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RE: Pop up ads....grrrrr (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: olychick on 01.26.2015 at 10:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a post copied from another thread telling you how to disable the vibrant ads...

"I got a reply from GW people this morning to do the following to stop the ads. It involves the green underlined words we sometimes see, but it stopped the obnoxious ads.

"I apologize for any inconvenience these ads as have caused you. We appreciate getting feedback from our members, and I have reported the pop-up issue to our community manager.

In the meantime, you should be able to opt-out of the in-line (green underlined) texts by following these instructions:

1. When you're on a GardenWeb page, hover your cursor on the double-underlined word, but don't click it. You will see an advertisement open in a pop-up box.

2. In the upper-left corner of the box, click the 'V' logo. A new browser window will open the Vibrant in-text advertising page.

3. Scroll partially down this page, and click the 'Disable' tab. Click 'Click here to disable.' The page should update to now say 'Click here to enable.'

4. Close the Vibrant in-text advertising browser window, then once you refresh your main browser window the Vibrant in-text advertising should disappear."


clipped on: 01.27.2015 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2015 at 02:26 pm

RE: Best sealer for White Thassos (and another stone)? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: niffy on 03.17.2010 at 09:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ok, I'm weighing in here because I actually have the STT SB sealer on all the countertops in our house. We are going to add the second part - the FE- to our marble island. We hadn't planned to initially, and I will say that everything we've thrown at it so far in just the SB state(with the below EXTREME exception) has come off easily, including a tomato "stain" on the counter that ultimately self destructed. We've had dried on spaghetti sauce on our backsplash that has wiped away with no trace.... Coffee on my coffee bar - no problem. The reason we are getting the FE is that we were traumatized before closing and after original sealing: our builder's cleaning crew took the burgundy felt covers off our Rohl faucets and must have left them sitting for hours or days in a puddle of water on the countertop. RED DYE leached from the "protective" covers that had been removed - and stained the bejeezus out of our new, unused, honed statuary island. Horrifying doesn't begin to cover it! If you wet one of those covers and wring it out, dark pink dye comes pouring out into the sink! No porous stone would have been unscathed with that sitting on it, unattended....

John, (aka your advisor "doitright" over on JB forum), spent 4 days at our house restoring the tops. Stain is gone! Took a whole lot of chemicals (and even flames- don't ask!) but it looks perfect. A lesser human would've given up that first day, but lucky for us, he became obsessed with removing those stains completely. So- we are adding the FE because we were so stressed by the experience, but without the SB already in place, we all think we'd have been totally S.O.L. John has rags he uses to apply it that have been repeatedly washed - you can't GET them wet with water - everything beads up on them! And after the intensive stain removal we've been through with him, I value his opinions on all things stone more than ever. We had really debated about whether to spend a lot of money on a sealer (STT products are expensive!!) but are very glad we did.


John, do intrigue on JB forum.
clipped on: 01.06.2015 at 12:11 am    last updated on: 01.06.2015 at 12:11 am

RE: Need help figuring out haze issue (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kevdp4 on 12.21.2014 at 06:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dump those cleaner/polishes and use Granquartz 3 in 1 Cleaner Polish, Easy Stone Care's Easy Oxy Daily Cleaner or Stone Pro Finishing Touch Ultra. They should easily return the stone to it's original shine.

The cleaners are leaving a residue build up, the cleaners I listed will not.


clipped on: 12.21.2014 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2014 at 11:31 pm

RE: Diatomaceous Earth (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dhaven on 12.04.2014 at 09:15 am in Hosta Forum

DE is the single best slug killer available. I try to sprinkle it liberally on every new bed I make, and have virtually no slug problems.

You want the food grade DE without any additives, it's available at a very reasonable price from some feed stores and pool supply places. Just shake it on, spread it by hand, or put it in a talcum powder container or one of those pizza place parmesan sprinklers, and shake lightly over any infested plants, taking care to get it down into the stems. I also sprinkle it around plants, which keeps the slugs from getting to the hostas at all.

DE works because it is made up of the tiny exoskeletons of diatoms, which are microscopic aquatic animals. The tiny pieces are very sharp, and they pierce the skin of the slug and eventually kill it. DE is safe for songbirds, it is used as a wormer for livestock, including alpacas and domestic pets, and as a flea killer for dogs and cats. It is not good for your earthworms, but won't wipe them out, just slightly reduce the numbers.

Although DE is organic, non-toxic, and safe to handle without gloves, as with any fine particulate, avoid breathing it in as much as possible. One good application in the garden will last for many years. Some people claim that DE washes away in rain, and is therefore ineffective, but this is not the case--it gets into every nook and cranny and still deters slugs even if you can no longer see it. One of my original hosta beds at my current place is over 20 years old, got DE applied when I created the bed, and I've yet to see any slug damage to that bed. A bed 6 feet away that didn't get DE has slug damage every year.


clipped on: 12.05.2014 at 02:45 am    last updated on: 12.05.2014 at 02:46 am

Have you cooked a turkey on convection roast?

posted by: ilene-84 on 09.02.2013 at 11:04 am in Kitchens Forum

I haven't used the convection roast on my oven yet (have not used convection for anything yet). For some reason I find it intimidating and confusing. My oven has a meat probe, I haven't used either. Please tell me how you cooked your turkey using convection roast....I read to tent after it browns? This will be a "practice" turkey, only 12 pounds. Im having thanksgiving again here this year. Thanks in advance for your help.


clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 12:49 am

RE: Ann T. Your Pizza Recipe is Perfect (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ann_t on 03.10.2010 at 09:33 am in Cooking Forum


Here is the recipe for Julia Child's French Baguettes. On my days off each week, I usually make a double batch of this bread dough. The dough goes into the fridge after it's first rise and is left for two to three days. This long cold fermentation develops more flavour and texture in the bread and makes the perfect dough for a pizza crust.

Thin crust with a light,airy, chewy rim.

How I Make My Pizza

Home Cookin Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

French Baguette
Julia Child

1 package dry active yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons)
3 1/2 cups unbleached flour (bread flour) (NOTE: I use 4 cups)
2 1/4 tsp salt
1 1/3 cups cold water plus 1/3 or so additional water

Place the flour, yeast and salt in the bowl of the food process. Pulse to mix. Add 1 1/3 cups of water and process until the dough comes together. If the dough doesn't form a ball, add a little of the extra water. Process for about 60 seconds, turn off machine and let dough rest for 5 minutes.

Turn on the machine again and rotate the dough about 30 times under the cover, and then remove it to a lightly floured work surface. it should be fairly smooth and quite firm.

Let the dough rest for 2 minutes and then knead roughly and vigorously. The final dough should not stick to your hands as you knead (although it will stick if you pinch and hold a piece); it should be smooth and elastic and, when you hold it up between your hands and stretch it down, it should hold together smoothly.

Preliminary rise - 40 to 60 minutes at around 75�F. Place the dough into a clean dry bowl, (do not grease the bowl), cover with plastic wrap, and set in a warm place free from drafts. (note the French do not grease the bowl because they believe the dough needs a seat to push up from). This first rise is sufficient when the dough has definitely started to rise and is about 1 1/2 times its original volume.


Turn the dough onto your lightly floured work surface roughly and firmly pat and push it out into a 14 inch rectangle. Fold one of the long sides over toward the middle, and the other long side over to cover it, making a 3 layer cushion. Repeat the operation. This important step redistributes the yeast throughout the dough, for a strong second rise. Return the dough smooth side up the bowl; cover with plastic wrap and again set to rise.

Final rise in the bowl - about 1 to 1 1/2 hours or longer. The bread should be 2 1/2 to 3 times its original bulk. It is the amount of rise that is important here, not the timing.

To Shape,

Cut the dough in half. Set one piece aside and cover with a towel.

On a lightly floured work surface pat the dough into a 14 inch rectangle, squaring it up as evenly as you can.

Fold the rectangle of dough in half lengthwise and using the heel of your hand, firmly press the edges together whether they meet. Seat well. Pound the dough flat. Now repeat - patting the dough out again and folding it over and sealing the edges. Pinch the edges well and Rotate the dough so that the sealed edge in on the bottom.

Repeat with second piece of dough.

Cover with plastic wrap or loosely with a towel and let rise to more than double again at about 75�f.

Place stone in oven and Preheat oven to 450�F. Slash three long cuts into the loaves and place on the hot stone. Immediately toss a number of ice cubes on to the bottom on the oven to create steam. Bake until bread is golden and has an interior temp of 200�F. Takes about 30 minutes.

Making Dough in a Mixer or by Hand

When you are making dough in an electric mixer with a dough hook, proceed in the same general way with the rests indicated, and finish by hand. or mix the dough by hand in a bowl, turn out on a work surface, and start the kneading by lifting it up with a scraper and slapping it down roughly for several minutes until it has body. Let it rest several minutes and then proceed to knead.

This is the recipe I use as a basic outline. I use it more as a guideline.

I have a Magic Mill that I use to do most of the kneading. I still like to finish kneading by hand.


clipped on: 11.05.2014 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 11.05.2014 at 12:21 am

RE: LOOKING for: panera bread fuji apple dressing (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: carmel_ca on 01.12.2009 at 01:37 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

Fuji Apple Pecan Chicken Salad
6 cups mixed field greens (such as arugula, radicchio, curly endive, etc.)
1-1/2 cup cooked, shredded rotisserie chicken breast
1/3 cup Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted
2 oz. apple chips
Tomato and onion slices
For Apple White Balsamic Vinaigrette:

2 Tbsp. apple juice concentrate
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp. garlic powder
1/3 cup olive oil


See other recipe for alternate dressing
clipped on: 11.03.2014 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2014 at 11:38 pm

RE: LOOKING for: panera bread fuji apple dressing (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: carolynjoy on 08.24.2009 at 01:55 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

I tried several of these similar recipes for the fuji apple salad dressing before I realized that the dressing is not a vinaigrette. It's actually not like any other salad dressing recipe I could find. It's more like a dressing for a fruit salad, which is why it's so good!

But I did find a way to recreate it quite accurately. If you don't believe me, just try it: compare the dressing from Panera (which has no vinegar taste and no garlic taste) to this recipe:

1/2 cup apple juice concentrate
1/2 cup creme fraiche (or sour cream if you can't find it)
2 T. honey

You can change around the proportions to your taste, but I believe those are the only ingredients you will need.


clipped on: 11.03.2014 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2014 at 11:36 pm

Bake Day.... Cream cheese babka and sourdough...........

posted by: ann_t on 01.21.2008 at 04:56 pm in Cooking Forum

Made a Biga last night and sourdough bread this morning. And then decided that while I was at it I might as well knead up a sweet dough too. Made a round cream cheese Babka and a long one, shaped like the cream cheese danish.

Two loaves and two small baguettes.

We had one of the small baguettes with homemade turkey noodle soup for lunch.

Lots of holes.

Dessert was a slice of the Babka.


clipped on: 10.29.2014 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2014 at 10:56 pm

RE: Photos/Type of Soapstone Countertops (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: vwhippiechick on 10.28.2014 at 10:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Amazon from Maine Soapstone. We've had it for about six years and it has worn like iron. I do oil it infrequently. I really love it. One of my favorite selections in our kitchen remodel.


clipped on: 10.29.2014 at 01:54 am    last updated on: 10.29.2014 at 01:55 am

marble granite counter tops etching

posted by: snowbean on 10.08.2014 at 08:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm passing this along because these solutions for etching problems helped us. Credits and website are given at the end . I have no financial interest in this and I am just a home owner with no commercial interests. I helped my mother with her counter top etch and grease marks. Enjoy reading !
Removing Stains from Marble and other Natural Stones

Some of the more common poulticing materials and powders are:
cotton balls
paper towels
gauze pads

Stain Removal Guide
All solutions are given starting with the gentlest method first.

