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RE: At what temps. do you worry about the safety of potted roses? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: michaelg on 11.06.2014 at 09:58 am in Roses Forum

Respectfully, let me correct what I think is a misconception. Concrete is a pretty good conductor of heat. This makes it feel cold to the human touch if it is much below human body temperature. However, this cold-feeling slab might be at 30-50 degrees, which is actually warm to a rose plant in winter.

In zone 7, the deep soil stays at around 55 degrees the year around. Some of this ground heat is constantly leaking upward through the winter to replace heat that is being lost from the topsoil. So the topsoil, even if frozen, will stay much warmer than the air gets on a particularly cold morning. An insulting mulch will help retain the ground heat in the garden soil.

But if you mulch under a pot, you are separating the pot bottom from the ground heat. Pots should be set on bare soil, pavement, or a slab to give them access to the ground heat.

So if snow falls at 30 degrees, it melts off the pavement because of ground heat transmitted through the paving or heat retained from yesterday. However, it doesn't melt off the mulch because the top surface of the mulch is insulated from the ground heat and will cool down to whatever the air temperature is. We've all observed that happening.

The reason potted plants are vulnerable to winter is the large surface exposed to cold air and the limited contact with ground heat. Put them on the ground or pavement in a sheltered place and insulate over and around, but not under them.

As Hoov suggests, sinking pots in the earth is a good strategy for smaller pots, 1-2 gallons.


clipped on: 11.06.2014 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2014 at 07:27 pm

RE: Lady of Shalott (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: Dinglehopp3r on 10.06.2014 at 09:28 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

For me the growth habit has been very similar to Golden Celebration, they can get very long octopus arms very quickly, but will not mind if you cut them back frequently. They form new basal canes regularly but sometimes need encouragement (trimming, shaping, pegging, etc) to have more lateral growth. She seems like she could get very large if you let her. She could very easily be trained to be a short to medium climber... Again I have only had my 2 Ladies for one year, but in that one year they went from bare root plants to around 5-6 feet tall & maybe 4-5 feet wide.

The blooms are very similar to Lady Emma Hamilton in color, but they have a different shape, the petals are smaller and there are more of them, at least compared to my 1 year old LEH. The growth habit is not similar to LEH at all, my LEH has stayed very compact, and produces much shorter canes with plenty of laterals that give her a rounded look.

They are both incredible roses, I go back and forth as to which one is my favorite. I probably like the shape of LEH's blooms a little better, and her scent is much stronger, but LOS far outperforms LEH in terms of vigorous growth & quick re-bloom, so I think she wins based on that.



clipped on: 10.10.2014 at 03:56 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2014 at 03:57 pm

RE: Alfalfa tea? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 09.17.2014 at 04:51 am in Roses Forum

I've purchased organic alfalfa meal from FEDCO this year. I'm very happy with that. I've used the pellets in the past, but I prefer the meal. I don't mix alfalfa tea, I just scratch in the appropriate amount of alfalfa meal around the base of the rose, away from the trunk and out to the drip line. Then I cover that with bark mulch and water. I do it once in early spring and then again after the first flush of bloom.

This year, I can really see a big difference with that second application. My Julia Child rose right now looks wonderful. New growth, healthy foliage and a good amount of roses for this time of year.


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 10:22 pm

RE: image of RRD damage vs. Round Up damage (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buford on 09.21.2014 at 08:31 am in Roses Forum

From what I've experienced, RU damage shows stunted growth, wispy like leaves not usually red. RRD shows very aggressive growth, rubbery like canes, distorted buds. Also, as you have noticed, the RRD growth is larger than the cane it comes from.

Here is a picture of a 'no doubt' RRD:

Here is one I found early, removed the cane, and still have the rose:

Here is one I had this year. The middle cane is normal, the one's on either side have RRD:

Here is a picture of what I believe is RU damage. I know I used some near this rose. I still have the rose, and it's never shown any RRD type symptoms. There was one cane, towards the front that has very wispy leaves:

I have seen some pictures of RU damage that can look more like RRD, but I haven't seen it in my yard.


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:50 pm

RE: Is this rose a goner? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: anntn6b on 09.21.2014 at 10:51 am in Roses Forum

RRD, even though the colors are the 'typical' reds.

On the blooms on the last photos, there is the (to me) classic lack of receptacle below the petals and sepals. They just aren't there.

The really short internodal distances between leaves are also a major symptom

If you follow those canes downward, are they much thicker than the cane they emerge from?


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:45 pm

RE: Is this rose a goner? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: msjam2 on 09.21.2014 at 08:54 am in Roses Forum

Here's a close up. The flower color is weird too.


clipped on: 09.21.2014 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2014 at 09:44 pm

RE: Cornelia new growth possible RRD (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: anntn6b on 09.04.2014 at 11:28 pm in Roses Forum

That WAR looks bad to me; it's almost a duplicate of when my Peter Beales version of Parks Yellow Tea Scented China which got sick and then got much sicker faster than any other rose I've seen. I really hate that both sides of your stem broke; the upper side should always be the one to put out lateral growth, the undersides generally don't. Also I really don't like that the new growth is circular (as in one side is growing faster than the other.) If WAR were mine, that cane, all of that cane, would be gone tomorrow. And I'd watch where it was pruned off like a hawk.

On Cornelia, compare the time that reddish growth takes to turn green with any other new growth on that rose. The margins look a little too smooth (which is ok), and the stipules aren't exuberant. I don't like the discoloration on the leaves, but given sunlight, they should normal up.



clipped on: 09.05.2014 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2014 at 07:46 pm

RE: Please help!! Is this rose rosette?!? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: anntn6b on 07.09.2014 at 07:48 pm in Roses Forum

Holly's first picture is really interesting. Look at the bud in the background on the right, and how short its sepals are. Then compare with the 'overgrown' ones on the left.

I think her bush is ok, but I hope she'll watch it closely for a couple of years and hopefully not see any of the stuff below:

In my part of the country there are a lot of KOs with both healthy and sickening growth. The sickening growth is much more severe that Holly's rose. Right now, Holly's blooms are just a bit overgrown.

Now, things to watch for after that almost one symptom:
Leaves on those canes a different shade of green than the leaves on the small sepaled canes.
Different timing of bloom on the two different canes (RRD happens faster).
Different colored petals on the blooms -RRD has a different color than normal KOs.
Canes that put out so much new growth of the un-good kind that the cane bends downward, sometimes touching the ground, other times the timing of the overloaded cane is so fast, that the blooms almost look like a candelabra.
Blooms that start missing sexual parts (recepticles).
Blooms that look like everything is going to be great, and then none open.
And when sicker, blooms that are so massed that they remind me of a southern (white) magnolia cone.
Then there are the canes were one side is sicker than the other and the canes grow in spirals.

As I said, symptoms vary, and when things start going wrong, they go really wrong.

I wish that somewhere, some KOs would show up that can resist the infection or minimize it. I know that there are proposals to do genetic modifications. But with the number of KOs out there, maybe some genes have found their own way?


clipped on: 07.09.2014 at 08:37 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2014 at 08:37 pm

RE: What is your most prolific Blooming David Austin? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: Dinglehopp3r on 07.02.2014 at 02:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Narrowing down a list of beauties like these is very difficult, I pondered for a while about whether I should go with lady Emma or lady of shalott & eventually decided I needed both & I am so glad I did, they are probably my two favorite roses, I am a sucker for that apricot blended with yellow color. The main differences are: LOS blooms much more, with smaller flowers than LEH, but the coloring on those flowers is absolutely exquisite & there is a lovely soft fragrance, overall she seems like a vigorous grower. LEH still blooms regularly, just not as quickly as LOS, the blooms are larger, somewhat pinker, with beautiful, large petals, & there is a much stronger fragrance than LOS. Neither has shown any signs of disease yet. You really can't make a wrong choice, I also have heard nothing but great things about Tamora, lots of fragrant, beautiful blooms, foms a nice, round shrub....she is on my short list for next year.



clipped on: 07.03.2014 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2014 at 09:14 pm

RE: What is your most prolific Blooming David Austin? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: Dinglehopp3r on 07.01.2014 at 11:49 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I have a Lady of Shalott that I planted as a bare root this spring & once it started blooming it hasn't stopped it continually produces an abundance of flowers, also I have a Darcy Bussell that I purchased as a 3.75 gal container from my local nursery this spring, planted in a huge pot on my porch, and even with only a few hours of morning sun, it still always has a flower or three on it. My Golden Celebration, also purchased as a 3.75G container, also planted in ground this spring has done an awful lot of growing (maybe due in part to the cornmeal I sprinkled on it for the BS it was suffering from- it has since declined quite nicely) and shooting up long canes like crazy, it is almost taller than me at this point & I'm 5'6", most of those long canes flowered fairly nicely, but they often ended up awkwardly in the center of the shrub, because of the dramatic growth spurts. Lady Emma and Munstead Wood have had some nice flushes, but not as continuous as the above mentioned roses.



clipped on: 07.03.2014 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2014 at 09:12 pm

RE: Koko Loco? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Nippstress on 06.18.2014 at 02:16 pm in Roses Forum

For color matches, Lynn, what I'd suggest is putting a few equally mutable roses and some that anchor the lavender and the russet, then plenty of white roses and filler (like alyssum) at the base to set off the unique colors. Other mutable roses that would pick up a similar color scheme might be Lavender Pinocchio or Nimbus or Macho Man or Cinco de Mayo (mine right now is a lovely russet blend). Then you could work in more stable lavenders like Poseidon or Neptune, and more stable russets like Beautiful Anne or Brown Velvet.

The other alternative that has worked for me is to stabilize my whole lavender bed with apricots and creams. I find that any of my "lavenders" can tend from grey to hot pink, and the apricots and creams tie them all together. In fact, I like the look of a true apricot (like Carding Mill or Anne Henderson) against these mutable roses, since it complements the lavender part well (being the opposite side of the color wheel) and echoes the russet part.

Just my two cents - try bringing that lovely photo to contrast against your apricots!



clipped on: 06.20.2014 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2014 at 08:13 pm

RE: Pruning Question for vigorous rambler (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: anntn6b on 06.10.2014 at 03:30 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Multiflora has a tendency to put out laterals all along an upper surface. Sometimes it's one vigorous one; other times it's all along the upper surface of the cane. Anytime that cane reaches too far down, the lower parts of that cane will die (it's a xylem/phloem thing).

Cutting a multiflora kin down close will keep the bush stunted and for some gardens that's a necessity. Otherwise, that first suggestion doesn't make sense.

Dead wood on multifloras is usually because of a lack of delivery of nutrients caused by a change in cane orientation.
Diseased wood........I don't think I've ever seen mutliflora with canker or creeping black crud or any pear like disease
Weak wood on multifloras will result from their being overgrown by younger more aggressive growth and it's on the underside. Sometimes they'll hang on, but ...the bloom won't be what it used to be.


clipped on: 06.10.2014 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2014 at 08:57 pm

RE: Nitrogen (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: michaelg on 05.27.2014 at 03:50 pm in Roses Forum

Michelle--rugosas are notorious for going chartreuse in neutral or alkaline soil. Apply 1/2 cup of plain sulfur per square yard, under the mulch. Repeat in fall. By next spring the pH should have dropped some. Sulfur is slow acting but has a long-lasting effect. Micronized sulfur works fastest, but you can use whatever is in the store.


clipped on: 05.27.2014 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2014 at 08:26 pm

How to cut old-style roses

posted by: michaelg on 05.21.2014 at 11:17 am in Antique Roses Forum

I've often read things like, "'Heritage' is a nice rose in the garden, but it shatters immediately after being cut." Well, last night I retired a cut 'Heritage' that was fine for 4 whole days, 96 hours. That's in plain water with no special treatment.

It's counter-intuitive, but, in most cases, very double roses with short central petals will open faster and more easily than hybrid teas with a lot of long petals. This means the cupped and rosette types should be cut at an earlier stage.

Try cutting as soon as the sepals have dropped, if you cut in the early morning. Or, if you cut in the evening, cut when the sepals have dropped and outer petals have loosened just slightly. (Roses do most of their opening around mid-morning.) Naturally, this rule of thumb won't apply to every variety, so try with one bud at first and adjust if it doesn't open. Extra-fat buds may need some extra time as well.

Single and semi-double roses are best cut before the sepals have dropped, when the sepals are splitting and showing some petal between.

By cutting earlier, you can expect to get at least three days in the vase with most OGR and Austin roses.


clipped on: 05.22.2014 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2014 at 12:54 pm

RE: Where to plant my Golden Celebration? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: vasue on 05.05.2014 at 12:27 pm in Roses Forum

Golden Celebration landed in the center of a garden bed along my front porch. Lucky inspiration, since I'd no idea at the time it would grow so tall. Might think "center" rather than "front & center", as it naturally grows long arching canes that can cover a lot of territory if left to its own devices. Mine blooms abundantly in rich golden yellow blended tones, only showing plain yellow when the temps pass the mid-90's here. Noted no difference in coloration nor duration of flowers along the branches that receive 2 more hours of full sun than sister canes shaded earlier in the afternoon. It's in an ESE exposure, with 8-10 hours of sun before the roof shadow casts shade. I do keep it well watered in that location.

That part of the porch bed is 15' deep by 20' long. If left unsupported, GC would cover most of it! Set a square copper pipe obelisk around it, the kind with upper reverse curves topped by a wooden ball. Very pleased with the fountain effect it gives, and with the rose itself. Another rose grows centered in front of GC toward the walkway edge - floribunda Easy Does It. That rose blooms here in colorways I've not seen in the usual photos, an everchanging blend of the golden yellows that echo GC's, along with corals, paler pinks & apricots shaded with cream. Both roses bloom generously & continuously despite my lazy no-spray ways in high humidity central Virginia, with simple organic fertilization & light deadheading by snapping off the spent blooms. Golden Celebration blooms like a floribunda, in sprays, and the blossoms are similar in size here. Really liking this combo, thought I'd pass it along.

The link is to another thread discussing GC you may find interesting. If you mention your location, you may receive info more targeted to your vicinity from others nearby, since zone 7 climate conditions vary considerably in different regions, apart from low temperature norms. You can also use the search box at the top right of each Gardenweb page to turn up many more threads about others' experiences with this rose. Here's hoping Golden Celebration charms & delights you as it's enchanted me!

Here is a link that might be useful: Does Golden Celebration need support?

