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RE: It's Friday...includes backsplash pic and countertop... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trailrunner on 11.12.2010 at 04:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey granite -girl ! I would be glad to share the recipe. I have posted it in the past but have refined it a bit so will repost for you and anyone that is interested. If you have any questions please feel free to email through" my page" or ask here. c

This is a double recipe. So you can halve it if you like;

13 c unbleached bread flour
3 1/2 c warm water
1/2 c sugar
1/2 c softened butter or margarine
6 large eggs ( have a 7th yolk only for glazing set aside)
3 tsp Kosher salt or 4 tsp table salt
9 tsp instant dry yeast ( not rapid rise...you can also sub active dry yeast) this = 4 pkgs./ envelopes

Place 13 c of flour into a large bowl . I have 13 qt metal bowls for this purpose. In a large cup measure or bowl place warm 100 degree water and add all of yeast and a large pinch of the sugar. When yeast foams add the rest of sugar, salt, soft butter/margarine, eggs. Beat with a whisk. Pour over all the flour and gently fold all the flour and liquids together just till barely moist. Cover with a towel and leave to autolyse for 30 min. Lightly dust counter top with flour and place dough on top. Knead till soft and pliable ...about 10-12 minutes. May add very light sprinkles of flour to prevent sticking. The dough should hold together and not be dry or wet . Place back in large clean and oiled bowl. Cover with towel or plastic and let rise till double...about 1 or 1 1/2 hrs. Remove from bowl and using a scale divide into 4 large loaves or 6 med. Then make 3 more balls from each of these for braiding. Place shapes loaves on Pam sprayed baking sheets and cover and let rise 1 hr. Do not let it over proof.

Preheat oven on convection bake at 350. Take reserved yolk and blend in a Tbsp or so of 1/2 and 1/2. Brush generously over the loaves and then dust with sesame seeds or poppy seeds. Even if you don't use seeds make sure and glaze the loaves. The keeping quality as well as the fragrance and crust are worth the extra effort. Bake for 30 minutes. Internal temp with digital thermometer is approx 190-200. Cool and enjoy. c

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clipped on: 11.14.2010 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 11.14.2010 at 10:36 am

RE: Uncommon Flooring (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: dainaadele on 10.28.2010 at 07:24 am in Kitchens Forum

It is a bathroom, but I used 2x2 pieces of plywood with screen stock for "grout" and my woodburner for the decorations. Glued down to the ruined/patched original hardwood and 3 coats of oil based poly on top. My version was done as a temporary fix to hold up for maybe 5-10 years until we finish the rest of the house and get back to doing smaller projects. Well, we are at year 5 now and there are no signs of wear year. Ironically it is the favorite feature of most of our guests!

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clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 09:47 am

RE: Uncommon Flooring (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: dainaadele on 10.28.2010 at 03:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks everybody! It has been a source of amusement for us, and yet it was really a slap-dash job. I had no idea what the finished product would be, my goal was something better looking than peel and stick tile. :-0 Okay, here are the long answers for those that want them:

The wood. It was precut 2x2 1/4" plywood bought at our local Menards. The cheap white birch. (Not fine grained, furniture grade birch plywood)It is so soft that it only took a movie on TV to burn with the wood burining kit. It came with the leaf like attatchment that I used. After that I stained it the color I wanted.

When I put the pieces side by side, I found that they were not perfectly square. Duh! I should have realized! So I went back to Menards looking for a solution. They had what they called screen stock for putting over the edge of screen on old screen doors. It was almost exactly the same thickness as the plywood and the edges had a slight curved edge. I noticed that it worked to make a minor shadow effect that hid the irregularities of the 2x2s and so I decided that I could use it as "grout." The cheap birch actually has kind of a thick layer, so I did a very light hand sanding job on the edges of those. So the effect is similar to the bevel that is on engineered prefinished flooring.

Next was panel glue, lots of it on the plywood, I think I used some finish nails on the screen stock. After it all had a chance to dry properly I put 3 thick coats of oil-based poly. The purpose here was to allow the poly to seal every crack. If you think about it, it is now encased in plastic. When water gets on the floor, it never touches the wood itself. Restaurants do this all of the time on their tables. Someday the plywood glue will start to delaminate on its own, and the plywood itself will begin to peel apart, but who knows when that will be? Maybe a long long time, if I am lucky.

