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HAVE: Adopt a Milkweed newbie - Part 2

posted by: kchd on 08.26.2013 at 06:19 pm in Seed Exchange Forum


Milkweed newbies: Have you ever thought about planting milkweed (Asclepias species) to provide habitat for monarchs in your own backyard?

Butterfly enthusiasts: Do you wish more gardeners would plant milkweeds (Asclepias sp.) in their gardens to support declining monarch populations?

Here's where we come together!

This is a variation of previous adopt-a-newbie swaps, but the focus of this swap is for milkweed seeds. This exchange will run through the end of the year, as milkweed growers have seeds become available that they want to share.

"Newbies" are considered to be gardeners who do not already have milkweed growing in their gardens.

As recently pointed out in a post by docmom, Monarch butterflies are currently in serious decline. Here in the US, where they spend their breeding season, Monarchs are directly faced with habitat destruction. Monarch butterflies exclusively use milkweeds (Asclepias sp.) as their host plants, upon which they lay eggs and their caterpillars feed on the milkweed until they pupate. The planting of milkweeds in home gardens can greatly aid in providing much needed habitat for their conservation. In addition to serving as host plants for monarchs, milkweeds also provide nectar for many other butterflies, bees, and other pollinators.

Costs to the Milkweed Newbie Adoptee:
--will pay the postage to the person sending them seeds (or plants) in advance.
--"seeds only" are the easiest and cheapest postage. Sending a pack of milkweed seeds, in a bubble envelope or otherwise wrapped for protection, will cost approx. 2 to 5 first class stamps, depending on the packaging.

Milkweed Newbie Adoptees:
--Please make sure your email address is enabled to "show to members" on your member page. You need to do this in order to be put on the list so that you can be contacted.
--you can list any special requests for certain milkweed species, although there are no guarantees that species will be available.
--sign up by posting here, in this thread.
--include your zone & state.

Traders who want to adopt a milkweed newbie:
--Please pick someone who lives in a hardiness zone where your milkweed species will grow and survive.
--POST HERE FIRST announcing who you are adopting BEFORE you contact the newbie.
--then email the newbie, introducing yourself, providing your screen name, zone, state, and offer to adopt them.
--work out how many stamps they need to send to you to cover the cost of postage and packaging.

The host/hostess(es) will (that's me, and other helpful volunteers):
--compile and post lists of the newbies+zone+state every so often.
--check through recent posts and remove those who have been adopted from the new lists when compiling.

Newbies who get contacted for adoption:
--check back here to see if you have been adopted.
--check the Rate & Review forum regarding the person who contacted you. This is found at: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/raterev/
--proceed with the adopt, and arrange details for how much postage you need to send to pay for mailing your milkweed seeds.
--send them the postage for what they're gifting.
--After receiving the package, thank your adopter & post here too (so we know the adoption went through).
--Post good feedback / thanks for your adopter on the Rate&Review forum.

Hoping there is lots of interest in this exchange. Feel free to pass the word around to generate more interest.

Got questions? Feel free to ask them here.

Want more info on Monarchs and Milkweed? Visit Monarch Watch

This post was edited by kchd on Fri, Aug 30, 13 at 23:06

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 05:55 pm

Easy Propagation Chamber

posted by: little_dani on 10.05.2005 at 08:34 pm in Plant Propagation Forum

I make a little propagation chamber that is so easy, and so reliable for me that I thought I would share the idea. I have not seen one like it here, and I did look through the FAQ, but didn't find one there either. I hope I did not miss it, and I hope I do not offend anyone by being presumptive in posting this here.

That said....

This is what you will need.
A plastic shoebox, with a lid. They come in various sizes, any will do.


Soil less potting mix, half peat, half perlite, or whatever is your favorite medium.
A little clay pot, with the drain hole plugged with caulking or silicone. If this is a new pot, scrub it with some steel wool to be sure it doesn't have a sealer on it. You want the water to seep through it.
Rooting hormone powder or liquid, or salix solution from the willow tree.
Plant material, snippers. I am going to pot some Plectranthus (a tall swedish ivy) and a Joseph's Coat, 'Red Thread'. I already have some succulents rooted in this box. I will take them out and pot them up later, DH has a new cacti pot he wants to put them in.
You can see here, I hope, that I fill the clay pot to the top with rain water, well water, or distilled water. I just don't use our tap water, too much chlorine and a ph that is out of sight.