1. Iron Stains (rust)
Poultice with on the the following:
a. Sodium citrate and glycerin or
b. Ammononium Oxalate or
c. Oxalic Acid or
d. Orthophosphoric Acid and Sodium Salt of EDTA in water or
e. Dilute Hydrofluoric Acid or
f. cannot be removed, is part of the stone

2. Ink
Poultice with one of the following:
a. Light colored marbles only use Bleach or Hydrogen Peroxide;
b. Dark marbles use Lacquer Thinner or Acetone;
c. Methyl Chloride

3. Oil Based Stains (grease, cooking oil, tar, food stains, etc.)
Clean with:
a. Scouring Power with Bleach or
b. Household Detergent or
c. Ammonia or
d. Mineral spirits or
poultice with:
e. Baking Soda or
f. Mineral Spirits or
g. Methyl chloride

4. Organic Stains (paper, tea, coffee, cosmetics, fruit, tobacco, etc.)
a. Pour Hydrogen Peroxide 35% directly on stain and add a few drops of ammonia, leave until bubbling stop ors
b. Repeat above but add poultice or
c. Acetone or Toluene or Xylene

5. Efflorescence
Poultice with:
a. Distilled Water

6. Copper Stains
Poultice with:
a. Ammonium Chloride or
b. Ammonium Hydroxide

7. Biological Stains (Lichens, algae, moss, fungi, mildew, etc.)
Clean with:
a. Dilute Ammonia or
b. Bleach or
c. Hydrogen Peroxide or
d. Sodium Hypochiorite

8. Wax (Acrylic yellowing coatings)
Strip with:
Alkaline Stripper

9. Urethane Coatings
a. Methyl Chloride or
b. Grinding

10. Crystallization coatings
a. Strip with Oxalic Acid based Stripper or
b. Methyl Chloride

11. Paint
a. Alkaline Paint Remover
b. Methyl Chloride

12. Grout and Thin Set Residue
a. Scrub with neutral cleaner and red pad or
b. Re-polish

13. Scratches
a. Re-polish or
b. Re-hone

14. Streaking
a. Buff with felt pad-dry or
b. 0000 Steel wool-dry or
c. Re-polish

15. Acid/Alkaline Etching
a. Re-polish or
b. Re-hone

16. Stuns/Crystal Fractures

17.Water Spots and Rings
a. Buff with a dry 0000 Steel wool or
b. Re-polish or
c. Re-hone

18. Discoloration
Clean with:
a. Alkaline Stripper or
Poultice with:
b. Bleach or
c. Hydrogen Peroxide or
d. Re-hone and polish

19. Swirl Marks from steel wool
a. Re-polish or
b. Re-hone

20. Random Dull Spots
a. Check for etching or
b. Re-polish

21.Excess Lippage

22. Warped Tiles
Remove and Replace

23. Loose Tiles
Remove and Reset

If the problem is serious in nature or too large in size. consider using the services
of a qualified stone restoration expert in your area.

Frediric M. Hueston has a degree in Chemistry and is also an experienced and accomplished marble and stone craftsman, Founder and president of Cambridge Floor Care Systems, based in Winter Park, Florida. Hueston is a recognized leader in the marble and stone care and restoration field.

Hueston is a member of Building Stone Institute's Marble (and stone) Care and Maintenance Committee.


clipped on: 10.08.2014 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2014 at 11:58 pm

RE: Snails & slugs (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: shavedmonkey on 10.06.2014 at 12:41 am in Orchids Forum

Get sluggo! There are 2 types. One with an extra poison and one without. Get without the poison. It is made from iron. Can be used on a garden. Safe for humans and animals. The snails and slugs are attracted to the iron. They eat it and die.

If you see a few they are in your yard. I use a hand spreader. I spread it on all planted areas. Everywhere but the grass.

If you have a small yard one or 2, 1 pound box of sluggo. Get it from Home depot at around $9 a lb.

But if you have a big yard get a 25lb bag $80 to $100 a bag depending on freight. Between my neighbors and members of my society we got 6 bags to improve the freight. It is about $60 plus freight. my first bag costed $50 freight buying it alone one bag at a time. Still a very big savings over h depot.

The 25 lbs lasted me about 3 years. Works out to around $3 a pound. is the link where I bought it. What a coincidence! I have 6 bags arriving today!

It melts away in 10 days depending on the rain. If your neighbors participate the benefits are longer lasting. If you have snails and slugs it seems the best you can do is control them. Cant be eliminated.

Damn things are nasty. They eat anything. Especially like the new tender growths. They especially like garden seed germinations. When I sow seeds I put down some pellets. I might repeat if the germination is more than 10 days. Like cilantro.

There are giant snails the size of your fist down in Miami. Invasive. And the carry a nasty bacteria.

I am the president of the dead snail society. Send me your $$$


clipped on: 10.06.2014 at 12:44 am    last updated on: 10.06.2014 at 12:44 am

RE: farrow and ball paint - worth it for cabs? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: rococogurl on 10.03.2014 at 08:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

homepro -- For exterior I highly recommend Fine Paints of Europe Dutchlac, an oil base paint. We have winter weather, moisture and direct sun. So water based did not hold up.

No experience with F&B exterior but, in general, the semi and high gloss paints are very durable. Expect exterior would be one of those.

Would love to hear what you decide. A door in Babouche would be great.


clipped on: 10.04.2014 at 12:03 am    last updated on: 10.04.2014 at 12:04 am

How to embed photos in a post

posted by: greedyghost on 06.16.2011 at 12:59 am in Hoya Forum

Here's a short guide to posting images in the forum. You can use this guide if your photos have been uploaded to Flickr or Photobucket, or if you simply know the photo's url at your preferred image host.



Most image hosts make it easy for you to find the code you need right on their websites. All you need to do is navigate to your photo, find the share menu, and copy the code identified as HTML.

On Flickr it is here:


On Photobucket it is here:




Next, you need to paste the code in the Message field at GardenWeb. Do NOT use the field for posting a link, below.




When you hit "Preview Message," if you have the code right, you will be able to see the images.




Once you have the correct code, you can tweak it to fit your preferences. You can change the image size, add a border, etc.


Here I have both my Flickr and Photobucket images at the sizes I want. It is good forum etiquette to resize large photos so that people do not have to scroll in order to see the whole image. When you post photos that are too large, it can make it harder to read all the posts in that thread, not just your own.



[Alternate Method]

The most simple way to post an image is to use the very basic code shown below. When using this code in conjunction with photos at an image host like Flickr, right click on the photo and select "Copy image location" to get the url you want.



clipped on: 10.02.2014 at 01:55 am    last updated on: 10.02.2014 at 01:55 am

RE: Please just tell me this is ok, I can't take another issue! (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: jakuvall on 09.01.2014 at 12:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

OP-To see if the drawers can be adjusted enough to suit you try one yourself. Attached is a picture. From the looks of your level they are just a little beyond the built in adjustment. Naturally doors will also need to be adjusted and at some point if things are seriously off it will show in the reveal at the bottom of the cabinets. A careful installer should be able to "cheat" reveals so things don't look bad.

Within the adjustment available there will be no impact on performance or longevity of the glides. Since you already have hardware installed adjusting drawerheads to boxes would be a headache and less than ideal.

Should they be off that much? -NO.
Is it a big problem?-with overlay cabinets not really but it is if you feel it is.
Will it affect the counter installation over time?- Tre or someone else could better answer that but if the stone is fully supported over its' length I don' see why. Better than a shim every 3 ft IMO.

Where/who is the problem?-First and foremost the cabinet installer - the job is to install plumb, level and square, then the counter installer AND the GC.
Why not the mfg?- it is all too easy to rack cabinets during installation. It is also easy to straighten slight imperfections in installation (especially on pocket hole cabinets). That is the installers job- install plumb level and square.

Example- I handle two better brands of inset cabinets. One is doweled together the other is mortise and tenon. They always come dead straight and square. The cabinet is stiff compared to a pocket hole cabinet. The M&T cabinet has only an 1/8" reveal and mortised hinges that allow very little adjustment. I warn installers that they must back installation screws completely with shims and not to over torque them.
Every now and then I get a call that the cabinet door is rubbing. I go to the job levels in hand and something is always off. Most of the time all that is needed is to relieve the pressure on one or two screws, shim it and gently tighten it back up. Voila reveal magically is straight and true.

Levels- I'm with Mongrel on this- the only 4 ft I own is a masonry level that I wouldn't allow near a cabinet. I keep an ok torpedo, and quality 16" , 2', 3' and 6' (along with two on my phone, one on the tablet and a bubble lippage level for tile.) As a homeowner I use the 2 and 6 most.
As a KD the 16" lives in my "go visit bag". When I pull up to the home during installation the 16, a tape measure, and notebook go with me. The 6 ft comes along on measures, when a problem is brought up, or during installation if I didn't see one there to begin with.

Why should I have to check? as noted above even just a glorified cabinet salesman I need a couple of reliable levels at my disposal all the time. If your KD is not as pissy as me; then yes, you WANT to be able to check things. Folks are often asking here what to check BEFORE ordering or signing, well there are things worth checking DURING...It is a lot easier to take care of issues before completion than after. No one is perfect and you end up paying for it and living with it.

If money is tight send DH to buy it, be careful with whatever packaging, then when done, go back and return it. You can have fun making up a story that DH is all thumbs and was nuts to buy it :) First run around the house and check a few things just for fun.

oops, forgot to include adjustment info for you.

This post was edited by jakuvall on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 13:20


clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 01:51 pm

RE: How did you make your island look like furniture? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: cal_quail on 08.12.2014 at 09:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

For bold and italic, they're html tags.

< b >

(but with no spaces) before something and the same thing with a / included before the b, placed at the end of the thing makes it bold.
Change the b to an i and you get italics.

html tags always (I think) open and close like that. the < xsomething> opens and < /xsomething> closes the 'phrase' or 'instruction'.

That is my totally self-taught, not-to-sure html lesson for today.

Here is a link that might be useful: where I go to 'learn' the little bit of html I know


clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 11:01 pm

Finished White Kitchen Mini Reveal

posted by: WMA89 on 08.08.2014 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

This forum was invaluable when we we designing and overseeing the build of our kitchen remodel. I learned so much about what makes a kitchen not only work aesthetically, but functionally as well. I love, love this new kitchen. There is a designated place for everything, which makes keeping it organized so much easier. We finished the kitchen about six months ago. The remodel turned into a bit of a nightmare and took 15 months. I've been so busy getting settled back into the house that I've neglected posting the final results.

This kitchen remodel was part of a fairly major remodel of the living areas of a late 60s brick ranch we purchased two years ago. The original kitchen was tiny, as you can see in the photos. We took down the wall between the kitchen and small family room. We also pushed a couple feet into an oversized foyer, as well as a foot into the existing dining room in order to make more space for the kitchen. The ceiling was already vaulted in the family room, but we extended this into the kitchen during the remodel. If I were to pick my two favorite things about this kitchen it would be the Corian Sea Salt countertops and the Franke Orca sink. I love, love these countertops. These are a maintenance breeze, and I love the way they feel. Many people, including my builder, were skeptical when I said I wanted Corian but were blown away with the results. I also really like having all the drawers for dishes, as well as the small drawers in the glass hutch where I store flatware. Makes unloading the dishwasher so easy! Here are some basic details:

Cabinets: Custom
Cabinet Paint: BM Simply White
Counters: Corian Sea Salt
Island top: Mahogany with dark walnut stain
Sink: Franke Orca
Fridge: Sub zero
Rangetop: Wolf
Wall oven: KitchenAid
Hood: Superior
Floors: Oak, stained with dark walnut/provincial mix

Thanks so much to everyone on the Kitchen Forum who answered my questions and shared ideas. I owe you all!
 photo oldkitchen1_zpsabd2972a.jpg
 photo oldkitchen2_zps06cd1e97.jpg
After: photo fullshotkitchen_zps399bdebb.jpg
 photo bakingcenter_zps14c84118.jpg
 photo cooktopwallclose_zps6131a4a2.jpg photo hutchkitchen_zps3abf0180.jpg photo islandclose_zpse00fe6f1.jpg photo fridgewall_zpsb4b0defc.jpg photo countertopclose_zps703f740f.jpg


clipped on: 08.11.2014 at 12:41 am    last updated on: 08.11.2014 at 12:42 am

RE: Why do people chose the commercial (deeper) depth range? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: oldbat2be on 07.31.2014 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi happytimes,

Different option here. We have 30" countertops, which is a HUGE benefit, on our cooktop run. Lower cabinets are all 24" (which in hindsight, I wish I'd made deeper, i.e., the full 30 or add'l 3" at least) - all pulled forward 6". Our 48" Capital Culinarian (and adjacent pullouts) are pulled forward an additional 3". Three years later, I have to admit rarely ever cleaning the backsplash.