This post was edited by vasue on Mon, May 5, 14 at 14:06


clipped on: 05.05.2014 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2014 at 04:56 pm

RE: Reine des Violette.... Going to toss it!!?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseseek on 04.10.2014 at 05:05 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Brilliant sun, high heat and alkalinity all serve to make RdV hot pink instead of the violet tones you wanted. Been there, done it numerous times, both in my own gardens as well as commercially and for clients. The rose is better suited for cooler, damper, foggier, more acidic environments. Not that it won't grow and flower elsewhere, but the 'blue' you want isn't nearly as easy to obtain in our type of environments than it is where the rose is better suited. Keep or toss, but if you want the purple colors, get ready to recreate your environment to get them.

What's worked every time I've done it is to plant the bush in soil heavily amended to be acidic, as you might for camellias, azaleas or gardenias; give it filtered morning sun; acidify your water and keep it very well watered. Ultimately, it simply wasn't worth the effort. While you CAN grow "penguins in the desert", it eventually just isn't worth it. Kim


clipped on: 04.16.2014 at 07:35 am    last updated on: 04.16.2014 at 07:35 am

RE: Reine des Violette.... Going to toss it!!?? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: nikthegreek on 04.12.2014 at 12:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Ha ha Lynn! Aspirin can kill you if you take too many... What if I told you that concetrated suphuric and nitric acids are used by farmers in fertigation systems. It's all a matter of dilution. One tbsp of vinegar in the gallon every once in a while will help and will not harm your plants and will help any that appear chlorotic. Lots of people are using vinegar to acidify the water as a matter of routine when watering plants like azaleas and the like. It's no good if one uses it constantly (due to other things vinegar contains rather than the acetic acid in it) but at the rate of once or twice a month it's totally ok.


clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 08:50 pm

RE: Reine des Violette.... Going to toss it!!?? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: nikthegreek on 04.13.2014 at 01:55 am in Antique Roses Forum

Lynn, any vinegar will do as long as it is less than 10% acetic acid, just to be on the safe side. I have used wine vinegar just because it is the one most available and cheap over here. I suppose so called 'distilled vinegar', which is a misnomer since it is not distiled but it is made out of distilled alcohol, would be best since it has no other ingredients apart from water and acetic acid. The dilution rate I have suggested is just an indicative starting point. People who take this seriously use some kind of pH testing means (pH colored strips are the most reliable imo unless one is colour blind ) and test for the pH of the solution to be around 5-6 i.e. similar to rain water. One can use any other acidifying agent (acid) at an appropriate rate of dilution to bring the pH down to this range. Organic acids like acetic and citric undergo quick breakdown in the soil so their effect is not long lasting. Sulfuric, nitric and phosphoric acids are used in the farming industry. There are also ready made products available (one such is called 'pH Down' in the States) which usually contain phosphoric acid at a dilution rate safe for amateur handling and they are often used in hydroponics (usually in amateur home cultivation of 'recreational' plants....).


clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 08:49 pm

RE: Reine des Violette.... Going to toss it!!?? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: nikthegreek on 04.12.2014 at 12:00 am in Antique Roses Forum

Potting it up will make it easy for you to provide the more acidic substrata Kim is recommending. MIxing a bit of vinegar in the water once or twice monthly during the watering season will make sure the soil will remain so for long.

This post was edited by nikthegreek on Sat, Apr 12, 14 at 0:40


clipped on: 04.15.2014 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2014 at 08:47 pm

Charles Rennie Mackintosh

posted by: desertgarden561 on 04.13.2014 at 11:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I have read many not so great comments about Charles Rennie Mackintosh, but ordered it anyway because I am a sucker for pink/lilac roses.

While it hasn't been perfect, it has a little P.M., it is new. I am extremely pleased with the rate of growth, repeat and the coloring of this rose.

Our gardens can be so different, and sometimes we have to take a chance. With that being communicated, I only purchased two CRM:)

Sorry for the blurred image as it was a bit of a blustery day.


This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Sun, Apr 13, 14 at 23:43


clipped on: 04.14.2014 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2014 at 08:20 pm

RE: Coffee Grounds and soil (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: michaelg on 08.06.2013 at 10:56 am in Roses Forum

There is no problem with applying used coffee grounds at the soil surface, two or three cups at a time. It will cause the earthworm population to explode, just as alfalfa does. Six or eight cups of used coffee grounds provides enough nitrogen and phosphate for a season. The potassium is lost in the brew, but many garden soils have adequate potassium already.

Acidity is not the issue, rather caffeine is. Most of the caffeine is lost in the brew. In sufficient amounts, caffeine is toxic to plants, so be careful about applying unused grounds. Obviously, moist, unused grounds are most effective as a slug repellent because caffeine is what repels them.


clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 06:32 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 06:32 pm

RE: best repeating bourbon (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: annabeth on 04.07.2014 at 02:15 am in Antique Roses Forum

I have Mme Isaac Pereire, Mme Pierre Oger, Variegata di Bologna, Zephirine Drouhin and Mme Louise Odier.

For me the winner of these for best repeater is Mme Louise Odier. Although for spring flush, Variegata di Bologna beats her, but hasn't repeated much for me. I keep hoping she will.



clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 06:14 pm

RE: best repeating bourbon (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 04.07.2014 at 02:05 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hands down, SdlM is the best-blooming rose in my garden, not only the best Bourbon. Romaggi Plot Bourbon has improved every year, and Kronprinzessin Viktoria and Mme. Cornelissen are also quite good, but neither is as good a bush as SdlM, and Romaggi Plot Bourbon is much smaller, as is Mme. Dore.



clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 06:14 pm

RE: help pruning big girl bourbons and HPs (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rosefolly on 03.22.2014 at 11:32 am in Antique Roses Forum

And I know someone else who thinks that Deuil de Dr. Reynaud is the same rose as Madame Isaac. I'm thinking myself that a lot of these big fragrant bourbons resemble each other like siblings in a family with dominant genes. I went to high school with identical twins, and their non-twin sisters looked almost as much like them as the two of them looked like each other.

Of the roses you list I grow only Dr Reynaud, which I like very much. It gets mid-to-late season PM and rust here but blooms magnificently in the fall after most roses have shut down. Wonderfully fragrant, too. It's a keeper here despite the disease. There are a rare few roses that are so stunningly gorgeous that I keep them anyway, despite any little foibles. This is one. I have experimented with self pegging (way too much work) but ended up growing it as a free standing shrub. It wants a lot of real estate but I grow lots of nice perennials at its feet, and cut it back sharply in the late fall when that final flush winds down.



clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 12:08 pm

RE: Souvenir de la malmaison (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: Sow_what on 03.29.2014 at 06:35 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Boncrow, I'm excited for you AND with you; awaiting arrival of some of the same roses for a new garden at Humpty Dumpty House. I'm wishing you many blooms!

Carol, thanks for the suggestion; I've not used Lonicera, and am always thrilled to try a new plant. I'm very happy with the dark burgundy, salmon, palest pink color scheme for this particular garden -- deeply romantic, yet playful. I just hope the roses cooperate. How did your Tradescants do? And is your SdlM a very pale pink? I have Alnwick newly planted (bare root) in the garden, and have my fingers crossed that it's a more saturated pink than SdlM.

harryshoe, thanks for sharing your lovely photo.



clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Souvenir de la malmaison (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: texaslynn on 03.28.2014 at 09:30 am in Antique Roses Forum

I live northwest of Houston and have had several SDLM's for about 5 years now. This is one of my very favorite roses. The blooms are beautiful and the bushes (incredibly) stay bushy and full, which is an important criteria in my yard. I keep mine around 4 feet tall simply by using hedge shears in the spring and it's good about maintaining that bushy form.

It isn't prone to defoliating with BS although it will get a small amount when it is particularly humid. It's not particularly noticeable even when it drops some leaves because there is so much foliage.

Mine is planted in a bed with Reine de Violette, Blueberry Hill, a few Angel Face's and a random Distant Drum.

Highly recommended!


clipped on: 03.30.2014 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 03.30.2014 at 11:52 am

RE: Pruning established roses (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: campanula on 03.17.2014 at 09:49 am in Antique Roses Forum

By and large, growth follows the knife so, counter-intuitively, you need to cut more to encourage more vigorous growth...but because this is a balancing act seeing how the rose needs top photo-synthesising growth too, it is usual to cut back by a third and sometimes up to half of top growth. What and where you cut depends, to some extent, on the type of rose. A multiflora rambler, for example, benefits from taking out a third of canes, right back to the base, after flowering in June/July.....whereas a climbing hybrid Tea such as Etoile de Hollande tends to throw a gangly framework and long laterals - there is a continuous changeover of old laterals being cut out and newer ones tied in place, cutting out die-back and waiting till spring.
Sammy, I would get armoured up and dive into the centre of the rose (grovel about underneath, most likely), taking out the oldest third (or anything really gnarly), canes, back to a few inches above the crown - you might only need to remove 1 or 2 which have had laterals on top of laterals getting twiggier by the season. Lots of water and a nice slow-release fertiliser and Bob's your Uncle - job done.


clipped on: 03.21.2014 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2014 at 02:06 pm

RE: da climbers (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: alameda on 03.18.2014 at 01:48 pm in Roses Forum

My Golden Cel has languished the last few years, but since I dumped a load of my composted horse manure on it, it is looking much better. I looked at it yesterday - and was pleased. Going to put some Carl Pool BR 61 on it too, as well as alfalfa, Epsom salts and Mills Magic Rose Mix. Our soil is just now starting to warm up so things should start picking up.

A climber you REALLY should get is Crepuscule. Gorgeous peach ice cream blooms, it is fabulous - I do believe it is my very favorite climber. Blooms are small but cover the plant. You wont be sorry you got this one. I also love the color of Pink Don Juan. You probably wont see much bloom at Chamblees, but I bought this one in the fall and have seen them bloom there.

Aloha is another good one. I have an old one that is upright and just blooms all the time. Like it so much I bought another when I was there last week.

Another, that I saw blooming its head off a year ago in Chamblees "back 40" test garden is Pinata - its an old one, but was huge and blooming like mad in the middle of the heat. They don't spray or water anything back there - test the roses to see what does well and boy, did Pinata deliver! I got one last year and its doing well.

Oh and how could I forget Dublin Bay?? It is red - I have 2 of them and they are just wonderful! Reliable bloom, a wonderful climber.

I don't have it but have seen Fourth of July in bloom and it is gorgeous and have heard good things about it.

Jacobs Robe is a pretty thing in bloom but I haven't tried it. If you need a white, Climbing Iceberg is good.

I have Lady Ashe [actually Dixieland Linda] and got this a long time ago. I was just pruning off old dead blooms from last year this morning - strong healthy climber, blooms lots, shiny disease free leaves. I used to grow Seminole Wind, very pretty color, but lost it due to my chickens scratching around the base of it. Plan to replace it one of these days. Am also going to get a Westerland the next time I go [forgot to get that this time around].

Don't limit yourself just to Austins - there are other really good climbers in addition to Austins - I adore Austin roses, just ordered 6 and am getting them in the ground this afternoon! Be forewarned - you are going to be overwhelmed with the choices. Want always overrides need when I go to Chamblees - I just figure, life is short, eat dessert first so I load the truck will have a great time! And do post what you get!!



clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 11:25 pm

RE: OT rose suggestions for fountain with hedge (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: vasue on 03.15.2014 at 03:01 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We've enjoyed a similar fountain for 35 years, bought new when it was a huge splurge. Great points about the varying shadows it casts & reducing the flow. There's a reducer clamp fitting for the tubing that adjusts with a screw. We've run it with a Little Giant pump, replaced periodically over the years when we forget to detach or protect it over Winter. Found the pump rated next powerful for height & volume than necessary lasts longer. Learned to encase the electrical plug with those clear snap-on weather protectors & jury-rigged the pump housing the same way so we don't have to remove it during the cold when we stop it from running.

Water freezing solid in the basins can spall or crack the concrete. Still have one of those coated vinyl fountain protectors that slips over the whole thing & cinches closed at the base. Getting lazy of late, found that if we let leaves accumulate in the basins, even when the water freezes it hasn't affected the concrete (yet). Low was 1 degree this season without damage. We do use a nontoxic fountain sealer every 10 years or so to make the concrete less porous, and scrub it out with a birdbath brush when we start it up again in Spring.

To even out the flow from basin to basin, also use a nontox clear outdoor silicone that comes in a tube meant for pond waterfalls. Applied at the ends of the drip grooves where needed, it's invisible under the water & helps tune the music of the drips. The hardest trick is getting the whole fountain leveled & tuned whenever I get the urge to move it - not often!

Little of this relates to your question, but hope it may be helpful. No spray from the fountain itself when adjusted, just kicks up sometimes from high winds. Since those are usually accompanied by rain here, not problematic. Branches of roses nearby clear the largest shell basin by 3' so don't whip against it in winds or when birds land on them before hopping over. Two tall roses frame mine on diagonal to the fountain placed at the back of a mixed perennial bed which slopes up a foot at the side of a walkway. The base of the supporting column is ringed by dark green moss that grows naturally here in shade & sun, relocated to that area. Other plants start low & feathery to flow down that broad slope past the rose high points & reach a mid-height billow at the far ends. There's a 2' square bluestone flag set on diamond as a path to the center of the fountain, which children & I use to reach into the fountain & also allows access for filling & maintenance.

Your fountain & design plans for surrounding it are charming. Sure it will delight you for many years to come!


clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 11:06 pm

RE: OT Salvia and Roses (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: rosefolly on 03.11.2014 at 12:11 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Not OT at all, in my opinion. Salvias look lovely with old roses and they fill in with color at times you may not be getting much from your roses.

Actually salvias vary in their water requirements. Some are very drought tolerant, while others are quite happy with average water. While they like a well drained soil, the group of perennial salvias from Germany sometimes described in catalogs as "x sylvestris" and sometimes as "nemerosa" are all quite happy to get the same water as your roses do. These would include 'May Night', 'Blue Hills', 'East Friesland' and 'Rose Queen' among some others. I saw a couple of new ones at the Sangerhausen plant sale last year, and they were quite lovely. I'm looking forward to the day they make their way across to us here in America.

Other salvias would either be unhappy to get that much water (Salvia clevelandii comes to mind) or would turn into a rapacious thug (Salvia spathacea, the hummingbird sage). Come to think of it, hummingbird sage, lovely though it is, would be a thug under almost any circumstances short of true desert. Might be good to cover a steep bank, but I will not again let it into my garden.