The thing to remember with this kind of cheap method, you have to be willing to embrace the imperfections. It is for old house lovers and people who like a little rustic style in their decor. It is not for those that like a perfectly polished floor. The original link had some floors that may actualy be very expensive. To buy high grade furniture plywood, have it trimmed down precisely into exact squares (not easy), have the floor leveled perfectly underneath, etc, etc, etc, could cost a fortune. There is actually a high end aspect to some of those pictures.

I put in a close up of the floor from before I put the poly on:
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Still_lynnski: After having had sucess with this on the large scale, I did try it using smaller squares. 4x4" with the same trim used on a 2x10' window seat base. (1/2" plywood under that as a base) It looks kind of like a wood plaid. I don't have a picture loaded on photobucket of that. I will see if I can get that done later today. It may work as a backsplash using the same prinicple.

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clipped on: 10.29.2010 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 10.29.2010 at 09:45 am

RE: Colorful Mexican Kitchens Part XV111! (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: plllog on 05.08.2010 at 12:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Missy, you're very welcome! The hard part of traditional applique was getting the edges turned neatly. They used to baste over newspaper or other paper, but without being able to stick it to the fabric. Learning to do it nicely took a lot of practice and skill. With an electric iron and freezer paper or Wonder Under the world is ours! The line each pieces version? That's something our foremothers did too! If they had sufficient resources to use extra fabric. What I left off above is press really really well after turning--but you knew that.

With all applique, spray starch is your friend.

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clipped on: 05.21.2010 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2010 at 05:15 pm

RE: Plllog (and others), corner cabinet questions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: plllog on 05.07.2010 at 03:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay, I have art. The utensil drawer is actually in the other stack, across from the rest of these, but there's no particular difference other than lighting.

Beachpea, the thingie is at the end of the drawer glides, and my drawers are too heavy to take out without unloading. Not sure I could get a good picture even if I did that, so please forgive me for the lack of one. The thingie needs to hook into the back of the drawer.

According to the Blum plans (see sketch below), as well as to the redesign which they have in that one picture ("redesign one" below), the place it hooks in is at the end of the wood side. My cabinetmaker's extra long drawer has a notch cut out for the thingie to hook into so the drawer sides can extend all the way to the back.

My theory is that Redesign One is a custom one which looks great in the picture, and Blum Plan version is a way to easily adapt a boughten drawer box to the corner. Redesign One, done correctly, would be full extension, with the back lining up with the cabinet faces when the drawer is open. The extra long drawers, being longer than the glides, don't come all the way out. See how well the dishes fit, though? It's so worth having the extra space. There are only about 4" covered, so it's easy to put a hand in to get whatever.

stack

top

middle

bevel

redesign 1

Below is a loose sketch of the extra long drawers in the cabinet.

sketch

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clipped on: 05.08.2010 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2010 at 12:24 pm

RE: Colorful Mexican Kitchens Part XV111! (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: plllog on 05.07.2010 at 11:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Okay, awake enough to catch up. :)

Steff, those shower thingummies are very interesting looking.

Missy, thanks for posting the links. I have to admit I'm so thick headed that I forget to go looking for your threads. :/

Applique is a great way to use your old, damaged tablecloth on the new curtains. Easy, quickie lining? Cut the face half an inch bigger than it needs to be, and the lining normal size. Sew together as if it were a pillow cover, turn, and carefully press so that the seams are all on the back. Slip stitch the opening to finish. Instant two layer that you can handle as if it were one layer.

Appliqu: Do you know freezer paper? Tape a piece of the cloth to a bright window, pretty side out, and tape a piece of freezer paper paper side toward you over it. Trace the exact shape you want to applique. Cut out the shape from the paper. Put the cloth face side down on your ironing board and carefully position the freezer paper over the shape you're going to cut out. Using the tip of your iron, stick the freezer paper to the fabric in a few dots then make sure it's in just the right place. Reposition if necessary, then use your whole iron to stick it down. Cut out your shape with approximately 1/4" seam allowance, trying not to bend the cloth enough to pop off the freezer paper (much easier to position it right before cutting out). Moving the iron sideways, fold the seam allowances over the edges of the papper and press in place making a hard crease. (Optional unless you have lumps: Clip the corners where you have overlaps, leaving at least a few threads before the fold over the paper. Also optional: Run a basting threads around the shape, trying to run through the layers of fabric in corners and turns, especially through both sides where you've clipped.) Position the shape on your background and tack stitch in place or use a short pin or two that your sewing thread won't get hooked on. Sew down by coming from the back through the crease in your shape, and straight down into the background, making a tiny up and down stitch rather than a long stitch like a whip or hem. Start on a long straight or gentle curve. When you're nearly down stitching you can use your needle or a bodkin to loosen the paper and remove it, and recrease the fold with your thumbnail or iron.

