Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.


2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.


3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...
4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...


• Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.


• Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
• Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.


• Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).


• Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)


• Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags


• Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels


• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels


• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels


• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords


• Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot


• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

Or just find a good quality frameless line and enjoy the much higher quality finishes and better all around storage that they can provide for you. No shop finish will ever stand up like a factory finish will do.

Here is some more info as requested:

Main sink faucet : kohler Vinnata (brushed nickel)
Prep sink faucet : Rohl Country collection (satin nickel)
Pendant : Sonneman Roxy Drum Pendant 16" PN
Cabinets: Omega - Door -Umbrell ; Maple painted in Pearl Opaque finish on perimeter and Cherry wood in Chestnut stain on island
Floor : Porcelain tile -fioranese travertine in silver matte finish
Backsplash : Porcelain tile - Vallelunga Carrara
Pulls : Restoration Hardware - Lugamo PN
Knobs : Restoration Hardware - Hanson PN

I don' know the grout color as I left that up to the tile guy. I think it might be light pewter, but I am not 100% sure.

The island is pretty large. It sits three comfortably. It's about 10 1/2 feet long. I wouldn't go any larger, as it is almost impossible to fine a slab large enough without doing a seem.

To the left of the fridge/micro wall is my butler's pantry. I've attached photos. We do have a walk in pantry but it's in the mud room.

The crown molding didn't come from cabinet company. It's actually the crown molding that's in the entire first floor of the house. As the cabinets went up, we realized how difficult it would be to transition the crown molding from omega to the ones in the rest of the kitchen. So we decided to use the ones form the house and paint it the same color as the cabinets.

Here are some more photos. Please excuse the lack of window treatments as that is next on a long list of to dos.

And I try very hard to avoid a sink or stove in the island because neither of them is an interesting thing to look or smell or from which to be splattered. "Turn that disposer on again; I'm gettin to like it."

And I would never design a kitchen without a window because it's a space that is usually used more than the other space especially in daylight hours.

Otherwise the plan is fine.

kitchen

home

Cabinets: Custom inset shaker style by Dutchwood Cabinetmakers painted Sail White
Hardware: Westerly pulls by Amerock in Satin Nickel, Hafele butt hinges in Satin Nickel
Paint: Walls: Benjamin Moore_Coastal Fog // Trim: Benjamin Moore _Linen White
Tile: Dal-Tile Rittenhouse 3x6 in Biscuit
Countertops: Madreperla Quartzite
Range: 36” Wolf, all gas
Hood: Vent-a-hood
Refrigerator: 36” SubZero French Door
Dishwasher: Re-used KitchenAid
Sink: Franke KBX11028 with sink grid
Faucet: Rohl/Perrin & Rowe Traditional Bridge Faucet
Filter Faucet: Kohler Traditional Wellspring Beverage Faucet
Filter: Multi-Pure
Recessed lights: Halo 4” incandescent
Pendant lights: Restoration Hardware, 8” Benson pendant in Satin Nickel
Undercabinet lighting: Kichler Xenon

Before:

After:

More photos are on photobucket, if they ask for a guest password, it is Gardenweb.

This post was edited by ArchitectMamma on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 7:46

The proper way to design a house is to alternate studies of the interior with studies of the exterior (almost never seen on this forum), incorporating discoveries from one into the other, repeating the process until both interior and exterior are in harmony with one another.

Worse, it appears (if we are to belive the plan as shown), the site amenities and view have not be taken into account, nor has advantage been taken to get natural light (and passive energy) into the house. As a result, this is going to be a dark house with little slits (called windows) to let only a bit of light here and there into the interior.

I know this has been a fun exercise, but if you only have one chance to "get it right", you should find an architect (who is trained and experienced in design) immediately and work closely with him or her. Start over and start soon to get it right.

Best of luck with your project.

To the right of my refrigerator is an oversized walk-in pantry. There are temporary shelves in there now... someday soon we'll have cabinets and nice shelving and I'll share those pics as well :)

Man-made full thickness Arriscraft stone, Indiana limestone belt course and Century concrete bricks. Photo: Heather Joy Investments Ltd.

Van

Top Knobs Asbury - Nice solid feel and weight, actual cup part is nice and "thick". Fake screws on the front. Screws in from backside, comes with 2 different length screws. The top is slightly arched, not flat across. Because it screws in from the backside, these female "receivers" limit the amount of space under the pull for your fingers (for me, 2 fingers max), this was why we didn't go with these.

Van Dyke's Restorers "Solid Brass Bin Cabinet Pull" - Nice finish. Underside of cup was rough/bumpy, maybe it's cheaply cast? I don't know, but this was the major turn off for me. Real screws (from front).

Horton's Brasses BN-3 - Really nice finish. Tabs where the screw holes are seem more "separate" in relation to the cup part than the holes on the other two brands did (those seemed more integral to the pull instead of "tacked on"), but perhaps the Horton one is more traditional. Easy for me to get 3 fingers under the pull. Not as heavy as the Top Knobs, and the cup pull seems traditionally "thin" if you know what I mean (like the really old ones do). Very sleek, and can't stress how nice the brushed/satin finish is. Real screws (from front).