If you are interested in sages, you will want to get your hands on an excellent book called The New Book of Salvias: Sages for Every Garden by Betsy Clebsch.



clipped on: 03.11.2014 at 05:53 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2014 at 05:53 pm

RE: OT Salvia and Roses (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ArbutusOmnedo on 03.11.2014 at 04:06 am in Antique Roses Forum

The clevlandii and leucophylla salvias here are far enough from roses that they receive a noticeable difference in irrigation, but they both are visible in the same scene. Guaranitica is next to a rose, but it's a bit more water loving than most other salvias I've tried. It looks great! Salvia Spathacea is relatively close to some shrub roses and it looks great. Gregiis and Microphyllas have done well in more drought tolerant patches of the front's mixed border. Cecile Brunner is currently there and either Mutabilis or Lady Hillingdon will be in this area in the near future. Cecile hasn't skipped a beat there despite a little less water than the roses in dedicated rose beds.

I'm in the land of no winter though, so tenderness isn't much of an issue. We're able to comfortably grow Fuchsia Thymifolia in the ground here which is fairly tropical and very tender from what I understand. I assume experiences will vary with certain species and cultivars. I saw a white Farinacea at a nursery recently that I bet would look great with mauve or red roses.

Lavendula multifida stays pretty compact and never looks like it has wet feet mingling with roses. It too is fairly tender from what I've read.

Although totally off topic, thinking of Fuchsia Thymifolia reminds me of my ongoing search for a Deppea Splendens in person. Anyone else a fan of "cloud forest" plants from Central America?



clipped on: 03.11.2014 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 03.11.2014 at 11:42 am

RE: Irresponsible Nursery Practices - A Rant (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: JoshTx on 01.30.2014 at 10:34 pm in Antique Roses Forum


We actually have really high humidity, especially during the summer. I would definitely check out:

Souv D'Elise Vardon (Long Ago)
Souv. De Francois Goulain
Cramoisi Supeurieur (ARE - love this one)
Louis Phillipe
Souv. Mme. Leonie de Viennot
Champney's Pink Cluster
Pink Pet
Milkmaid (clean even as a young band)
Frederic II de Prusse (clean even as a young band)

Just for starters! Your summers may be slightly milder than ours, and your winters a smidge colder. I can't definitely say how these will perform for you, but they've been excellent for me!



clipped on: 01.31.2014 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 01.31.2014 at 09:35 am

RE: Spacing of hybrin tea roses? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: on 01.26.2014 at 03:23 pm in Roses Forum

Ideally, you would want to give 6' between each HT from the center of each bush.. This gives good air circulation and you can get around each bush without too many canes growing into each other. On the other hand, I'll take 2 or 3 HT's and plant them 12" apart in a triangle. This makes a BIG, full bush that caries a lot of blooms. Or I'll plant them on 3' centers in rows so I can have more bush's. Just my 2 cents.


clipped on: 01.27.2014 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2014 at 01:44 pm

RE: Info about Mrs. Herbert Stevens climber (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: titian1 on 01.24.2014 at 01:19 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Nik,

I guess Sydney is somewhat similar in climate, except that we get very heavy dumps of rain from time to time.
I have Cornelia, Penelope and Felicia.
Cornelia did very well as a result of a leaking sewer pipe (went on for months as there was no smell, weirdly!). No mildew, no disease of any sort, and sweet racemes of little pinky/apricot flowers that are supposed to be highly fragrant, but of v little smell to me - even now the sewer line has been fixed!
Felicia is shrubby (unlike C which sends out long canes), has a delicious scent, but for me the blooms look raggedy within hours (minutes?) of opening, but the scent makes her worthwhile. And she flowers continuously from Spring to Autumn
Penelope sends out long canes, but they are much less flexible that Cornelia. I love the blooms. They are quite large and occur in heads the size of footballs (nearly), and start off a pale apricot fading to white. They look fragile and stunning to my eye. I'm not dead-heading every bunch this summer, as I've read that the orange hips look great against the autumn blooms.
I also have Buff Beauty. It sends out long canes too, and is on it's 3rd or 4th repeat since Spring. Not many blooms at a time but they are beautiful, although hang so low I have to pick them up to look at them. But it is only in its 3rd year, and as I have the disease you've classified as American, of moving roses, it has been re-homed once, and also severely pruned to get to the sewer line.


clipped on: 01.24.2014 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2014 at 03:17 pm

RE: Osmocote (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mike_rivers on 05.24.2011 at 12:04 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Some more thoughts:

150 roses - whew! I have 50 and that's about all I can handle - course I am pushing 70.

My fertilizer schedule for the year starts and ends on two days in early Spring, shortly after pruning. I pull back the mulch to clear a 1 ft circle around the rose, sprinkle with Osmocote (one with iron and other minors), sprinkle over that with 1 cup of alfalfa pellets, then sprinkle everything with water for maybe a minute per rose to wet down the alfalfa. On the second day, the alfalfa pellets have absorbed the water and turned to a fluffy substance which, together with the Osmocote, I work into the 1 ft circle of soil using mostly my hands, and that's pretty much it for the year. I do repeat the alfalfa treatment maybe a month or two later with some of the roses and, of course, there's always some fooling around with whatever magic fish oil or whatnot strikes my fancy.


clipped on: 01.22.2014 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2014 at 01:14 pm

RE: Osmocote & soil temperature (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 02.06.2011 at 01:35 pm in Roses Forum

I also live in Marin County, and the high temp here in San Rafael yesterday was 79 degrees, and this morning when I first went outside at 8:30 it was already 70 degrees, and obviously heading for hotter! We don't haver air conditioning, so I ran around our old Victorian house closing all of the shades & windows, which is my summer "house stay cool" regimen. I don't know how many days of this it takes to warm up the soil, but I figure it isn't getting any colder!

I use Osmocote also. I am lazy, so what I do is weed around the roses, prune the roses (repeat bloomers, that is) in Feb (when they are already leafing out and/or starting to bloom), feed with Maxsea (liquid), throw Osmocote (you can actually get a 8-9 month version on line in larger bags, which saves $) on the soil, and cover it (WITHOUT scratching it in) with at least 2 inches of mulch or compost, and then watering.

That's it - that's all they get until Fall, except of course for additional water in our dry summer. (Of course, we haven't had any rain for 6 weeks, and it is hot NOW, so today I am going to have to water all of the pots, and if this keeps up another few days, we will have to turn on the irrigation system!)



clipped on: 01.22.2014 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2014 at 01:11 pm

RE: Need a rose that won't clash with Mutabilis (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 03.10.2013 at 10:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here are a few pictures of Mutabilis and other roses, taken in different years. I don't have a good single picture that shows all the roses I have now in bloom but I hope these shots convey some idea of the color scheme.



clipped on: 01.21.2014 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 01.21.2014 at 11:06 am

RE: Help! How do I trim (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: subk3 on 01.17.2014 at 01:00 pm in Roses Forum

"The large cane that is "Y" shaped(going left) do I take off the two side sm. canes. "

I would. I've found that identifiying a main cane then being adamant that anything that comes off of it is a lateral and dealing with it as such works for me.

I would also take off the main cane that is coming forward away from the support just to tidy the plant up.

If you haven't seen Paul Zimmerman's prunning/training climbers videos on YouTube take a few minutes and do so. Even though I've seen them multiple times I watch them before I tackle my New Dawns since they inspire so much confidence to go forth with sharp prunners! ;-)


clipped on: 01.18.2014 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 01.18.2014 at 11:33 am

RE: Winter Sowing in Flats (ran out of milk jugs) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lgslgs on 12.03.2013 at 01:55 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I used trays of 2.5 inch pots and also gallon nursery pots. More details in the linked photos.

Gotta watch moisture levels. in the smaller pots, ProMix worked way better than MiracleGrow (which didn't retain moisture as well). My carrying trays for the pots all had good drainage, and the I had the over bags clipped in a way that let moisture get in but kept it in once it got there. Still had to water a bit during dry times (like when we'd get those weird dry heat waves in the middle of winter!)

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter sowing in nursery pots


clipped on: 01.12.2014 at 07:02 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2014 at 07:02 pm

RE: Feeding Program for Hybrid Teas (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: wirosarian on 01.12.2014 at 06:16 pm in Roses Forum

I make my own organic mix, much cheaper than buying Epsoma when you have 125-30 roses to feed.

These first 4 items come in 50# bags. Alfalfa & soy are $10-12/ bag & blood & fish are around $40-55/ bag in my area.

2 bags alfalfa meal
1 bag soy bean meal (can use cotton seed meal instead if available)
1 bag blood meal
1 bag fish meal

Mix the above 4 ingredients with 2 bags of Milorganite (36# ???---buy from a garden center). You will need 3-4 20gal. garbage cans to store it in. Makes enough to give 5 feedings to my roses. 2C/HT & big roses, 1C/Fl & smaller roses, 1/2C per mini


clipped on: 01.12.2014 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2014 at 06:48 pm

RE: Feeding Program for Hybrid Teas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: on 01.12.2014 at 10:55 am in Roses Forum

Mid March or a little later I prune (it depends on the long range forecast). When I prune I put down 1 cup per bush 10-10-10 and wash it in with fish emulsion, 2 Tbs per 2 gal watering can. 1 watering can per bush. Then one big handful of 10-10-10 every 21 days until June. Then nothing June July and first half of August. Then fall pruning about the 15th of Aug. One big handful of 10-10-10. 21 days later same 10-10-10 and fish emulsion, then 21 days later 10-10-10 for the last time for the season. I use this on all my large roses. Cut in half for my mini's and anything in pots. I exhibit and this seems to work fantastic for me and the roses.


clipped on: 01.12.2014 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2014 at 06:47 pm

RE: What is your best and most beloved reblooming old-fashioned r (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: Tessiess on 12.30.2012 at 12:01 am in Antique Roses Forum

Baronne Prevost. She produces loads of fragrant, many -petalled flowers for much of the year, lives in partial shade, produces hips for birds to eat in the winter, gets no fertilizer, requires no pruning, and thrives in dry summer heat with no supplemental water. She's healthy to boot! To me this is is wonderful low-maintenance rose.



clipped on: 12.18.2013 at 09:41 am    last updated on: 12.18.2013 at 09:42 am

RE: Your favorite hybrid musk (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: Nippstress on 12.15.2013 at 07:26 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lynette, that New Face is absolutely GORGEOUS. I'm so glad you're sharing the cuttings and I'll be in line to buy it when it's available!

I agree with Odinthor that Wilhelm is my favorite hybrid musk, and I grow about 15 different HMs. Wilhelm is never out of bloom, and it makes a dramatic dark statement in my partial shade area where most of the other hybrid musks and shade tolerant roses are much lighter shades. Here's a closeup from spring just getting started, with Felicia at his feet .

Wilhelm June 2013 photo WilhelmGd-1.jpg

My second favorite is one I got from Cliff's mother plant sale, and it has been a nonstop bloomer - Petite de Terre Franche. I don't hear about it in other places, and I suspect it's not widely for sale, but it spills beautifully around the shade bed and has a graceful effect all summer. Here it is (white one at center) with Heavenly Pink at its feet, Cornelia to its left, Darlow's Enigma at the back left, and Wilhelm making his statement in back to the right. Hybrid Musks are perfect for my kind of "rose chaos".

Shade Center June 2013 photo ShadeLBedGoodJune2013.jpg

I'd pick Felicia for most beautiful individual bloom among the hybrid musks, but Kate said we had to stop at two (smile).



clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 09:28 am

RE: Any comments regarding these roses? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: trospero on 12.15.2013 at 11:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

Top notch roses: 'Konigen von Danemark', 'Botzaris' and 'Belle Amour'. These three are exceptional cultivars and should be grown in every collection, IMO. Special emphasis on the first two, but I love 'Belle Amour' for its unique and intense Myrrh scent.

Sold and grown mainly because of its name and associated romantic notions: 'Empress Josephine'. I could live without this one; almost no fragrance, weedy, disorganized growth habit, blooms turn bad in wet weather, and a bloom style I regard as unsophisticated (muddled, disorganized petal configuration.)


clipped on: 12.17.2013 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 12.17.2013 at 09:14 am

RE: Roses that are off the Radar...less Popular (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: jaspermplants on 12.16.2013 at 05:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lynn, I bought Mme Dore at the recommendation of Ingrid on this forum (thanks Ingrid!). I was looking for a small bourbon and Mme Dore fits the bill. I've had her a year now and she got through my horrible summer fine. She didn't bloom in the summer, but I don't expect my roses to do that. She's in bloom now. I'm terrible with the camera or I'd post a picture. She is a great rose, love her.

I really like bourbons and most I've planted have done well here. I don't know why she's not better known, but then I feel that way about many OGR's, especially teas.


clipped on: 12.16.2013 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2013 at 06:26 pm

RE: Showcase your Warm Pinks (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: Nippstress on 12.14.2013 at 04:18 am in Roses Forum

That Chelsea Brittlyn is a new one to me Seil - is a new variety or just not widely discussed? It deserves to be highlighted, as does your Strawberry Romance. Where did you get yours? I had a mother plant from Eurodesert when it closed, but it didn't make it through our winter.

To me, Floral Fairy Tale is a warm pink

Floral Fairy Tale June 2013 photo FloralFairyTaleBloomJune20132.jpg

Among my warm pinks, I'd count Rosenstadt Friesing, though it's listed as more of an apricot, and it fades to a cream blush.

Rosenstadt Freising June 2013 photo RosenstadtFreisingsprayJun2013.jpg

Jack's Wish is also a saturated warm pink to my eye.

Jack's Wish spray good June 2013 photo JacksWishGdSprayJun2013.jpg

Lorise is a blush warm pink with darker coral pink outer petals

Lorise Bloom 2 June 2013 photo LoriseBloom2June2013.jpg

Even though Pillow Talk is on the mauve-russet side, it seems like a warm pink mauve rather than the blue tones.

Pillow Talk June 2013 photo PillowTalkJune2013.jpg

Sonia Rykiel also tends toward the warm pink side

Sonia Rykiel Bloom June 2013 photo SoniaRykielBloomJune2013.jpg

I think the warm pinks of Dame des Chenonceau at the foreground and the apricot-pink of Polka climbing at the left back dominate the effect of this shot, even though Edgar Degas has cooler pink stripes at the center and Earth Song is cool pink at the right rear. Between all the creams and warm pinks, I find this one soothing.

