Here was the fireplace when we looked at the house -

(sort of wishing I had kept screen on and painted the brass black and called it a day... too late now!)

Here are some updated pics of the fireplace -

The opening for our fireplace is 32 1/4 wide and 25" tall.

And here are pictures of the house that I think pull in the same shapes as the screen -

Our house is very open and you can see from the front door this fireplace so I want it to look right.

Here is the one I have my eye on -

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187835215P#desc

and

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM187834346P#desc

Style numbers are different but can't tell why.

Here is the RH one - similar except the material which that along w/ the brand name alone jacks up the price I'm sure - yikes!
http://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod1640035&categoryId=cat160088

And this is the one I actually might even prefer b/c no doors (never have owned/operated a fireplace but would imagine unless doors are sturdy, you will end up moving the entire thing completely to add logs?

http://reviews.lowes.com/0534/1179159/reviews.htm
(they no longer sell this one so I'm out of luck but thought I'd share)

Thoughts?

I have three 12" pendants. When I first opened the box, I thought they were too big, but they seem to fit perfectly. I have two over the island and one over the table. I think one 12" over your sink will go perfectly with the two smaller island ones. Mine are hung a little higher so they don't seem so huge. Maybe you could do that over the sink, hang it a little higher than the island ones.

Let me know if you want other angles.

Here is the fixture. I really love the holophane prism glass. I am not sure about the finish may go for polished chrome, more classic, but I will have some ORB handles & polished or satin nickel.

Here is a photo of the window (trim will be white, not natural)

There will also be two small pendants over the island. Imagine this as a hanging pendant, not on an angle. The diameter is no more than 5".

Here is my 2nd choice - 8" diameter, Love this light, but may be too industrial looking. Also 100 Watts.

It is not a very large kitchen, so I don't think it scales for very large lighting (though I have seen large lights look great in some kitchens.

Photos of your 12" pendants & feedback would be great. Off to Houzz for more ideas!

From 2011-07-19

From 2011-07-19

Here is a link that might be useful: Highland ridge

What we love: The layout (Many thanks to all the GW-ers that helped us!) , Sharp MW drawer, our granite, cookbook storage, the pantry, cutting board storage, Brookhaven cabinets and drawers

What we might do differently: Our dark floors look nice, but they need to be swept literally twice a day. A lighter color would be a lot easier to maintain.

Typhoon Bordeaux Granite

Cutting Board Storage

Full Extension Drawers (with Rev-a-Shelf spice drawer organizer)

Our (messy) Pantry

Stained Bamboo Floors (In the left corner of this photo, you can see how the kitchen is open to a great room that was way too messy to post.)

Details:

Cabinets- Brookhaven French Vanilla, Edgemont Recessed style ("Face" on small drawers)
Granite- Typhoon Bordeaux
Paint- SW Svelte Sage
Backsplash- Sonoma Star Butter Crackle
Fridge- CD Jenn Air Side by Side (Plenty of room, even though it�s CD)
Oven- GE Monogram (Love the sliding racks!)
Microwave- Sharp MW Drawer
Rangetop- 36" Electrolux Professional
DW- KitchenAid
Hood- Best by Broan
Faucets- Kohler Simplice
Sinks- Kohler
Floor- Engineered 6 inch Handscraped Bamboo with Pecan Stain
Barstools- Overstock.com
Pendants- Sea Gull Serenity

Thanks again for all the helpful information on this forum!

".....perimeter cabinets are going to be white and the
island is stained a dark chocolate, almost black...."

There are some fantastic suggestions above, I will instead
post the visual of a dark island and lighter perimeter
cabs with granites that are gray and white (non brown or tan)

Hope these help you visualize your space.
~boxerpups

Sienna Cream

Sienna Cream

White Persia

Delicatus

Bianco (this looks like white river to me but the the
images from google said Bianco)

White Spring

Alaska White

Sienna Cream

Marble

Marble. I know, I know you don't want marble but wow
is it pretty.

Stunning...is all I can think of. I love EVERYTHING!!!

Cabinets are IKEA Askome, and granite is Black galaxy. The island is a little over 6' wide by 4' deep.

Before pics: we moved the kitchen into the family room, the dining room into the kitchen, and the breakfast area into the dining room. (The living room turned into the family room, and the office will soon turn into the living room ... more to do around here.)So these photos are not exactly classic before/afters. (And it's a snowy day, so bright outside, not the best for pics. Oh well.)

Old kitchen

Corresponding view

Old family room:

Corresponding view

Old dining room (both visible walls are now gone)

Corresponding view

I was previously opposed to knocking out both walls, but I am glad we did. For the way we live, it works much better. Entertaining is a cinch now. Because the kitchen is vaulted but the other ceilings are low, it doesn't feel like a huge empty space (that's what I was worried about). And I liked my "other" house, just not the kitchen. It was awful.

I'll post details here, and more specific photos in a subsequent post.

