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RE: Switchplates and Outlet Covers (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sandra_zone6 on 01.04.2011 at 12:18 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have replaced most of our light switch plates with wood ones that match our trim work. For the outlet covers, I like them to fade in to the walls so I just use the cheapy ones, prime them, put a few coats of matching paint on them and then cover them with a matte poly coat or two to keep the paint from chipping.

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clipped on: 05.10.2014 at 08:17 am    last updated on: 05.10.2014 at 08:17 am

RE: Pendant light size 'rules' in relation to island. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: palimpsest on 02.21.2012 at 11:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would draw this out yourself but I would want between two and three "widths" of whatever pendant you chose to fit between them, as a minimum based upon how they sit on the overall length of the peninsula. I think three + widths is good unless you are going for an overscaled look

You could go very small with something that was spherical and elaborate (like the Schoenbeck crystal orbs, not that I am suggesting them) and go larger as you get simpler, but I would generally want the breathing room I mentioned above.

So if you had a 6" orb: there would be 30 inches between them because 3" of each orb would be inside the 36" boundary. If you went with a 12" orb they would have 24" between them which would be the absolute max I would go with a big plain globe, (12" is Big")...8" orbs would give 28" in between.

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clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 04:59 pm

RE: Pendant Lights (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brickton on 09.19.2011 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dealer? Oh no, internet. $138 @lighting direct, probably available a bunch of other places too. (click for link)

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clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 03:32 pm

RE: Signed on the dotted line for new kitchen (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: zeitgast on 03.02.2014 at 10:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Installed a silgranite but haven't used much yet. No cracks and bought local to check before installing.

Used Phillips EW Powercore 3000 k LED UCLs. Love them-- here is a bad picture. Didn't need a light rail to conceal b/c they are about 3/4 in thick and fit under cabinet nicely.

They mount in the front and provide good task lighting on counter in addition to ambient lighting on b/s. I have them on a dimmer switch too. Learned all that and more here on GW. One thing I learned too late was to install outlets lower and horizontal. I didn't like the idea if cords hanging down so skipped plugmold.

Here is a link that might be useful: UCL link

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clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 11:23 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 11:24 pm

RE: Experience with Crown Point cabinets? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 07.31.2008 at 10:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Danielle,
I think a lot of people are too far... it will be your contractor that will measure for you. When Mark came to measure the contractors were here and so essentially they measured together so that they were on the same page.

The contractors asked for extra depth on the back of the cabinet so that they could scribe them to fit the out of plumb wall. It all seemed to work out fine. The cabinets came in perfectly with one small exception. When they were delivered I inspected everything before the delivery person left. I noticed that on the spice door cabinet there were three hinges (to support the weight of the spices). On the door on the opposite side of the range there were two hinges. I felt the doors should match. I called Mark, he agreed and had the delivery person return the door. They added the hinge and fed ex'd it back to me and I had it a few days later.

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clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 08:36 am    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 08:36 am

Apron front sink - granite around front/sides - pics?

posted by: Ellen1234 on 08.11.2013 at 03:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,

I'm finalizing the granite templating. I have a stainless apron front sink that sticks out about an inch from the cabinet base. The granite overhang is generally 1.5".

First, I'm debating b/w flush mount or a positive reveal. I was originally leaning towards a positive reveal, but then heard about food collecting on the sink edge and that a flush mount would be easier to wipe food off into the sink.

Second, I'm wondering how to have the granite cut towards the front side of the sink since if the granite is just cut straight across, it would come out further than the sink.

Any chance I could see some pics of how you all have done it? And how you like it?

Also, just thought I'd ask, I know the standard overhang is 1.5". But I'm wondering, for the sides of the cabinet runs which return to the wall, does anyone do something like a 1" overhang instead, or does everyone pretty much stick with the 1.5". I wasn't sure what the norm was (given there is no door/drawer/handle issue on the sides).

Thanks!

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 05:00 pm

RE: Is this counter too busy to use in entire kitchen?? (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: lcskaisgir on 10.10.2013 at 04:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

My new finds today...first one is a quartzite called Naica. I don't know anything about it yet. I've never heard of it. Second one is another superwhite.