Anyways, I just wanted to say that I couldn't be happier with the service and quality of the horton brasses BN-3 bin pull! I just ordered 14 more for my kitchen. Also, when you order 12 or more, there's a roughly 10% discount which I hadn't seen advertised anywhere.

Below is a pic of the winning bin pull installed on a top drawer in my 75% done kitchen.

The end of my fridge has something that comes directly from GW. Thanks for the idea LAXSupermom!

The sink is 16" diameter. It works great and fits perfectly in the corner. I wouldn't want it any smaller, but at the same time I have found it big enough to hold my colanders and wash produce nicely.

The wood bar is one of my favorite things also. It is oak (not QS) stained to match the rest of the wood.

The laundry room colors are for my husband. The maroon tiles are from Sonoma and the paint is BM orange appeal . . . . he's a VT Hokie. :)

I should also mention that we decided to get the Korner King for our lazy susan. We really like how organized it is. Granted, the construction means that you may not get as much actual sq. in. in flat space to put things, but it is easy to use and get into. You do have to be careful with installation so the drawers don't bump your hinges and my apron front sink almost got in the way. Here's a couple shots.

My feature wall cabinets have arrived and been installed. They are Shiloh inset in "vintage" cherry with their Sundance finish. Flush toe kick since this isn't a prep or clean up space. The countertop is 2" thick walnut with an eased edge and oil finish. The rear of the glass front cabinet will have a mirror installed. Eventually, these cabinets will have unlacquered brass knobs and long bar pulls from Colonial Bronze.

The fridge is an Electrolux Icon and I will tell you, it's a big step down in quality from a SubZero (which is what it is replacing) but I really needed to resize the fridge to improve kitchen function. On the bright side, we do have chilled water again. And ice.

So far, my contractor has been a dream and the project actually looks and flows like it is being handled by a professional. I am so pleased. It is such a relief after all the awful contractor experiences I have had. I can't wait til the beams and ceiling are painted in. Also, we have to blend in the floor finish since these cabinets aren't as deep as the "custom" cabinets they are replacing. Once that gets done, we can install the shoe molding and the bottom fridge grill.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size & configuration of your cabinets and drawers.

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.


2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.


3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...
4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...


• Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.


• Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.


5. If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
• Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.


• Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).


• Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)


• Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

Sample storage map: http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x108/Buehl/2008-2009 Remodel/Kitchen/20 Designs/Storage Plans/StorageMapping-CooktopWall.jpg

This process and the resultant "map" will not only help you to "see" how things will fit, but the map will also help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy map for everyone to use when attempting to find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags


• Preparation--sink & trash/recyclables--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels


• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW (and near a water source)--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels


• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone]


• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware


• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords


• Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard, pens/pencils, sticky notepaper

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--tea/coffeemaker (and near a water source)--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot


• Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar]


• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks, leashes, medicines (if no children in the home), etc.

Overlapping of Zones

Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap...

• Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as landing space for the range/cooktop. (It is strongly advised you have enough room for emergency landing space on both sides of a range/cooktop.)


• Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones and between the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink.

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

SPECIAL NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

Some helpful threads:

forestfire..please help me with my lists [Missing In Action as of 5/16/10...if anyone has saved it, please let me know by emailing me via "My Page"]

List of stuff in kitchens?

What should go within easy reach of the cooktop?

What goes where?

Reloading the new kitchen, any tips where things should go?

Only one lower cabinet...would you do it?

href="http://s1190.beta.photobucket.com/user/ppbenn/library/" target="_blank">

>

Have you considered Quartzite? It's a natural stone and it's fairly bulletproof.

Here are some white examples:

Firsthouse_mp and I have White Princess:

Firsthouse_mp's island

My counters

Sochi's Luna di Luca

There are many others.

Here is a thread about marble look-alike countertops that has a few quartzite and then other materials.

White is great if you like the look. We love it and the counters make our kitchen.

Everything is Chrome. I am sure the kids probably didn't need thermostatic control showers and honestly can't remember why I chose that. It has been almost 2 years since I picked these out so rough in was done and I am stuck, oh well. They will be nice but probably could have saved some money there. I am so excited to see these things installed, we are getting ready to do finish plumbing in about 30 days. Keep your fingers crossed.

Here is our plan with the separate top door--

The main cabinet is 26" and the top is 10" although actually higher inside the top cabinet. I don't want main cab to look too "squatty" but it doesn't in the plan pictures.

I see some people do not do a separate door for the top and just use all one door- sometimes with glass at top panel instead of being solid.

Wondering which I should do? We have 8' ceilings so I thought we might gain a couple of inches of cabinet by doing one door instead of 2 separate doors.
I believe then we wouldn't need the 2" rail in between.

Here is the 2 doors...: (or are these actually stacked?)
katieob's old kitchen (anyone know if her ceilings were 8 feet???)