-Cabinets-
Aspen Leaf Kitchens in Denver/Berthoud, CO; proprietary Primer White, BM Taos Taupe on island and butler's pantry, and custom-stained antique pine on breakfast hutch

-Appliances-
SubZero BI-36U fridge, pro handle
Wolf 48 DF range with 4 burners and double griddle
Viking 54 in. hood liner with heat lamps
Thermador DWHD64EP dishwashers
KitchenAid KBCO24RSBX three-zone beverage center
SubZero 700BCI refrigerator/freezer drawers
Sharp 0.8 cu ft microwave

-Counters-
Minas soapstone on perimeter cabinets and hutch
Calacatta gold marble on island and butler's pantry

-Hardware-
Restoration Hardware Gilmore cup pulls, Aubrey knobs and handle pulls, Clear Glass knobs in antique brass, and Season knobs and Hanson pulls in ORB

-Sinks-
Main: soapstone farm sink crafted by Terra Bella/Denver CO
Prep: Ticor S3650

-Faucets-
Main sink: Kohler HiRise bridge with sidespray
Prep sink: Kohler HiRise bar faucet

-Lighting-
Wilmette Clark pendants in ORB (breakfast nook)
Wilmette LaSalle wall sconces in antique brass (later photos)
Visual Comfort Classic Ring chandelier in AB (dining room)
Visual Comfort Four-Light Siena pendant in AB (butler's)

-Island stools-
Ballard Designs Dorchester counter stools in rubbed black (all other furniture and rugs previously owned)

Here are some of the details:

New Bosch Fridge
(Old whirlpool Dishwasher)
New Sharp Convection Microwave
The cabinets were made by our carpenter (LI guy: John Dicapua)
Drawer Hardware is Restoration Hardware (Aubry and Gilmore pulls) & Horton brasses hinges and knobs
Paint is BM Edgecomb Gray Walls
Cabinets are BM Simply White
Our existing granite is Bianco Romano
Existing Stove is Jenn Air
New Wood Countertop is from Hardwood Lumber Company "Character Walnut" (carpenter cut it) I finished it myself with waterlox!
Brackets under the upper cabinets from Capital Lumber
Feet under base cabinets from Osborne wood (they are shelf brackets!)
Columns on the island are from Tablelegs.com

Here are the "Before" pics

Here is the After, non lived in version:

This is from mbarbie's kitchen. Looks like the 7" Benson and they are only about 24" apart (I saw a lighting plan). I think the island is a 4' square.

I'll also post a link discussing the Benson pendant. Srg215 ended up using the 11" Harmon because she thought the benson looked too big. Here is her kitchen:

Jgopp specifically said they used 7" Bensons. They look big or small depending on the perspective:

Wow! I love all these kitchens.

Here is a link that might be useful: Benson pendants

Okay, let me see if I can answer all the questions:

This was part of a big remodel, which was helpful because we could pick all colors and whatnot at once. Our house used to end where the ceiling height changes and our kitchen was enclosed, no island (and 1950's disfunctional appliances) and the area where the desk is now is where we had our dining table. So, we extended the kitchen the long way mostly, and added the island where the counter and wall used to be. I hope that makes sense. We LOVE having that desk area. It's so nice for the kids to do homework there and we use the cabinets on either side of it for pantry area.

Paint colors:
Benjamin Moore Natura
1000 Northwood Brown walls in the kitchen
998 Cabot Trail in the family room (somewhere I read...probably on this forum...that it works well to use two colors that are two or three PMS colors apart).

Cabinets: Bejamin Moore Aura in Acadia White. I find it looks pretty bright white in the middle of the day with bright sunlight shining in, and then quite creamy at night when the lights are on. The first two coats were sprayed and the final coat was brushed so we would be able to touch up when needed. Another thing I learned on the forum!

Pendants and fixture near the desk: Restoration Hardware. I think the pendants are called Benson and it's the smallest size.

I forgot to mention the cab hardware too. All of it is from Restoration Hardware with the exception of the latches. I originally got their latches and they were horrible (not smooth to operate). I found a woman on this forum who had tested lots of latches and recommended ones from Rejuvenation. I got those...small size in oil rubbed bronze. They match perfectly with the Restoration Hardware pulls and knobs in ORB and they work great! Thanks Mary! (I think that's who it was).

On the soapstone I've been using Bee's Oil from Holland Mills (another thing I found on the forum!). They gave us mineral oil with the counter, but it didn't last as long and got more splotchy looking than the Bee's Oil.

Let me know if I forgot anything!

Julie

We started the actual demo/remodel at the end of June 2009, and we were back in in early September, but it was not "completely finished" until we received our counter stools/window treatments in late fall. I love working in this space, and it is wonderful for entertaining.

link: http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/pssternpictures/

Here are some of the details:

Cabinets: Omega/Dynasty - Destin door style
Perimeters: Maple, Oyster finish with a caramel glaze
Island: Alder, Sable finish with a coffee glaze
Hardware: Top Knobs M827-96 and M827-7, Oil Rubbed Bronze
Countertops: Twilight Red granite
Sink: Franke PRX 160, stainless undermount
Faucets: Waterstone, Annapolis faucet, filtered water faucet,
side spray, air gap in satin nickel
Garbage Disposal: In-Sink-erator, Evolution Essential
Lighting: Recessed lighting
Pendants: Quoizel Monterey Mosaic Mini Pendants
Chandelier in Breakfast room: Quoizel Monterey Mosaic Bowl
Range: Thermador, 36" gas, PRG364EDG
Hood: Thermador VTN 1000 CFM
Refrigerator: Thermador, 36" Bottom mount freezer, French Door
Dishwasher: Thermador, DWHD64EP, 6 cycle
Microwave: Sharp, 30" Stainless Microwave Drawer, KB6525PS
Backsplash: Field Tile: Lycian Simena (travertine, 3x6 subways)
Framed piece behind range: Sonoma Custom Blend
Floor: Azuvi Austin Crema 20x20 porcelain tile
Breakfast Table, Chairs, Counter Stools: Artistica
Paint: Benjamin Moore, Louisburg Green over the sink
Benjamin Moore, Saybrook Sage in Breakfast and Family Rms
Windows: Milgard
Window Treatment: Custom valance and woven shades

Before:

After:

Don't be afraid of color. If a big old swatch of red is just the ticket for your kitchen I'd say do it. I put my money where my mouth is. Cobalt Blue and a backsplash to match. Notice how the electric blue fleck in the granite also picks up the color.

-Stooxie

I cannot remember how high your ceiling will be with your remodel, but we have 8'2" ceilings. The Zephyr hoods can be mounted 28" to 36" above your cook top. I will verify with the Zephyr distributor's rep tomorrow, but it appears the height depends on the ultimate height of the ceiling. This range is without an extension kit & works for ceiling heights up to 10'. Although our KD had specified the hood to be mounted 33" above the cook top, it appears that with 8' ceilings 28" to 29" is all that can be accomplished without having the stainless steel outer chimney cut. Since I am 5'3" it really doesn't impact me & actually my 5'11" husband doesn't feel like it blocks his view, but we are interested if our contractor missed something with the installation. I'll let you know if anything significant comes from the meeting.

The specifications for the Zephyr (& several of the hoods we considered) recommended 6" duct work, thus that is what we installed. We were told the ultimate effectiveness is diminished by # of turns in the duct work. Thus, each turn is like adding 5 feet to the length of the pipe, but with the 700-ish cfms of the Zephyrs you should be fine. I cannot remember the sones, but we are happy with the quietness & the effectiveness of the pull. I do not hear the motor even at high speeds, but of course hear air pulling (we would have loved to install an in-line vent as we did in the Master Bath, but couldn't get the pipe easily into the attic). I mostly run on the lower speeds (1 & 2) & find them very sufficient for removing smelly cooking. I have not yet burned something & needed to use the higher speeds . . .

One caveat: we are venting to our deck area, thus wanted an attractive exhaust cover. I found one (Builder's Edge -- Home Depot & Lowes can match siding) but it reduced the 6-inch pipe to 4 inches right at the end. It actually caused whistling since the cfms are so strong. We ultimately replaced with a similar, slightly more expensive, slightly bigger (& less attractive, but close to the siding color) model that kept the pipe at 6 inches & we have no problems.

(I read this thread earlier, but didn't have time to respond. I have not re-read it, so I hope I have addressed the issues/concerns adequately.)

Good luck with your decision.

We ended up completing the house project ourselves so finalizing the kitchen and getting settled has taken some time. Hosting Thanksgiving for 14 was a major catalyst in the effort to at least get our main floor permanently decorated. Now the only thing missing is the barstools!

from the great room


Side by Side Refrigerator- Love it. I hated the previous french door refrigerator we had. So happy to go to the side by side.

Angled Corner cabinet- I know these aren't popular, but the storage is fabulous for all of our stemware.

Cabinet on the back of the island- its amazing how much fits under there!

Microwave cabinet- Since we don't use the microwave that often, I'm glad we hid it. With our open floor plan, I didn't want it visible from the great room and dining room except when in use.

5 Piece Drawer Heads- these were an upgrade, but I love the way they look.
Drawers, Drawers, Drawers- Love them! I had a lot of drawers in our old house and went with all drawers this time except for the sink base and the corner susan.

Pantry- Custom designed the shelf layout.


Lower Corner Cabinet-

Lights-

Dining Room Table- just off the kitchen. Thanks for your help on selecting the table. It was delivered just a few days before Thanksgiving. It has one more leaf that we take out for everyday use.

Some details:
Kitchenaid Appliances-
Refrigerator: KSC525MVMK
Wine Cooler: KURG24RWBS
Dishwasher:KUDE40FXSS panel ready
Range: KDRS467VSS
Lights: International Lighting 23341057 London Mist Four Light Seedy Glass Bell Pendant
Backsplash- Horus Cristalli Crackle Subway in Bianco
Knobs and Pulls: Alno Creative Inc knobs:ALN56206 1 1/4" / pulls 3 1/2" cup pulls solid brass in barcelona finish ALN56510
Faucet- Moen Brantford in Stainless
Disposal- Insinkerator Evolution Series
Sink- Blanco Silgranit in Biscuit with Offset drain Diamond Single Basin #440196
Granite- White Alaska/Delicatus
Cabinets- Brookhaven in Antique White for Perimeter and Matte Brown with black glaze for the island. Door style is edgemount recessed
Floors- 5" wide white oak quartersawn vertical grain with glitza (no stain)

The design firm that we bought our cabinets from sent in a professional photographer to take pictures of our kitchen for their ads/portfolio, so I thought I'd post these too since the lighting is significantly better than in the ones I took! Also, giving a link to the original thread with the details of what is what.

