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Corner Cabinet Space Calculations and Analysis

posted by: davidahn on 02.20.2013 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is an attempt at putting some numbers to the age-old question: what do I do with this darned corner?!? I have answered this question for myself, but thought my analysis might be helpful to others pondering this same question.

Methodology:
- Tried to standardize on a 24D x 48W blind cabinet
- Lazy susan & corner drawers required 36 x 36 corner cabinet
Total usable space is calculated based on the interior space of the drawer/pullout
Usable space given is PER TIER and calculated based on the footprint of the box
Multiply usable space by number of tiers/drawers for total storage area
Drawers and pullouts are 22” deep minus 5/8” drawer front/back
Drawer widths are box width minus 3/4” box sides, 1/2” drawer slide clearances, and 5/8” drawer sides
- Your cabinet builder’s specs may vary slightly from my numbers

Corner Cabinet Studies

Shelves & Non Corner Drawers
Plain shelves (not shown) maximize space use (88% of footprint due to plywood box sides and back) but minimize accessibility. The gold standard is drawers (see 'Non Corner'), balancing space utilization and accessibility (only 73% of footprint due to hardware and clearances), but obviously, two drawer stacks are NOT an option for a corner. Space efficiency should be compared to the drawer 'gold standard' rather than plain shelves which are a terrible idea for any deep cabinet, especially corner cabinets!

Corner Drawer
The corner drawer solution (53% of footprint, 73% of non-corner drawers) does have LARGE dead dead space in both corners, and awkward angles all over the drawers. The pluses are: you can store a lot of stuff by having 4 drawers (2728 sq in), and you can have access to ALL of your stuff. 4 corner drawers offer 81% of two 24W drawer stacks, but takes up 12.5% more floor space.

Super Susan
The super susan (60% of footprint, 82% of non-corner drawers). It’s impractical to do more than 2 tiers, and it lacks a certain sex appeal, and stuff can fall off and get lost in the dead space areas. There’s a maximized version of the Super Susan called the Korner King, which looks like it stores a LOT of crap, but it looks like a Frankenstein’s cabinet, an esthetic purist’s nightmare. For those not offended by its looks, functionally it has a lot of broken up pieces of storage of which only about 10-40% of your stuff is accessible at a time.

Custom Corner
My 'custom corner' (narrow pullout, wide side slide), my choice, has the same usable space as drawers per tier (73% of footprint), but a lot less accessibility due to the limitations the corner imposes. I chose it because while we have lots of storage space, I still wasn’t ready to seal off the corner. The large sideways slideout is perfect for items like our 60 and 100 qt pots that wouldn’t fit in drawers anyway (we occasionally cook for LARGE groups). The main pullout would have 3 tiers for more often-accessed items, for a total of 1494 sq in (514 s.i. x 1 full height slideout for big pots, 327 s.i. x 3 for front pullout), a decent amount of storage including a very large, full height side-slide. 2 L + 3 S tiers would give 2009 s.i.

Dead Corner
The simplest corner solution, the 'dead corner,' only gives 29% of the footprint in storage, or 40% of the storage of 48' of non-corner drawers. But if you use a 4-drawer stack, you get a lot of functional storage - 1348 sq in, though no room for tall/large items.

Magic Corner
Hafele’s Magic Corner offers that WOW factor when you see it gleaming and gliding in and out with soft-close. But it’s only 536 s.i. per tier (49% of footprint, 67% of non-corner drawers), 1072 total s.i. It could store more, but it’s designed to fit in more applications (21D cabinets, narrower cabinets), and therefore has a lot of dead space.

Thoughts
- Unlike straight base cabinets where there’s clear consensus that drawers are best, corners are ALL about limitations and compromise (and debate, with everyone having their own favorite corner solution that fits their needs)
- Drawers offer the greatest accessibility, and by using 3 or 4 drawers, you quickly make up for less space efficiency over 2-tier solutions. For example, even though the dead corner only offers 29% of the footprint of storage per tier, multiply that by 4 drawers = 1348 sq in, more than the Magic Corner’s 1072 s.i. and almost as much as the Super Susan’s 1550 s.i. with 144 s.i. smaller footprint. Despite the large dead spaces, the Corner Drawer offers a LOT of potential storage, up to 2728 s.i. with 4 drawers, though losing large item capability.
As impressive as the 'Magic Corner' solutions are to demo (I too “ooooh”ed at first), they are extremely costly (about $900 and up after hardware and baskets) and optimized to fit in shallower cabinets so have more dead space than other solutions.
My custom corner maximizes total use of the footprint area and also maximizes large and bulky item storage with relatively limited access to the inside corner area, while minimizing cost.
- As with marriage, there is no perfect match, only great or poor fits for your needs. If you’re unhappy with your corner solution, either ignore the limitations or find a better solution. Just don’t expect perfection!

Here is a link that might be useful: Korner King - not for me, might be right for you?

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clipped on: 02.20.2014 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2014 at 08:15 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?

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clipped on: 02.15.2014 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2014 at 05:11 pm

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Have deeper base cabinets. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty.
http://www.ultracraft.com/ Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show (traditional overlay shows the most of the cabinet box & frame, full overlay shows the least). The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ... http://www.hansoncustombuilders.com/questions3.html
And ...http://www.kraftmaid.com/learn/choose-right-cabinetry/door-overlays/

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer.

As catbuilder said, the space for inset would be the same, depending on which you use. In other words, it doesn't matter if the framed cabinet on the left had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same no matter what door style was used on this cabinet. And, if the frameless on the right had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same for that cabinet. If they both had inset doors, you can see that the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer openings.

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I was already used to my drawers not pulling out for the back 4 inches anyway with the cabinets I already had. I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper (i.e. 27-30" deep instead of 24" deep standard) from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a couple inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just examples of size combinations ! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen with the exact same horizontal lines all the way around.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top. Jakuvall addresses this below "Note that some brands use intermediate stretchers in frameless which take up 3/4" vertical clearance. If they do I always spec them to be removed.")

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, but she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. Inset is a gorgeous look. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each.

 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Electric Range w/Dbl ovens).
This stove is now available with an induction top which is what I would have gotten if it had been available at the time WGI925C0BS http://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen-1/cooking-2/ranges-3/-[WGI925C0BS]-1021750/WGI925C0BS/

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl). LOVE !!! <3
Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

Upper Cabinets
I will come back and fill this in later

Handles
We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40168
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.
http://www.google.com/search?q=lee+valley+dividers+site:gardenweb.com&tbm=isch
Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Measure it all and plan ahead where things will go. From the FAQs that Buehl put together ... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg010523449014.html
Excellent information on organizing !!

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental oceanfront beach house with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26 (send me a private message through My Page above if you are interested in renting or would like a link to see more info & pictures of the home). Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!!

edited: mostly to decrease monster picture sizes thanks to GW changing their website coding, also clarified my wording on a couple things

This post was edited by angela12345 on Mon, Aug 26, 13 at 15:11

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clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 01:05 am    last updated on: 02.15.2014 at 12:20 am

RE: best height for extra deep kitchen drawers (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ctycdm on 12.07.2013 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Instead of two 9's for the lower drawers, you might consider an 8" and a 10", which would allow you a bit more flexibility for some taller items. I have a similar set up, with inside clearances of 3.5", 8.5", and 10.5" My deepest stock pot would not have fit in a 9"

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clipped on: 02.14.2014 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2014 at 11:57 pm

What do you store in your kitchen drawers?

posted by: Mom23Es on 03.07.2012 at 10:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to make sure I have a good balance between cabinets and drawers in my new kitchen. In my current little kitchen I hardly have any drawers and none of them are the larger kind. I'm so excited to get BIG drawers that I feel like I might be a bit over zealous about it. I also know that all these special cabinets cost more than just a plain cabinet.

