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RE: French Drains vs Channel Drains? (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: pls8xx on 11.27.2013 at 12:10 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Threads on drainage and grade issues often end prematurely. Homeowners are seldom willing to expend the effort to provide the details necessary to fully understand the problem and possible solutions.

Additionally, problems of grade and drainage are often brought to this forum after after significant money was spent on some landscape project. Homeowners are reluctant to consider any fix to a problem that destroys the previous work.

The moral of this story is not to begin a significant landscape project without a comprehensive plan that always considers grade and drainage.

NOTES:

Read, then reread about twenty times - solution for bottom of slope excess water when heavy rains occur.
clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 07:24 am

Unusual Perennials

posted by: peaches20 on 10.24.2013 at 02:59 pm in Perennials Forum

Hi,

Looking for suggestions for unusual and weird looking plants. Suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Peaches

NOTES:

A list to study for the entire winter. Some amazing plants.
clipped on: 10.29.2013 at 07:11 am    last updated on: 10.29.2013 at 07:11 am

Whats in bloom in your garden right now?

posted by: desertsage on 08.04.2010 at 04:56 pm in Salvia Forum

After a dry Spring, the monsoons brought us 4.5 inches of rain in July. Hands down S. greggii is bringing the hummers in today

david

[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff170/scoutsdad/100_1321.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff170/scoutsdad/100_1320.jpg[/IMG]

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 04:32 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 04:32 pm

RE: Are there organic gardeners who are also rigorous scientists? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: chickenfreak on 10.15.2011 at 11:39 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

By the way, for anyone who wants a not-too-technical explanation of how to evaluate garden plants and practices in a reasonably scentific way, Carol Deppe's book _Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties_ has a chapter devoted to "Variety Trials and Gardening Research".

(Scientific credentials? Ph.D. in biology, Harvard. And she gardens organically.)

It's a really good book; the rest of it is a _very_ clear discussion of plant genetics and the genetic quirks and breeding practices for various plants. Even if you're just into seed saving, not breeding new varieties, she offers some good guidance for that - seed saving involves selection, which is a plant-breeding activity, so knowing about breeding and genetics is still valuable.

NOTES:

Interesting discussion covering both sides of the fence. Worthy of rereading.
clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 08:52 pm

RE: August POTM - need grout color advice (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: curbdiver1954 on 08.13.2006 at 08:01 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Thanx, all! Rosie - the Dremel bit I used is for cutting tile - it cuts easily when you move the Dremel from in a line from one side to the other. Cut the rim off in one piece first, then sanded the outer edge of the remaining plate (60 grit paper on a sanding block), cut the next ring off in one piece, sanded the outer edge of the remaining plate, cut the ring that had the heel part on it (that is now in my "Save it coz I'll need it one day" box), sanded the remaining center medallion. Then divided the lazy susan into quarters and started nipping off sections of each ring. Sanded side edges as needed to sort-of square them up. Just used GEII to attach all to the lazy susan.

NOTES:

USING DREMEL FOR CUTTING TILE/CHINA
clipped on: 08.14.2006 at 07:57 am    last updated on: 08.14.2006 at 07:58 am

Pergola Post Options

posted by: bindersbee on 08.03.2006 at 01:40 am in Landscape Design Forum

Man, I had this all typed out last night and I don't know what happened to my post- operator error no doubt!

Anyway, I am building a 14' x 14' pergola. Dh will help but it isn't a big priority to him (until I actually start on it- then he'll come help because he won't want me to do it wrong, LOL! He's such a perfectionist, but I digress). I have the plan worked out for the upper structure and know what I'm doing there but I wanted to get some opinions on the post possibilities. Oh- the upper structure will be made with Southern Yellow Pine. I got an awesome deal on it as it was leftover from a local project (outdoor playground). It's not like regular pine, much denser and rated for outdoor use.

So, for the size of the pergola, I think 6 x 6 posts would be best for strength as well as visual weight. The big dilemma is whether to cement them in (30" is depth of frost line here) or use shorter posts on stirrups, U-brackets or whatever the official name is. I'd like to cement them in because then I could hang a swing or two off the ends with the double sandwich 2x10's. I couldn't do that if we did the U-brackets. However, in-ground would shorten the lifespan of the structure. U-brackets would be okay but I just worry if they are really strong enough?

WWYD? Are there other options? Metal posts covered with boxed columns? Fiberglass columns (probably too expensive)? Would metal corrode over time if in ground too? Where would I even buy such posts? Ideas/ recommendations please! TIA!

