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RE: rave for leathered jet mist! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kitchen-reno on 06.06.2014 at 10:53 am in Kitchens Forum

sorry, I know I need pictures! Here are a couple from install day. I hoped to get better ones now that my hardware and backsplash are in, but these will have to do fo now :-)

NOTES:

LOVE! Looks like soapstone.
clipped on: 06.06.2014 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2014 at 12:23 pm

RE: What brand are your windows and why? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Renovator8 on 05.29.2014 at 12:01 am in Building a Home Forum

The best Marvin windows are the "Ultimate" series that have a thick extruded aluminum cladding on the outside of a wood window.

The Marvin Integrity can be a wood window with fiberglass cladding and called Wood Ultrex or it can be an all fiberglass window and called All Ultrex.

The Andersen 400 has 2 different models that both have a wood window frame clad with PVC but the Tilt-Wash model has a painted sash and the Woodwright has a Fibrex (PVC & wood composite) clad sash.

There are too many differences in these widows to describe here. The least expensive is the Integrity All Ultrex that only offers between-the-glass mullions which puts it in a builder category.

I've been waiting for the Wood Ultrex Integrity to offer features similar to the Marvin Ultimate and they pretty much do that now but they offer 6 instead of unlimited colors and the interior jambs are oddly angled. I would probably use them before using all vinyl windows.

I like the Andersen Woodwright but its not cheap and I prefer to avoid the use of PVC in a cold climate.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.29.2014 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 05.29.2014 at 09:37 am

RE: Wedding gowns and dreams. (Follow-Up #69)

posted by: andreak100 on 03.28.2014 at 11:07 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

red_lover - again putting on my photographer's hat in regard to flowers (if you prefer that I don't chime in, please let me know, I don't mean to be overbearing).

You may want to consider real flowers for DD bouquet. I know that I typically get close ups of the bouquet and silk ones (no matter how high the quality) never look quite the same as real ones do in close ups - they don't reflect the light the same way and there's always a few random "strings" as well that are give aways. Far away (i.e. normal viewing distance, many people won't know the difference, but in close ups of the flowers, it's something that you see.

The drawback (aside from cost) with real is that they do wilt/die. Avoid "delicate" flowers or make certain that the photographer gets the details of DD flowers at the start of the day (actually, I do this as a matter of course - they are at their peak then).

Another option that DD may want to look into is something that is less traditional, but looks beautiful and can tie into the antique theme well - the brooch bouquet. (I've attached a photo from one that I photographed before) Not necessarily cheaper by any stretch, but it can become a gorgeous keepsake. There's the possibility to even "deconstruct" it later and use the various pins with outfits, or possibly even hand down special pins to (possible) children that she and her future DH have together.

Do silk for the bridemaids - I've seen a lot of brides who do that and it works pretty well.

NOTES:

Brooch bouquet
clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Andersen windows... Worthwhile deal? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Renovator8 on 03.11.2014 at 08:45 pm in Building a Home Forum

Are the double-hung 400's the Tilt-Wash or the Woodwright models? This is a common point of confusion because both window models have tilt-wash sash.

The 400 Series Woodwright double-hung is a great window because it has a well designed frame with a sloped sill and a drip nosing and has a Fibrex composite clad sash with a hidden jamb system and is available in several different colors.

The 400 series Tilt-Wash is the same as the Woodwright except the sash is protected with PPG's Flexicron epoxy paint instead of a composite cladding and the jamb system is the old compressible PVC type (long ago abandoned by most manufacturers).

The 200 series Andersen double-hung window is the same as the 400 Tilt-Wash except it is missing a sloping sill and drip nosing so in order to avoid water intrusion into the siding below the window, it is necessary to install a "sub-sill" like the one made by Advanced Trimwright (ATW). This is a window only a builder could love. They are so heavily discounted to builders that the seller will probably break even.

To save money and get the correct order on time find a wholesale Andersen dealer instead of ordering through Home Depot. In my area the local Andersen rep is embarrassed that Andersen sells through HD.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.11.2014 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2014 at 09:28 pm

Our Nichiha Sierra Premium Shake fiber cement siding is going up

posted by: jujubean71 on 02.19.2014 at 06:52 pm in Building a Home Forum

A few people had questions about this product, so I thought I'd post a photo. This siding is currently factory primed only and will be painted/stained onsite in the spring.

So far I'm very pleased with the look, and my contractor had positive reviews about the product and the installation process.

I ordered mine for about $3/sf including tax and delivery.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.20.2014 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 02.20.2014 at 10:39 am

Few Pics of 80% done white kitchen

posted by: kamkar2006 on 07.21.2012 at 11:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am terrible with this picture posting thing. We move in this upcoming weekend and wanted to share a few pics....bear in mind, its a total mess at the house right now, but I was too excited to wait until everything looked perfect! So if this actually works, here are a few pics! My favorite things are, well, basically after a few hiccups, I am thrilled with it all!

Here is a link that might be useful: 80% done kitchen

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.10.2014 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2014 at 01:03 pm

RE: Scullery... (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: MrsPete on 01.09.2014 at 09:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm planning a sort of scullery . . . though in my mind, I call mine a "working pantry". Perhaps I'll adopt the word "scullery".

My pantry's going to be 11' long and will serve as the connector to the garage; thus, when we enter the house, groceries will STOP instead of making the trip all the way to the kitchen.

I'm going to have a simple 4' workspace in the middle of the pantry, and I imagine it serving all sorts of purposes:
- landing spot for groceries waiting to be sorted
- a place to measure out a cup of dried beans or spices . . . which would then be taken back into the kitchen for cooking
- spot to set bread while it rises . . . or meat while it marinates . . . or candy as it cools -- really, I'm always needing a place to set something that's "finishing" in some way
- place to run crockpots, electric roaster, or other small appliances (workspace will be equipped with electrical outlets)
- place to hide dessert until dinner is finished -- also a good place to store several extra gallons of iced tea

I have not imagined including a sink in this area, nor have I imagined moving dirty dishes in and out of this workspace -- I don't see the point in moving them from room to room, not when I have a perfectly good oven in which to hide dirty items! That trick's been working fine for me for years!

NOTES:

Great ideas here. Perhaps a ceing vent if using crock pot etc.?
clipped on: 01.10.2014 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 12:07 pm

RE: Please post your inset cabinets WITHOUT bead (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: phorbin on 10.09.2013 at 01:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Mine
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 11:53 am

RE: Please post your inset cabinets WITHOUT bead (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: romy718 on 10.09.2013 at 12:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.02.2013 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 11.02.2013 at 09:39 am

RE: Rounded corners for this table or not? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: Janice742 on 10.10.2013 at 10:55 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here is our table that we had made

The one regret I have is that we didn't extend the top over the legs at each end.... We can only place one chair at each end - which is fine 80% of the time -- but for larger gatherings, it would be nice to pull two chairs or a bench at each end to increase seating from 8 to 10.

The corners are "soft" - not sharp. For a true farmhouse look, I'd definitely soften your rounded corners.

Here is the company that made ours:

Here is a link that might be useful: Farmhouse tables

NOTES:

Looks like a great place to have farm table made!
clipped on: 10.10.2013 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2013 at 01:51 pm

Any reason NOT to use Crown Point?

posted by: gothaml on 09.30.2013 at 09:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have a couple of quotes for kitchen cabinets and Crown Point is the most competitive. Is there any reason we shouldn't use them? Frankly I am so excited that they are in our budget!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 12:29 pm

RE: ID this wood floor, please. (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: redheadeddaughter on 09.15.2013 at 08:31 pm in Building a Home Forum

That's one of my favorite inspiration floor photos! I've been looking for that nice, light/medium color, distressed (but not obviously done by machine), old looking floor just like this and I've received dozens of samples. I've never recommended a floor before. Those in the photo reaaallly look like reclaimed floors to me... but I'll let the flooring experts address that. The ones I like the most and that look the most like this floor are these: Elmwood Reclaimed Lumber: 2 options I've seen:

1) Antique Hickory (reclaimed) - they have unfinished (they are already reclaimed and distressed, but need a "finish" on site) or they can finish for you with a great oil finish (ask for both samples). These are gorgeous floors and if you do a mixed width it is more affordable. Personally I really prefer the wider planks. They offer them up to 9", but it does cost more. Oh, and they have a "country select" hickory that is also nice, but less like the floor above.

2) Antique Heart Pine Rustic - reclaimed. I know, I know. It's pine. The Rustic oil finish brings it to this color approximately. But I think the price is better on the pine even though its heart pine and also reclaimed. The color is alot less orange (and more like the photo above) than any other heart pine I've seen. It's beautiful in person! I love my sample floors so much I've been carrying them all over the house with me while I'm working on the plans. ;)

Might be worth looking at their samples? I prefer Elmwood even over Carlisle... and their floors are fabulous too. Elmwood and Carlisle will have much longer (in addition to wider) planks than those engineered planks, which gives a more authentic look imo. If you send this pic to them I bet they can match it.

NOTES:

Info re: my wood flooring inspiration photo.
clipped on: 09.15.2013 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2013 at 10:56 pm

RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up with...it should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.

  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.04.2013 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 05.04.2013 at 10:51 am

RE: attn: Jakuvall or anyone- Please help, inset drawer framing ? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 04.11.2013 at 02:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do inset uppers, and then do framed for the lowers with a 3/4" face frame. It's the same effect as frameless as far as availability of volume for the drawers. That will give you the look of inset where you see it the most (the uppers) but give you the storage of frameless.

Or just find a good quality frameless line and enjoy the much higher quality finishes and better all around storage that they can provide for you. No shop finish will ever stand up like a factory finish will do.

NOTES:

Advice on inset uppers and framed lowers to maximize storage.
clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 03:44 pm

RE: Finished (another) white Kitchen - pics (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: emy315 on 03.22.2012 at 03:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you all of your kind words. This is a new construction. It took over a year, but we are finally in and loving it. As I said I'm not a frequent poster but I hope that by posting my photos it will help someone else as it did for me.