Cooktop pulled forward 9":

Between cooktop edge and island edge (prep sink and prep area) is 39". Perfect for prepping, twirl, throw into skillet. Fine for multiple people cooking at same time as well.

I like the 24" range pulled forward (backsplash stays cleaner). Also, with 30" deep countertops, I have 18" deep uppers, so store my large serving bowls vertically (and spices on the doors).

Last - huge plug for the 30" countertops. Love 'em!

But of course, probably any change will be a huge improvement. Here is my old layout (which produced so many happy and successful meals):

Good luck!!

This post was edited by oldbat2be on Thu, Jul 31, 14 at 20:47


clipped on: 08.01.2014 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 08.01.2014 at 09:59 am

RE: Which Makes Best Pancakes - Electric Griddle or Griddle on St (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: annie1992 on 10.26.2009 at 02:15 pm in Cooking Forum

kaelkriver, the best recipe depends on what you like. I tend to like thin, tender pancakes or whole grain pancakes. My girls like light and fluffy pancakes. Elery doesn't even like pancakes, LOL, but he likes hoecakes.

At Christmas I make gingerbread pancakes and nearly everyone likes those, and of course, there are the lemon ricotta pancakes, I think those came from cookingrvc.

Anyway, here are Ann T's thin and tender pancakes:

Home Cookin 4.9 Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table
2 cups milk
juice from 1/2 lemon
2 eggs
6 Tablespoons melted butter or margarine
2 Tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 cup of flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
Maple Syrup.
. Add the lemon juice to the milk, Melt the butter in the microwave
In a blender mix, eggs, milk and butter. Add the flour,salt, sugar, baking
soda and baking powder.
Mix until blended.
Heat griddle and brush lightly with margarine.
Pour out batter to desired size and when top side has bubbled flip and cook
for about 20 to 30 seconds on flip side.
Place in low oven to remain warm while you cook the rest.
NOTE: For something a little different add some chocolate to the batter and serve with raspberries.

These are thin and tender pancakes, not light and fluffy.

Here is my family's favorite, the light and fluffy ones, recipe from Marilyn, a prior poster:

Buttermilk Pancakes

1 cup flour
1 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
pinch of salt
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup buttermilk

Sift flour, baking powder, sugar, baking soda and salt together. Combine remaining ingredients and whisk into dry ingredients until mixture is smooth. Pour by large spoonfuls onto non-stick griddle that has been pre-heated to 350� and cook until top is bubbly. Carefully turn over and continue cooking until done. These are very light pancakes. Makes 5 (5 1/2-inch) pancakes.

I love these lemon ricotta pancakes:

Lemon-Ricotta Hot Cakes
6 large eggs,separated
1 1/2 c whole-milk ricotta cheese
1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 t pure vanilla extract
1/2 c all purpose flour
1/4 c sugar
1/2 t salt
2 T lemon zest
Powdered sugar for dusting
Heat a griddle.
Whip egg whites until they hold firm glossy peaks, and set aside. Beat ricotta, butter, egg yolks, and vanilla together and set aside. Whisk together flour, sugar, salt, and zest. With a rubber spatula, stir dry ingredients gently into the ricotta mixture. Stir a spoonful of whipped egg whites into the batter then gently fold
in the remainder.
Grease the heated griddle, if necessary. Drop 3 tablespoons of batter for each hotcake on the griddle, allowing space for spreading.
Cook until golden on the bottom and the top shows a bubble or two. Gently flip, and cook until undersides are light brown. Dust with powdered sugar.

The Christmas Gingerbread breakfast pancakes which we serve with maple syrup and sometimes sauteed apples:


1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
1 1/2 cups whole or lowfat milk
1 large egg
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 tablespoons dark (not light or blackstrap) molasses
Nonstick cooking spray
1. Stir together the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves in a large mixing bowl.
2. Measure the milk into a large glass measuring cup. Crack the egg into the cup and beat lightly with a fork to break up the egg. Stir in the cooled melted butter and molasses.
3. Pour the liquid ingredients into the mixing bowl and stir with a wooden spoon until the dry ingredients are moistened. Don�t worry if there are some small lumps.
4. Heat the griddle and spray with cooking spray.
5. Pour some of the batter on to the griddle (about � cup per pancake). Cook the pancakes until they are golden brown. Serve immediately with maple syrup or Apple Cider Syrup or keep them warm in a preheated 200F degree oven on a platter loosely covered with aluminum foil. Repeat with the remaining batter, spraying the cooking surface with more cooking spray before beginning each new batch.
Serves 4.

And my own favorite, the multi-grain pancakes:

Four-Grain Pancakes

� 1-1/4 cups whole wheat flour
� 1 cup regular rolled oats
� 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal
� 1/4 cup toasted wheat germ
� 1 Tbsp. flax seeds (optional)
� 1 Tbsp. baking powder
� 1/2 tsp. salt
� 1/4 tsp. baking soda
� 2 eggs, lightly beaten
� 2 cups buttermilk or sour milk (see note)
� 1/4 cup canola oil or cooking oil
� 2 Tbsp. packed brown sugar or honey
1. In a large bowl, stir together flour, oats, cornmeal, wheat germ, flax seeds, if you like, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture; set aside.
2. In a small bowl, use a fork to combine eggs, buttermilk, oil, and brown sugar. Add egg mixture all at once to flour mixture. Stir just until moistened (batter should be slightly lumpy but thick).
3. For each standard-size pancake: Pour about 1/4 cup batter onto a hot, lightly greased griddle or heavy skillet, spreading batter to a 4-inch circle. (For dollar-size pancakes, use about 1 tablespoon batter and spread slightly.) Cook over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes on each side or until pancakes are golden brown, turning to second side when pancakes have bubbly surfaces and edges are slightly dry. Serve warm with maple syrup. Makes 18 standard-size pancakes or 48 dollar-size pancakes.
Note: For 2 cups of sour milk, place 2 tablespoons lemon juice or vinegar in a glass measuring cup. Add enough milk to make 2 cups total liquid; stir. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes before using.

OK, it may be time for pancakes soon....



clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 10:49 am

RE: Which Makes Best Pancakes - Electric Griddle or Griddle on St (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: kaelkriver on 10.26.2009 at 02:02 pm in Cooking Forum

OK, I'll ask, because I've never made really good pancakes. What's the secret recipe?



clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 10:48 am

RE: Rangetop with or without griddle? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: ctycdm on 05.10.2014 at 08:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Maybe a little late since you seem to have already made a decision, but I'll add that I love my built in griddle!
I use it daily, and sometimes two or more times...
I actually use my skillets and burners less because everything seems better on the griddle :) super easy to clean once seasoned, just scrape with a flat spatula and wipe with a paper towel...
here's a short video on first time seasoning, and they just get better with age...

Here is a link that might be useful: seasoning griddle first time


clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 10:42 am

RE: Does This Moroccon Backsplash Work?? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: oldbat2be on 03.20.2014 at 08:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think it would be fabulous, but to be sure.... Make up a sample board. Sheet of plywood which can fit under your countertops with your sample tiles 'glued' on with double sided sticky tape. Mix up some grout and apply. You should really wait a few days for the grout to dry fully but..... Then place sample board vertically in position and take pictures. I will gladly photoshop these for you so you can gauge the effect.


clipped on: 07.29.2014 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2014 at 10:27 pm

RE: How to switch granite sealers? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: srosen on 07.14.2013 at 12:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello Jaxo,
I think you mean paradiso which is a fine grained rather porous stone.
It is a mercantile granite which means it isn't actually a granite-geologically it is a migmatite part of the gneiss group. Nothing to be concerned about -just saying.
Sounds like you have had this stone for a while.
Also sounds like you have existing stains-which you may be able to remove. The older they are the harder that will be. Do some research on poulticing or hire a stone refinisher
Anyway-there is no short answer to your question sorry.
First-most brand name sealers are of good quality. Most likely there isn't a problem with the sealer.
The problem is in the application of the product.
Most sealers contain under 10% resin(the material that fills the pores of the stone) the rest is the carrier which is either water based or solvent. Bulletproof has a higher concentration of resins than standard sealers. Just like miracles porous plus which is similar to bulletproof.
These type of sealers will cost more but require less coats then the cheaper products.
The first thing you need to know is that sealers are impregnating-they live below the surface. When sealers companies state that only their products should be used I think they mean initially. It has to do more likely with mixing different types of carrier solvents. Once the resin is cured within the stone I think at this point you can use another product.
So you needn't worry about removing(almost impossible anyway) any remnants of the old sealer which sounds like there isn't much there anyway.
Once you have the countertop clean and free of stains you are ready to begin.
Do a simple water test-a palm sized puddle of water left on the surface for 5-10 minutes then wiped away.
If a darker mark remains you know the surface is porous and will take the sealer.
You can use whatever sealer you like.
Protect any areas you think may get dripped or spilled on.
Pick a starting point and pour some sealer on the surface.
Using paper towel spread it out over a manageable section maybe 3-4 feet wide. Let the product load (absorb) into the stone for 5-10 minutes or so(do not let it dry on the surface)
Then you must remove entirely all of the sealer from the surface of that area.(most important task of sealing)
Leftover sealer residue is an epic adventure to remove.
Then overlap the previous area and repeat the process for the rest of the counter(do it in sections always overlapping)
Remember to completely remove all sealer from the surface.
I would do this twice (2 coats) which I consider an application.
Then wait 24 hours and do the water test.
You should have much less absorption at this point.
You may even have none. If you don't have any absorption your done. If you do then you can do another application(2 coats) using the same process as the first application.
Then wait 24 hours and test again.
I hope this clarifies sealing for you and you now have a better idea of how to correctly accomplish it.
You could always hire a professional stone refinisher to do this all for you.


clipped on: 07.10.2014 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 07.10.2014 at 09:21 am

RE: Streaking on arabesque countertop (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: srosen on 01.04.2014 at 09:32 am in Kitchens Forum

The streaks are either sealer residue or light etching.
Most likely sealer residue-Acetone works sometimes but using more sealer to activate old sealer only works when the old hasn't yet cured.
They are not part of the stone. What you see is correct something wiped on.
Do not let anyone tell you they belong there -they don't.
The top may need to be refinished by lightly honing and re-polishing. In some cases just a light repolish will remove the streaks.
If you get no joy from your fabricator -call a stone refinisher and he or she will fix this for you.
My guess it is improper sealing by someone in a big hurry.


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 09:45 pm

RE: Granite not totally sealed??? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: srosen on 05.30.2013 at 09:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Funny thing about sealing stone-There are many schools of thought on the chemicals, processes and results.
Been that way for a long time and will never change.
There is always a new product on the market that is the best to use on any stone.This magical sealer will protect your precious stone for years to come from everything.
It is marketed to be sold to every stone owner the world over whether they need it or not. They will never ask you or place on the label to test porosity prior to applying.
While there are a fair amount of stones that require sealing
there are probably more that dont.
Being out on Jobs everyday we just dont come across that many stains on granite or marble surfaces.
We do come across them and remove most when we do.
Many are just on the surface. Others very deep and in the stone for a long time dont always cooperate with us.
Some white stones(as well as other colors) have very porous composition and can contain iron minerals. These two characteristics dont get along well and sometimes they can oxidize(rust) from within. I dont see it happen often but when it does it is a mess. This is not prevented from sealing.I beleive that the list of performances for sealer is as follows. To temporarily inhibit the intrusion of a staining agent. End of list-they do nothing else.
Leave a staining agent on long enough and it will get though. Most of our sealing jobs are on stones that have had issues or unhappy owners. So we do stick to the way we seal stones of that nature. Our results speak for themselves. I dont like to speak in terms of coats but rather applications. Two on a fairly porous stone will have it well sealed.The first application can consist of 2-4 coats of product applied one at a time left on to load into the stone and remove. Let the first application cure for a minimum of 24 hours and repeat. Water test before ,after the first application and after the second.(if your stone isnt porous dont waste your time with this process).
Get a unsealed sample from your fabricator and do the
test at home.See what you get for results.
We arent trying to water proof the surface as it isnt under water. The logic is we can load enough sealer resin into the stone to make it water resistant. We test with water for obvious reasons.(like you would not be happy if you tested with olive oil and it stained) Once you feel the samples are resistant to the intrusion of water -try some mineral oil.
See what happens.I will post the old article next.

