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RE: Electrolux slide-in induction range EW30IS6CJS 3 day review (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: Bree2 on 12.02.2012 at 07:49 am in Appliances Forum

Thanks for your feedback mountaineergirl!

Like you, I suspect convection is best-suited to meat; that's where it will shine. While it may be fine to do traditional baking with convection, it does produce different results...I tried a batch of cookies on convection and some of the same batch on regular bake; I found I preferred those baked without the convection setting. However, it is early days and I am still learning about this setting on this new range!

I have the slide-in and luckily found no problems (so far!!) with that separating at the top that others have mentioned; I really think careful installation is key ... you can't have any weight from the stove pulling on the countertop.


clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 10:48 pm

RE: Electrolux slide-in induction range EW30IS6CJS 3 day review (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: chac_mool on 01.01.2012 at 07:30 pm in Appliances Forum

I didn't have a problem with that (the back bridge of Corian), but it was measured at the range, not on the web. About 2" of visible corian separates back-splash from back trim, but the countertop is thicker than that (it extends under both).

There are (or were) some weird installation issues with this range, at least when it was new. First, the electrical outlet it plugs in to (behind the range) needs to be in a particular location; at some other places, it obstructs the range from being pushed back far enough toward the back wall. Also, this E'lux assumes it is being surrounded by American-style faced cabinets; if you're using European-style unfaced cabinets, you must allow a border surrounding the range front; otherwise, cabinet doors can hit overhanging surfaces of the range as you pull them in and out.

This range has been out nearly two years now (since March, 2010), I think. Presumably, any published measurement errors ought to have been corrected by now, and many installers will have become accustomed to this unit's peculiarities. But it would be smart to verify you have current documents; also, ask if your installer has actually installed this particular model before, and (if not) let them know of these oddities.


clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 10:32 pm

RE: Consumer Reports and Cabinets (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 11.02.2013 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

For frameless, you really have to have a KD that knows how to design in frameless. That wouldn't be Home Depot. HD is getting away from having anyone who knows anything in the kitchen department in favor of a centralized design office in Atlanta. I know CKDs at HD that are now selling flooring because the home office doesn't want them touching a customer's project at all. It's really sad.

As far as the Thomasville/Kraftmaid bit. Kraftmaid makes a good cabinet. I've sold them and had very few problems with them. Their customer service was always responsive if I did have an issue and their reps (when they had reps) were very helpful. I prefer the finishes from Masterbrand (Thomasville, Diamond, Kemper) over Kraftmaid.

Thomasville is also Kemper is also Diamond. the same cabinets from the same factories. Just different labels at boxing time. And their cabinetry is good also. It is NOT 3/8". It's 1/2" sides. They are made in Auburn, AL or Richmond, IN. Their finishes are top notch for a mid grade line, as is the ability to do many semi custom alterations without making the price sky high.

Their lesser featured lines, like the Martha Stewart, Kemper Echo, and Diamond Vibe, all produced at the Winchester, VA plant, are the 3/8" construction. And that's perfectly fine with framed cabinetry construction. They are all a great value for a budget customer.

I currently sell Omega fully custom cabinets, and Dynasty, (same as Embassy) their semi custom part of the equation. It's very nice how the two dovetail into each other. I can do a whole kitchen in Dynasty at the lower price point, and just do one or two custom pieces in Omega and have them build them to the same specs as the Dynasty. I've been to their plant in Waterloo, Iowa, and can truly say that every employee that I met there really cares about producing a quality product for happy customers. I'm not trying to sell anyone anything here. Just relating my personal experiences to help those with decisions to make.


