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Monogram oven in! 1st impression, a few ?s, and pics (long)

posted by: rhome410 on 11.23.2009 at 08:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those of you interested in an update:

My beautiful Monogram ZET2PMSS is in and working! Here is the evolution of my kitchen wall:

1st F&P (bad interior porcelain):

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2nd F&P (troublesome controls and bad interior porcelain):

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3rd time's a charm? Monogram:

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I feel that I have gained some good features (DH asks, "Why don't all ovens have these things?"), but also observe some minor negatives I think Monogram could do better.

Positives:

- GREAT racks! Install so easily, work easily, full extension

- Separate timers for each oven, and clock and all 3 timers can be seen at once

- QUIET! We didn't realize our F&P convection fans were loud until we turned this oven on

- Timer volume control

- Appearance...Nice look and especially nice where it installs against the cabinet...angles back and meets the sides so nicely. The 2nd F&P kind of stuck out and showed a black side all along.

- Seemed to bake nicely on the bread I made today.

Negatives:

- Far fewer rack placement options. My first F&P had 13 possible positions, and the 2nd had 8. Now I have 5, and none quite seem the same as the ones I typically used in the F&Ps. Seems like only the bottom 2 positions are low enough for the 'center of the oven baking' that I'm used to. Just something to adjust to, I think.

- The racks take up a lot of room, so it's necessary to store extra racks (for instance, you can't bake bread with them all in, because the bread would be crowded) and there isn't much room between racks for multi-rack baking of anything that isn't shallow or might rise. Not a huge deal, but it decreases 'usable space' and you need room to store the racks.

- The manual is not very helpful. If you want a chart to advise you on using convection vs regular bake, or if you want guidance on how to position the probe in your turkey, this is not the manual for you. You can find baking info for commercially made frozen pies, but not homemade bread. ;-)

- The timer beep sounds EXACTLY like our dishwashers (same tone and timing), so I will have to get used to jumping up to that sound instead of ignoring it. Not Monogram's fault, obviously.

- Broiler pan is lightweight and rough/sharp on the edges. (seems cheap) I'm glad to have my 2 F&P sets that are heavy and nice...More suitable to the ovens' price range and quality. No cookie sheets included. F&P had them...Do others?

Questions/concerns:

- Can't read anywhere that the convection roast works as it did in the F&P, where it started at a searing temp and automatically turned down after 10 minutes. If not, then is there a point to using 'convection roast?'

- Temperature? If I set the oven for a certain temperature, it shows me the real-time temp until preheated, then shows the set temp...Like it should. But what bothers me is that when I try turning the temperature up and it goes back to 'real temp' it is well below the set temp. I had the top oven at 450, then turned it to 475 to show my daughter something...The 'real temp' showed 400 instead of the 450 it was supposed to have been at for the previous 2 hours, then worked it's way up. When I had the bottom oven at 425 convection roast for a turkey (preheated and turkey in for over a half hour), When I turned the temp down for the turkey to finish at 325, the 'real temp said the oven was 365. Weird? OK or a problem, do you think?

- When I ran both ovens at 450 this morning to bake away the 'new,' the top door stayed quite cool, while the bottom oven door was HOT. Something we'll have to be aware of.

:-)

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clipped on: 11.29.2009 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2009 at 09:19 pm

RE: All-Clad Exterior Types... differences?? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: dbyw on 07.02.2009 at 01:11 pm in Cookware Forum

I know one of the factory sales reps for All-Clad and have spoken to him a number of times regarding the differences. They have done internal testing numerous times, and while the stainless collection is far and away their best-selling line, MC2 and LTD are the benchmark in performance in the All-Clad collection. They cannot be beat. I think the cutaways are a little bit deceiving in that they don't show the overall measurement (thickness of the pan). So while they look proportionately the same, if you hold a SS piece next to an MC2 piece, you will clearly see that the MC2 is hands down thicker. This added mass will eliminate hot-spots and scorching. Also, he said that the only reason the SS line is thinner is because the out-layer of SS will start to warp, crack and not bond correctly if the inner core is too thick. So to answer your questions, if you want the best "performing" All-Clad line, its the MC2 or LTD. If you want shiny cookware, go for the SS. Note - look around for reviews on the SS line and you'll see that people have had issues with it warping. Though this is covered under warranty, it just shows that you might encounter scorching, hot spots. Side note I really haven't seen (or experienced) any bad reviews of MC2. I've had it for 12 years by the way. Happy shopping!

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clipped on: 07.02.2009 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2009 at 11:16 pm

RE: Grainlady- Cracked grain question (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: grainlady on 02.15.2009 at 08:43 pm in Cooking Forum

rhome410 -

If I need 1/2-3/4 c. cracked grain to add to my bread recipe, it doesn't take very much of 5-10 kinds of grain to achieve that amount, and I normally mill it through the Marga Mulino Flaker Mill - small, easy to use and clean.

The Corona Corn Mill is from Lehman's - many years ago - maybe 10 years. You can only use it for coarse milling.

I have a Family Grain Mill (with motor). It's my back-up mill, should I need a manual-style mill that does a fairly good job on flour (but you have to run it through the mill twice). I got it through Wilderness Family Naturals when they had a special on it several years ago. I also get coconut flour, coconut oil, coconut, and several things from them. I don't think they carry mills anymore.

I had a Whisper Mill (now goes by Wonder Mill) for over 16 years - purchased in a Kitchen Store 30-minutes down the road from here. It died recently after giving great service for many years. Now I use a Nutrimill (purchased through Emergency Essentials on a Mother's Day Special).

The Marga Mulino Flaker Mill makes flakes, coarse flour (I use this for a grind similar to simolina for milling durum wheat for pasta/noodles), and corase chopped grain. I got it through Lehman's many years ago. I can use the coarse setting on my Nutrimill for coarse durum flour similar to simolina or for a fine grind of cornmeal.

I must not get as much flour using my mills as you do using your blender. The blender is much faster than a hand-cranked Flaker Mill.

No one mill can do everything I need done. I've milled flour for over 20 years and have had good, bad, and ugly mills....and am still learning.

-Grainlady

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clipped on: 03.15.2009 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2009 at 10:56 pm

RE: Grainlady- Cracked grain question (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: grainlady on 02.17.2009 at 04:55 pm in Cooking Forum

There are just so many different ways to make multi-grain breads, and several different bread-making methods to consider. The neat thing about bread is that it isn't just one thing...

I'd also have to ecco rhome410 about milling your own grains/seeds/beans if you are this interested in the healthy aspect of it. It's THE only way to get the most available nutrition. It will also save you a lot of money - especially if you make all your breads - which I do. The price of grains is typically much lower than purchasing the flours.

Breadmaking is full of little "rules", along with all the exceptions to the "rules". Knowing the rules will help you troubleshoot the old question, "WHAT HAPPENED?". In fact, "Artisan Bread in 5-Minutes a Day" is a complete contradiction to generally held bread science.

A general rule: Adding anything sharp (DRY multi-grain cereal blends, nuts, seeds, flakes I mill at home, etc.) at the BEGINNING of mixing/kneading can result in the gluten strands being cut by the these things. As rhome410 said, she uses a sponge method (soaks a portion of the liquid/flour/yeast, so the dry chopped grains soak up hydration during the sponge. Other recipes will have you add hot water to these grain mixtures to soften them. There are ALWAYS options in the world of bread. I like the added "crunch", so I generally add them late in the kneading.

Home-milled flakes are just smashed grains, and they are thicker than commercial old-fashioned oatmeal. Commercial oatmeal is tempered with steam to soften the grain, then it's run through the roller mill. When you make your own flakes you don't temper the grain - you mill it dry. I have a bread recipe that uses steel-cut oats. I'll try to find and post it. You can also make the steel-cut oats into oatmeal and make the recipe I've linked below for Cooked Oatmeal Scones.

When making breads by hand I add the gluten-containing flour to the liquids FIRST, and beat the dickens out of that mixture to develop the gluten while the mixture is still in the bowl (adding flour a little at a time and mixing it thoroughly with a Danish Dough Whisk). Then I'll add any non- or low-gluten flour. They don't require the work that gluten-development in wheat flour does. Non- or low-gluten flours just needs to be incorporated.

Adding oatmeal is great. If the recipe has you add it early in the process, it will be pulvarized and well-incorporated by the time the loaf is done. You'll have little evidence of it, unless you add some to the top of the loaf just before you bake it. If you add too much oatmeal or oat flour, the bread will be moist, doughy and crumbly.

You can also make your own oat flour by running oatmeal through a blender or food processor until it's flour. I make oat flour by milling oat groats. I wouldn't add any more than 20% oat flour to a bread recipe or you'll compromise the texture and crumb.

Different grain flours contribute different textures to breads.

Dough that has rye flour in it is characteristicly sticky. People tend to continue to add flour to overcome the stickiness and often add too much and end up with a dry dough and a "brick" for a loaf of rye bread. I use rye for all kinds of things, not just breads. It's an under-used flour in my books. It works well in baked goods that don't need a lot of gluten development - like quick breads and cookies.

I suspect the "When Pigs Fly" - seven grain and pumpkin seed bread is made mainly with bleached or unbleached bread flour (possibly whole wheat flour) with a portion being either 7-Grain flour, or 7-Grain chopped grain mixture. It comes both ways. Pumpkin seeds can be whole/chopped/pulvarized.

I tend to mill sesame seeds (flax as well) I add to breads. (I add flaxmeal to EVERYTHING!) You don't get any of the nutrition unless they are cracked - either masticating or milling them. It's just easier to mill them to assure they are easy to digest.