Far Back R Pinks June 2013 photo FarBackPinks.jpg



clipped on: 12.14.2013 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2013 at 05:03 pm

RE: Favorite HT/Grandiflora? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 12.03.2013 at 01:02 pm in Roses Forum

The only HTs (that is, non-climbing) I have in my garden are old ones that are family heirlooms, planted by my DH's grandfather and rescued by me 30+ years later from deep shade where they were not blooming. We moved them into very large pots on the patio, where they can get sun and I can deal with the rust they get occasionally. Here are my favorite three and why:

Duet (Swim, 1960) - Just finally identified this one. A picture is attached because you all know what Peace and Sutter's Gold look like. I love it because it was the only one of our rescued old HTs that was still putting out a few blooms in the gloom, and it has lovely ruffled petals with an almost silver reverse.

Sutter's Gold - gorgeous blooms, and the scent is strong old rose, and amazing in a yellow rose.

Peace, of course. Our old one had climbed up into a pomegranate thicket to get some light. It started dying from the top, but had just put out 2 new basil breaks. I was able to rescue one of them before the entire bush died, and rooted it, and it is now in a one gallon pot waiting to be planted. We figure the original bush was planted in the late 1940s, and the blooms on it were huge and gorgeous, so I am hoping it is a good old cultivar - so glad I get to keep it. I am looking forward to finding out if it has really turned into a climber or not.

Of course, I also have two favorite old climbing HTs - Crimson Glory and Madame Caroline Testout.



clipped on: 12.04.2013 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2013 at 04:35 pm

RE: Rooting Cuttings - What now? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: hartwood on 11.20.2013 at 07:14 am in Antique Roses Forum

Congrats on getting the baggie method to work!

I begin to harden off my cuttings when I see decent roots on the side of the container (in my case, a milk jug) and, ideally, when the cutting has broken bud and is beginning to produce leaves ... though this last part may or may not apply to all cuttings. We have to be flexible.

The idea is to gradually acclimate your cuttings to the conditions outside of their warm, humid bag. Start by opening the bag a little, then a bit more, then a bit more, with days in between each change. Soon, you will have the bag completely open ... then you can repot your cuttings and treat them like the cute baby roses that they most certainly are.


clipped on: 11.20.2013 at 09:19 am    last updated on: 11.20.2013 at 09:19 am

RE: Schonste (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: campanula on 11.12.2013 at 11:39 am in Antique Roses Forum

keep the greenest canes on Zephirine and cut all those laterals back to a bud (or about 3 inches from the main canes). Aim to keep a good half dozen basals, bend 3 on each side in opposing directions and cut out all old gnarly canes. Easy-peasy.


clipped on: 11.12.2013 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2013 at 03:48 pm

RE: Pruning Golden Showers, Don Juan, Zepherin Drouhin & Mr. Linc (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dublinbay on 11.08.2013 at 10:31 am in Roses Forum

The pruning should be done in early, early spring, and NOT in the fall or early winter. If you are pruning fall and spring, that definitely is too much pruning.

I'm not sure what you are pruning for, so it is hard to give suggestions. You don't need to prune just for the sake of pruning. Here are some reasons I prune in my zone 6 garden in Kansas:

1. Prune out brown and dead wood.
2. Prune to cut off winter/freeze damage--I do a test cut near the end of the cane. If the center (pith) is a bright white, there is no winter damage and I do no more cutting back. If the center (pith) is "off" (kinda tannish), I go down the cane about 4-6 inches and cut again. If the pith is still not bright white, I go down another 4-6 inches and cut again--and so forth, until I reach bright white pith. This kind of pruning is usually limited to hybrid teas which, sometimes being a bit iffy temperature wise, suffer more from winter cold. The hybrid teas sometimes have to be pruned back nearly to the ground before good pith is available. (Check the hardiness number on your new roses--make sure they are winter-hardy for your zone.) Assuming most of your roses are hardy enough for zone 6, you won't need to do this kind of pruning for most of them.
3. Prune to control height--cut back at most by 1/3. But it is rare that height is a problem here, so I rarely prune just to control height. At most I may give the rose a very light "haircut" overall--a couple inches at most.
4. Occasionally I prune a bit for shape--a branch is jutting out too much, making the rose look lop-sided, so I trim back that branch a bit. I don't usually need to do much of this kind of pruning.
5. If a branch got broken off as a result of the winter winds, I make a smooth, neat cut immediately below the breakage. This rarely happens also.
6. With climbers, I avoid cutting back the long canes. Instead trim back the "laterals" growing off the long canes--make them about 6 inches long. It is those laterals that will probably produce the next set of blooms.
7. Occasionally a rose gets much too crowded in the center, so I thin it out. This rarely happens, however.
8. Prune to rejuvenate an older shrub. Cut out at ground level 1 or 2 old canes (they will often look grey and barklike). Do that each year for several years. New canes should be produced each year, and in about 3 years, you will have a "new" and "younger" rose bush.

Right off hand, those are the major reasons I can think of for pruning. And note that most of them are only occasionally needed. The only ones I regularly do every early spring are numbers 1 and 2: deadwood, and freeze damage.

Hope that helps.



clipped on: 11.11.2013 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2013 at 08:25 pm

RE: Climber Suggestions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: AquaEyes on 11.07.2013 at 01:20 pm in Roses Forum

Mine hasn't bloomed yet, instead focusing on growing (it came as an own-root band this past Spring), but I'd recommend giving 'Orfeo' a try if you want a fragrant red climber. I got mine from Rogue Valley Roses. Since mine hasn't bloomed, the pics I have of it will show only the growth it has achieved in the just-over six months I've had it.



Arrived April 25, 2013....repotted into 2-gal container
 photo 935640_10151406676177285_1264082304_n.jpg

June 13, 2013....
 photo 6297_10151480830632285_1421076922_n.jpg

July 3, 2013
 photo 1002287_10151515892387285_969837585_n.jpg

August 10, 2013 -- just planted, its two main canes trained to "hug" the trunk and eventually meet on the other side.
 photo 993674_10151581510462285_1612779528_n.jpg

August 25, 2013...'Orfeo' on the trunk:
 photo 1238192_10151608175872285_84285882_n.jpg

 photo 1150406_10151608176342285_1836515752_n.jpg

 photo 1175725_10151608176552285_979731698_n.jpg

Some time in September....laterals further tied against the trunk
 photo 1385483_10151684377292285_94810374_n.jpg

 photo 1186340_10151684377297285_571325784_n.jpg

A few weeks ago, after mulching all the beds. You can't see 'Orfeo' very well here, but it gives perspective on where it fits in relation to the rest of the bed. It's wrapped on the scalped Callery pear, with most of the new growth facing the deck (so next year's flowers can be seen from there).

 photo 1382967_10151706668757285_231086445_n.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: 'Orfeo' at HelpMeFind


clipped on: 11.09.2013 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2013 at 07:49 pm

RE: Companion plants that weave (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: Holycowgirl on 11.07.2013 at 01:19 am in Antique Roses Forum

This was fascinating to read, what lovely thinking. I've got weavers and had no idea. The greatest success was accidental.
My garden's separated from a glorious meadow by a flatboard rail fence and gate. At the gate, on the meadow side is a massive, old Cecile Bruner, about 15 feet wide and 8-10 feet high. In the 2 years I've been here I've cleared out the abandoned under-mess of tangled deadwood, up about 3 feet from the ground. It responded, easily doubled in size and pink rose production! This summer it started sending out huge, long tendrils in sky bound arches. I organized them into bowers, supported by dead branches I found here and there, tall enough to walk under. Then kept intertwining. There are now three bowers leading into the meadow, which the Cecile Bruner seems to enjoy, producing new shoots and blossoms. I wasn't sure.
Each bower gets thicker and thicker, I keep weaving. On the garden inside of the fence, new very long tendrils were shooting out high and perpendicular to the fence. So I started weaving them, supported by (and supporting) 6 foot dead tree limb just barely pushed into the ground, and reaching across to the staircase that goes to the upstairs, about an 8 foot stretch.
But here's the real weave of companion plants. Unbeknownst to me, a healthy nasturtium had migrated to a pot below the tree limb supporting the new bower. Strong orange flowers began to appear as it rose up, around, and through the Cecile Bruner. Incredible! Sunlight passing through the now giant nasturtium leaves and orange flowers next to the delicate pink roses are just a delight and a half. Along the fence just past the Cecile Bruner is an old cherry tree with a massive Bird of Paradise at its base. I didn't plant either, just got lucky. And have been spending most of the first year plus cleaning out the mess at the base of everything here from so much neglect and everything's doubling in size.
It took me a while to get to the point, but just to was incredibly easy, I keep the bowers getting fat, help the nasturtium find its way...and wow.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Hawks Perch - Expressionist Art


clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 09:39 am

RE: When do I bloom? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mad_gallica on 11.05.2013 at 03:02 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Well, first off is the Chinese yellows. They bloom with the lilacs and the mid-season daffodils.

Next is the spinossisimas. Things like Double Blush Burnet, William's Yellow, and Mary, Queen of Scots.

The last of those is Harison's Yellow, which blooms with the rugosas. These are the earliest roses that are commonly grown, so a lot of people mistakenly think this is the start of the rose season.

Then the main season starts. Gallicas, Albas, Mosses, Damasks, HTs and floribundas.

Multiflora ramblers and polyanthas are a bit later.

Last are the Setigera ramblers. Summer heat can end the main season bloomers, but the setigeras don't care. By the time they have ended, it's been about 3 months of once bloomers.


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RE: Mason jar-rose propagation (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: seil on 11.05.2013 at 09:02 am in Roses Forum

Roses store energy in their canes. What you're seeing is the rose using that energy to produce new top growth even though there are no roots. This happens often when trying to root cuttings. It doesn't mean they won't still root for you though. If the canes are still green all the way down to the soil line just leave them alone and wait.

Under a mason jars and with 80 degree temps I wouldn't put them in full sun. The glass jar magnifies the sun and heat and they will cook inside the jar, Since they're not drying out or turning black they're still doing well so leave them where they are. Rooting is about patience. Some roses will root in just 3 weeks but others may take as long as 6 to 8 weeks to root. If the leaves shrivel and/or the canes blacken then they've died and they won't root.


clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 12:06 pm

RE: Roses to go with Marie van Houtte? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: luxrosa on 11.02.2013 at 06:02 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I love the roses you grow in your garden and grow many of them.
I'd plant peach and cream 'Perle d'Or' and pale yellow 'Etoille de Lyon'
near Marie Van Houtte'.
Or the bright pink H.P. 'Ulrich Brunner fils' which has a long bloom season and is one of the last roses to bloom in Autumn, along with the Old Garden Teas, here near San Francisco, California The bright pink is almost vivid, but never vulgar and would blend in nicely with the edges of M. V. H.. I would put it beside Etoille de Lyon, and leave out Perle d'Or'

Best wishes in finding a great rose,


clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 06:49 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 06:49 pm

RE: What complements Souvenir de la Malmaison (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: AquaEyes on 10.31.2013 at 01:20 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Veronica, Salvia, Delphinium -- think contrasting form (vertical spires) and contrasting color (dark purple/blue), and they'll set each other off beautifully. Another idea is something lower-growing with dark foliage, like some kind of Heuchera or Sedum. And one more avenue would be a dark-red-flowered Dianthus, perhaps 'Sooty'.




clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 01:18 pm

RE: Good Companion for Julia Child (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nanadoll on 10.28.2013 at 02:58 pm in Roses Forum

Finally, here is Ascot to the left of the Julia which is left of the sidewalk. Diane


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RE: Good Companion for Julia Child (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nanadoll on 10.28.2013 at 02:47 pm in Roses Forum

My two Julias grow next to the sidewalk which leads to our front porch. They are on a slope. Behind the Julias are two Ebb Tide roses, while the right side Julia is flanked by a Twilight Zone rose, the left side Julia is flanked by the large wine red Ascot rose. What I like most are the two small yellow Bernstein-Rose plants placed ahead of the Julias, lower on the slope--they look a bit like the offspring of the larger Julias and are wonderful roses. All the rose plantings are set off by numerous perennials, with an emphasis on yellows, purples, and wine colored plants. Here's a peek at Twilight Zone with Julia left of it and next to the sidewalk. I'll show Bernstein-Rose in the next photo. Diane


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RE: Unusual and fun colored climbers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 10.29.2013 at 04:34 pm in Roses Forum

'Rosarium Uetersen' is a traffic stopper, often a brilliant coral with vermillion and purple reflections. At times it can be salmon pink or a more normal medium red or deep pink, the last being its official color class. All the color variations are vivid and saturated. Looks great with blue and purple companions. It bears great numbers of large fragrant flowers in clusters the size of a volleyball. Mature plants repeat well. It is heat tolerant and resists blackspot in some gardens. It doesn't make true climbing shoots, but sets flowers at the end of temporarily flexible shoots averaging 6'. However, it will cover a good-sized support. I maintain mine at 10' x 10'. Downside, very thorny.


clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 01:29 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 01:29 pm

RE: Quest for a good lavender (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: lesmc on 08.23.2012 at 12:58 pm in Roses Forum

I am in love with my English Perfume from R U. It has been a bloom machine with plenty of full lavender blooms. Just a suggestion to check on! lesley


clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 07:18 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 07:18 pm

RE: Your best single rose (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: anntn6b on 10.25.2013 at 10:06 am in Roses Forum

For reds, the single red sold under a number of names, Miss Lowe's Red China is the one I have, repeat blooms well, has a vibrant red color and can handle hot summers and my winters (so it can handle your north Texas winter).
The single red Hybrid Tea Vesuvius is now hard to find but wonderful nonetheless.

This won't help you at all, but some other people might want to try R. bracteata, which is an invasive pest in parts of Texas, but a wonderful no-invasive rose in my gardens. Totally healthy foliage with the purest white blooms ever and repeats all through the year.


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RE: Lady Hillingdon Question (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: titian1 on 10.23.2013 at 05:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Thought a photo would help, though it doesn't really do it justice.


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RE: Lady Hillingdon Question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: titian1 on 10.23.2013 at 05:09 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I'm surprised to hear LH doesn't do well in a hot climate, as it is highly recommended in Australia, but I've never grown it. Have you thought of Crepescule? I much prefer to see it grown as a shrub rose, rather than a climber. It makes a large weeping shrub, definitely wider than it is tall, and the new reddish growth combined with the older green growth gives it a tapestry effect. Plus which it is hardly ever not in flower.


