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What can I do with this LONG hallway?

posted by: cindylouhoo on 02.21.2008 at 06:47 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I've never made much of an attempt to dress this hallway up. It's soooo long - 29 1/2 ft. We have 3 doors on the right, one at the end, and 2 on the left. Any suggestions for wall art or color. It's too narrow to add any furniture pieces. We live in a late 60's early 70's ranch style house.
Photobucket
Photobucket

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clipped on: 02.23.2008 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 02.23.2008 at 10:45 am

Need help - Information about plants & shrubs for privacy

posted by: javaman24 on 08.18.2004 at 03:04 pm in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

Not sure if I am posting to the right forum. But here's my question.

I am looking for plants that I can use to block/privacy purposes. A section of my yard faces the road and I would like to put some plants (instead of a fence) so I can get some sense of privacy and cover. I am looking for something that can grow quickly and does not need a lot of maintenance (other than pruning)

I live in Philadelphia suburbs. Can someone suggest some appropriate plants or shrubs?

Thanks.

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clipped on: 02.16.2008 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 02.16.2008 at 11:45 am

RE: Invasive trumpet vine (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: susan6 on 05.06.2005 at 10:27 am in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

I've had excellent luck killing off stumps and things like Poison Ivy, Tree of Heaven, etc. by painting full strength brush killer on the freshly cut stump and then covering with a plastic bag affixed with a rubber band for the season. If you don't do that, the brush killer will wash down into the soil and kill everything within about a foot.

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clipped on: 02.16.2008 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 02.16.2008 at 10:50 am

RE: privacy screen?? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: vlf4230 on 10.14.2006 at 09:56 am in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

My parents have had an invasive type of bamboo for some 25 or 30 years now. Mowing does work just fine, is fast, and has kept it "contained". Every year it takes less and less time. In spring time you do get a short 2 to 3 week period (although this may vary with the variety) where little shoots pop up. They look like asparagus and don't taste too bad actually. This is the time to mow them down.

For those root systems that pop up where you can't mow like flower gardens or amidst rocks then we found cutting the stalk and putting some roundup in the shoot worked wonders. A few would survive and end up coming up as bushy little plants that did not spread.

In the areas where it was left to grow it developed into this dense forest that is beautiful. We cut a path through it years back and put in a flagstone set of stairs. It is really cool to just walk those stairs with the bamboo up and all around you.

Another nice thing with the bamboo is that it is very flexible so that for all those ice storms we see the stalks would just bend way over to the ground. Then once the sun warmed them enough that some ice would fall off the stalks shoot up like a slingshot showering everything with ice chips. It's like a little wonderland to walk underneath the bamboo when they are bent over like that.

Anyway, that's my experience with bamboo.

Jim

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see my microsoft word under shrubs also
clipped on: 02.16.2008 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 02.16.2008 at 10:47 am

RE: Can I use a holly as a privacy fence? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rhodyman on 02.26.2007 at 11:06 am in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

I sincerely apologize. I didn't mean to be aggressive. I just don't want newbies to think that the Thujas (arborvitaes) are not conifers and that holly is fast growing. Some people believe everything they read.

Someone else said that Douglas Fir is fast growing. It is in Oregon but not in Pennsylvania. It grows about half as fast as most pines, spruces and true firs like Concolor Fir in Pennsylvania.

Regarding a privacy fence, here are my recommendations:

Thuja "Green Giant": it is an arborvitae that if planted on 5' spacing will provide a privacy screen. They grow very quickly and will form a screen about 5' thick and about 25' tall. It is evergreen and will form a solid screen. It will take full sun and is very tolerant of soils. It is very cold hardy.

"Lelyand Cypress": it is a similar plant. Similar size. It is not as hardy but should be OK is SE PA. It doesn't grow quite as fast.

Both of these will probably have to be topped to keep from getting too tall.

A more costly solution that takes up less space is 'Skyrocket' juniper. A newer plant is 'Blue Arrow' juniper.
They are both cultivars of Juniper virginiana and do very well in this area in sun or partial shade. They grow more slowly but take up less space. If planted 18" apart they would form a screen about 18" deep and about 12' tall. They grow about 18" per year when young.

While I am on my truth in botany kick, did you know that there is a broad leaved conifer, one that has leaves rather than needles or scales. It is the yellowwood tree from South Africa. Its leaves are the size and shape of those on a weeping willow. However it is a Podocarpus which are conifers. It is sometimes called Japanese yew, or Buddhist pine but it is neither a yew or pine. I am not suggesting that anyone north of Florida grow it. I just found it interesting when someone told me that a tree that looked like a weeping willow was a conifer. I had never seen a conifer before that didn't look more like a pine or juniper. Here is a photo showing the leaves and cones.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wikipedia article on Podocarpus.