This post was edited by srosen on Thu, May 30, 13 at 22:02


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 09:28 pm

RE: Reveals and Finished Kitchens Blog (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: feisty68 on 06.19.2014 at 12:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Aw EAM44, I feel your pain. My apartment has been a MESS for 3.5 months and it's starting to drag on me. I'm a homeschooling mom and I work part time at home, so I have to do stuff at home other than just live. We had to move everything out to do the floors and now it feels like Tetris - constantly moving around boxes. I've been decluttering but I need to do more - I have to be more ruthless than most because we don't have a garage or attic or basement, and the four of us are living busy lives.

Regarding the weight thing, I wrote this in a different thread:

"This might sound insane, but I have a suggestion that saves cooking hassle, dishwashing hassle, money, and helps with weight loss! Intermittent fasting. It's the only way I manage to stay size 6 in a middle-aged body that wants to pack on fat. I only eat dinner and a snack and I've gottten used to it. I feed the kids breakfast and lunch but keep it simple. I've been my current weight for 4 years using this method. Before that I was size 12-14 for well over a decade.

Especially during a kitchen reno it is very nice to not have the entire day revolve around food. "

See below and hope that helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: The Beginner’s Guide to Intermittent Fasting


clipped on: 06.20.2014 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2014 at 11:36 pm

RE: Gaggenau steam oven in island? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: applnut on 06.15.2014 at 12:30 pm in Appliances Forum

Count me as someone who has a combi-steam + double (electric) wall ovens, and am glad I do. Full disclosure: We also have a gas oven in our range and an Advantium, which I won't argue isn't excessive.

Yes, there are times, when I'm cooking for a crowd, that I've utilized all five at once but, more usually, I'm able to pick and chose which oven performs best for a particular function. Doing that, the reality is that the double ovens are used most often for "regular" sort of oven stuff (most traditional baking, roasting, etc.), while the steam oven is used for anything steam-related (obviously), plus bread baking and things I've found benefit from some level moisture. Roasted veggies, for example, I do on 30% steam in the combi, and find they come out so much better (moist, but still caramelized) than via traditional oven. I've also found that things like custard desserts and cheesecakes benefit from some moisture and cooking them in the combi ensure great texture. Not to mention that the hotel pan inserts make the still-needed water baths super easy. I also use the combi almost daily to quickly defrost meats without any negative side effects (unlike the microwave) and for reheating meats, pasta or casserole when we do leftovers for dinner, using the refresh cycle. (Tastes almost as good as day one.) There's also a steamed hamburger/cheeseburger recipe I've found that's so juicy and wonderful it almost makes the combi worthwhile for it alone. (Trust me: sounds weird, tastes wonderful.)

There are also things that I've learned, at least for me, the combi isn't so great at ... Tried lots of roasted chicken recipes and, while the results were alright, the regular oven is way better (crisper skin, etc.) and soooo much less messy. In general, with the exceptions of fish and the hamburger recipe mentioned above, I've found that, for the most part, meats are better left to non-steam methods. And, yes, the combi can do a 0% steam function, but I admit, with all the other options, we rarely use it; other than bread baking with steam injection.

Honestly, the somewhat awkward combi interior (long and narrow, plus the proprietary racking), and lack of self clean (generalization: everything done with some steam makes little mess, everything with no steam, cooked uncovered, makes a big one), means we almost never use it as "just another oven," though of course I know my situation of having so many other options isn't typical, so other's mileage there will definitely vary. Still, even best case, you're gonna have to be very savvy about planning what can fit, and what can't.

Anyway, the double ovens + the combi make up my "most used" ovens, and I'd hate to be without any of them. While, conversely, the Advantium is used mostly as a microwave (never use the speed oven features), and not even very often at that, and the range oven only when I need to do something very large (e.g. two turkeys side by side), or when I really need to have three standard ovens at once. So, mostly holidays or other times I'm tasked with making dinner for 30. While it's great to have for those rare occasions I need it, if I had to give it up, I'd manage just fine.

I also don't use the Advantium to any, ahem, advantage, and if/when I need to replace, will likely do so with a standard sensor microwave and not miss anything. Other than melting chocolate and softening butter, I rarely use a microwave myself, but my other family members use it often enough for quick reheats.

So, I wouldn't argue that I'm not that an outlier, but it's also not a "nobody" scenario. If you've got the room and you want, and can afford, double ovens + combi, I can attest that it's a pretty awesome set-up.

For instance, yesterday I made carnitas for a backyard BBQ with friends. I had a large pork shoulder in one oven on low while using the other to bake a pie, and the combi-steam both to steam-roast peppers and onions and steam the tortillas. That's not an atypical scenario, at least in my house, where all three were in use at the same time.

As for island placement, my understanding is that Gaggenau Combi Steam ovens can NOT be installed below counter level, due to drain and other requirements, so that's not really an option.

Personally, we've got a double oven stack and then, next to that, a second stack of steam oven over Advantium over warming drawer. I like the stacks fine, but if we had to do it again, and had a place to do it in (we didn't), I would have separated the stacks and had the double ovens on one end of the kitchen wall and the other stack on the opposite side to balance, but that's more an aesthetic than a functional concern, as what we have works perfectly well. Maybe even better in that I can see all of my ovens at a glance, or check on cooking items all at once, without having to walk from one of the kitchen to the other to do so.


clipped on: 06.16.2014 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 06.16.2014 at 12:19 am

video how to fold a fitted sheet

posted by: holly-kay on 05.31.2014 at 09:13 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have to admit that folding a fitted sheet has always given me fits. I saw this on fb and wanted to share.

Here is a link that might be useful: folding a fitted sheet


clipped on: 05.31.2014 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 05.31.2014 at 10:04 am

Have you adjusted the beater height on your KitchenAid mixer yet?

posted by: plllog on 05.28.2014 at 05:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

A friend was talking about her beater not hitting right, and I needed to adjust mine too, but I didn't know how to describe it to her, and I was feeling too lazy to look for the book. Instead, I found this great video, which shows you, with a dime, how to be sure your adjustment is accurate. The video talks about doing it for if the beater is too low. Mine was a little high--the same thing applies, using the same dime test, but turning the screw the opposite direction.

It was a lot easier than the last time I adjusted it. The dime test is awesome and the video makes it very clear what you should look for.

This video is for tilt head mixers. I would guess that the dime test works with lift mixers, but I don't know for sure.

Disclaimer: I have no connection to this company or YouTube. Just sharing info. :)


clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 11:13 pm

RE: Can a layman hone marble if it is polished? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.27.2010 at 08:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

The heck with having someone do it. This is not rocket science. If it were granite, that'd be one thing. It's a much harder material, and tougher to do a good job. But with marble, all you need is a good orbital sander, and a STACK of 600 wet or dry sand paper. It should take you give or take, about 15 minutes to 1/2 hour per 12x12 tile. to hone. If the sand paper starts filling up, take a dry scrub brush, hit it a bit, and go back to sanding. Once it stops dong anything for you, obviously it's time to change the sand paper. You can do this!!

Tell you what-- try it with one tile, and see if you're up to it. If not, all you've lost is one tile. My bet is you are. And then you've saved yourself a BUNDLE of money.


clipped on: 05.26.2014 at 05:26 am    last updated on: 05.26.2014 at 05:26 am

RE: Let's Share: Nightmare Guest Room Stories (Follow-Up #75)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 05.12.2014 at 04:55 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

happyladi, great idea about sleeping in your own guest room.

Perhaps we should put together a list of nice to have and need to have for a decent guest room. DH and I have stayed in enough hotels over the years that we have a pretty good idea at least of the things we look for. Because our guest room is in the lower level, it's the largest bedroom in the house and it has an en suite bath.

Here's what we offer
2 twins (to accommodate marrieds and unmarrieds...when uncle and his stepson stayed they were glad for the twin beds!)
Each has a bench at the foot for luggage or sitting
Each has a glass-topped end table with own lamp, a couple of small decorative bowls to hold watches, rings and things
Wi Fi
Clock Radio
Cable TV w/ remote
Closet with hangers and 2 large white terry robes
Desk with chair, lamp, pencils, pad of paper
Luggage rack
Linen closet has spare blankets, extra set of towels, empty shelves for storage
Make-up vanity with mirror, tissue, q tips, cotton balls, lotion
Sleeping pillow and sham pillow for each bed
Two sitting chairs: one rocker, one recliner w/reading lamp
Magazine rack with "coffee table" books
Pair of slippers and slipper socks

Large mirror
Separate air jet tub
Bubble bath for tub
2 sets of clean towels
liquid hand soap
bar soap
liquid body soap
clean drinking glasses
hand towel
basket with toiletries: toothbrushes, toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoo, conditioner, clean scrubby, razor
spare toilet paper
hair dryer
handheld mirror
night light
waste basket
toilet bowl brush

And there is a small fridge in the store room just outside the guest room...we turned it on for our "overnight" guest who spent 11 days here so he could fill it with his goodies he bought.

As I'm having guests again this weekend, I'd be happy for any suggestions of anything I missed.

Perhaps we need a list of what it shouldn't have:
too many tchotchkes
wind chimes
snake skins
pet access and/or accessories like litter boxes

And a list of things you wouldn't think you'd have to mention:
clean sheets
clean towels, no holes
running water
a place to actually sleep


clipped on: 05.13.2014 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 05.13.2014 at 01:26 am

RE: Epoxy grout vs. grout shield (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: StoneTech on 05.07.2014 at 08:37 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'll jump in here for a comment. Epoxy is good, but very labor-intensive...and costly. Recently, I've been converted to the "Church of Fusion Pro." It's available at HD and is fantastic. About $54 per tub, but is microbial, never needs sealing, is pre-mixed, is a TRUE color as per the charts and resists stains beautifully. I'm doing five bathrooms in a three million dollar home and it's ALL I will use. Fills joints from a sixteenth to three eights. Check it out.


clipped on: 05.09.2014 at 12:10 am    last updated on: 05.09.2014 at 12:10 am

RE: The Perfect Kitchen design (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: feisty68 on 05.01.2014 at 09:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Someone posted a really great checklist:

It has sections discussing and illustrating the ergonomics of layouts and storage options, how modern hardware makes a difference, and how to zone a kitchen. Great primer on all that.


Link for kitchen checklist
clipped on: 05.04.2014 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2014 at 01:39 pm

RE: Dishwasher KA vs Bosh (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: flwrs_n_co on 04.25.2014 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Love my Bosch. Cleaning the filter isn't hard, just reach in on the bottom of the dw and unscrew it, rinse, and replace. I do it maybe once a month, but it generally doesn't have anything in it. Glasses and cups that have an indentation on the bottom will have some water on them, but I just take the towel and wipe them off. Takes 2 seconds--no big deal. And the hard water buildup they had from my previous dw is now gone! One note, I run the tap until I have hot water before I turn it on; that way, I know it's using hot water and I don't always have to run the sanitize option.


Filter cleaning
clipped on: 04.26.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2014 at 03:08 pm

poultice for grease stain on granite

posted by: bbstx on 04.22.2014 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Ornamental White granite. Over the weekend, while we were all in the kitchen cooking, several sticks of butter got left out on the countertop. I now have 3 stripes of grease on the countertop. I put cornstarch on it as soon as I saw the spots, but it hasn't drawn the grease out yet.