Bob's Red Mill has a 10-grain flour available. You have to be careful using these multi-grain/seed/bean flour combinations because they include non-gluten and low-gluten ingredients. You need a major portion of the flour to contain gluten (flour derived from wheat) and only a small percentage to be from non- or low-gluten flours, or the bread won't rise like you are accustomed to when you make white bread.

I don't add WHOLE grains in the form of a wheat berry or an oat groat. They are added either by being milled into flour, coarsely chopped, flakes or sprouts.

I like to add whole amaranth seeds to quick breads as an easy addition. They look like golden poppy seeds and add a lot of great nutrition and crunch. I also add amaranth flour to breads. I mill it in a seed mill. This particular mill does those tiny seeds and oily seeds like poppy seeds, sesame seeds, flax, teeny-tiny Tef and amaranth, etc. I can easily substitute 1/2 c. of the flour in the recipe with 1/2 a cup of amaranth flour without too much trouble or changes in the bread texture. That's another way to get multi-grain breads.

I use quinoa in cooking, not baking. Quinoa is coated with saponin and you have to wash it very well before using it or it's bitter-tasting. So if you want to mill it into flour you have to wash it and then dry it before you mill it. Not worth the bother in my books. You chance messing your mill up if the grain isn't completely dry when you mill it. Lots of cooked cereals, like cooked quinoa, can be added to bread recipes.

I'd also suggest following recipes that include multiple grain mixtures or grain flours in them, before striking out on your own and making your own substitutions.

I'd suggest as much studying as you do baking. You can probably get these books at your local library, or have them get them through Inter-Library Loan.

- The first 100 pages of "CookWise" by Shirley O. Corriher. That covers a lot of what you need to know about making bread in general.

- "The Splendid Grain" by Rebecca Wood. It explains grains and how they are used. For instance, you can make your own rice flour in a coffee/spice mill, but which rice is best for baking? Short- and medium-grain rice are best for baking. Long-grain rice is best for dredging or thickening. Short- and medium-grain rice flour can be used for dredging/thickening, as well as baking.

-"The Pleasure of Whole-Grain Breads" - by Beth Hensperger

Other little-known rules, like adding ascorbic acid powder to recipes for yeast bread that contain whole wheat flour or wheat germ. Ascorbic acid powder counteracts the negative effects of Glutathione (found in the wheat germ), which breaks the gluten bonds - which accounts for so many short-squatty loaves of 100% whole wheat bread. Ascorbic acid (1/8-t. per loaf) helps prevent gluten bonds from breaking down, helps sustain the leavening during baking (more oven spring), and helps promote yeast growth.

I've been studying bread science, milling, and grains for years, and am still learning all the time. Welcome to the club...

-Grainlady

Here is a link that might be useful: COOKED Oatmeal Scones

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clipped on: 03.15.2009 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2009 at 10:52 pm

RE: Annie's Salsa and Habenero Gold and other awesome recipes (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: annie1992 on 01.07.2009 at 01:44 pm in Cooking Forum

shaun, I canned for years with a big stock pot with a dish towel in the bottom and some tongs. I gotta tell you, though, that a jar lifter is way easier!

All you need is a pot big enough to put jars in it and cover them by at least an inch. You need something to keep the jars right off the bottom of the pot. Some people use an old cake rack, some wire those canning rings together, some fold up an old dishtowel (which will float up and you have to set the jars on it, LOL).

Or you can buy a canning kit which will have a big pot with a rack. I have Grandma's old one, so it's at least 40 years old and still works.

To make jam and salsa you don't need a pressure canner, just a big pot of boiling water, some jars and lids, and something to take them out of the water with.

If you're really interested in getting into canning, I'd suggest spending an extra $6 and buying the newest Ball Blue Book, but any information regarding time and procedure is available free at the NCHFP site linked above.

Or send me an email, I'd be happy to help! I'm like a pusher, you know, happy to get other people hooked! LOL

Annie

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clipped on: 01.22.2009 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2009 at 05:56 pm

RE: Annie's Salsa and Habenero Gold and other awesome recipes (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mustangs on 11.15.2008 at 09:09 pm in Cooking Forum

Welcome!

Habanero Gold Jelly from Annie

1/3 cup finely sliced dried apricots
3/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1/4 cup finely diced sweet red pepper
1/4 cup finely diced habanero peppers, including seeds OR 1/4 cup diced, combined jalapeno and Scotch Bonnet peppers
3 cups granulated sugar
1 pouch Bernardin liquid pectin or Certo

Cut apricots into 1/8 inch slices. Measure into a large deep stainless steel saucepan with vinegar; let stand 4 hours. Individually, cut onion and seeded peppers into 1/8 inch slices; cut slices into 1/4 inch dice. Measure each ingredient; add to apricots. Stir in sugar.

Over high heat, bring to a full roiling boil. Stirring constantly, boil hard
1 minute. Remove from heat. Immediately stir in pectin, mixing well.

Pour jelly into hot jar, dividing solids equally among jars and filling each jar to within 1/4 inch of top rim. Wipe rims. Apply lids.

Process 10 minutes in BWB. Cool upright, until lids pop down, about 30 minutes. When lids are concave but the jelly is still hot, carefully grasp jar without disturbing lid and invert, twist, or rotate each jar to distribute solids throughout jelly. The jar can be inverted temporarily but do not allow it to stand upside-down for prolonged periods.

Repeat as necessary during the cooling/setting time, until solids remain suspended in the jelly.

ANNIES SALSA
8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2 cups chopped onion
1 cups chopped green pepper
3 seeded chopped jalapenos
6 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup vinegar-Use 1 cup if you use hot water bath
16 oz. tomato sauce
16 oz tomato paste

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Pour into hot jars, process at 10 lbs of pressure for 30 minutes for pints.
Makes 6 pints

NOTES:

increase the vinegar to 1 cup and process pints or half pints in a boiling water bath for 20 minutes.
clipped on: 11.17.2008 at 04:59 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2008 at 05:01 pm

Ikea fans link (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: crl_ on 07.29.2007 at 11:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I think this is the link someone was asking for. It is to a 4-inch broom closet pull-out--made modifying IKEA cabinetry. (Ikeanfans is one of the most entertaining websites I've ever seen, just because I'm amazed at how creative people are with IKEA stuff.)

Catherine

Here is a link that might be useful: Ikeafans 4-inch pull-out broom closet modification

NOTES:

See link
clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 03:09 am    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 03:09 am

canning instructions for mincemeat (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: Loralee on 04.01.2003 at 11:01 pm in Dessert Exchange Forum

12 pt. chopped apples
12 pt. chopped green tomatoes
24 tsp cinnamon
12 tsp allspice, cloves, salt
10 cups suet (2#)
8# raisins
12 cups sugar
3 cups apple cider vinegar
6 lemons
core and remove seeds from the apples the lemons you can pick out when you grind them up. I use a food grinder to grind all the the apples tomatoes and lemons. Mix all together and simmer until thick and hot. Pack into clean jars and process in boiling water bath for 30 minutes. I don't remember how much this makes but I will be making a smaller amount this fall since I will not be canning any for my mother. She used lots and I mainly use it for the holidays. The recipe can easily be cut down. Loralee

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clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 10:47 am

RE: Help! I Forgot to Mention (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: readinglady on 08.04.2008 at 01:45 pm in Cooking Forum

I forgot to mention you can thicken your sauce more quickly for a fresher flavor and reduced cooking time by bringing the prepped tomatoes to a hard simmer until juice has been exuded. Pour off a good amount of the juice (carefully!) and then continue cooking the pulp down.

If you want to, you can also BWB the poured off juice to add to soups.

Carol

NOTES:

for spagh sauce
clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 10:25 am

RE: Help! Canned spaghetti sauce from my own tomatoes? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: lindac on 08.03.2008 at 03:28 pm in Cooking Forum

Hey Sheshe!
It's not rocket science....I do pretty what sharon/chase does..dunk the tomatoes in a pot of boiling water, slip the skins and either pull apart with my fingers or rough cut with a knife. Save all that lovely juice!
Sauce.....for about 3 a 3 gallon bucket of garden tomatoes.
Chop a good big onion and a good big pepper.
Sautee in about 2 or 3 T of olive oil....who cares about calories, we're going for taste here!
While that is slowly sauteeing, peel and chiop 3 or 4 cloves of garlic,
Also while that is slowly sauteeing, be blanching your tomatoes, and add them to the pot as you go.
Add 4 or 5 sprigs of fresh parsley, chopped, about 8 big fresh basil leaves and about 2 Tablespoons of chopped fresh oregano leaves.
Add 1 rounded teaspoon of salt, a glass of dry red wine...about 4 oz.. and I like to add some sweet paprika...or ground mild hatch chilis....about 3/4 teaspoon full...
Simmer....without a lid....stirring about every 30 minutes, more often as it gets thicker, taste as you go....and you may need to add some red wine vinegar....depending on the ripeness of your tomatoes....if they are very ripe it will need a bit os "zing".
Some people put celery and carrots in their sauce....I don't, but if you want to experiment a bit....try adding a generous pinch of cinnamon....or some crushed fennel seeds....or a few cumin seeds.
But not all in the same batch!!
Have fun!
Linda C

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clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 10:23 am    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 10:24 am

RE: Walk-in pantry -- can I see yours? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 05.24.2008 at 09:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

First off, if you want to see a really gorgeous pantry, check out SharB's pantry--it even has a chandelier. I'm using hers as my inspiration. The following information comes, I think, from SharB as well:

My pantry measures 4 feet wide by 5 feet deep. Starting at the top:

  • 18" top shelf to ceiling (hings I don't need often or are lightweight.)

