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RE: IKEA Super Hack (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: dutty on 01.15.2014 at 02:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

lannegreene - Thank you. My cabinet crew/company really are superstars. They actually specialize in finishing and custom furniture and the guys really know their stuff. We are very blessed.

My ceilings are 10ft. My backsplash is 17.5". Here is a diagram of how I made sure all the tops of everything matched and fit. If you click on it, it should take you to a large version to see the measurements.

edited to add - I forgot... the dry bar (the self contained area with the arch) is different so if you're looking at that picture it isn't 17.5 inches. On that one we used 30" cabinets and made the backsplash area about 21" to fit a coffee maker. :)

This post was edited by dutty on Wed, Jan 15, 14 at 14:22


clipped on: 09.26.2014 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 09.26.2014 at 11:46 am

RE: IKEA Super Hack (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: dutty on 01.15.2014 at 11:49 am in Kitchens Forum

spartans99 - I will not be using IKEA doors because too many of my doors aren’t standard size. I will be getting custom wood doors. I was originally planning to use Scherr’s but our cabinet guys offered to go through their CalDoor rep and it ended up cheaper than Scherrs.

smiling - First of all, AWESOME username! ☺ Secondly, those are not IKEA cover panels. The cabinet guys made them to match the doors, which wasn’t all that hard since my cabinets will be painted. Well, except in the master bath where they are staining them.

Jenswrens - I busted out laughing at your OCD comment. You just can not imagine the level of OCD this was! Even the cabinet guys were laughing at the detail in my spreadsheets and instructions. Haha. Thank you for your kind words and I promise to post more pics as I go!

Williamsem - Ok… the hacks… it’s all based on the fact that IKEA cabinets do not come assembled. So, you have a flat pack with the sides, bottom, top, and back and you cut the pieces to size before you assemble. For example, IKEA does not make an 18” tall cabinet so if you took a standard 30” cabinet and cut the sides down to 18” and then the back down to 18” and THEN assembled the cabinet, you’d have a new size. Albeit you can’t use IKEA’s original installation holes but there are solutions for that depending on where you cut and what you cut off. You could also decrease the depth if you wanted the same way.

goodbyekitty - Yes… for the cabinets, we served as GC in sense. Our actual GC hated it because he said he was simply an accountant for this piece BUT it worked very well. We went when there was a 20% kitchen sale and bought everything and then hired the installers.

rockybird - We are getting the doors through a place called CalDoors. They are “to the trade” only but because we hired a professional crew to do the install, they are getting the doors for us. It worked out well because it was CHEAPER than Scherr’s or Barker Doors. They will be shaker doors with some flat front drawers so some of the cover panels are flat and some will be shaker.

scrappy25 - When you say corner support, what do you mean? The cabinet makers built the bookshelf but I’m not actually sure how they secured it to the wall. I just came one day and it was installed! I’m guessing that they screwed into the studs in multiple locations and THEN put on the beadboard with finish nails but I can’t be sure. I’ll try to remember to ask when they come back for finishing.


clipped on: 09.26.2014 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 09.26.2014 at 11:45 am

RE: IKEA Super Hack (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: dutty on 01.15.2014 at 10:55 am in Kitchens Forum

I’m so glad you all enjoyed the pictures… I was really worried I posted too many. And thank you so much for all the kind words. It means so much because no one was sure I could pull this off, including myself, so to see it come together just how I envisioned is such a relief!

The key for me was using Sketchup. It is a powerful FREE 3-D tool and I was able to really see how things would work and go together (YouTube tutorials were my best friend for a few weeks). I was able to see problems in the 3D space from any angle and troubleshoot. I built it first with IKEA boxes (someone already has them in the Sketchup library so I didn’t need to do any work there) and then added the doors after the fact. Here are two drawings so you can get an idea for how detailed it is (in this drawing, I can move the doors away and I’d see the boxes behind):



Once the drawings were done, I went though each section (butler’s pantry, dry bar, refrigerator wall, etc.) and plugged that space into Excel line by line with every part it would need and the IKEA 9 digit corresponding code. That way, when everything was plugged in, I could have Excel tally each 9 digit code and I was able to hand that tally sheet to the IKEA employee making it really simple to place the order. I did have to be super OCD because I live 2 hours from IKEA and couldn’t be driving back and forth! :D

I'll answer everyone's individual questions in an additional post coming shortly.


clipped on: 09.26.2014 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 09.26.2014 at 11:44 am

IKEA Super Hack

posted by: dutty on 01.14.2014 at 08:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Greetings All.