Here is some more info as requested:

Main sink faucet : kohler Vinnata (brushed nickel)
Prep sink faucet : Rohl Country collection (satin nickel)
Pendant : Sonneman Roxy Drum Pendant 16" PN
Cabinets: Omega - Door -Umbrell ; Maple painted in Pearl Opaque finish on perimeter and Cherry wood in Chestnut stain on island
Floor : Porcelain tile -fioranese travertine in silver matte finish
Backsplash : Porcelain tile - Vallelunga Carrara
Pulls : Restoration Hardware - Lugamo PN
Knobs : Restoration Hardware - Hanson PN

I don' know the grout color as I left that up to the tile guy. I think it might be light pewter, but I am not 100% sure.

The island is pretty large. It sits three comfortably. It's about 10 1/2 feet long. I wouldn't go any larger, as it is almost impossible to fine a slab large enough without doing a seem.

To the left of the fridge/micro wall is my butler's pantry. I've attached photos. We do have a walk in pantry but it's in the mud room.

The crown molding didn't come from cabinet company. It's actually the crown molding that's in the entire first floor of the house. As the cabinets went up, we realized how difficult it would be to transition the crown molding from omega to the ones in the rest of the kitchen. So we decided to use the ones form the house and paint it the same color as the cabinets.

Here are some more photos. Please excuse the lack of window treatments as that is next on a long list of to dos.

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 02:48 pm

RE: Possible one-story layout? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: Renovator8 on 10.28.2012 at 03:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

The kitchen can be partially separated from the other rooms by low cabinets/bookshelves, or a stairway. I try not to have more than 3 or 4 counter stools or chairs and never allow them to face each other even around a corner. It's a kitchen, not a diner.

And I try very hard to avoid a sink or stove in the island because neither of them is an interesting thing to look or smell or from which to be splattered. "Turn that disposer on again; I'm gettin to like it."

And I would never design a kitchen without a window because it's a space that is usually used more than the other space especially in daylight hours.

Otherwise the plan is fine.

NOTES:

Separation of kitchen from living area, done well but still open.
clipped on: 03.21.2013 at 10:47 am    last updated on: 03.21.2013 at 10:48 am

Kitchen Reveal - Traditional Quiet White Kitchen

posted by: ArchitectMamma on 03.03.2013 at 09:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

When the second oven blew out last summer on our 20 year old Viking, we knew the writing was on the wall to renovate the kitchen. Our home was built in 1919 and when the previous owners had renovated the kitchen in 1990, they “modernized” the kitchen, removing some of the original moldings that matched the rest of the house, adding black formica, checkerboard tile, and a professional, albeit oversized, range. We wanted to create a new kitchen with style choices appropriate to the simple detailing of our red brick Georgian home, restore the moldings, and create more storage space. The first thing we did was to remove the soffit that ran around the perimeter of the kitchen. Sure enough, it was hiding piping that offset just below our finished ceiling. We were able to abandon a redundant radiator on the floor above and re-route the piping into the ceiling. This gave us not only more storage but also the feeling of a much higher ceiling than 8’-3.” We were able to keep the flooring intact and re-use the existing dishwasher. In addition to my role as designer, I also was the GC. Although I am pretty quiet here on the forum, I learned quite a bit from all of you and just knowing we were all going through the same thing together helped quiet my nerves when I thought I couldn’t take another day of this. Thank you!!!

Cabinets: Custom inset shaker style by Dutchwood Cabinetmakers painted Sail White
Hardware: Westerly pulls by Amerock in Satin Nickel, Hafele butt hinges in Satin Nickel
Paint: Walls: Benjamin Moore_Coastal Fog // Trim: Benjamin Moore _Linen White
Tile: Dal-Tile Rittenhouse 3x6 in Biscuit
Countertops: Madreperla Quartzite
Range: 36” Wolf, all gas
Hood: Vent-a-hood
Refrigerator: 36” SubZero French Door
Dishwasher: Re-used KitchenAid
Sink: Franke KBX11028 with sink grid
Faucet: Rohl/Perrin & Rowe Traditional Bridge Faucet
Filter Faucet: Kohler Traditional Wellspring Beverage Faucet
Filter: Multi-Pure
Recessed lights: Halo 4” incandescent
Pendant lights: Restoration Hardware, 8” Benson pendant in Satin Nickel
Undercabinet lighting: Kichler Xenon

Before:
 photo 01_zpsf817a570.jpg
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After:
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 photo 04_zps57529152.jpg

 photo 05_zpse59ae8c8.jpg

 photo 06_zpsd7074f44.jpg

 photo 07_zps350b81ae.jpg

 photo 09_zps0e9a0619.jpg

 photo 14_zpsa9eeaef2.jpg
 photo 16_zpscabca1fa.jpg
 photo 15_zps2b35baa4.jpg

 photo 10_zpsdcd3ef33.jpg

 photo 17_zpsff28a25a.jpg

 photo 18_zps79155a15.jpg

 photo 20_zpsd1953336.jpg

 photo 21_zps5426a718.jpg

More photos are on photobucket, if they ask for a guest password, it is Gardenweb.

This post was edited by ArchitectMamma on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 7:46

NOTES:

Madre perla quartzite. Love it.
clipped on: 03.04.2013 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 03.04.2013 at 11:45 am

RE: One story house - Suggestions please! :) (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: virgilcarter on 01.21.2013 at 04:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

This is another good example of too much focused concern with the interior lay-out of the house too soon. The result will be the "perfect plan" that results in a fat, ill-proportioned house with a huge roof with all sorts of ridges, gables and hips required to accomodate all of the non-aligned walls and a house that is almost as deep as it is wide.

The proper way to design a house is to alternate studies of the interior with studies of the exterior (almost never seen on this forum), incorporating discoveries from one into the other, repeating the process until both interior and exterior are in harmony with one another.

Worse, it appears (if we are to belive the plan as shown), the site amenities and view have not be taken into account, nor has advantage been taken to get natural light (and passive energy) into the house. As a result, this is going to be a dark house with little slits (called windows) to let only a bit of light here and there into the interior.

I know this has been a fun exercise, but if you only have one chance to "get it right", you should find an architect (who is trained and experienced in design) immediately and work closely with him or her. Start over and start soon to get it right.

Best of luck with your project.

NOTES:

Great design advice.
clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 10:44 pm

Almost Finished Pics - long time coming...

posted by: aokat15 on 02.09.2012 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm still waiting to finish up some small details - such as having my potfiller installed - but I thought I'd post my almost finished pics. I've posted some pics along the way, but here is where we're at now. It's been almost 2 years since we purchased our home and we are slowly coming to the end of a long whole house renovation and addition. Gardenweb has been an amazing source for inspiration and guidance - thanks for all of your help along the way. Let me know if you want any info.

To the right of my refrigerator is an oversized walk-in pantry. There are temporary shelves in there now... someday soon we'll have cabinets and nice shelving and I'll share those pics as well :)

NOTES:

Hood and ceiling match! Lovely.
clipped on: 04.20.2012 at 09:52 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2013 at 11:56 am

RE: Need Michelle16's help (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michelle16 on 02.01.2013 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi guys, sorry I missed this, thanks bee for bumping.The island is 6 feet total. The cabinetry is 5 feet, each post is 6"- hope this helps, Michelle

NOTES:

Frig and cabinet hardware.
clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 12:10 pm

RE: Stone?? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: worthy on 01.24.2013 at 02:03 pm in Building a Home Forum

Up close, some thin veneer manufactured stone looks cheap and even has a hollow sound when you tap it. I prefer full thickness manufactured stone from Arriscraft. It's as heavy and solid as the quarried stone it resembles.

Man-made full thickness Arriscraft stone, Indiana limestone belt course and Century concrete bricks. Photo: Heather Joy Investments Ltd.

NOTES:

Looks nice.
clipped on: 01.30.2013 at 12:12 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2013 at 12:13 pm

RE: Arriscraft Bricks (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: bcool on 12.21.2012 at 05:05 pm in Building a Home Forum

Topman, we've started. The photo was taken with my phone, so it's not the best.

NOTES:

Color--Linen

This house is being built in Mo

Very nice brick.

clipped on: 12.23.2012 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 12.23.2012 at 02:52 pm

Horton Brasses Bin Pull - Winner!

posted by: stie9790 on 12.18.2012 at 04:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Last week I ordered three mid-range ($) satin nickel bin pulls to compare them side by side and to be able to hold them in my hands (Top Knobs Asbury, Van Dyke's Restorer's Brass Bin Pull, and the Horton Brasses BN-3). There have obviously been numerous posts about bin (cup) pulls and brands, quality, etc. on this forum, but here's my breakdown (imho of course), hopefully it helps somebody:

Top Knobs Asbury - Nice solid feel and weight, actual cup part is nice and "thick". Fake screws on the front. Screws in from backside, comes with 2 different length screws. The top is slightly arched, not flat across. Because it screws in from the backside, these female "receivers" limit the amount of space under the pull for your fingers (for me, 2 fingers max), this was why we didn't go with these.

Van Dyke's Restorers "Solid Brass Bin Cabinet Pull" - Nice finish. Underside of cup was rough/bumpy, maybe it's cheaply cast? I don't know, but this was the major turn off for me. Real screws (from front).

Horton's Brasses BN-3 - Really nice finish. Tabs where the screw holes are seem more "separate" in relation to the cup part than the holes on the other two brands did (those seemed more integral to the pull instead of "tacked on"), but perhaps the Horton one is more traditional. Easy for me to get 3 fingers under the pull. Not as heavy as the Top Knobs, and the cup pull seems traditionally "thin" if you know what I mean (like the really old ones do). Very sleek, and can't stress how nice the brushed/satin finish is. Real screws (from front).

Anyways, I just wanted to say that I couldn't be happier with the service and quality of the horton brasses BN-3 bin pull! I just ordered 14 more for my kitchen. Also, when you order 12 or more, there's a roughly 10% discount which I hadn't seen advertised anywhere.

Below is a pic of the winning bin pull installed on a top drawer in my 75% done kitchen.

first bin pull installed - horton brasses bn-3

NOTES:

Horton cup pull review
clipped on: 12.18.2012 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2012 at 05:11 pm

RE: Guess it's time to share my finished kitchen (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: controlfreakecs on 12.17.2012 at 10:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you! Silly, now, but I was a little nervous. I know it isn't the typical GW kitchen, but it suits us perfectly. To answer questions.
Can't believe I forgot to say what the counter is, it is leathered black pearl granite. I went into the remodel set on soapstone, but DH was put off by the price. Then, we visited someone else's home and he absolutely hated their soapstone. He noticed every ding and dent. I was devastated, but we found this and compromised. It saved us money and gives us the look we wanted. I am quite happy with them.

