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RE: Help Making Final Soapstone Decision! (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: Quadesl on 04.07.2014 at 05:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a link the describes how to post pictures. Hope it helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: Posting pictures

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clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 09:55 pm

RE: pics of my prelim cabinet layout- help requested for proporti (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: westsider40 on 09.06.2013 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi to both of you. I am a gardenwebber with a finished kitchen in the Chicago suburbs. I used, and so did loves2cook4six, a superb cabinet company called Ayr custom cabinet. They are in Napannee Indiana but easily travel to your parts of Michigan. They have shipped cabs to Ireland. Ken Miller is the brilliant kitchen designer and nothing is too difficult for him. Truly defines the word, 'custom'.

He will measure, suggest, give you ideas. Give him a call.

I am just a very satisfied customer, no relation or ties. Re price, loves2cook4six did check and felt that Ayr was in line with the big box stores. Loves' kitchen is probably on the finished kitchen blog. Google Ayr+gardenweb+kitchens and you should find several posts about this fabulous cabinet maker. My kitchen was finished 2.5 years ago and I am loving the high quality cabs and the incredibly functional layout, including pot drawers, toekick drawers, over the oven vertical shelving for cookie sheets, etc., all drawer lower cabinets with front to back vertical dividers so that contents are not nested but easily retrievable. Imagine pots filed so that you swoop down and pick one out!.

Oh yes, google my name+(use the + sign)+ Ayr. Just trying to help.

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clipped on: 04.03.2014 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2014 at 06:20 pm

RE: Education on marble (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: srosen on 03.31.2014 at 08:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just to clarify this-I know dry treat and most of their products pretty well.
Dry treat stain proof is an impregnating solvent based sealer that has a high content of resin in its formulation.
Resin being the material that solidifies beneath the surface of your porous stone.
That and the fact that the formulation makes it a good penetrating product makes it a quality sealer.
Also it is easy to work with, breathable and when applied correctly works as good as a sealer can.
The performance of any impregnating sealer is defined as this.
"To temporarily inhibit the intrusion of staining agents from the surface of the stone"
End of list of performances.
Impregnating sealers do not have any effect to the surface of the stone.
They wont make them shiny or not as they live below the surface.
Trying to seal a dense stone that the sealer cant penetrate or barely penetrates may cause streaking issues and or etching issues. Sealer residue not properly removed from a dense stones surface can etch.
The process that polishes marbles and other calcareous stones uses potassium oxalate which has a chemical reaction with the calcium forming a layer on the surface of calcium oxalate. This chemical reaction makes the stone somewhat harder and less porous than in its honed state.
That's the reason sealers aren't as effective on polished stones-they simply don't penetrate.
Honed stones are more porous and take sealers better.
However there are exceptions such as honed black absolute, uba tuba and others that are dense even when honed.
I see granites and marble in folks homes everyday. For the amount of homes I see staining is far less than what you would think.
I do see some rust stains however .
But it isn't because it was or wasn't sealed . It is mainly on white marbles and the rusting is internal.
White marbles have high contents of ferrous minerals, put them in a wet area and they have the potential to rust.
I think we just put to much credence into sealing stone.
Yes I believe that porous stones need to be sealed with quality products and maintained with ph neutral products.
Quality sealers should last between 5 years and longer.
This thing about sealing every six months or a year is insane. Dry treat offers a 15 year warranty on stain proof but read the fine print before you sign on.
Vitremela is a topical product which I also know well.
Dry treat is working on it to get it ready for the market.
Its applied using infrared light.
Clearstone can be honed or polished. It is warranteed against staining and etching and it wont.
It will scratch which isnt covered.
I have applied lots of clearstone.
It isn't for everyone-it runs the full gamut of pros and cons.
It is pricey as well. Can take 2-3 days in an average kitchen to apply.
. I think it is important that if your in the market for stone you learn about its nature and character.
Find a great bone fide fabricator who knows stone-you wont be sorry.(very important)
Find out the best way to maintain it.
Before purchasing take some home and treat it like the busiest area in your kitchen. Then place it by a window, see if there are issues that bother you.
Try to purchase a stone that wont drive you crazy and you will be fine.

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clipped on: 03.31.2014 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2014 at 10:10 pm

RE: Disparity of pricing in Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jakuvall on 11.27.2012 at 11:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

...and master of none":) wasn't sure I wanted to get into this - it's long, but here you go.

The frame is the structure on a framed cabinet. Frames are glued. Modern glues are incredibly strong but bond best when the wood is glued long grain to long grain. An end grain to long grain joint will fail without any other means of connection.

A pocket hole joint is end grain to long grain, so a metal screw is added to hold the joint together longer, increase the strength. Without the screw the joint will fail. (when installing pocket hole cabinets it is a good idea not to put too much pressure in the middle of a wide top rail or you may hear a little crack. Once the counters are on the load is distribuetd so not as big an issue)

The other factore is that wood expands and contracts seasonally. Metal does not. As the wood expands it pushes against the metal of the screw and compresses. Eventually it compresses and does not expand back again. This is called "compression set". That's what causes the heads to fall off of hammers (see Bruce Hoadley- Understanding Wood)
Until the invention of pocket hole screws some form of joint was always used to allow for a long grain to long grain glue joint. Originally this was a mortise and tenon- the strongest most durable joint for this application.

A loose tenon, or dowels are a variations on the tenon joint. Both are easier to use in production. Loose tenon having more surface for the glue joint and IF properly fit (big if,I once handled a brand that used loose tenons that I will not sell) are better than dowels. Dowels are easier to use in production and don't have the same fit problems.

Which construction one picks is a matter of budget and how long you want things to last. Pocket holes frames are just fine, there are lots of pocket hole cabinets out there, likely more than 70% of the market (I carry one in my store and put them in my fathers kitchen-in wood) Overall though, mfg using better frame construction typically use better methods for other aspects of construction, particularly since it is something that you don't see and that the average consumer must be shown. Hoever price does not always guarantee better construction, there are some pricey pocket hole cabinets.
So when you ask about the disparity in cabinet pricing, there is a little more to it than dovetail drawers with soft close and some sort of..don't get me starte- plywood sides- those are the easiest things for a mfg to control and IMO are not indicative of quality, merely the minimum requirements.