NOTES:

read entire thread
clipped on: 08.08.2006 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 08.08.2006 at 11:41 am

RE: Boring wall, any suggestions?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: saypoint on 07.29.2006 at 06:33 pm in Landscape Design Forum

How about a series of trellis panels, placed about a foot away from the foundation wall. With only 10 feet to work with, and allowing a couple of feet between mature shrubs and wall for air circulation and access for maintenance, you won't have much space left. There are tall narrow shrubs, maybe you could use a cluster or two of those in between the trelliswork.

I'm guessing you won't see this area much in the winter? If so, you need not worry about evergreens, but there are several tall and narrow ones available. Pyracantha is thorny, so you don't want to use it where people will walk by a lot, but it has colorful berries in winter.

Maybe you could build trellises similar to the one in the link below, but in wider sections?

Here is a link that might be useful: link

NOTES:

Well proportioned trellis
clipped on: 07.30.2006 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2006 at 08:58 pm

RE: persistant natives for shade (dryish) (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: esh_ga on 03.12.2006 at 05:16 pm in Native Plants Forum

Nope, no cool mountain here. We're just about 30 minutes north of Atlanta and it is warm here. And when it's not warm, it's hot (like right now it is 82!. My source has been plant rescues in the areas nearby. It is doing quite well in the ground and various pots. I certainly don't baby it.

A show stopping ground cover is lycopodium digitatum (I think it has a different name now?). Running ground cedar is the one I have (also from rescues). It always evokes comments. Evergreen here. It doesn't grow very fast, but does spread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ground cedar

NOTES:

Lycopodium digitatum
clipped on: 07.14.2006 at 07:27 am    last updated on: 07.14.2006 at 07:28 am

RE: for those who do copper art (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cindee11461 on 07.11.2006 at 12:32 pm in Garden Junk Forum

has anyone tried using copper tubing to make things out of? The kind you use on your fridge for ice maker? I have some and I want to use it for something. I found a cool thing on ebay that I was going to try to make but no idea where to start. Any suggestions?

Here is a link that might be useful: copper spinner

NOTES:

copper spinner
clipped on: 07.12.2006 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2006 at 12:50 pm

RE: secure rebar in the ground (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: missy_gardenwhimsy on 01.30.2006 at 05:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here is a link to my Cecile Brunner Bower/Arbor...with pictures and descrption of how we built it. Maybe this will give you an idea of what worked for us.
Cecile Brunner Arbor

Here is a picture of the bower...

NOTES:

Incredible rose arbor with details of construction
clipped on: 07.11.2006 at 02:15 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2006 at 02:17 pm

RE: IS there such a thing as a 'girlie-girl' trimmer? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: maineman on 05.30.2006 at 11:55 am in Tool Shed Forum

There are many cordless trimmer/edgers available.

MM

NOTES:

an option for me!?
clipped on: 07.07.2006 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2006 at 10:45 pm

pop bottle butterflly instructions (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: OUTNTHEYARD on 06.06.2004 at 08:58 am in Garden & Flower Crafts Forum

Here's a link I saved with pics & instructions.http://www.yesnet.yk.ca/schools/jackhulland/projects/butterflies/activities/artlesson/index.html

NOTES:

comp. instructions.
clipped on: 07.07.2006 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2006 at 10:01 pm

gazebo, broken concrete, tipsy pots, bottle tree, etc...

posted by: cheribelle on 07.06.2006 at 04:19 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

This gazebo was built by me with some help from DH. The top is a 10 ft fiberglass satelite dish. I bought the 4X4 posts that hold it up. The rest was a porch my friend had taken off her house when she remodeled. Funny story. The carpenters she had hired to build her new wrap-around porch took the old one off and loaded it on my trailer for me. When I hauled it off they looked at me like I'm nuts. Then later, they came into the resteraunt where I was working. They recognised me and asked "What are you going to do with that old porch?" I said I'm going to build a gazebo. Professional carpenter says to me " A gazebo, huh? Those are cool, but really tricky." I said Nah, I have a plan. The look on his face was priceless, a waitress telling a professional carpenter she can build a gazebo??? To funny. heeheehee
He has NO clue I have been using power tools and remodeling things for 25 years :0)
The copper trellis on the front is one of my designs, one of many I have built. You can sort of see the bottle tree in the back, and the horse planter I just put in.
We are still working on the broken concrete patio, lots of old stuff on this old farm place to work with, just takes time and WORK.