  • 15" to next shelf (cereal boxes, etc.)

  • 10" to next (canned goods, etc.)

  • 10" to next (canned goods, etc.)

  • 16" to next (small appliances)

  • 20" from bottom shelf to floor (extra waters, heavy items)

  • I made the depth of the back shelf and the right side 12".

  • The left side is 6" and holds my husbands hot sauces and other small items.

SharB's pantry is pictured in this thread: I have a pantry suggestion... Ventilate!

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Anyone willing to share the inside of their pantry?

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clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 11:18 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2008 at 01:59 pm

OT -- on chickens -- basic FAQs

posted by: bluekitobsessed on 08.11.2008 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Because every time I post a chickens comment/pic I get a question or two, here's a primer for amateur, suburban, backyard chicken farmers.
1. I have 2 chickens that I raised from day-old chicks. I used to have 3, and recommend 3 as a good number (they're social animals, don't do well alone). Chickens are legal in many places, such as Los Angeles, CA. Many cities have limits on roosters, and I wouldn't get a rooster out of sheer consideration for neighbors.
2. Raising chickens from chicks: They need to be hot. I kept them in an old guinea pig cage (24" x 12" x 12"?) with two hot incandescent desk lamps on them 24/7 until they were about 6 weeks old. I kept their food & water in small bowls that used to hold guinea pig food. When they were about 6 weeks old I started putting them in the back yard for an hour or two at a time. Obviously you can buy special incubators, heat lamps, & such, but my low tech/low cost solution worked fine.
3. Basic care these days: I bought them a coop for chickens, which I keep on my narrow side yard. I've seen people use old dog houses, sheds, rabbit hutches, or play houses, or make their own. They're free to roam about 6 hours a day, which is my choice. They must have sunlight to lay eggs. They want to roost (go back to their home) at night, when predators come out, so their cage has a latch. I give them old corn cobs (the chicken equivalent of a steak bone), tomato centers, other veggies & fruit, and fight with them over who gets first dibs in my vegetable garden. They keep my snails & slugs under control :)
4. Fresh eggs every day! They started laying at 6 months. They will decrease egg laying during winter when the days are shorter (commercial farmers give them artificial light). My two are 2 years old and I'm still getting eggs 6x/week from each of them. Older hens will apparently lay less. Hens who have never met a rooster will lay unfertilized eggs just like supermarket eggs. Cost: $15/feed lasts about 3-4 months (plus chicks, which cost $3 each), compared to $2/dozen for commercial eggs. Fresh eggs compare to supermarket eggs as backyard tomatoes do to supermarket tomatoes.
5. I have a Rhode Island Red (a basic breed), who lays brown eggs, and an Araucana/Ameraucana, who lays green eggs (kids go crazy for these). I had an Australorps but a hawk carried her off :( My dog has accepted that they are part of the family, not part of his meal. I try to keep the chickens out of the front yard because neighbor dogs would love to meet them for lunch.
6. I'm attaching a link to a site (run by a GWr's friend IIRC). GW has a Farm Animals site on the garden side. I also have two books: Keep Chickens! by Barbara Kilarski (good for backyard suburban types, good list of cities where chickens can be kept) and Barnyard in Your Backyard by Gail Damerow (more technical/large scale chicken farming operation oriented). Apparently everyone in America used to have chickens until the 1930s-1950s or so; the same "progress/science" mindset that convinced people to buy commercial eggs also convinced many mothers that bottle feeding was better for their babies.
7. If you have chickens, you will find chickens cute...your friends will start to give you chicken stuff...you might even end up with a gorgeous chicken mural above your French range....

Here is a link that might be useful: Backyard Chickens

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clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 04:11 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2008 at 04:11 pm

RE: Cabinet Coat - Bisque versus Almond Pictures attached (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: moonshadow on 11.22.2007 at 08:30 am in Paint Forum

kevhead, forgot to say your painted doors look great! It's been a long time since I posted about my CC kitchen experience. I used that paint on all my trim/doors and love it! It's been a couple years and has held up exceptionally well. Takes nicks and bumps much better than 'regular' latex paint.

But my cabinets I made some mistakes on and I knew better. Read and learn from my mistakes, grasshopper ;) I did not scrub thoroughly enough. (Use a good deep pre-paint cleaner like Dirtex.) Scuff sand the surface. My cabinet fronts were dark 70's stained oak and from prior owners had lots of oils in the wood, both cooking and polish. (You should have seen the rag when I scrubbed them during move in.) So I know that stuff was in the wood, not just on it. I primed with Zinsser Bullseye 123, which is an outstanding primer and I've used it everywhere on all kinds of surfaces including concrete block. In my situation, in hindsight, I should have used an oil-based primer. After about a year I had a couple pin head size spots here and there where the 'nick' went clear down to the old 70's stain. So that tells me my primer wasn't grabbing. (Again, I failed to scrub well and didn't scuff sand well at all. In the midst of a huge remodel, I was totally burned out when I tackled the cabs and never should have done it in that frame of mind.) I now have a couple more areas that show the original surface. Can't emphasize enough: prep is everything and I made some bad judgment calls. I first used CC on rental property cabs about 5 years ago. They were painted in a white oil-based paint, so we didn't prime them. They are holding up so well and still look fresh and new. Rentals take higher than average wear, and those cabinets turned out better than mine :/ Also, in my own home DH installed new, pre-primed doors and trim. After 2 years they still look like brand new. No nicks, nada. I am so pleased with the performance of CC on those projects! So the reason my kitchen cabs have 'issues' is because I failed to properly prep. Save yourself the grief, get the prep part done well! ;D

Once I primed I used my preferred Purdy XL Dale Pro brush and a 6" foam roller. I did the large areas with the foam roller, and immediately came right behind and did a brush swipe to level out little pock marks from the roller. When doing it this way, the brush cannot be completely dry (it will pull the CC off) nor can it be loaded as if you were putting another coat on (CC will drip and run). I kept the bristles 'moist', dipped as if I were doing another coat with the brush, but wiped the side edges, gently scraped the bristle tips, so the brush was probably loaded at 50% max with the CC. Then did my brush stroke in the roller's path. You don't have a lot of play time, this has to be done immediately. Watch for drips/runs as you go.

I just used a brush to do the thinner areas, such as frames, etc.

Oh, one more thing, for anyone interested CC is self priming. I've done experiments to see how well that works. It does self prime but on darker/stained surfaces it takes a lot more coats of CC. So on a stained surface, I used primer to save $, because it took less coats of CC to finish. I had two cheapy cherry stained plant stands. I painted one with CC and no primer, it took a good 5 coats. The other I primed first with Bullseye and then topcoated with CC. That one took 3 coats max.

I have to go cook sweet taters now ;) Will be on vacation starting tomorrow and won't be around. I'm pretty sure Michael has a CC tutorial floating around somewhere (or at least tips) and others here have experience with CC too, if you get in a pinch. ;)

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clipped on: 08.02.2008 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2008 at 05:39 pm

RE: whole grain baking (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: grainlady on 04.04.2008 at 06:54 am in Cooking Forum

Ummmmmmmmmm BROWNIES!!!!

1. I'd have to agree with pink overalls - fresh is best when it comes to using wholegrain flours. Grains have a very long shelf-life and are easy to store. When you purchase wholegrain flour, you never know what you are getting - other than to be assured it's NOT freshly milled and it probably hasn't been kept under refrigeration or frozen. Once the bran on any grain/seed/bean is cracked open and milled into flour, the valuable nutrients and oils are exposed to oxygen and degrade immediately. After all the years I've milled wholegrain flours from a variety of grains/seeds/beans, I'd never use commercial. There's no comparison - taste or nutrition.

2. It isn't just about flour either, it's all the wonderful things you can do with the whole grain. Amaranth is an excellent grain nutritionally that I add whole. When added to muffins or quick breads, it looks and feels like a golden poppyseed. It's also an easy grain to grow. Cooked wheat can be added to all kinds of things. Then there's all the things you can do with sprouts, which can be made from grains. Check out the book, "The Splendid Grain" by Rebecca Wood for more ideas and recipes.

3. You'll often have better luck using recipes that were written using wholegrain flour/s rather than altering recipes that use bleached/unbleached flour.

4. Choose recipes where there is less flour to begin with, and more flavor from other things like chocolate, fruit, etc. Brownies are a good example for that - or bar cookies and quick breads that have a lot of flavor from fruit (banana or pumpkin bread). People are always surprised where I stick rye flour. I think it's an under-used flour choice.

5. Choose recipes where the wholegrain is a familiar one, like oatmeal.

6. Hubby makes me a German Chocolate Cake every year for my birthday. Instead of regular flour, he mills a 3:1 ratio of soft white wheat and oat groats to use as "cake" flour and makes a 100% wholegrain cake. The texture is absolutely wonderful because he chose a low-gluten combination, and no one is the wiser that it's 100% wholegrain flour. Besides, it's what's on top that counts when it comes to German Chocolate Cake (LOL). But even there, we make Coconut-Pecan Frosting with unsweetened coconut and use low-glycemic agave nectar instead of sugar. Once again, no one is the wiser.

7. My regular recipe for 100% Whole Wheat Bread uses a sponge method. Letting the sponge rest at least 2-1/2 hours, or as long as 12 hours, improves the texture and taste to the point it's hard to tell it's 100% whole wheat flour. It's NEVER heavy (a common complaint of most 100% whole wheat breads) because of the sponge method. It's never bitter because I use white wheat instead of red wheat.

