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Tyler - large images - step by step instructions

posted by: technodweeb on 11.24.2007 at 04:48 pm in Brugmansia Forum

I'm sorry - I should have started a new post for this so others don't have to wade through it under the passiflora

Tyler:

Here are instructions for imbedding clickable thumbnails:

1. After you log in to your account - you should see a page like this. Go to the red circled tab:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


2. Then - click on the blue "images from my pc" tab:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


3. Browse out to the new picture you made with paint:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

4. Select your new picture that you want to upload and hit "open"


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


5. Hit the Upload Button

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

6. Check the Checkbox next to the image you want to show

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


7. Go to the bottom of the page and click the "generate HTML and IMG Code" button

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

8. Select the code in the top box by just clicking in the box. The code will be automatically copied.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

9. Come back to the "message" box for the Brug forum and RIGHT click your mouse button and hit paste.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

10. Hit the Preview button

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

11. You should see the small thumbnail in your preview


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Hit POST. . .and viola. . you're done.

I hope that makes sense. I tried to give you step by step.

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clipped on: 11.25.2007 at 08:19 am    last updated on: 11.25.2007 at 08:19 am

HAVE: have lots of purple mg's for sase

posted by: medontdo on 10.27.2007 at 07:57 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

please help me get rid of these!! LOL i never knew how fast they multply!!! LOL

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clipped on: 10.30.2007 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 10.30.2007 at 10:20 am

My Orchard Calendar

posted by: scottfsmith on 03.06.2007 at 09:45 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I have been making a monthly calendar of the orchard tasks I need to do so I don't forget. Maybe you will find it interesting to see how I do things. It surely is missing several important things but it has a lot of them. Questions and comments appreciated.

Scott

Dormant Season
Maintenance actions
Stake any leaning trees
Check tree tags and re-tag any trees missing their tags.
Tighten up trellis wires

Moving
Move plants earlier rather than later to give them a chance to establish.

Dormant Pruning
Do this as late as possible on the grapes to prevent winter injury, and somewhat late on the kiwis and stone fruit.

All Trees: Prune back crossing branches on trees. Form either a gobelet or a spindle shape on all trees. Aim for 1' or more between every vertical on the gobelet.
Black Currants: remove 1/3 of bush once its 2+ years old.
Red Currants: I need to look into this more, the British way is to prune them way back like grapes but the US growers don't seem to do that.
Gooseberries: cut leaders by half and thin.
Blueberries: after 4-5 years prune out oldest canes from base.
Kiwi: Prune similarly with grapes.
Grapes: don't do any pruning until March due to the dessication issue.

March Early
All Trees: Do dormant sprays now, they are most effective closer to when bugs start waking up. L/S and dormant oil on everything besides small fruits and 'cots; copper on 'cots. Make sure to L/S pears for pear blister mite. Until CB under control do copper on all stonef.
Pruning: Now is the time to do the grape and stonef pruning. See notes -- aim for ~5 nodes per linear foot on the grapes.

Fall bearing Raspb: Cut to ground
June bearing rasp and blackb: Thin canes and remove any dead canes

Everything: start up the mulching process on all beds.

March Late
Figs: unwrap when temps are going to stay above 25F.
Kiwis: trellis up again if I had any laid on the ground.
Trailing blackberry: tie back up canes that were on the ground

Stone fruit: in cold snaps use row cover on them to protect blooms
Strawberries: Thin beds to one plant every 6" or so.

Major fertilization starting NOW -- see above. Up to mid-April is fine, in fact that may be a better time. Put under mulch if the mulch is there.

April
Start vigilance for coryneum blight, aphids, beetles, caterpillars, fireblight, psylla, blister mites, deer, rabbits!!

Its grafting season!! Early April for apples and mid-april for stone fruits seems to be the optimum. Wait for warmer weather for peaches (hi 75-80 lo 50), they don't like it too cold.

Early April, All Trees: sulphur+nuFilm17+seaweed or copper at pink to fight brown rot and other diseases. In general, sulphur any time from pink to petal drop and sepal drop is a good idea. Nufilm17 will mean a spray a bit early will still be effective.
All Trees: Sulphur+Nu-film17+seaweed or copper at petal drop and sepal drop to fight brown rot and other diseases.
Mid-April Pawpaws: hand pollinate the flowers with a brush. Another idea is put a handful of cottonseed meal under trees to attract carrion flies.
Peach: major alert for shothole; try to spray between every rain, best right after.
All Trees: Inspect all trees for borers from 1" above to 2" below ground; surround globbed there is one defense

All Trees: Petal fall: start surround spray regimen NOW and maintain until harvest.