NOTES:

great copper trellis & interesting use of an old satellite dish
clipped on: 07.07.2006 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2006 at 03:32 pm

art house in nanaimo

posted by: calamity_j on 07.07.2006 at 09:59 am in Garden Junk Forum

Here's our own Art house in our city, it's right down town too. Theyv'e lived here about 4yrs and it's a work in progress. The fence has bicycle 1/2 rims with egg beatters attached and the house has a whole lot of christmas bulbs attached. Then there is the cars!!! The batmobil for him and the mermaid mobil for her!!! There is a friend who visits there and his toyota truck is covered in troll dolls!

Here is a link that might be useful: art house

NOTES:

much fun. glad it's not on my street but would love it nearby.
clipped on: 07.07.2006 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2006 at 03:16 pm

RE: good trellis options (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 01.04.2006 at 05:03 pm in Clematis Forum

Thanks Katie. The patio already has a retractable awning that is not visible in the picture I took. It is motorized and moves out over the patio to shield us from the afternoon sun during the hot summers. I may have found some trellises that would work but they would only be 6 feet tall once inserted into the ground and reinforced with rebar posts and pipe clamps to make sure they act as one large trellis and not get blown over by high winds.

Below is a website of one place I am considering buying from. The one specific trellis I am considering from this company is the one called Panacea Cloister Garden Trellis Black. The trellises come 5 to a case and would be butted end to end, connected with pipe clamps and each leg of the trellises would be augmented by beating a two or three foot piece of rebar into the ground and the legs connected to the rebar with more pipe clamps.

Here is a link that might be useful: www.bestnest.com

NOTES:

Suggest Joe establish acct with bestnest
clipped on: 07.07.2006 at 08:24 am    last updated on: 07.07.2006 at 08:25 am

RE: Frugal fake EarthBoxes (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: weeminimoose on 01.27.2006 at 12:49 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

I found a really great guide to making self watering containers( link at bottom of page.)
I'm planning on making some of these myself. Hope that helps.

Mini Moose

Here is a link that might be useful: Guide to DIY Earthboxes

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 02:25 pm

RE: salvia gregii (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Salvia_guy on 07.18.2005 at 11:18 am in Northwestern Gardening Forum

Carol Ann,

Below is my Salvia photo album of the ones I grow or grew.

Covet Away!
SG

Here is a link that might be useful: Salvia Collection

NOTES:

link to his extensive collection of salvias
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 09:29 am

RE: Any ideas for easy ways to provide vertical supports for vine (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: hgalindo on 03.08.2006 at 02:42 pm in Vines Forum

I make mine out of copper pipes and fittings. They're beautiful and fun to do. But can get expensive and time consuming. Really only worth the effort if you want a 'sculptural element' along with your vine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to my blog on making copper trellises

NOTES:

Wonderful info on making trellises from copper
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 08:32 am

RE: Artlaw or Outlaw? You be the judge. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: starscream on 07.05.2006 at 12:40 pm in Garden Junk Forum

WOW! I wouldn't mind her on my street. How fun! :) I found another link with a better photo. The article is more detailed too. I wonder if she's ever been featured on Weird Homes on TV?

Here is a link that might be useful: Another article

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 07:56 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 07:56 am

Artlaw or Outlaw? You be the judge.

posted by: gardeners_hands on 07.05.2006 at 12:07 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I don't know if everyone but me has already seen this news, I found it this morning - oddly on an India News page!

The story is; a woman in Minneapolis is in trouble.
http://www.tribuneindia.com/2005/20051110/ttlife.htm
"Mari has become a victim of the Minneapolis zoning code and according to it a garden figure, a sculpture and even lawn chairs in the front yard could be considered a violation of the citys zoning code. And Mari in her house at 51st & Penn has created a surrealistic sculpture garden and her whole house is an object d art but it has earned her the wrath of the neighbours who will just not appreciate art."

I hope I can find another news story to get more pictures. I do understand how extreme this is to the neighbors... but are these the same sort of people who think and do nothing about abandonded refrigerators, crack houses, high weeds, illicit dumps, and dangerous potholes? Ugly to some eyes is Art to others.

To be honest with y'all I am not 100% sure I'd want her right across the street from me. It is a LOT of stuff. I would dearly love to have her in town, though - and I'd love to visit with her. It all loks quite artistically done (what I can see), I would hope nothing holds water to harbor mosquitos, nor provids hiding places for rats. And since I don't see any of that I think the city should BACK DOWN!
GH-

Here is a link that might be useful: Artlaw or Outlaw?