7. Go slowly when switching to wholegrain flour. It took us 6 months to wean off commercial breads, and another 6 months before we decided it was okay to get rid of the light wheat loaves (part white flour and part wholegrain flour) for 100% whole wheat. It was easier to incorporate wholegrains like multi-grain cereal as an add-in to yeast breads, and wholegrain flour in "goodies", dinner rolls, pancakes/waffles, hamburger/sandwich buns than to start by messing with the bread. People just don't seem to have a problem eating a cookie made with spelt/rye/whole wheat flour. But just don't mess with their white bread (LOL)!

Check out the link below (Kansas Wheat Commission - Recipes) for lots of recipes using whole wheat flour. Their recipe for Whole Wheat Sugar Cookies (with the hint of orange flavor) is a favorite of everyone I've ever served them to. They are always surprised to find out they are made with ALL whole wheat flour.

-Grainlady

Here is a link that might be useful: Kansas Wheat Commission - Recipes

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clipped on: 07.04.2008 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2008 at 10:28 pm

RE: artisan 5 minute bread book reviews? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: magic_az on 02.29.2008 at 04:59 pm in Cooking Forum

Here is the video demonstration if anyone is interested.

Here is a link that might be useful: Art in 5 video

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clipped on: 07.04.2008 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2008 at 10:20 pm

RE: artisan 5 minute bread book reviews? (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: stacy3 on 02.28.2008 at 10:43 am in Cooking Forum

Hi Maggie, here is the recipe. There was also a link to a video somewhere...

From Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day: The Discovery that Revolutionizes Home Baking by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois (Thomas Dunne Books, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois.

Serves 4

Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance.

1-1/2 tablespoons granulated yeast (about 1-1/2 packets)
1-1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
6-1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus extra for dusting dough
Cornmeal
In a large plastic resealable container, mix yeast and salt into 3 cups lukewarm (about 100 degrees) water. Using a large spoon, stir in flour, mixing until mixture is uniformly moist with no dry patches. Do not knead. Dough will be wet and loose enough to conform to shape of plastic container. Cover, but not with an airtight lid.

Let dough rise at room temperature, until dough begins to flatten on top or collapse, at least 2 hours and up to 5 hours. (At this point, dough can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks; refrigerated dough is easier to work with than room-temperature dough, so the authors recommend that first-time bakers refrigerate dough overnight or at least 3 hours.)

When ready to bake, sprinkle cornmeal on a pizza peel. Place a broiler pan on bottom rack of oven. Place baking stone on middle rack and repeat oven to 450 degrees, preheating baking stone for at least 20 minutes.

Sprinkle a little flour on dough and on your hands. Pull dough up and, using a serrated knife, cut off a grapefruit-size piece (about 1 pound). Working for 30 to 60 seconds (and adding flour as needed to prevent dough from sticking to hands; most dusting flour will fall off, it's not intended to be incorporated into dough), turn dough in hands, gently stretching surface of dough, rotating ball a quarter-turn as you go, creating a rounded top and a bunched bottom.

Place shaped dough on prepared pizza peel and let rest, uncovered, for 40 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough or refrigerate it in lidded container. (Even one day's storage improves flavor and texture of bread. Dough can also be frozen in 1-pound portions in airtight containers and defrosted overnight in refrigerator prior to baking day.) Dust dough with flour.

Using a serrated knife, slash top of dough in three parallel, -inch deep cuts (or in a tic-tac-toe pattern). Slide dough onto preheated baking stone. Pour 1 cup hot tap water into broiler pan and quickly close oven door to trap steam. Bake until crust is well-browned and firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven to a wire rack and cool completely.

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clipped on: 07.04.2008 at 10:07 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2008 at 10:19 pm

RE: How would you describe a 'barefoot home'? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: oruboris on 07.03.2008 at 05:31 am in Building a Home Forum

I'm a member of the Society for Barefoot Living, and will have to pass the existence of this book on to the others. But I note it's from an associate of Sarah Susanka, and frankly, a lot of the designs associated with her movement suck: great looking, not great living homes. IMO, of course.

A respect for natural materials would be one of the hallmarks for me, so I'd have to disagree on painted wood.

I'd disagree on hardwood floors, too, if they are mirror finished and need to be babied. I choose not to wear shoes, and honor your right to choose for yourself-- in other words, I'm shoe free, my house isn't. Having a dress [or undress] code seems the antithesis of a barefoot lifestyle.

Actually, though, it isn't a matter of materials to me, so much as design: so many homes today seem to be created for a very formal lifestyle, and I'm a jeans and t-shirt kind of guy most of the time. I don't care for rooms so stuffy that you feel underdressed without a tie.

But I don't necessarily want to change immeadiately on returning home, either: If I choose to lounge a while in my Zegna Cashmere [and barefeet, of course], thats cool too. So no patio furniture indoors, no bookcases made from cinder blocks, etc. In other words, a barefoot home needn't be monument to the hippy era.

I'd say the true hallmark of a barefoot home is a feeling of comfort and relaxation, both physical and psychological, that is low maintenence without being shabby. It asks little and gives much, it welcomes, it is genuinely gracious but never grand.

It does not dress to impress.

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clipped on: 07.03.2008 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2008 at 10:12 pm

RE: If you color your own hair ... (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: southernheart on 07.01.2008 at 04:40 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I've been coloring my hair since my early 30s, and have come to the point in time where I know what colors and products work well with my hair. I've also saved a lot of money doing it, with nice results. My mother and I used the same stylist when I originally began coloring, and my mother asked her what I should use to color my hair as it would be in the salon (she knew it was too pricey for me, staying home with small children).

She recommended I go to Sally Beauty supply and purchase the Clairol permanent products, and told my mother which colors to use. I have fairly dark brown hair (naturally about a level 3 in coloring terms), which has turned a more dull/ash-y color over the years, but also reddens when it is colored. At that time, she recommended using Clairol Permanent colorant (it's a gel, in a tube---they come in long, skinny boxes) Level 4 Golden Blonde mixed with a Level 6 Copper Red, then mixed with an equal amount of 20 Volume Developer (that level developer gives a medium lift). It was a nice effect, but still a bit dark as I got older, and also sometimes a bit brassy with the Golden Blonde colorant.

For the past few years, I have used Clairol Permanent gel, Level 8 Natural Blonde. I mix it with an equal amount of the 10 Volume Clairol White Developing creme that comes in a bottle (I mix it in a bottle if I'm coloring my whole head, an old plastic bowl if I'm doing roots). Developers come in "Volumes", and I use a 10 volume because I'm not trying to lift my own hair color very much and it's easier on my hair. If you want more "lift" you can use a 20, 30, or 40 volume developer, but the higher the lift, the more damage you can incur. As you get into the higher volume developers, be sure to watch your color time, and also try to touch up roots rather than do whole-head coloring every time.

You may be wondering why I choose such a high level blonde (8) when I'm naturally a 3 or 4? Since I'm not going for much lift with my developer, the "natural" blonde will simply color my hair and bring out my natural auburn highlights without adding more "brassiness" (as you would get with a "golden" or "copper/red" colorant), and it also colors my gray a very nice, darker blonde color, so my gray now looks like subtle highlights. I have tried even lighter blondes (10 or 12s), but have found that they don't cover my gray as well. If I'm wanting to go more auburn, especially in winter, I will mix in a little of a Level 6 auburn/copper-red along with the blonde. Always be sure that your total amount of colorant (in ounces) equals your total ounces of developer.

Since my hair is coarse and harder to cover, I usually leave my color on longer. It doesn't change the color value (since I'm not lightening a lot), it just allows it to penetrate the shaft. They also have "red-gold corrector", etc, that you can add to your color mix, but those have never worked that well for me.

When I had my hair cut a few weeks ago, I asked my stylist (she's also a Master Colorist) if she wanted to play with the color, change something, etc? She told me that she wouldn't touch it...that she felt my results were as nice as anything she could do. If I wanted more pronounced highlights, I would probably let her do them since my hair goes brassy if I'm not careful.

If you want to do only your roots, have a friend, sister, or DH help you get the parts in the back. If you just take it section by section, it's not too bad. Do comb it through the last 5 minutes or so, to even your whole-head color.

If you want to color at home, I highly recommend skipping the grocery store dyes...they never covered my gray well, and they don't last as long as the salon-level products. The salon type products also last much longer as far as using them goes. You only mix exactly what you need, so you're not wasting partial boxes, or buying multiple boxes, of grocery store dyes. I usually buy several tubes of colorant and a bottle of developer every six months or so, and that costs maybe $15-20 dollars all together.

I also highly recommend using a color-protectant shampoo and conditioner to keep your color from fading. I have used Pureology and also ISO Color protectant products; either works great. Ask your colorist for product suggestions, ask on forums online, or if you're lucky, you can find some people who are helpful at the beauty supply store.

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clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:11 pm

RE: rmkitchen ... (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: rmkitchen on 05.05.2008 at 01:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you for all these positive thoughts, Friends! I've not been online much -- our puppy is having difficulty recovering from her spaying (yesterday she had her third surgery in nine days -- she'll be fine, her incision doesn't want to heal and so a vessel keeps popping out, which means we are on our toes monitoring that sweet little thing!) and both my children have a flu with all that super-fun blow-out diarrhea and explosive vomiting. I feel so bad for them -- I wish it were me who were sick in their stead! But on the bright side, my youngest (Ruffin) is doing so well with his gross motor skills. Still no walking, but a lot of exaggerated standing unassisted and "free" steps from one stationary object (table) to another (sofa). Of everyone, he has benefited the most from having our house back. It is just phenomenal.

