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Finished Kitchen (+1 Year)- White / Marble / Mahogany / Soapstone

posted by: i_m_fletcher on 03.01.2012 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Everyone-

Some of you might recall me, I posted my almost finished kitchen about a year ago. We recently had some new photos taken when our architect hired a pro for the day for a shoot. I figured I'd pay everyone a visit and share the new photos since my old ones were incomplete. The old thread is to old to be revived, so I'll try to repost the old original post below my new one for context as well. Hope you enjoy!

As I posted in my original thread, thank you to everyone who has posted here - your amazing example kitchens as well as your willingness to answer any questions was THE source for our ideas.

Money Shot:

Kitchen Island:

Sink View:


Fridge / Pantry:

Fridge / Pantry Revealed:

Bar Area:

Pantry / Freezer:


Kitchen Design Summary:

  • Cabinets: Painted Maple built by local cabinet maker - local is a suburb southwest of Boston. Inset doors, self closing drawers. The finish is a sprayed on pre-cat lacquer that is tinted to match the BM Ivory White color.

  • Cabinet Options: Includes pull out trash drawer wtih two cans to the right of sink. "Magic Corner" pullout in corner of L perimeter cabinets. Wicker baskets underneath microwave for fruit / vegetable storage. Vertical dividers in cabinet above oven. Spice drawer insert in top left island drawer. Knife drawer insert in top drawer to the left of rangetop. Dish drawer inserts (pegboard with adjustable plate holding pegs) in island drawers. Utensil and gadget dividers in misc drawers. Specialized rack on dry good cabinet that allows for storage on dor but puts weight in cabinet carcass.

  • Colors: Walls are Ben Moore Pittsfield Buff (HC-24) and the trim and cabinets are Ben Moore Ivory White (925).

  • Countertops: 3cm Calacatta Ruggine on perimeter, 5cm Utile Mahogany (edge grain butcher block) for island, 3cm Minas soapstone for pantry. Slab backsplash on perimeter is 2cm Calacatta Ruggine and slab backsplash for pantry is 2cm Minas soapstone.

  • Hardware: Mix of Restoration Hardware including Gillmore cup pulls (4in), Gillmore Knobs, Traditional Clear Glass Knobs and Bistro Pulls (8in and 6in). All hardware is polished nickel.

  • Lighting: Pendants are RH Clemson pendants in 14" size. General recessed lights are Cree CR6 LED lights. Oversink recessed lights are Cree LR4 LED lights. Undercabinet lights are xenon dimable light bars. In cabinet lights are xenon puck lights. all lights are dimmable.

  • Floor: Rift sawn white oak stained to match existing floor (seen in family room pictures.) Floor has radient heating underneath, hence the need for rift sawn.

  • Bar Stools: Pier One Mason Bar Stool in chocolate.

  • Rangetop: Wolf 48" gas open burner with grill and griddle. Model #RT484CG

  • Ventilation: Wolf 48" Pro Range insert in custom wood enclosure. Model #462212. Fan is 1200 cfm remote blower located on far side of garage (~20 ft connected by 10" duct.) Model #801642.

  • Ovens: Wolf E series double oven - convection on top, regular on bottom. Model #DO302FSTH

  • Dishwasher: Miele Optima II mounted to the right of the sink. Model #G2472SCVi

  • Fridge: Subzero 27" Integrated Fridge only - located on sink wall next to paired wall cabinet for dry good storage behind island. Model #700TRLH.

  • Pantry Fridge: Subzero 24" Undercounter Integrated Fridge located in pantry area on wall with freezer. Model #UC24R-LH.

  • Freezer: Subzero 27" Integrated Freezer only - located in pantry area. Model #700TFIRH.
  • Wine Cooler: Subzero Integrated full length wine fridge located in pantry area. Model #427GLH.

  • Microwave: Sharp R530 countertop microwave installed in custom enclosure within island. Cubbie for microwave is ~26" x 21" high.

  • Sink/Disposal: Franke Bowl and Half - model #PRX-120. Insinkerator Evolution Excell 1hp disposal. Bar sink is Franke KBX-110-13.

  • Faucets: Main sink faucet is Rohl U.4702 in polished nickel. Bar sink faucet is Rohl U.4759 in polished nickel. Filtered water faucet is Rohl A1365 in polished nickel.

  • Misc Appliances: Air Switch is Rohl polished nickel button with Insinkerator switch. Water filter is Watts Premiere UF3 from Costco.

  • Backsplash: once installed the backsplash will be Ann Sacks Glace tiles in Ice. The tiles will be 1x6 sticks in a running bond pattern.

  • Ceiling Speakers: 10" loudspeakers from Monoprice linked into Sonos wireless home music system (this system is amazing!)

I think that's everything... let me know if I've missed a feature someone wants to know more about. Hopefully this is useful for others that like me come here seeking input on designing their own space.


clipped on: 03.01.2012 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2012 at 09:08 pm

RE: Need Photos Please: White Perimeter cabs & Gray Island (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: boxerpups on 11.27.2011 at 12:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few, forgive me many of these you have
seen a 1000 times but maybe something will give you













Hood SS



no uppers


dark island


tile wall

tier counter



dark island



island sink

white gray



clipped on: 11.27.2011 at 04:03 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2011 at 04:04 pm

RE: Need under- cabinet lighting advice! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: celtinNE on 08.14.2011 at 09:09 am in Kitchens Forum

I went with Seagull Ambiance lighting in and under the cabs. They are LED pods, 10W each. They do not plug in to the outlets. I dont' know if the big box stores sell them. I got mine from a local electrical supply house. I would recommend doing the lighting before the tile.



And the little light pods that can be plugged in anywhere on the cord.


And installed under the cab


And in the cab


Good luck! HTH


clipped on: 08.14.2011 at 08:10 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2011 at 08:10 pm

RE: How I got rid of the musty cave of noxious chemicals under si (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: davidro1 on 04.19.2011 at 08:03 am in Kitchens Forum

The smell was especially pungent for years because of the enclosed Cabinet.
Previously we had a cabinet.
Now we have drawers.
Now, with drawers, we have the storage that drawers provide.
And things are airy.
Every time a drawer is opened, air is forced to circulate.
The action of drawer-moving pushes air around.
I like to put a piece of paper towel covering the powder residue on the top of the Ajax/Comet, just to help keep it from going air-borne. (I think the powder can also go airborne even when you open a cabinet door.) This fine powdered product has some solid bleach in its granules, so we still do have a form of bleach under the sink. But the big old bleach bottle is history. It's amazing how much bleach bottles leak out pungent odors. Vinegar doesn't do that.