Grapes: Start weekly spray, first one at 1" green. See above for the sprays to use; rotate through the different sprays. Other disease-prone fruits to hit occasionally with leftover spray: cherry, currant/goose, apple seedlings

May
All Trees: Thin fruit to one per cluster or one every 6". Thin asian pears very heavily. Bagging happens now.

Vinafera Grapes: Crank up the spraying in mid-May -- thats when the diseases really take off. Hit hard, hit as often as needed. Also need thinning -- when? Some need more thinning than others.

Strawberries: mid-late May put out netting on Earliglow. Also add pepper spray. Consider getting some red rocks as decoys.

June
Figs: pinch off shoots to slow down growth and force plant into making figs

Blueberries: need netting mid-June for bird protection.

All trees: Prune new growth back by half.

late June: begin Japanese beetle vigilance, picking them off daily. Surround spray on bad outbreaks.

Red currants: Possibly prune red currants now, according to Growing Fruit: 5-6 leaves on each lateral (assumes I pruned each lateral to one bud only in the dormant season).

July
Raspberries: After bearing, cut back the 2-yr canes to the ground and thin the 1-year ones to the biggest canes only (one every 4-6 inches).
Strawberries: thin out runners.
Grapes: don't forget to do an occasional spray in this period, something like monthly, or the diseases will get going again.

August
Blackberry: remove producing canes (floricanes) after harvest. Thin primocanes to 10" apart.
Cherry: cherries need a disease spray or two this month, usually for powdery mildew.
Grapes: bag clusters as they start to sweeten with paper bags to deter birds and wasps

All Trees: Summer prune new growth on all trees back by 1/2

Bud grafting time if any to do

September

October
Overwintering Protection Plan (late Oct or early Nov)
Figs: after leaf drop, prune back heavily and protect with reflecting bubble insulation cover.
Feijoa: Same treatment as figs.
Fuzzy kiwi: Mature plants need nothing. Lay down younger ones on ground and cover.
Marionberry: Untie the canes and cover with reflecting insulation
Persimmons: spray with wilt-pruf to prevent desiccation

November
All Trees: Rake up all fruit tree leaves to prevent re-infection

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clipped on: 04.09.2007 at 10:46 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2007 at 10:46 pm

RE: What happened to my squash/zucchini flowers?? pics (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: feldon30 on 07.04.2006 at 01:11 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Sevin dust kills bees and other pollinating insects. Bees pick it up, bring it back to the hive, and kill the entire hive. You will now have to hand-pollinate your squash, cucumbers, melons, etc. Tomatoes and peppers are self-pollinating.

There are many many solutions for insect control that work without throwing the baby out with the bath water.

If you have caterpillars/worms, dust with BT (Dipel Dust). Completely non-poisonous and only harms caterpillars and selected worms.

Aphids, whiteflies, cucumber beetles, etc. spray with Insecticidal soap (a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid in a bottle of clean, chemical-free water).

Slugs and snails can be controlled with copper tape, copper wire around your plants, a little saucer full of beer, or by hand-picking after dark. There are also organic pellets I think like Sluggo.

If that doesn't work, you can preventatively spray your plants with Neem oil, preferably with Pyrethrin added to it. Neem is an extract from the Neem tree. Pyrethrin is crushed up chrysanthemums. As long as it's not sprayed in the morning when bees and other pollinating insects are actively working, it's completely safe.

I know some home remedies sound like a joke, but the above all work and people grow beautiful vegetables without using harsh chemical pesticides like Sevin.

Sevin is an ABSOLUTE LAST RESORT and most people here refuse to use it.

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clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 06:32 pm

RE: Best kinds of Mangos (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: CoolPlants on 09.17.2005 at 12:40 pm in Tropicals Forum

Keitt is a good variety. It's huge and like the kent. Those would be my #1 &2 for fruit growing.
Once your tree gets some size, just in case of a bad winter, you can get the large size of xmas tree lights for ourdoors and string them up and through the tree. I kept an avocado alive one bad winter as I had my tipi covering the tree along with the lights.(back in the mid '80's)
In bad winters, a frost will zap the leaves first. subsequent frosts will get the trunk and branches. A real bad hard freeze can kill it all in the first night. I'd think positive here tho.
kevin

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clipped on: 04.03.2007 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2007 at 09:50 pm

RE: Things that won't grow in Florida (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: pieceofparadise on 07.16.2005 at 10:31 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

This book deals with flowers- A Cutting Garden For Florida by Betty Barr Mackey & Monica Moran Brandies. I have loaned this book soooo many times to gardeners that move here and are frustrated by the plants they can't grow. These two women did a a ton of testing. They rearranged the growing seasons of many of the northern annuals and perennials to fit here. Many, many flowers will grow here. Our seasons just don't follow the back of the seed packs or the tags on the plants at nurseries too well. They give a month by month list of different plants that will thrive. It truly is one of the gems about Florida flower gardening.