As to your paint issue- I'm surprised but don't doubt you. I used to work for a Wood-Mode/Brookhaven dealer for 8 years, very nice cabinet, good company (they did replace your doors). During my tenure there we likely sold 1000 kitchens in those brands, statistically 40% would have been painted. Never had an issue similar to yours.

I wonder if 22 years ago the paint was different, polyester perhaps. It is one of the materials that has a tendancy to craze, especially as formulated back then (spent a while dealing with lots of kinds of materials, where the jakuvall comes from)
The most common reason I've ever seen crazing is the inadvertant inroduction of a solvent. It can be surprising what cleaning products have solvents. But hard to say.
Cracking- if it was at the joints that is to be expected in a painted finish- in any brand with any joint. It will be less with better joints, but wood moves more than paint. Other cracking- have not idea.
BTW Wood-Mode cabinets are doweled- one reason they lasted 22 years.

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Explanation of cabinet construction
clipped on: 03.31.2014 at 12:50 am    last updated on: 03.31.2014 at 12:50 am

KAW...pizza steel !!

posted by: trailrunner on 03.13.2014 at 08:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow...that is about all I can say...well haha...you KNOW better. I have had it since last year and it sits and waits patiently for me to use it...sigh. Today was the day. I baked sourdough bread this AM ...there is a thread over on cooking forum if you want to travel over and look :) I stirred up the pizza dough late this afternoon on a whim, used the recipe from The Way the Cookie Crumbles Blog. I didn't put in the wine but followed all the other inst. Amazing..perfect crust. I preheated the steel 6" from the top of the oven. 550. for 40 min. I divided the dough in to 3 /12oz pieces and used two and put one in fridge to try tomorrow and see how it does. I had also bought some pizza screens last year and never used them...do you see a trend ???? I stretched the dough...which is amazingly easy to do. I placed it on the screen and topped lightly with sauce and pepperoni and only 6 oz fresh mozz and 4 oz parmesan.

All of this is new territory for me. I usually prebake the crust a few minutes to set it up in order to try and avoid soggy...and I usually over load the fillings. Restraint was my friend tonight . Baked in the oven for 5 min....slid the screen out from under the pizza with my peel and finished it for 3 min. Perfection...I tell you perfection. Number 2 was even more wonderful! And the great thing is that my 7 yr old Miele ovens hold the temp . so the oven was ready for #2 by the time is was topped and ready to put it in. Perfection :) indeed. All of this and I forgot to turn on the broiler to high to superheat the stone...tomorrow :)

Here are some pics. I am so ready to try pizza once a week now and see where this new interest leads me. Trips to the gym will now increase as will the bike miles...LOL !

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number 2 in foreground :

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number 1 :

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clipped on: 03.13.2014 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 11:10 am

RE: new granite water stain (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 11.09.2013 at 09:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Water left overnight that dries could leave some mineral residue that should wipe up easily. You would notice just a light outline of where the water dried. A non ammonia glass cleaner should work. Cleaners with a vinegar dilution work well also on mineral deposits. Make sure your surface is acid resistant first.
If the marks or stains you are getting are a whitish spot or hazy type of ghost like mark then that would indicate possibly a sealer has been applied incorrectly.
I don't think the sealer got etched but the water sitting on the sealer may have gotten below the sealer and caused the mark. If a water based sealer was used the white mark once the water evaporates may dry and be gone. With solvent based sealers the mark may stay.
If this is your case call your installer and they will be able to remove the product and with it the marks.
Of course test your stone and do a little research before speaking to them.
If a dense stone has been sealed by an inexperienced worker its possible that some sealer residue is left on the surface of the stone. I would bet the side where you are having no problems may have been sealed by another worker correctly or not sealed.

Verde Candias from brazil is quite dense-In the stone business a true stain(caused by a staining agent) will always be darker than the stone itself.
A lighter stain will indicate an etch mark. Generally there are no exceptions to this rule.
However Verde candias is acid resistant and wont etch from normal household acids. Sealers are impregnating(they live below the surface of the stone) but when left on the surface they will etch.
Do the water test to check porosity by puddling up a palm sized puddle of water and leaving there for 10 or 15 minutes.
Then wipe away -if a dark mark remains the surface is absorbent. The mark will disappear and you will know whether your surface is absorbent or not.
Hope this helps

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clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 12:48 pm

RE: Found my WOW factor! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: oldbat2be on 03.06.2014 at 10:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Do tell about the Showhouse, sounds v. exciting.

WOW factor - CHECK!!

I'm making your 'Ultimate Coconut Cake Cocktails' again this weekend for a get together I'm hosting for my bootcamp buddies. Always think of you and smile with this recipe. Linking for the curious :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Ultimate Coconut Cake Cocktail

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clipped on: 03.06.2014 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2014 at 10:18 pm

Dirt Bombs...

posted by: solsthumper on 03.06.2007 at 08:41 pm in Cooking Forum

Stacy and Annie, kids of all ages love these, it's a cross between a cinnamom sugar doughnut and a muffin. Enjoy.


Dirt Bombs
Yields: 12 muffins*

3 cups AP flour, minus 3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon baking powder
� teaspoon salt
� teaspoon ground nutmeg
� teaspoon ground cardamon
� cup (1 � sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk **

Topping ***

� cups unsalted butter, melted
� cup granulated sugar
1 � teaspoons ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400� F. Place the rack in the center position. Generously grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.

Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cardamon into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Scrape the bowl down half way through. Mix in the eggs. Add the dry ingredients alternately with the milk in two additions, mixing gently by hand to incorporate all the flour. The batter will be on the stiff side, but airy. Don�t over mix or beat the batter as this will make the muffins tough. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, without smoothing the tops. Bake for about 25 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. As soon as the muffins are cool enough to handle, turn them out onto a wire rack.

Add the melted butter to a bowl. In another bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon.
Dip the muffins (top, sides and bottom) in the butter, using a pastry brush -if necessary- to cover areas not buttered by dipping. Immediately roll the muffins in the cinnamon sugar mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature.

