on your table top.

HTH,
Pat

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clipped on: 08.31.2006 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2006 at 12:28 pm

RE: Want to make a mosaic flower pot (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: SthrnTami on 07.15.2003 at 01:17 pm in Garden & Flower Crafts Forum

I've been doing mosaics for about 6 years, after taking a weekend workshop from a seasoned professional. Here are a few tips:
There are 4 things to consider in making a mosaic:
*The base (the pot)
*The tesserae (tile bits, broken plates, etc.)
*The adhesive (I prefer Weldbond or Liquid Nails Small Projects)
*Grout (I use various colors of SANDED grout mixed with acrylic admix, purchased from hardware store.)

1. Make sure your base is clean and dry. If you are not going to mosaic the whole pot, you might want to paint the rest with Patio Paints, then seal with an acrylic spray sealer.
2. Select and prepare tesserae. Go ahead and break up your tile or plates. Strive for some uniformity of size. (I usually re-break any piece that is larger than a quarter.) To protect the surface of the piece you are breaking, and to prevent shards from flying around, place the tile/plate between old rags before hitting with a hammer. Wear goggles!
3. Glue tesserae to base. Place a good sized dollop of adhesive in the middle of the tesserae, then press it firmly to the base. You should be using enough adhesive so that a small amount squeezes out around the edges. Use a toothpick to remove excess adhesive between tesserae, if it rises above the level of the tesserae (you need to have room for the grout). Do not place your tesserae all the way to the edge of the base. You need to leave enough space to bevel the grout to the edge. After all the tesserae are in place, allow the piece to dry overnight.
4. Grouting. Use masking tape to tape off pot edges. Mix up the grout, using water or acrylic grout additive. Add the liquid slowly, stirring well, until the mixture is about the consistency of thick oatmeal. Allow the mixture to "slake" (let it sit about 5-10). While the grout sits, make sure your tesserae are clean of adhesive. A one-sided razor is handy for scraping off bits of adhesive. You may want to spray the pot with water before beginning to grout, or the grout will tend to dry out too quickly. Scoop the grout onto the piece, and work the grout between all the pieces of tesserae. You may want to wear gloves. Bevel the grout to the edges. Scrape off any excess grout and then let it sit for about 10" to allow the grout to begin to harden. Using a well-wrung out rag or sponge, carefully clean the grout off the surface of the tesserae. You dont want to use too much water or pressure, or you will remove the grout from between the pieces as well. Cleaning the tesserae is a two-step process. First you "release" the tesserae, simply uncovering all the excess grout, but not being too concerned about the haziness. Q-tips are handy for cleaning around awkward shaped pieces, such as glass nuggets or stones. After all the tesserae are uncovered, and your grout edges are smoothed, allow the piece to rest for 10"-15". Then, go back and carefully polish each tesserae with a dry or almost dry, soft cloth. If you notice any dips or pinholes in your grout, patch before it completely hardens. If a haze remains on your tile surfaces, you may use vinegar or sulfamic acid to remove it.
5. Finishing: Carefully remove the masking tape. Tap down any bits of grout that were raised by lifting the tape.
Scrape excess grout into trash can. Wipe out bowl and spoon or other utensils with paper towels. Then rinse outside. Never, ever, rinse grout down your household drain. It can block pipes! Allow your piece to dry at least 24 hours undisturbed, out of direct sunlight. Its a good idea to seal your project with grout sealer to prevent stained grout.

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clipped on: 08.13.2006 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 08.13.2006 at 10:28 am

RE: question about making mosaics and totems (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bright199 on 01.14.2006 at 04:39 pm in Garden Junk Forum

You can do a search and pull up all kinds of info....But we don't mind giving it out again. But we want to see pictures of what you create. Supplies depend on what you are mosaicing. If it's concrete I use thinset morter to attach the pieces. Everything else I use GE Silicone II clear for windows and doors. The thickness of the amount used depends on the pieces you are attaching. Especially with broken china. Some pieces may need more glue or thinset to make them sit more even. If the adhesive ozzes out I usually clean up the extra. If you grout that will cover it up as well. I buy my groute and sealer at Lowes. The grout is a presanded grout by Laticrete. I have found a new sealer I love!! By "Tileguard" called "One step grout sealer" (Wall and Counter) It's a spray on sealer. It is sooooo easy to use and the can lasts forever. I have put two coats on the projects I've done so far. I put each coat on pretty good then wipe up any puddles with an old teeshirt. It evaporates off of the tile or china. hope this info helps.

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clipped on: 08.13.2006 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 08.13.2006 at 10:25 am