Here is all one door but top section can still look separate
beekeeper- (she has higher ceilings)

without glass, but same idea- you can do bottom solid and top glass

katieob's new kitchen (LOVE!)

Thoughts??? I have to let cab maker tonight if I'm changing to one door or not! lol

Cabinets-Dutchwood beaded inset, shaker style with colonial trim small detail in door frame. Color is BM White Dove and BM Stone Harbor Gray.

Wall color BM Edgecomb gray.
Hardware-Appliance pulls, Cliffside Industries-Artisan series. Pulls- restoration Hardware-gilmore. Glass knobs- RH also. Latches-smaller ones from rejuvination Hardware. All in Polished nickel.
Appliances-36" Subzero( it's the unit on the left when your looking at it) the pantry is a mirror image of this on the right side.It's fully integrated with the frig on top and 2 freezer draws below.
Wolf 36" Gas range with griddle in middle.
Dishwasher- Miele fully integrated with panel on it, I believe it's the Futura Classic.
Microwave-cheap little whirpool in the appliance garage just for heating stuff up- it's great!
Wolf blower and hood insert-900CFM's.Wolf and Subzero ran a special where you save like 1500.00 by getting a mix of their stuff.

Sink- Shaws original farm sink in white
Faucet-ROHL country bridge series with soap disp. and sprayer in PN.I also got the extension spout from what I learned from this forum.
Counters- White Macubus- Calacutta Quartzite. Looks alot like marble and it's very durable, won't etch, i love them they look like glass in the light.
I had an original piece of cabinetry in wood like a pecan color with a cocoa glaze behind the eating area.So there are 3 cabinet finishes. I like how the touch of wood warms up the cool colors.
window seat cushion covers-ETSY, love them and they are very reasonable.
Stools-clearance from Home Decorators Collection, I think they were only like 65.00 or 70.00 each!! Nice touch of color and great price, also the no back doesnt crowd the space.
Dimensions- somebody asked for this, but I am going to estimate. i believe the island is 3 1/2 wide by 6 feet.the sink wall is like 11 feet. the range wall is like 10 1/2 feet. the gray wall of cabinets ifs like 11 1/2 feet long.Not sure how big the kitchen is exactly. But I think there is enough space. We left 43" from sink to island. and there is like 53" from island to the gray cabinetry. the only tighter area is the island to range, I believe that is only 40".
Sconces next to hood-hudson Valley- Monroe wall sconce in PN.
my other lighting is on backorder- It's from Circa lighting- I will post pics of that and the backspash when it's done.
Pantry has the rollout draws with a cork board inside for calandars and stuff.We did the Revashelf for post and pans in the blind corner. we did dividers for pyrex.we did the 2 tier divider with a knife block below.
And lastly the Sheves that everyone seems to like. Funny, I had a vision of getting these rustic shelves on that wall to warm up the space. Couldn't find anything, thought I would have to get them made, then I found these from West Elm, and they were on sale! They are very nice in person. the wood is rustic looking and they have nice black brackets to tie into the black door that i had to have because it looked great in Katie's kitchen! LOL!
everything I learned was from this forum, so many thanks, I will post some more pics and more to come when it's done..thanks again for looking! Michelle

Here are some options:

Ticor S805 (comes with a sink grid)
Exterior Dimensions: 15" x 18-1/2" x 7"
Interior Dimensions: 13" x 16-1/2" x 7"

Ticor S3630
Exterior Dimensions: 16" x 17-1/2"
Interior Dimensions: 14" x 15-1/2"

Ticor S3640
Exterior Dimensions: 17-1/4" x 17-1/2"
Interior Dimensions: 15-1/4" x 15-1/2"

KOHLER K-3345-NA (You can find it a lot cheaper elsewhere)
Exterior dimensions: 17-1/2" x 17-1/2"
Interior dimensions: 15-3/4" x 15-3/4"

Kindred KSS4U-9
Exterior dimensions: 17-1/8" x 19-1/8" x 9"
Interior dimensions: 15" x 17" x 9"

Elkay ELU1716
Exterior dimensions: 16" x 17-1/2" x 7-1/2"
Interior dimensions: 17-1/2" x 19" x 7-1/2"

Some notes from my architect on building a comfortable banquette...

Seat - angle down 1" to make it more comfortable to sit and to prevent the seat cushions from sliding out. Height.. Plan on 4" thick foam cushions that is comfortable to sit on. So the height of the firm surface should be around 14 inches or so to accommodate this cushion. The seat should extend around 5-6inches beyond the adjoining cabinets to allow the people sitting to tuck their feet under. This makes the seat more comfortable for the sitters. If the space under the bench is hollow, you do not need this lip.

Back - angle back 3 inches to make it comfortable to lean back. You don't want a straight back. The back cushions are a good idea and should be around 3 inches. Make sure that there is a wood lip on the back surface to tuck the back cushion under. This angled back and the cushion will also need the extra depth from the seat so take that into account. She recommended minimum 22 inch depth after accommodating the 3 inch for angled back. If this seat will be used for kids to hang out and play or if at anytime the sitters will sit cross legged on the cushions, deeper seat is needed.