It was a leap of faith to go all-drawer under the sink. Nobody ever confirmed that having not one single cabinet was a fine way to go.

Many people opined that my proposed compact plumbing was impossible or not up to code. (Not true). Millions of people can confirm that the first bend in a drain can be and often is a "Tight" bend. (e.g. under a bathtub, under a WC, it's a tight bend), and Master plumbers can explain why a tight bend is OK as the first bend under a drain. As luck would have it, Franke, Elkay, Dornbracht, Blanco and others all sell a remote pop-up button that you turn to open / close the strainer in the drain. It's a cable that moves a lever. One thing they don't advertise is that your kitchen sink drain pipe ends up going sideways instead of straight down. THAT was the big advantage I had been looking for and found in this Ready Made Product that saved time since I did not need to Reinvent a Tight Bend in 1.5" diameter pipe. Result achieved: under the sink drain, my drawer floor is intact; it was not cut out to leave a notch for the drain pipe, because the drain pipe is horizontal and goes backwards to the wall. The P trap is in the empty space behind the drawer, close to the wall. I notched out the drawer's back panel, not the drawer floor.


My drawer support structure is Really Airy.
I have cabinet sides holding drawer glides.
And Not One More Panel Than That.

Drawers need no cabinet floor under them.
We figured we could safely forego the cabinet floor as long as cabinet sides remained parallel and square (not parallelogram-y).
This is another subject that could take time to describe, on another day.

Our lowest drawer we can open with a foot since there is no wood panel under it. Having no cabinet floor gives you an airy open space. When you remove all the drawers (an easy operation) you can work in that space with room to spare. ((P.S. I also removed the cabinet back panel; i can see the wall and the plumbing very easily.))


Combining several thought processes we were able to get the final result that achieved our goals, satisfied our desires, (and made us proud). One was the radical rethinking of product inventory; we got out of the chemical storage business and got into the nano mechanical stocking business: we buy and try out scotch brite type and mIcrofiber cleaning cloths and pads now, and find them all good.

Secondly, we got the drain pipe horizontally aligned and notched the drawer back not bottom.

A third thought was that drawers need side panels for the glides but not the other parts of a typical six sided cube that they sell at the "cube" store.


clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2011 at 04:29 pm

Our Dream Kitchen Finished

posted by: Dean_I on 07.14.2011 at 03:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Well it was a long hard road which involved us flying 1000km's down and back in one day to chose our granite, driving 150km's a few times to talk to the Stone Mason but it was all worth it (well we think anyway lol).

Originally we were going to go with standard cupboards and a Pearly Shores Quantam Quartz benchtop. What we ended up with was Tupac, Granite, and soft close drawers and cupboards. So happy we spent the extra. Here's some finished pics.


clipped on: 07.27.2011 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2011 at 12:14 pm

RE: Worried about Undermount Stainless Steel sink (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 07.25.2011 at 10:22 am in Kitchens Forum

There are all kinds of "techniques" that guys use -

This is for eveyone reading this - (not just SuzieQ)

Stainless steel sinks that are installed with 2CM thick stone are usually supported from underneath by the plywood subtop layer (I use 5/8" thick ACX grade) The sink is "sandwiched" in between the the plywood and the stone - the sink rests on it's flat flange and holds itself up. I could get in the sink (using this method) and stand in the sink all day long and the sink will not fall down!!!

On 3CM - there is no plywood used as the subtop, and THIS is wjere a lot of guys "just don't get it" (to quote Dr. Evil.....) They seem to think that if they just "epoxy" or "silicone" the sink flange to the underside of the stone - eveything will be OK - Welll, I am here to tell you - No Virginia - It's NOT "OK" ......

an adhesive ALONE is NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE WEIGHT OF THE SINK for an extended length of time - like say..... 2 to 5 years

In 3CM applications - clips that can be MECHANICALLY ATTACHED to the stone can be used, Or.. WHat I prefer (and have been using for years without failure (like around the last 15 - ever since I saw these - I started using them)
is the "Sink Setter"

The Sink Setter is a metal frame work that attaches to the cabinet and supports the sink unit from underneath. The sink does not ever fall, the silicone bead between the stone and the sink acts strictly as a waterproofing gasket (as it really only should be) and the Sink Setter supports the weight of the sink, the garbage disposal and the associated plumbing - ALL exerting downward force on the sink bowl.......

Sink Setters can and should be used on all CAST IRON and COMPOSITE sinks as well - not just limited to SS......

If your fabricator wants you to accept sinks that are merely "glued" to the underside of the stone (using epoxy or silicone - I'd find a new fabricator, or insist that he uses Sink Setters on your project..

BTW - This is NOT a shameless brazen plug for the Sink Setter - I receive no compensation or benefits from sharing this with all of you.

AND..... (not trying to be self promoting) As an active Fabrcator for the last 26 going on 27 years, I HAVE been using them (for at least) over 15 years, and have NEVER had a sink fall - LOT'S of HAPPY CUSTOMERS though...... so consider what I'm sharing here as food for thought




clipped on: 07.25.2011 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2011 at 12:12 pm

Finished kitchen... well, almost finished

posted by: kiffgirl on 02.20.2011 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you to everyone who posts here for your questions, opinions, advice, suggestions, photos, guidance, support, stories, trials, and tribulations. Although we found this site later in our project, we still gained so much and avoided some serious errors thanks to all of you!

Our previous kitchen was not old, but painfully small. As a two cook family, it just didn't work. We didn't have much room to work with to expand and, because of a window in the bedroom below, we angled the space to minimize the overhang. We started construction in August on the small addition and finished (almost) in January. Final trim, accessories, and window treatments still to come.

Our kitchen before:


And now...




Adding seating at the island was a last minute change and it has made such a difference for us.



