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RE: care for curry leaf plant (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: aaaaaaaa on 06.23.2009 at 08:11 am in Asian Vegetables Forum

Hi,
It is really sad to see any plant being that infested. See if this helps.
1. There is a post "Murraya koenigii blooms!" ---gives how to apply neem oil to the plant.
2. If possible try to clean the affected area with warm water and a disposable plastic cutlery knife. Then do the neem treatment if you are opting for that.
3. If it has affected small area, branches�I would recommend you cut that portion off.
4. Although this is not in the right order�I would also recommend changing the soil and the container completely�that is if this plant is in the container. If it is in the ground, dig about 1 to 2 feet deep around the plant and may have to fill in new garden soil along with the pest treatment. Even roots may have been affected resulting in black leaves�this is my guess�although I am not a professional.
5. When plant is being treated see to it the plant is in the shade for at least a week then may move it to your desired place. Preferably not in the same location as it was originally placed. Also treat the original place that is now empty -- just so these ants do not spread to other plants/walls etc.
During treatment give the plant enough water.

I could not just see the pics and stay without responding. Other members may pitch in and may suggest better approach.

Thanks
Anna

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clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 04:22 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 04:22 pm

getting started growing mushrooms

posted by: markcase1964 on 12.22.2008 at 07:12 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

I want to grow some mushrooms at home. I was trying to search the strings but did not find any concrete advice. Does anyone have "starts" that they can trade? If you buy one of the kits I saw mixed results.

Thanks for the information.

Mark

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clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 12:34 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 12:34 pm

Shiitake Mushroom Growing

posted by: ethnobotany on 07.24.2011 at 10:00 pm in Moss, Ferns & Cryptogams Forum

Hello all! Lately I have been wanting to expand my horizons a bit from the old vegetable and herb growing. Despite having became a hydroponic gardener for fun, I am starting to get a little bored and would like to start mushroom culture. I have seen kits online for different types of mushrooms and they run about $25 to purchase before shipping. Being a college student I really would like to make my own "kit" if it would save me money and so that I can learn more about the actual growing process rather than just add water if you know what I mean....

So I have a few questions.

1. Can it truly be cheaper to grow my own mushrooms rather than purchase a kit?

2. What materials will I need to grow shiitake mushrooms for my first run?

3. How do I start these mushrooms (can I use shiitake bought at the store as "mycelium" or is that just absurd?)

4. Any good websites I can check out for help?

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clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 12:33 pm

Show pics of the best homemade or purchased tomato cages.

posted by: juntawillow on 04.25.2011 at 05:32 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Looking for a new solution for our tomato cages. Can anyone post pics (or a good description) of tomato cages that 'work' well? Thanks in advance!

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clipped on: 07.13.2013 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2013 at 12:37 pm

RE: How to Keep Birds from Blueberries (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: steve_in_los_osos on 05.25.2011 at 01:28 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

robj: regarding the methyl anthranilate, the cheapest way to get some is to buy unsweetened grape Kool-Aid. Four packages to one gallon of water. Thoroughly wet plants. Depending on rain or heavy dew, reapply as needed.

I got this info from some university site which I have forgotten. I tried it, but I can't say I had a very good test. Three sets of mockingbirds nested in the privacy hedges that close in my backyard and everything in the yard has been under tremendous pressure to feed the two hatchlings in each nest!!! Can't wait till the little buggers fledge and go away :-)

Anyway, the Kool-Aid is cheap (or "cheep", in my case) and you can gauge the effects without going after the pure chemical and then wondering how you will get rid of the excess.

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clipped on: 04.21.2013 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 04.21.2013 at 12:13 am

Tart plum tree suggestions for Zone 5

posted by: nobueno on 02.17.2013 at 09:02 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Live in Boulder, CO so zone 5. Looking for a plum tree that has sweet fruit but very tart skin. Mostly for eating out of hand. Seems like most that fit the description are Japanese plums though which might not be hardy in Colorado. Santa Rosa fits the bill but don't think it would be hardy here (would it?). Is the italian tart at all? Help. Thanks!

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clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 02:41 pm

RE: Alpine Strawberry Seeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mwellik on 08.11.2008 at 02:23 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

I grow and sell alpine strawberry seeds. They can be tough at times to germinate. They will germinate at higher temperatures if the seed is good. I've had them germinate when temperatures are in the 80's and higher. The problem at higher temperatures is to keep them moist. If they dry out, they die - and quickly. At higher temperatures I usually get germination in 6-9 days. At lower temperature (in the 50's) it takes about two weeks but can take a month or more.

I wouldn't suggest using peat pellets. I personally had a couple of disasters this past spring with them as did several of my customers. I believe the problem is that they dry out too quickly. Myself and customers also had problems with sponge type materials so I don't recommend them either.

Another key in germination of alpine strawberry seeds is that they need light. I've had germination without light but my experience and the literature shows that light is a big help.

If you are in a warm zone, then I would suggest germinating them now. If you are in a colder area and have a greenhouse or protected area, again, go ahead now. If you don't have a greenhouse or protection and are in zone 7 or lower, wait until January, December at the earliest. These seeds take 4 months from seed to seed - meaning that 4 months after you seed them they will produce their first fruit - of course, this is the ideal.

Seeds of any strawberry sown immediately after saving it will usually give good germination. Older seeds do need to be kept at 40 degrees F or less for at least 3-4 weeks to break dormancy. I actually freeze them for 4 weeks. But, you can usually get by with this only once so don't freeze or chill all until you are ready to sow.

A dome over the flat or capillary watering works great for alpines. Once a good share have germinated take off the cover and remove from capillary matting to avoid seedling diseases. Keep them moist, but not soggy wet. A little air circulation during the seedling stage with an ocillating fan also helps with the disease situation and helps them to more naturally dry out. This also helps with fungus gnat problems which can also become severe with soil that doesn't dry out.

Hope that helps. Good luck. Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: Alpine Strawberries

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clipped on: 01.07.2013 at 06:51 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2013 at 06:52 pm