Going back w/cabinet doors tomorrow to see what looks best. Then I MUST make a decision because everything I find that I like keeps getting bought! And if I don't I continue to torture myself...

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clipped on: 10.10.2013 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2013 at 10:08 pm

RE: It's here and I love it! Diamond MOP tiles. (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: sanjuangirl on 10.08.2013 at 10:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Jacqueline,

Thank you. I really love my backsplash". The grout is Polyblend non-sanded grout in Snow White.

The mop is from 'the Glass tile store and it's the mini brick pattern. The frame and liners are from a local Designer. It's Calcutta marble. The Chrysanthemum pattern is tricky. It doesn't come in squares, it fits together like puzzle pieces. It makes it more beautiful, but also more expensive since you must buy more than you need to complete the pattern and you must get a master tile setter. It was exacting work and took twice as long to do the famed piece as the entire rest of the 50 square foot bs.

Here's a picture of it going together. I used 5 pieces. Each piece is basically 3 flowers. I have 2 3/4 flowers left but had to have the 5th piece to complete the puzzle. The framed piece is 18x 25 inside the frame.

Good luck! Please send me pictures of what you end up doing!

Gina

_____________

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clipped on: 10.08.2013 at 03:30 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2013 at 03:30 pm

RE: Help with Testing Stone Sample (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: romy718 on 10.05.2013 at 09:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't speak to the staining on the side of the stone but if the top did not etch with vinegar & lime juice, it doesn't sound like your stone is marble. I recently did a similar test (red wine, vinegar, ketchup, mustard, orange slices) with several different marble samples (honed & polished Danby & Calacatta) and they all etched very quickly. Staining is not the same as etching. Etching is almost colorless. The etch marks on the polished pieces appear whiter than the marble and feel slightly rough. I'm not sure if I can feel them on the honed marble. Sealers will not prevent etching on marble. I'd feel good about your test results.

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clipped on: 10.06.2013 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 10.06.2013 at 12:07 am

Help with Testing Stone Sample

posted by: CT_Newbie on 10.05.2013 at 07:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi! I brought home a sample of Princess White which they called a granite (in other places online, I've seen it called a quartzite). It is polished. We might have had a slight preference for honed. I tested red wine, red wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar, olive oil, spaghetti sauce and lime on the polished side for a few hours. While the polished side wiped clean, some of the red wine ran down the side. That part stained.

Is that normal since the cut on the side is "unfinished" and I would have the countertop sealed? Or is the side part, the same as honed and likely to be a concern? I hear that most quarries put some sort of resin on the stone before selling it to the stone yard. Is that why the polished side did not stain? Also, is staining the same as etching or literally, is there a groove in the stone with etching.

I will also reapply the food and leave it overnight and see how the stone does. Will also try the glass test once DH has finished a bottle of beer. However, the sample was clearly cut so there isnt really a jagged edge. I'd like to know if it is really more like a slightly harder marble than a granite. The other stone we were considering was White Fantasy which was called a quartzite

Anything else I should try?

Thank you for your thoughts

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clipped on: 10.06.2013 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 10.06.2013 at 12:06 am

RE: Do you like your Viscont White granite counters? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: akchicago on 09.23.2013 at 06:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Beautiful. I love it. I googled other images of this granite, and they vary a lot, but all lovely.

I looked up this granite's "absorption rate". That tells you how easily it will stain and whether you need to seal it. So, "Viscon Granite" (which appears to be the correct name) has an absorption rate of .2% - .25%. Pretty good! To give you comparisons, granites that are prone to staining and needing re-sealing several times a year, such as Imperial White and Kashmir White, have absorption rates of .35% - .5%. Granites that do not even need to be sealed and are bullet-proof like your perimeter Black Pearl is .1% - .15%. Viscon granite may need to be sealed once year, and maybe not at all.

Just an aesthetic point: you mentioned using this granite and Black Pearl. Just be a little cautious with the combination. Depending on your kitchen size and layout, two granites may be too much going on. I don't know your kitchen; I am just giving a friendly heads up.