Products used:

Custom cherry cabinets by Mills Brothers Fine Woodworking
Luce de Luna quartzite counters
Viking Range - reused from previous kitchen
Viking Hood - reused, but added chimney
F&P dish drawers - reused
KitchenAid counter depth refrigerator
Marvel Wine Cooler
GE Advantium
Terra Verre tiles for backsplash
Artemide pendants
Knobs and pulls - Restoration Hardware
Grohe faucet main sink
Hansgrohe faucet prep sink
Fanke Orca main sink
Ticor prep sink
Eye-Vac under sink - one of my favorite things. Just sweep up to the toe kick and the mini vac automatically sucks up what is in front of it. A must with wood floors and 2 dogs and 2 cats!


clipped on: 07.19.2011 at 09:42 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2011 at 09:42 pm

RE: Gray or white kitchen! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: boxerpups on 05.20.2011 at 08:27 am in Kitchens Forum

I love a mix of white and gray. This picture above is
from HGTV. I wish I knew the exact color. Gorgeous.


Diamond Baratta Designs

Scheeler Kitchen

Weddington Designs

Store Kitchen Designs





Hefner Kitchen Marble honed


Blossom Interiors

New cast gray





A bit of art to balance the gray and white.



clipped on: 05.23.2011 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2011 at 09:56 pm

Finished Peppercorn/Delicatus White for FKB

posted by: kitchenaddict on 06.21.2010 at 06:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are my official digital pictures for the FKB, along with the list of details as requested by starpooh....

Cabinets- Kraftmaid Peppercorn Stain on cherry
Cabinet Door Style-Layton
Granite--Delicatus White
Flooring-Pergo Select Laminate in Red Prairie Pine
Range-GE Profile
Dishwasher- LG
Refridgerator-Fridgedaire Professional
Backsplash- Crema Marfil Tumbled Marble
Sink- Blanco Silgranit in Anthracite
Faucet- Delta Talbot
Pendants- Bellacor Seeded Bell Jar with Brushed Nickel
Pulls- Kraftmaid

Peppercorn Kraftmaid Cabinets

Here is a link that might be useful: Peppercorn Cabinet Kitchen


clipped on: 03.16.2011 at 12:00 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2011 at 12:00 pm

RE: A twist on the white kitchen - not final but in the home stre (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: alabamamommy on 02.10.2011 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you thank you thank you! Isn't this what makes this forum so amazing? The only audience in the world where people care as much about and appreciate the minutia you've been agonizing over for months (some of you years!)?!?

We've literally pulled this thing together on as tight of a budget as is possible, so I'm happy to share our sourcing! We found this half-finished house about 9 months ago. It was a casualty of the downturn, a builder had to abandon it mid-construction. All of the gas, water and electricity had been roughed in, so, to stay within budget, we had to work within the existing footprint. The man I hired to be my husband 10 years ago has been acting as GC, and has been working with the vendors daily (he's doing a great job, isn't he?)

First, I was so fortunate to run across this photo on, which happened to be the exact same footprint. I really liked the layout, and loved the white kitchen, but I wanted something a little less, I don't know, country? Formal? Not sure, but I needed it to be a little more "us". Whatever - you can see where the bones came from.

There was already a gathering room with walnut exposed beams just off of the kitchen, so we looked for ways to wink back at that room with some contrast in the kitchen. I came across these photos (I can't remember the source) and loved the details.

Here's another - I'm *think this one came from Elle Decor or House Beautiful.

I'd fallen in love with the "Royal Master Sealight" pendants from Restoration Hardware a couple of years ago, and kept going back to them.
They only have the 7" versions left, but if you look around on ebay, you may find them.

The chandelier in the breakfast room is from the Ballard Designs outlet in Roswell, GA. I THINK we paid $70 for it?

The cabinets and island were done by a local custom cabinet maker. I'm pretty sure they ordered the legs from a catalog.

The slab was a very special point for us, hence my excitement. In our current house, which is 30 years old, we have slabs of "Alabama White" in the entry and on a fireplace. It's held up beautifully and we kept comparing anything we saw in slab yards to it. It's notoriously hard to find because the Sylacauga quarry is kind of sporadic. So my husband drove to the quarry and bought enough tile for our bathroom and asked where he could get slabs from. They put us in touch with a distributor who, oddly, didn't have a vendor in our area, so we had to order directly from them. So, what you're seeing is a 2000 lb 6cm slab of Alabama White Statuary. We bought two additional 2cm slabs for the gathering room fireplace, wetbar, and the powder room. We still have one more slab that we haven't identified a use for. The kids were acting up, so I couldn't get the photos I wanted of the island slab, but wow, it's more beautiful than I'd hoped for.

Speaking of that extra slab - at first we were going to try and use it for the backsplash. But for a myriad of reasons (including my husband simply not being able to commit a slab to a wall) we ended up looking at everything else from subways to hexagons.

I hesitated over and over because I know how hard it is to match unless you go through a local vendor... but every local vendors wanted 3x the price of what we were finding online and we just couldn't work it in the budget. I drug my feet and drug my feet until I came across this photo from Tracery Interios. It was what I'd been trying to accomplish all along.

I honestly don't know the difference between board and batten and bead-a-board, but this is some sort of 6-inch locking wood paneling. They were set to paint it our "SW Pearly White" but my mom and I walked in while they just had the primer on it and said "STOOOOPPPPP"! We loved the white-washed feel. The stainless backsplash attached to our range should protect it, but if it becomes a problem long term, we're just going to look for some metal sign art to mount behind the pot filler.

What else - oh - the permiter counters are Caesarstone. But they're only 2cm with mitered edges to 6cm. With the marble island, we wanted something a little more durable than for the perimeters.

And paint colors. The gathering room and the breakfast room are a Valspar color called "Silver Sea" that we had cut 1/2 strength. But it's painted on top of the full strength, so it's our own weird blend. Trim and cabinets are SW Pearly White, but they're different colors because the cabinets were professionally laquered, so we're "figuring out" that now.

Here are some random other photos that we've taken along the way. I can't thank you all enough for your enthusiasm and cheering. I'm going to be back soon for hardware opinions!

A view of the gathering room, the beams were our original contrast inspiration.

Some views of our perimeter counters:

A closer look at the backsplash material:

The "lunch making station" as I'm calling it:

The wetbar, which is on the opposite wall of the fireplace in the gathering room. We wanted this to tie in as well.

And finally - the original kitchen, how we found it:

What did I miss???


clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 12:17 am    last updated on: 03.12.2011 at 06:45 pm

RE: Is two-toned too much? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: boxerpups on 02.02.2011 at 12:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love two toned kitchens. I do not think it is trendy or
that it would be dated. At least not anytime soon, as this is
an effect that can lend itself to many different kitchen
decor styles. It can be country, contemporary, rustic,
organic, modern, urban, english, french, spanish revival...
It is timeless.
I agree with you that you can lighten up the space with
going lighter on the uppers.