Hope everyone's kitchen projects are going well!

Here is a link to all the photos, there were too many to post.

http://photobucket.com/amykdg

Here is a link that might be useful: Original reveal post

Anyway, here are the details:
Appliances: all KitchenAid, except for the Sharp MW drawer
in the island. Range is 36" dual fuel, with a
griddle.
Cabinets: Mid-Continent, maple painted white, with soft
close drawers and doors. We chose all wood
construction.
Perimeter counters: Honed Carerra marble
Island top: Dark walnut, with a mineral oil finish
Floors: 5" wide white oak, stained 75% jacobean, 24% dark
walnut.
Lighting: Pendants, Quiozel, I think. Breakfast chandy is
Overstock.com!

Things I love so far: 1. Soft close!! Love!! Although we have it on all the drawers in the house, we only did the doors on the kitchen and butler's pantry cabs. Wish we had done it everywhere.
2. KA dishwasher and range...both of these have been wonderful so far, DW is so quiet and cleans really well. Range and oven are very easy to use and have nice, consistant heat. Plus, I think very pretty! :)
3. MW drawer...so awesome, love it to pieces!
4. Under cab lights...never had these before, we have them on a dimmer, they are wonderful.
5. Walnut top...everyone who visits swoons over it...it is a wonderful, warm surface.

Things I DON'T love:
1. Fridge! Counter-depth french door is awful! We had to buy an auxiliary fridge for the garage, and I am contemplating adding a fridge drawer to the island.
2. The distance from the range wall to the island seems a scooch too big, I think it is 48". I could have moved the island a few inches closer to the range.

I will do a seperate post about my experience with honed vs. polished marble (I have polished in the master bath.) There are pros and cons to each, I have found.

Anyway, Nini's kitchen!

Details:

Link to my photobucket album: http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r53/cat_mom/kitchen/

Our cabinet company: http://www.royalcabinet.com/ (our cabinets are cherry veneer in a "flame" grain pattern with slab doors, with a very light, "watered down" stain, grain matched from top to bottom of each cabinet/drawer stack, and side to side where possible or necessary, matching cherry wood light rails under the upper cabinets, maple veneer interiors, plywood boxes, wood shelves, dovetail drawer boxes, all wood full-width pullouts).

Our handles are from Valli and Valli: http://www.vallievalli.com/vcrmobile/home.php?lingua=eng&page=serie&id_serie=389 (style A 230 in sizes A, B, and C).

Hidden pulls are from Hafele: http://www.hafele.com/us/external/catalog/decorative/244-259.pdf (Page 245, the black one, but the smaller size--not as wide).

Julien sinks (Nicole Arsenault in Customer Service is a doll!): http://www.julien.ca/en/products/residential/index.html (ours is from the urban edge collection; model # 3715; 30" X 17" X 10", plus the matching sink grid).

Grohe faucet; the Ladylux Caf�: http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/33755/ (we got the all stainless steel version, see bottom of page), the soap dispenser (Model # 28 857 SDO,stainless steel) and the Ladylux Pro pot filler faucet (stainless steel): http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/31042/.

Handles, sink, faucets, and soap dispenser came from Hardware Designs in Fairfield, NJ: http://www.hardware-designs.com/ (Sean Sweeney�great salesperson!).

Wolf Range: http://wolfappliance.com/ (we got the Wolf AG 36" with six burners; Model R366), purchased from Leibert's Royal Green Appliances: 228 E Post Rd White Plains, NY 10601 914-949-5999 (they do a lot of Wolf/SZ volume, so offered good pricing on our range).

Pando hood: http://www.pando.es/ (we got the P900, not sure if it�s on their site, which isn�t a great site by the way).

Miele dishwasher: http://www.miele.com/usa/dishwashers/product.asp?model=353&series=76&cat=2 (Miele Optima, fully integrated).

GE microwave: http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SPECPAGE&SKU=JEM31SF&SITEID=GEA (JEM31SF with trim kit).

KitchenAid 42" built-in refrigerator (in stainless steel): http://www.kitchenaid.com/catalog/product.jsp?src=Built-In+Refrigerators&cat=89&prod=1284 (KSSC42QTS)

Dishwasher, microwave, range hood, and refrigerator came from Reno�s Appliances (Elmwood Park, NJ store, now moved to Patterson, NJ. Also located in Fairfield, NJ): http://www.renosappliance.com/

Andersen 6 ft wide three window bow window: http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/AW/AWProduct/awProductDetail/AWProduct/1135095640489/1102951372825?model=400+Series+10+Casement+Bow+Window&pc=Window&tab=1-1 (Pine interior�stained to match the cherry cabinets, Terratone exterior, Tru Scene insect screens�wood veneer interior stained to match the cherry cabinets, satin nickel Estate handles/hardware).

We got all blumotion glides and hinges on our drawers, pullouts, and cabinet doors. All glides are 75 lb rated except for the mixer pullout which is 110 lb rated. We also got the soft close hinge clips from blum for all the hinges: http://www.blum.us/usa/en/index.jsp Most of the hinges are 150 or 170 degree opening hinges (except in doors that just can�t be opened more than 90-110 degrees because of their location. Those will keep the 110 degree opening hinges). The 170 degree hinges allow for full width pullouts, and seem to be easier on the edges of the doors themselves.