I've been meaning to post forever during this process but I've just been so busy. Anyhoo, I'm building a new home and much to my builder's dismay, I decided to go with IKEA cabinetry and kick his cabinet guy to the curb and boy am I glad I did! I'm truly blown away by what's possible with IKEA, the surprisingly good quality, and the savings we've accumulated. I know when I was making the decision to go with IKEA, it was agonizing and I scoured the boards for advice and pictures so I decided I should probably post here in the hopes that I can help someone else. I apologize if it's too pic heavy but I want to catch up from the beginning so anyone wondering can see the process.

I've been calling the project "hacktastic" because a lot was hacked. I've done my kitchen, dry bar, butler's pantry, laundry, master morning bar and master bath all with Ikea. I drew all the designs in Google Sketchup 3-D software and tweaked for MONTHS! Then we hired a fantastic custom cabinet crew to do all the cutting, assembly, installation, and a few custom pieces. We will be putting in custom wood doors in the kitchen and laundry and stained doors in the master. What really brought me joy was that the cabinet guys said not to second guess my decision because they were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the IKEA boxes and that usually "budget" cabinets are made with 1/2" particle board or plywood but IKEA was 3/4" and thus will be very stable and strong as heck, they were perfectly sized with no weird anomalies, the hinges are Blum and fantastic, and not even one screw was missing! So IKEA was even better than I expected!

I hope this crazy and insane project helps someone out there. It wasn't the easy process of handing it over to a cabinet company but all the work was so very worth it!

Here is ONE of the two storage units filled to the brim with all the boxes:

Here we had cabinets in piles in the areas they go and the assembly table made everything easier:

Things are coming together:

They built a great base to assemble the island (I used a combination of base cabinets and wall cabinets.):

The Kohler Stages 45 set into and spanning a 36" and 18" base:

Double uppers cut down to 18" and set over 39" wall cabinets. We also put base cabinets above the pantries cut down to 18":

Did someone say drawers?:
Pantry cabinets cut down and placed directly on counter:

Butler's Pantry:

Crown, fascia, custom arches, drawers, and custom bookshelf with adjustable shelves! ☺:



Laundry room pantries with space for bench with back and hooks:

Laundry room cleaning pantry with cubby for ironing board (a door will span the full distance):


Edited to fix the link to this last pic:

This post was edited by dutty on Tue, Jan 14, 14 at 20:13


clipped on: 09.26.2014 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 09.26.2014 at 11:43 am

RE: Our solution to the giant window in our shower. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: xxxxOldTimeCarpenter on 05.26.2013 at 06:39 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's the tried and true solution we have used for years with nary a problem:

Replace the existing wood window with a look-alike vinyl replacement window. Get a good one with metal reinforcement, double glazed. Avoid those with exposed steel mechanisms, they will rust. You local window guy can help you choose the right window.

The glass will need to be tempered. Building codes do not allow untempered glass in or even hear a shower, so your current window is illegal -- and dangerous.

Replace the existing wood trim with Azek or equivalent cellular PVC trim.

Run tile up and over the existing sill to butt against the vinyl frame of the replacement window. OR, replace the existing sill with more PVC cellular Azek trim.

Caulk all seams with a good microbe-resistant bath and tile caulk.

In 20 years, we have never had a call back on one of these installations.

Beautiful bathroom, by the way. We are big fans of period-correct remodeling. In fact, it's all we do.

For more on remodeling Victorian houses, follow the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Remodeling Victorian Houses


clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 06:07 pm

RE: Window in shower (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: OldTimeCarpenter1 on 09.27.2013 at 10:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

The traditional solution is to replace the window with glass block, but this can be tricky since often the opening needs to be either enlarged or reduced to accommodate the fixed dimensions of the block.

Our solution is to replace any wood or steel window with a good (emphasis on the "good" -- most vinyl windows are not so good) vinyl window. We match the look of the original windows, so the substitution is not obvious. Vinyl is not affected by moisture, and windows are designed so that any water that gets behind the sash will just drain outside.

It is important that the window opening be completely waterproofed before the window is installed. We use kerdi cloth, a product made for waterproofing showers as a water barrier. It works well. Other manufacturers now make a similar product. Using this method, the chance of water getting any place it should not be is very minimal. You will need to add a little wood to the bottom of your window opening to slope it slightly into the shower. This prevents water from just sitting on the window sill where it might cause problems.

Once the tile is installed, the juncture between the tile and window is caulked with a good polyurethane caulk for maximum flexibility at the joint. This should be inspected yearly and replaced every 3-5 years.