Crabtree Kitchens

North East Cabinetry

Beverly Leigh Binns

Johnny Grey

Luxury Kitchens


messages from the mothership blog

Kitchen and Bath Ideas

Chocolate Cabs


Attic Magic

Detroit Home Magazine

Tommy Smythe


The Clean Lines kitchen

Bungalo Hutch

Gray Cabinets

Pulp Remodel


clipped on: 02.02.2011 at 06:56 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2011 at 06:56 pm

thought i'd post an update

posted by: kateskouros on 01.25.2011 at 05:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

well, things are still moving very slowly and i am beyond upset with our builder. that's a story i don't want to go into as it just upsets me more. let's just say there are far too many days i find myself breaking into the little bottle my doctor gave me to use in extreme situations only. we are on month #28 ...and counting.

the cabinet maker came in today to work on the folding doors for the baking center and breakfast bar. i love the hinges we found for the baking center (non operable) but we need a few more for the upper glass front cabs.

i think the appliance garages for the breakfast bar look cool, but i can tell already that i went a little crazy with all the doors. while it will be nice to hide that section away when company is here it will no doubt remain open for business the other 363 days of the year!

we're waiting on the flooring to be completed to install the legs for the island. while i initially thought it would be a little too big, i find the size is comfortable for the space. it affords a lot of extra storage as well as houses my turbo-chef oven. while i HAD to have that oven, i'm not hot on the look of it. -i know, everyone loves it. except me.



i also thought i'd include a pic of the mudroom pendant. i bought it from an ebay vendor. it may sound crazy, but it is one of my most favorite things about the house! it's absolutely stunning IRL!

they finally started doing the millwork on the fireplaces and our stairs are being installed. as soon as they're complete we'll go over our punch list, paint and do the floors. while some lighting is in, i wouldn't let them hang any more until the floors are sanded. yeah, i'm crazy like that.

i'll be back soon. i have to break into my bottle of happy pills.


clipped on: 01.27.2011 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2011 at 12:28 pm

RE: boxerpup - need photo ID (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: boxerpups on 12.28.2010 at 02:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Johnorange,

Pretty Arch Preview!!!!!! Here a few more ideas.


(Boston co. ) North Shore Tile

Marble Backsplash

Material Girl Blog

Kitchen and Bath Ideas

Steve Cole Getty Images

RJB Design Group


Hepburn newa

Heather Thompson


HeartWood Maine

Not an arched recess but pretty

This one is not arched but it made me think of your
double range space you are working on. Big and pretty

Mary Toboini Designer

Cream Wordpress Blog

Decor Happy Blog


clipped on: 12.28.2010 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 12.28.2010 at 09:05 pm

RE: Tentative about the Two Tone (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: jterrilynn on 10.13.2010 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Tangy, my little kitchen is not yet finished, but here is one that shows my three different countertops and two different cabinet colors. I am very happy with it and think the mixing has made a small kitchen more interesting. Just out of camera view is the tiny nook area that at the moment has a big ladder and heap of remodel supplies...that area will have yet another top of stainless for narrow hightop seating." target="_blank">Photobucket


clipped on: 10.14.2010 at 01:36 am    last updated on: 10.14.2010 at 01:36 am

RE: SO much trouble picking wall color with white cabinets.! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: milz50 on 09.11.2010 at 01:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Good luck suzy.

Rookie...thanks; here's a couple more pics.


clipped on: 09.11.2010 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 09.11.2010 at 11:55 am

RE: For those with Bin Pulls / Cup Pulls on kitchen drawers... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dian57 on 09.08.2010 at 07:50 am in Kitchens Forum

When I was looking for cup pulls and knobs in an oil rubbed finish, someone on this forum mentioned Cripe Distributing for the best price. They were certainly right! 25 knobs or pulls for $14.00. $28 + shipping later and my whole kitchen was done. Much better than paying $5/per. They've held up beautifully and it's been over 2 years now.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cripe Distributing


clipped on: 09.09.2010 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2010 at 09:41 pm

My drawer cell recharge ctr w/pictures

posted by: jterrilynn on 09.04.2010 at 02:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello all just thought I would share my cell phone charge drawer setup for others who are trying to keep counter clutter down in their new kitchens.
In my small tall kitchen I have a little drawer above my little trash pull-out next to the sink. In the first picture you will see the electric on back of the 15" cabinet. In the second picture you will see how we are running a flexible waterproof electric line to the inside back behind the drawer. The third picture shows (partly, we still have to drill hole in drawer for connect) a 9" angle plug strip from task lighting for the cell recharge. The forth picture shows the flexible waterproof line that will be located behind drawer on inside of cabinet and will have an anchor at bottom similar to what you would see at the bottom of a pull-out faucet under sink, the line will move with drawer when opening and shutting (hopefully)." target="_blank">Photobucket


clipped on: 09.05.2010 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2010 at 12:46 pm

White Cabinets with White Countertops?

posted by: pugrolls on 06.18.2010 at 04:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello, wonderful GWers,

Of all the funny things, DH is now totally in love with the white cabinet/espresso island look. (Despite throwing hissy fits early in the planning process about how much he HATES white cabinets. Yes. He actually typed "HATES" in all capital letters when we were emailing about the kitchen design). In any event, I am delighted by this development and am going to run with it. So now the question becomes, what countertop?

I love love love the look of white carrera marble on white cabinets, but DH wants to go with something more bulletproof. So, OK. Does anyone have or have photos of white cabinets with white countertops other than marble? White quartz, maybe? I would love to see them, thanks!