*I've made this twice, and both times, this recipe has yielded 16 muffins instead of 12.
**I substituted whole buttermilk for whole milk because I always have it on hand and prefer it for baking.
*** The amounts listed for the sugar and cinnamon are not quite enough to coat all the muffins, so I recommend you double it.

Sol

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clipped on: 03.04.2014 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2014 at 10:34 pm

RE: Bosch DW gives off funny smell after several days of non-use. (Follow-Up #60)

posted by: noelandjenny on 08.14.2010 at 02:12 pm in Appliances Forum

We started using our new Bosch dishwasher in July and had the same issue. I was dismayed at the smell esp since I've had several friends who highly recommended this product and never had this issue. AND it was brand new.

I called Bosch (their customer call center's the worst), aside from being dismissive/rude, they were pretty useless. Then I called Yale, the appliance store where we bought our dishwasher (still had a warranty). Very knowledgeable service person came - he's worked with dishwashers old and new. He said the smell can be a result of several minor factors. And he was right, after these adjustments, we now are odor free. Thought I'd share if this will help others who find this post:

1) Ensure the drain hose is properly installed (ours was ok per service person but this is a common cause)

2) Ensure your H20 is hot when you run the dishwasher. In our case, it takes a while for the water to heat up so he advised us to run the tap till the H20 gets hot. He said that the dishwasher will heat up the H20 but still better to run the tap since the Bosch does not use much water.

3) Do not use too much dishwashing liquid - he recommends just a 3rd of the capacity. The Bosch (SHX45Po5UC)'self computes' load. He said putting too much dishwashing liquid vs not enough hot water messes it up.

4) Do not rinse dishes. He says the high efficiency dishwashers works better with just the right amt of hot water, not too much dishwashing liquid and "dirt" to work with. Just scrape off big pieces of food that wont dissolve (i.e., big seeds, etc) - leave grease, oil, sauces, small bits of food on.

5) We dont run the dishwasher everyday (unlike our friends who have the same product). He recommends just leaving the door ajar (do not click it closed)so there's circulation. The high efficiency dishwasher seals tight so with all other factors exacerbates smell issues.

6) To remove the smell, he popped in an Affresh tablet. He thinks vinegar works just as well and run the tap to hot before running the dishwasher on its highest setting.

After doing all these small adjustments above, the Bosch now works as advertised. I think we learned the hard way that we cant assume that we can use this dishwasher the same way we used our Frigidaire dishwasher (in our previous home) or our Kitchenaid dishwasher (7 yr old model prior to our renovation)

Without this issue, it is a great high efficiency dishwasher which cleans extremely well. I have always pre-rinsed my dishes before (and was very doubtful of the service person's advice esp in tandem with the advice to reduce detergent use) but the Bosch has been a virtuoso with really oily or heavily soiled dishes.

Hope this helps others.

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clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 05:58 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 06:21 pm

RE: Is this staining my marble counter? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: cindallas on 02.25.2014 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used a product that was new to me called 'Stain Proof' original formula by Dry-Treat. We had to do a lot of research for something different (since the others had not worked for us) and came across this sealer. It has smaller molecules (or something) and seals the pores while still allowing any moisture to escape. (My DH is a testing engineer and he was impressed with all this - a tall order I assure you! We are not affiliated with this at all, just passing along lessons learned.)

This is not a low VOC product but once cured is food safe. Complete info and directions are in the link below. Basically, this is a solvent sealer that we wiped on with a cotton rag (had latex gloves on and you may need a mask or respirator or an open window as they suggest), let dry for up to 10 minutes and then repeat the process and the final in a quick wipe dry (with s second dry cloth). Initial cure is 24 hours but keeps penetrating and curing for an additional 3 weeks for the full deep cure. Best stain and water resistance after that.

They do have a new cream formula that IS a low VOC product and LEED compliant. I have not used this one personally but is supposed to have the same results, but a slower application method. This one has to stay on for an hour and initial cure time is 24 hrs with full deep cure in 3-5 weeks. Slower for what I used it for but you may prefer it. That is called Meta Cream and be sure to read all the directions. Click on the 'Products' and then 'Protection' for a drop down menu then click on it.

I used the original formula for our master bath for the onyx slabs and leathered limestone because it was faster. (I was personally sealing almost 1000 sq ft of tile and about 6 slabs of onyx (and seams) for the steam shower wall sections, bench and niches, the tub surround, wall sections and niches, both vanities and inserts in the limestone floor! And I did it myself because I was tired of problems with fabricators not doing what I asked, and I didn't want any problems with it. And the satisfaction and security of knowing it was done right. I had quite an assembly line going! I'd say I'm experienced with it!) There is a 'where to buy' section so you can look it up in your area or order it direct. We first had to special order it and now it's stocked locally. It's expensive as sealers go, but worth it for us. Original is $59 to $75 for a quart. It goes a long way. So just for this you will be buying more than you need.

It has an official warranty of 15 years if applied by a certified applicator, but we just did it ourselves. You may be interested in the official warranty in case look for authorized ( or is it certified?) applicators in your area.

Be sure your stain is out COMPLETELY before you seal with this and also that everything is totally dry inside. (It will slow down the curing process if damp.) Be sure to also seal not only on the flat part of the edge, but the very top edge like a 45 degree angle would get, that very top section if raw edge that looks stained now. And be sure to let dry completely and then seal the raw edges of the drilled holes for the plumbing.

If you have any questions at all just let me know. Hope this works for you like it did for us!

Here is a link that might be useful: Special sealer

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clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 03:23 pm

KAW....3 minutes on a side

posted by: trailrunner on 02.16.2014 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

DH made his famous buttermilk pancakes this AM. The blueberries are from a friend who picks them in WI and brings me 10# once a year...they are SO good. The buttermilk is Bulgarian from Walmart ( that is the only place I can find it ) . The griddle is a Vintage Dazey Short Order Chef , sometimes you can find them on Ebay. Ours is so old but it is the best and you can flip the grids for waffles ! The maple syrup is from Vermont and I buy a gallon when I am in NYC visiting cat_mom and friends !

 photo IMG_6846_zps4c59956b.jpg

 photo IMG_6847_zps3c1d930d.jpg

 photo IMG_6849_zpscc4604ba.jpg

DH flipping:

 photo IMG_6850_zps39a47de0.jpg

 photo IMG_6851_zps6016fe76.jpg

place the griddle under the 1500 cfm hood to capture all the HOGS....if you think you don't need a good hood ....well you do ! Makes all the difference. I want to enjoy my pancakes once...not all day as the fragrance becomes aged fumes.

 photo IMG_6848_zps6a15bf86.jpg

If you would like the recipe just ask...I would be glad to share...and if you are in central AL ...just give us a few minutes notice..and you can join us for breakfast. c

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 08:39 pm

RE: KAW....3 minutes on a side (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: trailrunner on 02.16.2014 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you Holly ! Thank you leela...I am very lucky !