Our granite is called Labrador Golden Flake: http://www.igmcorp.com/pGranite/labradorGoldenFlake.html (the place we got it) http://www.thegraniteshop.net/materials/02expanded/lab_golden_flake.htm (another picture, maybe a better representation of it).
You can see pictures of our actual granite in my photobucket album.

Backsplash is from Artistic Tile: http://artistictile.com/Collections/?place=3191&category=33 (Stilato pattern in Wolfgang White; installed vertically).

Wood switchplates are from Arnev Products, Inc.: http://www.arnev.com/ (cherry on message center wall and on island, ordered unstained/unfinished and then stained and finished by Royal Cabinets to match the cabinets, maple ones used inside one or two cabinets, ordered with poly, no stain).

Our under cabinet (U/C) lighting is Kichler Linear Lighting (xenons) with black tracks, wiring, stabilizer clips, splicer boxers, and bulb holders:
http://www.kichlerlightfixtures.com/Kichler Linear Lighting.htm http://www.littmanbros.com/pd_kichler_linear_lighting_molded.cfm

Our fan is from the Matthews Fan Company (Edwin is a great help with any questions!): http://www.matthewsfanco.com/Matthews Pages/Bettina-Main.html# (the Vent Bettina in polished chrome with mahogany blades).

Our heating in the kitchen consists of two toe kick heaters from Turbonics http://www.turbonicsinc.com/ (two Kickster +4�s, one on each side of the island).

Our counter stools are from Design Centro Italia/italydesign.com (Nathan): http://www.merchantmanager.com/ita6377/MM001.ASP?pageno=933 (Baba black leather counter height stools).

Our stepstool is from Williams-Sonoma: http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/h167/index.cfm?cm%5Fsrc=PRODVIEW&showsku=6049753 (Ultraslim Compact Aluminum Step Ladder, 2-Step).

Our dishtowels are from Wm. A. Kilian Hardware Co. (online): http://kilian.stores.yahoo.net/ritflemwonto.html (Ritz Flemish Wonder Towel).

White oak floor, no stain, 3 coats Bona Traffic poly.

Walls are painted with Benjamin Moore White 01 wall paint in AquaVelvet finish.

Some pictures:

More pics will be added to my photobucket account/album(s) within the next day or so.

I want to thank everyone here for their advice, encouragement, and support as we made our dream kitchen a reality! I learned so much and I know we couldn't have done it without you all in our corner!

This kitchen remodel sort of exploded from the kitchen, to the dining room, to the family room, laundry. Mostly the kitchen was done, we just tied all the ceramic floor tile all through the kitchen, dining room, family room and laundry.

My Cabinet are Laureldale Amaretto Creme Glaze, by KitchensForLess.com in Culver City, CA Charlie Torres is wonderful to work with. This is an online store where you have to know what you want and they place the order for you.

My Granite Counters are Typhoon Bordeaux and were purchased from a Prefab Granite Company

My Stainless Appliances are from the GE Cafe Series, love them and ordered them online also.

Pictures

http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/h469/rericksonsd/

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen pics

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

• Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

  Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.



• Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.


• Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.
  • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
  
  
  • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
  
  
  • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
  
  
  • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.
  
  

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

• To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)


• Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.


• Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied


• Chips: Using something very hard & metal�hit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks

Measuring:

• Before the templaters get there...
  
  • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
  
  
  • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
  
  
  • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
  
  
  • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
  
  
  • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
  
  
  • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter
  
  
• If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them


• Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.


• Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

  Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement�and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!



• Factors determining seam placement:


• The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)


• Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available


• Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.


• Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.


• Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -


• Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.


• Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.


• Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece


• Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
  Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.

Installation:

• Seams:
  

  One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

  
  
  • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
    
    • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
    
    
    • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
    
    
    • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
    
    
    • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
    
    
    • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
    
    
    • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
    
    
    • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

• Checklist:
  
  • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
  
  
  • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
  
  
  • Make sure the seams are butted tight
  
  
  • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks
  
  
  • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
  
  
  • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
  
  
  • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
  
  
  • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
  
  
  • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
  
  
  • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
  
  
  • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
  
  
  • Check for chips. These can be filled.
  
  
  • Make sure the top drawers open & close
  
  
  • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
  
  
  • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
  
  
  • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
  
  
  • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
    
    • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
    
    
    • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
    
    
    • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
    
    
    • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
    
    
    • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.
    
    
  • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
  
  
  • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

• More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
  If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam


• Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA


• When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.


• Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB


• Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!


• When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see


• Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)


• Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust


• If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.


• Suggested Prep for Installation:
  
  • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
  
  
  • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
  
  
  • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
  
  
  • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
  
  
  • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides
  
  
• Countertop Support:


• If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop


• If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required


• If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:


• Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino


• i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

Here is a link that might be useful: Additional Granite Choices

Now, I'm wondering if I can achieve this look with polished Brown Antique granite and full overlay cabinets I've selected instead of soapstone and inset? The wall color I selected is similar but a bit lighter, the window treatment is almost identical. The backsplash is the same. I'm still debating pendants and bar stools but was thinking along the same line. I'm questioning whether I should get the Brown Antique granite honed??? I really love all the mica that really stands out in the polished granite and I don't know if I will love it honed but will the polish make it look too formal or fancy (two things I'm definitely not)? I'm so confused. Any thoughts???