We have been doing this for 10 years, and have never had a problem.


clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 06:03 pm

RE: I think I love these pendants. Is there an affordable knock- (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: mtnrdredux on 04.03.2011 at 07:50 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank rmkitchen, I love the site too. When i first came across it, the prices seemed so reasonable that I was a little skeptical. But I have been quite happy with the quality, and shipping was not bad. And what I really like is that they have stuff I didn't see anywhere else. Much of it is from a company called Chehoma. I looked high and low for someone local who carries Chehoma but got nowhere. When I had to call Deco et cie with a question, I even got to use some of my high school French.

I did see the wire cage fixture, the whacky one with the birds, at ABC Carpet in NYC, for more than twice what I paid. I have that one in my 8yr old DD's room, and she is in love with it.

I bought and can vouch for:
Suspension NIckel - mudroom,
Suspenion poesie - one over each sink in my girls' bath
Suspension desir - guest room
Lustre voliere demi grande - DD2 bedroom
Lustre brindelle 4 lumieres - over my tub, or so i thought
Applique crenalieme - DS bedroom
Applique josephine - guest room
Applique projecteur nickel - DS bathroom

I inquired in advance about which ones would work in the US. I think I only rewired the last one. It was maybe $30 to rewire.

Here are some of the other sources I have used and been happy with:

Il Fanale. Italian products imported by Country Gear of Southampton, NY. SImple lines but a bit unusual. I bought my kitchen and breakfast room pendants there and also fixtures for a bathroom. Prices quite reasonable.

Skinflint UK - If you like the industrial look, they have really cool things. I bought some old ship bulkhead lights, french darkroom lights, real cargo lights, etc. Again, pretty good prices, and he will rewire them for the US. Do note though, that some of these items are very heavy and you may need to reinforce your ceiling to hang them. You may also find that the amount of light they give once rewired is insufficient. The prices are good value for what you are buying, IMHO, but not as inexpensive as Deco et Cie or Il fanale, above.

The last one is the budget buster, but oooh they have nice stuff. I bought two of the Chisholm Hall for our entry hall. I also am having them copy a fixture for me.

PS CALI WENDY - Deco et cie has a sconce like those lights you liked that sold

Here is a link that might be useful: cali wendy - sconce for you


clipped on: 04.03.2011 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 04.03.2011 at 11:27 am

RE: Using Fabric as Wallpaper (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chijim on 11.05.2010 at 12:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum

On HGTV's Sarah's Farmhouse show, she sent fabric out to be paper backed and turned in wallpaper for the DR.

Here was the source she used and it wasn't very $$ from what I remember.

paper backing of wall fabric
Custom Laminations
932 Market St., Paterson NJ., 07509-2066


clipped on: 11.05.2010 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2011 at 01:40 am

From mid centurty ugly to my dream bathroom 95% done

posted by: jenskitchen on 12.30.2010 at 03:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are almost done with our bathroom renovation. I'm too excited about it to wait for the finishing touches before I post it. Still to come is a mirror with 1" bevel to be installed in vanity, frameless glass to be installed in shower and baseboard heat cover being made. Thank you for all of your help during my many mini meltdowns.

We went from this...


There was one electrical outlet in the hole bathroom and it was in the medicine cabinet.


We closed off this door and moved the shower to that side.

So here is our new vanity...


Our new shower

We will put white wood blinds on the window and a cover for the heater


Here are the details:

Shower fixtures, towel bars: Restoration Hardware Asbury
Floor and shower walls: 12x12 honed carrara tiles set in a running bond pattern with delorean gray grout
Floor in shower: Cobsa thin basketweave
Light: Landmark Lighting
Vanity: Custom built
Makeup Mirror: Kimball Young hardwired
Paint: Trim and vanity is Glacier White and walls and ceiling is Stonington Gray


clipped on: 01.03.2011 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 01.03.2011 at 11:07 am

Fridge (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: redroze on 08.14.2009 at 04:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do you think there's a fridge hidden behind those mirrored leaded glass doors, the dark stained ones? That's an amazing idea for panelling a fridge, if it is one. You can glimpse yourself everytime you head there for a snack. ;-)


clipped on: 08.16.2009 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2009 at 01:28 pm

RE: damask wallpaper stencil? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fauxchick56 on 03.21.2009 at 04:40 pm in Home Decorating Forum

budge1: I did a damask stencil in my DR, but only on one wall ( which I usually don't like), but it was very time consuming. I did a glazed strie first. I then used a darker color through the stencil. Next, I went back and moved the stencil about 1/8", using a lighter color to get the shadowed effect. The stencil was the Allover Fabric Damask Stencil from Stephanie Royal. She has gorgeous stencils. Hope this helps.