But just to drool over marble a little....


clipped on: 06.18.2010 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2010 at 11:40 am

Budget (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: azwildcats70 on 08.22.2010 at 07:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Honey Oak cabinets painted: $300 in supplies
BM Fresh Start Primer
BM Satin Impervo Waterbourne in White Dove
Willbond Deglosser

Granite: $2500 including installation (we found remnants)
Island Honed Super White or Vermont White (which ever you want to call it)
Perimeter Honed Black Ocean

Hardware: $363
Laurey Nantucket 3" cup pulls
Laurey Nantucket 3" spiral handle

Over sink: Nantucket Ceiling light in nickel $99
Over Island: Norwell 5142 Broadway Island Light in Polished Nickel $170
Hearth room lights: Glass Lantern Chandelier x2 in Antique Copper $180 x 2
4" recessed lights in kitchen ceiling and two of them in pantry (7 total) $210
Pantry doors:
French doors, frosted glass with a can of spray frost $265 + $3 can of frost

Back splash:
6"x3" Subway tile gloss white $75 worth of tile
12"x12" carved marble monogram tile $75

8" spread bridge faucet by La Toscana $180 (ebay)

27"x15" 16 gauge stainless steel - Free with granite
Sink grid $80 sink grid
Insinkerator - $250 (ebay)

Jenn Air Dishwasher - had from previous house ($1900)
Jenn Air Refrigerator - had from previous house ($2200)
Kenmore Double Wall Oven - paid for by Home Warranty ($1600)
Kenmore Pro 6 burner range top - paid for by Home Warranty ($1700)
Pro Line Range Hood - paid for by Home Warranty ($699 on ebay)

Labor charges:
$1100 Electrician
$650 Tile Install
$400 Plumbing
$690 Appliance install
$260 Range hood install

Total out of pocket $7950 (Does not include appliances)


clipped on: 08.23.2010 at 05:23 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2010 at 05:23 pm

RE: Thoughts On Dark Grey Kitchen Cabinets? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: sparklekitty on 08.13.2010 at 10:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Love the grays and taupey grays - particularly in cabinets. But I am also concerned about too much gray, at least from the samples on my monitor, might be too monotone even though you have different shades. I did a little search for gray cabinets & what was common in every kitchen was accents in either white (as in counters, BS or walls), warm wood (counters, chairs) or black. Check it out - I hope I do boxerpups proud (though I have no references)

Gray cabinets, white back splash, counter and sink.

Taupe/gray lowers, white uppers & back splash, black counters. Copper and terracotta accents. I love this kitchen...time to start over :)

The warm would counter/table looks amazing with the darker gray.

This is all gray, but accents in open shelves white and wood.

This is more a tan/gray but again lots of white.

I found it so helpful to rethink my assumptions. You love gray/taupe, you love jute - does everything have to be gray/taupe? Could the cabinets be jute and the walls be something whiter (or something else)? Where is your pallet coming from - was their a kitchen you saw that you loved - was it all gray taupes with amazing accents (open shelves with great stuff on them, other accents around the kitchen) that made it work. If not, what is it about other kitchen you like that attracts you, even those that are not gray? This exercise helped me hone in on where I liked contrast (between counter and cabinets) and where I liked continuity (between uppers and lowers.) Challenge yourself and if you come back to where you started all the better -- and more confident in your choices.

If you search on gray kitchen cabinets and look at images you can get more great photos. I was going to do gray accent cabinets with red birch main cabinets but went with gray counters instead and paint white accents. This is probably more than you wanted - I love gray these days. Keep us posted on your progress.


clipped on: 08.15.2010 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2010 at 02:36 pm

RE: Red Range with Stainless Hood? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: colickyboy on 07.08.2010 at 12:43 am in Kitchens Forum

i had the same dilemma and ended up going with stainless hood instead of red hood. the primary reason was that if i had a red hood, we'd need to get another red range if this one for whatever reason died...whereas if i had a stainless hood, i could replace the red range with whatever color range (or SS range) i wanted. in fact, one reason we went with the BS range was that it's flexible/modular enough that we could swap out the red panels for SS panels if we ever wanted to (sweet tip from buffalotina).

anyway, here's a photo of our red range with stainless hood. (sorry...the kitchen is still obviously unfinished and a big mess.) the red BS range is topped with SS so unlike, say, an red AGA which is completely red, i think the red BS range transitions well from a SS hood.


clipped on: 07.08.2010 at 01:04 am    last updated on: 07.08.2010 at 01:04 am

RE: HELP! My dream kitchen doesnt fit the rest of our house! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: jterrilynn on 06.28.2010 at 01:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

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clipped on: 06.28.2010 at 05:34 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2010 at 05:34 pm

RE: Drawer under cooktop? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: cotehele on 04.11.2010 at 06:52 am in Kitchens Forum

This is an induction cooktop with specified clearance under the cooktop. It is 5'' from the counter (which is the cooktop height) to the drawer. The drawer is very shallow - 1 1/2''. It is the handiest thing ever. Spatulas, wood spoons, and tongs fit.




clipped on: 04.12.2010 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 04.12.2010 at 10:35 am

RE: Contemporary/Modern kitchen just about done! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: scottdim on 04.03.2010 at 03:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the compliments everyone, Ill start from the top:

Fridge - Samsung RFG297AARS - Been great so far, love the bright LED lighting, makes ice a little slow but no problems otherwise

Beverage Center - Electrolux - was on the fence about it at first since it takes up so much room in our small kitchen, but we LOVE it and our guests seem to like it as well (especially when it is filled with beer, go figure)

Dishwasher - Maytag - loving the drawer design so far

Range - Capital - I found this forum while searching for reviews on ranges and people here seemed to speak highly of Capital. They seemed to have some of the nicest 30 inch ranges for the money. You don't have too many options outside of a standard 4 burner configuration on a 30 inch so it was nice to get the 25k btu Wok burner in the middle. Have no complaints so far, build quality is top notch.

Range Hood - Kobe 30 inch RA9430 - Love the design, its very effective and has a super quiet setting which is almost completely silent. Also purchased based off the recommendations on this site.

Flooring - Crystal Valley Engineered natural Maple 1/2 inch thick.

Cabinets & Accessories
Boxes - 3/4 inch plywood boxes with solid Maple hardwood doors.
Cabinet hinges, slides & misc hardware - BLUM with Blumotion everywhere

Trash Pullout - Rev-A-Shelf 50qt pull out Waste Container with soft close

Blind Corner - Omega National KitchenMate Blind Corner Caddy (solid Maple) - Very nice unit, uses the space very effectively and you dont have to break your back searching for pots and pans!

Countertops -Quartz - Caesarstone in Desert Limestone (2200)


On sink side wall: Hakatai - Bohemia Series - Mirage BH801 - we purchased this one first with the intention of getting some sort of metal to have just behind the Range. We purchased this due to how well it just tied everything together. The grout we used was matched to the countertop color.

On Range wall: Porcelanosa IMAX steel lined glass - This seems to be everyone's favorite when the see it in person. It is really stunning. We wanted something sort of high tech looking behind the range and this really sets it off. It is very reflective in the daylight, almost like a mirror.