Hey andrea...not stupid at all! I am linking below to a good article. It is a particular culture strain that is really more tart. We get Dairy Fresh brand. I wish it didn't have other thickeners in it but it is delicious ! It is best because it is REALLY thick. It you notice how the batter sits up on the griddle. It is quite thick but they come out very light. Here is the recipe. Don't thin the batter....really barely stir it and leave lumps....

Whisk together 2 c AP flour, 3 tsp fresh baking powder ( makes a huge difference..check your dates) 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp baking soda ( check date on this too...keep sealed well..believe it or not it does expire and lose potency) Beat 2 large eggs and 2 c. Bulgarian Buttermilk and a scant 1/4 c peanut or other no flavor oil together. Add to dry and barely mix...fold in blueberries very gently. Have griddle oiled and on hottest setting ...cook 3 min approx on a side till golden. Your griddle may vary. ENJOY!

Here is a link that might be useful: cultured buttermilk..bulgarian

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clipped on: 02.17.2014 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2014 at 08:31 pm

RE: Razor blades on granite (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: srosen on 02.15.2014 at 10:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Just a little tip for removing hard water deposits on granite.
mix up 50 % vinegar and 50% water solution.
Granites are acid resistant but there are so many geologically different stones being sold under the granite label you need to verify yours is acid resistant.
You can dab on or spray on to the affected areas let sit for a minute or two.
Then using this type razor blade held at a 45 degree angle sliding easy across the affected area. The deposits will be easily removed and the surface will be shiny again.
On marble there are non acidic products on the market that will work as well.
MB-3 soap film remover(safe on marble) will also work great on mineral deposits around faucets. Dilute the product as per instructions using hot water. Spray on the affected area and scrub with medium stiff brush and let dwell keeping wet for 10 minutes or so. Then scrub again and rinse. If the deposits are stubborn you will need to repeat. You could use the razor(only if you are comfortable)(practice on a spare piece so you know how to hold and move it) but you must keep it straight and at a 45 degree angle.Be very gentle never forcing movement.
Always use a new blade as lades get dull very fast.
Keeping it wet with product will help the action.
Wear gloves and always test first.

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clipped on: 02.15.2014 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 02.15.2014 at 11:40 am

RE: Best Granite Sealer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.04.2009 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh boy! That is almost like asking what is the best car! There are very many choices and very many really good products out there. You could probably ask 10 different stone guys and have about 15 different recommendations.

StoneTech makes good sealers, as does Miracle. Dry-Treat is one often mentioned and of course STT sealers, although the last two are geared more to supplying the fabricator than the homeowner.

Sealers that I would never recommend are the products from the TileLab range you find at Home Depot. They are very low in solid content and are ineffective at best.

Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

Here is a how-to for sealing:
You will need the following:
1. Home improvement strength alcohol
2. Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
4. Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
3. Sealer

What to do:
1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single , heavy handed application.

For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy

You could use a product like StoneTech's Revitalizer or the 3-in-1 from Granquartz as an occasional sealer maintenance cleaner

NOTES:

Resealing stone
clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 11:38 am    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 11:38 am

RE: Tile Cleaning, New Grout and Sealing--$$$ (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.25.2010 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

If they're talking about coming in ans steam cleaning the grout, it's worth the money. Otherwise, you'd do just as well to DIY it, using Oxyclean, a scrub brush, and a shopvac. Mix the Oxyclean at twice the concentration they recommend on the side of the tub. Use the scrub brush to agitate the grout joints. DO NOT mop up the dirty solution, because all you do is embed the dirt right back into the grout. Use the shop vac, set up for wet pick-up, and vacumn it up. Do the same thing all over again, but this time with clear water (and the brush). Again, vacumn it up. You'll see a big difference. The ONLY way you'll get them cleaner is by someone coming in with professional steam cleaning equipment.

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clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 05:00 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 05:00 pm

RE: Which of these selaers would you choose for Danby marble? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: srosen on 02.06.2012 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I assume your dandy is honed. Polished stone will always be in most cases a lot less porous than when it is honed-any of those sealers will work well they are all good-somewhat different formulations but all quality.
Before you begin sealing you may want to test your stone first by placing a few palm sized puddles of water in two or so locations . Let them sit for 10 or 15 minutes and then wipe away the water with a paper towel. If it leaves a dark spotit will give you a good idea how absorbant or not it is. Dandy is porous but it is good to see for your self what your seling and the difference the sealer will make.
Just remember one fact that a sealer will only temporarily inhibit the intrusion of staining agents into the the stone. Temporary is the key word.If you do combine two compatible sealers you may get a better seal. But if your stone isnt all that porous the second sealer wont penetrate the first sealer so you have just spent a good buck on a sealer you dont need. The key to the whole sealing thing imo is that as a homeowner you can do a better job than most contractors because you arent hurrying off to the next job. You can do several applications (I dont call them coats)(because even if you do two coats back to back it is still one application)in this manner. Apply the fist application in managable areas (3-4 ft sections)keeping it wet for 15 minutes or so.
Then remove the excess(all of it)so that it is dry to the touch. Remember the sealer is impregnating. (It lives below the surface)If you dont remove all the excess you will have an epic adventure removing the residue from the surface. Ok -when your ready to move to the next area repeat the same procedure but make sure you overlap where you left off. Now you can finish the rest of your surfaces in this manner.
Then wait 24 hours and test it using the water test.If it is still absorbent repeat the entire process. The reason for waiting 24 hours to do the next application is that it takes the sealer a minimum of 24 hours to cure in most cases. Once it has cured the second application wont go below the first application resulting in a better seal.
Also if you use the proper cleaning regimen using ph neutral cleaners you will prolong the life of the sealer. Be aware that sealers will not prevent etching from acidic products.
Oh Yeah-just so you know if you ever do get a stain it can be removed using a poultice-but act quickly and use the right one. You can always email or call us if you have any issues.
Stu Rosen
www.mbstonecare.com
www.stoneshine.com

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 11:34 am

Favorite Penzeys Spice?

posted by: vicki_lv on 02.06.2010 at 12:18 pm in Cooking Forum

I didn't want to highjack GoldGirl's scrambled egg post. I noticed that lpinkmountain mentioned the Mural of Flavor from Penzeys. So, now I think I need to get some of that.