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 07:55 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 07:55 am

RE: Artlaw or Outlaw? You be the judge. (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: cait1 on 07.06.2006 at 02:46 am in Garden Junk Forum

I don't think it looks that bad. I'm like GH, I'd hate to have her freedom of expression repressed - especially since it's NOT old cars and washers and fridges she has laying about the place.
There's a house down the road from me where they painted their picket fence purple and yellow - one picket purple, the next yellow, and so one. OK, so it's not the greatest looking thing but it sure is colorful in an area that is anything but colorful. Because it's forest here it's just dull green so the color really creates a POP and I LOVE it!
Anyway, I went looking to see if there were any new items about Mari and came across this site that links you to dozens of sites. Some of the garden junk is interesting and some plain junk! haha It's a site to go back to on a rainy day or a day it's too hot to be outside in cuz there's a lot of links to visit!

http://ucmmuseum.com/folkartworlds.htm

Here is a link that might be useful: Links to interesting gj sites

NOTES:

Visit these links!
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 07:48 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 07:48 am

RE: Pictures from today (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: vroomp on 07.05.2006 at 05:22 pm in Georgia Gardener Forum

Spilanthes acmella are the "eyeballs or olives on a stick". It is also know as 'Toothache Plant' as it has the ability to numb the gums and teeth when chewed.

I thought it might be cool to put a bunch of plants with similar habits together to see what they would look like. Even the Galliardias develope "eyeballs" when the petals fall off. It's so easy to save seeds from Gomphrenia and they produce flowers and get bigger all summer long. Spilanthes also have a tinge of purple to the new leaves as you see in this pic.

NOTES:

Spilanthes acmella
clipped on: 07.06.2006 at 07:37 am    last updated on: 07.06.2006 at 07:38 am

RE: Carving a patio out of a hill? (pics) (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: barefootinct on 06.30.2006 at 11:38 am in Landscape Design Forum

I agree with all of the above. I think you would be borrowing trouble by trying to dig out the hillside right next to your home...and, even if it weren't an engineering nightmare, I don't think you would like your patio any better.

I think, instead, that you should think more of changing materials (as was mentioned), enlarging the patio area (also mentioned), and work on creating a more natural division between driveway and patio with a pergola, for example.

Imagine, a pergola over the designated patio area....I can see it. A snazzier door, a great house-mounted lamp, some pots of annuals, vines that can crawl over the top of the pergola (they have a head start from the retaining wall side)...ah, lovely.

Patty

Here is a link that might be useful: an example

NOTES:

link to interesting pergola
clipped on: 07.04.2006 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2006 at 07:42 pm

RE: Saving blood from slaughtered chickens (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: joepyeweed on 11.22.2005 at 08:33 pm in Soil Forum

every so often we need to post this link as a reminder:

Here is a link that might be useful: The Humanure handbook

NOTES:

humanure web link
clipped on: 06.30.2006 at 05:05 am    last updated on: 06.30.2006 at 05:05 am

RE: Platycodon seed - when to collect and plant (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ngraham on 06.28.2006 at 10:24 am in Perennials Forum

The seed pods will need to be quite dry before collecting. I start collecting when the pods start to crack open, which take a long time when you are waiting on them :) Balloon flower seeds are usually quite shiny black, although I have collected some that were dark brown. They are very easy from seed, and don't need cold to germinate. If you plant them fresh you should see seedlings within a week at most. Probably too late in the season to see bloom this year, although if they are started early in the year they will usually bloom the same year. They are one of my favorite flowers, enjoy!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.28.2006 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2006 at 03:12 pm

RE: Help! Why is my Lavender dying? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: justmetoo on 06.27.2006 at 12:15 pm in Perennials Forum

I love Lavender. I grow Munstead and have for about ten years now. In fact, I just replaced a few of the original plants this summer with some fresh new ones. The older ones finally got just too woody to pull it off anymore.

Several things could be going on with your Lavender.

Assuming that your plants were healthy when purchased, and are not diseased, the key to long term Lavender is drainage and placement.

I built a raised bed just for several of my picky herbs. Excellent drainage with sand and small rocks added to soil.

Also, if you have the area of your lavender mulched with the wood shaving type mulch, the high humidity can give it problems. Between not proper drainage for plant and the humidity it can make the plant really struggle ( not saying that's your problem, just stating for information only).

Now I now someone will come along and state they grow lavender in heavy clay and mulch right up to the stems with a wood mulch..... but with that said, again, drainage and proper if any mulch and placement of plant to begin with are the key to a happy, healthy, thriving lavender.