Sink & Accessories:

Sink - Vigo Elongated Angular SS sink with bottom rack - single bowl - 10 inches deep, 16 gauge insulated. Wife loves this sink, nothing is too big for it. Picked it up on

Faucet - Blanco Meridian Semi-Professional in Satin Nickel - absolutely love this. The fit and finish is awesome.

Soap Dispenser - Blanco Meridian - Satin Nickel

Air Gap - Blanco Meridian - Satin Nickel - Unfortunately I didn't read all the literature on this site about not putting in an air gap until it was too late... :/

Cold water faucet - Brasstech in Satin Nickel - hooked up to reverse osmosis system


Pendants over sink - Access Lighting

Pendants over kitchen table - Access Lighting

Pendants running MR-16 LED bulbs from - cool white over sink 6 watts each, warm white over kitchen table 9 watts each.

Undercounter lights - Environmental lights LED light bars in natural white. - these were fairly easy to install and the light output is awesome. They are dimmable as well if you purchase the dimming controls.

Decorative shelf lights - Pegasus lighting LED bullet lights - these are not dimmable in case anyone is wondering.

Please see the link below to check out the Construction photos. I left comments on many of the photos detailing what was going on.

@storklady There were some ups and downs with doing everything custom. We got to pretty much draw things up just the way we wanted it which was nice, but on a few occasions, the finished product did not turn out exactly as planned due to a combination of either errors in the design or in the execution. As anyone who has done a remodel knows, its a process and you don't always get it right the first time. We definitely learned a lot thats for sure.

Let me know if you want more info or if I left anything out :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Construction photos!


clipped on: 04.07.2010 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 04.07.2010 at 11:10 am

RE: What about a shot of contemporary lighting in kitchen? So Stu (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: storklady on 02.25.2010 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry I didn't make much sense. Here are some inspiration photos. I have more using the green but they are on a different computer and i have no access at the moment. I'm not doing exactly what you see, but you get the idea. I have 4 distinct areas I'm working in. The LR, DR, hallway to kitchen, kitchen and reading nook. They flow of all rooms flow together...but they separate spaces. I'm using neutral furniture and I described all the white above. I'm going to paint the LR and DR walls turquoise. The hallway to kitchen and reading nook apple green. Inside the U shaped kitchen area everything will be white (upper areas) except the wall of art and it will be yellow. The yellow will only peak out behind the art. The art will be the focus. I have wood floors all over and I'm accenting with black. there will be black countertops, a black mirror...fixtures...and black & white accent fabrics here and there. I have other pops of black too. The LR and DR ceiling fixtures are antiques. I have antique furniture too.....old pine pieces...nothing heavy and dark. I also have some modern table lamps in addition to vintage ones and some modern art...though most of the art is vintage. I do have a mix of new and old....but my 2 main ceiling fixtures are antiques and I wonder if I can mix in the fixture I referenced in the kitchen. hope it better makes sense now. Thanks a bunch.







clipped on: 04.02.2010 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2010 at 11:27 pm

RE: wood island top - should it match the wood floor color? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.27.2010 at 06:05 pm in Kitchens Forum


I have seen different combinations of dark wood or light
and another wood type on the floors.
The beautiful thing about white and wood is they look
beautiful together. Whatever you do decide, be it
dark or light or both, it will be lovely.

Meanwhile here are some ideas that might help you visualize.

Hilton Head Kitchen Designs

Hampton Designs

Reid Brothers Kitchens

Devo Woodworking

Devo Woodworking Walnut Island

Kitchen Web

Wood Countertops Google images

Fox Kitchens

Restyled Home


I am not sure which backsplash would be the one for
you. I have always been a fan of the simple look with
white kitchens dark counters. Noticing all the images
above there really are some great ideas.

Here is one more with a marble bs
Acobra289 from Photobucket (not my image)
carrera marble backsplash Pictures, Images and Photos

Not Marble but really lovely

Here is a link that might be useful: Clippings from I believe Willow not exactly sure


clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 08:11 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 08:11 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.

    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.

    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.

    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)

  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.

  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied

  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:

    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.

    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.

  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece

  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.

      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.

      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.

      • Make sure the seams are butted tight

      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):

      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed

      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications

      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around

    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.

    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges

    • Check for chips. These can be filled.

    • Make sure the top drawers open & close

    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher

    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter

    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances

    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.

      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth

    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA

  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.

  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB

  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!

  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see

  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust

  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.

  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.

    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)

    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.

    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.

    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:

    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop

    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required

    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:

    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino

    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


clipped on: 03.14.2010 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2010 at 12:15 am

RE: Installing Undermount Sink without Using Brackets??? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 02.26.2010 at 04:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Carole for your very kind remarks... I post stuff here on GW to HELP
consumers, and help them have more freaking tools at their disposal - so they can
make good decisions as to their countertop projects go.... That's also where
my NaturalStone101 webste comes in to play - it's there - NOT to sell ANYTHING
(sounds crazy - huh?) it's there to help folks in an unbiased and
objective way...

anyways - are YOU installing this yourself - because if you ARE - I'd really
caution you - slab Fabrication and Installation is not for the newbie - and I'd
ONLY recommend stuff to you if you and your DH had the skill sets to do this
kind if work..... There's PLENTY of Fabricators doing this for a living right now-
and I'm sure you can find SOMEONE that could do the install for you.

As far as "what would I do in MY home?" I will answer this way - EITHER method
will work well - the "advantage" of using the "Undercounter Mounter" from
Braxton Bragg ....
is that IF you EVER have a problem with your sink - any kind of sink for that matter..
you can remove it if you have it mounted using the Undercounter Mounter.

for the money - I think is it sells for between $20 and $50 dollars - I think
that it is a GREAT form of insurance for a homeowner - what happens when
"Little Timmy" starts juggling monkey wrenches, and drops one on the stainless
steel sink, and makes a HUGH JAZZ sized DENT in the steel? IF the sink
has been sandwiched in between the stone and the plywood - you'd better
get used to seeing Hugh's DENT in your sink..HA!

