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Tung Oil finish showing or collecting dirt?

posted by: lascatx on 07.31.2011 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have searched several times and cannot find discussions I was sure I'd seen about how happy folks were with tung oil finished floors. I finally posted a question on flooring and have no replies after several days. I'm wondering if it was here in kitchens. Anyone able to help?

We are looking at installing an unfinished wood floor and doing it with tung oil. We know a man who does that and we loved the idea. Problem is that the 3/4" planks over 3/4" plywood installation he does creates too many problems for us. We found the same wood (mesquite) in 1/2 unfinished that we are told can be glued down on a concrete slab unlike most of the wood floors around here. But those folks say most or all of the folks who have tried a tung oil finish have sanded and redone the floors with something else. They suggest Waterlox, which I've read a lot about here with counters -- and floors, perhaps?

The reason they say most people don't like the tung oil finish is that is shows dirt too much. That makes me think they left too much oil on the surface -- perhaps expecting a sheen?

Has anyone here been unhappy with a tung oil finish on their floors or counter? If so, why? And if you have one you love, I'd be happy to hear about that too. Thanks.


clipped on: 08.03.2011 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2011 at 10:08 pm

RE: What My Kitchen Must-Must-Must Have... (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: natal on 07.24.2011 at 12:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

ICF, it's a Knape & Vogt, but unfortunately I don't think they make it anymore. If your cabinets will be frameless you can use a Hafele.

Here is a link that might be useful: Hafele foot pedal


clipped on: 07.24.2011 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 07.24.2011 at 10:53 pm

My Dual Purpose Kitchen Table

posted by: houseful on 07.23.2011 at 01:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've seen quite a few threads lately asking about just the right kitchen tables. For years, I avoided buying a new table because I couldn't find a nice large one for our family of 8 that didn't either cost a fortune or was so cheap it showed. I also couldn't stand the thought of a new expensive table getting beat up.

So, I built and beat up my own. I bought 3/4" stain grade plywood, some decorative trim molding, some wood for the "apron" and some legs at the big box store. I was able to build, stain, and put three coats of poly on this in less than a week. I didn't want it perfect; I wanted it to look old. I never wanted to worry about having to use coasters or a table cloth. I used a finish nailer and didn't even bother to fill the holes. In fact we added more holes on purpose. I only sanded it before the first coat of stain.

It is big enough so that when all the food is on the table, you still have breathing room in front of you and enough elbow room on your sides. Because the trim molding I liked only came in 8 feet, I did have to have the plywood trimmed down to a little less than 4x8 to allow for the mitered corners.

First thing we did was buy this from HD. I did NOT spend $279 as is now advertised. This ensemble was on sale for less than $200 when I got it. We already had a miter saw.




FYI, nailer is empty here!!


I really wanted a tressle table, but that started to get too involved and was going to raise the cost substantially. I spent under $200 for this table. If you are up for the challenge, and don't necessarily care about perfection, it is very rewarding. I am very pleased with the way this table functions. As you can see, so are the kids!



clipped on: 07.23.2011 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2011 at 02:04 pm

Anyone with a worm bin under their sink?

posted by: raro on 07.19.2011 at 01:39 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been an avid composter since forever. I was thinking of trying something new with the worm bin.

As far as I can tell the advantages are to reduce the amount of stuff that goes into the outside compost bin, reduce the trips to the outside compost bin, make more readily available finished product (worm casing) for use in houseplants and garden. What else? Downside?

Has anyone tried this with success? Please do tell and please include pics. Design? Materials?


clipped on: 07.22.2011 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2011 at 04:06 pm

RE: Anyone with Counter Mounted Compost Bins? - Updating a Discus (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: zelmar on 07.17.2011 at 11:58 am in Kitchens Forum

In that 2008 thread I mentioned I was thinking about a door mounted waste bin. I've been using the one below for about 2 years and I absolutely love it. It's a lot roomier than a drawer would be, is easy to access, there are no lids I need to physically take off, and it's off of the counter. My pet peeve with my previous bins was always what to do with the sometimes yucky lid when I wanted to use both hands to transfer scraps. I hated putting it down on the counter. After 25 years of composting, I can't imagine a better solution for my kitchen. When I'm dealing with a lot of food scraps (i.e when peeling and seeding multiple squashes), I leave the door open during prep.