I pour a little of the hormone powder out on a paper plate or a piece of paper, so that I don't contaminate the whole package of powder. And these little 'snippers' are the best for taking this kind of cuttings.


This is about right on the amount of hormone to use. I try to get 2 nodes per cutting, if I can. Knock off the excess. It is better to have a little too little than to have too much.
Then, with your finger, or a pencil, or stick, SOMETHING, poke a hole in the potting mix and insert your cutting. Pull the potting mix up around the cutting good and snug.

When your box is full, and I always like to pretty much fill the box, just put the lid on it, and set it in the shade. You don't ever put this box in the sun. You wind up with boiled cuttings. YUK!

Check the cuttings every few days, and refill the reservoire as needed. Don't let it dry out. If you happen to get too wet, just prop the lid open with a pencil for a little while.
This is a very good method of propagation, but I don't do roses in these. The thorns just make it hard for me, with my big fingers, to pack the box full. All kinds of other things can be done in these. Just try it!

Janie

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.28.2013 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2013 at 08:55 pm

What is this exactly?

posted by: tdaega on 08.12.2013 at 06:23 pm in Name That Plant Forum

Can someone identify this for me? Did not anticipate it would grow so large!

Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.12.2013 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2013 at 07:24 pm

Several plants for ID

posted by: crystalsnap on 08.04.2013 at 04:26 pm in Name That Plant Forum

I have several plants that I have no clue what they are.

NOTES:

Castor bean plant, poisonous seeds
clipped on: 08.05.2013 at 01:28 am    last updated on: 08.05.2013 at 01:29 am

Interesting Olde Time-y Garden Tips

posted by: sunnibel7 on 01.27.2010 at 02:14 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

So, my Mom got me this cool little book on Old Time Gardening Wisdom (I'd go get it and tell you the exact title, but the cat is currently sound asleep on my lap...) and there are a couple of interesting tips I thought I'd share.

The first one is that instead of timing your succession plantings every two weeks, sow your 2nd planting when the first has shown 3 inches above ground. That way you can avoid having multiple sowings sprout all at once if germination is delayed by a cold snap (and probably get a more evenly spaced harvest if growth is speeded by a warm spell).

The second is to remove a few leaves from leggy seedlings when they are transplanted out. This will allow the stems to stay straight and unbroken and the roots won't have to support as many leaves all at once in the new, brighter surroundings.

And the third, and to me most risky yet exciting, is to get rid of insect infestations with a hot-water shower. This is recommended for several different pests including aphids, spider mites, cabbage loopers and other caterpillars, and some beetles. Use water that is between 135 and 140 degrees F and only expose the plant for 1-3 seconds- the thicker the leaf, the longer it can handle the water.

The first two seem like good common sense to me, and the third I will try. Probably on something I won't miss if I do parboil it by accident. Personally, I would be beside myself if I could get rid of the horrible spidermites with nothing more than hot water. And the tomatoes would get a little extra water, too!

Just thought I would share!

Sunni

NOTES:

OLD TIME GARDEN TIPS
clipped on: 01.31.2010 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2010 at 11:10 pm

Digging, Dividing and Winter Storage Of Tubers

posted by: dahliaboy on 09.04.2006 at 01:41 pm in Dahlia Forum

I just wrote an article for my local extention's horticultural news on care and storage of tubers.
I'm reprinting it here for anyone who's interested.
Dahlia Boy.

The question I get asked the most about dahlias is "How do I dig, divide, and store my tubers for the winter?" Dahlia tubers will be destroyed if they are left in the ground during the winter here in Westchester County NY, so they need to be dug up each year. After the first frost, the dahlia plants will turn black and the leaves will collapse against the stems. Once this occurs, cut the plant down to about 4 inches above the ground and attach an identifying tag to the short stalk. Use a shovel or digging fork to carefully loosen the soil around the tuber clump and gently lift it from the ground. Wash all excess soil from the clump using a garden hose being careful not to damage the thin protective skin of the tubers. Let the clumps dry overnight in the garage allowing the protective skin around the tubers to harden or "cure." This will help maintain the proper amount of moisture in the tuber during its long winters nap.