Placement even after preparing a proper soil for the plant is also important. Lavender in zone 5 is iffy to begin with. Don't plant your plants where they will get the brunt of the windy winter cold and snow. Best results for lavender will be in a sheltered setting , in a raised bed with controled winter wet and summer drainage and if have to be mulched, given a small crushed rock type.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.28.2006 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2006 at 03:11 pm

RE: Deep Shade (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: DaisyLover on 06.10.2005 at 10:56 am in Tips & Techniques Forum

Okay, I take it the bed is at the very back of the carport. I'm trying to picture how the house blocks it on three sides, but anyways you say it gets no "direct sun". Is it pitch black at the bed or does it get some light? Light bounces around (off houses, concrete, the ground, etc).

I know I am WAY out of your zone, but I did grow up in OK so I do know the climate (plus I love watching Paul James on HGTV). :) One thing I have picked up from him is that a lot of plants/shrubs that we consider hardy and sun-loving aren't even supposed to grow in your area but he grows them protected under the canopy of his trees.

I just ran quickly through one nursery suppliers catalog and these are some of the shrubs that can take full shade:
1. Taxus (Yew) - comes in all shapes and sizes.
2. Stephandra incisa 'Crispa' - Cutleaf Stephandra is a graceful, low spreading plant. Miniature maple-like leaves unfold a reddish -bronze, small white flowers in late May. 2-4' (I love the look of this plant).
3. Rhamnus frangula 'Ron Williams' - "Fine Line" - narrow column, fernlike foliage, non-invasive.
4. Rhodotypos scandens - Black Jetbead - sngelic pure white flowers in June, glossy black, bead-like fruit remains attractive throughout the winter. Performs wonderfully in the shade. 3-6'
5. Ribes alpinum 'Green Jeans' or 'Green Mound' - glossy, rich green leaves and excellent branching, superior summer leaf retention. 3-4'
6. Itea virginica 'Sprich' - "Little Henry" - new, compact sweetspire, pur white flowers in early summer cover this low mounded, compact shrub, vibrant fall color even more than the burning bush. 24-36" by 3' wide.
7. Kerria japonica - (Japanese Kerria) - many varieties, white or yellow flowers (single and double), colorful green stems for winter interest, sizes range from 3' to 5'
8. Euonymus fortunei - many varieties - cream & green leaves or gold & green - mounding, spreading, or climbing types - sizes range from 18" to 3'. (great splash of color for a shady spot... and evergreen).
9. Diervilla lonicera 'Copper' - Bush Honeysuckle - copper-red new growth, yellow flowers mid-summer, great for dry sites. 2'-3'
10. Diervilla sesslifolia 'Butterfly'- rich yellow flowers held in upright clusters from May to July, foliage is bright green and clean, well-branched, never floppy like other culivars, adaptable to dry shady locations. 3'-5'
11. Buxus microphylla 'Faulkner' - glossy foliage, one of the very best boxwood for milder climates. 2-3' (all the Boxwood listed as full sun to full shade).
12. Azaleas and Rhododendrons - both like being under trees in hotter climates and there are tons of varieties and sizes. <

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.28.2006 at 05:53 am    last updated on: 06.28.2006 at 05:54 am

RE: Want to make a mosaic flower pot (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: SthrnTami on 07.15.2003 at 01:17 pm in Garden & Flower Crafts Forum

I've been doing mosaics for about 6 years, after taking a weekend workshop from a seasoned professional. Here are a few tips:
There are 4 things to consider in making a mosaic:
*The base (the pot)
*The tesserae (tile bits, broken plates, etc.)
*The adhesive (I prefer Weldbond or Liquid Nails Small Projects)
*Grout (I use various colors of SANDED grout mixed with acrylic admix, purchased from hardware store.)