So what a beautiful way for me to start off our update -- oozing guts and poop. Ahem.

freezer closed

fridge open

my soon-to-be four year-old "cleaning" under the sink

We are living and cooking in the kitchen, still feeling a long way from being done (not everything is put away). It is beautiful, which makes me happy, but I'm still getting the hang of its function. I wrote, now where did I write it ... anyway, on another thread I wrote that when we moved into this house last year we never bothered to unpack all our stuff (inc. kitchen) because we knew we'd be redoing the kitchen and I just dreaded the thought of unpacking and then repacking within a matter of months. Big mistake. Huge, although not fatal.

So there's a bit of trial-and-error on where things ought to live. I'm frustrated because this kitchen was so ridiculously expensive (someone [me] didn't add it all up until a fortnight ago and then I had a heart attack!) that I feel it should be "perfect" (whatever that is). We just had no business spending that much money on this kitchen -- our neighborhood cannot support it and it makes me want to spend no more money on the house (and we've still some work to do -- backyard and the master bedroom / bath -- DIY to the rescue!). I'd imagine (and you can bet I'm hoping) my reaction(s) is normal, that when all is said-and-done the homeowner feels as if it could have been done differently / for less.

The cabinetmaker still has a few odds & ends (missing drawer, missing toekicks, missing furniture feet, one door which wont close on its own) before we can call it a day. A la pirula I painted the toekicks black (they were white) so they would visually disappear. Love it! The paint store made a mistake with the formula and when I opened the can it was a beautiful deep plum. I shook it like crazy, stirred and then put on a coat anyway. Someone came over and said I was so bold for doing purple toekicks. So back we went to the paint store to get black!

The electricians are due to come back Tuesday to (fingers crossed) finish their portion! Once they rework the undercab lights the over-the-counter microwave can be installed (it's our only "missing" appliance). Not sure what / how it happened, but our cabinetmaker "misunderstood" (more likely forgot) that the microwave was to be built into the cabinets so the light rail would run underneath it. Instead, the microwave bifurcates the light rail. It's not a big deal but it does mean that the undercab lights I'd purchased (and the electricians had installed) will now not work. (had to get shorter units and some rewiring is also necessary given the lower placement of the microwave) The exhaust system is also waiting on them, and we could use it! Not so much for the exhaust as for its lights. Our hood is lovely (I think) but huge, so no ceiling light reaches the cooktop. Also, as the pipe is open up to the roof (remote blower), it can be a little noisy (listening to the wind rattle it). Hey, whatever it is it's still better than cooking on a single induction burner on top of the washing machine!

Last night I baked my first sweet. Hip hip hurrah! (Ive been feeling spent with the three littles that finally I succumbed to my drug of choice: chocolate.) While I still think the Gaggenau 30" double wall oven ought to have those deliciously smooth gliding racks (a la Electrolux) for the prices they charge, it's proving to be a great oven. It is so quiet! Holy cow is that a slice of heaven. And those side-opening doors -- how have I lived these past thirty-plus years without them? Seriously, they just make sense!

The raised dishwasher is freaking fantastic. Again, it just makes sense. To think of my pregnant self stooping over to load / empty a traditionally-placed dishwasher, and now I'm not even pregnant! Almost wish I could hop in a time machine ....

As I wrote my marble buddy Mindi I had the flu a few weeks ago myself (which was terrific because it got me to a number on the scale I haven't seen since before kiddos!) and when I came down to the kitchen the light was hitting the marble backsplash just right and it looked like Roquefort cheese and I nearly threw up then and there. So I'm a vegan and I had this horrible feeling I was going to live surrounded by stinky cheese. Oh no! But luckily it must have been flu-induced vision because now I just see the beautiful marble. To non-vegans I'll sound ridiculous, I know, but any of you who don't eat dairy (for whatever reason) will understand how hard it would be on the system (either GI or psyche) to be faced with this enormous slab of cheese. Talk about vomit!

Thank you for all the wonderfully kind and dear thoughts and comments! I appreciate it so v. much. I really do.

Hopefully by the end of this month I'll be able to post "finished" pictures. Fingers crossed! Can't wait to see all of yours, too ....

-Brooke

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clipped on: 06.05.2008 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 06.05.2008 at 10:34 am

Companion Planting

posted by: grow_now on 02.19.2008 at 10:32 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I was firing questions at my gardening expert friend and she directed me to this website.

There is a busload of companion planting information

http://www.countrybrookfarms.com/Vegetable_Garden.html

Here is a link that might be useful: Companion Planting

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clipped on: 05.28.2008 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2008 at 01:46 pm

RE: Wolf AG, are you happy with yours? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 03.30.2008 at 11:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Washing the parts in the sink is easy enough, though I admit to going as long as I can if I haven't slopped up the range top while cooking! I'm a messy cook, so if I've cooked using the burners, I usually end up taking the top apart to clean it at once every week to 2 weeks.

It's easy to take the grates off and pop out the burner pans for cleaning, and you do develop a routine pretty quickly. I spray some Dawn Power Dissolver gel spray on the burner pans and the grates and let them sit a little while before washing them in the sink with a soapy blue scrub sponge (in my 30" X 17" sink, I do the grates two at a time, the pans, one at a time). After rinsing, I let the grates air dry upside down on paper towels on my counter (when I put the grates back on the range, I let the paper towels dry out and use them as needed for other things). I dry the burner pans with a regular dishtowel, going over any smudgey spots with a microfiber cloth if they need it. They do come out nicely when I wash them.

The grates are a bit spotty looking (grease?) even after cleaning, but I figure it'll blend into a patina over time, and they're burner grates anyway--who really cares? I don't clean the burner caps/rings unless something spilled and burnt on. Again, they're burner rings and not meant to look pristine IMHO.

For spot cleaning or a quick spritz/wipe, I've been using Perfect Kitchen most recently (blue spray bottle at BB&B). I found out about it at the Wolf/SZ showroom. It's touted as being residue free (for no streaking) and it says on the label it's good for granite as well. I have to agree--so far it's the best thing I've tried for spot cleaning the range top without leaving it a smeary mess, and it does a nice job on my granite tabletop (which sometimes gets all hazy when I use my SCI cleaner).

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clipped on: 03.31.2008 at 03:24 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2008 at 03:24 pm

RE: Our kitchen's maiden voyage/hate my rangetop? (Follow-Up #61)

posted by: chefkev on 03.04.2008 at 02:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Grill pans are great for steaks, but so are cast iron skillets. For a really great indoor steak: Preheat your oven to about 350, get your pan good and hot, season it lightly with oil, season meat, place in pan and sear or grill for about 2 minutes per side (until nicely browned or good grill marks). Remove pan from burner and place in oven til desired doneness (timing will depend thickness of steak). Use touch method or my favorite, a probe thermometer placed sideways in the center of the steak. 105 degrees = rare, 110 = med rare, 115 = med. This is the temp right when it comes out of the pan - it will carry-over cook to the correct end temperature. (If you're going to cook it more than medium, I don't want to know about it, but for God sakes don't go over 120.) Remember to allow it to rest loosely covered for 3-7 min depending on size of steak. This gives the juices a chance to reabsorb back into the steak so that when you cut into it, the juices don't all go onto your cutting board or plate. The advantage of finishing the steak in the oven is that the lower temperature means the steak will tighten up less towards the end and therefore stay juicier. This should also mean it is pink or red all the way through the middle and not just in the very center. Experienced grillers achieve this same effect my moving the meat to a cooler zone on the grill once it has good grill marks. Take thin steaks off right away though or they'll be overdone. If you are so motivated, a great pan sauce can be made from the drippings and brown bits in the pan and reducing a little bit of wine while the steak is resting. If your doctor isn't already spazzing about your cholesterol (like mine currently is), a little butter swirled in at the very end along with your herb of choice makes it even better.

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Oven on conventional bake. Sear sides quickly if very thick and if desired.
clipped on: 03.04.2008 at 01:13 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2008 at 09:53 pm

RE: Our kitchen's maiden voyage/hate my rangetop? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: plllog on 02.27.2008 at 05:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Ouch! You've always driven an electric golf cart around the island but you need to drive over the bridge and onto the Interstate, you know you need the power so you took the plunge and got your first internal combustion auto: A Ferrari. Everyone is very impressed, and it's very pretty, but man, oh man, is it powerful!! Unexpectedly powerful. And fussy. It needs constant attention or you'll be into the guardrail. The windows are so squinty you're scared you're going to run over the children every time you back out even though you know they've already left for school. And that bright yellow shows every spec, so it always seems dirty after every trip, what with the exhaust dust and pollen and soil in the air that all seem to stick. Why, oh why did you buy a Ferrari???

Oh, yeah. It's one of the best cars ever. It's a home version of what the pros drive. It has more power than you can ever use. And it's SO much fun to drive.

So. Family meeting time. Show the kids the wok and explain an open flame to them. Then show them what it looks like lit. Buy a great big pot lid at a garage sale and put it on the wall by the stove, and buy a fire extinguisher and mount it nearby. Explain fire safety, have family fire drills, have the kids practice smothering a (makebelieve) fire and the routine of using an extinguisher. Check the smoke point of the oils you use and use a candy thermometer in your pan to figure out how high (low) the flame will have to be to keep it under that point.

And be sure you set your flames a tad smaller than your pan. Don't forget to use the simmer for lower temperatures. Use the middle burners for the most spattery stuff. That's the stuff that most needs the hood too, and it keeps the spatter off the counter.

Put a griddle next to where you're cooking if you have a lot of splatter because it's easier to clean than the stove. Keep a kettle on the stove as well. Use a spatter guard. Arrange things so that combustibles aren't near the stove, but flame retardant pot holders and mitts are within easy reach.