Does that sound like too much? Do the same method as the easy lining! Get some thin fabric that matches the background, put it face to face with your piece of tablecloth, sew most of the way around it, cut out leaving a quarter inch allowance, turn, close, and sew down.

You can also do raw edge applique. Draw around your tablecloth shape on the paper part of paper backed fusible interfacing as above. Draw another line around an eighth of an inch outside the shape and a line about an eighth of an inch inside. So you basically have three cherry shaped rings, for example. Cut out on the outer and inner lines so you have a quarter inch wide donut. Actually, for this version, maybe make the outside ring half an inch wide. Carefully press it so that it's right on the print in the fabric, though it doesn't have to be painfully accurate. Cut out the shape, including the excess interfacing-paper, i.e., cut out the middle line on the paper, but follow the print rather than relying on the line. Peel off the paper backing and iron your shape where you want it to be on your background. Stitch down by machine close to the edge using care and a zipper foot, or use any kind of pretty stitch by hand. This method isn't great for things that will be used heavily enough to fray, but should be fine for a curtain that isn't handled to roughly.

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clipped on: 05.07.2010 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2010 at 12:48 pm

RE: All drawer kitchens - please post photos (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: julie94062 on 04.19.2010 at 11:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have doors under the sink, 2 sets of doors with pullouts on the far side of the island for seldom used/tall stuff, one narrow door where I put my stepladder, one 14" door that has extra shelves inside for horizontal storage of baking dishes. Otherwise, all drawers! Love them! Everything is easily accessible.

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Organizers

Horizontal Storage

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After...

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clipped on: 05.02.2010 at 11:11 pm    last updated on: 05.02.2010 at 11:11 pm

Oakleyok .. pictures of the house that I promised. :)

posted by: zipdee on 02.10.2010 at 09:57 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hey, thanks for being patient with me. Things stay pretty busy around here, we have three DD's .. ages 10, 12 and 14 .. between the three they are currently weekly involved in youth theater, battle of the books club, olympians club, art club, cotillion and tennis ... my husband works out of town during the week .. so everything goes slow here, including decorating. ;)

Our house is a work in progress, we've been renovating it for the last 6 years, usually 1 - 3 big projects a year as we have the time. Decorating, I probably fall more in the eclectic club, rather that strictly vintage .. although I have a lot of vintage pieces in the house, they are mixed with antiques and new as the colors and whims seems right. :) I kind of collect and things get added as I come across them, so really every room in this house is a work in progress and will seem empty by most people. As time and good finds allow, we'll get there though.

I guess starting with the outside of the house, we live in a 1910 Southern Colonial Cottage in central NC. This is an old picture, since here I've replanted the front with Annabelle hydrangeas, crossing my fingers they'll grow across the front with beautiful lime/white blooms.

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Hmmmm .. Here's the central hall. My DH an I just found this antique heart pine pew and refinished it .. I'm looking for a runner and a large piece of art for the opposite wall now.

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Front entry, oops .. yes the curtain is crooked .. I have five dogs that peek out that window, hence the curtain being askew.

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Looking in from the Living room :

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Looking in from the family room .. I'm looking for something to go under my vintage faux bamboo mirror, so any suggestions are welcome.

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Looking back down the hall. The opening to the left is the kitchen, the french doors to the right the master bedroom ( which we are ramping up to start soon, that and the master bath ). The wall of french doors at the end are the eating area and access to the deck.

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Let's see .. the living room, which I'm slowly collecting furniture for. The chairs are vintage, we painted them black and had the cushions done. The coffee table is a 42" dining table we cut down to coffee table height and painted. Next on the agenda in here is to have pillow made to bring the red, black and green together for the sofa. On the look out for lamps, tables, etc .. too.

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Looking the other way :

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And the family room .. this is as far as I've done in here .. lamps are temp, until I can find some table lamps I like.

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I'll put up more pics of the family room, kitchen/eating area and the upstairs in a bit. I need to run some errands and then I'll hunt for the pics ..my album is way unorganized! ;)

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 04:35 pm

Ikea Storage - One Reason I Chose Ikea

posted by: lisaslists2000 on 02.06.2010 at 09:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some pics of my new drawers/pantry. A frying pan and a lid are missing from cooking, and there are a couple of drawer fronts missing from the pantry. I love this new kitchen. Can't wait for countertops and sink! Trailrunner, notice if you read this thread that my cornbread and biscuit cast iron are in the baking drawer!
Lisa

behind the door pantry

behind the door junk

behind the door cooking

behind the door baking

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clipped on: 02.06.2010 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2010 at 09:51 pm

RE: All about Wythe Blue / the properties of color (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: funcolors on 02.02.2010 at 12:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

For instance, should I have gone with a more saturated color, like Wythe in my bedroom due to its poor lighting?