Open adobe acrobat reader. Right-click the toolbar and choose More Tools. Near the bottom of the list is Select & Zoom Toolbar category and within that is the Snapshot Tool. Click the box to check the tool. Press ok and you should see a little camera with a selection box around it near the zoom percentage.

How it works in windows - press the camera and then draw a rectangle around what you want. It will snap a picture of the rectangle and copy it to the clipboard. Run the picture program of your choice (I use Microsoft paint out of laziness) and paste the image. Save as a jpeg and then follow the excellent instructions in buehl's excellent New to Kitchens post. Did I mention it was excellent?

Hint: The image will be what you see - so if its very reduced, other won't be able to read it.

Hint 2: You can select more than you can see.

Example of an inspiration picture I caged from a real estate listing pdf of an old English house. I liked it a lot, except the pulleys scary me.

Pics inside of pdf's tend towards low resolutions. If you don't like what you see, you can always ask architect or whoever to send you a jpg of the kitchen options and adjoining areas.

This is what I changed:

1. Moved doorway - best decision yet!
2. Added 2 flanking cabs on window wall - one for pantry and one for coffee system, speed oven stack, and later: a fridge drawer
3. Created a buffet/hutch-like library bar with see-through glass cabs (not symmetrical but does it work? Or, do you prefer Option #2 with just the 12” columns on each side?or #3 with equal cabs flanking?) I didn’t put a wider cabinet on the right side of the bar because the architect advised me to try and save a more open view into the living room where people hang out, watch tv, etc.
4. Added more seating and a trash pull-out to the island
5. Lengthened the window wall countertops to 28” and the upper cabs 18” (doesn’t show but it’s planned)

Things I didn’t do:

1. Consolidate dishwashers - I love my prep sink view out to the golf course too much (and the view out the other sink window isn’t very good)
2. Flip refrigerator (to right of range). Ugh. It probably makes more sense to have it on the right since the kids move in and out of the tv room through the door where the fridge would have been. But, I’m thinking I’ll leave a cabinet ready under the stack to put a small fridge drawer there someday. My budget isn’t that elastic so it’ll be a placeholder. Plus, I like the idea of leaving and entering the kitchen with the glass cabs there. Just a personal preference.
3. Didn’t put Miele coffee/espresso maker in the beverage zone (i.e., library bar). It actually works better from a flow perspective to have it in a stack with the Miele speed oven/micro- DH makes his coffee in the morning, which would be away from my zone for making breakfast and the kids’ lunches. (Also, it’s 22” deep so if I put it in the glass hutch area I wouldn’t have the glass cabs. Right? Or am I not thinking outside the box?)

Could you please look this over and tell me what you think? Could you:

1. Comment on the layout
2. Comment on the library bar OPTIONS(Option 1, 2 or 3- or something else :)) I want your opinions!

Here's the current floor plan for the kitchen:
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Here's the overall floor plan - so you have a sense of flow into the rooms and how the kitchen is connected to everything:
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Here's the drawing of the glass hutch (on one side of the library bar) option (OPTION 1):

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Here's the drawing of the columns only (on the bar) (OPTION #2)
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Here's an earlier drawing (OPTION 3) I was considering but moved away from because I was nervous that it obscured our view into the living room - what do you think?
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Here's a similar pic of what columns only would look like:
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Here are some pix of the glass hutch option:

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Here's a pic of what the library bar cabinets could look like on the other side of the bar (i.e., the library side). In other words, the cabs could be glass on the kitchen side but paneled on the other/library area side - to hide the 4" and 6" structural beams
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Columns we're doing (traditional/boxed/painted)
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An inspiration pic for our island (I like the legs and the way it accomodates a lot of seating; also, the cab style and color; notice too the Miele stack on the left - that's what we're aiming for on the sink wall; and the lighting I love - but it may be too large/out of proportion with our short 7'9" ceilings :(
">

Windows and french doors we're doing for the dining and living rooms leading outside (again very traditional)- you can even see a sliver of a coffered ceiling, which is what we're doing for the dining room (next to the kitchen)
">

P.S. Regarding the library bar---
I really, really, really want a glass hutch in my kitchen -we love to entertain and it would be a great place for glasses, etc. However, the only place that probably works is on the library bar. And since we're taking down the wall where that bar is going to be, we're hesitant about closing that space up again with too much flanking cabinetry on top. And our architect pointed out that (particularly on the right side of the bar), if you add too much depth of cabinetry, then it will significantly cut down on our view into the living room which will basically be our "great room" where people relax, watch tv, sit by the fire, etc. SHOULD THIS BE A GUIDING PRINCIPLE for not beefing up the cabinets on the library bar? If so, then we'll probably just go with the two 12" (half) boxed columns on the bar - to create as much openness into the rooms as possible. This is mostly a form over function question. I think I've worked out the functionality of that zone - i.e., beverage zone. The only thing missing is the coffee system but that is used primarily for the morning - and having my DH out of my way while I'm prepping the kids' lunches is a nice bonus :). You'll see I also included an option for having the glass hutch flanking only one side - but DH worries it's not symmetrical and that the proximity of the half column (which is not the 12"x12" dimension like the new free-standing columns going into the dining room)looks inconsistent and odd. We're adding those free-standing columns because we're knocking down the wall btw the dining and living room. We really want openness but we want some delineation of space - which is why we're so hung up on the library bar and whether the columns or the cabinets on top would be best.