Never pour oil or alcohol from the bottle over the open flame. Pour into a prep bowl or measuring cup, or take the pan away from the flames. Teach these things to the kids even if they're not allowed to touch the stove yet.

While it's still pretty clean, take the amazing Wolf rangetop (what I would have gotten if I hadn't learned about induction here) totally apart, clean it, put it totally back together. Repeat, skipping the cleaning step. Repeat. Repeat again. Once you're familiar with it it won't seem as big a deal.

Is that the closed burner version? You say "each drip pan" Either way, the biggest deal is picking up the grates! Consider a part of what makes housework such a good workout :) Once you have your cleaning routine down, it won't seem to be such a chore. But yes, even with my crappy old four burner, the whole thing needs cleaning after each use. Even with the amount of cooking you do, however, I think you could limit it to once or twice a day if nothing really messy happens.

The more you use the burners the less mess there will be. That's why I recommended the kettle above. Think how great it'll be when you're completely moved in and you've really got it going!! Translate this picture to the way you cook: A pot of stock, a kettle, and a pot of chili in the back. A pot of beans, and a tortilla warmer in the front. Three open burners to make a meal on, and the kids can make themselves burritos as they walk by. (Okay, that was my mother's childhood, but you get the idea.)

You're going to LOVE your Ferrari. You're going to be able to make minestrone, braise lamb shanks, saute onions and mushrooms, steam a whole mess of vegetables, and grill cheese sandwiches for lunch, all at the same time.

But going from a golf cart to a Ferrari you're going to need some time to relearn how to drive. At first it's going to seem scary and intimidating. But, next year? Oooh! You'll be at the track every other weekend eager to race!

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clipped on: 02.27.2008 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 02.27.2008 at 11:21 am

Secret Stainless Steel remedy SHHHH

posted by: lobotome on 11.15.2006 at 09:53 am in Kitchens Forum

Can I tell you a huge secret with Stainless Steel that I just learned from the cleaning ladies who came to do the final clean up after remodeling?

This was used on my stainless appliances and I was so super duper surprised at the results.

I noticed that my appliances didn't have the little streaks that sometimes happens when I clean them with stainless cleaner. You know how sometimes some areas seem a bit darker than others and you have to go over it 20 times? Also, they have stayed streak or print free for a lot longer than before after using this product.

They use "Countertop Magic" it's not easy to find it here in Canada but I did have a can of it from when I had laminated counters. This stuff is a small miracle. The lead cleaning lady told me that she sprays down the appliance with it, then dries in nice even strokes with a cloth and that's it. She also said that when she started using it, it mentioned that it also cleans Stainless, but they have stopped putting that on the label now (perhaps this company now makes their own specialized stainless cleaner now that stainless is so popular??) This is a laminate and plastic cleaner as it says on the can, but wow does it do a great job on stainless... and no sticky residue, which I think is the reason I haven't had to redo it so quickly. I'll be doing it on my own today or tomorrow because after a week in a half it's now due. A big change from needing to be redone after only a few days with the specified stainless cleaner.

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clipped on: 11.15.2006 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 05:29 pm

RE: ?cabinet door conversion to accept trash pedal? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lowspark on 09.29.2006 at 02:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

dmlove,
I'm pretty sure you'd want the pedal for trash can which sits on base.

The real difference between the two designs as far as I can tell, is how you attach the bungee cord which acts as a spring. You're either attaching it high to rails above the bins or low to a shelf below the bins, which is what you have.

Just in case someone else is reading this and wants the link to the kind which hangs from rails, here it is: Pedal for trash can which hangs from rails

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clipped on: 11.10.2006 at 02:57 am    last updated on: 11.10.2006 at 02:57 am

RE: Less 'dressy' kitchens? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rhome410 on 10.11.2006 at 03:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I have seen a lot of kitchens with cabinets that, personally, I think look more like they belong in dens. Too dressy and formal for me. I think it's the glossy finish maybe, and usually glossy granite. I mean no offense to anyone who has such a kitchen, because they certainly are beautiful, but not the comfy, lived-in, working/throw-flour-around kitchen I want.

I struggle with the area to leave things sitting out. It was hard to remember to leave such places in our future kitchen. I'm not big into knick knacks or anything cluttery, but would like a great cookie jar, some ceramic bowls, and/or a few decorative pieces in view.

I am not at all country or rustic either. To achieve the look I want, I think I want to keep gloss at a minimum...I prefer satin or eggshell finish to paint and a hand-rubbed-looking finish on stained or natural wood cabinets. I thought it might be too country, but I'm finding myself considering butcher block for a couple of work areas. Ours would be cherry, and I will probably try to protect it from wear and patina for awhile, but let it develop gradually. The rest I want to look like the soapstone or slate I can't afford...Not to imitate the stone, but to have a basic, dark work surface that doesn't demand it's own attention, either visually or in maintenance.

Our cabinet style will be fairly formal (Shaker), but with a unique and color-rich backsplash, and there will be 2 areas where the new cabinets are supposed to resemble older-styled hutches. One will be a different color than the rest of the cabinets, and the island may be also.

The thing that will really make the kitchen 'us' will be that my husband and boys will make the butcher block, one of my daughters and I will design the backsplash with the other kids pitching in. If it's not too wild, we might throw in some fun knobs, also.

Have you looked through the finished kitchens blog for a variety of ideas?

Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Kitchens to view

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clipped on: 11.09.2006 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2006 at 10:29 pm

RE: Please help with paint --- Kermit the Frog threw up in my kit (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mdmc on 11.05.2006 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

We wanted a green but with a soft look. We went with SW Grassland. Couldn't be happier. Color is a little darker than the picture shows.

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clipped on: 11.06.2006 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2006 at 12:04 pm

RE: Oh no... what can I do? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: GMC_ASE_TECH on 09.20.2005 at 07:58 pm in Cars Forum

I posted this a couple months ago and I know it works as I've used this technique myself.

Here's something shown to me by an Auto detail guy, He's been in the Business for 20 years that I know of so I was interested in his advice on clean windshields. Get some Steel wool, # 0000, or super fine, and pick up some Automotive Cleaner-wax. Take a piece of the Steel wool and put a generous amount of the cleaner on it AND the Windshield, now VERY GENTLY use a swirl or circular motion and "polish" your windows, after you do an area you just buff it out like you would a cars painted surface. Take your time and do small sections at a time, I generally do mine in 1/4's. After you have buffed your windshield clean, use some Rain-X and give it a coating. You'll be amazed at how clean it comes out, and the Rain-X not only helps with water but also bird droppings, tree sap, etc. I know this sounds like an invitation for tons of scratches and I was skeptical until I watched this guy do it on a customers car. I've been doing this with my windshield for at least 10 years now, and not a single scratch. Hope this helps.

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clipped on: 11.05.2006 at 02:00 am    last updated on: 11.05.2006 at 02:00 am

RE: Hardwood: waterlox vs. poly vs. something else? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jrdwyer on 08.20.2006 at 05:39 pm in Flooring Forum

Waterlox pros- easy to apply (flows well and dries slowly), give wood a deep and rich looking finish, penetrates into the wood surface somewhat and is not just a film, pretty good water and chemical resistance, easier touch up than regular poly (sanding not needed between coats).

Waterlox cons- slow drying (1 week for furniture and 2-4 weeks for full cure), high smell when wet (VOCS), does scratch but really this is not a problem with a satin finish and/or heavily grained wood species, imparts a deeper and darker natural color which may be bad if you want a light modern look.

I highly recommend preparing some sample boards to see if the color or tone is right for you. You can buy small Waterlox samples for a few dollars at local woodworking shops.

Here is my effort with Waterlox:

Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox on Oak

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clipped on: 11.01.2006 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2006 at 10:02 pm

RE: Sanding Waterlox (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jrdwyer on 07.12.2006 at 04:04 pm in Flooring Forum

I went the lazy route and did not sand and wipe between coats of Waterlox (2 sealer, 2 satin). As you probably know, it's not necessary to sand for adhesion purposes. Of course I put down R&Q #1 common red oak that has lots of grain and moderate character, so minor finish imperfections are hardly noticable unless you get down on your hands and knees.

If you want close to a furniture-like finish, then definitely light sand or buff and wipe clean after 3rd coat and before final coat.

Imperfections can be minimized during application by using bright light when applying the finish, hair nets, and wiping shoes carefully or using disposable booties. Long pants and shirt also will help prevent arm and leg hair from falling off into finish. Finally, make sure the applicator is free of lint by hand washing, drying and then vacuuming.

Now that our wood floor is in, I will probably go room by room when I add another coat of Waterlox and do a light sanding beforehand. I won't have the time deadlines as during the initial install.

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clipped on: 11.01.2006 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2006 at 10:01 pm

RE: Wood counters update on waterlox (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.24.2006 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used 400 grit sandpaper between coat 2 and the third one that I just put on. My floor guy suggested it. I followed that w/ the tack cloth. The counter felt like silk.I then applied the Waterlox w/ the towel I have been storing in a zip lock bag. They are looking amazing. Can't say how glad I am that we got teak. Caroline

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clipped on: 10.25.2006 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2006 at 12:20 pm

RE: Help, I need pictures for cabinet maker! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bamaspice on 10.18.2006 at 11:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

mimi-- This may not be what you're looking for but I had these made by my handyman. He's now going to do them all around my island to make it loof like furniture. Good luck!!
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's the leg without being finished or attached:
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Hope this helps!! Not sure if this was what you were looking for goodluck!