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clipped on: 02.16.2008 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 02.16.2008 at 10:32 am

RE: prices for stone walkway (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bobs2 on 04.10.2007 at 06:44 pm in Pennsylvania Gardening Forum

Blue stone might be easier to set. It comes in saw-cut squares and has a much more even (flatter) surface than flagstone. I'm trying to say that it is more finished when you buy it than flagstone. It is very common in PA, is not very expensive, and you can get it cut in a variety of sizes.

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clipped on: 02.16.2008 at 10:16 am    last updated on: 02.16.2008 at 10:17 am

thickness of granite for countertop

posted by: gingerjars on 02.12.2008 at 11:54 am in Kitchens Forum

What are the pro's and con's of the 2 and 3cc thickness? Everything is moving along very fast and I need to make some decisions in the next two days.
Please elaborate on the difference in looks (pics), price difference and durability.
Anyone have problems with using 2?
Appreciate all info!

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clipped on: 02.12.2008 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2008 at 08:04 pm

RE: Slide in range in an island (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: seedsilly on 02.08.2008 at 09:18 am in Kitchens Forum

phillyhaus: I found these insturctions by celticmoon to be very easy to follow. Couldn't understand any of the other instructions! I'd love to see pictures, if you have the time.

OK here's the new, even more broken down version:
"How do I embed a picture in my post?
Your picture needs first to live somewhere on the Internet. Then you type the pictures Internet address into your message and the picture appears right in your post in the spot where you typed that address code. Heres how to do it - explained step by step for those new to posting. (Quick and dirty version for advanced users to be added soon):

-First get your pictures into the Internet: Photobucket is one free, easy and widely used photo-storing site. There are others but well go with this one. Go to Photobucket.com. and open a free account. Your home page is My Album. There are long blank boxes on the right with browse buttons next to them. Click on browse and poke around to find the picture on your hard drive or (connected) camera drive. Click one to select it, and the browse button is replaced by a red remove , and a tiny version of your picture appears to the left. You can give your picture a title in the box if you like. Next click on the upload button just below. Site will tell you upload is occuring. Then you should be able to scroll down and see the picture living in your Internet album. Continue to move pictures from your digital camera or from your computer. Each then will have its own Internet address.

-Next resize your picture: This is important etiquette - otherwise your picture will post giant and make people have to scroll to the right to read every line of the thread. Not cool. So be nice and resize your picture first. Above your picture in Photobucket, click on the blue edit button. This opens a window with your picture. Above the picture, click on resize. Select websize for a regular size and message board for larger to show more detail. Confirm in the popup warning box. You should see your picture resized.

-Post the picture in your message: Go to your picture in Photobucket. Look on the right for four boxes, each with computer code related to your picture. The third one down is the HTLM tag that looks like >ahref =http Copy that line of code and paste it right into the body of your message on the Kitchen Forum. Not into the boxes at the bottom, right into the messsage you are typing.
Check if it worked: Click on the Preview button to see your message. That address code should have been replaced with the actual picture. If the sizing isnt right try clicking your refresh button. Sometimes Photobucket is slow. "

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clipped on: 02.12.2008 at 07:37 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2008 at 07:37 pm

Quercus Bicolor Oak Tree

posted by: rosieq on 02.10.2008 at 05:19 pm in Trees Forum

Our landscape designer suggested we plant several of these oak trees, Quercus Biclor. I don't know anyone who has them and I haven't seen them except online.
Anyone have one or several of these oaks?
Any comments, positive or negative about them would be helpful.
Are they easy to maintain? expensive to buy? Are they messy?

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clipped on: 02.10.2008 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2008 at 05:19 pm

RE: Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it. (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: rmlanza on 08.11.2007 at 01:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm telling you, the finished end panels are so outrageously expensive. That's where they rake in the dough, I mean litterally, it probably costs them at most $20 to make them and they charge hundreds. We always wanted to tile under our penninsula bar eventually anyway so it doesn't make sense to shell out the money. My husband was so thrilled that I saved us the $1200 it would cost to add those that we ended up buying new appliances, something we weren't originally going to add to our budget. I'd much rather have a new fridge, dishwasher, microwave and range (even if they came in well over the $1200 we saved on the panels) than some perfectly matched beadboard! It's definitely worth thinking about!