So, what do you put in your kitchen drawers? The big ones and little ones?

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 06:56 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 06:56 pm

Please post pics of your organized cabinets and drawers

posted by: sanjuangirl on 07.19.2013 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are almost finished with our kitchen, just need to have the island slab installed (next week) and the new wood floors put in. Unfortunately we're doing this backwards and should have decided on wood first so the demo of our tile could have been done before our kitchen renovation; my DH only decided yesterday that we should add it to our budget.

I've decided to start putting some stuff back so we can begin cooking again. I really want to be organized this time around. It's not in my nature but I'm going to make every effort!

Some of the organizational skills here on GW scare me in their thoughtful thoroughness. I'm hoping some of it rubs off on me as I put all of my things back in place.

I would appreciate photos.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 06:56 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 06:56 pm

RE: Drawer within a drawer? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: desertsteph on 11.27.2011 at 06:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

these are from GW kitchens but I didn't keep the name of the owners.


Photobucket

Photobucket

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clipped on: 02.13.2014 at 03:29 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2014 at 03:29 pm

IKEA Super Hack

posted by: dutty on 01.14.2014 at 08:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Greetings All.

I've been meaning to post forever during this process but I've just been so busy. Anyhoo, I'm building a new home and much to my builder's dismay, I decided to go with IKEA cabinetry and kick his cabinet guy to the curb and boy am I glad I did! I'm truly blown away by what's possible with IKEA, the surprisingly good quality, and the savings we've accumulated. I know when I was making the decision to go with IKEA, it was agonizing and I scoured the boards for advice and pictures so I decided I should probably post here in the hopes that I can help someone else. I apologize if it's too pic heavy but I want to catch up from the beginning so anyone wondering can see the process.

I've been calling the project "hacktastic" because a lot was hacked. I've done my kitchen, dry bar, butler's pantry, laundry, master morning bar and master bath all with Ikea. I drew all the designs in Google Sketchup 3-D software and tweaked for MONTHS! Then we hired a fantastic custom cabinet crew to do all the cutting, assembly, installation, and a few custom pieces. We will be putting in custom wood doors in the kitchen and laundry and stained doors in the master. What really brought me joy was that the cabinet guys said not to second guess my decision because they were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the IKEA boxes and that usually "budget" cabinets are made with 1/2" particle board or plywood but IKEA was 3/4" and thus will be very stable and strong as heck, they were perfectly sized with no weird anomalies, the hinges are Blum and fantastic, and not even one screw was missing! So IKEA was even better than I expected!

I hope this crazy and insane project helps someone out there. It wasn't the easy process of handing it over to a cabinet company but all the work was so very worth it!

Here is ONE of the two storage units filled to the brim with all the boxes:
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Here we had cabinets in piles in the areas they go and the assembly table made everything easier:
image

Things are coming together:
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They built a great base to assemble the island (I used a combination of base cabinets and wall cabinets.):
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The Kohler Stages 45 set into and spanning a 36" and 18" base:
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Double uppers cut down to 18" and set over 39" wall cabinets. We also put base cabinets above the pantries cut down to 18":
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Did someone say drawers?:
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Pantry cabinets cut down and placed directly on counter:
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Butler's Pantry:
image

Crown, fascia, custom arches, drawers, and custom bookshelf with adjustable shelves! ☺:
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Laundry room pantries with space for bench with back and hooks:
image

Laundry room cleaning pantry with cubby for ironing board (a door will span the full distance):

image

Edited to fix the link to this last pic:
image

This post was edited by dutty on Tue, Jan 14, 14 at 20:13

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clipped on: 01.14.2014 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2014 at 09:48 pm

Vent hood - are more CFMs needed if the duct isn't straight?

posted by: rebecca3142 on 01.08.2014 at 01:53 am in Appliances Forum

I thought I read an off-handed comment on a post here - someone who was ordering a lower CFM hood because the venting was straight (can't find the post now....). Is this true, or is is mostly based on output of the cooktop?

Thank you!

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clipped on: 01.09.2014 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 01.09.2014 at 12:49 am

RE: Vent Hood Question (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: subonim on 01.08.2014 at 07:21 pm in Appliances Forum

Hmm, the larger the aperture the better the capture but the more CFM required to provide suction across all that space?Is that to estimate your minimum CFM, or the maximum to take full advantage of the aperture?

Does that mean that larger hoods always need to be run at a higher CFM to make them effective? While providing more effective clearance of effluent, are larger size hoods always louder?

For a 42 x 27" hood I would need about 850 CFM [(3.5'x2.25')90x1.2]
and for a 42 x 24" hood I would only need about 750 CFM.

For the MUA situation I was hoping that with the windows to either side simply opening on these up a few inches would provide a nice direct stream of MUA. Unfortunately, I think I'll still need a MUA duct with a damper due to local codes. More money into the pot I suppose...

Kas, you are a wealth of knowledge, thank you.

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clipped on: 01.09.2014 at 12:48 am    last updated on: 01.09.2014 at 12:48 am

Any clever bathroom storage ideas?

posted by: numbersjunkie on 01.07.2013 at 01:53 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'm planning to re-do both my hall bath and master bath at some point in the next few years. One thing I hate is all the clutter on the vanity - especially the hair dryer and curling iron (DD). We are not the type to unplug these and put them away every day. So I'm trying to come up with some ideas to make things easily accessible but easily hidden. I'm willing to do custom cabinet options, and we do have plenty of space to work with.

Anyone have any great ideas? Pics would be great. TIA.

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clipped on: 01.05.2014 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 06:32 pm

Jetted tub doesn't work. :(

posted by: Valerie-L on 01.01.2014 at 11:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I had my house built in 2007, and have always loved my jetted tub. I haven't used it as much in the past year, though, since the jets stopped working. When I push the button, the unit will turn on and there is a little suction at the intake, but nothing at all comes out of the jets. Anyone have ideas about what might be the problem?

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clipped on: 01.04.2014 at 04:40 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2014 at 04:40 pm

All I Can Say About Neolith is WOW!!!

posted by: aloha2009 on 12.13.2013 at 05:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading about Neolith on GW this week, I checked around and there is one distributor only 20 minutes away (next closest looks to be about 900 miles). The info that I saw seemed intriguing but it seemed to good to be true...a marble look that has incredible properties for countertops.

The beauty of the stone is still very vivid in my mind. We compared it to the Calcutta marble and even close up, I couldn't see a difference. The Neolith had the depth that we know natural stone has.The rep had a great assortment of marbles, granites, onyx, ceasarstone etc. You could tell though he loves this particular material.

