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RE: What options do I have at this time of year to get rid of poa (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: tiemco on 04.09.2010 at 01:56 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Round up will certainly kill poa a., but it will also kill your bermuda if you spray. If it's time to fertilize then go ahead and do it. The poa is there, and will be there if you fertilize or not. Sure the fertilizer will benefit the poa, but it's not going to take over your grass any faster. Plus you will be soon mowing your bermuda frequently which will keep its height in check, although it will still persist and produce seed till the summer heat takes care of it (or not, depends on the poa). The round up on the glove method is just as it sounds. Roundup is absorbed through the blades or leaves of whatever plant it contacts. So to kill just the poa you need to get Roundup on just the poa. If it is sufficiently longer than the Bermuda then you can just grab the poa with a glove wetted with Roundup, just don't touch the Bermuda. It's pretty time consuming, probably takes about the same amount of time as cutting the poa out of your lawn.

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clipped on: 05.23.2010 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2010 at 01:00 pm

RE: advice please - poa is back, worse than ever (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: garycinchicago on 04.23.2010 at 01:05 am in Lawn Care Forum

Here's the nut!

>"I tried last year to dig out severel problem areas, and then patched the bare spots in with plugs I dug out from my back lawn. Though that seemed to help for last year, I fear I may have actually made things worse, perhaps by disturbing the soil."

Yes, disturbing the soil!
Poa seeds remain viable in the soil for MANY years.
You know they are there, so .... do NOT dig, core aerate or dethatch anytime in your future. Just say NO. Let a sleeping dog lie.

Round Up the area/spots, over lapping the area a little bit due to any poa annua underground rhizomes and inter-twined blades with the KBG and apply a pre-emergent to this area - never disturbing the soil. Using a combo product, like say Scotts Turf Builder with Halts is ideal for this purpose. It will prevent any germination while encouraging the KBG to fill and spread into the void with the added fertilizer.

>"but in the summer it seems to fade/die off anyway"

And this is your clue!

You are familiar when this happens in your area every year. Since poa annua dies when drought and heat stressed, so help it! Do NOT irrigate prior.

Yes, your KBG may want to go dormant, and if it does, it will recover. Not to worry.

When you notice the poa being stressed and browning out, (August???) THIS is when you apply the fall preM, before soil temps drop to favorable temperatures for germinating additional poa annua.

Once your fall preM is down, you can water. After Labor Day, feed it ... bombs away. Labor Day, Mid October and around Thanksgiving. Fall IS the best time to fertilize and you want that KBG to fill in those voids.

And FYI
Halts - Pendimethalin has a 90 day residual
Dimension - Dithiopyr " 120 "
Barricade - Prodiamine can last 8 months when applied at the heavy rate.

You have a longer growing season on LI than I do in Chicago.
2 or 3 apps will be needed depending on the product you use. Come spring, forget the forsythia. That's great for crab grass. Apply earlier for poa annua. Better early than too late.

Kill the poa annua and feed the KBG ... it will fill in. Click link below for visual proof. KBG is outstanding at this! *YOU* too can do it also!

Here is a link that might be useful: P. Annua Repair

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clipped on: 05.23.2010 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2010 at 12:56 pm

RE: Earthworms, earthworms...earthworms (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 05.04.2010 at 11:06 am in Organic Lawn Care Forum

On other forums there is some discussion about the use of the liquid "aerators" called Aerify and Nitron. Generally they seem to work when used frequently. One of those is a soap based product and the other seems to be based on yucca extract. Both of those materials are surfactants. If you want to try that out without paying a huge premium for soap, I would try some generic baby shampoo from wherever. Put it full strength into your hose end sprayer (or mix it with beer like Jerry Baker ;0 ). Adjust the sprayer so that you see just see foam coming out. Spray monthly for 3 months and then skip to every other month. The idea of the surfactant is to break the surface tension of the water and allow it to penetrate deeper. The screwdriver does somewhat the same thing by opening up holes for the water to penetrate the first 3 inches without resistance.

Your light yellow grass with the seeds sounds like poa annua. You'll have puhlenty of that next year. I think preemergents were designed for poa annua.

Deep infrequent watering won't affect the grubs but it will positively affect the beneficial fungi. You want fungi. The soapy water should help, there, too. The best organic control for grubs in the south is beneficial nematodes. In the north milky spore seems to work better. Both have their idiosyncrasies. Beneficial nematodes need very wet soil to move around. Apply during a heavy rainstorm. Like now would be good in Tennessee. Milky spore needs to have a big presence in the soil. Seems that repeated apps every 6 months for 3 years is needed.

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3/4Beer & 1/4 dish soap/shampoo set at 2oz per gallon
clipped on: 05.07.2010 at 01:49 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2010 at 01:50 pm

RE: Invasion of the Grubs....and Ants! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 04.27.2009 at 12:10 pm in Lawn Care Forum

The two things that usually spoil ant food storage are sugar and yeast. I know it sounds crazy to feed sugar to ants but not all ants eat sugar. For those that carry protein type foods down into their holes, molasses spray really chases them away. For the ants that eat sugar, yeast seems to chase them away. Unfortunately yeast is much more expensive than molasses and most people aren't willing to pay what it takes to cover the yard. However, you can make a yeast bait that attracts ants. Equal parts of table sugar and molasses with a small amount of baking yeast works fine. I'm not sure how to cut it down but I made some with 1/2 cup of sugar and molasses and a teaspoon of yeast. That seemed to make a lifetime supply of a gooey mess. I smeared a gob onto a piece of cardboard and put it out where the ants could get it but the dogs could not. It didn't happen immediately but eventually the ants found it and swarmed in. I saw the ants diminishing in number on the cardboard but still they finished it off and I had to reload. The second gob never got finished as the ants went away. Presumably the yeast does what yeast does and ferments sugars releasing CO2 gas. What that does to a food supply I can only imagine. Two weeks later I was ant free and did not use any poisons.

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clipped on: 05.05.2010 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2010 at 12:46 pm