Does anyone have a formula for a poultice to draw out the greasy marks?


clipped on: 04.25.2014 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2014 at 10:16 pm

RE: Help Making Final Soapstone Decision! (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: Quadesl on 04.07.2014 at 05:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a link the describes how to post pictures. Hope it helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: Posting pictures


clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 09:55 pm

RE: pics of my prelim cabinet layout- help requested for proporti (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: westsider40 on 09.06.2013 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi to both of you. I am a gardenwebber with a finished kitchen in the Chicago suburbs. I used, and so did loves2cook4six, a superb cabinet company called Ayr custom cabinet. They are in Napannee Indiana but easily travel to your parts of Michigan. They have shipped cabs to Ireland. Ken Miller is the brilliant kitchen designer and nothing is too difficult for him. Truly defines the word, 'custom'.

He will measure, suggest, give you ideas. Give him a call.

I am just a very satisfied customer, no relation or ties. Re price, loves2cook4six did check and felt that Ayr was in line with the big box stores. Loves' kitchen is probably on the finished kitchen blog. Google Ayr+gardenweb+kitchens and you should find several posts about this fabulous cabinet maker. My kitchen was finished 2.5 years ago and I am loving the high quality cabs and the incredibly functional layout, including pot drawers, toekick drawers, over the oven vertical shelving for cookie sheets, etc., all drawer lower cabinets with front to back vertical dividers so that contents are not nested but easily retrievable. Imagine pots filed so that you swoop down and pick one out!.

Oh yes, google my name+(use the + sign)+ Ayr. Just trying to help.


clipped on: 04.03.2014 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2014 at 06:20 pm

RE: Education on marble (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: srosen on 03.31.2014 at 08:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just to clarify this-I know dry treat and most of their products pretty well.
Dry treat stain proof is an impregnating solvent based sealer that has a high content of resin in its formulation.
Resin being the material that solidifies beneath the surface of your porous stone.
That and the fact that the formulation makes it a good penetrating product makes it a quality sealer.
Also it is easy to work with, breathable and when applied correctly works as good as a sealer can.
The performance of any impregnating sealer is defined as this.
"To temporarily inhibit the intrusion of staining agents from the surface of the stone"
End of list of performances.
Impregnating sealers do not have any effect to the surface of the stone.
They wont make them shiny or not as they live below the surface.
Trying to seal a dense stone that the sealer cant penetrate or barely penetrates may cause streaking issues and or etching issues. Sealer residue not properly removed from a dense stones surface can etch.
The process that polishes marbles and other calcareous stones uses potassium oxalate which has a chemical reaction with the calcium forming a layer on the surface of calcium oxalate. This chemical reaction makes the stone somewhat harder and less porous than in its honed state.
That's the reason sealers aren't as effective on polished stones-they simply don't penetrate.
Honed stones are more porous and take sealers better.
However there are exceptions such as honed black absolute, uba tuba and others that are dense even when honed.
I see granites and marble in folks homes everyday. For the amount of homes I see staining is far less than what you would think.
I do see some rust stains however .
But it isn't because it was or wasn't sealed . It is mainly on white marbles and the rusting is internal.
White marbles have high contents of ferrous minerals, put them in a wet area and they have the potential to rust.
I think we just put to much credence into sealing stone.
Yes I believe that porous stones need to be sealed with quality products and maintained with ph neutral products.
Quality sealers should last between 5 years and longer.
This thing about sealing every six months or a year is insane. Dry treat offers a 15 year warranty on stain proof but read the fine print before you sign on.
Vitremela is a topical product which I also know well.
Dry treat is working on it to get it ready for the market.
Its applied using infrared light.
Clearstone can be honed or polished. It is warranteed against staining and etching and it wont.
It will scratch which isnt covered.
I have applied lots of clearstone.
It isn't for everyone-it runs the full gamut of pros and cons.
It is pricey as well. Can take 2-3 days in an average kitchen to apply.
. I think it is important that if your in the market for stone you learn about its nature and character.
Find a great bone fide fabricator who knows stone-you wont be sorry.(very important)
Find out the best way to maintain it.
Before purchasing take some home and treat it like the busiest area in your kitchen. Then place it by a window, see if there are issues that bother you.
Try to purchase a stone that wont drive you crazy and you will be fine.


clipped on: 03.31.2014 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2014 at 10:10 pm

RE: Disparity of pricing in Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jakuvall on 11.27.2012 at 11:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

...and master of none":) wasn't sure I wanted to get into this - it's long, but here you go.

The frame is the structure on a framed cabinet. Frames are glued. Modern glues are incredibly strong but bond best when the wood is glued long grain to long grain. An end grain to long grain joint will fail without any other means of connection.

A pocket hole joint is end grain to long grain, so a metal screw is added to hold the joint together longer, increase the strength. Without the screw the joint will fail. (when installing pocket hole cabinets it is a good idea not to put too much pressure in the middle of a wide top rail or you may hear a little crack. Once the counters are on the load is distribuetd so not as big an issue)

The other factore is that wood expands and contracts seasonally. Metal does not. As the wood expands it pushes against the metal of the screw and compresses. Eventually it compresses and does not expand back again. This is called "compression set". That's what causes the heads to fall off of hammers (see Bruce Hoadley- Understanding Wood)
Until the invention of pocket hole screws some form of joint was always used to allow for a long grain to long grain glue joint. Originally this was a mortise and tenon- the strongest most durable joint for this application.

A loose tenon, or dowels are a variations on the tenon joint. Both are easier to use in production. Loose tenon having more surface for the glue joint and IF properly fit (big if,I once handled a brand that used loose tenons that I will not sell) are better than dowels. Dowels are easier to use in production and don't have the same fit problems.

Which construction one picks is a matter of budget and how long you want things to last. Pocket holes frames are just fine, there are lots of pocket hole cabinets out there, likely more than 70% of the market (I carry one in my store and put them in my fathers kitchen-in wood) Overall though, mfg using better frame construction typically use better methods for other aspects of construction, particularly since it is something that you don't see and that the average consumer must be shown. Hoever price does not always guarantee better construction, there are some pricey pocket hole cabinets.
So when you ask about the disparity in cabinet pricing, there is a little more to it than dovetail drawers with soft close and some sort of..don't get me starte- plywood sides- those are the easiest things for a mfg to control and IMO are not indicative of quality, merely the minimum requirements.

As to your paint issue- I'm surprised but don't doubt you. I used to work for a Wood-Mode/Brookhaven dealer for 8 years, very nice cabinet, good company (they did replace your doors). During my tenure there we likely sold 1000 kitchens in those brands, statistically 40% would have been painted. Never had an issue similar to yours.

I wonder if 22 years ago the paint was different, polyester perhaps. It is one of the materials that has a tendancy to craze, especially as formulated back then (spent a while dealing with lots of kinds of materials, where the jakuvall comes from)
The most common reason I've ever seen crazing is the inadvertant inroduction of a solvent. It can be surprising what cleaning products have solvents. But hard to say.
Cracking- if it was at the joints that is to be expected in a painted finish- in any brand with any joint. It will be less with better joints, but wood moves more than paint. Other cracking- have not idea.
BTW Wood-Mode cabinets are doweled- one reason they lasted 22 years.


Explanation of cabinet construction
clipped on: 03.31.2014 at 12:50 am    last updated on: 03.31.2014 at 12:50 am steel !!

posted by: trailrunner on 03.13.2014 at 08:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow...that is about all I can say...well KNOW better. I have had it since last year and it sits and waits patiently for me to use it...sigh. Today was the day. I baked sourdough bread this AM ...there is a thread over on cooking forum if you want to travel over and look :) I stirred up the pizza dough late this afternoon on a whim, used the recipe from The Way the Cookie Crumbles Blog. I didn't put in the wine but followed all the other inst. Amazing..perfect crust. I preheated the steel 6" from the top of the oven. 550. for 40 min. I divided the dough in to 3 /12oz pieces and used two and put one in fridge to try tomorrow and see how it does. I had also bought some pizza screens last year and never used you see a trend ???? I stretched the dough...which is amazingly easy to do. I placed it on the screen and topped lightly with sauce and pepperoni and only 6 oz fresh mozz and 4 oz parmesan.

All of this is new territory for me. I usually prebake the crust a few minutes to set it up in order to try and avoid soggy...and I usually over load the fillings. Restraint was my friend tonight . Baked in the oven for 5 min....slid the screen out from under the pizza with my peel and finished it for 3 min. Perfection...I tell you perfection. Number 2 was even more wonderful! And the great thing is that my 7 yr old Miele ovens hold the temp . so the oven was ready for #2 by the time is was topped and ready to put it in. Perfection :) indeed. All of this and I forgot to turn on the broiler to high to superheat the stone...tomorrow :)

Here are some pics. I am so ready to try pizza once a week now and see where this new interest leads me. Trips to the gym will now increase as will the bike miles...LOL !

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number 2 in foreground :

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number 1 :

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clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 11:10 am

RE: new granite water stain (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 11.09.2013 at 09:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Water left overnight that dries could leave some mineral residue that should wipe up easily. You would notice just a light outline of where the water dried. A non ammonia glass cleaner should work. Cleaners with a vinegar dilution work well also on mineral deposits. Make sure your surface is acid resistant first.
If the marks or stains you are getting are a whitish spot or hazy type of ghost like mark then that would indicate possibly a sealer has been applied incorrectly.
I don't think the sealer got etched but the water sitting on the sealer may have gotten below the sealer and caused the mark. If a water based sealer was used the white mark once the water evaporates may dry and be gone. With solvent based sealers the mark may stay.
If this is your case call your installer and they will be able to remove the product and with it the marks.
Of course test your stone and do a little research before speaking to them.
If a dense stone has been sealed by an inexperienced worker its possible that some sealer residue is left on the surface of the stone. I would bet the side where you are having no problems may have been sealed by another worker correctly or not sealed.

Verde Candias from brazil is quite dense-In the stone business a true stain(caused by a staining agent) will always be darker than the stone itself.
A lighter stain will indicate an etch mark. Generally there are no exceptions to this rule.
However Verde candias is acid resistant and wont etch from normal household acids. Sealers are impregnating(they live below the surface of the stone) but when left on the surface they will etch.
Do the water test to check porosity by puddling up a palm sized puddle of water and leaving there for 10 or 15 minutes.
Then wipe away -if a dark mark remains the surface is absorbent. The mark will disappear and you will know whether your surface is absorbent or not.
Hope this helps


clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 12:48 pm

RE: Found my WOW factor! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: oldbat2be on 03.06.2014 at 10:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Do tell about the Showhouse, sounds v. exciting.

WOW factor - CHECK!!

I'm making your 'Ultimate Coconut Cake Cocktails' again this weekend for a get together I'm hosting for my bootcamp buddies. Always think of you and smile with this recipe. Linking for the curious :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Ultimate Coconut Cake Cocktail


clipped on: 03.06.2014 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2014 at 10:18 pm

Dirt Bombs...

posted by: solsthumper on 03.06.2007 at 08:41 pm in Cooking Forum

Stacy and Annie, kids of all ages love these, it's a cross between a cinnamom sugar doughnut and a muffin. Enjoy.

Dirt Bombs
Yields: 12 muffins*

3 cups AP flour, minus 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon baking powder
� teaspoon salt
� teaspoon ground nutmeg
� teaspoon ground cardamon
� cup (1 � sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk **

Topping ***

� cups unsalted butter, melted
� cup granulated sugar
1 � teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400� F. Place the rack in the center position. Generously grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cardamon into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Scrape the bowl down half way through. Mix in the eggs. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk in two additions, mixing gently by hand to incorporate all the flour. The batter will be on the stiff side, but airy. Don�t over mix or beat the batter as this will make the muffins tough. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, without smoothing the tops. Bake for about 25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. As soon as the muffins are cool enough to handle, turn them out onto a wire rack.