Though I had seen videos, it was crazy to see IRL. He literally took the edge of a hammer and ran it across the Neolith, with sparks flying, and not a single scratch! Though he doesn't have the marble Neolith in yet (we saw one he is discontinuing), he plans to have it at a 4 or 5 price grade level. Considering the Calcutta marble that was closest in looks sells in the exotics.

The durability was crazy. No etching, scratching, non porous. I did note a weakness and that is the noise. It was like setting items on a piece of glass. Rather annoying but considering the look and durability, I think I've finally found my forever countertop material.

Here is a link that might be useful: Neolith Marble

This post was edited by aloha2009 on Fri, Dec 13, 13 at 18:28

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clipped on: 12.16.2013 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 12.16.2013 at 10:34 am

how much does brand matter for hoods / inserts?

posted by: jeweleee on 12.12.2013 at 02:16 pm in Appliances Forum

We are getting a 48" BS RNB and thinking a 52" insert hood with 1200 CFM. (cabinet faced hood so just a liner/insert) I'm completely befuddled by brands/choices. AJM is pushing the Faber as they said it is really quiet and much cheaper, but still has the 1200 CFM and the baffle filters and removable grease liner.

My local dealer was recommending a Best or Ventahood, which I read about a fair amount on these boards, but they are at least $1K more expensive. I'm just torn if they are worth it or not. AJM guy says no difference that really matters, as it is all branding. Any thoughts from the GW community, specifically on Faber, but more generally on if premium hood inserts are worth it (compared to same CFM also baffle non-premium brands)?

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clipped on: 12.13.2013 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2013 at 07:16 pm

call out to ABB folks re: installing hood

posted by: jck67 on 12.13.2013 at 11:46 am in Kitchens Forum

To those of you who belong to the ABB club--did you install your hood anyway? My plan is to tile behind the stove up to the ceiling and have been told to wait until the backsplash is in before installing the chimney style hood. Is this a common practice? Thanks.

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clipped on: 12.13.2013 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2013 at 07:06 pm

RE: Help! I need guidance on which range hood - PrettyPlease. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ppbenn on 10.03.2012 at 11:26 am in Appliances Forum

It really has no connecting parts to the actual switch.
you punch a hole in the vent duct pipe, insert the air pressure sensor, mount the electronic switch onto the pipe, and run the low voltage wire to the damper that is installed elsewhere in a duct vent pipe to fresh air. This pipe is hooked onto the air return to your furnace.
I'd love to use this with the Zephyr. But Broan is saying no its only for "compatible" Broan Range hoods but the paperworks say only Broans with above 300 CFM - enough to trip the air presssure switch.
But it attaches to the VENT PIPE not the range hood switch.

Here is a link that might be useful: broan make up air damper

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clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 01:21 pm

RE: Dish drawers -- placement in relation to dishwasher (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: badgergal on 12.01.2013 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

My dish drawer is across the aisle from my diswasher but I think the set up you are considering would be fine except for those times when someone is standing at the sink while you want unload the dishwasher. It wouldn't be a problem for me because I always unload my dshwasher first thing in the morning before anyone is up.
You stated that you will have 2 six inch deep drawers and 2 that are nine inches deep. Is that the inside measurement of the drawers? Are your cabinets framed or frameless. If they are framed and that is the measurement of the front of the drawer box, the inside usable height will be less. My framed cabinetry drawers that are 10-3/4 inches on the front have an actual inside depth of only 7-5/8".
If you haven't already done so you should measure the height of a stack of dishes you plan to store in the drawer (usually bowls will be the tallest stack), to make sure they will fit in your nine inch drawers.
I love having my dishes in a drawer. Here is a picture of my 36" wide drawer filled with 8 place settings of my dishes. Oh and by the way, the peg system isn't really needed. I found that out after the fact.
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 01:24 am    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 01:24 am

Knife block in drawer

posted by: olivertwist on 08.26.2013 at 06:31 am in Kitchens Forum

We are getting this, but what are the ins/outs of the different styles? Some are just flat and straight. Others are wavy. How do I accommodate both short knives (5" or less) and long chef knives? Thanks.

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clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 01:16 am    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 01:16 am

RE: Please show me the inside of your flatware drawer (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lolauren on 02.20.2013 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

DH made the insert to my specs (wood is from HD or Lowes, just cut and assembled with brads.)

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clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 01:10 am

RE: What should go within easy reach of the cooktop? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: buehl on 12.08.2009 at 04:47 am in Kitchens Forum

This might also help...

  • Cabinet 1: 24" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 2: 30" base, 2 drawers + Warming Drawer
  • Cabinet 3: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 4: 36" cooktop base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 5: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 6: 31" base, 1 drawer + Microwave Drawer
  • Cabinet 7: 36" corner sink base w/15-3/4" square sink
  • Cabinet 8: 24" base, 4 drawers
  • Cabinet 9: 27" base, 1 drawer + 2 roll out shelves (2 doors)
  • Cabinet 10: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 11: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 12: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 13: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 14: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 15: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 16: 36"W x 24"D over-the-refrigerator cabinet
  • Cabinet 17: 33" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 18: 18" Trash Pullout + 1 drawer (2 bins)
  • Cabinet 19: 36" sink base w/35-1/2" sink
  • Cabinet 20: 24" DW
  • Cabinet 21: 27" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 22: 31.5" double-oven cabinet, 1 drawer + cabinet above w/dividers for tray storage & 1 shelf
  • Cabinet 23: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 24: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves
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    clipped on: 12.01.2013 at 12:51 am    last updated on: 12.01.2013 at 12:51 am

    Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers...

    posted by: aloha2009 on 02.02.2013 at 06:31 am in Kitchens Forum

    I was hoping to make this thread not only informational for myself, but that other information regarding drawers could be collected together. This is all about function.

    Obviously to maximize storage and ease of use, drawers are the way to go.

    Some things that are not so obvious are about framed, frameless and inset cabinets.

    Another is how do cabinet manufacturers differ (if any) on the available usage.

    The usage of 3 drawer vs 4 drawer (or even 5 drawer) stacks.

    Determining the width of cabinets for your kitchen.

    If you have answers to any of these please proceed.

    Framed, frameless and inset cabinets utilize differing INTERIOR usable measurements. Please specify the type of cabinets you have (framed, frameless or inset) your manufacturer (or custom), the size of the cabinet, and what the entire TOP drawer INTERIOR measurements are (width, length, height). I stated top drawer only for comparison purposes since only the height should change from drawer to drawer. Perhaps certain manufactures have better storage in their cabinet lines.

    Why did you choose cabinets with 4 drawer (and 5 drawer) stack when you did? How many do you have? How did you deal with the "horizontal lines" differences between your 3 and 4 drawer stacks? Just one aesthetic question isn't too bad.

    Though wider cabinets are highly prized here, why did you choose narrower cabinets, instead of the widest available that would fit in your kitchen?

    If there is anything else, I haven't though of to ask to have this thread be as complete as possible regarding drawers, please feel to add.

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    clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 11:47 pm

    3 or 4 drawer stacks in bathroom vanities?

    posted by: illinigirl on 11.01.2013 at 11:33 am in Bathrooms Forum

    also how many drawers per person? We have 2 large vanities (one for each adult), so a lot of storage space, but I'm trying to figure out the best configurations between cabinets and drawers.