Dahlia clumps should be divided and separated into individual tubers, using a knife or a long nosed clipper. Before dividing, remove any damaged tubers and all hair roots. Each tuber must have an eye. The eyes are located near the stem of the clump. I usually first divide the clump in half, making it easier to see the eyes more clearly and divide the individual tubers. Remember that you must remove part of the stem with an eye for that tuber to be a viable tuber. That being said, on occasion I have divided a tuber without a visible eye on the stem and an eye did appear during the over-winter storage period. Next, use an indelible marker such as a Sharpie to label each tuber. Place them in a one-gallon Ziploc bag filled with one-third vermiculite and 2 tablespoons of a fungicidal powder. (You can put a number of tubers of the same variety in one bag.) Shake the contents around in a Shake n Bake fashion to get the fungicidal powder to coat the tubers. I then write the varietys name on the outside of the bag and place the bags in a cardboard box thats lined with 12-15 sheets of newspaper for insulation. The bags are left open in the box and the box is closed and placed in my attic for winter storage. Tubers do best when maintained at a temperature between 38-50 degrees so its critical to find the right area in you home, whether its the attic, garage, or an unfinished basement.

I usually check on my tubers once a month during the winter to ensure they arent rotting. If you do notice a tuber rotting, remove it from the bag so that the fungus doesnt infect the remainder of the tubers. These steps will result in a viable supply of healthy tubers for the next growing season.

Happy gardening,
Ed Bonci
MG 2006

NOTES:

Digging, dividing and storing Dahlia tubers
clipped on: 01.31.2010 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2010 at 10:27 pm

RE: WANTED: A Boost for my Immune System (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: heirloomtomato on 03.14.2006 at 12:18 am in Seed Exchange Forum

Butterflychaser:

Don't know if this will help or not. One of the most mentioned immune enhancing herbs that I hear of is astragalus membranaceus, an Asian herb. I copied and pasted a small bit of info on it.

Astragalus membranaceus:
"It is also used as a tonic to protect the liver and kidneys from toxins, to increase energy, support digestion, improve circulation and to increase the activity of white blood cells as well as the production of antibodies and interferon, a protein which appears to induce an immune response against cancer and viral disease."

Also, Oil of Oregano is a powerful herb and is usually tolerated by most people. You have to buy it in an oil or capsule form. I have taken the capsules and other then, if you burp, it tasting like pizza, I never had a problem with it. You need to make sure it is from the wild oregano plants (should say on bottle) The carvacrol content is what you are looking for. Several popular nutrition companies put it out and you can sometimes even find it at the local drugstore. Info below copied from a couple locations. Hope this helps and hope you feel better soon!
Karen

Oil of Oregano:
"Oregano is also an excellent antibacterial agent. Its volatile oils are highly active against the majority of pathogenic bacteria, including staph, strep, and E.coli.
Isomeric phenols (primarily carvacrol) in oregano oil in dilutions as low as 1/50,000 destroys Candida albicans, the Aspergillus mold, Staphylococcus, Campylobacter, Klebsiella, E.coli, Giardia, Pseudomonas, and Proteus. Another phenol constituent, thymol, boosts the immune system. These compounds also act as free radical scavengers (shield against toxins) thus preventing further tissue damage while encouraging healing.

Oil of oregano is antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiparasitic. It also has strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and is an ideal product to use for people who suffer from CFS and/or fibromyalgia. This is not regular oregano, but a wild form (wild mountain oregano, vulgare species) of the spice, which has, until recently, not been available in Canada. Do not use a substitute or oregano from a grocery store because it will have no effect. oil of oregano natural herbal supplement offers a variety of remedies

Furthermore, fungal resistance to oregano oil is exceptionally rare. Oregano is such a potent antifungal agent that it is capable of destroying even resistant fungal forms such as the mutated fungi which result from antibiotic therapy."