Here is a link that might be useful: List of Absorption Rates

This post was edited by akchicago on Mon, Sep 23, 13 at 18:13

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clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 10:59 pm

RE: Enhancer / sealer question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: StoneTech on 06.28.2013 at 12:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

A penetrating sealer can be either just that...or an "Enhancing Penetrating Sealer." The bottles will be marked as such. "Stone Tech" (not me...) makes some good one's.

Dampen an area of your slab with some water. If the color "deepens," then an enhancing sealer will make it look like that. If it doesn't change, there is no benefit and just use a standard Penetrating Sealer. Make sense?

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 11:46 pm

Backsplash for Delicatus granite

posted by: cbeth85 on 09.28.2013 at 10:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're building a new house. We went to the granite warehouse today and I fell in love with Delicatus White, which we purchased. We are going with a glazed white cabinet (which is creamy), and I think it works really well with the granite. I love the look of a light, white kitchen, but don't want one that feels "cold". I had been thinking about doing a subway tile backsplash, but they all made my cabinets look really yellow. Plus, my fiance isn't a big fan of the shiny subway tile look.

We are fairly restricted in our choices, as our builder would prefer that we purchase from one store. We tentatively picked an octagon patterned travertine tile backsplash, but now I'm afraid it might be too busy. On the other hand, the darker pieces do tie in with the grays in the granite. The alternative would be a tumbled travertine subway shape tile...but I think the beige stone seemed to have pink undertones, which I don't want.

I've included a pic of our granite slab (it reads more blue here than it is). What do you all think? Should we stick with our original pick (pic in the next post), or go with the simpler stone (that isn't the color that I love)?

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 10:38 pm

About the Design Around This threads

posted by: cawaps on 01.06.2012 at 03:18 am in Kitchens Forum

This thread is intended to be a reference for the Design Around This threads. It has information about the threads and how to create a mood board. We'll be linking to this from each new DAT thread. If you have techniques or personal stories about how you got started that you want to share, please post them here. Part of the goal of this thread is to make it easier for people to get started creating and posting their own designs.

Introduction to the "Design Around This" thread
"Design Around This" is a series of threads on the Kitchens Forum that encourage people to improve their design knowledge and skills while exchanging ideas and having fun. Everyone is welcome to participate. You don't need any experience to start; that's what the threads are for: to build experience. I'll provide some tips for getting started later in the post.

Each thread starts with a topic to "design around." This can be a house style (e.g. Tudor), a home vintage (e.g. 1920s), a material (e.g. patterned Formica) or some other common element for posters to build a design around. I maintain a long list of ideas that various people have proposed (if I ever fall off the face of the earth you can pull it off an old thread), adding new ideas as they are suggested and taking off the ones we've already done. When a thread starts to wind down, posters to the thread start to discuss the topic for the next thread and usually reach some sort of consensus. The preference has been to mix up the different types of topics (so, don't do three different home styles in a row; break it up with a material or other theme).

Then through a process of nomination/volunteering, someone gets the task of posting the new thread. It's nice if there is an educational component to the post--information and/or pictures to give participants some information about the topic. Some topics deserve a lot of background information and others not so much, but it's nice to come away from each thread with some new knowledge.

People can participate at different levels: lurker, commenter, or posting designs. One of the goals of the threads is to move people up that ladder: lurkers become commenters, commenters start doing their own designs.

Rules, such as they are
Some people like rules, some people don't. We haven't felt a need to harp on these as people have gotten more familiar with the threads and what we're trying to do. If you prefer, think of them as guidelines. Suggestions, even. General expectations.

1. Do your homework first. If the topic is Tudor Revival and you don't know what that means, go find out before offering up a design. This is part of the learning process. Once you know, you can break all the rules you want.
2. Be unique. This is your design; don't slavishly follow someone else's.
3. Put the design in context. Your design should relate to the style of the house.
4. Use a realistic budget. Go high or low, but keep it real.
5. Use materials that are actually obtainable. Custom is fine, but pipedream isn't terribly useful to people reading the thread for ideas.
6. Show your work. Explain and rationalize your choices. Many of the threads have been enhanced by some creative writing by creative posters who spin tales of homeowners and their kitchens (Power struggles! Revenge fantasies! Adultery! Divorce! It's like a soap opera!). While not mandatory, these can be quite fun.
7. Critique others and accept criticism yourself. You spend a lot of time on your design, and you deserve some constructive feedback, good and bad. Don't make criticisms personal, and don't take criticisms personally. This isn't a finished kitchens thread so nobody has to pretend to like something they don't.