Add the melted butter to a bowl. In another bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon.
Dip the muffins (top, sides and bottom) in the butter, using a pastry brush -if necessary- to cover areas not buttered by dipping. Immediately roll the muffins in the cinnamon sugar mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*I've made this twice, and both times, this recipe has yielded 16 muffins instead of 12.
**I substituted whole buttermilk for whole milk because I always have it on hand and prefer it for baking.
*** The amounts listed for the sugar and cinnamon are not quite enough to coat all the muffins, so I recommend you double it.



clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 10:34 pm

RE: Bosch DW gives off funny smell after several days of non-use. (Follow-Up #60)

posted by: noelandjenny on 08.14.2010 at 02:12 pm in Appliances Forum

We started using our new Bosch dishwasher in July and had the same issue. I was dismayed at the smell esp since I've had several friends who highly recommended this product and never had this issue. AND it was brand new.

I called Bosch (their customer call center's the worst), aside from being dismissive/rude, they were pretty useless. Then I called Yale, the appliance store where we bought our dishwasher (still had a warranty). Very knowledgeable service person came - he's worked with dishwashers old and new. He said the smell can be a result of several minor factors. And he was right, after these adjustments, we now are odor free. Thought I'd share if this will help others who find this post:

1) Ensure the drain hose is properly installed (ours was ok per service person but this is a common cause)

2) Ensure your H20 is hot when you run the dishwasher. In our case, it takes a while for the water to heat up so he advised us to run the tap till the H20 gets hot. He said that the dishwasher will heat up the H20 but still better to run the tap since the Bosch does not use much water.

3) Do not use too much dishwashing liquid - he recommends just a 3rd of the capacity. The Bosch (SHX45Po5UC)'self computes' load. He said putting too much dishwashing liquid vs not enough hot water messes it up.

4) Do not rinse dishes. He says the high efficiency dishwashers works better with just the right amt of hot water, not too much dishwashing liquid and "dirt" to work with. Just scrape off big pieces of food that wont dissolve (i.e., big seeds, etc) - leave grease, oil, sauces, small bits of food on.

5) We dont run the dishwasher everyday (unlike our friends who have the same product). He recommends just leaving the door ajar (do not click it closed)so there's circulation. The high efficiency dishwasher seals tight so with all other factors exacerbates smell issues.

6) To remove the smell, he popped in an Affresh tablet. He thinks vinegar works just as well and run the tap to hot before running the dishwasher on its highest setting.

After doing all these small adjustments above, the Bosch now works as advertised. I think we learned the hard way that we cant assume that we can use this dishwasher the same way we used our Frigidaire dishwasher (in our previous home) or our Kitchenaid dishwasher (7 yr old model prior to our renovation)

Without this issue, it is a great high efficiency dishwasher which cleans extremely well. I have always pre-rinsed my dishes before (and was very doubtful of the service person's advice esp in tandem with the advice to reduce detergent use) but the Bosch has been a virtuoso with really oily or heavily soiled dishes.

Hope this helps others.


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 05:58 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 06:21 pm

RE: Is this staining my marble counter? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: cindallas on 02.25.2014 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used a product that was new to me called 'Stain Proof' original formula by Dry-Treat. We had to do a lot of research for something different (since the others had not worked for us) and came across this sealer. It has smaller molecules (or something) and seals the pores while still allowing any moisture to escape. (My DH is a testing engineer and he was impressed with all this - a tall order I assure you! We are not affiliated with this at all, just passing along lessons learned.)

This is not a low VOC product but once cured is food safe. Complete info and directions are in the link below. Basically, this is a solvent sealer that we wiped on with a cotton rag (had latex gloves on and you may need a mask or respirator or an open window as they suggest), let dry for up to 10 minutes and then repeat the process and the final in a quick wipe dry (with s second dry cloth). Initial cure is 24 hours but keeps penetrating and curing for an additional 3 weeks for the full deep cure. Best stain and water resistance after that.

They do have a new cream formula that IS a low VOC product and LEED compliant. I have not used this one personally but is supposed to have the same results, but a slower application method. This one has to stay on for an hour and initial cure time is 24 hrs with full deep cure in 3-5 weeks. Slower for what I used it for but you may prefer it. That is called Meta Cream and be sure to read all the directions. Click on the 'Products' and then 'Protection' for a drop down menu then click on it.

I used the original formula for our master bath for the onyx slabs and leathered limestone because it was faster. (I was personally sealing almost 1000 sq ft of tile and about 6 slabs of onyx (and seams) for the steam shower wall sections, bench and niches, the tub surround, wall sections and niches, both vanities and inserts in the limestone floor! And I did it myself because I was tired of problems with fabricators not doing what I asked, and I didn't want any problems with it. And the satisfaction and security of knowing it was done right. I had quite an assembly line going! I'd say I'm experienced with it!) There is a 'where to buy' section so you can look it up in your area or order it direct. We first had to special order it and now it's stocked locally. It's expensive as sealers go, but worth it for us. Original is $59 to $75 for a quart. It goes a long way. So just for this you will be buying more than you need.

It has an official warranty of 15 years if applied by a certified applicator, but we just did it ourselves. You may be interested in the official warranty in case look for authorized ( or is it certified?) applicators in your area.

Be sure your stain is out COMPLETELY before you seal with this and also that everything is totally dry inside. (It will slow down the curing process if damp.) Be sure to also seal not only on the flat part of the edge, but the very top edge like a 45 degree angle would get, that very top section if raw edge that looks stained now. And be sure to let dry completely and then seal the raw edges of the drilled holes for the plumbing.

If you have any questions at all just let me know. Hope this works for you like it did for us!

Here is a link that might be useful: Special sealer


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 03:23 pm

KAW....3 minutes on a side

posted by: trailrunner on 02.16.2014 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

DH made his famous buttermilk pancakes this AM. The blueberries are from a friend who picks them in WI and brings me 10# once a year...they are SO good. The buttermilk is Bulgarian from Walmart ( that is the only place I can find it ) . The griddle is a Vintage Dazey Short Order Chef , sometimes you can find them on Ebay. Ours is so old but it is the best and you can flip the grids for waffles ! The maple syrup is from Vermont and I buy a gallon when I am in NYC visiting cat_mom and friends !

 photo IMG_6846_zps4c59956b.jpg

 photo IMG_6847_zps3c1d930d.jpg

 photo IMG_6849_zpscc4604ba.jpg

DH flipping:

 photo IMG_6850_zps39a47de0.jpg

 photo IMG_6851_zps6016fe76.jpg

place the griddle under the 1500 cfm hood to capture all the HOGS....if you think you don't need a good hood ....well you do ! Makes all the difference. I want to enjoy my pancakes once...not all day as the fragrance becomes aged fumes.

 photo IMG_6848_zps6a15bf86.jpg

If you would like the recipe just ask...I would be glad to share...and if you are in central AL ...just give us a few minutes notice..and you can join us for breakfast. c


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 08:39 pm

RE: KAW....3 minutes on a side (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: trailrunner on 02.16.2014 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you Holly ! Thank you leela...I am very lucky !

Hey andrea...not stupid at all! I am linking below to a good article. It is a particular culture strain that is really more tart. We get Dairy Fresh brand. I wish it didn't have other thickeners in it but it is delicious ! It is best because it is REALLY thick. It you notice how the batter sits up on the griddle. It is quite thick but they come out very light. Here is the recipe. Don't thin the batter....really barely stir it and leave lumps....

Whisk together 2 c AP flour, 3 tsp fresh baking powder ( makes a huge difference..check your dates) 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp baking soda ( check date on this too...keep sealed well..believe it or not it does expire and lose potency) Beat 2 large eggs and 2 c. Bulgarian Buttermilk and a scant 1/4 c peanut or other no flavor oil together. Add to dry and barely mix...fold in blueberries very gently. Have griddle oiled and on hottest setting ...cook 3 min approx on a side till golden. Your griddle may vary. ENJOY!

Here is a link that might be useful: cultured buttermilk..bulgarian


clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 08:31 pm

RE: Razor blades on granite (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: srosen on 02.15.2014 at 10:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Just a little tip for removing hard water deposits on granite.
mix up 50 % vinegar and 50% water solution.
Granites are acid resistant but there are so many geologically different stones being sold under the granite label you need to verify yours is acid resistant.
You can dab on or spray on to the affected areas let sit for a minute or two.
Then using this type razor blade held at a 45 degree angle sliding easy across the affected area. The deposits will be easily removed and the surface will be shiny again.
On marble there are non acidic products on the market that will work as well.
MB-3 soap film remover(safe on marble) will also work great on mineral deposits around faucets. Dilute the product as per instructions using hot water. Spray on the affected area and scrub with medium stiff brush and let dwell keeping wet for 10 minutes or so. Then scrub again and rinse. If the deposits are stubborn you will need to repeat. You could use the razor(only if you are comfortable)(practice on a spare piece so you know how to hold and move it) but you must keep it straight and at a 45 degree angle.Be very gentle never forcing movement.
Always use a new blade as lades get dull very fast.
Keeping it wet with product will help the action.
Wear gloves and always test first.


clipped on: 02.15.2014 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 02.15.2014 at 11:40 am

RE: Best Granite Sealer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.04.2009 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh boy! That is almost like asking what is the best car! There are very many choices and very many really good products out there. You could probably ask 10 different stone guys and have about 15 different recommendations.

StoneTech makes good sealers, as does Miracle. Dry-Treat is one often mentioned and of course STT sealers, although the last two are geared more to supplying the fabricator than the homeowner.

Sealers that I would never recommend are the products from the TileLab range you find at Home Depot. They are very low in solid content and are ineffective at best.

Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

Here is a how-to for sealing:
You will need the following:
1. Home improvement strength alcohol
2. Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
4. Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
3. Sealer

What to do:
1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single , heavy handed application.

For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy

You could use a product like StoneTech's Revitalizer or the 3-in-1 from Granquartz as an occasional sealer maintenance cleaner


Resealing stone
clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 11:38 am    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 11:38 am

RE: Tile Cleaning, New Grout and Sealing--$$$ (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.25.2010 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

If they're talking about coming in ans steam cleaning the grout, it's worth the money. Otherwise, you'd do just as well to DIY it, using Oxyclean, a scrub brush, and a shopvac. Mix the Oxyclean at twice the concentration they recommend on the side of the tub. Use the scrub brush to agitate the grout joints. DO NOT mop up the dirty solution, because all you do is embed the dirt right back into the grout. Use the shop vac, set up for wet pick-up, and vacumn it up. Do the same thing all over again, but this time with clear water (and the brush). Again, vacumn it up. You'll see a big difference. The ONLY way you'll get them cleaner is by someone coming in with professional steam cleaning equipment.


clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 05:00 pm

RE: Which of these selaers would you choose for Danby marble? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: srosen on 02.06.2012 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I assume your dandy is honed. Polished stone will always be in most cases a lot less porous than when it is honed-any of those sealers will work well they are all good-somewhat different formulations but all quality.
Before you begin sealing you may want to test your stone first by placing a few palm sized puddles of water in two or so locations . Let them sit for 10 or 15 minutes and then wipe away the water with a paper towel. If it leaves a dark spotit will give you a good idea how absorbant or not it is. Dandy is porous but it is good to see for your self what your seling and the difference the sealer will make.
Just remember one fact that a sealer will only temporarily inhibit the intrusion of staining agents into the the stone. Temporary is the key word.If you do combine two compatible sealers you may get a better seal. But if your stone isnt all that porous the second sealer wont penetrate the first sealer so you have just spent a good buck on a sealer you dont need. The key to the whole sealing thing imo is that as a homeowner you can do a better job than most contractors because you arent hurrying off to the next job. You can do several applications (I dont call them coats)(because even if you do two coats back to back it is still one application)in this manner. Apply the fist application in managable areas (3-4 ft sections)keeping it wet for 15 minutes or so.
Then remove the excess(all of it)so that it is dry to the touch. Remember the sealer is impregnating. (It lives below the surface)If you dont remove all the excess you will have an epic adventure removing the residue from the surface. Ok -when your ready to move to the next area repeat the same procedure but make sure you overlap where you left off. Now you can finish the rest of your surfaces in this manner.
Then wait 24 hours and test it using the water test.If it is still absorbent repeat the entire process. The reason for waiting 24 hours to do the next application is that it takes the sealer a minimum of 24 hours to cure in most cases. Once it has cured the second application wont go below the first application resulting in a better seal.
Also if you use the proper cleaning regimen using ph neutral cleaners you will prolong the life of the sealer. Be aware that sealers will not prevent etching from acidic products.
Oh Yeah-just so you know if you ever do get a stain it can be removed using a poultice-but act quickly and use the right one. You can always email or call us if you have any issues.
Stu Rosen


clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 11:34 am

Favorite Penzeys Spice?

posted by: vicki_lv on 02.06.2010 at 12:18 pm in Cooking Forum

I didn't want to highjack GoldGirl's scrambled egg post. I noticed that lpinkmountain mentioned the Mural of Flavor from Penzeys. So, now I think I need to get some of that.