What is your favorite Penzeys spice and why?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 12:51 pm

RE: I need help choosing curtains for this room. (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 12.29.2013 at 04:10 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

First I thought I'd post this here for you.

HOW TO POST PICTURES
Posted by kraftymom (My Page) on
Sat, Sep 25, 10 at 15:48

You can't post pics from the Gallery, you have to use a shared photo site like Photobucket. I use Photobucket and here are the instructions:

1. Register of course with Photobucket. (it's free)

2. Upload your photos to Photobucket from your personal files (very easy to do).

3. Click on the photo you want to share/post and a new window will open. To the left of your photo you will be given a choice on how you want to share it. Click on 'HTML Code' and the line will be briefly highlighted and tell you the link was copied.

4. Come back here to your post and 'right click' on your mouse to open the window that will give you the option to 'paste'. Click 'paste' and the link to your pic will show up as SCRIPT ONLY in your message box (no pic yet).

5. Click on 'Preview Message' below the message window. Another window will open and your picture should now be inserted. Post your message.

*To add more than one pic repeat steps 1-4. When done go to step 5.

________
Next it's pretty clear that you do have a clear preference for style and colors. I love the happy pleated pillow cover you posted above. That's a great starting point.
I'm not sure why you think you need solid WT's. Basically everyone here has expressed that you should add some pattern, this room is screaming for pattern.
I'll get you started by putting all those objects above onto a mood board. What I would do if I were you is open the mood board on your screen, then open another window and go to a site like Calico Corners, and split the screen so that you can see both. Then start searching print drapery fabrics, seeing what strikes your fancy. You can save everything to a Pin board on Pinterest, easiest IMO, or save to your computer and then compile a list and ask again for opinions.
I'll post your mood board in a separate post.

NOTES:

How to post pictures
clipped on: 12.29.2013 at 06:18 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2013 at 06:18 pm

RE: Shiloh cabinets installed (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Autumn.4 on 02.03.2013 at 07:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

chiricahua.lady - this is where the html code is (see blue circled spot):

 photo photobucketpicsnip_zps8d1468e5.jpg

Hover over where the html is and left click - it should briefly show copied . Then paste it into the message box on GW.

So that photo's code pasted here shows:
 photo farmhouse1.jpg

Good luck! I'd love to see your shiloh cabinets!

NOTES:

Posting photos
clipped on: 12.29.2013 at 12:13 am    last updated on: 12.29.2013 at 12:13 am

RE: Christmas Eve and Christmas Day Tables (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: deeinohio on 12.27.2013 at 09:59 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Thanks bpathhome. I'm sure your holdiay was difficult, too, with the absence of your FIL.

KSWL, thank you. The link below shows how to do the Christmas tree napkin. She mentions that it looks better with an overall pattern. Mine above has a red border, and I like that. I didn't have enough for everyone so I also used a solid red. I didn't like that as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Christmas tree napkin fold

NOTES:

Christmas Tree Napkin fold
clipped on: 12.27.2013 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 12.27.2013 at 10:56 am

RE: Holiday Break Lighting Vote Anyone? (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 12.23.2013 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lisa, got home and saw your Pinterest page, plugged some more in and posted them to the Pinterest board titled Lisa's lighting. Feel free to have a look, and post the ones here that you want feedback on.
More ornate chandy

Tuscan chandy

The more ornate drum chandy

Do you know how to post using the img html so that you don't need to upload to photobucket?

Right click on the photo, choose "copy image location", then copy that. come to this board and type in
< img src=http://www.pinterest.com/pin/180918110005104884/ > the image location, followed by the end >

I've typed one here using spaces between the command sign and the img src command so that it would show here, just don't leave the spaces and you'll have your pics.
Saves that whole step of uploading to photobucket, which I have no patience for.

This post was edited by mlweaving_Marji on Mon, Dec 23, 13 at 18:21

NOTES:

How to post without photobucket
clipped on: 12.25.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 12.25.2013 at 01:20 am

KAW: salted caramels

posted by: annkathryn on 12.07.2013 at 09:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm enjoying all of the kitchen at work threads so thought I'd post one of my own.

I've been making caramels every holiday season for many many years. Chocolate and vanilla. Last year I finally caught up to the salted craze and now I'm making Fleur de Sel Caramels exclusively. This afternoon I cooked up 3 batches and wrapped 2 of them. I love my induction cooktop and hood - I can easily regulate the temperature, and the caramels generate a lot of steam.

Ingredients. The Fleur de Sel is French sea salt, very expensive, but only takes a little per batch.

From caramels

Trusty thermometer, cream and butter waiting for the sugar and syrup to rise to 320F.

From caramels

While I cook, I cut squares of wax paper for wrapping. The cellophane bags are for orders I sell. I use paper gift bags for friends.

From caramels

After the butter and cream is added, I cook to 245F.

From caramels

First batch poured into pan lined with Parchment paper.

From caramels

I let it cool just a little then sprinkle the salt over so that it sinks into the caramels.

From caramels

Second batch on the way.

From caramels

Next batch, divided into 2 bread pans.

From caramels

Cutting the first batch.

From caramels

Wrapping caramels. The metal bowl is for 'rejects', either odd-sized pieces or pieces that have crystallized sugar which happens sometimes.

From caramels

First batch.

From caramels

Small gift bags for friends. I'll be topping these bags off with more caramels as soon as I wrap the 3rd batch. Batches 4-6 tomorrow!

From caramels

I'll link the recipe below. Even though it says not to double the recipe, I always do.