Loose cushions.. They look pretty but are not comfortable when several people are sitting.

Table.. She recommended a trestle table to make it easy to get in and out. She said an oval table would only accommodate 1 or 2 people to sit and eat at the table..so if eating is a goal for the banquette to use a rectangular table with 29 inches or so height.
Hope this helps.

I have a ceiling fan in my laundry room and LOVE it. I often hang some of my nicer clothes up to dry as opposed to using the dryer or hanging them outside on a line. It dramatically increases the speed at which the clothes dry without the use of the dryer and without the possibility of bird poop on my clothes.

I'm going to post a few pictures sequentially because this seems to be the easiest way.

Perimeter counters are soapstone.
Island counter is white quartzite.
Island paint is SW porpoise.
Cabinet paint is BM revere pewter.
Range is Bluestar (love it!)
Kitchenaid dishwasher and fridge.

So nice to have a kitchen again!

momo7 - the kitchen sink window is the Andersen casement - CN35. I don't have the exact measurement with me, but I can get it when I run out to the house again. Here's a straight shot below. We are hoping to be in before school starts (end of August)....but I still have lots to do! Hopefully we'll pull it off!

mommyto4boys - congrats on starting..keep us updated with pics! The floors are from Appalachian Woods in Stuarts Draft, VA. They are the Antique Oak Beam Sawn product. We went with a mix of red/white oak 4.5" - 6.5" random width. I absolutely love them! We will finish with 3 coats of waterlox - 2 regular and the final as their satin finish. Let me know if I missed anything! I also did our stair treads in the same thing along with the stair railings. I can't wait til they are finished!

Here is a link that might be useful: Appalachian Woods

Also, if you are already AT the point where you need an elevator to get upstairs and your doctor will sign an order that it is a medical necessity, you may be able to write off a portion of the cost as a medical expense.

Below is a link that outlines the requirements.

Unfortunately DH and I are still in our fifties and our doctors are still pushing us to climb stairs as often as possible for exercise. So, tho we both have knee issues, neither of our doctors would sign the letter. I'm thinking of switching to a new doctor. LOL!

Here is a link that might be useful: tax benefits of a home elevator

so hopefully i can answer all of your questions. the easy one first: my ceilings are 9' tall. the island, FYI is 10'x6'. it's hard to reach the center to clean so i'm wishing i didn't spec it as deep, but c'est la vie. it is what it is and i still believe i needed the size to fill the space. another aside: you can't see it in the layout, but my turbo chef oven is located under counter in the island directly across from dishwasher #2, facing the windows.

note: the walk from the range to the refrigerator is 8-10 steps, depending if i'm standing right or left. it's definitely closer than it appears in the drawing. it's a large space but i the zones makes it work nicely.

this is a general layout of the kitchen. the dimensions are 22' wide x 17.5' (i think) deep. the breakfast room is off to the right and is 14' square, with a porch right outside for outdoor dining. formal dining room across the hall, other side of fridge/freezer wall.

this is the fridge/freezer wall. the center panels open up to reveal toaster oven, microwave (coming soon), coffee maker. also kept here will be cereal, bread, etc, ...your basic breakfast items, plus pop corn, et al. silverware is out and scattered waiting for the cabinet maker to come back and install drawer inserts. fridge is shown open on the left, freezer is on the right. here is it is in the closed, and open positions:

i'm not finished setting this up yet but to get a better idea of my zones, this is the baking cabinet. it houses -or will house my mixers, food processor, etc.; bowels, condiments, baking pans and all things baking will reside in the four drawers below. they're not set up yet so sorry no pics. the baking sheets will live in a base cabinet just to the right.

some of the shots are old, but i will update when i give my reveal -hopefully sometime within the next four years. interesting to note: i was not menopausal when we started this project, september 29, 2009. i guess it finally through me over the edge.

It is difficult to tell from the pictures (especially the dining room), but the wallcoverings add a lot of texture to the rooms. I feel that it makes the house feel warmer.

The hardwoods are Carlisle 8" character-grade walnut. They have a stain and tongue oil.

Here is a link that might be useful: cliffside

Dutch Wood is family business. They are great to deal with. They are in Myerstown, PA.

Finestra, yours are the pale blue cabinets right? Did you know Jason is going to do an island in the showroom in that color?

My cabinets are full overlay "with little cabinet showing" is how they are described. They have a little groove need the edges of the doors. Lots of things are included in their base price (plain glass is not an upcharge, utensil drawer included, tilt outs under the sink, the insides of the cabinets are painted if you do painted cabinets, and so on). I was also able to ask for other Amerock hardware that he didn't have on display and I got it without an upcharge.