House is a 1963 'faux-Colonial.' Kitchen (10ft x 11ft) had the original cabinets, counters and wall oven. Floor was a green vinyl from a 1970's update. Previous owners had removed a wall between the dining room and living room. Dining room has red oak floors finished in an oil-based poly.

Huge thanks to everyone here for posting advice and problems;I learned from all your posts. Also a shout-out to my mom, who helped make sure the Lowes designer paid attention to the design we wanted and didn't just place a random cabinet order for things that wouldn't have fit.

Cabinets-Kraftmaid Durham Maple in Praline ordered from Lowes
Floor-American Olean Highland Ridge porcelain tile in Evergreen
Stove-Kenmore Free-Standing Gas Range #7290
Backsplash-Florida Tile Livingston in Gold, 3x6
Faucet-Delta Leland in chrome
Hood-Kobe CH2230SQ
Sink-Kraus Single Bowl
Granite-Verde peacock
Windows-Marvin Casement and slider
Fridge-existing Amana French door
Dishwasher-existing Kenmore
Pendant lights-Onyx pendant by LBL Lighting
Undercabinet lights-strip LEDs
We saved money by staying within the footprint and not moving any major plumbing.

Old Kitchen

Old Kitchen

And here it is now:

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures from demo to inbetween to finished

Cabinets and hardware by Kraftmaid: Upper - painted, Biscotti with Coconut Glaze; Island - stained Cherry, Kaffe
Floors - existing, red oak refinished
Wall paint - BM Wheatfield
Granite - New Colonial Dream, from Marble.com
Backsplash - Jerusalem Gold limestone, from Antico Stone
Mural (over the range) - mail-order from Jerusalem Pottery
Faucets - Brizo Talo, the main one SmartTouch
Sinks - Elkay
Range - NXT
Fridge - Samsung
Built-in Microwave/Oven - the 120V Advantium (GE Profile)
Dishwasher - GE Profile 580

All comments are welcome, thanks!

Cabinets: custom natural cherry Amish made
Counters: Beleza soapstone
Backsplash: Slate corinth from The Tile Shop
Floor: existing vinyl from Lowes
UCL: LED strips installed by DH
Bar stools: Trica Swirl

Early 2010 we decided to sell our brand new home and buy a 40 year old home in an established neighborhood. The home was lovely, had good bones, but needed much work so we moved in with the in-laws while an entire home reno was completed. Well, we moved in late last year (made it in for Christmas!), then spent the winter searching for backsplash, ordering samples and catalogues, buying tiles, returning tiles, putting backsplash up, taking backsplash down (!), and completing the kitchen in time to spend the summer re-landscaping the entire 1/3 acre property. Now that things have settled down I've finally taken the time to take a few proper snaps of the finished product!

Some background: The house was a larger executive style but with a disproportionately small kitchen (I think common for its vintage), so we removed a load bearing wall and utilized an adjacent family room as additional kitchen space. The house has rear southern exposure yet the original kitchen had no windows exposed to the south (?), and we were determined to correct that. To boot, we live in the foggiest neighborhood of the snowiest, foggiest, windiest city in Canada... Winters are long, spring is nonexistent, and summers are short... so bright was important!

My wife and I did all the design work ourselves. Being an engineer, I took the function (structural modifications, materials, layout, ergonomics, appliances, gadgets, etc) while she took the form (colors, finishes, fixtures, fabrics, etc). I discovered the GW Appliances Forum while researching appliances and quickly found my way here to Kitchens. By then the fundamentals had been largely settled (the L-shape was unavoidable, sink wall without uppers were a must, separate coffee/beverage station and eating area were musts, as were cream colored cabinets, yellow walls, and hardwood floors) but I think I spent hundreds of hours reading through the archives here and learning new things (and even occasionally posting..!). It was here that I learned about the importance of zones and proper aisle widths. It was here that I learned of induction cooktops, roll out pantries, pull out pantries, dish storage in drawers, vertical tray storage, soft closures, and firsthouse_mp's paper towel cubby (which I have so shamelessly stolen!). It was here that I learned we weren't alone in spending more time finding the perfect backsplash than it took to build the actual kitchen!

So how did it turn out? It could be considered a bit of an eclectic mix of modern (crystal pendants, mirrored induction cooktop, metallic glass backsplash), traditional (5 panel doors, ogee edged countertops) and rustic/country (floral fabric, hand scraped floors, stained Amish table), but we love it. It works like a charm and it's easily our favorite room in the house. Thanks to everyone for your help and I hope readers in the future can gain as much inspiration from this posting as I have from those who've posted before me.