Here is a link that might be useful: This is the recipe I use

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.09.2013 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 12.09.2013 at 09:35 am

RE: How to roast a 9# ribeye? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: ovenbird on 12.25.2006 at 10:50 am in Cookware Forum

Thanks bluelytes! I also started a thread at the Cooking Forum where I got some good responses too. I used cabogirl's method and my roast turned out absolutely gorgeous and so succulent. However, I think next time I might do what you do and not use a rack. I did miss having alot of pan juices for gravy.

Here is a link that might be useful: cooking forum thread

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.19.2013 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2013 at 08:14 pm

RE: Posting photos from an iPad. I'm an idiot... (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: GWlolo on 08.09.2013 at 12:45 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I much prefer the photobucket app as it is easy to post multiple photos. Open photobucket app, go to the photo in the album, touch the link icon at top, all the link options popup, touch the html link option and it is automatically copied. In the gw rowser page just touch where you want the picture and it is automatically posted. You can repeat for as manynas you need. Uploading is also a snap.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.17.2013 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2013 at 12:20 pm

RE: Which banquette bench do you like? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: badgergal on 06.29.2012 at 11:29 am in Kitchens Forum

2LittleFishies: my upholstered sitting area chairs are tub styled with no wood but my dining chairs are wood with upholster seat cushions. I sprayed my chairs in the house. I put a plastic tarp down on my wood floors first under the chairs. I did nothing to protect the wood on my dining chairs. I can't say how much of the product may have gotten on the wood but if any did there was no damage. The 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is in a non- aerosol bottle spray bottle that can be set to spray or stream. The bottle contains the usually warnings about fumes and ventilation but to me it really was not smelly and there is absolutely no chemical smell left on the treated fabric.

The spray makes the fabric water repellant. Water literally does bead up on it which it does not do on my new living room couch with a factory applied stain guard. I did test putting cooking oil on some scrap fabric that I treated with the 303 and it cleaned up with no stain. I dont recall what the content of my fabrics is. It says on the bottle that it is for all fabric but suggests testing for colorfastness. It also says it is recommended by and for Sunbrella Brand Fabric so I guess that's a pretty could endorsement.

I guess it's considered expensive at about $14 for a 16 ounce bottle. But I think it is worth it. I sprayed it liberally and did 8 dining chair cushions and the top, sides, front, back and both sides of the cushions for two tub chairs. I used about 24 ounces of the product.

Hope this info is of some help to you. I have been following all your kitchen posts and can't wait to see how the finished product looks. Love the choices you have made so far.

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clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 12:40 pm

RE: Dog vomit stains grout...ideas? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: srosen on 11.09.2013 at 09:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Yes Try the HP poultice. We have removed many stains using this method. I want to add that poulticing method has been around for a long time. My mentor Maurizio Bertolli used it often in many situations, but it is tops for organic staining. I actually thought a group of witches who had marble floors passed it down to him!!
When you mix the poultice you want a wet peanut butter consistency. Also use gloves when handling HP 30 or 40% volume. You must have patience however.
I wanted to add that a great way to protect grout is color sealing. We use a product called color clad for our customers. It is amazing and will keep grout looking perfect for many years-it will never stain either.You can google it.
Good luck if you poultice

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clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 01:17 pm

RE: Pre-treating marble using Comet w/ Bleach before installation (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 01.03.2012 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Always keep in mind that a stain that is darker than the stone is a true stain caused most likely by some type of staining agent. An etch mark will always be lighter than the stone and shouldnt be classified as a stain.
Etch marks depending on how severe they are always need to be removed using abrasives on a honed surface. On a polished surface if an etch mark is light enough it can be removed using a polishing compound specific to marble.
Would that process make it easier to remove stains or make the stone more resistant to staining? No I dont think so!
The stone makeup dictates how porous or not it will be.
When honed(marble)it should always be properly sealed with a high quality impregnating sealer. I wouldnt use the bleach and abrasive too often as you will drive yourself nuts resealing. Let the etch marks build up over a time period(or until they drive you crazy!)then try the do it yourself method or have it done professionally. I work on alot of danby in kitchens honed. I must report it holds up pretty well-yes it etches but I dont see many stains and so far they have been removed in most cases with a good poultice of hydrogen peroxide and talc or another absorbant medium.
2littlefishies-
I think it is practical for vermont quarries to use that process and give a solution to their customers so they can ubderstand the stone and be more in control of their countertops. Is the process perfect? no There will be cases when a stronger abrasive will be needed to remove certain etching or scratching. Even pros will use one type of abrasive on the majority of the countertop but will use a lower grit or more agressive technique to get out the stubborn etches or scratches. Anyway in regards to your question I think a homeowner could do this at home as well but it is kinda nice that you dont have to refinish your new countertop after it gets installed. If you do have an issue down the road you have a way to repair it on your own.
Stu Rosen
www.mbstonecare.com

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clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 12:24 pm

RE: Dog vomit stains grout...ideas? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: srosen on 11.07.2013 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you have the grout I would use a dremel with a diamond bit cut out the stained area. The replace with the same grout.
If that isn't possible make a poultice of 30/40% volume hydrogen peroxide and place on top of the stain. Cover it with plastic overnight. Then take off the plastic and let the poultice dry out completely. It must be completely dry.
Then remove it with a putty knife. See if the stain is better or gone. If much lighter repeat.
If gone use a neutral cleaner and clean the area of any residue.

NOTES:

Tile floor grout with dog vomit & red/orange stain
clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 08:53 pm

RE: Natural Cherry Reveal - Photo Heavy (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: lucas_tx on 11.01.2013 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry missed the bookcase question. Yes it sits directly on the hearth. It was already there and we just left it as is during the reno. The other book case where we added the granite was there but we took it out during the reno, put the hardwood under it and then cut it down so it would still meet up properly with all the trim to right of it. The wall behind it was paneled as well and we removed a big fur down that hung down between the living room and nook so had to redo that wall. (It looked like a beam but wasn't was just decorative and I wanted to blend the two spaces together).