I have a few sets of 3- 15" upper cabinets in a row. My old cabinets were framed and these sets of 3 cabinets would connect with each other. The frameless cabinets need something to connect the door to, so these sets of 3 cabinets have to be one set of 2 beside one single cabinet. There is a "wall" between them that the framed cabinets did not need. You would have a similar issue with bottoms if you had three connecting bottom cabinets, but most are going all or mostly all drawers on the bottom so that is unlikely to happen these days.

Its a fairly minor "con". You get the most benefit from frameless out of bottom cabinets where you have drawers. It might be a decent idea to have frameless on the bottom, but framed and/or inset on the uppers if you think that would look good to you.

Brizo:

Rohl Triflow 2 handle (which means one handle is the filtered water and the other handle is the hot and cold--took me too long to figure that out.)

I likely will make purchases locally, with a 25% discount or so. But I've been price shopping online just to check (and maybe with a call you can get better pricing?) - but the irawoods.com website looks pretty good -- large selection and good pricing. (I have no affiliation, just found them through google and other sources.)

I agree, I like the Sanagloss feature, but a lot of folks on Gardenweb have said they can't tell a huge difference (but maybe I've missed some posts on this?) -- let me know what you hear.

We are hoping to start construction soon. Good luck with your project, hope it goes well! I think the look of the Lloyd will be perfect for your reno :-)

First of all, thank you SOO much to everyone on this site who was a huge help, inspiration and motivation. I very much appreciate the many thoughtful, creative people who gave me advice along the way.

I am sure I will forget some details so feel free to ask questions. We did an entire first floor remodel (mostly cosmetic) so there was a lot going on.

Cabinets- Shiloh, inset beaded soft white with slate highlighting and brushing. Tons of details on these, everything is upgraded and pull out or soft glide, etc. They were our biggest expense.

Kitchen Table- Antique tables made daily. Chairs painted and distressed from my old set

New Windows (expanded in kitchen, replaced in entire house)- OKNA. And very glad I went with casement in kitchen in the end as I wasn't going to originally.

Pendants- Mercury glass, shades of light

Range- GE Monogram 36 inch dual fuel with grill (love it)

Sink- Shaw 3018 (love it), also got the stainless grid, love it too.

Prep Sink- Rohl Round 18 inch with Tapmaster (tapmaster nice but not end of world if not)

Faucets- same for both sinks, Delta Leland single hole

Air switches- from home depot (very frustrating. Don�t place these near a faucet handle!)

Floors- Character walnut random width, distressed edges,

Waterlox finish, Blackford and Sons. LOVE!

Vent- GE, free with range 1200 CFMs, loud but works and free is free

Undercabinet lights- seagull ambiance lighting on dimmer, great lights

Disposals- Evolution and Evolution compact, no trouble

Dishwasher- Meihl, some trouble here. Had a flood already! Due to filling the soap dispenser up with soap, apparently a BIG no-no.

Backsplash- subway, Emser cape code in artisan cream crackle ordered from Studio Tile in Fl for around 14/ft, Above range, not sure, some small mosaic from a local store.

Hardware- cabinets, hafele antique black, doors ordered online , Emtek black ordered from simpsons hardware

Paint- Ben Moore (have to look up colors, forget)

Warming drawer- Kitchenaid (used every day!)

Microwave- Sharp MW Drawer (fine)

Fridge- Samsung with convertible fridge drawer (can be used for wine, kids snacks, deli meats,etc) (like it)

Wine Fridge- Uline Captain (some trouble here, two repair visits)

Railings- Iron panels and railing elements ordered from

Kings Architectural Metals and welded locally (love the result)

General Contractor- Tom Christie, Quality Craft Carpentry in Northern Virginia. An absolute doll and has an amazing team. We cannot recommend him and his work highly enough and thankful to our friends who referred him!

We also replaced all our dishes, silverware, glassware, baking and cookware- love all the new stuff!

I think that's it! It took about 4 months of real work for the renovation then some minor details dragged on for a long time.

Overall we LOVE the new kitchen and the new house overall. It's amazingly functional and comfortable and we are really happy with it. Thanks again to everyone for their great advice and support!

From Kitchen Remodel

Let me know if these links dont work, I moved to Picasa and never tried to post from it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Creamy French Classic

I have drawers that aren't quite as wide as yours, ranging from 17"-39". For all but the 39", I ended up using only 1 pull which was centered. Since I have all framed doors (no slabs), the placements were all the same. For a more uniformed and less fussy look, I used only 2 sizes: 3.5" and 6.5" pulls, though actual end-to-end lengths were slightly longer. (Also, I really couldn't afford anything longer than the 6".) I only used the 3.5" pulls on my cabinet doors that were short (over fridge, under sink, tray, etc).

Btw, Breezy... your pulls/kitchen played an integral part in my final handle choice and selection, even though outcome is slightly different! :)

2-pulls for 39" top drawer:

A 5" pull on a 42" drawer seems out of scale to me. Better options are two of the 5" pulls per drawer like Buehl did above, which can get too busy if you're going for a simpler style, or choosing a longer pull. Personally, I prefer one pull per drawer, but I'm sensitive to visual messiness.