First, I'd wonder if you could do something to improve the lighting situation. I know it's not always feasible to do that tho. Sometimes time and budget only allow for paint.

More saturated, less muted colors are often a good pairing with light that is dim, not robust. If it feels to you that the quality of light is a bit one-dimensional, or flat, or seemingly has a quality to it that just isn't very *full*, then it can be a good idea to add a wall color to the atmosphere that is the opposite of all those things -- like you stated, 'more saturated'. More saturated can help bust thru the dimness or grayed quality of light and deliver more color to the eye.

But you don't want vivid either. :-) You want to try to strike the right balance between the light and the colorfulness or chroma in the paint color.

One popular tip (that I like to dismiss) is to choose a paint chip that you like and then 'go one up'. Supposedly, that tip is meant to help you avoid choosing wall colors that are too dark, too colorful, just too much in general. The 'going one up' tip is meant to address the fact that wall colors grow more intense as they cover more area. This example is a good reason why tips like that don't work. In the case of poor lighting, 'going one up' on the strip probably isn't the best fit because more value, more color is the better partner for poorly lit rooms.

Would a warmer color have been a better choice in a poorly lit room?

Maybe. Maybe not. Since I'm on the topic of tips today, :-D, another one is to align the cool and warm sides of a color wheel with a compass. Meaning the cool side of the color wheel lines up with south and the warm side of the wheel lines up with north. Warm colors are suppose to be the better fit for cool, low light. Cool colors are suppose to go with warm, intense light. Like the other color tip, this north/warm and south/cool color tip has flaws too.

A poorly lit room is still going to be a poorly lit room whether it's painted a warm color or a cool color. What changes with color temperature is mood and *feel* in the space. So if you think a warmer wall color would improve your perception of how your poorly lit room would feel, function, and fit with the other elements in the room then a warmer color would have been the better choice. The flip side to that is someone else might perceive the cooler color with the poor light as restful, calm, serene and maybe even more cohesive with the room's contents.

So, the warmer and cooler thing is really more about aligning color with desired mood, function, expectations, and color tolerance than it is about trying to manage the quality of light into something that it isn't. Because you're not going to be successful managing the quality of light into something it isn't just by painting the walls -- poorly lit is going to stay that way until you buy more lamps or change window treatments, etc.

The subject of paring a dark wall color with poor light is another part of the discussion but not directly relative to you question so I'll skip that and move on.

What accents colors will make my walls appear less gray and either more blue or more green?

That's the easier question of the bunch. Juxtaposing color that is opposite or complementary to blue and green should help coax out from the gray a sense of more blue or green. Complementary colors would be oranges and reds.

If you think about it, Acid green or chartreuse is opposite in a sense too. That kind of vibrant accent color would be opposite the neutralized grayed aspect of Quietude. Opposite and complementary is not exclusive to the level of contrast that is hue, like blue-orange, green-red. Vibrant juxtaposed to dull is a level of color contrast that's available to you to use as well -- and it could very well work to help you feel like some of the grayness of Quietude has been balanced out.

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clipped on: 02.02.2010 at 10:14 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2010 at 10:15 pm

RE: Laundry/Mud Room Eye Candy - please post yours! (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: kimmieb on 03.10.2009 at 11:58 pm in Home Decorating Forum


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clipped on: 01.18.2010 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2010 at 11:49 pm

RE: Pharaoh, please give me tips on applying Waterlox (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: pharaoh on 12.04.2009 at 12:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is how I have waterloxed all of my projects (floors, cabs, etc)

1. Sand the wood to bare. Making sure it is smooth (not wavy). I go up to 220 grit sandpaper.
2. Vacuum the dust. Wipe it clean
3. Then I let the dust in the garage air settle before applying the first cost of waterlox sealer
4. I use a sponge brush (can buy them cheaply at harbor freight)
5. I apply on one surface first. I apply very thin coats. No wiping
6. Wait 24 hrs.
7. Repeat on the other side and all the edge
8. wait 24 hrs.
9. Now i sand everything down with 320 grit sandpaper. very lightly to even out any bumps, insects, dust etc
10. Wipe it clean
11. Now apply the second coat.
12. Repeat the process 4-5 times. If you are going for a matte finish, make only the last coat of matte. all other coats are gloss.
13. Then bring the piece inside the house and install!