DR Damask Stencil

DR Damask Stencil


clipped on: 03.22.2009 at 10:53 am    last updated on: 03.22.2009 at 10:53 am

RE: Need suggestions on how to refinish these twin beds- (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lyban on 01.30.2009 at 01:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

That is a good buy you got for the headboards. I know this is not what you asked but I thought that I would post this photo from my inspiration file. It is a room I love and because I do not have twin beds or a room to decorate right now whenever I hear twin beds mentioned I think of this room.


clipped on: 02.01.2009 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2009 at 12:25 pm

Jockewing & Other Gray Lovers - Pics inc...

posted by: ttodd on 01.29.2009 at 10:38 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hope I spelled Jockewing correctly!

I was thumbing through a back issue of Cottage Living (March 2008) and came across the cottage home of Chaffee Braithwaite (daughter of designer Nancy Braithwaite). She used all grays and I thought that it gave some good gray recommendations as well as color descriptions. When I couldn't locate the article on-line I took some pics of the MBR & bath for you all as well as the color recs.

Enjoy - hope it helps someone in the eternal quest for the right gray!


The article stated that 'Nancy turns again and again to these shades all by Benjamin Moore', I got the sample colors from

Revere Pewter 'It's a taupey gary that I use all of the time':


Wickham Gray 'This one has a bit of yellow':


Whitestone 'I like that it has touches of blue':


Cement Gray 'Warm tones of pink make this color really beautiful':


For those who want to know ~ the bedroom walls are Rubidoux and trim is Zephyr Hills by Pratt and Lambert:



Zephyr Hills:


Bathroom trim is Glacier Sand also by PL and floor and wall tiles are from Renaissance Tile and Bath 404-231-9203 and

Glacier Sand:


Luscious ain't it?


clipped on: 01.29.2009 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 01.29.2009 at 10:51 am

Almost Done - Henrybuilt, Caesarstone, Bluestar, Freedom

posted by: billyc on 04.27.2008 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

The kitchen in our new house is just about done - we're just waiting for the backsplash to be installed. Henrybuilt kitchens pop up on this forum on occasion, and we just wanted to show a (nearly) finished product. We couldn't be happier with the turnout. I'll let the pictures do the talking...

Check out the cool Mockett pop-up outlets...

And here's the backsplash waiting to be installed...

More photos (of the whole house) are at our blog, linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our New Modern House


clipped on: 12.20.2008 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2008 at 01:45 pm

RE: Anybody have orange wall color? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: auntjen on 11.14.2008 at 11:47 am in Home Decorating Forum

Ooooooooh, I love the color orange! Although I don't have a photo on the computer I'm presently working on of my my den, it's painted in Sherwin Williams Tigereye, which looks like this:


clipped on: 11.15.2008 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2008 at 04:05 pm

RE: LOOKING for: Amazing Cookie recipe...fancy cookies (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Ann_T on 10.14.2003 at 09:42 am in Dessert Exchange Forum

Here are a few that usually make it on to my cookie platters at Christmas.


Home Cookin 4.9 Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table


This is my favourite Shortbread cookie. One of those recipes that I have been making for over 25 years. It was a recipe given to my friend Patty by her Grandmother. She remembers it from her childhood.

300 degrees for 45 - 50 minutes
1/2 c butter
pinch salt
pinch baking soda
1/4 c fruit sugar
1 c flour
sugar to dredge
. Mix together Flour, salt and baking soda.

Cream butter and fruit sugar. Add flour mixture and mix well.

Pat firmly into round cake pan. Use tines of fork to make a decorate edge
around the outside of the dough. Now use fork to poke holes all over
surface. (This stops the shortbread from rising up during baking.. Bake in
low oven until just starting to colour. Should not brown.

Remove from oven and sprinkle with fine sugar. Let sit 5 minutes and then
Cut into wedges while still warm. Do not remove shortbread wedges from pan
until cool.


This recipe can be doubled and baked in a rectangle pan, and cut into
fingers rather than wedges.

Home Cookin 4.9 Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

Peanut butter and chocolate cookie Tarts

3/4 cup butter
3/4 cup peanut butter smooth
3/4 cup brown sugar
3/4 cup white sugar
1 egg
1 egg yolk
2 tsp vanilla
2 1/4 cups flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda

Chocolate filling

4 oz semisweet chocolate
2 Tablespoons cocoa
1/3 cup butter
2 cups sifted Icing Sugar
. Cream butter with peanut butter until very smooth. Beat in sugars. Beat in
egg and yolk. Add vanilla. Sift flour with baking soda and mix well. Stir
into butter mixture. Press balls of dough into well buttered mini muffin
tins. Each ball of dough should be about 3/4's the size of the muffin tin -
when you intent the centre it should form the shape of a pudgy little tart

Bake in preheated 350F oven for 15 minutes or until ouside is baked but
inside is still chewy. Do not over bake. Cool five minutes on rack and
then remove from tins. Cool completely.