    Thanks

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    clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 08:12 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 08:12 pm

    Journey's End - Final Reveal

    posted by: gpraceman on 08.12.2013 at 09:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Well, our kitchen remodel journey is finally over. We bought our house last summer as a "diamond in the rough". After many minor fix-up projects, we were ready for a major one. We started demo on May 16 and we finished today (August 12). It would have been much sooner had our granite fabricator not miscut our island slab. We waited over a month for the slab yard to get more of our granite in (Crema Bordeaux). Friday they came and installed the island granite, so we were able to get our cooktop, vent hood and pendants in finally.

    If you want to read through our journey, check out http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0513472324035.html

    Below are photos of our old kitchen. Very builder basic. Honey oak cabinets with center stiles (DW hated the stiles). Small island. Laminate counters. Wasted space called a desk. Cheap appliances. Dated builder basic pendant over the kitchen table. Poor lighting layout. Pony wall that catches clutter. Only one way in/out of the kitchen.

    Before photo DSC03801_zps8d59d371.jpg

    Before photo DSC03803_zpsf4c24969.jpg

    Before photo DSC03804_zpsd33a9f90.jpg

    Before photo DSC03805_zpsf089d8c7.jpg

    Before photo DSC03807_zpsa7348a73.jpg

    We removed the pony wall to open up the flow. The hardwoods were refinished to a lighter color and also were carried into the family room. The cabinets are custom, made out of Cherry, with a "Spice" stain. Soft close doors and drawers. They were made by Tharp Cabinets in Loveland, CO. Price-wise, they were comparable to the Kraft Maid quotes we got, but Tharp included installation. So, overall it was less expensive going with custom cabinets from Tharp.

    Finishing the hardwoods, running the gas line to the cooktop, retexturing the ceiling, and granite installation were done by others but we (DW, two teenage sons and myself) did the rest. We did all of the demo, electrical, lighting, plumbing, drywall, baseboards, venting for the vent hood, appliance installation, painting, backsplash, and even installed some of the cabinet accessories.

    We saved $1600 on appliances by sale shopping and that includes $700 in rebates from Lowe's and Bosch. Lowe's price matching came in handy. A lot of research went into the appliances, trying to find ones that fit our budget and were well rated.

    The backsplash is a honed travertine in a linear mosaic. We didn't want the backsplash to compete with the Crema Bordeaux granite, but we did want it to have some interest to it. The only accents on the backsplash are the copper looking outlet covers.

    If you want to read about our inexpensive DIY UCL, check out http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0620295110811.html

     photo DSC03922_zpsf3c86bc8.jpg

     photo DSC03925_zpsfe3589c2.jpg

     photo DSC03923_zpsabff8ccb.jpg

    36" gas cooktop and 36" vent hood are Whirlpool Gold. We hated cooking on the electric range as it was so hard to clean and temps varied too much. We are glad to be back using gas. Big holes in the ceiling had to be made to run the vent duct out the side of the house.

     photo DSC03928_zpsc2443242.jpg

    Eventually, we will replace the refrigerator with a stainless one. It wasn't in the budget to replace it now and it works just fine. Kitchen Aid countertop microwave with 30" trim kit above 30" Kitchen Aid convection oven. Extra tall drawer below oven for tall pots. Refrigerator surround extends 29" from the wall.

    Refrig/Oven/Microwave photo DSC03935_zps87843cad.jpg

    Regular shelved pantry for miscellaneous storage against the wall. Food pantry with pullouts next to it. Coffee and tea station.

    Pantries photo DSC03938_zps6e2be9bc.jpg

    Stools have too dark of wood, but for $25 each on clearance we'll live with them. We are really surprised at how much that seating area gets used. DS likes eating his breakfast and lunch there. DW likes sitting there with her laptop.

    Island - Back photo DSC03943_zps715a4b6a.jpg

    Decorative side panels. 15" deep cabinet for storage of table cloths and place mats. Baseboard molding wraps the sides and back of the island.

    Island - Side photo DSC03929_zps2f2e2007.jpg

    We went with all drawered cabinets for the front of the island, for easier storage of pots, pans, utensils, dishes, and so on.

    Island - Front photo DSC03949_zpse74772d6.jpg

    Custom sized bookshelf with extra tall base. Vent grating at bottom of bookshelf was our solution for the air return that was in the old pony wall.

    Bookshelf photo DSC03942_zps2112e43e.jpg

    We found a lighting collection that we liked and replaced the fixtures in the nook, dining room, foyer and entry. Fortunately, the collection also had pendants. Here's a view of the light shade.

    Light Shade photo DSC03961_zpsba1bd16d.jpg

    Shutoff valve for the gas cooktop is under the island granite overhang. "Hidden" granite support brackets under the overhang.

    Gas Shutoff photo DSC03954_zpsb52dd942.jpg

    Recharging station in back right cabinet of island so we can hide away electronics when we have company.

    Recharging Station photo DSC03955_zpsaa33ec5c.jpg

    We love our copper farmhouse sink. Our kids call it a bathtub. We got it from Menards on sale for $559, regularly $699, with free shipping to boot. Home Depot carries the exact same sink on their website. We also love the air switch for the disposer. The under sink filter system also supplies water to the refrigerator. The window sill was made from left over island baseboard molding.

    Hammered Copper Farmhouse Sink photo DSC03947_zps4a158163.jpg

    Towel holder from Rev-a-Shelf. It was under $4.

    Towel Holder photo towelholder_zpse9109290.jpg

    Bosch 800 Plus Series dishwasher. We love this dishwasher. 3rd rack for silverware is great. Extremely quiet and cleans very well.

    Bosch Dishwasher photo DSC03959_zpsebf01d49.jpg

    Bosch Dishwasher photo DSC03960_zpsbce0d849.jpg

    We have an extra pullout on order for the bottom section of our pantry, since DW wanted a pullout in the top section. She is on the short side, at 5'3".

    Pantry photo    <BR>pullouts2_zpsd2d26e77.jpg

    18" dual trash pullout with soft close from Rev-a-Shelf. Drawer above is used for trash bags. Our trash provider collects recyclables, so the back can is for those and the front for trash. I wish I could find a blue can for recyclables, as I know guests will want to put trash in there.

    Trash Pullout photo pullouts4_zps3b94603b.jpg

    DIY cutting board holder made from leftover island baseboard molding.

    Cutting Board Holder photo DSC03962_zps64ecf523.jpg

    Baking sheet pullout from Rev-a-Shelf. DIY install. We lose some storage space with this, but access is so much easier.

    Baking Sheet Pullout photo pullouts3_zps37e5736e.jpg

    We couldn't afford to do all drawer bases, but we wanted one of the regular base cabinets to at least have pullouts for DW's Tupperware.

    Pullouts photo pullouts1_zps2bad4c89.jpg

    Super Susan serves as storage for small appliances.

    Super Susan photo supersusan_zps869e7ac8.jpg

    Cooking utensils drawer. Drawer was scooped to fit under cooktop. It is also only 15" deep, to leave room for the gas cooktop connection and regulator.

    Cooking Utensils Drawer photo DSC03956_zps882faca3.jpg

    Pots and pans storage under the cooktop.