The end of my fridge has something that comes directly from GW. Thanks for the idea LAXSupermom!
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The sink is 16" diameter. It works great and fits perfectly in the corner. I wouldn't want it any smaller, but at the same time I have found it big enough to hold my colanders and wash produce nicely.

The wood bar is one of my favorite things also. It is oak (not QS) stained to match the rest of the wood.

The laundry room colors are for my husband. The maroon tiles are from Sonoma and the paint is BM orange appeal . . . . he's a VT Hokie. :)

I should also mention that we decided to get the Korner King for our lazy susan. We really like how organized it is. Granted, the construction means that you may not get as much actual sq. in. in flat space to put things, but it is easy to use and get into. You do have to be careful with installation so the drawers don't bump your hinges and my apron front sink almost got in the way. Here's a couple shots.
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NOTES:

Leathered black pearl granite looks like soapstone. Very nice.
clipped on: 12.18.2012 at 10:13 am    last updated on: 12.18.2012 at 10:14 am

Mini Reveal

posted by: grlwprls on 12.06.2012 at 03:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

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My feature wall cabinets have arrived and been installed. They are Shiloh inset in "vintage" cherry with their Sundance finish. Flush toe kick since this isn't a prep or clean up space. The countertop is 2" thick walnut with an eased edge and oil finish. The rear of the glass front cabinet will have a mirror installed. Eventually, these cabinets will have unlacquered brass knobs and long bar pulls from Colonial Bronze.

The fridge is an Electrolux Icon and I will tell you, it's a big step down in quality from a SubZero (which is what it is replacing) but I really needed to resize the fridge to improve kitchen function. On the bright side, we do have chilled water again. And ice.

So far, my contractor has been a dream and the project actually looks and flows like it is being handled by a professional. I am so pleased. It is such a relief after all the awful contractor experiences I have had. I can't wait til the beams and ceiling are painted in. Also, we have to blend in the floor finish since these cabinets aren't as deep as the "custom" cabinets they are replacing. Once that gets done, we can install the shoe molding and the bottom fridge grill.

NOTES:

Homestead door and slab drawers
clipped on: 12.07.2012 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2012 at 12:02 pm

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: michelle16 on 11.05.2012 at 10:26 am in Kitchens Forum

Glass knobs on glass doors, latches on other doors, ill post another picture of the pulls in polished nickel.

NOTES:

Love her kitchen
clipped on: 11.30.2012 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2012 at 08:14 pm

The Next Step...Planning For Storage

posted by: buehl on 01.03.2011 at 05:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Planning For Storage

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size & configuration of your cabinets and drawers.

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.

  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

  6. If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

Sample storage map: http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x108/Buehl/2008-2009 Remodel/Kitchen/20 Designs/Storage Plans/StorageMapping-CooktopWall.jpg

This process and the resultant "map" will not only help you to "see" how things will fit, but the map will also help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy map for everyone to use when attempting to find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Preparation--sink & trash/recyclables--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW (and near a water source)--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone]

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard, pens/pencils, sticky notepaper

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--tea/coffeemaker (and near a water source)--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar]

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks, leashes, medicines (if no children in the home), etc.

Overlapping of Zones

Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap...

  • Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as landing space for the range/cooktop. (It is strongly advised you have enough room for emergency landing space on both sides of a range/cooktop.)

  • Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones and between the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink.


Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer


SPECIAL NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


Some helpful threads:

forestfire..please help me with my lists [Missing In Action as of 5/16/10...if anyone has saved it, please let me know by emailing me via "My Page"]

List of stuff in kitchens?

What should go within easy reach of the cooktop?

What goes where?

Reloading the new kitchen, any tips where things should go?

Only one lower cabinet...would you do it?

NOTES:

Brilliant
clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 10:30 am

RE: It's November 2012 - How's Your Build Progressing? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: ppbenn on 11.09.2012 at 09:28 pm in Building a Home Forum

We've been at it for a year+ now and are looking to get our mechanicals etc inspections this Tuesday.
Thankfully we are not to drywall as Sandy left us with a roof repair and water inside that would have been major had we had drywall up.
It has been slow but steady and we have done the excavating for the horse barn and hope to get that underway before to much longer.
It's always fun to see everyone's progress. Wish you all happy building!

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> 10-23-12221

NOTES:

Love this house
clipped on: 11.12.2012 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 11.12.2012 at 09:35 am

RE: Are white quartz countertops a fad? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: momqs on 01.24.2011 at 10:32 am in Kitchens Forum

Consider the fact that if it's not your countertops it will be something else that looks dated in 5 or 10 years. Get what makes your heart sing.

Have you considered Quartzite? It's a natural stone and it's fairly bulletproof.

Here are some white examples:

Firsthouse_mp and I have White Princess:

Firsthouse_mp's island

My counters

Sochi's Luna di Luca

There are many others.

Here is a thread about marble look-alike countertops that has a few quartzite and then other materials.

White is great if you like the look. We love it and the counters make our kitchen.

NOTES:

Quartzite with warm colors?
clipped on: 10.28.2012 at 02:08 pm    last updated on: 10.28.2012 at 02:08 pm

RE: Acountryfarm, Igloochic you 'highend' fauceters out there.. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: acountryfarm on 04.05.2008 at 10:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

My fixtures are Sigma Reserve, Sancerre collection. Here are some picks. I am kind of a purist and like everything the same throughout house. All our fixtures are the same in the baths except the formal powder room. The kitchen fixture for one sink is the same looking as the baths but it has side spray. The other kitchen sink is culinary faucet by KWC. All sinks are undermount American Standard for baths, Shaw fireclay for kitchen, Kohler utility stand sink for mudroom bath, Bancroft pedestals for 2 powder rooms and daughter's bath. All toilets are Kohler Bancroft. I have lever American Standard faucets for mudroom bath and laundry room. Wet bar has coordinating fixture from same collection. All the handles are the french drop style shown in last picture.
Here are some pics,the 4th pic is powder, 5th is bathtub, 6th is showers, the master bath has one like the kids and then the exposed. I think that fixture alone threw dh into shock as it was more than his 1st car.

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Kitchen and bath

Everything is Chrome. I am sure the kids probably didn't need thermostatic control showers and honestly can't remember why I chose that. It has been almost 2 years since I picked these out so rough in was done and I am stuck, oh well. They will be nice but probably could have saved some money there. I am so excited to see these things installed, we are getting ready to do finish plumbing in about 30 days. Keep your fingers crossed.

NOTES:

Nice choices
clipped on: 10.16.2012 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2012 at 03:15 pm

RE: custom booth dimensions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: corgimum on 10.05.2012 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Maybe this drawing will help you out.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.05.2012 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2012 at 04:26 pm

Help Decide TODAY which Version of Stacked Cabs

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 09.10.2012 at 04:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK they are not really stacked but give the look of it.
Cab maker planned to do an upper cabinet separated by a rail so there would be a door below for main cab and door above for small glass front cab.

Here is our plan with the separate top door--

The main cabinet is 26" and the top is 10" although actually higher inside the top cabinet. I don't want main cab to look too "squatty" but it doesn't in the plan pictures.

RmOne81012

Kitchen6

I see some people do not do a separate door for the top and just use all one door- sometimes with glass at top panel instead of being solid.

Wondering which I should do? We have 8' ceilings so I thought we might gain a couple of inches of cabinet by doing one door instead of 2 separate doors.
I believe then we wouldn't need the 2" rail in between.

Here is the 2 doors...: (or are these actually stacked?)
katieob's old kitchen (anyone know if her ceilings were 8 feet???)
DSC_0192

Here is all one door but top section can still look separate
beekeeper- (she has higher ceilings)
DSC_0026-1

without glass, but same idea- you can do bottom solid and top glass
Image 3

katieob's new kitchen (LOVE!)
sinkview

fridgeleft

Thoughts??? I have to let cab maker tonight if I'm changing to one door or not! lol

NOTES:

Pictures of stacked cabinets
clipped on: 09.22.2012 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 09.22.2012 at 08:33 am

RE: Almost Finished...lots of pics (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: michelle16 on 09.09.2012 at 08:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay had to post this one of my little one who turned 3 yesterday, enjoying her cake in her new kitchen!THANK YOU! to each and everyone of you for your nice comments, it means alot. i will list some details:
Floors-Mannington wide plank 5" blue ridge hickory-honeytone color.

Cabinets-Dutchwood beaded inset, shaker style with colonial trim small detail in door frame. Color is BM White Dove and BM Stone Harbor Gray.

Wall color BM Edgecomb gray.
Hardware-Appliance pulls, Cliffside Industries-Artisan series. Pulls- restoration Hardware-gilmore. Glass knobs- RH also. Latches-smaller ones from rejuvination Hardware. All in Polished nickel.
Appliances-36" Subzero( it's the unit on the left when your looking at it) the pantry is a mirror image of this on the right side.It's fully integrated with the frig on top and 2 freezer draws below.
Wolf 36" Gas range with griddle in middle.
Dishwasher- Miele fully integrated with panel on it, I believe it's the Futura Classic.
Microwave-cheap little whirpool in the appliance garage just for heating stuff up- it's great!
Wolf blower and hood insert-900CFM's.Wolf and Subzero ran a special where you save like 1500.00 by getting a mix of their stuff.