1. Make sure your base is clean and dry. If you are not going to mosaic the whole pot, you might want to paint the rest with Patio Paints, then seal with an acrylic spray sealer.
2. Select and prepare tesserae. Go ahead and break up your tile or plates. Strive for some uniformity of size. (I usually re-break any piece that is larger than a quarter.) To protect the surface of the piece you are breaking, and to prevent shards from flying around, place the tile/plate between old rags before hitting with a hammer. Wear goggles!
3. Glue tesserae to base. Place a good sized dollop of adhesive in the middle of the tesserae, then press it firmly to the base. You should be using enough adhesive so that a small amount squeezes out around the edges. Use a toothpick to remove excess adhesive between tesserae, if it rises above the level of the tesserae (you need to have room for the grout). Do not place your tesserae all the way to the edge of the base. You need to leave enough space to bevel the grout to the edge. After all the tesserae are in place, allow the piece to dry overnight.
4. Grouting. Use masking tape to tape off pot edges. Mix up the grout, using water or acrylic grout additive. Add the liquid slowly, stirring well, until the mixture is about the consistency of thick oatmeal. Allow the mixture to "slake" (let it sit about 5-10). While the grout sits, make sure your tesserae are clean of adhesive. A one-sided razor is handy for scraping off bits of adhesive. You may want to spray the pot with water before beginning to grout, or the grout will tend to dry out too quickly. Scoop the grout onto the piece, and work the grout between all the pieces of tesserae. You may want to wear gloves. Bevel the grout to the edges. Scrape off any excess grout and then let it sit for about 10" to allow the grout to begin to harden. Using a well-wrung out rag or sponge, carefully clean the grout off the surface of the tesserae. You dont want to use too much water or pressure, or you will remove the grout from between the pieces as well. Cleaning the tesserae is a two-step process. First you "release" the tesserae, simply uncovering all the excess grout, but not being too concerned about the haziness. Q-tips are handy for cleaning around awkward shaped pieces, such as glass nuggets or stones. After all the tesserae are uncovered, and your grout edges are smoothed, allow the piece to rest for 10"-15". Then, go back and carefully polish each tesserae with a dry or almost dry, soft cloth. If you notice any dips or pinholes in your grout, patch before it completely hardens. If a haze remains on your tile surfaces, you may use vinegar or sulfamic acid to remove it.
5. Finishing: Carefully remove the masking tape. Tap down any bits of grout that were raised by lifting the tape.
Scrape excess grout into trash can. Wipe out bowl and spoon or other utensils with paper towels. Then rinse outside. Never, ever, rinse grout down your household drain. It can block pipes! Allow your piece to dry at least 24 hours undisturbed, out of direct sunlight. Its a good idea to seal your project with grout sealer to prevent stained grout.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 12:51 pm

RE: Want to make a mosaic flower pot (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: Loomis on 09.22.2005 at 10:54 pm in Garden & Flower Crafts Forum

Better late than never. I came across this site ages ago & kept it in my bookmarks for future reference. Hope you enjoy it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Mosaics

NOTES:

link to fabulous mosaic site.
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 12:57 pm

Kachina bowling balls

posted by: woodsy on 06.12.2006 at 10:12 pm in Garden Junk Forum

These are two bowling balls I painted..I think I posted the yellow one on here before a long while ago..the blue one was one I saw somewhere on the internet, the yellow is my own creation. I move them around, hide them in the foliage, and the kids love them...especially when they try to pick them up! LOL.
Woodsy







NOTES:

Very fun look. Project with the kids.
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RE: Need Front House Advice (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: barefootinct on 05.07.2006 at 04:47 pm in Landscape Design Forum

I say go with trellises (trellisi?) (the plural of trellis). I don't know anything about this specifically, but espaliering but that might work.

Patty

Here is a link that might be useful: article with espalier

NOTES:

Good article from Fine Gardening
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RE: TS find (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sweets98 on 05.25.2006 at 10:20 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Mulch balls are what people call the golf balls that are covered in half marbles. I think some people also glued nails onto them with the pointy part sticking up. :)

NOTES:

find a pic of these
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RE: What do you do with rocks? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Evelyn - 4 (Guest) on 05.16.1999 at 07:39 pm in Favorites Forum

Look! Just learn to love'em ha! Wish I had some of them . When vacationing in NC I search river beds for FOOT shaped rocks.They make nice gift paperweights or garden ornaments. I use permanent marker(black)to mark of toes/nails,then use my (old) nail polish to paint the toe nails. My flower garden has a few left ,as I give them to friends who compliment them. I live in FL,and feel it is time to head to NC, as my garden rocks are low! Have FUN gardners

NOTES:

FOOT shaped rocks - painted. Fun.
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RE: Lawns (or lack there of) (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: debzone8 on 04.20.2006 at 05:49 pm in Landscape Design Forum

We have a small lawn in the front because my husband insists. I'm gradually changing over from cottage garden to evergreens with perennials for year-round interest but the small green space in the middle does give the eye a rest.

We have a lawn in the back because it covers the leachfield. I'd love to get rid of it or at least break it up--I'm just scared of angering the septic gods.