Megan

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clipped on: 04.03.2007 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 04.03.2007 at 10:01 am

RE: Question about how to use Leaf Mulch (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sylviatexas on 11.10.2005 at 11:50 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

You can shred 'em by running over them with a lawn mower or by putting them in a big trash can & "stirring" them with a weed eater.

When you apply them to the beds or plants, wet them down.

or...

Go to Starbucks & get "Grounds for the Garden" & mix them with the leaves or add them to the beds/plants on top of the leaves.

Then you'll have not only mulch but compost-in-the-making, which means:

insulation now, richer soil next year, no hauling stuff all over the place!

Best luck & have fun!

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 10:31 pm

RE: love gardening on the cheap (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mid_tn_mama on 05.07.2005 at 11:18 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

Welcome. Those old snooty forum folks don't deserve you. But we do!!!

Of course you probably know about using plastic miniblinds cut up to make plant markers. Use a china pen.

This year I have lots of saved seeds and hope to fill my pantry and freezer full with food for the year.

I've been successful at growing potatoes from the eyes I find in my potato peels. Actually I bury them all for organic matter and some make potatoes!! Absolutely free from the "garbage"!!!

I save all those glycerine bags from shoe boxes and other items and use them in my big folgers can that I keep my seeds in.

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 09:45 pm

RE: Any advice on making tomato cages? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: led_zep_rules on 04.19.2006 at 02:08 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

I have a gazillion tomato cages (okay, probably 40-50) and I got them all free. Some were from my mom, some from my brother, many were found in people's trash. Most recently I get them from the metal recycling area at my local dump/recycling center. People bring them in to recycle, and sometimes they get set to the side so that someone else can take them. Otherwise, as I have no shame, I pull them out of the dumpster! I also get almost all my metal fencing this way, I bought some once years ago when I was less frugal. Seek and ye shall find! This is a good time of year to find them, people are cleaning out their garage. Drive around in the suburbs on trash day is my best advice, although I found all mine accidentally without even trying. Also my wheelbarrows and trellises and many pots. Many people are so stupid and wasteful, use it to your advantage. I also got a lot of bamboo stakes free.

Marcia

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 09:23 pm

RE: Cheapest mulch cover available? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: newbieroselover on 05.25.2006 at 08:03 pm in Frugal Gardening Forum

I regularly pick up bags of free sawdust from a local woodcarver/wood shop, which helps them out since it reduces their dumpster load. I do let mine sit about 6 months to compost before using it, but if you want to use it right away, you could add a sprinkling of alfalfa pellets (super cheap at feed stores) or used coffee ground from Starbucks first, then sprinkle on an inch or two of sawdust. This should keep the uncomposted sawdust from robbing nitrogen from the soil.

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 03:34 pm

RE: Cheapest mulch cover available? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: nitelite on 05.22.2006 at 07:56 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

You might want to consider your electric company, most electric companies have tree trimmers on payroll that go around and trim up the trees that are getting close to threaten the power lines by them.

Our electric company has a form, you fill it out, mail it in, and the next time they are in your area, they will dump some for you.

Blessed Be,
Carrie Ann

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 03:32 pm

RE: Cheapest mulch cover available? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lee53011 on 05.20.2006 at 10:43 pm in Frugal Gardening Forum

Try calling local tree trimmers. Many times they will be happy to dump a free load of mulch in your yard instead of paying to get rid of them.

Lee

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 03:29 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 03:29 pm

RE: Aerating (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: wildbill on 06.11.2006 at 12:34 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

I use a pitchfork and do small areas at a time. I also scatter/sprinkle a few buckets of compost over the lawn if I know it's going to rain.

I know some folks drive nails into old shoes and walk around over the lawn.

I hope this helps.