Sink- Shaws original farm sink in white
Faucet-ROHL country bridge series with soap disp. and sprayer in PN.I also got the extension spout from what I learned from this forum.
Counters- White Macubus- Calacutta Quartzite. Looks alot like marble and it's very durable, won't etch, i love them they look like glass in the light.
I had an original piece of cabinetry in wood like a pecan color with a cocoa glaze behind the eating area.So there are 3 cabinet finishes. I like how the touch of wood warms up the cool colors.
window seat cushion covers-ETSY, love them and they are very reasonable.
Stools-clearance from Home Decorators Collection, I think they were only like 65.00 or 70.00 each!! Nice touch of color and great price, also the no back doesnt crowd the space.
Dimensions- somebody asked for this, but I am going to estimate. i believe the island is 3 1/2 wide by 6 feet.the sink wall is like 11 feet. the range wall is like 10 1/2 feet. the gray wall of cabinets ifs like 11 1/2 feet long.Not sure how big the kitchen is exactly. But I think there is enough space. We left 43" from sink to island. and there is like 53" from island to the gray cabinetry. the only tighter area is the island to range, I believe that is only 40".
Sconces next to hood-hudson Valley- Monroe wall sconce in PN.
my other lighting is on backorder- It's from Circa lighting- I will post pics of that and the backspash when it's done.
Pantry has the rollout draws with a cork board inside for calandars and stuff.We did the Revashelf for post and pans in the blind corner. we did dividers for pyrex.we did the 2 tier divider with a knife block below.
And lastly the Sheves that everyone seems to like. Funny, I had a vision of getting these rustic shelves on that wall to warm up the space. Couldn't find anything, thought I would have to get them made, then I found these from West Elm, and they were on sale! They are very nice in person. the wood is rustic looking and they have nice black brackets to tie into the black door that i had to have because it looked great in Katie's kitchen! LOL!
everything I learned was from this forum, so many thanks, I will post some more pics and more to come when it's done..thanks again for looking! Michelle

NOTES:

Love this kitchen!
clipped on: 09.18.2012 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2012 at 12:23 pm

RE: Have you seen this pic on a blog? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: grlwprls on 09.11.2012 at 06:23 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Go to Google. Click on Images. Click on the camera in the search bar. Upload image from your computer. VIOLA :-) It will come back with your image or similar images. Makes it great for finding something "similar" to a high priced design piece you love.

NOTES:

Image search
clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 11:15 pm

RE: Too much with prep sink? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 06.23.2009 at 04:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think any sink w/an exterior/overall width of up to 17" will fit in an 18" sink base (probably up to 17-1/2").

Here are some options:

Ticor S805 (comes with a sink grid)
Exterior Dimensions: 15" x 18-1/2" x 7"
Interior Dimensions: 13" x 16-1/2" x 7"

Ticor S3630
Exterior Dimensions: 16" x 17-1/2"
Interior Dimensions: 14" x 15-1/2"

Ticor S3640
Exterior Dimensions: 17-1/4" x 17-1/2"
Interior Dimensions: 15-1/4" x 15-1/2"

KOHLER K-3345-NA (You can find it a lot cheaper elsewhere)
Exterior dimensions: 17-1/2" x 17-1/2"
Interior dimensions: 15-3/4" x 15-3/4"

Kindred KSS4U-9
Exterior dimensions: 17-1/8" x 19-1/8" x 9"
Interior dimensions: 15" x 17" x 9"

Elkay ELU1716
Exterior dimensions: 16" x 17-1/2" x 7-1/2"
Interior dimensions: 17-1/2" x 19" x 7-1/2"

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 06:07 pm

RE: Where do I Place a light over table that isn't centered? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: lalitha on 08.18.2012 at 03:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Fishies,

Some notes from my architect on building a comfortable banquette...

Seat - angle down 1" to make it more comfortable to sit and to prevent the seat cushions from sliding out. Height.. Plan on 4" thick foam cushions that is comfortable to sit on. So the height of the firm surface should be around 14 inches or so to accommodate this cushion. The seat should extend around 5-6inches beyond the adjoining cabinets to allow the people sitting to tuck their feet under. This makes the seat more comfortable for the sitters. If the space under the bench is hollow, you do not need this lip.

Back - angle back 3 inches to make it comfortable to lean back. You don't want a straight back. The back cushions are a good idea and should be around 3 inches. Make sure that there is a wood lip on the back surface to tuck the back cushion under. This angled back and the cushion will also need the extra depth from the seat so take that into account. She recommended minimum 22 inch depth after accommodating the 3 inch for angled back. If this seat will be used for kids to hang out and play or if at anytime the sitters will sit cross legged on the cushions, deeper seat is needed.

Loose cushions.. They look pretty but are not comfortable when several people are sitting.

Table.. She recommended a trestle table to make it easy to get in and out. She said an oval table would only accommodate 1 or 2 people to sit and eat at the table..so if eating is a goal for the banquette to use a rectangular table with 29 inches or so height.
Hope this helps.

NOTES:

Tips on comfortable banquette.
clipped on: 08.18.2012 at 04:50 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2012 at 04:50 pm

RE: how many ceiling fans? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: DreamHomeDreamer on 08.09.2012 at 09:52 pm in Building a Home Forum

Adding my 2 cents, maybe slightly behind on this post but wanted to throw it out there...

I have a ceiling fan in my laundry room and LOVE it. I often hang some of my nicer clothes up to dry as opposed to using the dryer or hanging them outside on a line. It dramatically increases the speed at which the clothes dry without the use of the dryer and without the possibility of bird poop on my clothes.

NOTES:

Fan in laundry room- great idea
clipped on: 08.12.2012 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2012 at 02:25 pm

Again. RE: Few Pics of 80% done white kitchen (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: breezygirl on 07.22.2012 at 12:58 am in Kitchens Forum

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NOTES:

Crowne point cabinetry

19x20 kitchen

clipped on: 07.25.2012 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 07.25.2012 at 09:33 am

Finished kitchen soapstone and quartzite

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

We are finally mostly done. Thanks to everyone for their input, particularly for the layout and countertop selection.

I'm going to post a few pictures sequentially because this seems to be the easiest way.

Perimeter counters are soapstone.
Island counter is white quartzite.
Island paint is SW porpoise.
Cabinet paint is BM revere pewter.
Range is Bluestar (love it!)
Kitchenaid dishwasher and fridge.

So nice to have a kitchen again!

NOTES:

Quartzite--white macaubus
Soapstone--walker zanger
clipped on: 07.18.2012 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 07.18.2012 at 11:00 am

RE: 10ft Ceilings - Run Cabinets All the Way to Ceiling? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jillandmatt on 07.13.2012 at 09:17 am in Kitchens Forum

We have 10 foot ceilings and decided to go all the way up. I love the way they turned out! We dropped the trim down a bit, (you can see what I mean in the photos)so the doors wouldn't be too tall. Here's some pics:
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Our builder does only 10 foot ceilings in his home. His web-site has lots of pics of finished kitchens some with cabs that go all the way up and some that don't. His website is stonecrofthomes.net

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.13.2012 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 07.13.2012 at 11:10 am

RE: It's July 2012 - How's Your Build Progressing? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: Andi_K on 07.07.2012 at 03:24 pm in Building a Home Forum

aries61 - The vanity color is Shiloh's Taupe paint. We went with a maple cabinet and no glaze or anything else on it.

momo7 - the kitchen sink window is the Andersen casement - CN35. I don't have the exact measurement with me, but I can get it when I run out to the house again. Here's a straight shot below. We are hoping to be in before school starts (end of August)....but I still have lots to do! Hopefully we'll pull it off!

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mommyto4boys - congrats on starting..keep us updated with pics! The floors are from Appalachian Woods in Stuarts Draft, VA. They are the Antique Oak Beam Sawn product. We went with a mix of red/white oak 4.5" - 6.5" random width. I absolutely love them! We will finish with 3 coats of waterlox - 2 regular and the final as their satin finish. Let me know if I missed anything! I also did our stair treads in the same thing along with the stair railings. I can't wait til they are finished!

Here is a link that might be useful: Appalachian Woods

NOTES:

Love the floors- link included on post and description of finish in post.
clipped on: 07.10.2012 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2012 at 12:22 pm

RE: Opinions requested on home elevators (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bevangel on 11.21.2009 at 04:57 am in Building a Home Forum

My installed price for a LEV counter-weighted elevator (made by Thyssen Krupp) was $29K. That was for three stops, the 40"x54" car, and upgrading to raised hardwood panels and the deluxe framed roof with 4 lights. Not a pittance obviously but, in comparison to the total cost of my build, certainly not enough to cause sticker shock.

Also, if you are already AT the point where you need an elevator to get upstairs and your doctor will sign an order that it is a medical necessity, you may be able to write off a portion of the cost as a medical expense.

Below is a link that outlines the requirements.

Unfortunately DH and I are still in our fifties and our doctors are still pushing us to climb stairs as often as possible for exercise. So, tho we both have knee issues, neither of our doctors would sign the letter. I'm thinking of switching to a new doctor. LOL!

Here is a link that might be useful: tax benefits of a home elevator

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 07:10 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 07:10 pm

RE: kateskouros - a question about one of your cabinets (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kateskouros on 07.02.2012 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

hi, i'm here. just so busy trying to send two kids off to camp, figure out a way to get the GC to finish the house (without resorting to physical threats) AND sort through six years of stuff and move from the temporary house. i just found my crystal and china so had to wash everything and figure out where it goes in the new place. the good news: i found a miracle doc who has put me on BHRT and i am now better able to handle all the stress this mess has caused. i seriously feel GREAT.

so hopefully i can answer all of your questions. the easy one first: my ceilings are 9' tall. the island, FYI is 10'x6'. it's hard to reach the center to clean so i'm wishing i didn't spec it as deep, but c'est la vie. it is what it is and i still believe i needed the size to fill the space. another aside: you can't see it in the layout, but my turbo chef oven is located under counter in the island directly across from dishwasher #2, facing the windows.

note: the walk from the range to the refrigerator is 8-10 steps, depending if i'm standing right or left. it's definitely closer than it appears in the drawing. it's a large space but i the zones makes it work nicely.

this is a general layout of the kitchen. the dimensions are 22' wide x 17.5' (i think) deep. the breakfast room is off to the right and is 14' square, with a porch right outside for outdoor dining. formal dining room across the hall, other side of fridge/freezer wall.
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this is the fridge/freezer wall. the center panels open up to reveal toaster oven, microwave (coming soon), coffee maker. also kept here will be cereal, bread, etc, ...your basic breakfast items, plus pop corn, et al. silverware is out and scattered waiting for the cabinet maker to come back and install drawer inserts. fridge is shown open on the left, freezer is on the right. here is it is in the closed, and open positions:
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i'm not finished setting this up yet but to get a better idea of my zones, this is the baking cabinet. it houses -or will house my mixers, food processor, etc.; bowels, condiments, baking pans and all things baking will reside in the four drawers below. they're not set up yet so sorry no pics. the baking sheets will live in a base cabinet just to the right.