Combine chocolate, cocoa, milk and butter in small saucepan. Melt over low
heat. Mix until smooth. Cool. Beat in icing sugar to give consistencey of
icing. Pipe about 1 tablespoon of filling into each tart.

Note: YOu can spoon the filling in to the centre, but it looks nicer when

Home Cookin 4.9 Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table - Cookies

Cream Cheese Brandy Cherry Balls.
Source: 1983 Oct/Nov. Entertainment and Recipe Booklet

1/2 Cup marshino cherries, quartered
2 Tablespoons Brandy
1 cup semi sweet chocolate chips
1 cup butterscotch chips
1 package cream cheese
2 cups mini marshmallows
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
2 Cups flaked coconut
. Marinate cherries at least 4 hours or overnite in brandy Melt Chocolate
chips and butterscotch chips and add cream cheese. Stir in cherries,
marshmallows and walnuts and refrigerate until cold enough to roll into
balls. Roll in coconut. Refrigerate. The longer the better. The flavours

Home Cookin 4.9 Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

Crisp Chocolate Truffles

These are really good. Here is a picture of them from the Magazine.


1 jar 7 oz marshmallow cream

2 T butter

1 C semi sweet chocolate chips

2 C Rice Krispies

14 oz bittersweet chocolate
2 Tablespoons vegetable shortening

white chocolate chips.

In heavy saucepan combine marshmallow creme, butter and chocolate chips.
Cook over low heat until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth, stirring
constantly. Remove from heat.

Stir rice Krispies into hot mixture, mixing until thoroughly combined. Drop
mixture by rounded meauring teaspoons onto waxed paper lined cookie sheet.
Shape into round balls and Refrigerate about 1 hour or until firm.

Melt bittersweet chocolate with shortening and dip each chocolate ball in
melted chocolate and place on waxed paper-lined cookie sheet. Melt white
chocolate and place in zip lock bag. Cut tiny hole in corner of bag and
drizzle white chocolate over truffles. Refrigerate until firm.

Place in small candy paper cups.


clipped on: 09.19.2008 at 08:03 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2008 at 08:04 pm

RE: dlm2000 - Your chairs inspired me!!! My craigslist finds! :) (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: dlm2000 on 08.26.2008 at 12:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

A million years ago I belonged to a decorating board at BHG. It was there, that I first 'met' Magnaverde and was introduced to his talents. Below is a picture of a sofa in his home, followed by his instructions on how he painted it. If it had come from almost any other source, I'd never have bothered saving it all these years. I haven't done it yet but I'm sure someday there will be an opportunity to try this technique on something. The mention of Picturesworth at the end is another old, old site. Kinda makes you rethink painted furniture, doesn't it?


Here's the process, as I originally described it on the AOL Decorating Board last year, and where the original post was unearthed from the AOL archives by the lovely and talented HOST HOME DECOR. She's the best.
Forget all that nonsense about teensy bottles of expensive paint medium from the crafts store. You don't need anything more than regular latex semi-gloss paint--and a lot of guts. I found a beautiful Baker Chippendale camelback sofa, with cool curved arms and a fat down cushion, but it was covereed in a hideous glazed chintz in the ugliest colors I ever saw. I found some great yellow wool damask to reupholster with, but it would have cost me $3OOO for the job, so I painted my sofa instead.

Everyone freaked out when I told then the plan, but it worked. I was planning on painting my room dark green, so I decided to go with the red leather look. First, I painted the whole thing with bubblegum pink semigloss latex paint, using the widest foam brush I could find, and brushing it on in long strokes front-to-back and up + down. Think of that as the primer coat. I let it dry 2 days, and sanded it super lightly with fine-grade sandpaper to get rid of the burrs--there were a lot. When I couldn't feel any more sharp things, another coat of paint, spread thin. Dried and sanded again. Then spread--with my hands--a thin coat of raspberry red semi-gloss paint I had deadened a little with brown to make it a little less vivid. Because it was a deep color, there wasn't much white filler in the paint, and it was almost like a glaze or stain, instead of paint, which is just what I wanted anyway. I just smoothed it on, like suntan oil, and worked it into the pink paint. I let it build a little thicker at the back, on the inside of the arms and at the back edge of the loose cushion, so that the paler, thinner red took on an air of wear at the high points. I let it dry 2 days, then CAREFULLY sanded the few new sharp things, and touched up those spots with my fingers. I let it dry 2 days, then waxed the whole thing with regular paste wax. After it was dry, I polished with a soft cloth, then dusted with talcum, and vacuumed it all off. It was a little stiff the first few days, but now it not only looks like red leather, it feels like it.