History of the Design Around This thread
The idea for the design around this threads started in this post with Marcolo posting images of a couple tiles and asking why no one on GW designed around something like them (Fri, Nov 4, 2011 at 9:12). That question prompted a mini "design around this" exchange with Palimpsest posting some great designs, leading Marcolo to ask, "I wonder if this should become an ongoing feature. Pick something unusual to base a kitchen around, and then try to make it work in 'mood boards'" (Sat, Nov 5, 11 at 12:21). Everyone on that thread seemed to agree it was a great idea. Next thing you know, Palimpsest was posting the first "official" Design Around This thread, and Bob's your uncle.

Benefits of the Design Around This threads
1. They show how to look at kitchen design holistically rather than as a series of independent or sequential choices, which is one way kitchen design can go wrong.
2. Specifically, they show how to use mood boards to plan a design. Since the threads started we've seen a lot more mood boards on other Kitchen Forum threads.
3. They provide inspiration pictures that fall outside the boundaries of current trends.
4. They provide examples of how to relate kitchen style to home style.
5. They put materials that might be unpopular or unfamiliar in the spotlight and let people see them in use in good designs.

Getting Started
1. Do not be intimidated. Most of the posters on these threads had never put together a mood board before they tried it here.
2. Do your homework, especially if the topic is a home style, era or design style.
3. Collect images of stuff you want in your kitchen.
4. Finalize your choices of what you want to put in your mood board.

At this point, you have a number of different options. You can link to individual photos in your thread (see instructions for posting pics on the Kitchen Forum FAQ). Or you can use one of a number of different software tools to create a collage showing the various elements of your kitchen.

Tools include the online tool Olioboard, something as sophisticated as Photoshop, or something as simple and ubiquitous as Microsoft Word or PowerPoint.

Here's how I do it in Word (2007) (I expect to see some additional posts from others who use different tools, choose the one that works best for you):

1. Starting with a blank document, choose Insert Pictures, and select the desired image files from wherever you have them saved.
2. Format each image using Format-Position-More Layout Options-In Front of Text. This will let you drag your picture around wherever you want it.
3. Resize images as desired. Duplicate images as desired. Drag them around where you want them. Use "bring to front" and "send to back" to get them in the right order front to back.
4. You can "paint" cabinets any color you want by starting with white cabinets then inserting a rectangular shape over the top of it, increasing the transparency of the rectangle to 25-40%, and then formatting the rectangle to the desired color. The transparency lets the contours of the cabinet show through, but the color of the rectangle will dominate. It will look like the cabinets are colored. You can color other things this way, too.
5. When it looks the way you want, save it as a PDF. Then save the PDF as a JPEG. I think you need Acrobat Standard (not just Reader) to make this work. Alternatively, you can take a screen shot (prnt scrn) and paste the image in Paint, crop the frame, and save it as an image file. Someone also suggested this site as an option for converting to an image. There's additional information, including how to do a screen capture on a Mac, here.
6. Once you have your board as an image file, it's like posting any other picture. Upload it to a photo hosting site on the Web, then link to it in your post.

Testimonial
I had never done a mood board before the Colonial Revived thread (Design Around This #2). Heck, I'd never really figured out how to post pictures. But I figured it out for that thread, and posted a design (posting links to individual elements rather than doing a collage).
I found doing a mood board to be addictive, so I kept participating. I posted a few designs on the 1920s thread, and never looked back.

I like to think my designs have improved, and my skills putting together a mood board certainly have.

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 12:03 am    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 12:03 am

RE: Pros, please share illustrated lessons? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jakuvall on 09.20.2013 at 09:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Not going to publicly dis a clients taste. I never see a comment in a reveal like "what were you thinking?"
and I really don't have pics of the few that got away.