The first TKO person I ever knew, a business friend, redid her kitchen 20 years ago. It was completely dyi (including her dh making the cabinets from various species of wood found on their property) and she thought of every detail. They were avid organic gardeners and composting was huge for them. They put in a counter top system. When I visited a year later, I noticed they had abandoned it (so it was just a plugged up hole in their counter.) I never asked why and I lost touch many years ago.


btw, there is no real weight on the door. The can is actually mounted to the inside of the cabinet and a bracket attaches to the door to pivot the can out with the door. The lid automatically comes off when the door is swung open with the can. I haven't noticed any odor problems even though we don't empty the can every day and there is no charcoal filter.

We tried the cheaper all plastic one at first, but the mounting hardware wasn't as strong as the white one and the can started sagging. Photobucket

The white one is heavier duty. Both versions are made by Rev-a-Shelf and both have inner pails that come out (with handle) to make emptying easy. It also comes in stainless steel.


clipped on: 07.19.2011 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 07.19.2011 at 01:34 am

Anyone with Counter Mounted Compost Bins? - Updating a Discussion

posted by: kashmi on 07.17.2011 at 11:06 am in Kitchens Forum

After a GW search, I found some older threads on this topic. Most people seemed loath to cut holes in their countertops. So some had cleverly fitted drawers with hotel pans with lids.
2010 thread here
2008 threat here

We are willing to cut that hole. Before we do so, however, I'd love to learn whether anyone (other than dannie in the 2010 thread above) has successfully been using a countertop mounted system of some sort.

For example, now that the Blanco System is available in the US, are folks using it? It's pricey and, frankly, the pail doesn't seem like it would hold much (at 8'' x 8''). But, the pail is stainless steel.

From Kitchen Reno

Rev-a-Shelf has a larger version, but the pail looks like it's plastic.

From Kitchen Reno

For years we've just used a large (8 qt. or so) cheap stainless mixing bowl. But I'd really like to get that off the countertop (or cooktop, or whereever it is sitting at the time). Especially with our planned minor kitchen remodel, I'd like to find a more permanent solution. (We've determined that a pull-out trash type of option won't work for us.)

So, before cutting holes in the new granite, I'm seeking the wisdom of those who have been using such an approach (of a counter mounted compost keeper).

Thanks in advance.


clipped on: 07.19.2011 at 01:32 am    last updated on: 07.19.2011 at 01:33 am

Finished Traditional Kitchen (lots of pics)

posted by: jm_seattle on 03.05.2011 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

THANK YOU GARDENWEB! We got so many great ideas from this forum, and everybody was so incredibly helpful and generous.

Here are some pics and a few details:
Kitchen corner
Refrigerator and pantry:
Message center:
Message center with built-in chalkboard
Breakfast nook:
Breakfast nook
Our KD wanted an extremely large window area to bring in light, but made it fit into the old house by breaking it up and using leaded glass:
new leaded glass windows
Sink w/glass filler, runnels, & built-in compost bin:
Sink w/Runnels & built-in compost bin
Built-in compost bin close-up:
Built-in compost bin
Mug shelf:
Mug Shelf
Charging drawer. This entire cabinet is deeper than it appears because it is built into the interior wall behind it, gaining an extra 4" or so of storage space without creeping into the walkway in front of it:
Charging station built into drawer
Island cabinets:
Island cabinets wtih cutting board
Miele ovens installed as flush inset (I searched and never did find pictures of this, so hopefully these will help somebody else):
Miele appliances mounted flush inset
Cleaning closet in "invented space" from interior wall:
Cleaning closet
Extra depth for the vacuum was made by reducing the depth of the drawers under the pantry:
Cleaning closet
The placement of the outlet underneath the music player shelf allows the nasty cordness to be hidden from eye-level:
Music Shelf
Toe-kick heater vent. The toe-kick face under the message center & island is covered with stained oak flooring. From eye-level, the toe-kick absorbs the correct amount of light and gives the appearance of freestanding cabinets.
Under island heater vent
The freestanding appearance is clearer here:
Cabinet built-into wall
Drawers under nook seating area:
Under-seat drawers in nook
There is a powder room off the kitchen. This wasn't our first choice, but ended up being our only choice in this old house, and has been okay, especially considering its placement is directly next to the hallway and away from the primary cooking area:
Bathroom off of kitchen
Adjacent mudroom, which became part of the kitchen remodel. The door is to a laundry chute which we use mostly for kitchen towels & napkins.