This worked great on glazed chintz, and probably would work on any smooth fabric, except that some may have more burrs and therefore require more sanding, but I wouldn't try it on anything with a heavy texture. And no, the paint doesn't come off. And it's not stiff, either. Think about it--it's latex paint, and essentially, that's what's in those little bottles of fabric medium.

By the way if anyone finds this topic before he or she finds the picture that shows the finished results, it's over in the PicturesWorth album, probably at the bottom of the pile, in MAGNAVERDE'S SCRAPBOOK. Have fun.


For those who STILL don't think you can do it and who need a little pep talk before you start, go to and look for the link that says 'consult magnaverde'--and I'll talk you through it. It will cost you a few dollars, but of course, my advice is priceless. And besides, I'm cheaper than a new sofa. You can talk to me and then go out for coffee. Good luck.


clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 11:13 pm

Door Vendors (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: shelayne on 07.19.2008 at 01:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Caligirl,

I actually am thinking about going with a different company than the one I was leaning toward. The one I am looking at now is called I got a quote (the day after I e-mailed them, so they are quick)for less than $700, including shipping! This is paint grade wood, but the better woods were not bad at all. This company is out of Texas. I even mixed it up a bit from what they offer on their website, and they gave me a quote for exactly what I stated. They say it takes approximately 9-10 days once they receive your order.

I am going to order a couple of doors from them, but so far I am liking what I am seeing. You really cannot beat $8.99 a square foot!(They also do NOT upcharge for drawer fronts as other companies tend to do.) I inquired about the Pattern B hinge boring, and that was also part of my quote.

The other company was I really liked the doors that I received, but they do not do the hinge drilling I need for the Blum hardware. I asked specifically, and he said it is all done by machine, and they only have the one pattern. Too bad. The nice thing about refacedepot, though, is that you see the cost of your doors immediately. You choose your door style, wood, edge profile, etc., enter the dimensions, and the total price is shown. I liked knowing what I was "getting into".

I noticed that some posters on Ikeafans have used for their doors. They do the specific Pattern B hinge boring, but I do not know of their prices. One poster said their quote was $1000 less than Scherr's and averaged to about $17 per square foot.

HTH! Let me know how it goes! I am excited to see your kitchen! :^)


clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 03:27 pm

RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: florida_mimi on 11.03.2007 at 10:14 am in Kitchens Forum

My husband doesn't pay attention enough to the real questions :)
I'm doing a ditto on what Dixielogs said. Holland Bowl Mill is where we buy our stuff. They carry a huge 28 oz tub.
Another option is what some of the other stoners were doing in another thread. They were mixing 50% mineral oil with 50% bee's wax. I havent tried this yet but it may be a fun and cheaper alternative. You may be able to find the bee's wax in bulk on eBay and then buy the Mineral oil in bulk from STE Oil Company Inc. We order the Crystal Plus Oil 70FG. It's the food grade mineral oil in a thinner viscosity so it's easier to apply. I know they sell it by the gallon and so on. We buy it by the drum. Hope this helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: STE Mineral Oil


clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 08:46 pm

RE: Soapstone is in! (pics) (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: staticfritz on 02.12.2008 at 10:59 am in Kitchens Forum

I bough a gallon of that ultra light mineral oil from STE (really nice stuff, thin as water!) and 2 lbs of triple filtered white acacia beeswax on ebay (total cost <$35)

mixed them together on the stove on very very low heat, ~2/3 oil, 1/3 beeswax. when cool, it has the consistency of butter that's been left at room temperature. it's really easy to spread and give an awesome finish to the stone and my wood butcherblock and cutting boards

i store it in a plastic fliptop under the sink

Here is a link that might be useful: acacia beeswax


clipped on: 02.13.2008 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2008 at 08:45 pm

RE: Our Kitten is Missing -- How to Process? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: laurief on 01.30.2008 at 01:12 am in Pets Forum

I know how terrified you are right now, but you need to pull yourself together because there is much you can do to find Dashiell. She may be in the house or out of the house. I'll cover both bases.

1) Talk to every single one of the contractors who was working in your house since the last time you remember seeing Dashiell. Find out exactly where they were working and what they were doing. Did anyone open or close an access point to the interior of the walls, floor, or ceiling? Insulating? Sheetrocking? Were any old cabinets or other potential hidey holes (including large tool boxes, furniture boxes, or appliance boxes) removed from the house?