BUT...... With the Undercounter Mounter - all you'll have to do is loosen the nuts
that hold the sink in place, lowering it away from the stone until you can litterally
remove the sink and replace it with a new one (that you'll charge Little Timmy's
folks for)
This is - if the cabinet space under the sink will allow you to maneuver the sink
out of the sink base cabinet and replace it with the same style and size..

here is a pic of the Undercounter Mounter:
Under Counter Mounter

With this type of mounting option - the sink can still move around, but when you
turn the "set screws" to raise the sink up into position - after the stone is set in place -
the sink will "snug up" to the stone - then you back down the screws a turn -
squirt in your silicone, and tighten the screw back up and - voila!! (SP?)
you're done..

I will try to do a podcast on this that shows how the Undercounter Mounter
works - using video... watch for it soon at




clipped on: 03.19.2010 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2010 at 11:40 pm

River White or White Galaxy?

posted by: discoganya on 03.11.2010 at 11:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Can't decide between the two. Any pics to share? Any thoughts?
(It will be matched with dark cabinets)


clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 06:59 pm

Fabricator comes tomorrow...anyone....

posted by: lindalp on 03.12.2010 at 03:54 am in Kitchens Forum

The fabricator comes tomorrow, does anyone have any photos of kitchen islands that have "rounded shaped" overhangs. I hope that makes sense.


clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 10:55 am

Vaulted ceiling in kitchen? Anybody done this? Pics please!

posted by: mythreesonsnc on 05.12.2009 at 03:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

I have combed through this site, and don't believe I have missed a thread on this topic....

We are working on a house plan that has a kitchen that is connected to a "keeping room." --- that's what they seem to call a family room here in NC! Anyway, the "keeping room will have a vaulted ceiling with beams, much like the pic here....
Mark Finlay keeping room

We will have windowseats flanking the fireplace. My question is, we are planning to have the kitchen facing out to the fireplace -- the range and mantel hood would be opposite the fireplace (I have serious symmetry issues) and a big island would be in between. My question is, what do you think about continuing the vaulted ceiling and the beams all the way to the back wall with the range? I feel like it will make the room lighter and more "open," but I just rarely see pics of a vaulted kitchen --- is it a design no-no? This inspiration room appears to have a flat ceiling over the kitchen, but I feel a bit like it closes off the kitchen --- here's the pic of it..... I am trying to imagine if the vault continued the entire way...
mark finlay kitchen to keeping room

If anybody has any comments, etc. they would be greatly appreciated... especially pictures of this look. We are still in the design phase, so I'd rather consider the negative (or the positive) now, vs. discovering it later!

Thanks so much, Rachel


clipped on: 03.10.2010 at 11:07 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2010 at 11:07 pm

RE: Can I see your gray 12x24 tile? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.01.2010 at 08:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

No need to Google. This came from Daltile, but it came to them from TCNA. Ask and you shall receive:

Rectified Tiles
What Is The Appropriate Grout Joint Width?

Rectified tiles continue to increase in popularity, particularly in the commercial arena. For years, the industry and Dal-Tile have recommended that Rectified tiles can be installed with a 1/16" grout joint. However, from the contractors perspective, installations have become more time consuming and difficult to ensure compliant installations when attempting to install a Rectified tile with a 1/16" grout joint. In response, the new TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Handbook addresses this issue by recommending that the width of the grout joint used be determined by the ANSI A108.02 specification which states that the actual grout joint size shall be at least 3 times the actual variation of facial dimensions of the tile. To simplify: Rectified tiles, regardless of size, shall have a grout joint width no less than 1/8". As a result, Dal-Tile is changing its recommended grout joint width to be 1/8" for all of its Rectified tiles.

In addition, we will no longer recommend in our literature that Rectified and Non-Rectified large format rectangle sizes (Ex: 12" x 24") can be installed in a brickwork or running bond pattern where the overlap is 50% [normal brick joint]. The reason for this is that the allowable warpage for a tile based on ANSI specifications can create an installation issue when large format rectangular tiles are installed in a brickwork/running bond pattern. This allowable warpage can create a scenario where lippage is inevitable given the overlapping pattern. To mitigate this effect, Dal-Tile will be removing the brickwork pattern from our catalogs and literature. This will be replaced by a new pattern that will be referred to as a "Staggered" brickwork pattern where the overlap does not exceed 33%, and the grout joint width must be a minimum of 3/16".

Also-- grout was Mapei's Pearl Grey.


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 12:52 am    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 12:52 am

does anyone have a 10' island? pictures?

posted by: loucie on 02.01.2010 at 02:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our plans call for a 10' island. I was very excited at first, now I'm wondering if it is overkill. Would love your imput.


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 12:19 am

Foot Pedal for Trash Can

posted by: boysrus2 on 08.06.2008 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading about it here, I'd like to get some sort of foot pedal for my trash can. Is Haefele (sp?) the only brand? Can you recommend one for my type of trash can set-up? I do not have bluemotion or soft close. See my pics below.

My GC comes back on Monday to finish the kitchen. Do I need to have him install this or is it something we can do after the fact? I'm supposed to have a toe kick underneath this run of lower cabinets? Will this cause an install problem?

Thanks for the input! I don't know anything about these devices.

Trash Pull Out, Side View

View of the trash can drawer to the right of microwave. Missing a few drawer fronts and hardware.

Trash Pull Out on right

Below, this is an example of the toe kick that will be installed and centered below the microwave and trash can.

Toe Kick


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 12:03 am    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 12:03 am

98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.


Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek






Sink Area:







Island - Backside:

Pantry Area - Closed:


Pantry - Open:


Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:


A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.


clipped on: 03.05.2010 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2010 at 11:40 pm

Electrical outlets on island - plugmold? What do you have?

posted by: needsometips08 on 01.26.2010 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

A few of us on another thread are interested in hearing more about plugmold on your island.

Does it work out great there? Can you see it? Do you like it?

The photos I've seen where it's under the 1.5" lip of the island counter fully exposes idt, which is why I have been hesitant to use it there. What's your experience with that? Pics?

Another thing I'd like to know is if your island is your main prep area, how many outlets do you end up using/needing there on a regular basis? Do you tend to use the island for appliances so they are close to what you are doing or just the perimeter in order to keep your island an unimpinged workspace?


clipped on: 03.05.2010 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2010 at 11:30 pm

Urgent Question for those with IKEA kitchen!

posted by: amberley on 02.22.2010 at 05:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am going to buy my cabinet boxes tonight, and I just made a (seemingly( minor design change. Please tell me if this will work the way I want it to. I plan to get several 12" wide base cabs and stack them on top of each other for a tall pantry/storage stack. What I would like to do ideally, is have doors with rollouts (regular drawer fronts don't come in 12", only in 15"). It looks like there are 12" drawers in the 12" tall pullout that most people use for trash? My question is this. Will I be able to open the door at a 90 degree angle and still pull out the drawers, or does it need to open farther? I have a refrigerator panel flush to the right side, so it could swing out more than 90 if I had it open toward the fridge, but I want it to open the other way. Opening to the left could be problematic, as the wall comes out another 6-8" deeper than the cabinet. I do have enough room to do a 1" filler if necessary, on one side. Will this work?