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RE: Dolly Parton, Lady Like, Buxom Beauty (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: pat_bamaZ7 on 10.22.2013 at 03:57 pm in Roses Forum

Dolly is the only one of those I grow. She was one of my first roses and still a favorite. She's a great performer here, but I'm a long way from you. Her scent is fabulous (even better than her parents, Fragrant Cloud and Oklahoma, in my opinion); she blooms almost non-stop here; has very long cutting stems; blooms are HUGE and long lasting; and she’s VERY heat tolerant. I would say her faults are that she isn’t the prettiest of bushes, you have to deadhead hard to get a bloom that you can reach or otherwise they are mostly at the top of tall canes (around 7 ft tall here) and she will blackspot some if not sprayed (not bad, though, and mostly on lower and inside leaves). I tried growing her in a pot once years ago, but she didn’t seem to like that…I’m not very good at growing much of anything in a pot, so that could have been me and not her. I’ve always heard she sulks in cloudy, rainy weather and requires hot days and warm nights to bloom well. However, our spring and early summer this year were the wettest and coolest I can remember. Dolly bloomed her head off through all of that…there was no sulking from her…so maybe that’s not true?

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clipped on: 10.23.2013 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 10.23.2013 at 12:58 pm

RE: Training Climbing Roses - Help with Laterals? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dublinbay on 06.05.2013 at 09:14 am in Roses Forum

It's up to you to decide. If you want a thicker fuller look, yes, start bending some of your laterals so that they form laterals. Or trim the laterals back to about 6 inches or so---or a combination of both.

Love to see some photos of its next blooming.



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RE: Bed Partner for Tamora (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: nanadoll on 10.22.2013 at 09:23 pm in Antique Roses Forum

The third rose is Abbaye De Cluny, tallest and with a lovely trumpet shape to its growth habit. Other roses in the line are farther away from Tamora; they are Morden Sunrise and Eglantyne.


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RE: Pat Austin in a pot (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: daisyincrete on 10.16.2013 at 08:14 am in Antique Roses Forum

may 2013 087

Here is my Pat Austin in a pot.
The pot is tall and slim. 75cm high by 50cm across.
Pat Austin hates the hot sun, so from about June to September, she has a large sunshade.

may 2013 088

She is happy in a pot, but likes a bit more feeding during the growing season.

may 2013 091

She smells absolutely delicious.


clipped on: 10.17.2013 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 10.17.2013 at 11:47 am

RE: Fragrant, no spray & disease resistant roses (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 10.12.2013 at 02:56 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Hi Seaweed: I'm too busy with my kid for rose shows. I grow roses for fragrance alone. I'm very pleased with the health & scents of these roses: Crown Princess Magareta (orange), Mirandy hybrid tea (dark red), Mary Magdalene (white), and Stephen big Purple (below mauve).

Jeffcat mentioned that Mirandy hybrid tea was the best-smelling rose among the thousands at Columbus Rose Park, Ohio. Below pic. was taken Oct 11. Roses from upper left moving across and downward are: Mirandy, Versigny, William Shakespeare 2000, Crown Princess Magareta, Sonia Rykiel, Pat Austin, Pink Peace, Bolero, Stephen Big Purple, Angel Face, and Mary Magdalene.

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Mon, Oct 14, 13 at 11:11


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RE: growth habits of Rugosas (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: catsrose on 10.14.2013 at 07:59 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I love Fimbriata, who is tall and fountains, doesn't sucker and smells soft and downy and clean. And Frau Dagmar for small. And Roseraie de l"Hay, Dart's Dash, Will Alderman, the species red&white...I really like Rugosas. The ones I have had bad luck with are Hunter, Marie Bugnet, Jens Munk--but it may be where I've put them. I like Blanc Double, but she balls and gets slimy brown when wet.

Michael is right about sand. I have dug a very deep hole, put a few inches of gravel on the bottom, then sandy&gravel, then sand&soil, the sandy soil . That works pretty well because the feeder roots will often shoot off to the side, but the main root doesn't sit in a puddle. But its a lot of work and mostly I am too lazy--and then pay for my laziness when we get a rainy season.


clipped on: 10.15.2013 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 10.15.2013 at 10:01 am

RE: growth habits of Rugosas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: catsrose on 10.13.2013 at 10:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I grow lots of Rugosas in a similar environment to yours, Susan. Almost all are upright, tho they can flip about some when they are top heavy. I grow Scabrosa; it does well enough, tho Magnifica is better. Sir Thomas Lipton is glorious, if you want a tall, fountaining white.

But one bit of caution. I've had a terrible problem with dieback from root rot this year because of all the rain. My clay soil just does not drain well enough. The bigger plants/deeper roots are worse off than the smaller ones. This is the first time I've had any problems whatsoever with my rugosas--they've even survived the RRD that plowed thru here a few years ago. So give them a deep hole with lots of sand. Rugosas are originally from the northern coasts of China and Japan, which is why they do so well in New England and the Maritimes. And they did well for me in Santa Fe. But they don't like wet clay!


clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 07:30 pm

RE: MAJOR pruning on Reve d'Or, Cornelia, Madame Alfred Carriere (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buford on 04.06.2012 at 12:55 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I was forced to prune my RdO 2 years ago when the arbor it was on blew down in a storm. For climbers, I don't cut back the length of canes, I take out canes. I would take it down to 3-4 main canes and the remove any extra long secondary canes off of those main canes. The rose will respond with a lot of new growth. For basals, I think what I've noticed works best is direct sunlight on the base. I get most of my new basals in the spring because the roses are bare and the sun hits the base (I have full southern exposure in the front and in the winter, it can be very strong).


clipped on: 10.11.2013 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2013 at 07:58 pm

RE: Big teas and chinas (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: luxrosa on 10.10.2013 at 09:32 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I've grown or cared for dozens of different Tea rose cultivars and although I can detect smell in Tea roses, there are very few I would describe as being very fragrant, and that in the best of conditions.
These are they:
'Etoile de Lyon' described as having a "delicious scent" by one author. Its' scent reminds me of honeysuckle. We keep it espaliered to c. 5 and 1/2 feet tall by 6 feet wide, by c. 3 feet from front to back.
'Comtesse Emmeline de Guigne' 4-5'
scent: of ripe plum and apricot fruit with mixed floral.
Westside Road Cream Tea' a wonderful white Tea, it matures to c. 4 and 1/2 feet tall and of all Tea roses has the most dependable scent, which I would rate as 5 out of 10. I really love the scent of this rose.
Rogue valley rose nursery sells it. It is a "lost and found" rose, that was found by Phillip Robinson of in Northern California. It is far more resistant to p.m. than Ducher was in my no-spray garden.
For a Damask scent (the scent one expects from a red modern rose) I suggest a Tea-Hybrid; Mlle. Cecille Brunner' which is a cross between an Old Garden Tea and a Polyantha. Easily kept to 4 and 1/2 feet tall by c. 3 and 1/2 feet wide. It is a very pretty pink rose with small but perfectly shaped blossoms.
Spray Cecille Brunner' can be used as a hedge, of 3-4 feet tall by 2 feet wide, by c. 6 feet long and it has a longer bloom cycle than the original form of M.C.B. or its climbing forms. A neighbor of mine has made a hedge border from one 'Spray Cecille Brunner and I love walking by and inhaling the rosy perfume from it. .



clipped on: 10.11.2013 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2013 at 03:38 pm

RE: "roots" like a weed (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bluegirl on 10.04.2013 at 05:15 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Have to agree that Chinas, teas & polys in general are easiest--at least for me.

All time easiest? Caldwell Pink. It is so no-fail I don't have to use any of the normal rooting procedures on it. Clippings tossed on the compost pile root--literally. Great pass along rose.


clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 07:53 pm

RE: "roots" like a weed (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: gnabonnand on 10.05.2013 at 04:10 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Easiest for me have been:
Mrs. Dudley Cross
Nur Mahal
Gruss an Aachen / Pink Gruss an Aachen

I have an excellent, thornless Reine des Violettes. I sure wish I could root that one. It fails every attempt.



clipped on: 10.07.2013 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2013 at 07:53 pm

growing other roses with crimsons

posted by: poorbutroserich on 09.27.2013 at 07:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

What roses look good with Barcelona? or Crimson Glory? or Cramoisi Superieur?
I've heard apricot colors are nice with them, but I'm just not getting that and I don't want to wait until bloom to plant them...
Will the different shades of crimson combine nicely? Not the red warm shades but the cooler bluer shades? I guess that's why apricot would look nice with them...
I went nuts with blue cranesbills this summer...


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 10:44 pm

RE: pruning Grey Dawn (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hartwood on 10.03.2013 at 04:38 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I don't grow Grey Dawn, but I do grow a lot of roses that others would shovel prune for being poor performers. I have noticed a definite improvement in their vigor over time, especially when I see to their fertilizer and watering needs, and when I am more diligent with my fungicide to keep the blackspot at bay.

As an example, Lyon Rose has always been a runt in a prime space in my front garden, but I keep it because it's rare and historic. This year, I fertilized with Osmocote in May, mulched it well, kept the weeds under control, watered it whenever I thought it needed it, and sprayed it regularly with Honor Guard. It rewarded me by growing from a one-foot embarrassment into a 3 x 3 foot plant (still kind of spindly), but it's been flowering pretty much nonstop in flushes all summer long. For pruning, I plan to do as little of that as possible come springtime.


clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 07:57 am    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 07:57 am

RE: Austin Rose Suggestions, Etc. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: lynnette on 10.01.2013 at 08:25 pm in Roses Forum

Christopher Marlowe does very well in the PNW but be warned he does like to bend over. A rose that look ok at the end of a rose bed to add softness to the edge. No disease and a good fragrannce.


clipped on: 10.02.2013 at 12:44 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2013 at 12:44 pm

RE: growing other roses with crimsons (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 10.01.2013 at 12:59 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here is Crimson Glory growing with Sombreuil and Jackmanni clematis.



clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 04:36 pm

RE: Kordes roses verdict: excellent (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: nanadoll on 07.27.2012 at 03:28 am in Roses Forum

I love the Tantau roses I've acquired so far. I have three Bernstein-Rose (the full name) bushes which are small plants whose blooms look a lot like Julia Child's. The blooms are the same size as Julia's, but the plants are way smaller. I have them located on a lower level below my two JCs to kind of echo the Julias. B-R is very healthy with dark shiny green leaves and a nice compact growth habit. It's never supposed to have much size which is what I wanted in the small spaces they grow in. I also have had two stunning Tantau Ascot grandiflora roses for a year which I have been raving about for a while. The bareroot plants took off like rockets and are always in bloom. And they are only a year old. Don't overlook Tantau. Diane


clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 09:52 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 09:52 am

RE: Is Henri Martin supposed to look this way? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jon_in_wessex on 09.30.2013 at 01:48 pm in Antique Roses Forum

. . . or let him climb into a tree:

Best wishes,


clipped on: 10.01.2013 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 10.01.2013 at 09:31 am

RE: Perle d'Or blooms blowing (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: roseseek on 09.30.2013 at 03:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A combination of both, Susan. It should improve with more maturity, but very hot, brilliant, sunny and particularly arid conditions will rapidly speed the "blowing" of most blooms. Some are worse than others. The smaller, narrower, thinner and more "papery" the petal, the worse the "blow." More fragrant blooms traditionally fit into the "thinner, more papery" petal types, and are often fast to blow. Not "always" and you can find examples which don't fit the "rule", but in general you will find this the case. Kim


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 08:20 pm

RE: growing other roses with crimsons (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 09.30.2013 at 12:03 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I have an entire large bed devoted to roses with cool shades of red to pink and lavender, backed by two lavender crape myrtles. I can't even remember what made me do this, but it seems to work, especially since not all the roses bloom at the same time and the plants are all well-clothed with leaves. Here's the list:

Duchess of Albany (small and young, recently replanted here)
Heirloom (still a band with blooms removed)
Pretty Jessica
Sophy's Rose (two plants)
Mr. Bluebird
Bishop's Castle
Souvenir de Germain de St. Pierre (a tea rose)
Marjorie Palmer
Madame Dore
Baptiste LaFaye
Carefree Wonder
Angel Face (will be joining this group when it arrives in October)

Two upright junipers flank each of the two crape myrtles in the back and there are remontant irises of different colors and sea lavender scattered throughout. Due to the drought this area, along with the rest of the garden, is only a shadow of what it could be and has been in the past.



clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 12:37 pm

RE: growing other roses with crimsons (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: lou_texas on 09.30.2013 at 10:53 am in Antique Roses Forum

Susan, I have Barcelona, Oklahoma, Munstead Wood, Tradescant - not next to each other, but I don't think any of these would clash if they were. Not sure about Cramoisi and Louis Philippe. And even though they are not crimson, I don't think my Archduke Charles or Maggie would clash with the first four mentioned. I tend to plant lighter shades next to darker shades for contrast like others have said. Duchesse de Brabant is next to Barcelona, Sharifa Asma is next to Tradescant, Ducher is next to Maggie, and Oklahoma and Munstead Wood are flanked on each side by hollies, viburnum, canna Black Velvet and Lamb's Ear (grown for the contrasting color and texture of the foliage). My two Archduke Charles (planted as one) are behind Souvenir de la Malmaison - these remind me of Jack Sprat and his wife because AC is tall and upright and she is wider than she is tall.

Where I really made a mistake this year is planting red lycoris close to my crimson roses. Ugh! The lycoris is a light warm red. Now the Munstead Wood looks gorgeous with the cream colored lycoris. Great contrasting color and texture. I wish I'd take the time to get the pics organized and learn to post them so you could see how gorgeous. It's on my to do list. Lou


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 12:36 pm

Small Old Garden Roses for Small Gardens

posted by: ThomasLearning on 09.01.2013 at 02:32 am in Antique Roses Forum

Small Old Garden Roses (OGR) for Small Gardens

Here is a revised list of small Old Garden Roses for small gardens. I will post a new list from time to time as I learn about new roses. Many of the roses were suggested by this forum’s members. Thank you again. I would love to hear from any one who has grown these roses for 4 years or so and who prune these roses (if needed). Please share your tips for keeping the size small and the roses beautiful.