2) Open every door, cabinet, and drawer in the house. Use flashlights to search the back of every cabinet, cupboard, and closet.

3) Cats can get through amazingly small holes, so check for access points to walls (larger outlet holes), ceilings (light fixture holes), and floors (heating or AC ducts).

4) Check under and inside furniture.

1) Place a soiled litterbox and a piece or two of your dirty laundry outside each of your exterior doors. The familiar scents will help keep Dashiell close to home.

2) Search for her after dark with a flashlight. Cats are often easier to locate in the dark because a flashlight will illuminate their eyes.

3) In the morning, call all area vets, shelters, rescues, pounds, and your local law enforcement and file lost cat reports with everyone. Make up a flyer with Dashiell's photo (if possible), and distribute them to all of your neighbors, along with everyone else I just mentioned. Post flyers all over your neighborhood and at grocery stores, laundromats, convenience stores, etc. Take out a lost pet ad in your local newspaper.

4) Personally visit all area shelters, rescues, and pounds daily. DO NOT rely on telephone contacts with these facilities. You MUST visit IN PERSON regularly to check and make sure Dashiell hasn't been picked up or turned in.

5) Ask your neighbors if you can check their garages and garden sheds, or better yet, ask if they'd be willing to crack the doors open on their outbuildings so that Dashiell can get in or out, as the case may be.

6) Borrow, rent, or buy and live trap and set it outside your house after dark at night. Bait it with very warm, very smelly, fish-flavored canned cat food. If Dashiell is outside, she is probably very frightened and may not come to you even if she sees and hears you looking for her. A live trap is your best bet of capturing her. She'll be more likely to come out of hiding late at night after everyone has gone to bed and the neighborhood is quiet.

I'll post more suggestions as I think of them, but please don't give up hope. Dashiell isn't gone. She's just out of sight. I'd bet she's very nearby, either inside or outside. Keep a level head and keep looking.

Sending "come out, come out, wherever you are" vibes to Dashiell.



clipped on: 01.30.2008 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2008 at 10:42 pm

RE: Your ideas about how to arrange this built-in bookcase, pleas (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: tryin2grow on 01.07.2008 at 06:39 am in Home Decorating Forum

Here's a pic I just ran across. If I find another, I'll post.

*I* would use the same moulding feature that is above the curtains (assuming it's wood-but even if not) to enclose the top of the bookcase. See how it's done in this pic. You can have a contemporary style home and still use moulding. I still say the prob is with the cases themselves. They look wimpy instead of being part of a cohesive flowing wall.



mushroom trim / bookcase color
clipped on: 01.19.2008 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2008 at 02:32 pm

RE: Full granite backsplash and Electrical Outlets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cloud_swift on 01.06.2008 at 05:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't agree with what jamesk said about it being 2cm. Usually, it will be the same thickness as your counter granite because it comes off the same slabs. 2 cm stone might be cheaper than 3 cm but if the counters are going to be 3 cm, it might be difficult to find a color match and impossible to find a grain match in a 2 cm slab.

Ours is 2 cm because that is what our counters are (and what most stone is around here).

gneegirl, our electrical boxes were installed as kevin described. Our granite fabricator cut the holes for the outlets and switches when he came to install the backsplash. The cutting was done in our back yard. I think our outlet boxes are also a kind that lets the box depth be adjusted with a couple of screws though that isn't essential.

We got Lutron outlets and switches in a color that went well with our granite (black but the Lutron "satin" black is less shiny than the ones at the hardware store - close to a matte). We splurged and got granite wall plates made from some of our left over granite by Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. One end of the backsplash is next to our back door and has a bank of six switches for various internal and external lights so the granite wall plates make a difference.

We are quite happy with the results: Photobucket

Here is how it looked before the granite wall plates arrived:

Here is a link that might be useful: Columbia Gorge Stoneworks


clipped on: 01.07.2008 at 12:47 am    last updated on: 01.07.2008 at 12:47 am

RE: help me find chicken wire glass panels! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rmkitchen on 10.31.2007 at 04:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if this site will be at all helpful: it's brass chicken wire (not in glass) which you can tuck in between glass. ???


clipped on: 12.22.2007 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 12.22.2007 at 03:53 pm

RE: Almost Finished White Kitchen (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: abd1 on 12.02.2007 at 05:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the compliments. Its our first renovation project we've done and we pretty much GC'd it ourselves. We're very happy with it and proud of it as well. Here's a list of the materials:

Cabinets -- Ikea; Stat door. We went back and forth on these, but once we priced them out it was a no brainer. We saved thousands and we love them. The drawers fully extend and use blumotion glides that self close. They're a great bargain, and if we ever get tired of the style its a minimal investment to replace the doors and cover panels.