BTW, IKEA is not far from me, so it wouldn't be a crisis to have to make another trip.


clipped on: 03.04.2010 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2010 at 03:28 pm

Cool $ saving idea for a carerra marble subway tile backsplash

posted by: caligirl_cottage on 02.16.2008 at 10:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was in a kitchen showroom today and they had a carerra marble subway tile backsplash, which I covet on and off depending on my mood for the day. Anyway, carerra subway tiles are crazy-expensive, but the showroom guy confessed that they just got 12X12 carerra tiles from HD (which I know are not more than $3 or so a foot) and used a stone cutter to cut them down to 3X6 subway tiles. How hard could that be? Not very, and they looked pretty darn good. I suppose you could do the same for any of those stone tiles that you get in a subway size and save money.


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 11:54 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 11:54 pm

I love my prep sink!

posted by: morton5 on 12.13.2008 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

Forgive me for bragging, but I love my prep sink. It is close to my refrigerator, range, and ovens, and has 66 inches of counter space and two drawer stacks beside it:
What makes it really special, though, is how much my GC was able to fit into a 30" sink base for me. I have a 16x21x10 zero radius sink, a compact disposal with airswitch, a Never MT, and two 8-gallon trash pullouts. The trash cans (Ikea) come with a dividing mechanism, so when warm weather returns I can separate my non-recyclable trash into compost stuff and dump stuff. We were able to do all this with just millimeters to spare, but we did it! The trash pullout set-up is a modification I learned from Ikeafans.
The only sacrifice I had to make was that we had to flip the orientation of the zero-radius sink in order to fit the plumbing in the space between the trash cans. But I have grown to like it this way (water hits the drain better), and wish I had turned around my main sink, too. My GC is my hero!


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 10:24 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 10:25 pm

RE: Support for overhang on granite counter top. (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: pfam (Guest) on 03.06.2009 at 12:50 pm in Remodeling Forum

Has anyone heard of milling an 1/8 slot on the granite x 1/2 deep and adding a steel brace inserted in with epoxy. The steel 1/2 inch would have to buckle to bend and being in granite that is a strong composite.

I see this done very offend by granite fabricators but have not seen this idea shown on this thread.


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 08:55 pm

Adding under cabinet lighting - Tips/Howto?

posted by: hrcuso on 10.18.2009 at 06:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

How difficult is it to add under-cabinet lighting without ripping open your walls to run the wires? Are there any products out there that make the wiring process easier? Any tricks to make this easier than it seems or websites that can give me a good idea of how to go about it?

Any particular lighting products you'd recommend?

Right now I have the standard 4" backsplash with drywall above, but am going to be ripping that out to put in granite and will be tiling a full backsplash. So, I can tear out some drywall if need be and not worry too much about how it'll look after. The cabinet frames come down about an inch and could hide the lighting pretty well.

I'd love any help I can get. Thanks!


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 07:47 pm

Space between hood bottom and cooktop?

posted by: azmelt on 01.23.2010 at 01:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't seem to find the thread discussing the optimal space between the bottom the the hood and top of the cooktop. Our installer has asked me how far from the cooktop I want the bottom of the hood installed.
We will have a Zephyr Typhoon (36") over an electric cooktop. I want to make sure I take advantage of the cfm of this hood (850), but at the same time I don't want to bump my head into it as I cook, nor do I want to be blinded by its lights because it is placed too high.
I'm 5'9.
Any help you can provide is appreciated.


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 07:01 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 07:01 pm

Vote! Marble or white tile/dark grout backsplash? (pic heavy)

posted by: honeysucklevine on 02.28.2010 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum


Marble or white tile / dark grout backsplash???????

*If marble, then carerra or calcutta gold?
*If white tile, then beveled or nonbeveled?
*Is best tile size 4x8, 6x8, 3x6, etc?
*Visible or invisible grout?
(Lots of pictures below.)

Sketch of kitchen. White hood, white cabinets, wood floor, white range (neutral whites), black stone countertop, paint probably a warm off white (I made it yellow in the sketch to see it but it won't be yellow in real life).


Hood will look like this in white. No vertical bands.

Those things above the windows in the sketch are woodwork with crown that goes to ceiling like in traci's kitchen below:

Here are some kitchens with white tile and dark grout. (The 1st and 2nd picture are from a kitchen with beveled tile.)







Marble backsplashes:
Carrera with visible grout.

Carrera with invisible grout

Calcutta gold with invisible grout


Calcutta gold with visible grout

Unknown marble with invisible grout
Thanks for voting!!


clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 06:22 pm

Anyone Regret putting in LATCHES for hardware on cabinets??

posted by: ajard on 01.06.2010 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I need to decide on beaded white inset cabinets or non-beaded.. so I am trying to decide if I am going to use polished nickel latches for my cabinets. I am redoing a country kitchen that has a brick fireplace.. white cabs, honed carrara marble and butcher block tops.. wood floors... love the latches, but love other things too! Can you show me photos of your latches?? and are you happy with them? does anyone regret installing them

Thank you Amanda


clipped on: 02.28.2010 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 02.28.2010 at 11:45 am

Installing Undermount Sink without Using Brackets???

posted by: carole2000 on 02.26.2010 at 10:04 am in Kitchens Forum


I'd like to hear you opinion about this so-called standard practice in the Bay Area, CA.

I'd like to install a 2cm slab over a plywood. The fabricators said they will cut a hole into plywood, put my ss sink over the it, then some silicone on the rim of the sink, then put the slab over the sink. That means the sink rim will be between the plywood & the slab. When I raised a concern about replacing the sink later, they said that it's rare to replace a stainless steel sink down the road. It's partly true because my old ss undermount sink installed in between plywood & tiles survives over more than 20 years.
The fabricators said he never installed a sink with brackets in the past. However, if I insist, they can do that. I need your advice before making a hole in my plywood.



clipped on: 02.28.2010 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 02.28.2010 at 11:36 am