    Pots and Pans Storage photo drawer2_zps615f2560.jpg

    Cutlery Drawer. Custom insert from Wood Hollow Cabinets. If we didn't already have organizers for the other drawers, we would have gotten Wood Hollow ones for them as well.

    Cutlery Drawer photo drawer3_zps67e91c24.jpg

    Dishes drawer. Racks are from IKEA. We had considered a peg board organizer, but these racks make it easy to pull out a whole stack of dishes for entertaining.

    Dishes Drawer photo drawer1_zps4b96cede.jpg

    Rather overcast that day, but DW loves her view of the Rockies.

    Mountain View photo DSC03940_zpse69e2a45.jpg

    The scope of the project grew to include the Family Room. Since we were taking out the carpet and extending the hardwoods, I wanted to do something with the fireplace. I really did not like the tile used as the hearth and surrounded the fireplace. Here's the before photo:

    Family Room - Before photo After1_zps44516f7d.jpg

    The mantel was big and clunky (drywall over a frame of 2x4's). So, that was all ripped out and I designed and built a fireplace surround. It is inlaid with soapstone and soapstone tile surrounds the fireplace. A soapstone slab hearth finishes it off. We had oiled it, but thought that we would let it return to the bluish grey color, that is why it looks splotchy right now. For some reason, the oil hangs around better on some of the tiles and not others.

    We painted the wall a bluish gray to help coordinate with that color in our Crema Bordeaux granite. The built-ins flanking the fireplace were an earlier DIY project.

    Family Room photo family1_zpseef53fb1.jpg

    Family Room photo family2_zps0ea09d5d.jpg

    Well, the scope of the project grew once more to include the Powder Room. The hardwood floor guy asked me to remove the toilet so he could sand under it. Well, if the toilet was coming out, so was the pedestal sink that DW and I hated. So, we hunted around for a vanity that we liked. We found the one below but didn't like the top that came with it. So, I got another piece of soapstone slab and cut, shaped and sanded it. Soapstone tile is used for the backsplash. I saw that end profile on the web somewhere and just had to do it. I love how you can use regular woodworking tools on soapstone. The hammered copper sink is from the same company that made our farmhouse sink.

    Powder Room photo powder_zps0d99aa14.jpg

    This post was edited by gpraceman on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 1:52

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    clipped on: 11.24.2013 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2013 at 05:15 pm

    NY Times "The Kitchen as a Pollution Hazard"

    posted by: deeageaux on 07.23.2013 at 03:09 pm in Appliances Forum

    By PETER ANDREY SMITH

    By midmorning, the smell of hot peanut oil dissipated and inside the tightly sealed laboratory known as Building 51F, a pink hamburger sizzled in a pan over a raging gas flame. Overhead, fans whirred, whisking caustic smoke up through a metallic esophagus of ductwork.

    Woody Delp, 49, a longhaired engineer in glasses , the Willie Nelson of HVAC, supervised the green bean and hamburger experiments. He sat at a computer inside a kitchen simulator, rows upon rows of numeric data appearing on his screen, ticking off the constituents of the plume sucked up the flue. A seared hamburger patty, as he sees it, is just a reliable source for indoor pollution.

    "I can claim Alice Waters influenced the recipe," he said. "It's all fresh and local."

    But Dr. Delp and his colleagues aren't really interested in testing recipes. They are scientists at the Energy Department's Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, and the morning's experiment concerned another kitchen conundrum, a fight against physics: how to remove harmful contaminants caused by cooking.

    Simply put, cooking is an act of controlled combustion - you set oil, fat, and carbohydrates on fire. As a health hazard, incinerating hamburgers and green beans may pale in comparison with lighting wood or coal fires indoors, the leading environmental cause of death and disability around the world. Yet frying, grilling or toasting foods with gas and electric appliances creates particulate matter, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, and volatile organic compounds. (Acrolein, which most cooks recognize as the smell of burnt fats or oils, was used in grenades in World War I because it causes irritation to the lungs and eyes.)

    Emissions of nitrogen dioxide in homes with gas stoves exceed the Environmental Protection Agency's definition of clean air in an estimated 55 percent to 70 percent of those homes, according to one model; a quarter of them have air quality worse than the worst recorded smog (nitrogen dioxide) event in London. Cooking represents one of the single largest contributors, generating particulate matter (formally known as PM2.5) at concentrations four times greater than major haze events in Beijing.

    "Because we�re used to the smell, we don't think of it as an issue," said Jennifer M. Logue, 32, an air quality engineer at the Berkeley Lab. "When you live in a small building, you cook a lot and don't use your range hood, which may not be very effective anyway, then you�re probably going to have a problem with pollutants from cooking."

    Recently Dr. Logue estimated the long-term health effects expected from hundreds of chemicals found in average homes. Her 2012 study, published in Environmental Health Perspectives, used a common epidemiological metric known as disability-adjusted life-year to show that the population-wide health impact of indoor pollutants is on a par with that of car accidents, and greater than that of traditional concerns like secondhand smoke or radon.
    ______________________________________________________________________ _______________

    Thanks to sharonite in the Kitchen Forum for pointing out article. Rest of article in link.

    Here is a link that might be useful: NYT

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    clipped on: 11.21.2013 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 11.21.2013 at 11:36 am

    RE: Make-up air dilemma - WWYD? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: kam76 on 11.19.2013 at 07:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We are going to use this:
    Broan MUA Unit http://www.broan.com/products/product/54c86827-80d3-4c51-bedb-fd57637ec7ab

    Seems like a pretty elegant solution. Although if you are in Michigan I don't know if you would be concerned about pulling in cold outside air in the winter. Our winters are pretty mild here. I figure the hood won't be running that much and this will help us pass inspection.

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    clipped on: 11.21.2013 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 11.21.2013 at 11:32 am

    RE: *My LAST cabinet question - Painting mitered doors (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: SparklingWater on 02.13.2013 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    About to embark on cabinet finish selection as yourself, I've read some about PCV (post catalytic conversion colorant varnish) which many fine cabinetry manufacturers are now using, a switch typically from a pre-catalytic (and other technique) lacquered varnish finish (non-conversion coating film). The advantage of PCV is a far more durable, UV inhibiting finish (no yellowing) which withstands household chemical cleanup, is hard to scratch, better resists water stains and buys the owner time on a colorant finish. It's higher in solids so it requires less coats (benefit to manufacturer) and in fact a high build of finish (5mil) will make the finish brittle. Most manufacturers don't go over 3mils. Cure time is immediate giving manufacturers an edge up on turnaround/efficiency. The biggest downside to PCV finish however is it's hard to repair, especially on site. The process of building conversion coating films is an irreversible process (there are various types, 2k, acid catalyzed and oil based). No process, including PCV finish is bullet proof. However, the selection of a MDF door and drawer front with PVC apparently is felt to be a leader in the industry for those choosing paint (actually colorant) based finish which lasts. This finish technique is worth discussing w.r.t. to your desire for a mitered door.

    The alternative and still widely used manufacturer paint finish, pre-catalyzed lacquered varnish, has the great advantage of being repairable. The chemical process is reversible (forms the film by solvent evaporation alone, for example, as using single component lacquers). The film is not normally damaged when re-dissolved, so standard lacquers are easier to repair (on site too). Builds to 3 mils to 5 mils are tolerable (but lower builds are more common, even as low as 1.5 mil by one cabinet maker I recently reviewed). The con to a lacquered finish is the cure time: it takes 3 to 4 weeks (not the same as the stack time), so it takes longer for an order to be properly finished.