I've got a ton of other pics showing the various handle sizes near each other if you're interested. How cool for you to be at the hardware stage. Won't be long now!

As far as cabinets, there is no question that if I were you, I would get custom cabinets since you are close enough to PA to do it. My cabinet maker is great and will go to Central NJ. His cabinets are absolutely gorgeous (solid wood, dove tail construction, etc.) and his CAD drawings are wonderful (and don't cost extra) and his price was extremely reasonable- your $25,000 will go very far. I know at least a few other people on here have used them and been happy.

Dutch Wood Kitchens
1317 Hilltop Road
Myerstown, PA 17067-1760
(717) 933-5133

To me, well-scrubbed = well-loved = desireable, on some limbic brain level. Shine is a hook.

1) buy a hood liner with an internal blower mounted inside the hood. This would all come from Modern-Aire

2) buy a hood liner but with an inline blower (the kind that mounts in the attic). You would get a Modern Aire hood and then purchase the blower and needed accessories. You CAN, but do not have to buy the blower from Modern Aire. This is what I did. I chose to use a Fantech blower and silencer based on my prior experience with Fantech. It happens that this is a blower that Jeff at Modern Aire also liked (and I'd certainly recommend it--it's the FKD10XL blower and the LD10 silencer).

I ended up buying the Fantech from MA even though Jeff suggested I look online for it. I do think I could have saved several hundred dollars in cost and shipping had I done that, but I was on a tight timeline, and did not want to take the risk of buying equipment from an unknown internet vendor and finding out that I got the wrong thing. So, I paid closer to list price and shipping from Cal to Georgia, but had the luxury of Jeff telling me exactly what I needed.

3) hood liner plus external blower (mounts on roof). Jeff had suggested the Abakka low profile roof mount unit. We elected to go inline.

Regarding the infinitely variable, remotely mounted controls: this is a feature I love about the Modern Aire. Two advantages: the continuously variable speed control allows you to adjust the fan speed exactly to what you need. That's particularly useful (versus for example the Vent a Hood we have at the lake) when you want a very low setting--say just simmering something. The VAH even at low is annoyingly loud. The MA hood, with an external fan and silencer, should be close to inaudible on a very low setting.

Having the switches for fan and lights on the wall is also nice. I'm tall enough that to see the three switches on my VAH hood I have to bend over and then crane my neck to look into the hood. Contrast that to reaching to hit the switch on the wall next to the range. A little point, but a nice plus with hoods that allow remote location.

Again, advantage for me with MA has been that one person has helped make all my choices. I tortured Jeff for weeks with emails with all kinds of questions which he patiently answered. They made sure I ordered all the requisite accessories for the blower (backdraft damper, clamps, rheostat, etc). And they were able to build a hood which was exactly to my specs--we went with a 64'' width, NOT a standard hood width, to go over our 55'' Lacanche range.

Again, I sound like a MA crony, and I'm not, I have NO personal interest in them!! But I have had a very good experience with them. I am confident other companies can do something similar, but I greatly prefer dealing with a small company like MA or Independent or Prestige rather than trying to get customer svc from a huge company like Broan. Or, if my assessment is correct, from your clueless appliance company.

HTH

(my hidey-hole is on the left)

Here is a link that might be useful: tapmaster 1756

re: the linen closet: I think it would be more handy to access it from the hall. However, if it opens to the hall at the left, then it will be deeper front to back and narrower side to side, so things in the back might be harder to see. That made me think of an idea I saw on the decorating forum that I really liked: they turned a regular linen closet into a combo cabinet/drawers set up:

I think the drawers would make it easier to retrieve things that are stored down low. You could consider roll out shelves for the upper part (unfortunately I know I'm talking about more money...) The narrower doors won't take up as much space with door swing. Plus I think it looks really nice. :)

LavendarLass, large porches are not something that really works in the Pacific NW. Everytime I spend sometime in people's houses with a large porch or a house that does not get any natural light, I find myself kind of down after a few days.

We have very short days for 6 months of the year due to being at 48th paralle. We need all the natural light that we can get during our winter.

You need the South wall to have as many windows as possible for the interior heat gain in the winter and for the natural light. If you use the south wall for the porch, which will not be used in the winter, your interior in the winter will be awful. (I don't know how your house is sited on the lot.)

If you must have a porch, I would put the porch on the North and West side of the house. West side porch will shield the strong afternoon sun from the house in the summer. Since the winter days are short, it will not impact the interior as much. You need the East side and South side to have as many windows as possible. I like having East light into the kitchen for breakfast.

To repeat liriodendron, in the PNW where the sun really matter (and more northern parts of USA), the long rectangular shape with the house facing S/N on the long axis is the best shape to let light into the house. This is why the newer modern houses are often long rectangular shaped rather than square. I like well done modern architecture because it really pays attention to the light and its relationship to how we live. Most houses do not do this.