I don't have any pics but there was a pony wall between the nook and living room on the window side with the wood spindles going to the ceiling. We took that out and left just those very small walls, partly to define the nook but also for practical reasons. If you've never considered what's involved in making an open space where there was not one before, one of the issues is where to put electrical outlets and light switches. Since that nook is on an exterior wall, we did not want to have to move the outlets to that wall and the light switches would have had to move to other walls, meaning a lot of new wire would have to be run and so forth. So we elected to do those small walls on each end, and we like the look a lot.

On the dining room, yes there is the reno picture but at that point we've already pulled down the paneling. The LR paneling is really nice constructed on site stuff that DR.... ugh it was awful, cheap, plasticy looking stuff. Not sure why they did that, they did use a lot of wood in the house and for the most part it's all nice stuff.

On the food, the asparagus is at 450 for 10 mins.
On the tomatoes, I could look at the recipe but it's one of this things you can do your own thing. I kind of use recipes to get ideas and then wing it based on what I like and/or have on hand. One sheet of puff pastry. Spread with the filling which was like some olive oil, sundried tomatoes, garlic, good olives, that kind of thing. Food process but leave chunky. Roll to the middle from the sides. Refrigerate till ready (did it the night before). Slice and bake. Thicker puff pasty takes longer, that one was like 400 for 20 mins or something like that.

The biggest hit which I failed to photograph was rice crackers topped with wasabi mayo, a small slice of teriyaki marinated then grilled flat iron steak (recipe uses flank steak but I like flat irons for everything) topped with a dab of the wasabi mayo and some chopped up fresh chives.

And speaking of having on hand, one of those doors in the utility hall is a huge under stair walk in pantry, in case anyone is wondering why we didn't do any kind of pantry pull outs in the kitchen. We have canisters, spices, stuff like that in the uppers to the left of the MW but everything else lives in the pantry.

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clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 11:17 pm

RE: Natural Cherry Reveal - Photo Heavy (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lucas_tx on 11.01.2013 at 07:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks bookworm. We love the kitchen, we fixed all the things that really bugged me when I cook and it's so much more functional and has so much more storage. We're not broke and we still like each other. All very important. Looking back at the thread I do see that I kind of focused on the details which lots of people ask about but didn't get many good shots showing a little more perspective, so I might try to add some of those. Harder to get though since since it's only about 10x10. You can only get just so far away. :-)

Do have a couple of gratuitous food shots from the "kitchen warming party"

Sundried tomato palmiers

 photo IMG_0471_zps3c924254.jpg

Phyllo prosciutto wrapped asparagus (forgot to take a shot after cooked but really good and really pretty)

 photo IMG_0473_zpsba5bed05.jpg

 photo IMG_0472_zpsc63461ae.jpg

Caprese skewers

 photo IMG_0474_zps211da431.jpg

Neighborhood came over enjoyed the food and oohh'd and ahh'd over the kitchen. In our 1980's neighborhood, this kitchen is an overachiever vs. on this forum where it's dwarfed by its bigger relatives.

This post was edited by lucas_tx on Fri, Nov 1, 13 at 19:23

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clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 11:16 pm

Posting a Link

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 04:37 am in Kitchens Forum

There are two ways to post a link:

To insert a link using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

  1. Insert the link in the "Optional Link URL:" box

  2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked in the "Name of the Link:" box

  3. If this is a new Post, you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message. So, compose your message and "preview" it. You will now see the link boxes and can now enter your link information.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

  1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
    <a href= http://www.XXX/>Description</a>
  2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link

  3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you next "preview" your message


********************************************************
[Please, do not bump this thread!]

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clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:33 am

Posting Pictures

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2011 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

This thread will describe how to post pictures from a photohosting site, from a PDF file, or from some other location on the web.

First, though, where are your pictures? If they are on your computer only, you will need to upload them to somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket, but there are other photo-hosting sites available. For example: Picasa, Filckr, Webshots, Snapfish.

  1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

  2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera, but get your pictures on a disk when they're developed & download them to your computer)

  3. Resize your pictures so they're not too big, generally no more than 400x300 (or 300x400)

    Resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar

    [You can also often resize pictures at your photohosting site, but it's faster to do it on your computer]


  4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

  5. Find the label that contains the HTML Code link to the picture and copy it

  6. Paste it into the thread's "Message" box (< Ctrl >< V>)

  7. Click the "Preview" button.

  8. You will now see the picture.

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clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:31 am

Tile Information... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:37 am in Kitchens Forum

...From our very own Bill Vincent...


See the Tile FAQs

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/gal0721314418958.html


How to clean ceramic tile floors

Hot water should be all you need for most of the time. The times you want a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.

Vinegar-- it'll do a good job, but the way it cleans is that it eats away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time. The oxyclean will do just as good a job, but without hurting the grout.

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clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:25 am

Stone Information (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Thread: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

Getting granite or other natural stone? Read the linked thread:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0402564914989.html


Marble/Granite Stain Removal Threads

  • Marble poultice: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0502034822079.html
  • Oil stain in granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg030842032164.html
  • Coffee Stain on Granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0914442618231.html
  • Update on Removal of Coffee Stain on Granite: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg091310171907.html
  • First stain on white marble: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1213183711789.html

  • Thread: Is there a DIY fix for scratched quartz countertop?: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0816513323387.html


    Thread: Best website I've found yet to view granite

    Posted by remodelfla on Fri, Mar 20, 09 at 22:58

    While doing a search I came across marble.com website. They have some amazing links including galleries with real life kitchens with a huge variety of stones installed. I didn't even get to the bathroom side yet. The pictures are beautiful. They also seem to have 3D and 2D interactive capacities which I haven't yet played with either. Will have to wait for a rainy Sunday when I want something to do.

    Anyway... I've haven't seen one this good yet and thought others might be able to utilize it. ENJOY!

    http://www.marble.com/countertops/galleries/thumb/kitchens/1.html

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    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:24 am

    Useful Information (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:36 am in Kitchens Forum

    Useful Information

    National Kitchen & Bath Association's (NKBA) Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards: http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen.aspx
    Note: As of June 2010 or so, the NKBA began to deny access to their guidelines unless you join the NKBA (for a fee) or order a copy of the guidelines (again, for a fee). I still have the link here in case they decide to make this information available to non-members again.