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some of the shots are old, but i will update when i give my reveal -hopefully sometime within the next four years. interesting to note: i was not menopausal when we started this project, september 29, 2009. i guess it finally through me over the edge.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 11:24 am

RE: Is anyone using wallpaper, in their new home? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: milz50 on 01.11.2012 at 10:31 pm in Building a Home Forum

Thanks...

It is difficult to tell from the pictures (especially the dining room), but the wallcoverings add a lot of texture to the rooms. I feel that it makes the house feel warmer.

The hardwoods are Carlisle 8" character-grade walnut. They have a stain and tongue oil.

NOTES:

Hardwood floor
clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 02:32 pm

ice box latches (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kateskouros on 06.17.2012 at 01:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

these are the cliffside ice box latches i have. i can't say with authority, but i think they seemed to be sturdier than any of the knob latches i was considering. maybe less parts? simpler construction? i dunno...

Here is a link that might be useful: cliffside

NOTES:

Latch
clipped on: 06.17.2012 at 05:24 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2012 at 05:25 pm

RE: Does anyone have 2 trash cans in their kitchen? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: honeychurch on 04.12.2012 at 11:50 am in Kitchens Forum

We have two for the same reason you cite in the OP---kids leaving wrappers etc all over! We have a regular trash pullout by the sink, but we also have a "snack station" for the kids with a drawer fridge/freezer, microwave, toaster--they keep their waffles and gogurt and nuggets there. DH came up with the trash idea, modeled after your neighborhood coffee place or fast food joint; it works pretty well because the kids now think it is FUN to throw things away. It has a cover but we never really use it.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

Beverage, snack center idea with microwave, toaster, frig/freezer drawer, trash, coffee pot, small sink with filtered water, drawers with everyday dishes, mugs, paper plates, napkins, and maybe even a dishdrawer nearby.
clipped on: 05.30.2012 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2012 at 03:07 pm

RE: Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 05.24.2012 at 09:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yep, tell Jason you are from GW. This way he can be prepared for another TKO customer! lol

Dutch Wood is family business. They are great to deal with. They are in Myerstown, PA.

Finestra, yours are the pale blue cabinets right? Did you know Jason is going to do an island in the showroom in that color?

My cabinets are full overlay "with little cabinet showing" is how they are described. They have a little groove need the edges of the doors. Lots of things are included in their base price (plain glass is not an upcharge, utensil drawer included, tilt outs under the sink, the insides of the cabinets are painted if you do painted cabinets, and so on). I was also able to ask for other Amerock hardware that he didn't have on display and I got it without an upcharge.

DSC_0038

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 06:35 pm

RE: Frameless vs frames (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bodhi on 05.27.2012 at 08:22 am in Kitchens Forum

The one con with frameless cabinets I"ve noticed has to deal with upper cabinets.

I have a few sets of 3- 15" upper cabinets in a row. My old cabinets were framed and these sets of 3 cabinets would connect with each other. The frameless cabinets need something to connect the door to, so these sets of 3 cabinets have to be one set of 2 beside one single cabinet. There is a "wall" between them that the framed cabinets did not need. You would have a similar issue with bottoms if you had three connecting bottom cabinets, but most are going all or mostly all drawers on the bottom so that is unlikely to happen these days.

Its a fairly minor "con". You get the most benefit from frameless out of bottom cabinets where you have drawers. It might be a decent idea to have frameless on the bottom, but framed and/or inset on the uppers if you think that would look good to you.

NOTES:

Inset uppers, frameless lowers.
clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 01:59 pm

RE: Faucet? Lets see them! post up yours! (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 05.11.2012 at 07:46 am in Kitchens Forum

For my cleanup sink I have the one jkoebnick has pictured above. The island's prep sink will have a full size Brizo Solna (has a hidden spray) and for the beverage faucet we are using a Rohl triflow with 2 handles. Wanted the triflow in this location because this is where we will get water for the coffee pot, the filtered water for drinking. None are installed....yet. Here are stock photos, but not of the Kraus because jkoebnick has a nice photo above of it.

Brizo:
Photobucket

Rohl Triflow 2 handle (which means one handle is the filtered water and the other handle is the hot and cold--took me too long to figure that out.)
Photobucket

NOTES:

Rohl faucet --one handle is for filtered water! Beverage center faucet?
clipped on: 05.11.2012 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 05.11.2012 at 10:12 am

RE: kateskouros & Others - Comments on Your Toto Lloyd Toilets? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jmcgowan on 04.15.2011 at 09:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi three_acres - I really like the looks of the Guinevere, but have been leaning toward a 1.6 gallon flush vs. the 1.28 from what I've read here. I'm in the metro DC area, and knowledgeable sales folks here say the Gmax is better than the newer Cyclone, but who really knows??!! Still haven't made a final decision, all I know for sure is that I want an elongated, skirted toilet from Toto, and not something too contemporary looking, as our house is pretty traditional. I need to find a Lloyd so I can see it in person, but it was one of the finalists when I was checking out Toto's website. And then I also saw that kateskouros got these, and I like her style.

I likely will make purchases locally, with a 25% discount or so. But I've been price shopping online just to check (and maybe with a call you can get better pricing?) - but the irawoods.com website looks pretty good -- large selection and good pricing. (I have no affiliation, just found them through google and other sources.)

I agree, I like the Sanagloss feature, but a lot of folks on Gardenweb have said they can't tell a huge difference (but maybe I've missed some posts on this?) -- let me know what you hear.

We are hoping to start construction soon. Good luck with your project, hope it goes well! I think the look of the Lloyd will be perfect for your reno :-)

NOTES:

Toto Lloyd toilet --sanagloss, 1.6

More traditional look

One piece

clipped on: 05.08.2012 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 08:22 pm

Finished Kitchen! Creamy French Classic

posted by: adh673 on 05.14.2011 at 02:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally uploaded some pictures, they were taken on different days, some raining and shadowy but it's raining again today so these will do for now!

First of all, thank you SOO much to everyone on this site who was a huge help, inspiration and motivation. I very much appreciate the many thoughtful, creative people who gave me advice along the way.

I am sure I will forget some details so feel free to ask questions. We did an entire first floor remodel (mostly cosmetic) so there was a lot going on.

Cabinets- Shiloh, inset beaded soft white with slate highlighting and brushing. Tons of details on these, everything is upgraded and pull out or soft glide, etc. They were our biggest expense.

Kitchen Table- Antique tables made daily. Chairs painted and distressed from my old set

New Windows (expanded in kitchen, replaced in entire house)- OKNA. And very glad I went with casement in kitchen in the end as I wasn't going to originally.

Pendants- Mercury glass, shades of light

Range- GE Monogram 36 inch dual fuel with grill (love it)

Sink- Shaw 3018 (love it), also got the stainless grid, love it too.

Prep Sink- Rohl Round 18 inch with Tapmaster (tapmaster nice but not end of world if not)

Faucets- same for both sinks, Delta Leland single hole

Air switches- from home depot (very frustrating. Don�t place these near a faucet handle!)

Floors- Character walnut random width, distressed edges,

Waterlox finish, Blackford and Sons. LOVE!

Vent- GE, free with range 1200 CFMs, loud but works and free is free

Undercabinet lights- seagull ambiance lighting on dimmer, great lights

Disposals- Evolution and Evolution compact, no trouble

Dishwasher- Meihl, some trouble here. Had a flood already! Due to filling the soap dispenser up with soap, apparently a BIG no-no.

Backsplash- subway, Emser cape code in artisan cream crackle ordered from Studio Tile in Fl for around 14/ft, Above range, not sure, some small mosaic from a local store.

Hardware- cabinets, hafele antique black, doors ordered online , Emtek black ordered from simpsons hardware

Paint- Ben Moore (have to look up colors, forget)

Warming drawer- Kitchenaid (used every day!)

Microwave- Sharp MW Drawer (fine)

Fridge- Samsung with convertible fridge drawer (can be used for wine, kids snacks, deli meats,etc) (like it)

Wine Fridge- Uline Captain (some trouble here, two repair visits)

Railings- Iron panels and railing elements ordered from

Kings Architectural Metals and welded locally (love the result)

General Contractor- Tom Christie, Quality Craft Carpentry in Northern Virginia. An absolute doll and has an amazing team. We cannot recommend him and his work highly enough and thankful to our friends who referred him!

We also replaced all our dishes, silverware, glassware, baking and cookware- love all the new stuff!

I think that's it! It took about 4 months of real work for the renovation then some minor details dragged on for a long time.

Overall we LOVE the new kitchen and the new house overall. It's amazingly functional and comfortable and we are really happy with it. Thanks again to everyone for their great advice and support!

From Kitchen Remodel

Let me know if these links dont work, I moved to Picasa and never tried to post from it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Creamy French Classic

NOTES:

Love the floors in this kitchen. Character walnut, waterlux finish.
clipped on: 05.08.2012 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 05.08.2012 at 09:39 am

RE: Hardware placement (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: dragonfly08 on 04.29.2012 at 07:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would have to agree with suzannesl and breezy. I think you could pull off using your current pulls by placing 2 for the longer drawers, similar to buelh's (centered) or rtwilliams (spread further apart). I think that badgergal's pulls work cohesively because they are appliance sized pulls and much longer. 5" handles placed on the frames will look funny, IMO.

I have drawers that aren't quite as wide as yours, ranging from 17"-39". For all but the 39", I ended up using only 1 pull which was centered. Since I have all framed doors (no slabs), the placements were all the same. For a more uniformed and less fussy look, I used only 2 sizes: 3.5" and 6.5" pulls, though actual end-to-end lengths were slightly longer. (Also, I really couldn't afford anything longer than the 6".) I only used the 3.5" pulls on my cabinet doors that were short (over fridge, under sink, tray, etc).

Btw, Breezy... your pulls/kitchen played an integral part in my final handle choice and selection, even though outcome is slightly different! :)

_MG_2607

_MG_2614

2-pulls for 39" top drawer:
_MG_2608

NOTES:

Highland ridge?
clipped on: 04.30.2012 at 01:32 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2012 at 01:33 pm

RE: Hardware placement (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: breezygirl on 04.29.2012 at 12:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used three different sized pulls and placed them roughly following the rule of thirds (pull equaling about one-third the drawer face leaving one-third of the front exposed on either side of the pull). Here are my 38" drawers with an 8" pull.