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clipped on: 02.10.2008 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2008 at 04:19 pm

RE: Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it. (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: rmlanza on 08.10.2007 at 12:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I ordered the tilt outs for my sink and it was only like $20. I figure if I don't use it, it's not a big loss but I didn't want the suction cup basket thing I used to use for sponges or to have to go rooting around under the cabinet for the sink plug on the rare occasions that I actually use it. And if you're trying to save $1600, a sink tilt out isn't going to get you close. I'd go more for a trim style or end panels or something. We figured out that if we ordered the matching beadboard end panels for our island and the back of our bar from our cabinet company it would have cost us $1200. You can go buy unfinished 4'x8' sheets of beadboard for less than $20 and stain them yourself or even paint them a contrasting color. We are doing ours in a distressed black to match our entertainment console in our family room. And things like the crown molding, too. You can easily do that yourself for a LOT less than the cabinet makers charge. You may even be able to get your stain from them so you can match it perfectly.
Good luck!

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ask hd and lowes for stain info
clipped on: 02.10.2008 at 04:11 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2008 at 04:11 pm

LED light development

posted by: ready2remodel on 05.19.2007 at 12:55 pm in Lighting Forum

Thanks to Davidr for your informative posting and for the link to Don's amazing web page http://members.misty.com/don/light.html

We are just about to start a remodel of our kitchen and want to "do the right thing" in lighting, so we looked at LED recessed can lights at a local "green building supply" retailer. In contrast to postings on this forum, we found a warm light fixture in the retailer's showroom that looked really bright! Could it be true that the technology has succeeded?! Of course, the sticker shock
factor on the price was definitely there. The lights
I am referring to are part of a lighting group called
"Enbryten LED Lighting" manufactured by a company by
the name of Permlight. Here's a link for your
benefit:
http://www.permlight.com/productlist.asp?catid=52
As Don pointed out in his site, the manufacturer describes brightness as a comparison to incandescent bulb equivalent output rather than using lumens. We are trying to grasp what this will mean in reality as we are by no means lighting experts. Anybody familiar with this light or any LED products that would sufficiently light a kitchen while saving energy? We are also thinking of using an "instant-on" type of CFL for pendants over the center island. Another thing we saw with our own eyes (my DW is about to kill me for putting a CFL over the computer desk. She says it takes forever to get bright enough).

Thanks, all.

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clipped on: 02.10.2008 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2008 at 03:24 pm

RE: Need fast growing, evergreen, hedge in total shade! Help! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: diggingthedirt on 01.14.2008 at 09:41 pm in Shrubs Forum

While I agree that the maple roots will be a problem, it's not an insurmountable one for the right kind of plants; you really need something that can accept dry shade, and the choices are limited. Your success will depend on the distance away from the maples, the *kind* of maples, your ability to get water to the young plants, and your choice of plants for this hedge.

Euonymus kiautschovicus is a non-invasive, fast growing, somewhat lax evergreen shrubby vine that will grow in fairly dense shade. I have it near maples and spruces, and it does fine, but you'll need to mulch well and run a soaker hose along the base of the plants to make sure they get enough water while they're getting established. 'Manhattan' is the most popular cultivar, but I've read that it may not be as hardy as the species (though that's not an issue for me). I have both and they do well here - very easy to root cuttings too, if you have the time for that. They actually have wonderful masses of tiny white flowers that absolutely buzz with insects in summer, even in deep shade, followed by decent pink berries.

I've also had very good luck with yews in deep shade. There are upright ones that will stay fairly narrow, I have some growing along a stockade fence, starting about 10' from the trunk of an old maple, where it's incredibly dry. Same goes for watering, though; soaker hose on a timer will be needed for the plants to compete.

Neither of these plants will grow as quickly as they would in an area without the kind of competition that maple roots provide, but they will grow and cover that fence for you.

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 05:36 pm

RE: creeping ground hugging evergreen (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bogie on 08.29.2007 at 06:10 am in Shrubs Forum

Not quite evergreen, but close is Rockspray Cotoneaster (horizontalis). I find that it is green until it is so deep in snow that you can't see it anyway, and perks right back up in early spring. A bonus is the red berries (self-fertile) in the fall. Mine gets to be about 2 1/2 feet tall and it spreads quite a distance.

Then there is creeping phlox, if you want something that is really short.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rockspray Cotoneaster

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 04:54 pm

RE: Shrub removal help. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: laag on 02.04.2008 at 08:56 pm in Landscape Design Forum

Don't prune them down to nubs. Leave a big strong stalk or two for leverage. Cut around the plant with a straight edge spade overlaping cuts so that you are slicing through all of the root. Then use a regular shovel to dig a trench around the plant outside of that cut line. Try rocking the root using the stalk (stem, trunk, or whatever you want to call it). Find the remaining roots that are holding it in and cut those. In some cases you'll need a saw. Keep undermining the root ball and cutting roots until you can push over the stump using the trunk. Eventually it will be free and you can remove it.

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clipped on: 02.09.2008 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2008 at 03:32 pm