    BH&G Kitchen Design Guidelines (it appears to have some updates to the NKBA guidelines that are not in the link above): http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/kitchen/planning/kitchen-design-guidelines/

    Other useful Forums for Kitchen Remodels:

    Plumbing Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/plumbing/

    Flooring Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/flooring/

    Lighting Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/lighting/

    Electrical Wiring Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/wiring/

    Remodeling Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/remodel/

    Home Decorating Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/decor/

    Paint Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/paint/

    Also doing a Laundry Room? See the Laundry Room Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/laundry/

    Or a Bathroom or Powder Room? See the Bathrooms Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/bath/

    Other That Home Site Forums: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:23 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:23 am

    Finding the HTML Code in Photobucket (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: buehl on 02.11.2011 at 02:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

    PhotoBucket:


    There are two ways to get the HTML Code: from the album view and from the individual picture view. The former is faster; the latter is easier.


    From the album view:

    1. Place your cursor over the picture you wish to post and hover over it until a box with a larger picture and various code options appears.

    2. Now, place your cursor over the "HTML Code" box and click it.

    3. The code should briefly change to "Copied". This means you have copied the code.
      Note: it can sometimes be tricky getting the "copied" to appear. If you're having trouble, get the code from the individual view (see below).

    4. Paste the code you just copied into the "Message" box of the post where you want the picture to appear.

    5. Return to step 7 in the first post (where it says to "preview") (use the < Ctrl >< V > keys)


    From the individual picture view:

    1. From the album view, place your cursor over the picture you wish to post and click it.

    2. The picure should now appear as an individual picture with the various code options listed on the right side of the page.

    3. Now, place your cursor in the "HTML Code" box and select the code.
      Use the < Ctrl >< A > keys to "select all" in the box or drag your cursor to select it all manually.

    4. Copy the code (use the < Ctrl >< C > keys)

    5. Paste the code you just copied into the "Message" box of the post where you want the picture to appear (use the < Ctrl >< V > keys)

    6. Return to step 7 in the first post (where it says to "preview")


    [As of 1/3/2011]


    PhotoBucket Link View:
    Photobucket

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 12:21 am

    RE: Statuary with Black Marble or Soapstone in the Kitchen? (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: mama_goose on 11.29.2012 at 07:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I guess it depends on how honed you want the finish. I've never used Abranet, but I can tell you that I started with 80 grit to rough up the hard polish, then wet-sanded my way through 250, 400, and 600 grits. I bought the 400 and 600 grit sand paper in an auto supply store. And I also used a car buffer, first with the 600 grit paper, then with a fuzzy bonnet, to give it that hand rubbed 'glow.' In between sanding and buffing, I used dampened alumina powder with the fine sanding sponge. I think 150 grit would be too abrasive (for me.)

    I think I've mentioned this on another thread, but sanding marble makes a lot of fine dust. If you can't carry the island top outside to hone, wear a mask, and hold a vacuum close to catch the dust at the source. My palm sander has a reservoir, but I find it to be useless.

    BillVincent gave good advice on the thread linked here; buy a few pieces of marble tile at Lowe's or Home Depot, and try all the different grits and techniques. It will give you confidence!

    This post was edited by mama_goose on Thu, Nov 29, 12 at 19:20

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    clipped on: 10.29.2013 at 08:01 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2013 at 08:01 pm

    RE: Butter stain?? on Carrara marble (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: srosen on 12.03.2011 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    White Carrara can be quite porous-The bellonzoni storebought poultice is a sodium hypochlorite (bleach) formulation with clay. It works and will not etch marble.
    You can make a homemade poultice using 30-40 % hydrogen peroxide and unscented baby powder mixed to a wet peanut butter consistency and placed over the stain(overlap) and covered with plastic overnight. After you pull the plastic dont touch again until the poultice is totally dry. Remove and see wha you get. You can use other methods as well such as acetone,alcohol ,bleach etc. For absorbant material you can use flour,baby powder,diatomaceus earth(used in pool filters) ,paper towels and even bleach. Our favorite is the peroxide. Wouldnt be a bad idea to check your countertop for porousity and apply a good sealer properly.
    To check for porousity puddle up a palm sized puddle of water in several areas and leave there for 10 minutes or so then wipe the wate away and see if a darker mark remains. If so it needs to be sealed. Always remember sealers are a temporary means to inhibit staining agents from entering the stone.
    Stu Rosen
    www.mbstonecare.com
    www.stoneshine.com

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    clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 10:16 pm

    RE: Serious Help!!! Can granite be 'unsealed'? (Follow-Up #18)

    posted by: oldryder on 10.25.2013 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    check out the following link:

    http://miraclesealants.com/download/it_stain_removal_guide.pdf

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    clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 11:47 pm

    RE: Fun thread-What decisions did you make/avoid thanks to GW? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: Madeline616 on 11.12.2012 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Annkathryn,

    Yes, the cleanser is from Cat_Mom. It's rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl) and water, with a few drops of lavender essential oil.

    She uses 30-50% alcohol, I use closer to 25-30% alcohol. Add lavender oil until it smells nice and the alcohol smell is pretty well concealed.

    Cat_Mom uses it on her granite, stainless, and white Thassos marble. I use it on my Vermont Danby marble, my travertine floors, and sometimes on my stainless (although I prefer vinegar and water for the stainless).

    I love the fact that it's simple, inexpensive, and doesn't contain harsh chemicals.

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    Marble Cleaner
    clipped on: 01.11.2013 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 01.11.2013 at 12:50 am

    Will you PLEASE post a link to your kitchen??

    posted by: susied3 on 05.22.2012 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have to say, I've spent the last 4 days probably over 20 hours of searching, here, google, FKB, every way possible, as to NOT bother you with this, BUT, I can't find MANY kitchens that I have notes on, with questions, and thought maybe if people would post the link to their original kitchen reveal, or progress pics, it might help others with questions as well.

    I have a list of TWENTY SEVEN names that I have specific questions about your kitchen! I thought maybe the link to a thread with info might answer many without having to bug everyone personally!

    In addition to those 27, I already have 32 threads saved in my favorites, some have the answers, some not, so will probably have to "bug you" for those. :)

    So, if you have it, will you post it? PLEASE??

    And, THANK YOU!!

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    clipped on: 09.26.2012 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 09.26.2012 at 12:14 am