CC rangetop, Wolf ovens, KA warming drawer

A 5" pull on a 42" drawer seems out of scale to me. Better options are two of the 5" pulls per drawer like Buehl did above, which can get too busy if you're going for a simpler style, or choosing a longer pull. Personally, I prefer one pull per drawer, but I'm sensitive to visual messiness.

I've got a ton of other pics showing the various handle sizes near each other if you're interested. How cool for you to be at the hardware stage. Won't be long now!

NOTES:

Rule of thirds for placing pulls.
clipped on: 04.30.2012 at 01:17 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2012 at 01:17 pm

RE: please help_choices of kitchen cabinet manufacturer (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 08.10.2011 at 11:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I would not be paying a $4000 fee for kitchen design unless your kitchen designer is some famous and wonderful KD and even then that seems high. The design fees for blue prints for our whole house from a residential design firm didn't cost that much!

As far as cabinets, there is no question that if I were you, I would get custom cabinets since you are close enough to PA to do it. My cabinet maker is great and will go to Central NJ. His cabinets are absolutely gorgeous (solid wood, dove tail construction, etc.) and his CAD drawings are wonderful (and don't cost extra) and his price was extremely reasonable- your $25,000 will go very far. I know at least a few other people on here have used them and been happy.

Dutch Wood Kitchens
1317 Hilltop Road
Myerstown, PA 17067-1760
(717) 933-5133

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2012 at 10:33 am    last updated on: 04.29.2012 at 10:34 am

RE: Sellers, what are you doing to prep? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: mollymcb on 05.19.2007 at 08:52 pm in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

I've owned/sold 4 houses in 10 years. 3 (including my current house that is in contract) were "by owner." The longest ANY were on the market was 2 weeks. The shortest was my current house, which I sold to someone I know before I even put out my "for sale" sign. I have a "system" for getting a house ready for sale, and actually "enjoy" the challenge, as sick as that sounds! I am very anal about the house. I LOVE to decorate and have been told every time that the way I had the house tastefully decorated is what sold it, but I think it's much more than that but people don't realize it. It takes a good 3-4 mos to get a house ready to sell. It needs to be as close to "perfect" as possible and make the buyer think that living in that house will make life easy and happy. I hire someone to clean so that you could eat off of ANY SURFACE you choose! (I work full time, have a DH, 3 boys and don't have time to do it myself.) I de-clutter, take away all personalization, make sure all walls, trim are freshly painted, all closets, drawers, bookshelves, cabinets, etc. organized and as attractive as possible (down to organizing all linens and clothes by color)yet make it look as "warm and homey" as possible. The kitchen has got to be immaculately CLEAN, organized and decluttered. (It doesn't hurt to have updated appliances, cabs and counters.) Curb appeal is also HIGH on the list. We always have fresh mulch, potted and hanging plants everywhere and little seating vignettes on the patios. There are several good books out that give much more detail that you need. I also think it helps tremendously to know your competition on pricing. Lots of great advice by the other posters, too. Selling a house for top dollar is hard work, but it is so sweet when you get the price you want and sign the final closing papers! Hopefully, this will be my last move for a LONG time, as we are custom building our dream home, mainly with the money we've made selling those 4 homes. Good luck!

NOTES:

Selling the house
clipped on: 04.22.2012 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2012 at 06:14 pm

RE: Sellers: how clean is your house?? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: jamies on 09.14.2011 at 12:14 pm in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

My goal with cleaning is to seduce. To make then fall in love. I believe that things that glow -- countertops, floors, and hardware -- or those vacuum cleaner marks in the rug, have an actual physiological impact.

To me, well-scrubbed = well-loved = desireable, on some limbic brain level. Shine is a hook.

NOTES:

Selling the house
clipped on: 04.22.2012 at 05:33 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2012 at 05:33 pm

RE: help please with ventilation (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: clinresga on 08.02.2008 at 10:00 am in Appliances Forum

kateskouros and mahlgold:
Options are a curse and a blessing. With Modern-Aire, you really have many options:

1) buy a hood liner with an internal blower mounted inside the hood. This would all come from Modern-Aire

2) buy a hood liner but with an inline blower (the kind that mounts in the attic). You would get a Modern Aire hood and then purchase the blower and needed accessories. You CAN, but do not have to buy the blower from Modern Aire. This is what I did. I chose to use a Fantech blower and silencer based on my prior experience with Fantech. It happens that this is a blower that Jeff at Modern Aire also liked (and I'd certainly recommend it--it's the FKD10XL blower and the LD10 silencer).

I ended up buying the Fantech from MA even though Jeff suggested I look online for it. I do think I could have saved several hundred dollars in cost and shipping had I done that, but I was on a tight timeline, and did not want to take the risk of buying equipment from an unknown internet vendor and finding out that I got the wrong thing. So, I paid closer to list price and shipping from Cal to Georgia, but had the luxury of Jeff telling me exactly what I needed.

3) hood liner plus external blower (mounts on roof). Jeff had suggested the Abakka low profile roof mount unit. We elected to go inline.

Regarding the infinitely variable, remotely mounted controls: this is a feature I love about the Modern Aire. Two advantages: the continuously variable speed control allows you to adjust the fan speed exactly to what you need. That's particularly useful (versus for example the Vent a Hood we have at the lake) when you want a very low setting--say just simmering something. The VAH even at low is annoyingly loud. The MA hood, with an external fan and silencer, should be close to inaudible on a very low setting.

Having the switches for fan and lights on the wall is also nice. I'm tall enough that to see the three switches on my VAH hood I have to bend over and then crane my neck to look into the hood. Contrast that to reaching to hit the switch on the wall next to the range. A little point, but a nice plus with hoods that allow remote location.

Again, advantage for me with MA has been that one person has helped make all my choices. I tortured Jeff for weeks with emails with all kinds of questions which he patiently answered. They made sure I ordered all the requisite accessories for the blower (backdraft damper, clamps, rheostat, etc). And they were able to build a hood which was exactly to my specs--we went with a 64'' width, NOT a standard hood width, to go over our 55'' Lacanche range.

Again, I sound like a MA crony, and I'm not, I have NO personal interest in them!! But I have had a very good experience with them. I am confident other companies can do something similar, but I greatly prefer dealing with a small company like MA or Independent or Prestige rather than trying to get customer svc from a huge company like Broan. Or, if my assessment is correct, from your clueless appliance company.

HTH

NOTES:

Ventilation information. Wall switches instead on under. Quieter.
clipped on: 04.19.2012 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 04.19.2012 at 11:51 am

RE: help with desk/drop zone cabinets (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: nini804 on 04.11.2012 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a spot like this in my kitchen. We found it was much cheaper to have the trim carpenter build the drawers, cubbies and counter, rather than order it through the cabinetry manufacturer. Our is a small, L-shaped area with knee space and big, file sized drawers on the left side, and open cubbies for baskets on the right. Although I have space for a chair, I NEVER sit in there...it is totally the drop space for my purse, where I charge the phones, and a place to file paperwork and put correspondence. I use those bins for stationary, office supplies, and I have my camera and all of its accessories in another. Unless you think your kids might want to someday sit there for the computer ( although with wireless, not sure anyone sits with their computer anymore) I would put some larger, file sized drawers. To save money, our countertop is painted wood with a thick piece of glass on it to protect it. I love it! If I wanted to, I could put pictures under it. Much less than the marble in the kitchen, plus I don't have to baby it!

(my hidey-hole is on the left)

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

NOTES:

Desk area off kitchen
clipped on: 04.15.2012 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2012 at 05:15 pm

RE: Which Model Tapmaster Do You Have - Would You Buy it Again (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kateskouros on 04.12.2012 at 11:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

i have the 1756, installed in main and prep sinks. this one does everything: left and right side of the kick plate for hot or cold, or kick the center for warm water. also lockable. i really do love this thing ...and i'd better, considering the price tag.

Here is a link that might be useful: tapmaster 1756

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.14.2012 at 08:03 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2012 at 08:04 pm

RE: My copper ceiling is being installed right now! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: marciab10 on 04.14.2012 at 08:49 am in Kitchens Forum

We have a copper ceiling in our DR.. in a new build.. very happy with it!

04-05-2009 Copper Dining room Ceiling

NOTES:

Tray ceiling? Copper in tray?
clipped on: 04.14.2012 at 01:13 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2012 at 05:53 pm

RE: Laundry layout help please - Dutty got me thinking :) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: chicagoans on 04.12.2012 at 09:32 pm in Building a Home Forum

I like your plan too!

re: the linen closet: I think it would be more handy to access it from the hall. However, if it opens to the hall at the left, then it will be deeper front to back and narrower side to side, so things in the back might be harder to see. That made me think of an idea I saw on the decorating forum that I really liked: they turned a regular linen closet into a combo cabinet/drawers set up:

Photobucket

I think the drawers would make it easier to retrieve things that are stored down low. You could consider roll out shelves for the upper part (unfortunately I know I'm talking about more money...) The narrower doors won't take up as much space with door swing. Plus I think it looks really nice. :)

NOTES:

Built-in linen closet
clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 04:18 pm

RE: Questions about range/cooktop with windows on each side (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kaismom on 04.13.2012 at 11:22 am in Kitchens Forum

I passed on buying a house with an amazing architectural detail from 1904. The house would have been a dream except for the fact that there was no natural light coming into the house except for one window on the south side. We currently live in a house where there are large windows on three sides of a large open space. This makes the house amazingly pleasant to be in.

LavendarLass, large porches are not something that really works in the Pacific NW. Everytime I spend sometime in people's houses with a large porch or a house that does not get any natural light, I find myself kind of down after a few days.

We have very short days for 6 months of the year due to being at 48th paralle. We need all the natural light that we can get during our winter.

You need the South wall to have as many windows as possible for the interior heat gain in the winter and for the natural light. If you use the south wall for the porch, which will not be used in the winter, your interior in the winter will be awful. (I don't know how your house is sited on the lot.)

If you must have a porch, I would put the porch on the North and West side of the house. West side porch will shield the strong afternoon sun from the house in the summer. Since the winter days are short, it will not impact the interior as much. You need the East side and South side to have as many windows as possible. I like having East light into the kitchen for breakfast.

To repeat liriodendron, in the PNW where the sun really matter (and more northern parts of USA), the long rectangular shape with the house facing S/N on the long axis is the best shape to let light into the house. This is why the newer modern houses are often long rectangular shaped rather than square. I like well done modern architecture because it really pays attention to the light and its relationship to how we live. Most houses do not do this.