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clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 01:36 am    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 01:36 am

RE: Do white cabinets detract from home value?!?!? Help!! :) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: girlwithaspirin on 08.30.2006 at 12:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I shoot commercials for a living, and recently, I was looking for a house with a gorgeous, modern but timeless kitchen. We looked through photos of probably 150 houses in Pasadena -- easily $1 million and more -- and I'd say 140 of them had white kitchens with cup pulls. It was bizarre, to say the least, but each one was more stunning than the next.

Imagine this place with lots of original woodwork, and I think it's pretty obvious... ain't nothing detracting from the home value there!

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clipped on: 10.02.2006 at 01:28 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2006 at 01:28 pm

RE: 'Don't cut on my butcher block island??' HUH? (Follow-Up #58)

posted by: mondragon on 09.22.2006 at 09:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love the Waterlox satin finish and it's incredibly easy to apply. Multiple thin coats with a clean cloth and it dries smooth each time.

I had a house with butcherblock counters that had been poly'd. Everywhere it was cut or scratched the poly was peeling up and the unprotected wood was swelling. It wasn't that old and I had to sand it all off. I'd never use poly on a surface that gets a lot of use.

Just remember that "tung oil finish" like Formby's doesn't contain any tung oil - it's a "tung oil finish" wiping varnish which means they're saying it will look like a real tung oil finish. It won't soak in and protect the way real tung oil does. For my butcherblocks I use pure tung oil that I got here. As they advise I thin it with their natural citrus solvent which helps it soak in, smells great, but will dissolve through a plastic cup in no time flat.

For areas I'm not cutting on I like Waterlox which is tung oil with a resin mixed in to leave a light surface seal for even more protection. A great thing about both of them is that you can reapply them without stripping or sanding. For surfaces that get a lot of wear that's a good thing.

I may sound like a salesman but I'm just a satisfied customer. I only use poly for surfaces like trim and moulding, and even then I'm moving more towards Waterlox or shellac.

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clipped on: 09.25.2006 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2006 at 01:08 pm

Waterlox (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: mondragon on 09.22.2006 at 04:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a pic of a table I just refinished, it's very old, I sanded the old finish off, added a few drops of "early american" stain to pure tung oil and sealed it with that, then several rubbings of Waterlox Satin.

Water now beads up on it. I love how much nicer it looks than poly.

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clipped on: 09.22.2006 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2006 at 08:15 pm

RE: 'Don't cut on my butcher block island??' HUH? (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: mondragon on 09.21.2006 at 10:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

azdream - I looked at the Spekva homepage and the oil they list is just vegetable oil. I'm not sure that that's going to be enough protection where you get a lot of water.

Tung oil is different in that it soaks in and then hardens. I am always amazed at how much tung oil a new butcherblock can absorb and it makes me feel more comfortable knowing it's not going to be absorbing water. It's also nontoxic and can be touched up just by applying more oil.

Waterlox has some resins that sit on the surface to provide even more protection. I used it on a kitchen table - ~6 thin coats allowed to soak in - and absolutley nothing bothers it.

I had butcherblock around a sink that I oiled with danish oil regularly and it still split over time. If I had it to do over again I'd make a bigger effort to seal it well from the start.

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clipped on: 09.22.2006 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2006 at 08:12 pm

I could really use your advice!(pics)

posted by: snagd on 09.14.2006 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

My husband and I are unsure about what to do for a vent hood. I purchased a slide out vent that I thought could be custom installed, however I am finding OUT carpenters in my area are not very creative. My dh now says he would rather have a stainless hood. I am not sure thats the look I am going for. I really want to scrap the whole vent idea and put shelves, I know how you'all feel about that! I have already purchased the other, hopefully I can sell it somehow. I don't want to spend alot on it,yet I know it could be a focal point.I am including pics of the kitchen to get an idea the look I have. Any advice? what would you do?
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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clipped on: 09.15.2006 at 03:20 am    last updated on: 09.15.2006 at 03:21 am

toilet test results

posted by: lowellches on 09.03.2006 at 08:57 am in Building a Home Forum

http://www.cuwcc.org/uploads/product/MaP_Seventh_Edition_CONDENSED_06-07-07.pdf

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clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 01:14 am    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 01:14 am

RE: ? For the Women (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: rhome410 on 08.30.2006 at 12:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

This is a great thread. I hadn't thought of having my own toolbelt, and didn't even know there were pink ones. A couple of weeks ago, because of the information you've all provided, I ordered my own from be-jane to surprise my husband. We are building our own house...almost all DIY. I designed it, our 16 yo son drew up the complete set of plans (with guidance from his drafting teacher, a licensed architect), and my husband is leading up the work crew of our kids (mostly the 2 oldest boys, 16 and 12)...and now me with my pink toolbelt!

My son didn't understand why, when the box came, that I said it was a surprise for Dad when it was actually something for me to use. I wanted to let my husband know that I was in this project with him all the way, and that I was willing to help. Thankfully, he totally got it and has been so thrilled to have me be part of the framing crew.

This is truly a family project--a 'family-building project' in both senses of the phrase-- and one of the most fun and rewarding things we have ever done. So exciting! We feel very blessed. We have a long way to go, so, hopefully, I'll feel this way through it all. I'm sure there will be ups and downs. It sounds silly, but I don't think I'd feel so involved if it weren't for my pink toolbelt motivating me to get out there! Thanks!!

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clipped on: 08.31.2006 at 02:35 am    last updated on: 08.31.2006 at 02:35 am

RE: Just a bit of paint praise (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: cookiemonsterdh on 08.28.2006 at 03:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'll see if we can get a picture to post, but the pictures we took after the first coat really don't come close to doing it justice.

Re Method:

We took the door off it's hinges and layed it on saw horses on a drop cloth INSIDE. It's WAY too hot to paint outside the paint would dry too fast and would be covered with every bug in a 5 sq mile radius I'm sure.

I used a high end bristle (as opposed to nylon) sash (angled edge) brush. There were so many pieces of moulding in between the flat planes that a roller just didn't seem like it would help much. I found the key to keeping a wet edge (which really IS the key as you pointed out mindstorm)was to start at one end of the door and work sloooowly through to the other. I was moving forward about 6-10" per pass (though there was a ton of variation, that was about the average... ish ;)) trying to make sure I hit each section in the same sequence. You REALLY have to avoid the temptation to finish a particular piece and keep moving from side to side on the door. I have never seen or worked with a paint that self levels as much as this stuff, but it's important to NOT go back and touch up sections that you have finished, get them on the next coat if needed.

I steel wooled the whole door after the first coat, vacuumed it with a hepa filter shop vac, then tack clothed it. The final coat I plan on doing the same thing, but only using the steel wool on the horizontal surfaces, as even with 0000 wool, it was getting the sharp edges of the moulding almost back down to primer.

My basic rules of thumb now that I've done 2 coats with the FPE:

1. Do small sections at a time.

2. Paint quickly putting the newly dipped brush down several inches from the wet edge of the last section and then painting back towards it.

3. Minimize any touching up and avoid the temptation to try and even out the brush strokes by dragging the brush though already painted areas.

4. Trust the self leveling to eliminate any brush strokes, only runs are a real problem.

Overall, though I've found the whole project to be a major time sink, particularly getting all the hardware off and stripping off 70+ years of lead paint, It's been very rewarding. I can't wait to see the response of our friends/family when they come to our annual Crab/Shrimp feast in about a week. :)

James

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clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:26 pm

RE: GROUT.....sanded....unsanded.... (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.09.2006 at 12:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

less than 1/8", unsanded. Everything else, sanded.

no matter WHAT the material.

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clipped on: 08.16.2006 at 03:26 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2006 at 03:26 pm

Finally installed my concrete countertops... pics linked inside..

posted by: drummer13 on 08.07.2006 at 12:18 am in Kitchens Forum

Awhile back I had posted an update of my kitchen remodel that we started in January. At the time I had not yet begun working on the concrete countertops yet because I was still doing the research on how to make them. So I read the books and watched the DVD produced by Cheng Design on how to make DIY concrete countertops, and felt inspired and crazy enough to attempt it. I even managed to talk my wife into it, although she was skeptical at first.

In June, I finally started building special tables in my garage to support the concrete molds, then measured and assembled the molds shortly afterwards. I rented a mixer and poured the concrete on July 4th weekend. Between the time I poured them and now, I got sidetracked several times, and had some setbacks with tools breaking, (mainly my variable speed grinder which I was using to grind and polish the surface finish)... etc etc.

Well finally after living with plywood countertops for three months, I finished them this weekend and since we had the entire family over for my wife's birthday party today, I had several helping hands to help me carry these beasts into the house and install them.

So here's the link to my photobucket album showing the entire remodel. Sorry the pics are in reverse order but you get the idea.

Anyway, I'm so happy with how the countertops turned out. And even with all the effort, blood, sweat, tears, and dirty filthy mess I made of my garage and myself (you'll see what I mean when you see the pics...), I'd do it again in a heartbeat. In the end it cost thousands less than granite would have, and I now have a 'Wow' factor in my kitchen that granite could NEVER even HOPE to give me on it's best day.

I never attempted to do concrete before, and I feel vindicated that they turned out so cool, because everyone told me it couldnt' be done... and why don't I just get granite. Everyone, including my wife, thought I was totally nuts for even attempting this. But I, being the stubborn mule that I am, stayed the course, determined to make these things work. And boy did they work! The compliments I received from all the people at my party totally vindicated me. Everyone was floored over how cool these countertops are. The same people who questioned how concrete would look and told me I was crazy couldn't stop 'ooh-ing and ah-ing' over them. Yea they still think I'm crazy... and I guess I can't argue with them. hahahahah...

So now my kitchen is nearly complete. I'm going to do a multi-colored, copperized slate tile backsplash to complete the look.