And From Science Daily:
"Oregano Oil May Protect Against Drug-Resistant Bacteria, Georgetown Researcher Finds"
(Washington, DC) -- "Oil from the common herb oregano may be an effective treatment against dangerous, and sometimes drug-resistant bacteria, a Georgetown researcher has found. Two studies have shown that oregano oil--and, in particular, carvacrol, one of oregano's chemical components--appear to reduce infection as effectively as traditional antibiotics. These findings were presented at the American College of Nutrition's annual meeting October 6 and 7 in Orlando, Fla."

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clipped on: 01.15.2010 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2010 at 09:01 pm

RE: WANTED: A Boost for my Immune System (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: starmoon on 03.14.2006 at 05:54 am in Seed Exchange Forum

From someone who suffers from kidney stones myself, you may want to check out gravel root, aka joe pye weed. It's a great stone busting herb. I take it in a tincture form when I feel my kidneys "backing up". Here is more info on it:

http://www.holistic-online.com/Herbal-Med/_Herbs/h242.htm

Uva ursi is another great herb to combine with gravel root for good urinary system heath. Here is a good description of how this herb works:

http://wholehealthmd.com/refshelf/substances_view/1,1525,10063,00.html

For immune system boosting, echinacea, goldenseal, vitamin C, cat's claw, ginseng and garlic are usually my first resort, but the best immune booster I am aware of is actually mushrooms, especially maitake mushrooms. Here is a great description of this mushroom's properties from ttp://www.whatreallyworks.co.uk/start/factsheets.asp?article_ID=112

Maitake: One of the more exotic immune-boosting supplements to get noticed in the West is the Maitake mushroom (Grifoloa frondosa) which grows to the size of a basketball deep in the mountains of Northeastern Japan. Highly prized for its immune-boosting properties, it has been shown to stimulate the immune response by activating the T-cells which are the bodys own defence against viruses and cancer cells. Recent animal studies revealed that combining maitake extract with chemotherapy treatment resulted in a 99% tumour shrinkage in just 14 days. Studies in the US, Japan and the UK have also shown that giving maitake extract to HIV patients can help protect the bodys disease-fighting T-cells which the HIV virus normally destroys. Said to improve liver function too, it contains powerful polysaccharides; chemicals known to boost the immune system and is currently in clinical trials with both HIV and cancer patients. The recommended dosage it between 3-7g per day.

What your friend said about the antibiotics taking down your immune system is true. You may want to either get some acidophilus supplements to restore your good intestinal bacteria (they help you fight infection, as well doing as other good things like making vitamin k) or eat lots of yogurt containing these beneficial bacteria (Stonyfield Farms is the best).

Good luck to you.

-starmoon *)

NOTES:

Medicinal herbs-immune system
clipped on: 01.15.2010 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2010 at 08:59 pm

addressing newbie and newer member issues-first draft.

posted by: chemocurl on 03.27.2008 at 11:08 am in Seed Exchange Forum

Addressing the NO Email link on their Member Page

Welcome to Garden Web and the Seed Exchange

I thought you might like to know there is no email link on your member page, thus no way to email you.

To set up your email link, just go to the bottom on any page here, and click on Member Pages
Then click on Edit your Personal Information, Page, and Preferences
You will then probably be asked to login in again.
Then check the box Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site.

That will place an email link on your member page, making it handy for members (potential traders/sharers) to easily reach you in the future.. There is no need to hunt up a post to find an email addy.

(Optional)While you are there editing, you might want to place your state abbreviation in the one box provided for the garden zone (and Location). You will find it is often beneficial if members know where you are located......even more so, if/when you maybe want to do some plant trading. It is a postage cost, days in transit, temperature/climate thing to be considered.

Happy Gardening and trading.

(signed)member name, member name abbreviation, or real first name

Suggestions?...comments

I will be adding other things here in this thread addressing sase/sasbe/BEAP as well as the importance of putting up a trade list and how to do it. I think Mother Earth News may have sent us a whole bunch of future seed addicts/enablers.
Once these are refined some, I will try and see about getting them in the FAQ here. Then they will be easily accessible for members to get, copy, and paste whatever needs addressed to new/newer members on the board.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.16.2009 at 01:30 am    last updated on: 12.16.2009 at 01:32 am