    These points are taken from my notes, and experts will have more knowledge. When it comes to paint (now often called colorant) finish, it is helpful to know about these two techniques and use them to help pick your cabinet doors/drawers product selection (mdf vs plywood) as well as finish technique for longevity with minimal cracking. There is no perfect finish is always worth remembering. Hope this helps.

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    clipped on: 11.21.2013 at 12:08 am    last updated on: 11.21.2013 at 12:08 am

    cabinet height for 8 1/2 foot ceilings

    posted by: quesera1970 on 11.20.2013 at 10:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Our kitchen has 8 1/2 foot ceilings (rest of house has 9...). Our current cabs are only 30" and leave tons of unused space and we have no moulding.

    A basic plan would entail 42" cabs, leaving about 6-8" of moulding to the ceiling--does that sound right? a little big? I also love the look of a second row of smaller upper cabinets with glass, but not sure we could fit them (or afford them). We haven't chosen cabinets yet--in part the decision rests on what height would be best and what options there are in our price range (we are getting quotes but budget 7k for a 10 x 12 kitchen--Ikea would be 4k).
    Also, I have seen some tall cabinets with an upper door that is glass--does anyone know who makes these ? Maybe a 48" cabinet with an upper door in glass? but then we'd have perhaps room just for a 2" picture rail type moulding. Also, we will have cabinets primarily on one wall only, an adjacent wall might have room for one, but then there's the frig and pantry, which would need to match the height somehow (adding a box on top?).

    TIA for your thoughts.

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    RE: Anatomy of the Barker Kitchen- Now only 25% Naked (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: lucas_tx on 05.25.2013 at 09:03 am in Kitchens Forum

    Found the package for the pulls, they are Liberty "Enchanted"

    This post was edited by lucas_tx on Sat, May 25, 13 at 9:11

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    island pendants

    posted by: burghmom on 11.19.2013 at 02:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Is there a rule of thumb for the size of pendants in relation to the size of a kitchen island? My island is 88" long and 36" wide. I understand that you should have the lights at least 18" in from each end of the island, but what about the size of the dome itself?? I am looking at 3 pendants that are 6.75" wide and 7.5" tall. This pic is the "before" pic of course. Changing the fixtures.

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    kitchen pendant - which one

    posted by: kit730 on 11.15.2013 at 02:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Need some input -

    Attached is a picture of our remodeled kitchen so far. The island is 92x40. Our ceiling height is 7'11".

    Here are the two options we're considering for island pendants. Can you please give me your thought on which one would be better.

    1. We can go with 2 pendants of this size:

    http://kodys.xolights.com/chadwick-1-light-pendant-in-oiled-bronze/SKU -N8Z0?ut=W

    or

    2. We can go with 3 pendants of this size:

    http://www.lumens.com/chadwick-mini-pendant-with-glass-shade-by-landma rk-lighting-uu374331.html

    Thanks in advance.

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    clipped on: 11.18.2013 at 12:04 am    last updated on: 11.18.2013 at 12:04 am

    How big is your island?

    posted by: jams on 11.15.2013 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Would you mind sharing how large your island is and if you have the main sink, prep sink, cooktop, DW, trash, and seating there. If you could change anything, what would it be? Would you like it bigger? Smaller?

    this is how i envision using mt kitchen and island. I would like my main prep and main sink in my island with the trash and DW, and while working, I could look over and see my children doing homework or playing. Currently my kitchen is small so the sink is to my left and I prep over the DW. It makes things conveniently located that I prep and clean at the same time and don't let dirty dishes sitting on my counters or sink. Then to the range wall I'd have my secondary sink on the same run for washing my pots and pan. The dish rack would go there as well and not take centre stage of the island. And since cleanup and prep together, there are no meat juices and stuff dripping on my floors to the "cleanup sink". But to have a trash, sink DW, prep and seating, what is the minimum size island needed?

    Can someone else share how they use their prep sink, cleanup sink and DW. Any problems with dripping stuff and having a "long" trek across the kitchen from prep to cleaning. I just feel that if I have a separate clean up area, that takes a good 5-6 steps over, I may start piling dirty dishes there until I could get to it

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    clipped on: 11.16.2013 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 11.16.2013 at 11:55 am

    RE: Need help deciding between cabinet companies! (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: SparklingWater on 11.04.2013 at 10:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I've looked at all three cabinets, paying particular attention to paint finish. Of course pricing is regional: what your quotes are would differ for my major metropolitan area.

    I can say that Mid-Continent uses a spray painting technique (may be pre-catalytic opaque varnish) in several layers to build their coat. One GW member (nina) has them and likes them very much. I didn't go their route because I wanted a post catalytic paint finish (different chemical finish, very durable).

    As you say Starmark uses (post-catalytic) tinted (called opaque) varnish, I can tell you so does Medallion, an Elkay company. I liked both cabinet manufacturers. I had a huge order with four large glass cabinets (requiring the interior to be painted), and in the end the Elkay company came in with a better quote. The post-catalytic opaque varnish finish in white has a lovely satin sheen to it (not plasticky) and seems very resistant to stains to date.

    So it all depends what you want. Some time ago I wrote on the difference between pre and post catalytic varnish in painted cabinets, as they both have pros and cons. The main one being with a pre-catalytic varnish, if a major event occurs in the paint finish there's a chance you can do a reasonable on site correction. This is not so for post catalytic opaque varnish, but it has the advantage of being more resistant to yellowing as well as damage overall. It's very durable.

    Hope this helps a little. I remember when I was starting to learn about this myself. Use the GW search at the bottom of the page with key words to help you further.

    Good luck.

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    Please help with Granite Selection!

    posted by: KelinMD on 11.12.2013 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Help needed!
    I'm looking for a light toned granite with blues/grays, swirly rather than speckled. I'm having a very hard time locating slabs in the Baltimore area that fit the bill. My cabinets will be white and my island a slate gray color. Thanks to the great "Rocks 101" + discussions, I've learned to be cautious of marbles being sold as light quartzites and will take my bottle to the stone yard for the hardness test. I've looked at White Pearl (too iridescent, and did not pass Karin's scratch test so I think it's a marble) Sea Pearl (a top contender but current slab is too green with rust chunks) and Madre Pearle (love but need gray not tan.) I'm trying to find White Princess or White Macaubus to see, but they are in such high demand that I have to wait for the next shipment. Does anyone have any suggestions? It seems every time I read a discussion I discover a new light granite name, and I don't want to miss something. Any suggestions/pictures would be a big help! Thanks, Kellie

    This post was edited by KelinMD on Tue, Nov 12, 13 at 20:56

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    WWYD and why: 36 & 12, 2-24's or 18 & 30" stacks

    posted by: Autumn.4 on 11.10.2013 at 04:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi all. My kitchen layout is just about finalized. I decided to remove the drawers that made a dead corner and opt in on the super susan again(back and forth on that one). When I think of storage I feel the susan would be a great place for my baking staples - flour, sugars, oils, potatoes, and small electrics. Very easy to see what's in the tupperware container by spinning and voila vs. a drawer where I see nothing without lifting due to opaque lids.