I am currently looking for a house. The first thing I look at is how the house is sited on the lot and how much natural light gets. Other things maybe able to be changed somewhat... Unfortunately, how much light that the house gets is NOT easily fixed. Your house is one of those that I would find too gloomy to be in due to the large porches covering many of the exterior windows. You have to remember that the house has to work first, then you add the porch where it will not detract from the house, not the other way around...

NOTES:

Good advice re:light and siting
clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 12:51 pm

RE: Secret bookshelf door's roller will ruin floor-help with supp (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: milz50 on 04.12.2012 at 09:58 am in Building a Home Forum

My cabinet maker was able to do it with large hinges. It is strong enough for me to stand on the cabinet while it swings.

Let me know if you want me to see if I can identify the size/brand/quantity of the hinges...I'm not near them right now.

We had to trim the bottom of it after we added the area rug, so keep that in mind.

From finire

From finire

NOTES:

SOSs invisible hinges
clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 01:58 pm

RE: ?--position of faucet handle..over sink or not and why (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 04.11.2012 at 02:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

The main reason that the sink handles are placed more towards the bowl has to do with the limited amount of space available between the sink and the backsplash. Sinks and faucets have gotten larger, but the real estate available for them to occupy has not. And that's why you see a lot of sinks bumpouts. It's a functional feature as well as a decorative one. It allows you to have room for your faucet handle to be any direction you want without hitting the backsplash.

NOTES:

Sink bump out if under window to have more room for faucet. Makes sense!
clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 10:11 am

RE: Toilet with the strongest flush (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: billy_g on 04.08.2012 at 10:18 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Toto toilets are great and you can get them with a "Sanagloss" finish on the inside of the porcelain that practically makes them self-cleaning aside from the occasional streak...

Billy

NOTES:

Sanagloss finish
clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 11:40 am

RE: Can I see your non-built in microwaves? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: clinresga on 04.11.2012 at 08:11 am in Kitchens Forum

We think we have the best of both worlds, by using a microwave concealed in a cabinet with a garage door style hinge:

Microwave in cabinet, open

Microwave in cabinet, closed

Allows easy access when door is opened, while on rare occasions where we're entertaining etc we can close door and it's invisible.

And it's far superior to any built in MW--a terrible idea, they are overpriced, and near impossible to replace when they inevitably fail. And they contain the same "guts" as any $200 Sharp or Panasonic off the shelf unit, as these two companies are the only manufacturers worldwide.

NOTES:

Perfect.
clipped on: 04.11.2012 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 04.11.2012 at 09:27 am

Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone

posted by: katieob on 12.04.2009 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

A huge thank you to everybody on this forum who helped graciously with advice, photos, experience & info. What an incredible resource this is. Shout outs to Erikanh & marthavila for hood help, willowdecor for tile, all the stoners, and many more.

We moved in last week-bottom trim on fridge & dw are still missing, excuse the messy bottoms.

I'll be happy to provide details if anyone wants them.

Thanks for looking!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Marble Close Up

Photobucket

Soapstone Close Up

Photobucket

NOTES:

Modern aire ps26
clipped on: 04.09.2012 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2012 at 05:29 pm

RE: KATIEOB-and others with stacked cabs-is it actually 2 cab? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 04.09.2012 at 01:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pic of Katieob's kit:

NOTES:

Love this room
clipped on: 04.09.2012 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2012 at 02:22 pm

RE: Major wardrobe overhaul--the real deal (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: peegee on 02.12.2012 at 05:34 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

I have done a major shift with my wardrobe this year. I have dropped many sizes over the last few years, and although my old clothes have all been long gone, finally let go of the more recent clothing that is ugly, doesn't fit or flatter. A big help enabling me to make the transition was to have my adult daughter spend an afternoon where she gave the critical eye to everything, last fall. Only a few things made the cut and only one item from then is still left in my regular closet for my work clothes. All the rest were donated except for some relegated to afterwork/yardwork status. Everything else replaced. For the first time in my entire adult life, everything I own looks good and makes me feel special!!! For decades, all I've owned was a motley collection of junk, and waaaaaay too much of it!! So much crappy clothing - it was hard to manage it all. It was overwhelming! Also I had boxes and boxes of smaller sizes of clothing stored. Although it helped me get started with having 'something' to put on but I shudder to think how I looked, as most were ages old. All of it is now long gone, my space has been reclaimed, and I will never again wear anything that is not stylish or doesn't flatter-nor will I hang onto it and store it anymore!. All those years of surrounding myself with ill-fitting and or ugly, outdated etc. clothing - looking in a closet and not finding anything I liked or that fit!!! Also, I have a ridiculously small closet; tops and sweaters and dresses must fit in the just over 2 foot space! Skirts on a one foot rod, and sweaters and other items on one foot shelves and baskets on some of those narrow shelves. I have some storage pieces in the bedroom for other items. But thats it! It feels like a breath of fresh air that I've let it all go!! And now I sort of enjoy taking care of it right, because it's all so attractive!! Penny

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RE: undercounter ice maker help (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: athensmomof3 on 01.15.2012 at 08:38 pm in Appliances Forum

Hoshizaki is the only ice maker manufacturer who makes a soft "rabbit pellet" ice maker - at least that I am aware of. It is expensive - I want to say 3000.00. Maybe more. It is a fairly new development. Before then, you had to get a commercial one to get that kind of ice. Friends have one in their huge pantry and it is noisy and wall mounted and about 3' x 4'. Not ideal.

If you need ice for drinks, the rabbit ice may not be the best selection. Although I love the ice for a soda or tea, mixed drinks need a harder cube so they don't water down. Also, ice buckets, coolers, beer tubs, etc. need bigger cubes or the ice turns into water too quickly.

Although we aren't huge liquor drinkers, we didn't want to buy or make ice to have on hand anytime a friend wanted a scotch and water . . .

Just some things to think about.

NOTES:

Ice maker information
clipped on: 04.05.2012 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2012 at 03:16 pm

Help me decide!! Granite slab choice

posted by: ratrem on 04.04.2012 at 03:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

These are two from the same lot. Our cabs are shiloh white inset, polar white which is the middle white choice but pretty bright. Floor are clear grade maple. Floor plan is open into living room and dining room 1920's house. We will not have any uppers over the granite either, just tall pullouts opposite and a pantry. Will do some open shelving on one side.

Option 1: not as dramatic a bit more soothing, does not have as much as the orange/brown "rust like" spots, it:
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option 2: I love the white dramatic veining on top, but I am not as fond of the orange/brown spots and it seems a bit more dramatic. (not necessarily a bad thing), and not as nuetral.
Granite

I have until tomorrow to decide. The original look I wanted was the classic white inset with marble like quartzite. We did find some mcaubus but would need 2 slabs so it was too much money. This is also a quartzite, and more expensive per sq. ft, but the slab is larger and we would only need one, so it comes out cheaper (this is what I told my hubby).

The lighting is a bit different for each photo and the top one does have some of the white veining on top just not as dramatic.

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Taj mahal granite or quartzite.
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Exterior (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: aceofdiamonds on 09.24.2011 at 06:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

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Brand new house. Look how many trees they saved Mark.
clipped on: 04.05.2012 at 02:00 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2012 at 02:00 pm

RE: Front door is 80' tall & ceilings are 10', what height for (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: nini804 on 10.23.2011 at 10:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

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We had this situation due to the way our architect did the staircase in our house. We have 10 ft ceilings, and all of our doors and cased openings are 8'. The front doors are 6'8" with a transom on top. It looks perfectly correct on the exterior, but bugged dh when he first saw it. No one has noticed it and I think it looks fine. It just had to be this way. I suppose we could have done away with the transom and had taller, arch-topped doors, but I really love the transom. We get lots of compliments on the doors,

Here is the exterior:
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NOTES:

Love exterior
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RE: Ceiling color (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nini804 on 04.05.2012 at 11:29 am in Building a Home Forum

My ID recommended a 1/2 tint of the wall color, rather than white, to showcase the trimwork. Our wall colors are fairly light to begin with, so the ceilings are light as well...they just provide a tiny bit of contrast with the trim.

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RE: Is there a kitchen trash option that is hands free and out of (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 03.11.2012 at 09:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

We use Hafele foot pedals for a pull-out trash. Hands free. Out of site. It also opens from the other side of the island as well for double acces:

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The hafele are supposed to work only for frameless cabinets but our cabinet maker was able to modify easily to work for our framed one.

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clipped on: 04.05.2012 at 10:37 am    last updated on: 04.05.2012 at 10:37 am

RE: I want to paint my new island, another color (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 02.18.2012 at 09:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

redlover--posting pics directly from Houzz is easy. If you right click on the image, a box will open, then just copy and paste the text for the large image directly into your GW post.

If you want to grab the photo to keep in your own files, I have found that you do this step into a GW post, then hit preview, then right click it and do "save as". Then, get rid of the post you started.

I often do a Test Post as the subject, but they never go any further than the preview button.

Hope this helps.

Oldbat2be--thanks, that 's nice. We are doing a dark oak this time on the floor throughout the house. I will really miss the comfort of the cork.

Afterthought---I typed this message. Then hit "Preview Message" and a full page Activa ad comes up. I can't get beyond it!!!! I sit there and wait but it doesn't end! I'm trying again...

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clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 11:59 am

RE: Alternative to Carlisle Wide Plank? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: westiegirl on 03.26.2012 at 05:06 pm in Building a Home Forum

I'm not Andi, but I have lots of experience with Waterlox! DH and I finished our 5" white oak floors with Waterlox and I am in the process of using it on all the window, door, and baseboard trim on the house.

Waterlox is a tung oil based product mixed with other stuff that makes is hard and "build" with multiple applications rather than just soak into the wood like true tung oil wood. We mixed our first coat of Waterlox with stain for a darker color on the floors and I am applying it on the trim after a conventional apply stain, then wipe off process. However, you can just use the Waterlox without stain for a lighter look. It will give a slight amber appearance to the wood however. Our floors have 2 coats original (first coat mixed with 1 part Minwax walnut stain to 5 parts Waterlox) and the 3rd coat is Waterlox, satin sheen.