Bill

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 02:53 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 02:53 pm

Compost From Thrown-Away Materials

posted by: sylviatexas on 07.26.2005 at 08:20 pm in Frugal Gardening Forum

To make compost, all you need are carbon & nitrogen.

Carbon:

cardboard, available at stores of every description.
Dollar stores, grocery stores, fast-food restaurants, & beer or liquor stores have them by the zillion.
Find out when their trucks deliver, & pick up your materials that evening or the next morning.

If you work in an office, you may have access to shredded office paper, which also works beautifully.

Newspaper, too, is a good carbon source.

Nitrogen:

coffee grounds, available at Starbucks by the bagful.
"Grounds for the Garden" is a Starbucks corporate program, & all company-owned Starbucks participate:
Occasionally, a franchise such as the Starbucks in, say, a Target store, doesn't do it, but generally you'll get a friendly greeting when you ask for "grounds for the garden".
It's good publicity for Starbucks, & it reduces their waste disposal costs, 'cause *you* are "taking out the trash"!
If there's no Starbucks nearby, approach a locally-owned place (especially one that specializes in breakfast).

I pick up tea grounds every night from a local fried chicken place, both because that's polite & because they'll throw out the tea grounds if I don't:
tea grounds sort of ferment & get smelly if not removed every day.

Lay down some cardboard, cover with coffee or tea grounds, then cardboard, then coffee grounds, just like making lasagna! Be sure the top layer is grounds or a little soil, to keep the cardboard or paper from blowing away.
Wetting it down will speed up the process & help weigh down the materials.

Soil already has microbes in it, so adding it to the pile gives it a "jump start".

You don't even need a bin:
just dedicate an area & pile up your materials.
You can even use a hot concrete slab in a sunny area:
the hotter the surface it sits on, the faster your compost pile will "process").

Compost is "black gold":
it costs about $30 a cubic yard if you buy it in bulk, or $8 to $10 for a 2 cubic foot bag in the stores (& that bagged stuff is to compost as fried pies in the grocery store are homemade peach cobbler!)

and it can be made:

*free*
in an urban setting
with no "eau de horse manure"!

Have fun!

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 09:02 am    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 09:02 am

RE: Free! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: organic_plant_lady on 02.15.2007 at 09:20 pm in Frugal Gardening Forum

I got some free rocks had to pick them my self in the rain all the while dodging biting insects... Free Roses of Sharon plants had to dig myself but the homeowner came out with some fancy tool she want to show off so the time went a lot faster. Also free wood mulch it took me 5 months to clear it out and spread it everywhere... I always ask for people-friends to bulb share you be surprised how many folks hate all that mondo grass and would love to thin it out or have had their fill of all those irises. I usually check www.Freecycle.com as well as www.craigslist.com
happy gardening from zone 8

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clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 08:46 am

RE: Your favorite frugal gardening tip (Follow-Up #75)

posted by: plumfan on 04.19.2006 at 02:08 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

I cannot believe that this thread is two years old and nobody has mentioned grafting!

Mail order fruit trees cost can run you from $20 to $35 apiece, or even more, then you need to consider what postage and handling adds to your bill.

Grafting permits you to make your own fruit and nut trees for about one tenth the cost of retail, quite a savings!

Grafting is pretty easy to learn. I whetted my taste for it on the internet, then actually bought a very good book about it by RJ Garner that is the best manual I have ever laid my eyes on. So in all, pretty much self taught (or at least 'self-read'), and now I am actually teaching others.

You can buy rootstocks for around $2 each, trade other people scion wood, or just buy it outright for a dollar or two per stick (usually you can graft half a dozen trees up from a 8 or 10 inch stick of scion wood). Thus you could whip up a half dozen fruit trees for around 12-15 bucks, plus or minus. That same half dozen trees, retail, would run you around $130 to $210, depending on what and where you bought from. If you buy rootstocks by the 25 or more count from places like Raintree or One Green World, the price goes down to 1.75 each, usually.

This is one tip that has saved me alot of cash over the years. I have grafted some 90 kinds of plums, 40 or more kinds of apples, plus decorative hawthorns, and assorted gooseberries, peaches, apricots, cherries, pomegranites, jujubes, mulberries, roses and persimmons. And I am probably forgetting a thing or two :)

I forgot to mention that it is also a very interesting and fun craft. You can use it anytime a tree has leaves on it, and in some cases, when there are no leaves. Well worth learning -- it adds a whole new dimension to gardening!