And yes, those copper inlays are meant to mimic the silhouette of Mickey Mouse. My wife and I are big disney fans.... we had our wedding in Walt Disney World last year, so the mickey mouse inlays (there are two of them), are a nod to Mickey. And the blue specs you see are broken pieces of cobalt blue stained glass that I strategically glued to the bottom of the mold before pouring in the concrete. For the seams, I glued pieces of aluminum bar stock to match the stainless steel sink and appliances. And if you notice the angle of the seams mimics the same angle of the transition between the hardwood floor and the ceramic tile. There's a specific photo I took to illustrate this.

Well, anyway, enough talking... here are the pics. Hope ya like'em!

Here is a link that might be useful: My kitchen remodel

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clipped on: 08.08.2006 at 01:46 am    last updated on: 08.08.2006 at 01:47 am

RE: Thermador Induction Cooktops (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: kimba00 on 06.30.2006 at 09:51 pm in Appliances Forum

Bernard,

Your spread sheet is still on Induction Junction only now it's a link (within the title of the post) to your photobucket site which is not only a clearer, easier to read image, but if you make changes to the graph, which, most assuredly you will, Induction Junction would get automatically updated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Induction Junction

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clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 12:10 am    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 12:11 am

Upgraded cans, huge difference - photos

posted by: chiefneil on 06.07.2006 at 01:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had an electrician come by today to install some new recessed cans for me. Turns out he's a lighting specialist and he talked me into upgrading the cheap builder trims in my kitchen to Juno alzac trims. He also swapped out my mix of fluourescent and incandescent bulbs for the GE Edison bulbs. The difference is amazing.

Here's a before shot - you can see the bulbs glaring in your eyes in this photo.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's the after shot with the new trims. Note that the lights are on in this photo, but you can't tell! The colors in the kitchen really pop now, and the lights are significantly brighter - I need to install a dimmer now. The only downside is that the quality of the light seems more directed and less difuse, leading to some slight shadows that I never noticed before; this may be due simply to the fact that the lights are so much brighter and might go away when I install a dimmer.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's an in-between shot. All the lights are on, but you can only tell with the three trims that haven't yet been replaced. BTW, I was sweating bullets (worrying about my granite cracking) when he had to get up on a ladder on my island. I put down some 3/4" plywood and kept a sharp watch to make sure he didn't stand or put the ladder over the overhang.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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clipped on: 06.30.2006 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2006 at 05:47 pm

RE: Old Dog...new tricks? Convection (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: cpovey on 06.18.2006 at 12:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pro cook here.

Rule of thumb is that convection can and should be used for everything EXCEPT for things that raise a lot, like cakes, souffles, pastries, and the like. Biscuits are also an exception, as they come out looking like volcanos, instead of biscuits.

The other rule of thumb is that you can cut 25 degrees OR 10% off non-convection times,but not both. You almost always cut cooking time, as cutting temp really saves nothing.

Convection is really better for things with a crust, like roasts and bread. The moving air dries out the surface (but not the food) slightly, improving the crust. This is why it is not good for things that rise, as the thicker crust inhibits rising.

Another advantage of convection is that you can use more than two racks in an oven. Generally, without convection, you are limited to two racks, as any food on an inner rack would be insulated by the food on the outer racks from radiant heat. This limitation goes away with convection, so you can easily cook as many racks as your oven will hold, all roughly evenly. Great for cookies, but note that you still may need to rotate trays of cookies. They are generally in the oven for such a short period of time that any temperature difference is a big deal to cookies, making one side darker than the others.

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clipped on: 06.18.2006 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2006 at 01:20 pm

RE: one week in... and halfway done! (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: girlwithaspirin on 06.19.2006 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for making me smile, guys. :)

nys, I used the advice of everyone here before starting.

1) Clean with soap and water.
2) Lightly sand, only where needed. (I'm lazy, but the varnish had built up in some places.)
3) Prime with a thin coat of Zinsser Bullseye 123 Deep Base, tinted to match paint color. Let dry for a few hours.
4) Paint with a thin coat of Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd. Do cabinet backs first! Don't paint bottom or top edges. Let dry overnight.
5) Paint fronts. Again, let dry overnight.
6) Hang cabinets. Carefully.
7) Paint bottom/top edges and do any touch-up.
8) Leave them open for as long as you can stand it. This stuff takes forever to cure.

I didn't do two full coats of paint like many people suggested. For one, the Satin Impervo covers amazingly. The dark color helped -- I imagine a light color would require more coats. But also, the thinner the paint, the more it looks like stain. If you glop it on, which I accidentally did in some places, it doesn't look as much like a pro job.

I imagine I'll be touching up for the next few months, though. Whenever the sun hits somewhere new, I notice an area that's a little too thin.

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CABINET PAINTING
clipped on: 06.19.2006 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2006 at 01:43 pm

RE: I think I want induction (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: trailrunner on 05.21.2006 at 05:50 pm in Appliances Forum

We had a nice discussion on smooth top electric vs BTU loss with propane...within that thread was the following that I researched on electric smoothtop digital ribbon technology...it is a very hot nice alternative to induction. I will cut and paste it below...note it is for 36" but when you look up the different ones you will see that there is a very large variety in sizes and components and that a couple have bridge unitsfor your griddle ( it must have a completely smooth contact with cooktop). The only one that is not included that I wish I had done is the Caldera brand. It seems VERY nice and a good alternative too. Happy shopping !!

Can we debate smooth-top electric versus BTU loss for propane
Posted by: trailrunner (My Page) on Tue, May 16, 06 at 10:08

I had started a thread on the "ribbon" high speed electric technology. Yesterday I made a chart to try and sort out all the different specs. I also called Miele and had a nice chat about their "contact griddle" , that is radiant technology. All of the ceran electric tops have a 3 sec response time. The following is my attempt to categorize the data (any errors are mine):
Gaggenau: CK494-615 36"- $2039
7 1/16" = 1800w
4 3/4"-8 1/4 " = 750w- 2200w
5 11/16"-9 7/16" =2200w
7 1/16 " bridge element 7 1/16" by 16" long = 4000w
(1800w/400w/1800w)

Miele KM 451 $1499
2 = 1200w
1 = 2000w
1 = 14004-2200w fits to 10 1/4 " pot (oval shape)
1 700w-1700w fits to 7 " pot

Dacor ETT365 (touch top control)
CERB365 (knobs)
METB365 (glide control) all in the $1700-$1800 range didn't get burner sizes but appear about the same as
as other brands

ETT has 2100w/1800w/1500w/1200w/1000-2400w dual burner

CERB has 2 1800 w/ an 800w bridge (hotter than Gagg)
and 1500w/1200w/1000w-2400w dual
METB has 1200w/1500w/2 1800w w/ 800w bridge as above
and 1000w-2400w dual

WOLF - CT 36E
only brand w/ a 12" triple ring
true simmer on all burners
melt setting on one burner

1- 1050w/2200w/2700w
1- 750w-2200w
1- 1800w
1- 1500w
1 -1200w you'll note that the 750w is not unique

Thermador CEP365Z w/ pan sensor
CET365Z w/ touch control
CEF365 electric front frame all between $1300-$1500 griddle included

1- 1200w
2-1800/400w/1800 bridge ( note lower watt bridge)
1- 2200/750 dual
1 2500/1600//800 triple

VIKING- square burners approx 1200-1300$
1800/800/1800 bridge that is 7 x16" like Gagg unit
2500/1000 dual 6"-9" size pans
2200/750 dual 4 3/4"-8 1/4" pans
1500w 6 1/2"
1200w 6"

And that is pretty much that. I didn't do the Amana, Bosch , GE or Windstar but they are out there too.

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clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 01:44 pm

one week in... and halfway done!

posted by: girlwithaspirin on 06.18.2006 at 01:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, not technically, since the countertops won't arrive for another two weeks. But here's a midway pic. The chocolate cabs aren't for everyone, but I'm just so happy with how they neutralized the ugly peach floor.

Before...

Halfway...

The clutter will go once it's all done. Other changes to come... Silestone Capri Limestone counters (I finally decided!), a D-bowl stainless sink from eBay, Price Pfister Parisa pullout, lighting, paint and some copper/terra cotta accents to make the floor seem intentional. Oh, and I'm considering replacing some of the wood doors with aluminum/glass from Element Designs -- specifically, the two on either side of the glass block, and the two in the middle under the big window.

Any other thoughts are more than welcome.

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Benj Moore bitter chocolate paint
clipped on: 06.19.2006 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2006 at 01:46 pm

GE Profile/Monogram DW Sound Levels

posted by: dkb1105 on 04.29.2006 at 07:37 pm in Appliances Forum

People have asked for this information.

GE QuietPower Sound levels:

V - 53db
VI - 51db
VII - 47db

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clipped on: 06.14.2006 at 02:59 am    last updated on: 06.14.2006 at 03:00 am

Kitchen Progress Photos - Plate Rails!

posted by: robin_d on 06.10.2006 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, my GC started installing the plate rails today. He'll finish on Monday (hopefully), including the door and window moldings, but it's coming together. I matched the trim color to the woodwork in the rest of the house, and for some reason I didn't realize how much darker it is than the cabs... DH says that we'll just have to darken the cabs a bit. Yeah, right - maybe in a couple of years. We need to clean up some drywall mud along the cab/trim junction, etc. but I think it's beginning to look like something!

Looking through the Dining Room door

There's still so much work to be done, but I hope to have the appliances in by the end of the week.

Thank you for letting me share.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Remodelling Photos, Before to Present

NOTES:

red oak cabinets
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 01:07 pm