As to context- only the occasional job where the architecture dictates the style- more often the clients décor and home details do.
So it's fine to turn your raised ranch into a Tuscan villa, we're Americans and do what we want, besides the US is the home of Kitsch (hey want an Elvis room? :) Just be consistent.

Absolutely the single most useful thing I learned in design school-
never fall in love with your design- don't let a great idea ruin a design, use it another time

Other
-step back and see the whole, get your nose out of the details now and then, especially finishes, just remember "God is in the details" (Mies)
-it's hard to get hurt with understatement- would you wear that combination to a formal occasion?
-understand what mathematicians mean by elegant
-from GW: only one clown
-Be cautious with elevations- will you ever really see that view (often-no)- they can tyrannize you
-symmetry originally meant balanced- bilateral symmetry means equal
-equal can bet boring- look for harmony
-bilateral symmetry is more important on uppers, the further you get away from the center the less it matters
-lining up objects in rooms- if you're doing the glass house in New Canaan by Johnson and do it that well then fine- if not, get over it.
-challenge all of your ideas regularly
-there are more kinds of contrast than light/dark-use them

Kitchen specific
-Avoid cabinets under 15" wide
-never leave less than 8" open at the top
-3" molding to the ceiling is wimpy
-more than 6" to an 8ft ceiling is overkill
-there are more choices than "crown" but be careful, understand molding design
-architecture is about space, give things room
-don't fill every inch of every wall
-give door casings at least 2" unless there is absolutely no choice, same for windows except to resolve backsplash finish (good reason to decide the splash eh)
-DO NOT line up uppers and lowers, it is amateurish and doesn't work
-don't place a bifold susan next to a range that sticks out
- fit the storage to the items and avoid stacking, drawers are nice but convenience comes first.
-for corners do the math before deciding something "takes up too much space", it usually doesn't
-avoid morgue tables
- avoid oversize runs of counter - horizontal surfaces without a dedicated purpose will attract things you don't want
-decide what goes on the counter ahead of time and locate it, find a place for the rest or it will migrate
-adding a 10 foot addition does not automatically improve a kitchen, just makes it bigger and costs more-plan it all ahead of time
-do you really need all that "stuff"

-There are no rules but follow the guidelines
-Everyone has some form of OCD- entertain it
-Fit the job to the client
-If a client doesn't do something I don't like I'm not doing my job properly"
-Don't scratch things that don't itch.

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clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 12:42 pm

RE: Custom Drawer Inserts (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: lbruce87 on 09.21.2013 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Check out this blind corner pullout from Wood Hollow Cabinets. This is so much better than any lazy susan. It comes all the way out for easy access and isn't that bad to install either. It is a little pricey at 425.00 plus shipping, but I searched all over the web and the price is at least 40% less than I found it anywhere else. Link below is to Ebay listing. It comes in 3 sizes also and will fit most blind corners.

Here is a link that might be useful: Hafela Blind Corner Pullout

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clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 11:14 am

Custom Drawer Inserts

posted by: meyersdvm on 06.05.2013 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I learned about Wood Hollow's custom drawer inserts from this forum. I ordered from their eBay site last Wednesday and my drawer inserts arrived very well packaged yesterday.

I love that they match my wood drawer interiors and leave no wasted space. They are well made and very reasonably priced at $35 each for cutlery and utensil inserts and $25 for a fluted spice insert. My spice drawer is in a bank of base cabs that are only 18 inches in depth, so standard inserts would not have worked.

Spice drawer
Utensil drawer
Cutlery drawer

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutlery Insert

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clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 11:13 am

RE: Are these contractor estimates reasonable? Or wishful thinki (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: foodonastump on 09.20.2013 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sounds really high to me offhand. The linked site gives estimates for various aspects of work. I checked out a few for my area (it's zip code based so that helps) and they seemed in the ball park for what I'd expect. Maybe it can help you decide if the estimate is close or if they're trippin'.

Here is a link that might be useful: Homewyse

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clipped on: 09.21.2013 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 09.21.2013 at 11:12 am