First the details:

Double Ovens - Miele H4892BP2
Induction Cooktop - Thermador CIT365GM
Vent Hood - 36" Ancona Rapido Chef
Warming Drawer - Jenn-Air paneled
Dishwasher - Miele Optima G2472SCSF
Refrigerator - KitchenAid 72" CD KFCS22EVMS
Microwave - KitchenAid Undercounter Convection KBHS179SSS
Beverage Center - KitchenAid KBCS24RSSS
Standup Freezer (in mudroom) - Kenmore Elite Commercial SS
Faucets - Main Grohe Ladylux3 32226, Beverage Station Grohe Ladylux3 32283
Sinks - Main Houzer MS-3210SR-1, Beverage Station Houzer CS-1607-1
Cabinets - Custom 5 panel mitred in BM OC-88 Indian White, made by local cabinet maker
Hardware - Richelieu oil rubbed bronze knobs/pulls, Blum soft closures on doors and drawers, Richelieu vertical lift hinge for appliance garage
Counters perimeter - Zodiac Quartz in Giallo Michelangelo
Counter island - Zodiac Quartz in Saddle Brown
Backsplash Cooktop Wall - Saltillo Imports Metallic Glass 2x4 Subway
Backsplash Elsewhere - Crema Marfil Polished Marble 2x4 Subway
Island Pendant - Trillium by Glow Lighting with Danube crystal
Table pendant - Avalon by Glow Lighting with Danube crystal
Flooring - Kraus Madeira Collection 5" hand scraped oak in Golden Saddle finish
Simply Amish 48" round table, Loft II single pedestal, maple
Simply Amish chairs, Urbandale II, maple, side chairs painted Antique White, desk chair stained
Blinds - Robert Allen @ Home in Sperling Geranium
Wall Paint - BM CC-190 Summer Harvest

Before:

During (notice the LVL beam install and the temporary walls supporting the entire second floor, needless to say my wife was nervous at this point..!!):

After:

And finally, Daddy's Little Helper. This is what happens when a 4 year old discovers that Daddy's camera has a remote control. One of many self portraits...!!

Thanks for viewing!

Whaddya think, GWers?

The kitchen in my new house, rebuilt from ground-up after a tornado 2.5 years ago. God willing, this one will stand longer than that last "dream/forever" kitchen!

Feel free to look through the photo album if my kitchen looks like your style - ask any questions, I'm more than happy to try and repay all the amazing help I got here on the kitchen forums ... you guys ROCK!

Here is a link that might be useful: Finished New Dream Kitchen

I planned the kitchen myself-- a little tricky as the room is not rectangular. I originally planned a white/soapstone kitchen, but ended up going with a more earthy scheme because the kitchen is open to the FR, and also I thought the colors would be more family and pet friendly-- we have 5 kids, a dog and a cat. We are all very happy with our new space, and the surfaces are indeed forgiving.

We remodeled mainly because I disliked the downdraft range on my island. Plus, the cabinets were looking pretty shabby and some of the doors were splitting. I cook a lot, often for a big crowd, and I am loving the efficiency of my new kitchen.

Here are the details:
Cabinets: Ikea Tidaholm oak in black/brown, and Adel birch in medium brown (in pantry area and planning peninsula). I chose Ikea because I love their organization systems and their Blum tandembox drawers and glides. I assembled all of the cabinets myself and changed the edgebanding to match the door/drawer fronts. I was kind of excited to find "Made in Italy" stickers on all the Tidaholm doors. My GC's carpenter installed the cabinets. All drawers are full extension with soft close.
Pulls: Hickory Hardware
Granite: Madura Gold
Backsplash: Jeffrey Court's Fire and Ice, enhanced, kashmir grout (thanks Jodi in SoCal for the inspiration)
Range: Bluestar 36" RNB with island trim. The cabinet run on the range wall is pulled out 3 inches.
Hood: Futuro Futuro 48" plane (980 cfm)
Ovens: GE Monogram Advantium over ZET
Dishwasher: Bosch Integra 800 series
Refrigerator: Samsung French door RFG297. We pulled out surrounding cabs to make the fridge look built-in.
"Kid fridge" 24" LG LRBP1031 in Titanium-- love it! Holds the kids' yogurts, drinks, fruit, ice cream, frozen baked goods, ice packs-- and keeps the kids out of my way. In the same footprint as refrigerator drawers, I got twice the space at half the price. Between the Samsung and the LG, I have almost 40 cu. ft. of refrigerator/freezer space.
Faucets: Grohe K4 (prep sink) and Alira (main sink)
Tapmaster at main sink
Soap dispensers from Never MT web site
Sinks: Zero radius, 15 gauge stainless from Ebay-- 30" at main sink and 23" at prep sink
Table: Oak from reclaimed antique floor joists, from Ebay (barnseeker.com)
Chairs: Bonded leather from Overstock-- love them
Floors: Red oak, Refinished and stained Minwax golden oak, 3 coats of oil-based poly
I kept my old kitchen light fixture and ceiling fixture. I'm still planning on adding a couple of puck lights to the shelf behind the hood-- I have outlets at the tops of the high cabs, with a switch next to the range.

Thanks for looking!

Here is a link that might be useful: Morton5's finished kitchen