What is your favorite Penzeys spice and why?


clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 12:51 pm

RE: I need help choosing curtains for this room. (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 12.29.2013 at 04:10 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

First I thought I'd post this here for you.

Posted by kraftymom (My Page) on
Sat, Sep 25, 10 at 15:48

You can't post pics from the Gallery, you have to use a shared photo site like Photobucket. I use Photobucket and here are the instructions:

1. Register of course with Photobucket. (it's free)

2. Upload your photos to Photobucket from your personal files (very easy to do).

3. Click on the photo you want to share/post and a new window will open. To the left of your photo you will be given a choice on how you want to share it. Click on 'HTML Code' and the line will be briefly highlighted and tell you the link was copied.

4. Come back here to your post and 'right click' on your mouse to open the window that will give you the option to 'paste'. Click 'paste' and the link to your pic will show up as SCRIPT ONLY in your message box (no pic yet).

5. Click on 'Preview Message' below the message window. Another window will open and your picture should now be inserted. Post your message.

*To add more than one pic repeat steps 1-4. When done go to step 5.

Next it's pretty clear that you do have a clear preference for style and colors. I love the happy pleated pillow cover you posted above. That's a great starting point.
I'm not sure why you think you need solid WT's. Basically everyone here has expressed that you should add some pattern, this room is screaming for pattern.
I'll get you started by putting all those objects above onto a mood board. What I would do if I were you is open the mood board on your screen, then open another window and go to a site like Calico Corners, and split the screen so that you can see both. Then start searching print drapery fabrics, seeing what strikes your fancy. You can save everything to a Pin board on Pinterest, easiest IMO, or save to your computer and then compile a list and ask again for opinions.
I'll post your mood board in a separate post.


How to post pictures
clipped on: 12.29.2013 at 06:18 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2013 at 06:18 pm

RE: Shiloh cabinets installed (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Autumn.4 on 02.03.2013 at 07:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

chiricahua.lady - this is where the html code is (see blue circled spot):

 photo photobucketpicsnip_zps8d1468e5.jpg

Hover over where the html is and left click - it should briefly show copied . Then paste it into the message box on GW.

So that photo's code pasted here shows:
 photo farmhouse1.jpg

Good luck! I'd love to see your shiloh cabinets!


Posting photos
clipped on: 12.29.2013 at 12:13 am    last updated on: 12.29.2013 at 12:13 am

RE: Christmas Eve and Christmas Day Tables (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: deeinohio on 12.27.2013 at 09:59 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Thanks bpathhome. I'm sure your holdiay was difficult, too, with the absence of your FIL.

KSWL, thank you. The link below shows how to do the Christmas tree napkin. She mentions that it looks better with an overall pattern. Mine above has a red border, and I like that. I didn't have enough for everyone so I also used a solid red. I didn't like that as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Christmas tree napkin fold


Christmas Tree Napkin fold
clipped on: 12.27.2013 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 12.27.2013 at 10:56 am

RE: Holiday Break Lighting Vote Anyone? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 12.23.2013 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lisa, got home and saw your Pinterest page, plugged some more in and posted them to the Pinterest board titled Lisa's lighting. Feel free to have a look, and post the ones here that you want feedback on.
More ornate chandy

Tuscan chandy

The more ornate drum chandy

Do you know how to post using the img html so that you don't need to upload to photobucket?

Right click on the photo, choose "copy image location", then copy that. come to this board and type in
< img src= > the image location, followed by the end >

I've typed one here using spaces between the command sign and the img src command so that it would show here, just don't leave the spaces and you'll have your pics.
Saves that whole step of uploading to photobucket, which I have no patience for.

This post was edited by mlweaving_Marji on Mon, Dec 23, 13 at 18:21


How to post without photobucket
clipped on: 12.25.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 12.25.2013 at 01:20 am

KAW: salted caramels

posted by: annkathryn on 12.07.2013 at 09:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm enjoying all of the kitchen at work threads so thought I'd post one of my own.

I've been making caramels every holiday season for many many years. Chocolate and vanilla. Last year I finally caught up to the salted craze and now I'm making Fleur de Sel Caramels exclusively. This afternoon I cooked up 3 batches and wrapped 2 of them. I love my induction cooktop and hood - I can easily regulate the temperature, and the caramels generate a lot of steam.

Ingredients. The Fleur de Sel is French sea salt, very expensive, but only takes a little per batch.

From caramels

Trusty thermometer, cream and butter waiting for the sugar and syrup to rise to 320F.

From caramels

While I cook, I cut squares of wax paper for wrapping. The cellophane bags are for orders I sell. I use paper gift bags for friends.

From caramels

After the butter and cream is added, I cook to 245F.

From caramels

First batch poured into pan lined with Parchment paper.

From caramels

I let it cool just a little then sprinkle the salt over so that it sinks into the caramels.

From caramels

Second batch on the way.

From caramels

Next batch, divided into 2 bread pans.

From caramels

Cutting the first batch.

From caramels

Wrapping caramels. The metal bowl is for 'rejects', either odd-sized pieces or pieces that have crystallized sugar which happens sometimes.

From caramels

First batch.

From caramels

Small gift bags for friends. I'll be topping these bags off with more caramels as soon as I wrap the 3rd batch. Batches 4-6 tomorrow!

From caramels

I'll link the recipe below. Even though it says not to double the recipe, I always do.

Here is a link that might be useful: This is the recipe I use


clipped on: 12.09.2013 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 12.09.2013 at 09:35 am

RE: How to roast a 9# ribeye? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ovenbird on 12.25.2006 at 10:50 am in Cookware Forum

Thanks bluelytes! I also started a thread at the Cooking Forum where I got some good responses too. I used cabogirl's method and my roast turned out absolutely gorgeous and so succulent. However, I think next time I might do what you do and not use a rack. I did miss having alot of pan juices for gravy.

Here is a link that might be useful: cooking forum thread


clipped on: 11.19.2013 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2013 at 08:14 pm

RE: Posting photos from an iPad. I'm an idiot... (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: GWlolo on 08.09.2013 at 12:45 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I much prefer the photobucket app as it is easy to post multiple photos. Open photobucket app, go to the photo in the album, touch the link icon at top, all the link options popup, touch the html link option and it is automatically copied. In the gw rowser page just touch where you want the picture and it is automatically posted. You can repeat for as manynas you need. Uploading is also a snap.


clipped on: 11.17.2013 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2013 at 12:20 pm

RE: Which banquette bench do you like? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: badgergal on 06.29.2012 at 11:29 am in Kitchens Forum

2LittleFishies: my upholstered sitting area chairs are tub styled with no wood but my dining chairs are wood with upholster seat cushions. I sprayed my chairs in the house. I put a plastic tarp down on my wood floors first under the chairs. I did nothing to protect the wood on my dining chairs. I can't say how much of the product may have gotten on the wood but if any did there was no damage. The 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is in a non- aerosol bottle spray bottle that can be set to spray or stream. The bottle contains the usually warnings about fumes and ventilation but to me it really was not smelly and there is absolutely no chemical smell left on the treated fabric.

The spray makes the fabric water repellant. Water literally does bead up on it which it does not do on my new living room couch with a factory applied stain guard. I did test putting cooking oil on some scrap fabric that I treated with the 303 and it cleaned up with no stain. I dont recall what the content of my fabrics is. It says on the bottle that it is for all fabric but suggests testing for colorfastness. It also says it is recommended by and for Sunbrella Brand Fabric so I guess that's a pretty could endorsement.

I guess it's considered expensive at about $14 for a 16 ounce bottle. But I think it is worth it. I sprayed it liberally and did 8 dining chair cushions and the top, sides, front, back and both sides of the cushions for two tub chairs. I used about 24 ounces of the product.

Hope this info is of some help to you. I have been following all your kitchen posts and can't wait to see how the finished product looks. Love the choices you have made so far.


clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 12:40 pm

RE: Dog vomit stains grout...ideas? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: srosen on 11.09.2013 at 09:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Yes Try the HP poultice. We have removed many stains using this method. I want to add that poulticing method has been around for a long time. My mentor Maurizio Bertolli used it often in many situations, but it is tops for organic staining. I actually thought a group of witches who had marble floors passed it down to him!!
When you mix the poultice you want a wet peanut butter consistency. Also use gloves when handling HP 30 or 40% volume. You must have patience however.
I wanted to add that a great way to protect grout is color sealing. We use a product called color clad for our customers. It is amazing and will keep grout looking perfect for many years-it will never stain either.You can google it.
Good luck if you poultice


clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 01:17 pm

RE: Pre-treating marble using Comet w/ Bleach before installation (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 01.03.2012 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Always keep in mind that a stain that is darker than the stone is a true stain caused most likely by some type of staining agent. An etch mark will always be lighter than the stone and shouldnt be classified as a stain.
Etch marks depending on how severe they are always need to be removed using abrasives on a honed surface. On a polished surface if an etch mark is light enough it can be removed using a polishing compound specific to marble.
Would that process make it easier to remove stains or make the stone more resistant to staining? No I dont think so!
The stone makeup dictates how porous or not it will be.
When honed(marble)it should always be properly sealed with a high quality impregnating sealer. I wouldnt use the bleach and abrasive too often as you will drive yourself nuts resealing. Let the etch marks build up over a time period(or until they drive you crazy!)then try the do it yourself method or have it done professionally. I work on alot of danby in kitchens honed. I must report it holds up pretty well-yes it etches but I dont see many stains and so far they have been removed in most cases with a good poultice of hydrogen peroxide and talc or another absorbant medium.
I think it is practical for vermont quarries to use that process and give a solution to their customers so they can ubderstand the stone and be more in control of their countertops. Is the process perfect? no There will be cases when a stronger abrasive will be needed to remove certain etching or scratching. Even pros will use one type of abrasive on the majority of the countertop but will use a lower grit or more agressive technique to get out the stubborn etches or scratches. Anyway in regards to your question I think a homeowner could do this at home as well but it is kinda nice that you dont have to refinish your new countertop after it gets installed. If you do have an issue down the road you have a way to repair it on your own.
Stu Rosen


clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 12:24 pm

RE: Dog vomit stains grout...ideas? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 11.07.2013 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you have the grout I would use a dremel with a diamond bit cut out the stained area. The replace with the same grout.
If that isn't possible make a poultice of 30/40% volume hydrogen peroxide and place on top of the stain. Cover it with plastic overnight. Then take off the plastic and let the poultice dry out completely. It must be completely dry.
Then remove it with a putty knife. See if the stain is better or gone. If much lighter repeat.
If gone use a neutral cleaner and clean the area of any residue.


Tile floor grout with dog vomit & red/orange stain
clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 08:53 pm

RE: Natural Cherry Reveal - Photo Heavy (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: lucas_tx on 11.01.2013 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry missed the bookcase question. Yes it sits directly on the hearth. It was already there and we just left it as is during the reno. The other book case where we added the granite was there but we took it out during the reno, put the hardwood under it and then cut it down so it would still meet up properly with all the trim to right of it. The wall behind it was paneled as well and we removed a big fur down that hung down between the living room and nook so had to redo that wall. (It looked like a beam but wasn't was just decorative and I wanted to blend the two spaces together).