I am currently looking for a house. The first thing I look at is how the house is sited on the lot and how much natural light gets. Other things maybe able to be changed somewhat... Unfortunately, how much light that the house gets is NOT easily fixed. Your house is one of those that I would find too gloomy to be in due to the large porches covering many of the exterior windows. You have to remember that the house has to work first, then you add the porch where it will not detract from the house, not the other way around...

Let me know if you want me to see if I can identify the size/brand/quantity of the hinges...I'm not near them right now.

We had to trim the bottom of it after we added the area rug, so keep that in mind.

From finire

From finire

Billy

Microwave in cabinet, open

Microwave in cabinet, closed

Allows easy access when door is opened, while on rare occasions where we're entertaining etc we can close door and it's invisible.

And it's far superior to any built in MW--a terrible idea, they are overpriced, and near impossible to replace when they inevitably fail. And they contain the same "guts" as any $200 Sharp or Panasonic off the shelf unit, as these two companies are the only manufacturers worldwide.

A huge thank you to everybody on this forum who helped graciously with advice, photos, experience & info. What an incredible resource this is. Shout outs to Erikanh & marthavila for hood help, willowdecor for tile, all the stoners, and many more.

We moved in last week-bottom trim on fridge & dw are still missing, excuse the messy bottoms.

I'll be happy to provide details if anyone wants them.

Thanks for looking!

Marble Close Up

Soapstone Close Up

If you need ice for drinks, the rabbit ice may not be the best selection. Although I love the ice for a soda or tea, mixed drinks need a harder cube so they don't water down. Also, ice buckets, coolers, beer tubs, etc. need bigger cubes or the ice turns into water too quickly.

Although we aren't huge liquor drinkers, we didn't want to buy or make ice to have on hand anytime a friend wanted a scotch and water . . .

Just some things to think about.

Option 1: not as dramatic a bit more soothing, does not have as much as the orange/brown "rust like" spots, it:

option 2: I love the white dramatic veining on top, but I am not as fond of the orange/brown spots and it seems a bit more dramatic. (not necessarily a bad thing), and not as nuetral.

I have until tomorrow to decide. The original look I wanted was the classic white inset with marble like quartzite. We did find some mcaubus but would need 2 slabs so it was too much money. This is also a quartzite, and more expensive per sq. ft, but the slab is larger and we would only need one, so it comes out cheaper (this is what I told my hubby).

The lighting is a bit different for each photo and the top one does have some of the white veining on top just not as dramatic.

We had this situation due to the way our architect did the staircase in our house. We have 10 ft ceilings, and all of our doors and cased openings are 8'. The front doors are 6'8" with a transom on top. It looks perfectly correct on the exterior, but bugged dh when he first saw it. No one has noticed it and I think it looks fine. It just had to be this way. I suppose we could have done away with the transom and had taller, arch-topped doors, but I really love the transom. We get lots of compliments on the doors,

Here is the exterior:

The hafele are supposed to work only for frameless cabinets but our cabinet maker was able to modify easily to work for our framed one.

If you want to grab the photo to keep in your own files, I have found that you do this step into a GW post, then hit preview, then right click it and do "save as". Then, get rid of the post you started.

I often do a Test Post as the subject, but they never go any further than the preview button.

Hope this helps.

Oldbat2be--thanks, that 's nice. We are doing a dark oak this time on the floor throughout the house. I will really miss the comfort of the cork.

Afterthought---I typed this message. Then hit "Preview Message" and a full page Activa ad comes up. I can't get beyond it!!!! I sit there and wait but it doesn't end! I'm trying again...

Waterlox is a tung oil based product mixed with other stuff that makes is hard and "build" with multiple applications rather than just soak into the wood like true tung oil wood. We mixed our first coat of Waterlox with stain for a darker color on the floors and I am applying it on the trim after a conventional apply stain, then wipe off process. However, you can just use the Waterlox without stain for a lighter look. It will give a slight amber appearance to the wood however. Our floors have 2 coats original (first coat mixed with 1 part Minwax walnut stain to 5 parts Waterlox) and the 3rd coat is Waterlox, satin sheen.

Finishing our floor was once of the easiest diy projects that my husband and I did on this build. We had no experience with floor finishing and it was very easy for us, so I am sure an experienced, understanding installer should have no problems. If you want more detail on our application process, just let me know.

Here is a shot of the floors:

We have plenty of space in our mudroom at 8'x12'. We opted not to section off our cubbies to allow for greater use of the space. Ours is very similar to your inspiration pic above but without the dividers and we have 6 baskets on the open shelf. We also added a set of tall cabinetry that houses a concealed print center & office/school supply storage in that space.

Our laundry is 8'x8'8". We incorporated alot of organization in our laundry. We had the cabinet guy install 3-2can full height trash pullouts in the laundry as concealed hampers. All laundry is sorted as soon as it is brought into the laundry room into the appropriate bin. When the bin is full, you just dump it in the washer--a full bin is exactly 1 load! We also have a large sink, plenty of counter space, plenty of cabinet storage & a place for hanging clothes. While we don't have a pull down ironing board, I do have a spot for my collapsing ironing board that is out of the way.