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures


clipped on: 07.19.2011 at 01:21 am    last updated on: 07.19.2011 at 01:22 am

RE: Materials scientists among us? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remodelfla on 06.29.2011 at 06:22 am in Kitchens Forum

For your reading pleasure

Here is a link that might be useful: more then you may care to know


clipped on: 06.29.2011 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2011 at 02:16 pm

RE: Please HELP find wall mount water filter faucet (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: davidro1 on 06.28.2011 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

instead of posting a never ending series of paragraphs about fine grained details, i prefer to hold off until the thread takes a new direction and receives new input. That is a way for me to ensure two things related to sanity and balance. One is (a) that I get something in return, e.g. perhaps some new twists, new ideas, new views, new information and the other is (b) that I only spend an hour or two here and there instead of all my life in "being helpful" to no end.

At this point in time to the best of my recollection you have asked me for nothing at all that is specific, so it is fine if in this post I give you nothing of any significance in terms of content here.

From the tapmaster site:
"What powers the Tapmaster? The water pressure that exists in the hot and cold water lines powers the Tapmaster. The Tapmaster is a set of valves, which uses the water pressure existing in your water lines to operate (hydraulically), and therefore requires absolutely no electricity. When the Tapmaster is installed the system pressurizes automatically and is ready to turn the water on and off.

i'll bet your architect will love being given the mandate to draw a spout. There may have already been a billion spouts made since the days of the Roman Empire and the Qin/Xian dynasty, and nobody ever needed a drawing back in those days. Now, we've become a litigious society, and we always want to keep re-doing things until they're perfect, so everybody asks for drawings. I would say to the welder, hey, anything that you can make, with a minor bend in it.

For a visual inspiration to see a tube bent into a spout, he could look at the 135 degree angle of this spout: K-952-CP STILLNESS . You may want more bend than that. If it's welded, you don't need the round thingie at the base (escutcheon) but unless you say this to the architect, he / she might not think to eliminate it in the drawing. The shape you want is a thin thin thin tube or pipe. If you weld two tubes together, you could have a stronger spout and a spare spout too. Or three tubes. One day, your filtered water could go into an instant hot tank and that could feed the second spout. Hint hint. If you weld two together, the two tubes could be side by side or one on top of the other. The idea of welding parallel thin tubes is that you get your mechanical support from the multi-walled-ness of the 2 or 3 tubes being put into a unit all together as one. The welder might say that a single thin thin tube will one day get bumped and then broken or bent. The place where the tube connects to the backsplash is a weak spot where he will want to "spread" the base so that the backsplash stays flat and doesn't warp there.

Check into the filter you bought. Some of them give high flow outputs. Good to know now.



clipped on: 06.28.2011 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2011 at 03:23 pm

Medicine cabinet in kitchen

posted by: kathylquiltz on 06.17.2011 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yesterday I received a very clever email about someone's retirement project of a medicine cabinet in the kitchen. I have spent 45 minutes trying to figure out how to post the pictures and text somewhere that I could link to. I've given up. If one you would like to see the email and then post it to the forum, contact me and I'll send it to you to post if you'd like. Perhaps this "project" has been shown previously, as I haven't been on this forum for more than a year or so. It might give someone a well needed giggle.

KJoger @ mchsi . com remove spaces


clipped on: 06.25.2011 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2011 at 11:59 pm

Resurfacing marble at home -- can be done

posted by: sayde on 05.02.2011 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our marble slabs were originally polished when they were received by the fabricator. Those who read previous threads know that when we received them they were horribly botched -- uneven rough patches and very visible swipe marks. Looked like acid was used, and a very poor job of it.

I had been wary of choosing marble because of the possibility of etching. Now, we were confronted with marble that had been unevenly and severely etched all over, and we had to decide how to proceed.

We did recover some funds from the fabricator.

And then DH rehoned the marble himself. He used 5 inch diameter 320 grit Abranet pads on an orbital sander. He followed by going over the surface with pumice. It took about an hour for the first pass and then we went over some of the areas again. The marble became silky smooth and even, while retaining the matte honed appearance. We finished with two coats of sealer.

I'm posting because I was one of many who feared getting marble in the first place because of the etching. There is no doubt that it will etch in future, but I wanted to share that it can be resurfaced.

I love the Danby marble. I feel much less worried going forward seeing how it can be brought back to a perfect smooth honed surface. Just wanted to share this with others who want marble but are concerned about etching.


clipped on: 06.11.2011 at 02:39 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2011 at 02:40 pm