    Anyhow in doing so it has changed my drawer stack on the right side of the range. Here is a drawing before the change. What the KD recommended was a 36" drawer stack and then a 12" cupboard for tray storage. I have 48" on the right to play with. I was planning on putting trays above the fridge.

    With the design including the susan - I will have:

    2 - 36" drawer stacks
    2 - 33" drawer stacks (one is around the corner, other side of the susan before the fridge)
    1 - 18" 4 drawer stack - in the island
    1 - 12" door

    The left side of the range are for dishes and pots and pans - I think plenty of room. I have a nice sized pantry for tall pots, crock pots and the like. KD suggests top drawer of the 33" on the left for silverware, 36" top drawer on the left for utensils. That's fine - but the 36" on the right? What am I going to put there? It seems whatever will be floating around in there and I do NOT want a 36" junk drawer no way no how.

    So on the right side of the range I am wondering if instead of a 36" stack and a 12" door for trays I should opt for a different configuration? I will have my baking dishes on that side of the range which would easily fit in a 24". I am wondering if 1 36" stack to the left would be plenty and organization wise if having a different configuration with the 48" available would be better.

    I have read the countless and very informative threads on drawer stacks. I know I want them. I'm just wondering about variety of sizes and if bigger is always better. I am moving on from having just 1 single 18" 4 drawer stack so it is hard to imagine.

    Any thoughts? WWYD? 36" seems really huge to me. I know I'd lose the symmetry of 36" on either side of the stove but an island will be there so will I really notice? I think having a couple moderately sized (24-30) would be nice for some utensils - spices.

    Thanks in advance.

    Here is the drawing (again WITH the susan the right side would be 36" and then 12" DOOR not drawer):
     photo Rangewall_zpscad25cf8.jpg

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    Verona Gas Ranges

    posted by: lawrenceave on 11.08.2013 at 07:28 am in Kitchens Forum

    Does anyone who has purchased a Verona in the last few years have any updates? Many of us are considering this range but reviews are few and far between!

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    clipped on: 11.08.2013 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2013 at 12:30 pm

    RE: Geeking out over cab construction (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: jakuvall on 11.07.2013 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Long but not exhaustive and you asked...
    Face frames- the most common method used by both semi custom and local "custom" builders is pocket hole construction. Since this is a butt joint, end grain to long grain, the strength comes from the screw. Glue is merely cosmetic, keeping the joint tight for finishing.

    Next step up- upper middle cabinets- usually manufactured not common in small shops but does exist- Is doweled frames- or loose tenons. Now you have long grain to long grain glue-very strong. From what I've seen doweled are better as the fit is often superior especially when it comes to mfg cabinets.
    Top of the line is mortise and tenon-furniture quality, a joint to last generations. . Hi end manufactured and hi end local custom.( Probably more common in mfg)

    NOTe- many mfg tout mortise and tenon when referring to door construction. Read carefully. And in fact they are usually referring to cope and sile.

    Face frame to carcass-
    Pocket hole is more common in local custom often with thicker (3/4") sides which you need to make it work. Otherwise thicker is overkill. The issue with Pocket holes here (and on frames) is "compression set". As wood expands and contracts seasonally it presses aginst the steel. Eventually the wood fibers are damaged and it no longer expands making the screw loose.(This is why hammer heads fall off) Without a joint to stabilize it play is introduced.

    Some better local will use splines or biscuits as noted. IMO biscuits are better leaving the plywood slightly more stable. But the pros and cons of either could be argued forever.

    Manufacturers almost all use staples BUT not all are equal.
    Staples with a dado, industrial (urethane) hot glue are best.
    A rabbet joint is a little down the scale.
    Most importantly what glue, how much is used, and application are all critical. Glue up is the one reason I go om factory tours-i want to see how rushed they are. Even on sample "mini bases" _sed to show construction you can't tell.
    What you can see .. Lots of staples is a bad sign
    Moderate number, evenly spaced speaks -good.

    In the long run any of the methods described DONE WELL will produce a cabinet. Similarly an awful lot of "fuss" is palced on material. "- must have plywood". The material itself does not make or break the quality. Small shops hate particle because it is heavy and requires special methods and equipment to be properly fabricated. It is not inherently a poorer choice. Depends on what, and how. Besides just what is the ply you are being given. Show me the specs. (There are many variables in each)

    Ultimately the single giggest factors are wood grading and selection and finish. That you CAN see. Look at some light or natural colored cabinets. Is the selection consistant? Grading? Feel the finish- feel the edges and back. Look it over.

    Both of these are areas where mid size mfg's win. They get a full truck load of cherry and buy enough to be treated well. One brand I use sorts the lumber manually off the truck for a second grading. Sure I can go in and hand select boards at a supplier, but the pickings are not close.
    Keeping a stable environment during production is expensive and beyond the scope of most small shops. Wood breathes and moves, it counts.
    Finally finish. Fully catalyzed varnish is tougher than any other choice. All mfgs use it, few small shops. What is the wet build of the finish? Do they contol it? Almost every mfg has a rep from a finishing company that makes weekly visits and is on call.

    How do you, the consumer get to see this? If they keep mini bases around they can show you. Some places have sections of display to show you a little. In the end asking questions is the best way. Many (most) KD's won't know this stuff even if they went to training, just not the way they are put together (I'm a tad odd)

    Are they just getting paid to push a brand- occasionally a larger mfg may have a spiff program. These typically coincide with an advertised special to the consumer. But most KD's will try to put you in the brand that: fits your budget, your wants and gives them the least headaches.

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    Bold Tile, Sunlight Filled Kitchen

    posted by: oldbat2be on 12.27.2012 at 11:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There are two versions of this reveal; this is the better one but it's loaded with pictures. Here's a link to the photoshop version, if that's easier for you:

    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0307394514459.html?26

    Many of you have seen progress pictures along the way and given us so much valuable feedback and advice. With the forum's help, we have an incredibly functional kitchen in which it is great fun to cook and entertain.

    Our home was built in the mid 60's and the kitchen used to be on the back side of the house, facing north west (never any sun). Our architect suggested relocating the kitchen to the front of the house, and came up with a very functional new plan, which included moving interior walls and adding a skylight dormer, mud room and pantry. We found a builder to perform the demolition and manage the construction. We built a temporary kitchen in our family room, moved the fridge in there with our camping gas burners on a card table, and started the long process of renovating. In the midst of this exciting and frustrating roller-coaster ride, my mom passed away. She was an amazing cook and would have loved watching the progress and seeing how everything turned out. This reveal is dedicated to her.

    Cabinetry quotes for all the new areas (kitchen, island, desk area, bookshelves, pantry, mudroom) ranged from $35,000 to $75,000, uninstalled. Long story short: in order to economize, we went with an online Conestoga reseller (Brian Long/theCabinetJoint), who sold a ready to assemble/RTA cabinet, for around $23,000. This included many custom pieces; 18" deep uppers, custom width upper cabinets, 2 custom depth floor to ceiling bookshelves, and custom drawer widths and heights. While we've been very pleased with the quality and functionality, I wonder what the final effect would have been with different cabinets and/or a different cabinet style. DH and I assembled the cabinets ourselves and our builder's crew hung them. DH installed all the appliances (several, multiple times), built a steel bar support system for the island, and did so very much electrical, plumbing and carpentry work. He is one in a million.