1. Archduke Charles (China / Bengale circa 1825)
2. Barbara's Pasture Rose (Hybrid Perpetual, found rose)
3. Beauty of Rosemawr (Tea, 1903)
4. Boule de Neige (Bourbon, 1867)
5. Captain Harry Stebbins (Hybrid Tea discovered 1980)
6. Comtesse du Cayla (China 1902)
7. Devoniensis (Tea, Foster 1838)
8. Duke of Edinburgh (Hybrid Perpetual, 1860 to 1869)
9. Enfant de France (Hybrid Perpetual, 1860)
10. Francis Dubreuil (Tea 1984)
11. Green Rose (China prior to 1845)
12. Kronprinzessis Viktoria von Preussen (Bourbon 1888)
13. La France (Hybrid Tea 1867)
14. La Reine (Hybrid Perpetual, 1842)
15. Lady Hillingdon (China, 1910)
16. Madame Cornelissen (Bourbon introduced 1860 to 1869)
17. Maggie (Bourbon)
18. Marchesa Bocella (Hybrid Perpetual, 1842)
19. Old Blush (China Hybrid, 1852)
20. Souvenir de la Malmaison (Bourbon introduced 1843)
21. The Doctor (Tea Hybrid, 1936)
22. Westside Road Cream Tea
23. White Pet (Polyantha, 1879)


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 05:11 pm

RE: Madame Isaac Pereire vs. Souvenir du President Lincoln (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: zjw727 on 09.23.2013 at 02:40 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Mme Dubost has the most wonderful scent! Also, the color is much more like MIP than President Lincoln.

Windeaux: a very good point about President Lincoln being a more graceful bush. It's less tall, and more rounded, as opposed to the gangly, sprawling canes of MIP. You know, Rogue Valley Roses has President Lincoln in stock, at a price of $13.95 for a band. I'm going to order it, because I'm now very curious to see how it will perform in my damp climate, especially as a comparison to MIP, which I already grow. How exciting! Hahaha : )



clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 05:05 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 05:05 pm

RE: What Looks Great Next to Mme. Isaac Pierre (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: mauvegirl8 on 09.22.2013 at 07:53 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My Ernest Calvat has been in my garden only 1 year.
I do not know the size at maturity. The foliage is ever green despite
my very hot & high humidity summer season. No blackspot.

Another rose for thought, is Louise Odier, very lovely


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 04:56 pm

RE: pretty "eyelash stamen" singles (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: roseseek on 09.18.2013 at 11:39 pm in Roses Forum

You're welcome, Kippy. Susan, how about...Lynnie, Carlin's Rhythm, Lilac Charm, Ellen Willmott, Frances Ashton, Isobel, Sunny June, Vesuvius, Altissimo, White Wings, Flamingo (H. Rugosa, 1956), Flame of Love (HT), Secret Garden Musk Climber...enough to look up for a little while? Kim


clipped on: 09.20.2013 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2013 at 02:55 pm

RE: pretty "eyelash stamen" singles (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: campanula on 09.19.2013 at 06:58 pm in Roses Forum

While pondering another post - a perfect rose sprang to mind - take a look at Ellen Wilmott - one of the early single hybrid teas - there were several which appeared over a decade, many of which are still in commerce to day - Dainty Bess, Dairy Maid, Irish Elegance, Mrs.Oakley Fisher....and Ellen - a delicate lilac with a glorious boss of stamens.


clipped on: 09.20.2013 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2013 at 02:50 pm

RE: training climbers and best support (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 04.02.2013 at 01:41 pm in Roses Forum

It really does depend on what kind of rose it is...I have three of the ones you mentioned, and they are all so different. I have Sombreuil growing on an arch support which is about 9 feet tall and 10 feet wide. On the other side of the arch is the house wall, which it hit and is now climbing up happily. This rose has really stiff canes which you need to train when they are young and pliable (not to mention horrendous thorns). We did just attack it about a month ago - it had gotten so large it was pulling the arch off to one side, and random canes were impeding pedestrian passageway. We left just a few very long canes, and cut back the latterals (sp?) to about 12-18 inches . It loved it, and is thriving and planning its next move to take over the universe.

Phyllis Bide is the opposite - long, pliable canes that you can do practically anything with. Mine thrives in partial shade. This one might be a good one to try horizontally. It does not get too big.

MAC in my garden is sort of wild - I have 3 of her - I just plant her in total shade at the bottom of trees and stand back. No pruning (unless canes fall off the tree in a storm). The tallest has achieved 30 feet up a pine tree with no intervention by me since it was maybe 4 feet tall. MAC blooms continuously here for at least 11 months each year. This rose might be a good candidate for training - its canes are long and not too big around - hopefully someone who has experience doing that will respond -

All of my roses have leafed out 100% already and are in bud or blooming, so no bare pictures. I will try and remember to take some next Winter.



clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 12:38 pm

RE: training climbers and best support (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: the_dark_lady on 04.02.2013 at 09:56 am in Roses Forum

Susan, I took pictures for you of my trained climbers this morning.
May be photos are not too showy, but you might get the idea.
The two photographed are Jasmina and Baltimore Belle.
 photo DSC_18161024x674.jpg

 photo DSC_18151024x674.jpg

 photo DSC_18141024x652.jpg

 photo DSC_18131024x641.jpg

Both are growing on the south-east side of the house, about 2' from the wall.

Last year's photos of them:
Baltimore Belle photo DSC_3787.jpg

Jasmina photo DSC_3772.jpg

This post was edited by the_dark_lady on Tue, Apr 2, 13 at 11:12


clipped on: 09.18.2013 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2013 at 12:38 pm

RE: Favorite Noisettes and Tea-Noisettes (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: catspa on 06.13.2013 at 10:53 am in Antique Roses Forum

jaspermplants, Celine Forestier did not really get going here until about her 6th year. Before then she bloomed sparsely not more than twice a year, smallish flowers on a weak-looking plant. This is now her 9th year and the plant is looking very robust. She is almost continuously in bloom during, with the lagging end of one plant-covering flush meeting the beginning of another and the flowers are huge. I bet yours will get better with time.

Jaune Desprez was also slow to become the nearly continuous bloomer it is now (though not slow to become big!). Folks have complained about these roses being stingy about repeating, but I think patience is needed. Mine have all become better repeaters with time.

I've never met a tea-noisette I didn't like.


clipped on: 09.17.2013 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:15 pm

RE: Favorite Noisettes and Tea-Noisettes (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: luxrosa on 06.12.2013 at 07:00 pm in Antique Roses Forum

'Secret Garden Noisette' is the strongest smelling Noisette I've ever smelled, the scent lingered on my fingertips for hours after I lovingly ruffled a bloom at San Jose Heritage Rose Garden. I wish it were in commerce, for that.
the blooms are vivid pink around the edges and light pink in the center.

'Celine Forestier' is one of my most disease resistant roses and I love its' fragrance, a rich blend of mixed floral. I just with it would stay more of a yellow hue, usually it is a crisp white with c. 5% yellow saturation.

I just rooted a Crepescule from a neighbors plant and it is the most disease resistant of all the Noisettes I've met.
I have a 'Marachal Niel' that I am growing as a centerpiece rose in the middle of a square plot, I haven't chosen the structure on which it will climb, yet.

I planned to grow two Lamarque over my entryway arbor but one of them died, they had small root structures when they arrived. I replaced one with a Mme. Alfred Carriere , I grew to love it.

Reve d' Or always gets complements, I plan on planting two to flank an sidewalk, grown in a Tree Rose shape at c. 5 feet tall with the lower canes pruned off, to show companion plants around it.

Catos' Cluster' has sported to a half white-half pink rosebush in my garden, I was planning to introduce the white sport, as Catos Cloud' but it turns an ashy grey before the petals drop off.

Alister Stella Gray is also a favorite of mine, a neighbor chose it over hundreds of other roses in our garden to make a bridal circlet to hold her wedding veil in place, on her wedding day. I cannot imagine a higher esteem for a rose.

I'd like to meet 'Leys Perpetual' it is a lemony yellowo Tea-Noisette that is said to be disease resistant, as much as I adore M.N. he gets a bit of blackspot in my no-spray garden in the autumn, not enough to bother me much, but when there is a more disease resistant rose of a similar color with good scent, I think it is worth trying.

very fragrant white shrub Noisette, with a scent that wafts on the air just as R. moschata does. Rebloom as rapid as a China.

I was so excited about all the Tea Noisettes and Tea roses that had brought over from Europe, but now they are going out of business, sigh.....



clipped on: 06.12.2013 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:14 pm

RE: Favorite Noisettes and Tea-Noisettes (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: fogrose on 06.12.2013 at 01:20 am in Antique Roses Forum

Putting in a vote for Reve d'Or and Alister Stella Gray, both Tea Noisettes.

They do well for me in part shade.



clipped on: 09.17.2013 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:11 pm

RE: placement/combination of climbers and ramblers (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 08.29.2013 at 12:35 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Susan, since you say space is at a premium (and don't most of us have that problem!), I thought I'd mention that apparently Cl. SdlM is not nearly as good a bloomer as the bush form. I would want to concentrate on the ones that give the most bang for your buck in that respect. For me Cl. Lady Hillingdon and Reve d'Or were excellent rebloomers and not that difficult to keep within bounds.



clipped on: 09.17.2013 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:08 pm

RE: placement/combination of climbers and ramblers (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: catsrose on 08.29.2013 at 08:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

I have similar conditions of both structure and orientation and am in a similar zone. I have one rambler (The Garland) planted close to one corner and she takes up half the space and would take up more if I let her. On the other corner I have a climber. About 6' away from the building I have smaller roses, mostly polys and small chinas (more contiuous bloom), and a gallica. This seems to work. The rambler really can get out of control quickly!!!

When the rambler is in bloom, she's fantastic, but she's just a Thorny Green Monster from mid-June on and then a mass of twigs all winter. I have Altissimo as a climber, but Don Juan would be great and blooms better (I have him further down the line on the house). The red contrasts nicely in the spring and diverts the eye from the Green Monster the rest of the season.

I would save Crepuscle for a shady area, as it does very well in shade.


clipped on: 09.17.2013 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:06 pm

RE: placement/combination of climbers and ramblers (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: harborrose on 08.29.2013 at 02:11 am in Antique Roses Forum

Susan, just thinking out loud...

assuming you want rebloom on the garage wall, I would eliminate the ramblers. If you take out the noisettes, that leaves the following. I also took out Buff Beauty because I don't think it wants to climb, really; it is more of a mounder or shrub.

Then if you consider that the exposure is hot afternoon sun, I'd take out Lady Hillingdon, because I think the color would fade badly.

That leaves,

Parade - deep pink
Aloha Hawaii - kordes apricot/pink

Blossomtime - med pink, can be grown as shrub
Polka - apricot

Monsieur Paul Lede - climbing hybrid tea apricot
Stormy Weather (great repeat) - purple can be grown as shrub

SDLM cl, pink
Don Juan , red, hybrid tea climber

After that I'd take out Paul Lede, cl, Polka and Blossomtime, because of the possible fading in the hot sun. Apricots and light pinks sometimes fade. Have you noticed that they do or are they blooming yet? That leaves

Parade - deep pink
Aloha Hawaii - kordes apricot/pink
Stormy Weather (great repeat) - purple can be grown as shrub
SDLM cl, pink
Don Juan , red, hybrid tea climber

How does Stormy Weather do in blazing hot sun? does it fade to a gray or retain its color?

Most Kordes roses love sun so I think Aloha Hawaii might do well there. I think that might mix well w/Parade and SDLM, climbing. I don't know about the thorn count on those, so that's something to consider. Anyway, that gives you a mixer rose of apricot with red/pink (Aloha Hawaii) and SDLM, cl (pink) and Parade (dark pink).

As I said, just thinking out loud - fwiw.

If it were me I'd try putting them in their pots at the base of the wall and see how the colors blend - are they blooming yet? And I'd check to see if those apricots do fade. I don't think Aloha Hawaii will; Parade is pretty dark so will probably be okay and SDLM I think will be fine.

If Stormy Weather does okay and doesn't fade to gray, it might look great with SDLM and Parade. It depends on what you like together.

Something else to consider is that some of those are good as shrubs also, so the branching structure might be awkward against a wall. The hybrid tea climbers will probably climb straight up, though. And be sure to think about whether you like the blooms and how the rose looks. Just because you bought it doesn't mean you have to plant it!

Hope I didn't make the decision more muddy and all that was more of a help than a hindrance! Good luck with all that.

and just one more thing, do you have Stephen Scanniello's book on climbing roses? He gives a lot of good advice about how to train climbers and has a good mention of Parade, for example. :) Gean

This post was edited by harborrose on Thu, Aug 29, 13 at 2:34


clipped on: 08.29.2013 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 09.17.2013 at 12:05 pm

RE: roses for obelisks (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mad_gallica on 09.11.2013 at 12:21 pm in Antique Roses Forum

To begin near the beginning, hardy, repeat climbing roses tend to be very stiff, difficult to bend, and not something that gets wrapped around anything. The way they are grown with a pillar is to be tied fairly upright to the outside. The reason they go on the outside is because they periodically have to be removed to make room for new ones.

Captain Samuel Holland photo IMG_2580.jpg

This is Captain Samuel Holland on a pillar much like you describe. There isn't a lot of horizontal training going on, and the pillar is being eaten alive. Part of this is because the pillar was put in after the fact to replace a locust post that rotted.


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 02:59 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 02:59 pm

RE: To prune or not to prune? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: michaelg on 09.08.2013 at 01:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Grace--Strong laterals that are vertical will bloom only at the tips. If they are near horizontal when new growth develops in spring, then, during the first flush, they should bloom on many short sublaterals emerging at leaf axils. In other words, strong laterals behave about the same as primary canes. In my experience with ZD, heavy bloom on short spurs coming off horizontal canes occurred mainly in the first flush. Later bloom, such as it was, came at the tips of new vertical growth, whether basal canes or strong laterals.

If you want a less ropy and more bushy plant, you can keep cutting back the laterals after they bloom (or stop without blooming, or get too long). Cut back to two or three leaves and continue doing that until early or mid August. If you prune in fall, you provoke new growth that may not winter in your zone. In spring you can tie or tuck in any remaining strong laterals to a near horizontal position and let them bloom before cutting them back. Treat the strong sublaterals the same way. The idea is to get as much branching as possible. Cut back the basals to get laterals, the laterals to get sublaterals, the sublaterals to get sub-sub laterals, with hopefully two or three branches from each cut.

I don't know whether these are helpful comments in view of how exactly your plant is growing.