Counters -- Kashmir White granite. This was one of the things we were able to do because of the money we saved on the cabinets. Its hard to photograph the granite, but we love it because of the "flowiness" of the bluish-grey graining and how light it is. Originally we were going to go with black or something dark but we thought it looked too heavy and institutional.

Backsplash -- Susan Jablon Mosaics ( beach subway glass. I think the color is blue grey sky or something like that. We love these and love Susan's stuff. We were going to make a blend, but we thought it may look too busy with the granite. We may use her tile again when we redo the bathrooms.

Sink -- Blanco. I really wanted to use, and bought, a Ticor but it didn't fit by about 1/8". We love the big single bowl.

Faucet -- Belle Forte. I know nothing about the brand but we wanted a single hole, single handle, pullout faucet and it was only about $200 online. So far so good. We also got a Waste King 3/4hp disposal, which is one of my favotite additions because it absolutely liquifies anything in 2-3 seconds.

Range -- Bluestar 30" RCS model. Again, because of going with the Ikea cabinets I was able to upgrade to this range and I absolutely love it. I love to cook and this range is awesome. I'll be putting up a more in depth write up soon in the appliances forum, but if you want a cooking machine go with a Bluestar.

Dishwasher -- Bosch shx46a05uc. Again, we went with Bosch after deciding on the Ikea cabinets and we love it so far. Very quiet, looks great, and cleans great. We now just scrape off the plates and put them in and they come out sparkling. It is a little smaller inside but the fold down tines really make loading it easy and flexible. The worst thing is the small silverware basket, but we were able to have 12 people here for Thanksgiving and it wasn't an issue when cleaning up.

We still have some more finishing details to do, and I'll post the final pics once its done.


small glass subway tile link
clipped on: 12.02.2007 at 05:34 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2007 at 05:35 pm

RE: Under Cabinet Lights - Location (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: weed30 on 11.29.2007 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

frankie1962 - to resize an image, use the following code:

&lt;img height=400 width=600 src=Insert your URL here&gt;

So yours would be:

&lt;img height=400 width=600 src=;

The result is this:


clipped on: 11.29.2007 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2007 at 10:41 pm

RE: Missing color? Pratt and Lambert (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: leestreet on 08.31.2007 at 03:16 pm in Paint Forum

A friend sent me this very cool website:

According to them, Benjamin Moore silver crest is 94% match. I picked it up today and it looks beautiful.


paint match website
clipped on: 10.27.2007 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2007 at 10:58 pm

How would you work with this fabirc?

posted by: pinegrove on 10.13.2007 at 08:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I found this paisley fabric and I am highly considering it for my little girl's nursery. There are coordinating fabrics to go with it as well, thuogh this will make the biggest impact. Originally I was going to do a pink and green room with a chair rail, but this fabric has me thinking that yellow may be a pretty background for this fabric, along with other pink, green and white accents.

The current paint colors I am looking at are C2 colors: Kiwi (green), Don Ceaser (pink), and Chelsea (yellow).

Has anyone ever seen or worked with this fabric before? It seems to be readily available.

If so, what paint colors did you use? If not, by looking at this, which way would you go in terms of wall color?

Much appreciation,


Here is a link that might be useful: Gypsy Paisley Fabric


fabric link
clipped on: 10.27.2007 at 01:39 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2007 at 01:39 pm

Checklist For Granite Installation?

posted by: divastyle on 07.11.2007 at 09:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I went through some of the past posts and have attempted to put together a checklist for granite installation. Here's what I have :).

Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
Make sure that the granite has been sealed
Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
Make sure that the top drawers open

Any other things to add?


clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:27 pm

RE: Thermador Freedom Freezer--Can't Get Ice Working (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jakvis on 10.13.2007 at 12:52 pm in Appliances Forum

You didn't say which models you have but I've installed a few of these.
1. you need to see the word ice in the control display.
2. your bucket needs to be locked in place and fully pushed back.
3. most Icemakers won't produce ice until the Freezer has been running several hours. I usually tell my customers that they wont see ice until 12+ hours have passed. The Freezer need to get cold enough for ice and the icemaker needs to cycle a couple times before water gets to it.
4. the Freedoms seem to make their fastest ice production when the freezer is set for -4F. At least thats what their techline told me.
5. Is the water actually turned on?
6. Is the filter fully turned and locked into place? I have seen a couple units where the filter was not fully turned to lock and that shuts the water off.

I hope this helps


clipped on: 10.14.2007 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2007 at 06:53 pm