    As you look at these pictures, I would welcome finishing suggestions. What did we, as DIY-ers, miss or mangle? What stands out as unfinished to your eye and what could I add to a punchlist for a finish carpenter or DH and me? I won't be offended, but to be totally honest, I am not posting any of the bad pictures :)

    When it came time to pick a backsplash, I found I had too much white and disliked how the upper run of cabinets looked. With a ton of help from the forum, I picked a bold tile which draws the eye away from the cabinets. (Special thanks to Hollysprings for reminding me that I liked a lot of contrast in my inspiration pictures and to onedogedie, for introducing me to kj patterson).

    Before
    The kitchen was small and my countertops were always crowded. Still, I feel the need to acknowledge how many wonderful meals came out of that space.

    We bumped out the front of the house 5 feet, replacing the foot print of the old covered porch.

    We learned we could replace a structural post which would have been out in the middle, with an LBL beam. (Huge thanks to jeff_from_oakville, live_wire_oak, remodelfla, sjmitch, karen_belle and bmorepanic).

    Assembling and installing cabinets. There was no magical truck pulling up outside and crews bringing in beautiful, assembled cabinets....

    After

    Desk area to the right, fireplace to eventually be replaced with gas:

    Bookshelves flanking the desk - houseful, you gave me the idea of using 2 of these, to balance the desk area, and I love how this works. Nothing warms a room like books! We also keep the phone and answering machine here.

    Birds'-eye view, skylight dormer:

    We love our recycling center and the inset composter:

    Custom wood hood built by DH. Upper cabinets are 18" deep.

    Recycling center on island and shallow cutting board cabinet:

    Tiled fire extinguisher niche. This is located behind the ovens; countertops are 30" and ovens were pulled forward by 6".

    Upper cabinet knobs:

    Baking Area with 30" countertops: (we keep things out on them and still have room to roll out a pie crust or make biscuits).

    Top drawer: (note my new XMAS presents, my pink thermapen and my yellow lemon juice squeezer, thanks to zelmar and Breezygirl!)

    Middle drawer:

    Bottom drawer:

    Next drawer stack over to the left, fun storage:

    Bottom drawer:

    I like the Rev-A-Shelf pull-outs (DH HATED installing these with a passion) but they are flimsy (wobbly) in comparison to my Blum Blu-Motion drawer glides.

    In the upper cabinets, DH has built custom spice racks for us:

    We were able to find a caulk which matched our grout. We dealt with a local metal working shop to create our stainless steel surround and custom hood liner:

    Pantry:
    Linen closet at left, eventually washer and dryer at far end. The base cabinet at the end has a single large pullout; this will be for clothes sorting bins.

    Filing cabinets and beverage fridge:

    Cabinets: Conestoga RTA Cabinets and Doors, Crystal White, Door CRP-10875, Cordovan stain on island.
    Counters: Cambria Torquay
    Bar stools: Carrington CourtDirect Mitchell 26" bar stools, with COM and custom stain.

    Wall paint: BM Aura Vancouver Day

    Tile: kj patterson, Fireclay Debris

    Cabinet hardware
    Upper Hafele Knob Clear/Polished Chrome - HAF-135-75-420
    Lower: RH Bistro Pull

    Lights:
    Varaluz, Nevada (table)
    LBL lighting monorail, Lava II
    Undercabinet: Philips powercore profile LED strips

    Appliances/Fixtures:
    Kohler Karbon faucet
    KWC Sin Faucet
    48" Capital Culinarian
    Solon Inset Composter
    Sharp 24" MW Drawer
    Hood: Prestige insert with remote blower
    Franke Peak SS Sink
    Silestone Silgranit Sink, Biscuit
    TapMaster
    Hafele Food Pedals
    Miele Futura Dimension

    This post was edited by oldbat2be on Wed, Apr 3, 13 at 13:38

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    clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 10:33 am    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 10:34 am

    RE: Blanco Granite sink (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: nanj on 11.04.2013 at 09:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Costco has a Blanco Diamond Silgrant II 1-3/4 bowl sink on sale for $320. I think the colors are limited to Anthracite and Cafe Brown.

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    clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 12:44 am    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 12:45 am

    RTA cab question

    posted by: Boops2012 on 11.03.2013 at 02:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I'm guessing the interiors are not finished-ie. clear coated or painted. Is it easier to paint the pieces first before assembly? They will be in white with no glass doors so the interior finish won't be seen.
    If the interior surfaces need to be finished - which is better? Just clear coat or prime and paint?

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    clipped on: 11.04.2013 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2013 at 04:21 pm

    RE: Kitchen Faucet Dilemma (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: rococogurl on 10.29.2013 at 07:49 am in Kitchens Forum

    Before you purchase the replacement faucet, here is some information that might be helpful in making sure the next choice is just the right one.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Making Sense of Kitchen Faucets

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    Great article!!!!
    clipped on: 11.04.2013 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 11.04.2013 at 12:19 am

    RE: How to space out pendants over an island (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: SaltLife631 on 11.03.2013 at 12:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    First you must decide how many pendants of a given size are necessary to cover the entire length of the island you are trying to light. In your case you have already done so. With that in mind the basic premise is that if you have two pendants you want to divide the total length of your island by two if you have three sections you want to divide the total length of your island by three so on and so forth. From there you aim to place one pendant in the middle of each of those sections. If I am reading you correctly the total length of your island is 92", since you are utilizing two pendants you will have two sections of 46". The pendants should be hung approximately 23" in from the outer edges of the island. That will leave a space of 46" between the center of the pendants. If you need any clarification please don't hesitate to ask. I hope all is well and I look forward to seeing your project.

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    clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 07:03 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 07:04 pm

    Expensive vs. Cheap subway tile?

    posted by: AGK2003 on 11.03.2013 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The subway tile i've seen locally is generally around $2/SF. Will I notice a difference between that and the more expensive (upwards of $10/SF) subway tile? i saw a comment online that says the thinner tile will look cheap but others tell me you can't tell once it's on the wall. What do the GWers say? thank you! so confused... thought we'd save a little here.

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    clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 04:07 pm

    RE: Where should I put paper towels and other nooks? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: romy718 on 10.26.2013 at 12:36 am in Kitchens Forum

    I got this marble paper towel holder at Crate & Barrel. It's actually quite pretty, white marble with grey veining.

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    clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 11:40 am

    Custom Drawer Inserts

    posted by: meyersdvm on 06.05.2013 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I learned about Wood Hollow's custom drawer inserts from this forum. I ordered from their eBay site last Wednesday and my drawer inserts arrived very well packaged yesterday.

    I love that they match my wood drawer interiors and leave no wasted space. They are well made and very reasonably priced at $35 each for cutlery and utensil inserts and $25 for a fluted spice insert. My spice drawer is in a bank of base cabs that are only 18 inches in depth, so standard inserts would not have worked.

    Spice drawer
    Utensil drawer
    Cutlery drawer

    Here is a link that might be useful: Cutlery Insert

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    clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 11:38 am    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 11:38 am