This post was edited by michaelg on Sun, Sep 8, 13 at 14:54


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 11:36 am

RE: Small Old Garden Roses for Small Gardens (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: luxrosa on 09.09.2013 at 06:30 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We've kept 'white pet' at 2 1/2 feet tall by 3.3 feet wide for several years. I love its growth habit, it makes a very graceful border plant.
Westside Road Cream Tea' at just under 4' tall by c. 3 feet wide for 3 years, the mother plant at matured at c. 4.5' tall by c. 3.25 feet wide. I grow it with purple verbena.
At Morcom park amphitheatre of roses, a local rose park they've kept a bed of 'Lady Hillingdon' at 4.5 feet tall by slightly less wide for more than twenty years. It may be a genetic H.T. which is why I think it can stand being pruned back every winter by one third.
Comtesse Emmeline de Guigne' at the same rose park has been kept at 4' tall by nearly as wide for 20+ years. sells it, a lovely peach/pink Tea rose. It's my favorite pink and peach Tea and it has an alluring fragrancer.
Etoille de Lyon' a yellow Tea rose that has a delicious scent; espaliered at the same garden to 5.5 feet tall, and it is arching gracefully to about a 7' spread, with a size of c. 3 feet from front to back
Catherine Mermet' has been kept at c. 4' tall by 2.5' wide for several years. It is in partial shade which is why I think it is growing slowly.
Souvenir de la Malmaison' planted in a trio, each kept to 3 feet tall by nearly as wide.
'Rose des Rescht' 3' tall by c. 2.75 feet wide for several years.
white 'Maman Cochet' (bush form) at 5.5' tall by nearly as wide for 5+ years.

Where I used to live, we fit in 180 rosebushes in a rose garden that was only c. 45 feet long by 35 feet wide;
by espaliering
-white 'Lady Banks' on a low 4' tall fence, which worked far better than it sounds.
-climbers such as Sombruiel' on the house, espaliered narrow to c. 3 feet from the house outwards and let spread to c. 20 feet high by 7' to 10 feet wide.
-espaliered 'Mutabilis' in front of a fence so it was almost half its usual thickness from front to back, by 8 feet wide by 7 feet tall.
-self pegged Grandmothers' Hat, to increase bloom production. This is a versatile plant, it can be limbed to appear as a standard rosebush, grown as a climber, or as a shrub.

espaliering reduces a rosebushes size by nearly 50%, and when tiered in a garden it gives a lovely effect with shorter rosebushes in front.
I've tamed ' Mermaid by espaliering it in my backyard to let it spread 15 feet wide but only 3.5 feet from front to back.
-tree roses, standards or limbing a rosebush will allow room for roses like white pet to be planted beneath it. I saw hortico is offering Mme. Hardy as a standard this month; sept. 2013.
My mother grew Mlle. Cecille Brunner' (the original small form of the rosebush) as a limbed plant, by removing the lower lateral canes she had one bare "trunk' like cane which rose to a canopy that was c. 4 feet tall by 2.75 wide, beneath it were leafy purple violets, grape hyacinth with white anenomes to each side of the rose. it was my favorite rose in her garden.
- a few H.P.s can give a big visual "bang" and many of the pink H.P.s are wonderfully and richly fragrant. (self pegging is done by looping an upper cane out and attatching it to the lower third of the plant, this takes less space than pegging it to the ground but it also increases the bloom production by more than 200%. H.P.s that have long whippy canes are good for this; Ulrich Brunner, fils' , Arrilaga' Grandmothers Hat' for instance.

I like small china and Tea roses up front for a border, with white pet, because nearly all of the roses in those classes have excellent re-bloom.

Best wishes for beautiful roses,

F.y.I.espaliering is done by pruning on a vertical plane; you might imagine placing a large sheet of glass,
-held vertically
-just in back of the crown of a rosebush
- and then pruning off all of the canopy that is in back of that imaginary plane of glass.


clipped on: 09.10.2013 at 09:13 am    last updated on: 09.10.2013 at 09:13 am

Some more blooms in Sept

posted by: beth on 09.08.2013 at 10:47 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

First off, here's Miss Lola sassing me when I came back in from taking pics of roses. She wanted food. (she looks kinda evil doesn't she?)
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And here are a few "non roses" blooming now too:

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Echinacea SUNRISE
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Now for the roses...

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RONALD REAGAN - I finally see that so-called red/white/blue look they were talking about when J&P first intro'd this one.
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OLD PORT - really is that purple!!
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MOONSTONE - not a perfect bloom, but I like the interesting folds and unusual effect
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clipped on: 09.09.2013 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2013 at 05:13 pm

And still some more blooms in Sept....

posted by: beth on 09.08.2013 at 10:56 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Here's the rest of them from this week...

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LORISE - I'm still waiting for that darker edge on this one.
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and with a garden friend hiding underneath...
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clipped on: 09.09.2013 at 05:12 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2013 at 05:12 pm

RE: How winter affects roses--dormancy etc. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 09.07.2013 at 12:21 pm in Roses Forum

I think the general principle should be, prune AFTER the time of worst growing conditions and BEFORE the time of best conditions. So where winter affects roses (freeze of < 26-28 F kills new growth), prune in late winter or early spring when the chance of such freezes has become slim. But if such freezes don't occur in your microclimate, then you could choose to prune at a different time, such as when the summer heat breaks, or the drought breaks, or the season of worst diseases is over.

Many in CA prune in November so plants grow out in the rainy season, but that wouldn't do if you expect freezes in January.

Andrea, I know you have a lot of young plants. These may not need pruning in their first year.


clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 08:49 pm

RE: placement/combination of climbers and ramblers (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: lynnette on 09.05.2013 at 03:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Observations from a PNW garden of the best for carmine pink upright growth
Aloha Hawaii...a must have not too tall upright
Crepuscule...grows fan shape then bends over
Blossomtime...starts upright then flares out
Polka...needs warmth then grows into a large bush
Buff Beauty...tall then spreads and finally bends
Alister Stella Grey...didn't like my climate thin canesl
Reve d'Or...deeper color than Gloirie Dijon much smaller
Monsieur Paul all time favorite,very fragrant
SDLM cl...when good very tall when not frail growth
Don Juan...needs heat to do well, excellent red color
Spanish Beauty...another that needs heat very fragrant
Blue Magenta...thicy canes like a fan, real violet color
Long John Silver...beautiful monster rose icy white flws
Francois of the best ramblers
Gardenia...a favorite very bushy prune to make upwards


clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 08:44 pm

RE: Your Opinions on Arethusa (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: odinthor on 09.05.2013 at 12:25 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Try the Polyantha 'Sunshine' (Robichon, 1927). It's a compact plant, the fragrance is one of the most delicious around, buds and flowers are beautiful, leaves are handsome and healthy. One of the best!


clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 03:31 pm

RE: Geschwind's Schoenste (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hartwood on 09.05.2013 at 09:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

This rose will very quickly outgrow this location. My advice is to cut out canes to keep the rose fairly thin and easily attached to the fence in an espalier style. You can even cut off most of the canes after it flowers in the spring, and keep the basals each year so the rose is newer and less dense. As far as shortening and keeping the rose actually smaller and shorter, you will be fighting a losing battle.

Get good leather gloves and wear long pants and long sleeves when working with ramblers.


clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 01:01 pm

RE: placement/combination of climbers and ramblers (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 09.02.2013 at 08:17 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My concern for your roses is size and growth habits. Some of them are so big. My Edmond Proust is threatening other large ramblers planted ten feet away from it and happily tip roots. Most of the ramblers you have a large. Gardenia and Arcata Pink Globe will be too much in the Crab Apple together. I've grown both Aloha and Polka as large shrubs. Parade is stiffly branched. SDLM climbing is much bigger than you would imagine. Climbers do look good mixing it up a bit as long as one doesn't thug the other out. As time goes by they grow more. I don't want to be discouraging just cautionary. I'm growing almost all the roses on your list. I wish I could show them to you. It would take too long to address each one. If you have the space give them space. Try not to plant a thug next to something less vigorous. You've really chosen a list of great roses. I hope it all turns out wonderfully.


clipped on: 09.04.2013 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 09.04.2013 at 10:17 am

RE: Big beautiful teas (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: harborrose on 08.29.2013 at 03:39 am in Antique Roses Forum

'Mme Melanie Willermoz' and 'Mlle. de Sombreuil' sometimes sold as 'La Biche' are both smaller tea roses you might like. I have MMW and it is a lovely bloom. I had MdS once but killed it up here. No doubt it would love your yard, though.

I tried growing William R. Smith in a pot once upon a time. Then I tried to prune him so he'd stay smaller. Now that was two bad ideas!

I also agree that Duchesse du Brabant might do fine in a pot for awhile or 'Madame Joseph Schwartz' . Gean


clipped on: 08.29.2013 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 08.29.2013 at 09:42 am

RE: Stuggling to space Teas. Help from the South/East contingency (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: barbarag_happy on 08.28.2013 at 02:53 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Mrs. BR Cant-- 8 x 8 wants to be even bigger!
Duchesse, Mme. Joseph-- 5X4
Lady Hillingdon-- 4X3 I've seen her bigger tho
Mrs. Dudley Cross 6X5

And if you need one more for your list-- consider Mme. Antoine Mari. Very vigorous and healthy with extremely refined blooms of delicate cream and pink.

These are all 5 years or better, growing in 5 to 6 hours of sun, no irrigation, and surrounded by mature trees. Teas rock!


clipped on: 08.29.2013 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 08.29.2013 at 09:40 am

RE: Stuggling to space Teas. Help from the South/East contingency (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: anntn6b on 08.28.2013 at 09:59 am in Antique Roses Forum

From northeast of Knoxville, and about a half a zone colder.

My teas reached about six to seven feet with the culture usually afforded HTs: drip irrigation and organic fertilizers. That took five to six years (but for Lady H who languished).

Then we had several very dry years and although we didn't lose our well, it was struggling to pump ofr lengthy periods, so the irrigation went off. Tea sizes adjusted backwards to three to four feet.

Now with the rains this year, the sizes are back to five to six feet.

Originally I planted mine way too close together; silly me, I believed the local rose experts (most of whom are bedecked with awards) who said we couldn't grow teas (etc.) in Tennessee and I was ready to winter protect what I expected to have as struggling bushes. It taught me not to pay much attention to self professed experts.

Generalization, except for Safrano, the light yellow teas are smaller here. The pinks love this part of the country and will get big. Leave any dead canes in place: they provide support and are barriers to rabbit predation in late winter. Dead canes will snap off after a year or two and you won't damage live canes by trying to get secateurs in to cut where the cuts don't need to be made. Tea roses can overcome small cankers on their stems, unlike HTs.

The winter back in the 1980s when temps got to -28F for three nights probably wiped out our old tea roses; it also wiped out the HTs here. HTs got replanted; the teas should have been replanted as well.


clipped on: 08.29.2013 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 08.29.2013 at 09:39 am

RE: Late Summer "Good Rose" Lineup (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 08.28.2013 at 02:26 am in Antique Roses Forum

windeaux, I'm so glad you like Romaggi Plot Bourbon. It doesn't crisp in my garden although it does fall apart, which doesn't bother me.

I happen to have Duchess of Albany although it's having a hard time taking off for some reason. I've seen only one bloom open and I must say I prefer the color of La France, but the jury is still out since it's such a puny plant. Augustine Guinoisseau I had years ago in another garden but as I remember it seemed floppy and weak to me, both the bush and the flowers.

How interesting that La France is now considered a Bourbon. They do well for me too as a class, although this summer SdlM is not nearly as stellar as before, and neither are Mme. Cornelissen or Kronprinzessin Viktoria. Mme. Dore is lovely but the blooms don't last well in the heat and the plant is still very small after at least three years.

If you ever do try the early hybrid teas again, I can't recommend Souvenir du President Carnot enough. It's amazing how well it stands the heat even though it has few leaves and is rather gaunt, not being a mature plant. The flowers are wonderful and last very well.



clipped on: 08.28.2013 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2013 at 03:54 pm

RE: Late Summer "Good Rose" Lineup (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 08.24.2013 at 07:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My Le Vesuve, Duchesse de Brabant, Rosette Delizy, Little White Pet, Safrano, Anna Olivier, Sombreuil, Cl Crimson Glory, and an old hybrid tea called Duet are all blooming like crazy, and have been all summer.



clipped on: 08.26.2013 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2013 at 09:16 pm

Late Summer "Good Rose" Lineup

posted by: ingrid_vc on 08.24.2013 at 02:39 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Earlier in the summer I had commented on which roses were doing well in the heat and promised an update in August. I suppose "late summer" is a misnomer here, since September and October can be hellish, and indeed October is our official wildfire season. My weather is dry and my garden a heat trap because of lots of hardscape, huge boulders and a high hill adjacent to the front yard, which also has a very large concrete pad. Rose heaven!

I want to say that these roses are now being watered every day and they are mulched. Without that I'm sure it would be a different story. I'm not putting these in any particular order but the best do head the list. None of them have disease issues.

Le Vesuve: One of the best, not fazed by the heat as long as it has adequate water, with constant new growth, blooms and buds. The flowers are normal in size and appearance on my two bushes.

La France: Not a mature rose or a large bush yet, but wants to bloom in the heat, and the beautiful blooms are full-sized, normal in color and intensely fragrant. I love it so much that I bought a second band from Burling in November which I'm having to constantly disbud. A great rose for the hot, dry garden although I know la brea in New York also grows it well.

Souvenir de President Carnot: Another early Hybrid Tea that I absolutely love. Some of you may have seen photos of it that I posted earlier in the year. It's right next to the concrete pad but keeps putting new growth on its still gangly, young frame and continual buds, which I've disbudded to induce more leaves. However, I'm leaving one bud now to see how the flower performs in the heat. I can't recommend this rose enough for anyone with a similar climate. Rogue Value has it although mine was from Vintage.

Rosette Delizy: Blooming like gangbusters, although the color is mostly yellow instead of its usual two-tone. A rudely healthy and bushy rose.

Souvenir de Germaine de St. Pierre: This tea rose oddly blooms best when it's cut back frequently, which is necessary to curb its gangly tendencies. Covered with buds right now. The very floppy and short-lived cerise blooms are not to everyone's taste but I've changed my mind about taking it out.

Bishop's Castle: A consistently good performer with somewhat smaller but still pretty flowers and pretty bush, which continues to push out new growth in the heat.

Spice: I wrote a thread about this rose some time ago, complaining about its unspectacular blooms, which fry and shatter very quickly in the heat, and many of you agreed. However, it's staying because it's blooming so well now and is a nice, dense and healthy bush. Ruthless as I am about culling, I can't bring myself to get rid of this willing bloomer.