Omega custom
Dynasty semi custom
Same finish
clipped on: 09.22.2014 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2014 at 12:13 pm

RE: Toilet Tank Bolts Corroding (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: NinjaPilot (Guest) on 02.05.2011 at 08:25 pm in Plumbing Forum

In any kit that you purchase...look for the bolt washer metal being different (not brass) from the brass tank bolts...I have found that the regular silvery looking metal washers may actually contribute to the bolt mushroom head erosion. I purchased solid brass washers for .45 cents a piece x 2 for $1.00 with tax, and that metal matches the brass bolts that came with my expensive ACE HARDWARE tank bolt and washer replacement kit ($7.00)...use the cheapo metal washers on the lower bowl application in the final step (double-up if you wish), in order to use up all of your hardware from any kit...may help out in the future..also, if you use drop-ins, bleach tabs, bleach liquid (sodium hypochlorite) or other chemicals in your tank...think may be eating up all of your seals and metals in your pipes and tank assemblies!!!


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:11 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:11 pm

RE: Toilet Tank Bolts Corroding (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: davidandkasie on 11.28.2007 at 11:31 am in Plumbing Forum

goto a hardware store, not a box store. or even better, check the phone book for a plumbing supply house. you can get those washers jsut about any where. heck, walmart carries them here.


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:09 pm

RE: Toilet Tank Bolts Corroding (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bus_driver on 11.26.2007 at 08:49 pm in Plumbing Forum

Do you have well water or city water supply? Actually, corrosion does occur with brass. And take a magnet with you to buy new ones. Many of those are just plated steel and will show rust in two days use. Two toilets use 6 bolts. Buy 3 packs of two bolts. Worst case, take one of your old bolts to Automotive Fasteners in Greensboro and get new similar ones.


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:07 pm

RE: Brands/Products That I'd Use Again (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: charliedawg on 09.20.2007 at 07:02 am in Building a Home Forum

For those on a limited budget...I've been very happy with our Armstrong cabinets. We get a whole lot of compliments on them. They are really sturdy. I love ours.


clipped on: 06.03.2014 at 08:54 am    last updated on: 06.03.2014 at 08:55 am

RE: Vanguard Furniture buyers BEWARE! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rmanbike on 05.25.2013 at 07:13 pm in Furniture Forum

I have said numerous times on this forum that upholstery manufactures do not make the filling that is in your seat or back cushions - pillows of your sofas or chairs. They purchase the cushion fills from various fabricators. These fabricators buy blocks of various types of foam from foam suppliers/pourers. Then they cut - sew - glue - and assemble the cushions per each upholstery manufacturers specifications.

I have also said that you should never buy upholstery that does not have the actual manufacturer name on the sofa or chair etc. You also should call the manufacturer to check that the retailer is a authorized retailer of their products. Ask the manufacturer to give clear details of the warranty and how any claims will be handled.

Doing this will help you avoid buyers remorse and warranty issues.


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:19 pm

RE: Underwear for my chairs (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 01.29.2014 at 10:25 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

back to the underwear part - I'd use a plain weave cotton duck or muslin, Because they will offer enough friction that the slipcovers won't slip around too much on them, they're not too heavy a fabric, and they won't compete by showing through if you decide on a lighter weight linen for a slipcover. Linen is notoriously sheer, even the heavy stuff.
I would use what's known as Bull Denim for the slipcover itself, it's beefy and would stand up to a lot of wear, but I wouldn't use it as the upholstery. The Bull Denim is a twill weave. Duck is a plain weave.
Sorry ineffible, but I wouldn't even try to slipcover a chair that was upholstered in vinyl. Too slippery underneath, regardless of how well your slipcover is made.
You could use a Sunbrella fabric - those are acrylics - but they don't breathe, and I guess I just like the idea of a fabric that breathes in a seaside environment.
The reason that I suggested a duck or a ticking initially is that it would give you a bit more option when your slipcover was off. Most of the cost of reupholstering is in the labor. Since upholstery grade muslin is not suitable for finished upholstery, it's suitable for putting a slipcover over, it seems a bit extravagant to upholster without giving yourself the option of using it without the slipcover.