Our pantry is located under our U-shaped staircase and is huge--it houses all the canned goods, dry goods, kids' snacks, cereals, Costco sized paper goods, etc + my cake decorating supplies & pans, crock pot & there is a spot for my swiffer, swiffer vac & broom. The pantry is an L-shape measuring 3'8" x 9'4" at the entry down the long leg of the 'L' & 8' x 4'6" down the short leg.

Hope this helps!

We have an elevator shaft built in the center of our stairs. The pit is in the conrete slab of the basement and conduit for the wiring is run. Until we need the elevator, we have stacked closets.

The main floor closet is an oddity that only a family with three type 1 diabetics would think of but perhaps all should have: an infirmary. In the infirmary is a counter, upper cabinets for storing medicine, vitamins, and diabetes supplies,and sharps containers, an under counter fridge, a waste basket and a first aid cabinet. When I lopped the end of my finger off at Christmas time, it was nice to be able to sit on a stool and have my better half patch me up with all the tools at hand and no worries about bleeding on anything important. It's also nice to have all that mess out of the kitchen and bathroom cabinets.

The other odd thing we have is a sound proofed band room. It has been great. All the teenagers want to hang out there.

As Mythreesonsnc pointed out, running conduit now is so important. We have two 2 inch pvc pipes running from the furnace room in the basement all the way to the attic just in case all the low voltage wiring isn't enough or becomes obsolete. We have conduit under the drive, under the back yard, out to the back yard in case we ever put in a pool and want to use the geothermal to heat the pool, extra circuits run out and capped out in case we want to do any landsape lighting, etc, etc. We even had a dish tv guy come and pick the best spot for a dish and ran conduit and cable out there, in case we want to fire the cable company.

GreenDesigns, your comments are well taken, but I want to point out that not all humans are the same size. I thought our 8 foot doors were ridiculous and was considering putting in 6'8" doors with a transom when my 6'5" son came bounding into the kitchen in our old house and cracked his head on the header of the door frame. It was like having a stunned giant octupus in the doorway. The 8 ft. doors fit him much better. I actually have some photos of him standing in the frame of a 6'8" door and a 7'0" in one of my blog entries. Some of us have to build for giants. Including longer step treads to accomodate a size 14.

Here is a link that might be useful: scroll down to the end of the post

I'll tell you another trick I used to make my bar stools slide across the floor easier and not scratch the wood once I touched them up. I used silicone spray on the floor and it took away the friction. Now mind you - don't over spray the silicone in a walkway because it makes the floors VERY slippery! I learned that the hard way.

I used silicone spray that I have on hand for my drapery business, but I would imagine WD 40 would work too.

Hope this helps

Now for the details (if I can remember them all!)

The cabinets are custom cabinets from a shop here in Atlanta called The Town Carpenter.
The cabinets are painted Sherwin Williams "Creamy White" with all of the black removed. This became known as "custom creamy" at the cabinet shop and they sold several more jobs of this color while my cabinets were being made.
The walls are painted Benjamin Moore's "You Are My Sunshine."
The floors are white oak from the trees we cut down while clearing the lot to build with multiple coats of tung oil - no stain.
The library ladder was made from the leftover floor boards with the same tung oil treatment.
The perimeter counters are honed Crystal Pearl Quartzite.
The island countertop is honed Virginia Mist.
The range is a 48" dual fuel Five Star (one gas oven one convection).
The hood is a Ventahood with a custom cover.
I have two dishwashers. One is a top of the line Kitchen Aid and one is a Miele.
The clean up sink is an Ikea Domsjo single bowl undermounted.
The prep sink is a Kohler stages 36" mounted wrong ways about.
The refrigerator is a SubZero and the freezer is a Thermador Freedom Column.
The warming drawer is a Miele.
The microwave is my old countertop model given a spot under the island. I'm not a fan of built in microwaves.
Behind the range is a sheet of brushed stainelss steel.
The other backsplashes are beadboard painted to match the cabinets.

I think that about covers it. I'll be happy to answer any questions and thanks again to the gardenweb community.

nikkidan, the island is just shy of 6'x 8'.

dmlinparadise, the stools are from the kitchen of the house I grew up in. My dad made them as prototypes for a furniture factory he owned. I'd give my eye teeth for two more just like them.

LakeGirl, paint colors are so tricky! The windows in the kitchen face north which makes for gray light and my quartzite is pretty gray. So, I knew that I wanted to bring a little sunshine in the room with a buttery yellow. I was setting myself up for tought paint choices. I had thought I wanted stark white cabinets, but the softer cream had a much nicer feel. The SW Creamy White was the best with both granite and yellow wall, but it read a little dark and dingy. So, I saw that there was black in the formula, realized that removing the black wouldn't change the color, so I ordered a gallon with the black removed and voila! It was a winner. I used it for the trim throughout the house.