Here is a link that might be useful: one of many grafting links

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clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 03:42 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 03:42 pm

RE: Your favorite frugal gardening tip (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: MOgardener on 06.14.2004 at 02:33 pm in Frugal Gardening Forum

If you are in a rural area with some cattle producers, ask for their empty protein supplement tubs or post a notice at the local feed store that sells the supplement. These tubs have about a 20 gallon capacity and are handy as a pocket in a shirt.

My uses:

Brooded small numbers of chicks
Kept a weak baby goat in a secure place
Store feed and components (holds 100# of black oil sunflower seed if you shake it down)
Provide water to small numbers of animals
"sled" for moving materials over frozen ground
Haul water to trees too far from faucets--my garden tractor will easily handle 2 tubs in a small trailer
Keep minnows alive between fishing trips

And they are recyclable too!

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clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 03:24 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 03:24 pm

RE: Your favorite frugal gardening tip (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: cocomo49 on 05.26.2004 at 11:59 am in Frugal Gardening Forum

Probably not my favorite tip, but one I just thought of a couple of days ago--I cut up an old vinyl tablecloth with the whatchamacallit (I've gone blank) soft backing into about a zillion strips for tying up tomato, hollyhock, etc plants. I won't have to worry about ties for years! I like to use old hose on trees so they will move in the wind, but some plants I want more stable, & the vinyl stretches just a little for some "give". The soft backing protects the plant too. I cut them up length-wise & left them really long. That way I can cut them to size where I use them.

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clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 03:21 pm

Attract Bats! A single bat can catch aprx 1,200 skeeters per hour (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: LauraZone5 on 07.05.2004 at 10:49 pm in Woodlands Forum

Why bother with nasty chemicals or one of those new fangled mosquito magnets from Home Depot that costs around $300 to clear 1/4-1/2 and acre when you could have something incredibly more efficient? Consider getting yoruself an appropriately sized bat house.

We purchased several bat houses that are totally inhospitable to bats due to the fact that they were just way too darn small. Unfortunately, I had no knowledge of size requirements at the time. I found a set of plans on the Internet and downloaded those and was quite excited until a man from the beekeeping forum gently burst my bubble. He did, however, send me a set of plans that were very appropriate for the species of brown bats that we have in my area. If anyone would like a set of those blueprints, e-mail me and I will send them off to you. I did a little poking around back then when I first received my blueprints and learned that I needed to place my bat houses under the eaves at an elevation of around 25' preferably facing sw or se. I believe the height of the bat house will vary from species to species but about 20 seems to be the minimum for all as a 20 foot clearance underneath is required in order for them to release from their upside-down position, unfurl their wings, and to attain lift. Way cool! Makes sense to me.

I learned why many people who install bathouses don't get any occupants. Most mount their bat houses on trees. Bat houses are used as nursery/incubators and they need to be exposed to sunlight in order to create internal temperatures needed for the young to survive (over 100 degrees for many species). Also, bats don't like to have to negotiate branches and things when they're flying in. This would have been why the man who sent me the bat plans instructed me not to install my bat houses in or around trees.

I also just picked up a little bit of information pertaining to the color of the wood. In my climate, I need to go dark to absorb heat. The color differences are requisite to create the proper temperature inside the bat house.

Now heres what is interesting, I had no idea so many species of bats were threatened until recently. More than half of American bat species are in severe decline or already listed as endangered- hmmm, could it be due to all the trucks spraying chemicals to kill mosquitoes??? I also learned that bats are the slowest reproducing mammals on earth for their size, making them exceptionally vulnerable to extinction. I also found out that that one little brown bat can catch 1,200 mosquito-sized insects in one hour. Well, that places bats high on my popularity list. Learn something everyday it seems.

Heres a book that might be at a local library-
The Bat House Builder's Handbook by Merlin D. Tuttle, Donna L. Hensley

Heres a link to a fancy bat house for anyone who may have a "picky" home owners association-
http://www.mulberrydesigns.com/vicbat.html

http://www.batcon.org/
Bat Conservation International

Here is a link that might be useful: Extremely functional bat house that has future expansion potential

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clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 11:37 am

RE: Attracting a colony (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dghays on 03.10.2006 at 06:13 am in Bees and Beekeeping Forum

Well I guess I found my own answer, while watching 'Victory Garden' a lady discussed attracting wildlife to gardens, and bees were mentioned. Bought her book, 'A blessing of toads', about such things.

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clipped on: 03.31.2007 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 03.31.2007 at 11:04 am