Deb

Here is a link that might be useful: Front lawn

NOTES:

incredible front yard
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RE: grass / concrete pavers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: janandalan on 06.30.2005 at 01:06 pm in Landscape Design Forum

We just started placeing our "Turfstone" pavers this past weekend. We needed a place to park next to the garage and to drive across occasionally to access the backyard. Here's a picture of what ours look like. (We still have to go back for another pallet). Once they're all placed we'll fill in the holes with good soil and plant grass seed. They are countersunk at ground level so we will be able to mow right over them. I've included a link to one of the manufacturers so you can check for locations close to you.

......Jan

Here is a link that might be useful: locate a dealer

NOTES:

concrete and grass pavers
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'I wanted to shake 'em up a bit'

posted by: INKognito on 09.10.2005 at 05:09 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Thinking outside 'the box' can be a dangerous activity especially when most of us are quite comfortable inside it. The landscape design 'box' contains mainly plants or its euphemistic partner 'colour' and unless you want to appear to be weird it is best if you stay within.
On another thread Miss Rumphius says that the motivation behind her Morrocan show garden is the desire to "shake 'em up a bit" meaning, I think, that she wants to present something that is not full of the usual clichs.
I had a call from somebody yesterday who asked me how much it would cost to plant "two trees", I was initially dumb struck having no idea of what trees, where she lived, size etc. After a while it became clear that what she wanted was the trees everyone else has "to soften the corners" of their house.
On susan's thread I suggest a look at an artists garden in Marakesh and she offers another in New Jersey, we have seen pictures of Michelle Derviss's garden and Derek Jarman's garden is well documented. Would you go this far? Would you paint a tree blue or your fence purple. Would you dare to use something other than horticulture to guide the design of your garden?

NOTES:

I was born to think outside of the box!
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RE: large and steep incline landscaping (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: saypoint on 06.11.2006 at 09:05 am in Landscape Design Forum

There are two photos of the knot garden at Filoli Gardens in the link below. While your house is probably not formal enough in style to warrant a knot garden, I think that masses of plants similar to those used at Filoli would give you something beautiful to look at. I would plant in large, interweaving, irregular drifts. You could use pieces of "batter board" or something similar to create pockets to hold the soil until your plants are established.

Here is a link that might be useful: link

NOTES:

massed plantings for my slope
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Why Does this Design Work or Not Work?

posted by: Shag on 02.25.2005 at 07:16 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Here is a new thread so we don't totally hijack JoDonne's thread about the small entry garden/patio design. Here is the original (very rough) conceptual sketch I posted there.
Entry Garden

Here is the perspective sketch of the entry patio and plant bed:
Sketch

Brent and Sharon, please jump in. Maybe I should also cut and paste my last long-winded post on that other thread to get us started. In the meantime, here is the link to the other thread.

NOTES:

Entry plan
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RE: Why Does this Design Work or Not Work? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Shag on 02.25.2005 at 10:53 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Thanks for the observations, Andrew. I do appreciate your feedback as will many others here I bet. I totally agree with you that opening the entry up by adding this small patio really gives visitors a sense of where to approach - it creates more focus on the front door than the non-landscaped original. I think creating that kind of entry focus is particularly important with the all-too-common garage and driveway dominated house facade.

About the plants, you say, ... the composition loses a lot of what it has going for it in the winter season because the visual weight of the plantings gets reduced too much from what it was, at least for me.

Hmm, that may be because you're in a milder zone than we are. I'd have to say that for me, the visual weight of this planting scheme is more than what we usually see out here in Montana, Zone 3-4 where the winters get brown brown brown, occasionally down to -20F and very dry. For me, we're doing pretty well when we can retain around 30% of the "visual weight" of the plantings during our winter. Snow adds the rest of the visual weight. Ahem.

NOTES:

Front entry and planting ideas.
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RE: Ideas for Flat, Boring Front Yard (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: Nandina on 10.16.2005 at 04:28 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Nora,
I have decided to post very seldom on this Forum because questions are being side tracked and very little definitive information is being given to questioners. Let me take a minute to give you a few thoughts....after I chide those gung-ho to plant under trees. It would be wise to know if your trees are susceptible to verticillium wilt. Many are and it enters the tree's vascular system, killing it, from cut roots which happens when digging beneath.

I did a Search, Nora, on IL. trees and find that towns have specified which trees can be planted due to the numerous disease and insect problems in your area. Whenever one is landscaping it is necessary to understand the related disease problems. Then the list of possible trees is further culled by understanding which ones are 'messy' and can drive you nuts cleaning up falling debris.

