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Converting unfinished cottage 2nd floor to living space

posted by: nbptmomto3 on 03.09.2010 at 06:14 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Does anyone have experience here? It's our summer home, a small Cape Cod in Cape Cod. It's about 1200 sq ft and has an unfinished 2nd floor with access through a pull-down stair case. 1 window on either side, no dormers so a fairly steeply slanted ceiling. The kids are getting older and we need more room. We'd like to plumb for a second bath (but not actually build the bath - yet). We'd like to maximize sleeping, add a kid tv area and some built in storage in the knee walls. One room, I think, will be fine for our intended purpose. Has anyone done anything like this?


clipped on: 09.27.2012 at 02:51 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2012 at 02:51 pm

RE: 1949 Cape Cod--Book recommendation (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: moccasinlanding on 02.10.2010 at 12:44 pm in Old House Forum

Dian57, when I was learning about Capes, I discovered a really fantastic book which I recommend to you.

By Jane Gitlin, published by The Taunton Press in 2003.

It is a part of the Taunton Press' series called UPDATING CLASSIC AMERICA.

I bought my copy from Good bedtime reading!!
I asked hubby your best chance of finding the building history, and he said the same thing as powermuffin.

Another forum you may find helpful is THE SMALL HOUSE.


clipped on: 09.26.2012 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 09.26.2012 at 01:01 pm

Hanging a very heavy shelf and nervous

posted by: girlndocs on 02.09.2010 at 12:50 pm in Woodworking Forum

I have an IKEA Varde shelf to hang in my kitchen; it's by far the heaviest thing I've ever hung, and the wall it goes on doesn't seem to have any studs at all (it's a short bit of wall dividing kitchen from bathroom). Since this shelf will hold my vintage glassware and ceramics, I'm getting the cold sweats about it.

As usual, the Lowes and Home Depot guys don't seem to have a clue. They recommended those little plastic screw anchors.

So what do I do? Molly bolts? Toggle bolts? Those newish WallClaw anchors that say they hold 90 lbs each in 1/2 inch drywall?



clipped on: 08.25.2012 at 07:44 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2012 at 07:44 pm

Plaster in finished attic replaced with insulation and drywall

posted by: katie99 on 03.31.2009 at 12:52 am in Old House Forum

Hello, all. I just bought an 1857 Gothic Revival fixer-upper in northern New Jersey. The attic is a finished accessory apartment consisting of several rooms plus a kitchenette and bath.

A few years ago the previous owners tore out a lot of the plaster ceilings and walls in the attic and replaced them with insulation and drywall. (This is directly against the roof and exterior walls, as opposed to insulating the floor of the attic.) The remaining plaster has a lot of cracking, possibly due to the three layers of shingles on the roof weighing down on it, but the drywall is also having problems, especially that all of the tape is coming loose and peeling off. I don't think it's due to shifting of the house, because I'm not seeing much cracking on the walls of the main floor.

I have been reading in other threads that attics and roofs need to be allowed to breathe or else problems may develop with humidity build-up and other issues. I am starting to wonder if installing the insulation and drywall was a big mistake that has upset the ecosystem of my house and is causing these problems. If that is the case, what the heck do I do? Remove the insulation? Who would be the best person to consult with? A roofer? A plaster restorer? An engineer?


clipped on: 08.25.2012 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2012 at 12:51 pm

2nd floor laundry room do's and don'ts

posted by: galleyette on 06.26.2011 at 02:01 pm in Remodeling Forum

I posted initially on the laundry forum, but thought the best info might be available here instead.

We are constructing a small addition that will include a second floor laundry room off the existing master bathroom. The interior dimensions will be approximately 5'W X 10'L. The current plan is to run sink, FL washer, dryer and folding counter, all along the 10' exterior wall. The new machines are LG and are built to reduce vibration. A floor drain will factor into the plan as well.

We have read several theories on floor construction for second floor laundry rooms, ranging from pouring concrete pads (with and without rebar), reinforcing floor joists, adding anti-vibration pads, and last but not least, using foam pool noodles wedged between the machines. Because this is a new build, we'd like to do it once, and do it right.

Is there a definitive 'best way' to do this? Any advice would be appreciated.


clipped on: 08.09.2012 at 01:10 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2012 at 01:10 pm

Possible cure for second or first floor F/L vibration woes

posted by: monaw on 01.31.2010 at 09:12 am in Laundry Room Forum

I'm about to have a Miele washer/dryer installed on second floor of my home and thought I would share this info/idea with anyone who is searching for possible solutions to the vibration hell that some speak of. First of all we have put a 3/4 inch piece of plywood which is screwed and glued down on top of oak flooring. I intend on using the following treatment other than using plywood instead of oak that this gentlemen did: (the following is copied)

"Heres what we did to solve the noise and vibration problem. I cant take credit for this solution as we read this solution in another review and tried it and it worked for us. I am VERY grateful I found the solution on the Internet. We have a weak floor that vibrated & the washer on spin cycle would travel around the floor due to the vibration. Leveling the washer was NOT enough to stop this problem. We had a local lumberyard cut us three 1"x12" solid oak boards to place on the floor as a solid base for our washer and dryer. We also put a stall mat on top of these boards. A stall mat comes in 4x6 dimensions and is inches thick. Its made of an extremely dense rubber material (one of these mats will weigh 100 pounds or more). The stall mats are available anywhere farm materials are sold. Sometimes they are called cow mats, or horse mats or even barn mats. They are made to cushion the floor for a horse or cow (and can withstand the wear and tear of 1400+ pounds of animal and their hooves and waste each day so theyre VERY durable). I bought ours for less than $40 so its NOT an expensive solution. You can cut the mat to size with a common utility knife. Just lift the edge of the mat and cut the proper width. Its not difficult. Once the washer and dryer are placed on this solid base, you wont have ANY problems with vibration or noise. Even an apartment installation would be adequate to dampen vibration to those below the apartment. It works great. The base looks professional too if you make it to the exact size of the washer/dryer combo".

I will post the results after installation.


clipped on: 08.09.2012 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2012 at 01:08 pm