I also wouldn't pay Pindler pricing, or even Fabricut, Kravet or any one of the other major houses pricing for a plain cotton duck. It's all coming out of one of just a handful of mills, and there is no reason to pay for the branding. A good basic 9 oz or 10 oz duck will be fine.
I'm including a link to one, in NYC. Seems weird that it's a fashion fabric source, but I've ordered from them before with great success, and they actually give a good description, which is challenging with online fabric sources, and the cotton they sell is sourced in the US.
20 yds for $200.

Here is a link that might be useful: CottonDuck


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:11 pm

RE: Underwear for my chairs (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: daisychain01 on 01.29.2014 at 06:36 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Don't do the pleather - slips will slip right off same as with leather.

I slipped our old sofa myself with cotton duck and although it was quite a few years ago, I think I remember using 10 oz and reading that anything between 7 and 10 oz was good for slips. Anything lighter didn't wear well and looked like sheeting and anything heavier didn't lay right (too stiff not enough drape). I know you're not using this for the slips themselves, but thought the same logic might apply.

I just got a Lee coverall sofa for our living room. I was actually going to get that exact style, but decided on the tight back version instead (we like a very deep seat). It is soooo comfortable and the slip is exactly the style and fabric I was hoping for. Great choice. I love Lee.


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:07 pm

RE: Underwear for my chairs (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: kswl on 01.29.2014 at 03:00 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Why not do blue and white mattress ticking underneath? It would look good when the slips are off getting washed, and would make a nice change as well. If you buy a bolt of your fabric you'd have enough for all the chairs plus any sofas. The real mattress ticking --- not designer versions---is tough as nails. We had it on two sofas as slipcovers for about 20 years, washing frequently with no fading or other problems.

I'm looking at the Lee coveralls line for our basement and want to do COM with red ticking. At least, that is what I proposed to ID!


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:04 pm

RE: Underwear for my chairs (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 01.29.2014 at 10:14 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Rather than edit I'll just add another note. If you went with upholstery grade muslin it would be appropriate, the least cost and give no abrasion factor to your slips on top, However you would always Have to have slipcovers on the chair.
If you went with a white/natural duck I'd still slipcover so that the covers could be washed, but your chairs would be dressed, so to speak, if you left the slipcovers off for any reason for awhile.


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:01 pm

RE: Underwear for my chairs (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 01.29.2014 at 10:09 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

If it were me I'd have them done in a white/natural duck. It won't show through your slipcovers, and is tightly woven enough to wear well as upholstery, and is an economical choice. If your slipcovers are linen show-through could be a real issue if you do anything patterned on the upholstery.


clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 01:01 pm

RE: Do you have a Leather or Microfiber Sofa ??? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: cheryleb on 05.28.2013 at 07:48 am in Furniture Forum

I have both. I bought a sofa and loveseat from Natuzzi about 10 years ago and two microfiber sofas. The leather has become checked and worn over time and even though I love the shape and style, it is starting to look shabby. This was the higher end line so it shouldn't have been a lower quality issue. The microfiber sofas are in the FR where my son entertained friends. They are about the same age and although not used nearly as much, they could almost pass for new. They were not the upgraded fabric but the basic one that was on the floor at the store.

My parents bought similar microfiber sofa/loveseat and paid significantly more for an upgraded fabric and their doesn't look anywhere near as good as mine. Interesting.


clipped on: 07.13.2013 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 07.13.2013 at 09:46 am

RE: Do you have a Leather or Microfiber Sofa ??? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mcgillicuddy on 04.17.2007 at 02:39 pm in Furniture Forum

We have a leather couch and a microfiber daybed, which are regularly inhabited by a naughty and rambunctious dog and two kitties.

The leather holds up better against dirt, stains, hair, and cat scratches, while the microfiber holds up better against dog scratches.

Given the variation in quality and durability between different types of leathers and microfibers, the only way to really be sure is to get test swatches of the exact fabrics you're considering and test them in various "real-life" situations. Otherwise, there's no way to predict how the fabric or materials will fare.


clipped on: 07.13.2013 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 07.13.2013 at 09:45 am