I don't have any pics but there was a pony wall between the nook and living room on the window side with the wood spindles going to the ceiling. We took that out and left just those very small walls, partly to define the nook but also for practical reasons. If you've never considered what's involved in making an open space where there was not one before, one of the issues is where to put electrical outlets and light switches. Since that nook is on an exterior wall, we did not want to have to move the outlets to that wall and the light switches would have had to move to other walls, meaning a lot of new wire would have to be run and so forth. So we elected to do those small walls on each end, and we like the look a lot.

On the dining room, yes there is the reno picture but at that point we've already pulled down the paneling. The LR paneling is really nice constructed on site stuff that DR.... ugh it was awful, cheap, plasticy looking stuff. Not sure why they did that, they did use a lot of wood in the house and for the most part it's all nice stuff.

On the food, the asparagus is at 450 for 10 mins.
On the tomatoes, I could look at the recipe but it's one of this things you can do your own thing. I kind of use recipes to get ideas and then wing it based on what I like and/or have on hand. One sheet of puff pastry. Spread with the filling which was like some olive oil, sundried tomatoes, garlic, good olives, that kind of thing. Food process but leave chunky. Roll to the middle from the sides. Refrigerate till ready (did it the night before). Slice and bake. Thicker puff pasty takes longer, that one was like 400 for 20 mins or something like that.

The biggest hit which I failed to photograph was rice crackers topped with wasabi mayo, a small slice of teriyaki marinated then grilled flat iron steak (recipe uses flank steak but I like flat irons for everything) topped with a dab of the wasabi mayo and some chopped up fresh chives.

And speaking of having on hand, one of those doors in the utility hall is a huge under stair walk in pantry, in case anyone is wondering why we didn't do any kind of pantry pull outs in the kitchen. We have canisters, spices, stuff like that in the uppers to the left of the MW but everything else lives in the pantry.


clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 11:17 pm

RE: Natural Cherry Reveal - Photo Heavy (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lucas_tx on 11.01.2013 at 07:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks bookworm. We love the kitchen, we fixed all the things that really bugged me when I cook and it's so much more functional and has so much more storage. We're not broke and we still like each other. All very important. Looking back at the thread I do see that I kind of focused on the details which lots of people ask about but didn't get many good shots showing a little more perspective, so I might try to add some of those. Harder to get though since since it's only about 10x10. You can only get just so far away. :-)

Do have a couple of gratuitous food shots from the "kitchen warming party"

Sundried tomato palmiers

 photo IMG_0471_zps3c924254.jpg

Phyllo prosciutto wrapped asparagus (forgot to take a shot after cooked but really good and really pretty)

 photo IMG_0473_zpsba5bed05.jpg

 photo IMG_0472_zpsc63461ae.jpg

Caprese skewers

 photo IMG_0474_zps211da431.jpg

Neighborhood came over enjoyed the food and oohh'd and ahh'd over the kitchen. In our 1980's neighborhood, this kitchen is an overachiever vs. on this forum where it's dwarfed by its bigger relatives.

This post was edited by lucas_tx on Fri, Nov 1, 13 at 19:23


clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 11:16 pm

Posting a Link

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 04:37 am in Kitchens Forum

There are two ways to post a link:

To insert a link using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

  1. Insert the link in the "Optional Link URL:" box

  2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked in the "Name of the Link:" box

  3. If this is a new Post, you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message. So, compose your message and "preview" it. You will now see the link boxes and can now enter your link information.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
    <a href= http://www.XXX/>Description</a>
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link

  3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you next "preview" your message

[Please, do not bump this thread!]


clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:33 am

Posting Pictures

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2011 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

This thread will describe how to post pictures from a photohosting site, from a PDF file, or from some other location on the web.

First, though, where are your pictures? If they are on your computer only, you will need to upload them to somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket, but there are other photo-hosting sites available. For example: Picasa, Filckr, Webshots, Snapfish.

  1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

  2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera, but get your pictures on a disk when they're developed & download them to your computer)

  3. Resize your pictures so they're not too big, generally no more than 400x300 (or 300x400)

    Resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar

    [You can also often resize pictures at your photohosting site, but it's faster to do it on your computer]

  4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

  5. Find the label that contains the HTML Code link to the picture and copy it

  6. Paste it into the thread's "Message" box (< Ctrl >< V>)

  7. Click the "Preview" button.

  8. You will now see the picture.


clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:31 am

Tile Information... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:37 am in Kitchens Forum

...From our very own Bill Vincent...

See the Tile FAQs

How to clean ceramic tile floors

Hot water should be all you need for most of the time. The times you want a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.

Vinegar-- it'll do a good job, but the way it cleans is that it eats away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time. The oxyclean will do just as good a job, but without hurting the grout.


clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:25 am

Stone Information (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Thread: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

Getting granite or other natural stone? Read the linked thread:

Marble/Granite Stain Removal Threads

  • Marble poultice:
  • Oil stain in granite:
  • Coffee Stain on Granite:
  • Update on Removal of Coffee Stain on Granite:
  • First stain on white marble:

  • Thread: Is there a DIY fix for scratched quartz countertop?:

    Thread: Best website I've found yet to view granite

    Posted by remodelfla on Fri, Mar 20, 09 at 22:58

    While doing a search I came across website. They have some amazing links including galleries with real life kitchens with a huge variety of stones installed. I didn't even get to the bathroom side yet. The pictures are beautiful. They also seem to have 3D and 2D interactive capacities which I haven't yet played with either. Will have to wait for a rainy Sunday when I want something to do.

    Anyway... I've haven't seen one this good yet and thought others might be able to utilize it. ENJOY!


    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:24 am

    Useful Information (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:36 am in Kitchens Forum

    Useful Information

    National Kitchen & Bath Association's (NKBA) Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards:
    Note: As of June 2010 or so, the NKBA began to deny access to their guidelines unless you join the NKBA (for a fee) or order a copy of the guidelines (again, for a fee). I still have the link here in case they decide to make this information available to non-members again.

    BH&G Kitchen Design Guidelines (it appears to have some updates to the NKBA guidelines that are not in the link above):

    Other useful Forums for Kitchen Remodels:

    Plumbing Forum:

    Flooring Forum:

    Lighting Forum:

    Electrical Wiring Forum:

    Remodeling Forum:

    Home Decorating Forum:

    Paint Forum:

    Also doing a Laundry Room? See the Laundry Room Forum:

    Or a Bathroom or Powder Room? See the Bathrooms Forum:

    Other That Home Site Forums:


    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:23 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:23 am

    Finding the HTML Code in Photobucket (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: buehl on 02.11.2011 at 02:01 pm in Kitchens Forum


    There are two ways to get the HTML Code: from the album view and from the individual picture view. The former is faster; the latter is easier.

    From the album view:

    1. Place your cursor over the picture you wish to post and hover over it until a box with a larger picture and various code options appears.

    2. Now, place your cursor over the "HTML Code" box and click it.

    3. The code should briefly change to "Copied". This means you have copied the code.
      Note: it can sometimes be tricky getting the "copied" to appear. If you're having trouble, get the code from the individual view (see below).

    4. Paste the code you just copied into the "Message" box of the post where you want the picture to appear.

    5. Return to step 7 in the first post (where it says to "preview") (use the < Ctrl >< V > keys)

    From the individual picture view:

    1. From the album view, place your cursor over the picture you wish to post and click it.

    2. The picure should now appear as an individual picture with the various code options listed on the right side of the page.

    3. Now, place your cursor in the "HTML Code" box and select the code.
      Use the < Ctrl >< A > keys to "select all" in the box or drag your cursor to select it all manually.

    4. Copy the code (use the < Ctrl >< C > keys)

    5. Paste the code you just copied into the "Message" box of the post where you want the picture to appear (use the < Ctrl >< V > keys)

    6. Return to step 7 in the first post (where it says to "preview")

    [As of 1/3/2011]

    PhotoBucket Link View:


    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:21 am

    RE: Statuary with Black Marble or Soapstone in the Kitchen? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: mama_goose on 11.29.2012 at 07:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I guess it depends on how honed you want the finish. I've never used Abranet, but I can tell you that I started with 80 grit to rough up the hard polish, then wet-sanded my way through 250, 400, and 600 grits. I bought the 400 and 600 grit sand paper in an auto supply store. And I also used a car buffer, first with the 600 grit paper, then with a fuzzy bonnet, to give it that hand rubbed 'glow.' In between sanding and buffing, I used dampened alumina powder with the fine sanding sponge. I think 150 grit would be too abrasive (for me.)

    I think I've mentioned this on another thread, but sanding marble makes a lot of fine dust. If you can't carry the island top outside to hone, wear a mask, and hold a vacuum close to catch the dust at the source. My palm sander has a reservoir, but I find it to be useless.

    BillVincent gave good advice on the thread linked here; buy a few pieces of marble tile at Lowe's or Home Depot, and try all the different grits and techniques. It will give you confidence!

    This post was edited by mama_goose on Thu, Nov 29, 12 at 19:20


    clipped on: 10.29.2013 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2013 at 08:01 pm

    RE: Butter stain?? on Carrara marble (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: srosen on 12.03.2011 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    White Carrara can be quite porous-The bellonzoni storebought poultice is a sodium hypochlorite (bleach) formulation with clay. It works and will not etch marble.
    You can make a homemade poultice using 30-40 % hydrogen peroxide and unscented baby powder mixed to a wet peanut butter consistency and placed over the stain(overlap) and covered with plastic overnight. After you pull the plastic dont touch again until the poultice is totally dry. Remove and see wha you get. You can use other methods as well such as acetone,alcohol ,bleach etc. For absorbant material you can use flour,baby powder,diatomaceus earth(used in pool filters) ,paper towels and even bleach. Our favorite is the peroxide. Wouldnt be a bad idea to check your countertop for porousity and apply a good sealer properly.
    To check for porousity puddle up a palm sized puddle of water in several areas and leave there for 10 minutes or so then wipe the wate away and see if a darker mark remains. If so it needs to be sealed. Always remember sealers are a temporary means to inhibit staining agents from entering the stone.
    Stu Rosen


    clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 10:16 pm

    RE: Serious Help!!! Can granite be 'unsealed'? (Follow-Up #18)

    posted by: oldryder on 10.25.2013 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    check out the following link:


    clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 11:47 pm

    RE: Fun thread-What decisions did you make/avoid thanks to GW? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: Madeline616 on 11.12.2012 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Annkathryn,

    Yes, the cleanser is from Cat_Mom. It's rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) and water, with a few drops of lavender essential oil.

    She uses 30-50% alcohol, I use closer to 25-30% alcohol. Add lavender oil until it smells nice and the alcohol smell is pretty well concealed.

    Cat_Mom uses it on her granite, stainless, and white Thassos marble. I use it on my Vermont Danby marble, my travertine floors, and sometimes on my stainless (although I prefer vinegar and water for the stainless).

    I love the fact that it's simple, inexpensive, and doesn't contain harsh chemicals.


    Marble Cleaner
    clipped on: 01.11.2013 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 01.11.2013 at 12:50 am

    Will you PLEASE post a link to your kitchen??

    posted by: susied3 on 05.22.2012 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have to say, I've spent the last 4 days probably over 20 hours of searching, here, google, FKB, every way possible, as to NOT bother you with this, BUT, I can't find MANY kitchens that I have notes on, with questions, and thought maybe if people would post the link to their original kitchen reveal, or progress pics, it might help others with questions as well.

    I have a list of TWENTY SEVEN names that I have specific questions about your kitchen! I thought maybe the link to a thread with info might answer many without having to bug everyone personally!

    In addition to those 27, I already have 32 threads saved in my favorites, some have the answers, some not, so will probably have to "bug you" for those. :)

    So, if you have it, will you post it? PLEASE??

    And, THANK YOU!!


    clipped on: 09.26.2012 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 09.26.2012 at 12:14 am