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clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 07:49 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 07:49 pm

My Cabinet Touchup Process for Minor Nicks and Flaws

posted by: lmalm53 on 11.19.2008 at 04:34 am in Kitchens Forum

I was asked by nomorebluekitchen to write up something about my process for touching up my old cabinets and to include some before and after pictures. Let me preface this by saying emphatically that I am NOT a refinisher and really have just been using trial and error to find something that works on minor nicks and water damage on the cabinet finish. In fact I would still like to know if there isn't some kind of final finish or wax that I should be applying to help keep my touchups protected from future moisture. But at least the touchups I did almost 6 months ago still look like new.

Please be aware that I have used this process only on natural solid wood cabinets that have been stained, not painted. This may not work on laminate surfaces or composite woods. If anyone out there has more experience with this type of repair, please add your input also. This is the process I used.

First off, my 19 year old dark cherry cabinets were in need of a good cleaning. I have read some negative posts about using any kind of oil soap on cabinets, but I have had no problems using Murphy's Oil soap for cleaning up greasy spots. I just dilute a small amount of the soap in a pail of warm water and using a soft microfiber cloth I clean up the cabinets. If I have any tough dried on gunk, I gently clean it off using a piece of 0000 fine steel wool.

After drying with a soft cloth I then like to put a little Orange Glo furniture cleaner and polish on a clean white cloth and further clean and polish up the wood finish. At this point I carefully inspect for signs of wear, worn finish or nicks in the wood. You will be surprised how much you thought was damage turns out to have just been dirt or specks that easily clean off. Be sure to open up all the drawers and cabinet doors where there is often damage to the finish just inside the doors. I use my Minwax Stain Marker pen which matches my cabinet color perfectly. (I use 225 red mahogany)

Using the stain pen I just start filling in the damaged spots. Sort of like filling in the lines in a coloring book. :) I apply the stain generously, wipe up any excess with a paper towel and then let it sit for awhile. You could probably let it sit for a few hours or overnight, but I get impatient and tend to move from one cabinet to another with the cleanup and touchup process then work back to the first cabinet again to check the stain and see if I need to apply a little more.

Once I am satisfied that I have done my best touching up any damage, I then like to get another clean soft microfiber cloth to buff up the cabinet faces. Some of the stain will come off on your cloth, but in most cases the areas of damaged finish will have absorbed enough stain to improve the cosmetic look greatly. If you need to reapply some stain in especially large damaged areas, I would let the stain sit longer before you buff it out.

Now this is where I am probably missing a step, because it seems logically there should be some kind of finish coat or preservative put on the cabinets to keep them protected. But I have not added anything yet after buffing out the stain. Since most of my cabinet finish was in good shape I couldn't see the need to apply any all over sealer, but I guess a real refinisher would use something to seal the damaged areas. I am hoping my stain doesn't all come off the next time I deep clean the cabinets!

So...buyer beware!... but I was asked to explain how I do it so this is it. Here are some pics if it helps to see the types of damage that can be greatly improved without going to a lot of expense and trouble.

Here are the touchup supplies I use:
CABINET TOUCHUP SUPPLIES

STEEL WOOL

STAIN PEN

And here are some before and after pictures:

Small Cabinet Drawer Face Before Touchup
CABINET DRAWER BEFORE RETOUCH

After Touchup
CABINET DRAWER AFTER RETOUCH

Cabinet Center Panel Before Touchup
CABINET BEFORE TOUCHUP

After Touchup of Center Panel only
CABINET CENTER PANEL AFTER TOUCHUP

Whole Cabinet after Hardware Removed and Before Touchup
19 YEAR OLD CHERRY CABS BEFORE CLEANUP

After Touchup and New Hardware installed
19 YEAR OLD CHERRY CABS AFTER CLEANUP

I will say that there are some types of damage that this process cannot repair. I have yet to figure out what I will do with my laundry room cabinet that has had so much water damage that the finish has turned a milky white in places. I suspect in that case I may need to strip the old finish down to the raw wood, restain and reseal completely. That will be a project I will tackle after I have done some more research!

But for now here is my updated kitchen. I saved a lot by keeping the 19 year old cabinets and by touching them up myself, instead of having them professionally refaced or refinished. Only time will tell how long my process holds up, but at this point I feel it was worth it! Most of my guests think the cabinets are brand new.
KITCHEN AT NIGHT

Hope this is helpful to someone. I am sure there are others who can improve on my methods, so please add your comments.

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clipped on: 11.04.2009 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2009 at 10:06 pm