Finishing our floor was once of the easiest diy projects that my husband and I did on this build. We had no experience with floor finishing and it was very easy for us, so I am sure an experienced, understanding installer should have no problems. If you want more detail on our application process, just let me know.

Here is a shot of the floors:
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NOTES:

Waterloo on white oak
clipped on: 03.27.2012 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2012 at 12:59 pm

RE: Best Size for a Mudroom, Laundry Room, Pantry?? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mydreamhome on 03.19.2012 at 11:17 pm in Building a Home Forum

Do you have a floorplan yet? That would help alot.

We have plenty of space in our mudroom at 8'x12'. We opted not to section off our cubbies to allow for greater use of the space. Ours is very similar to your inspiration pic above but without the dividers and we have 6 baskets on the open shelf. We also added a set of tall cabinetry that houses a concealed print center & office/school supply storage in that space.

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Our laundry is 8'x8'8". We incorporated alot of organization in our laundry. We had the cabinet guy install 3-2can full height trash pullouts in the laundry as concealed hampers. All laundry is sorted as soon as it is brought into the laundry room into the appropriate bin. When the bin is full, you just dump it in the washer--a full bin is exactly 1 load! We also have a large sink, plenty of counter space, plenty of cabinet storage & a place for hanging clothes. While we don't have a pull down ironing board, I do have a spot for my collapsing ironing board that is out of the way.

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Our pantry is located under our U-shaped staircase and is huge--it houses all the canned goods, dry goods, kids' snacks, cereals, Costco sized paper goods, etc + my cake decorating supplies & pans, crock pot & there is a spot for my swiffer, swiffer vac & broom. The pantry is an L-shape measuring 3'8" x 9'4" at the entry down the long leg of the 'L' & 8' x 4'6" down the short leg.

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Hope this helps!

NOTES:

Print center in mud room. Open cubbies.
clipped on: 03.20.2012 at 09:04 am    last updated on: 03.20.2012 at 09:05 am

RE: How to tile around Toto 1525 tub (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: budge1 on 10.06.2007 at 06:49 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It does come with tile flange for the 3 sides that will be against the walls. I don't have a picture of it before install, but here it is tiled in.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

NOTES:

Nice cast iron tub
clipped on: 03.15.2012 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 03.15.2012 at 09:11 am

RE: Intelligent Design Ideas (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 03.13.2012 at 08:52 pm in Building a Home Forum

We designed our house so that once the kids are gone, we can live on one level. We have the master and a small laundry on the main floor, so that we won't have to climb stairs if we get to the point where we can't. I would at least make sure there is a full bath on the main floor. Some elderly people I know were in a pickle when one of them got congestive heart failure and could no longer climb stairs. A study/den could have easily been fitted out with a bed, but there was only a powder room available and that was down three steps.

We have an elevator shaft built in the center of our stairs. The pit is in the conrete slab of the basement and conduit for the wiring is run. Until we need the elevator, we have stacked closets.

The main floor closet is an oddity that only a family with three type 1 diabetics would think of but perhaps all should have: an infirmary. In the infirmary is a counter, upper cabinets for storing medicine, vitamins, and diabetes supplies,and sharps containers, an under counter fridge, a waste basket and a first aid cabinet. When I lopped the end of my finger off at Christmas time, it was nice to be able to sit on a stool and have my better half patch me up with all the tools at hand and no worries about bleeding on anything important. It's also nice to have all that mess out of the kitchen and bathroom cabinets.

The other odd thing we have is a sound proofed band room. It has been great. All the teenagers want to hang out there.

As Mythreesonsnc pointed out, running conduit now is so important. We have two 2 inch pvc pipes running from the furnace room in the basement all the way to the attic just in case all the low voltage wiring isn't enough or becomes obsolete. We have conduit under the drive, under the back yard, out to the back yard in case we ever put in a pool and want to use the geothermal to heat the pool, extra circuits run out and capped out in case we want to do any landsape lighting, etc, etc. We even had a dish tv guy come and pick the best spot for a dish and ran conduit and cable out there, in case we want to fire the cable company.

GreenDesigns, your comments are well taken, but I want to point out that not all humans are the same size. I thought our 8 foot doors were ridiculous and was considering putting in 6'8" doors with a transom when my 6'5" son came bounding into the kitchen in our old house and cracked his head on the header of the door frame. It was like having a stunned giant octupus in the doorway. The 8 ft. doors fit him much better. I actually have some photos of him standing in the frame of a 6'8" door and a 7'0" in one of my blog entries. Some of us have to build for giants. Including longer step treads to accomodate a size 14.

Here is a link that might be useful: scroll down to the end of the post

NOTES:

Heating pool with geothermal?
clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 11:22 pm

RE: Overlay or inset cabinets? which is better? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: cjc123 on 09.16.2011 at 07:50 am in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen has beaded inset and framless. I love the look of the inset but get the most space with the framless in all my drawers and lowers and pantry. I have only had ONE person in over a year catch that the entire kitchen is not beaded inset! I think it is because all the uppers are inset that is what the eye sees. Also, I did have my entire china hutch done in the inset because I wanted it to look more custom - really love it. The only thing I have to say about inset is there are a few bruises to the wood on the frame where we have hit it while putting dishes away. I'm sure that as the kitchen ages it will look less obvious, and more of a patina ;-)
From Kitchen before and after

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clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 07:04 pm

RE: Frameless full overlay (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kateskouros on 03.13.2012 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

i really like full overlay. whether they look modern or not, i think it can go either way, really. my island and baking center are full overlay and the peninsula (white) cabinets/drawers/doors are inset.

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clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 01:55 pm

RE: Hardwood or tile in new home kitchen (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: downsy on 03.12.2012 at 04:08 pm in Building a Home Forum

I had some minwax stain that was very similar in color so I touched up just the scuffed areas with stain on a soft cloth and then I used a low gloss poly over it - just in the scuffed area. (My floors were 16 yrs old and weren't very shiny. They were more of a satin sheen and that's what I used for the poly.) Since it was under the bar area of the island you couldn't tell I did a touch up. It wound up looking really good - blended perfectly.

I'll tell you another trick I used to make my bar stools slide across the floor easier and not scratch the wood once I touched them up. I used silicone spray on the floor and it took away the friction. Now mind you - don't over spray the silicone in a walkway because it makes the floors VERY slippery! I learned that the hard way.

I used silicone spray that I have on hand for my drapery business, but I would imagine WD 40 would work too.

NOTES:

This was her response to me when I asked her how she touched up just parts of her hardwood prior to selling her house.
clipped on: 03.13.2012 at 11:19 am    last updated on: 03.13.2012 at 11:20 am

RE: Anyone building a 'new old home?' (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 03.08.2012 at 06:07 pm in Building a Home Forum

The front porch is roughly 10' x 24'. The two main floors are about 4600. We have 3000 on the main floor and 1600 upstairs.

Hope this helps

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 08:48 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 08:48 pm

Finished Kitchen - creamy farmhouse (or some such thing)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 01.28.2012 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone who gave me feedback on my layout many moons ago. Thanks also to all of those who have posted their kitchen photos, so that I could join all the others in admiring, taking notes, clipping photos and building the ideas that would become my kitchen. I have finally finished building my house, moved in just before the holidays, and just now have a chance to post some finished pictures.

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Now for the details (if I can remember them all!)

The cabinets are custom cabinets from a shop here in Atlanta called The Town Carpenter.
The cabinets are painted Sherwin Williams "Creamy White" with all of the black removed. This became known as "custom creamy" at the cabinet shop and they sold several more jobs of this color while my cabinets were being made.
The walls are painted Benjamin Moore's "You Are My Sunshine."
The floors are white oak from the trees we cut down while clearing the lot to build with multiple coats of tung oil - no stain.
The library ladder was made from the leftover floor boards with the same tung oil treatment.
The perimeter counters are honed Crystal Pearl Quartzite.
The island countertop is honed Virginia Mist.
The range is a 48" dual fuel Five Star (one gas oven one convection).
The hood is a Ventahood with a custom cover.
I have two dishwashers. One is a top of the line Kitchen Aid and one is a Miele.
The clean up sink is an Ikea Domsjo single bowl undermounted.
The prep sink is a Kohler stages 36" mounted wrong ways about.
The refrigerator is a SubZero and the freezer is a Thermador Freedom Column.
The warming drawer is a Miele.
The microwave is my old countertop model given a spot under the island. I'm not a fan of built in microwaves.
Behind the range is a sheet of brushed stainelss steel.
The other backsplashes are beadboard painted to match the cabinets.

I think that about covers it. I'll be happy to answer any questions and thanks again to the gardenweb community.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 10:42 am

RE: Finished Kitchen - creamy farmhouse (or some such thing) (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 01.30.2012 at 08:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

eileen1217, the sink is a Kohler stages sink. It does, indeed, have a cutting board that slides over it. It has all sorts of neat accessories. I absolutely love it!

nikkidan, the island is just shy of 6'x 8'.

dmlinparadise, the stools are from the kitchen of the house I grew up in. My dad made them as prototypes for a furniture factory he owned. I'd give my eye teeth for two more just like them.

LakeGirl, paint colors are so tricky! The windows in the kitchen face north which makes for gray light and my quartzite is pretty gray. So, I knew that I wanted to bring a little sunshine in the room with a buttery yellow. I was setting myself up for tought paint choices. I had thought I wanted stark white cabinets, but the softer cream had a much nicer feel. The SW Creamy White was the best with both granite and yellow wall, but it read a little dark and dingy. So, I saw that there was black in the formula, realized that removing the black wouldn't change the color, so I ordered a gallon with the black removed and voila! It was a winner. I used it for the trim throughout the house.

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clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 10:33 am

RE: Should I build 1 or 2 dishwashers in new home (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: joyce_6333 on 03.04.2012 at 06:12 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hi Red_lover. It's really nothing special, just a long bank of cabinet/counter on the end of our kitchen next to the fridge. The drawers hold all the coffee cups, everyday glasses, coffee makings, mugs, napkins, paper products, etc. It's a great place to set up a "bar", coffee center, or appetizers when entertaining. And wonderful for the grandkids who are constantly running in and out to get a drink. Now if it just had a dishwasher!!! And I kind of wish the sink was just a bit bigger.
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NOTES:

Beverage center
clipped on: 03.05.2012 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 03.05.2012 at 11:37 am