Bottom line. Scratch the River Birch from your list. It has an aggressive root system which tends to surface grow and in time you will find it difficult to mow due to the mass of roots.

Suggest a planting of three Crabapple 'Donald Wyman'. It is fairly narrow in growth, red fruit hangs on all winter and is most effective when planted in a single group. Also noted on all the lists is Carolina Silverbell. A nice tree, good spring bloom, grows fairly fast, 20' tall x 20' wide. A choice for you to consider. Ditto Sweetbay Magnolia. Would work well in your plan. Kousa dogwood is another consideration to tuck toward the front of the house. And, a clump of three Redbuds with their open, upright growth planted toward the road. These would be my suggestions. If you wish to use a large deciduous tree such as a maple, Search the trees suggested for your locale so you know which varieties are best.

NOTES:

Check out Crabapple "Donald Wyman".
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May POTM 'Pretty In Pink'

posted by: cindee11461 on 05.21.2006 at 10:17 am in Garden Junk Forum

Well I used the idea of the tipsy pots for my POTM. My dad made the rebar thingy for me and talk about easy to assemble. I would say completed planting and stacking in 15 mins! I used a 12 inch, two 10 inch, one 8 inch and one 6 inch pot. My dad made a rebar "fence post" so I was able to drive that into the ground so it won't ever tip over. But after all that I thought of an easier idea. Everyone has sheppard hooks right? Well just saw off the curved top with a hack saw and presto you have yourself a new tipsy pot holder!!!! I plan on doing one of those myself soon. These are so fun to make and they look so cool I think, not to mention a really a big conversation piece for someone who doesn't know how they are done(-:

NOTES:

Tipsy pots
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RE: Survey: Your Favorite Gardening Books (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: bigeasyjock on 02.05.2005 at 06:33 pm in Book Reviews Forum

Ogden's "Bulb's for the South" changed my life! I'm reading Hemenway's "Gaia's Garden" now and its given me much to think on for sure!
Mike

NOTES:

research this re bulbs
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RE: building a garden gate from vines (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: ruralgardener on 02.13.2006 at 09:27 am in Garden Junk Forum

This may give you some ideas, it's a link to Kim's Creations. The link below is for her fences and gates. She uses a lot of willow branches and wild grapevines. Once you have checked out the page below, click the button to 'home' on her page to see more of her cool creations.
Cindy

Here is a link that might be useful: Kim's creations

NOTES:

Link to woven willow fencing
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RE: Garden Junk Paths and Patios? (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: wooderlander on 06.03.2006 at 09:03 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Here are some photos of the mosaic paths and patios in the old Suzhou gardens. Some are very simple and some are amazing. I warn you, there's a lot of them -- once I started, I felt I had to get a picture of every one of them.

Tomorrow we are starting our first "garden junk" project: breaking up an old concrete patio and using the pieces for a different patio in a shadier part of the yard. It's 97 degrees out but maybe we'll get it done. So that they would know what I'm talking about, I showed DH and our handyman pictures you all have posted above -- thanks, folks.

Here is a link that might be useful: garden paths

NOTES:

paths in ancient Chinese gardens.
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Check this out!

posted by: wackyweeder on 01.21.2006 at 10:31 am in Garden Junk Forum

I really got into the aeollian harp thing and have been reading up, in my travels I found these....


I visualize a whole tribe of these in my garden. Maybe they will keep the birds out of my beans, maybe they will just look cool. If you check out the site below, you can hear what they sound like.
WIND ORGAN

NOTES:

MUST MAKE!
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RE: Spiky Shade Plant (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: razorback33 on 06.08.2006 at 05:32 pm in Georgia Gardener Forum

You might consider the Sacred Lily, Rohdea japonica. Has tall, wide, strap-like foliage, similar to Cast Iron plant. Flowers are insignificant, but produces clusters of large red berries on the flower stalk, down inside the leaves. It is also available in several variegated forms.
Another plant I grow with rather tall spiky leaves is an Orchid, Calanthe sieboldii. Produces show stopping racemes of bright yellow flowers in the spring and multiplies fairly rapidly.
Both of these are evergreen, but another member of the Orchid Family that is hardy, but deciduous, is Bletilla striata that is available with purple/magenta, white or sometimes pink flowers. A white-edged, variegated leaf form is also available, with purple/magenta flowers. It's peer, with yellow flowers, is Bletilla ochracea, equally hardy and both multiply readilly.
All are tolerant of bright shady locations, but can be grown in a sunny exposure.
Rb

NOTES:

more perennial info
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