Marie Pavie: A very good bloomer and grower in the heat, and I'm sure it's my fault that it doesn't enthuse me more, but it too is not going anywhere, and I suspect in a few years it may come into its own.

Souvenir de la Malmaison: Not as spectacular as last year for some reason but still performing reasonably well, and the blooms for me are still pink and almost of normal size.

Little White Pet: A recent addition but a wonderfully healthy and pretty little shrub. I've been disbudding it and have only seen one or two blooms, but it has so many buds that I suspect pretty soon I'll just let it bloom away due to fatigue (on my part).

The Ingenious Mr. Fairchild: Not mature and I'm disbudding it, but a good grower in the heat since I moved it to a better spot. This rose seems to have good potential for a hot, dry garden.

Baptiste La Faye: Also a younger rose which has filled out very nicely and has pretty, small purplish flowers. It withstands the heat very well and continues to bloom.

Romaggi Plot Bourbon: This rose has really improved in year 3 and is constantly making new flowers, which are bigger now even in the summer than the somewhat diminutive ones of the past years. A charming Bourbon that I can now recommend for the hot garden.

Burbank: This sleeper of a pink China rose is rarely seen in commerce (mine is from Vintage) and has improved very much with more maturity. I was doubtful and thought of taking it out but decided to let it mature more and am very glad I did.

Potter and Moore: One of the earlier Austins (available at Rogue Valley), with lovely cupped, many-petalled pink blooms which I find enchanting. The blooms are not as good in the heat, but not nearly as bad as some, and right now this rose is putting out new growth and buds after the last flush.

Mutabilis: Not what it is when it's cooler, but still there are new growth and blooms, and it's a large and healthy shrub which gives backbone to the main front garden area.

Lavender Mist: Bravely putting out its lavender blooms, although not in great profusion, the charming small leaves and flowers on a well-clothed bush are still a pleasure to see.

I'll briefly mention some of the disappointments:

Souvenir d'un Ami (nothing happening at all)
Belinda's Dream (gaunt, almost no bloom)
William R. Smith (gaunt and bare)
Bermuda Kathleen (no blooms for quite some time)
White Meidiland (is taking forever to grow and bloom)
Earth Song (now replanted and putting out new leaves)
Young Lycidas (may just need more age)
Sophy's Rose (not nearly as good as earlier in the summer)
Miss Atwood (gaunt and bare)
China Doll (non-performer for several years, now replanted)
Rasberry Parfait (won't grow in a good location)
Mme. Cornelissen (seems to have deteriorated)
Aunt Margy's Rose (blooms are balling in the greater heat)

I hope this has been of some help to you in similar locations. I'd love to know about your late-summer assessment of the roses in your garden.



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RE: How to discourage irregularly long cane growth (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michaelg on 08.24.2013 at 01:09 pm in Roses Forum

This is what vigorous shrub roses do, at least for a few years.

There are latent growth buds at every leaf joint and on bare canes at the spots where leaves used to be (look for small bumps on the bark). So you can prune to any length.

After the cane blooms, or you decide it is not going to bloom, cut it back to 3' or so. It will make two or three lateral shoots near the top. Cut these back after blooming to maybe three leaves and get more laterals. Etc. This is how you develop a bushy, well-branched shrub.

This advice applies to most vigorous shrubs, but not to the old tea and china classes. These should not be pruned much. Also, in zone 7a and colder, do not prune severely during the fall.

Canes do not elongate after being cut back, but they make lateral (secondary) shoots from the bud sites.

This post was edited by michaelg on Sat, Aug 24, 13 at 13:16


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RE: Should I fertilize my roses again? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 08.25.2013 at 11:12 am in Roses Forum

What are "the usual applications"? And how many cups of Mills Mix have you applied?

I fertilize with good results until around Oct. 1. Others in zone 6-7 think you should stop around Sept. 1.

The issue of timing mainly involves nitrogen. Available (soluble) nitrogen is transient in the soil and will wash out in a few weeks. Therefore fertilizers with only fast (available/soluble) N are usually labeled for application every 4-6 weeks. Four weeks is appropriate for poor sandy soils and heavy rain or irrigation.

But organic fertilizers release soluble nitrogen gradually over a year or two. Coated timed-release products release it for 3, 6, or 9 months, as labelled.

The other fertilizer nutrients will persist in the soil if there is some clay content.


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RE: Controlling Size of Old Garden Roses (OGR) in a Small Garden (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: luxrosa on 08.19.2013 at 07:34 pm in Antique Roses Forum

How much space do you have for your O.G.R. garden?

The original form of Mlle. Cecillel Brunner' a charming pink Polyantha -Tea, grows to be c. 4 and 1/2 feet tall by c. 3 1/2 feet wide, rebloom is good and the fragrance is strong,of damask rose with a finish of black pepper.
'Nastarana' is one of the smaller Noisette class rosebushes, and can be kept at the same size, easily. The white flowers are easy to fit in any color schematic and the scent is musky and wonderful and wafts a few feet from the bush in the right conditions.

Fabvier' is a bright red China that is compact in growth habit and can fit in a small garden.

Most Old Garden Tea rosebushes are large plants but
'Westside Road Cream Tea' matures at c. the same size as the other two, but a bit wider, c. 3 and 3/4 feet wide. The roses are large, cream and very fragrant.
Etoille de Lyon' can be kept at c. 5 and 1/2 feet tall by nearly as wide, where I live, and it is easy to espalier many roses of this class,which reduces the square footage of garden space by nearly half. It is a pale to light yellow Tea with a "delicious' scent. It smells of honeysuckle to me.
The Damask Perpetual class and Hybrid Perpetual class has some medium sized to smallish roses; Mme. Boll blooms every season but winter, here and is very fragrant
I've seen the sublime 'Grandmothers Hat' grown limbed to a size of 5 feet tall by just over 3 feet wide, this allows for companion plants to be planted below the canopy, white alyssium or a geranium would be pretty, or a short white Poly, such as Little White Pet'

If I had a small garden I would have a back row of tall espaliered rosebushes to take maximum advantage of the space. A trellis or fence in back of these makes it easier to prune the espalier shape, I find.
For instance;

Reine des Violettes/Etoille de Lyon/Reine des Violettes
espaliered in the back row
G.Hat./Mme Boll/G.Hat in the middle
Little white pet/Borderor/Little white Pet. in the front row

would allow for a purple, white, yellow and pink rose-scape in an area that is 24 feet wide, by c. 15 feet from front to back.

I've mentioned only a few of my favorite smaller Old Roses.. I used to rent a property where we fit more than 180 Old and Modern rosebushes in an area that was only c. 40 feet long by 50 feet wide. we espaliared, and self pegged Hybrid Perpetuals, to keep them smaller and, espaliered China and Tea roses to keep their size nearly half of their normal size,, and grew some rosebushes in pots which kept them smaller (but reduced bloom production in a few) we grew white Lady Banks to form the boundary, of 4.5 feet tall on three fences and grew climbing roses over the arbor entryway, and also grew climbers up the side of the two story Victorian house. This produced a garden that had white Sombruiel climbing the house, white Lady Banks on 3 fences, Mutabilis espaliered and a dozen lavender, pink, and yellow (Callisto) Hybrid Musks espaliered too, Grandmothers Hat limbed, in pots, Marie Van Houtte in partial shade which reduced its' rate of growth and it was kept smaller than 4'X4' for 7+ years.
I've also espaliered 4 rosebushes for a neighbor who had an area of 20 feet wide by 3 and 1/2 feet from back to front with 'Crepescule' Cornelia' and two Lavender Freindship' rosebushes, against a wooden fence, because his clothesline is in front of it. I do like a challenge.
If there is another way to place more roses in a small space, I haven't found it yet. Origami?

Good Luck,


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RE: If I hack it will I kill it? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: michaelg on 08.16.2013 at 02:54 pm in Roses Forum

'Caramela' will make a nice full 5x5 shrub with repeated pruning. If you haven't allowed at least 4' width, you will need to replant. 5' wouldn't hurt. I would cut the long canes back to 3' as soon as they have bloomed and then cut the subsequent laterals back to three leaves. After a few years of this you will have a nicely branched plant, and I'd expect it will not feel the need to make 10' shoots.

Don't prune too much in the fall months. In spring you could prune to about 4' but preserve most of the branching.

'Caramela' is very much a shrub rose and not a floribunda. I haven't seen "Kosmos FT' but it sounds similar.


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RE: opinions on Dream Come True no spray (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: poorbutroserich on 08.15.2013 at 06:47 pm in Roses Forum

Thanks everyone!
Chaoticdreams, we've had lots of rain here also but mine seem to be doing well with all the rain? I haven't had much BS to complain of here this year. Our temps have been cooler this year too.
The OGR once bloomers are mildewy and nasty and I just keep cutting them back.
Kitty and Nipp, what are some other good cutting roses? I really love those old timers with the thick "pleather" petals and the "veining" and stuff like that.
That and fragrance.
After reading lots of threads I've made a list of cutting modern HT's I'd like to have:
Gemini, Double Delight, Fragrant Cloud, Firefighter, Memorial Day, PJP II, Perfume Delight, McCartney Rose, Stephen's Big Purple, Valencia, Ice Cream, Chandos Beauty, Imperatrice Farah, Copper Queen, Medallion, Broceliande, Secret, Speelwark, Paradise, Jadis...
They will all be in pots in an area behind my garage so if they look awful but keep blooming that's just fine.


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RE: 7A Hardy Fragrant Roses (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: AquaEyes on 08.05.2013 at 02:36 pm in Roses Forum

I, too, am a bit of a fragrance snob, so I understand your motivation. I think you should expand on the petal-count criterium, however, if you want roses whose fragrance can be smelled from a distance.

Generally, the roses whose fragrance wafts (and you should do a search for "waft fragrance rose" on here to find a lot of suggestions) do so because their fragrance comes from their stamens, not their petals. So the more stamens, the more fragrance can be emitted by them. And since double flowers result from stamens mutating into petals, the best wafters tend to have fewer petals. Look into roses related to R. moschata and R. multiflora -- Noisettes, a select few Polyanthas, and Hybrid Musks. And consider R. moschata itself as well. There are, of course, exceptions -- quite a few fully-double flowers are reported to "waft" in some of the threads linked below.

Another thing to consider is fragrant foliage. The benefit of roses with this feature is that they don't need to be blooming for them to perfume the yard. Two species that come to mind are R. rubiginosa (formerly known as R. eglanteria) and its hybrids -- the Eglantines -- as well as R. primula, which is also known as The Incense Rose.

Finally, keep in mind that wafting fragrance is most strong when the weather is warm and somewhat humid. If you live along the East coast, you're all set.



Here is a link that might be useful: Search for


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RE: Favorite Polyantha (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 08.12.2013 at 12:10 am in Antique Roses Forum

My favorite polyantha for years has been the little-known Aunt Margy's Rose which is almost 7 feet tall against the house wall and has beautifully formed flowers with a lovely fragrance. The leaves are also pretty and completely without disease for me.

Marie Pavie is also a very good performer as is Baptiste La Fay; the latter needs more time in the ground to show what it can do.

I love Mr. Bluebird but it has shown problems with blackspot and has not been a vigorous grower. Nevertheless I'm not giving up on my three plants of it and hope it will pull itself together.

Aunt Margy's Rose



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RE: The Ingenious Mr. Fairchild...again (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.12.2013 at 11:35 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Bart: Horse manure NPK is 1.5 / 1 / 1.5. Horse manure on a bedding (wood chips, wood shavings, saw dust, straw, hay) is more diluted with NPK 0.7 / 0.3 /0.6.

The stable here changed their bedding from recycled wood chips to wet hay and wood shavings ... no more fungicide benefit from the recycled wood ... so I don't get that stuff anymore. I use cocoa mulch, high in potassium and all trace elements, NPK 3-1-4,

The best source of potassium is banana peels, NPK 0-3-42 ... super high at 42 for potassium. I checked with my grocery store when they throw out bananas, and get them for cheap. The Coffee Shop Starbucks also give me free bananas peel and coffee grinds.

Rosie in the English Roses Forum informed me that when an Austin is stingy, give it potassium ... it worked really well with Crown Princess Magareta and Eglantyne. Potassium sulfate has salt index of 42, sulfate of potash salt index is 43, muriate of potash (potassium chloride) salt index is 116.2.

Unfortunately the commercial "Potash" is the high-salt Muriate of potash, it's cheap and widely available ... we use that stuff to de-ice our sidewalk in zone 5a winter.

Bart, your rose garden looks great ... Alfalfa meal does stimulate growth on wimpy roses, but I withhold that stuff from vigorous ones .. I'm really lazy in pruning and staking.


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RE: poor ol lavender lassie (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Nippstress on 08.12.2013 at 03:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I'm a few zones colder than you, but my ownroot Lavender Lassie wasn't a strong rebloomer in the 5 or 6 years I've had it in the ground, except for a decent spring bloom. I can't recall if it had much blackspot, it just didn't bloom much after spring. It's in part shade, but so are my other hybrid musks and they bloom a LOT more than LL - Wilhelm, Francesca, Cornelia, Petit de Terre Franche, offhand - all those put LL to shame.

Bottom line is that I don't think it's you. It'll survive the BS fine in all likelihood, but it's not that exciting a plant in mid-summer.



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RE: Name the Ten Most Beautiful Roses (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: susan4952 on 08.09.2013 at 02:32 pm in Roses Forum

Oh Kate, isn't Easter Basket wonderful. She is pink, she is yellow, she is white! Pic is of the white phase.


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RE: Name the Ten Most Beautiful Roses (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brittie on 08.09.2013 at 10:15 am in Roses Forum

I love these threads. They make me really look at my garden and ask, "What DO I like the most?"

Apricot- Tahitian Sunset. I don't know if this really counts as an apricot, or if it's more of a blend, but I love this rose. Very healthy and blooms its fool head off, even in the heat. My plant gets full western afternoon sun, and unfortunately due to my laziness, not very much extra water. No matter! This is a happy rose.

Bicolor- Nicole Carol Miller. Ridiculously beautiful and sweet smelling.

Red- Veteran's Honor probably, because it blooms so often, doesn't fade and lasts forever. But I also love William Shakespeare 2000. And Munstead Wood. Does that count as red? I don't know, but the fragrance from that plant is really out of this world, and it needed to be on this list somewhere. Beautiful and healthy, though it has had a bit of a slow start.

White- PJPII hands down. I've also got Sugar Moon and it really doesn't compare. My two PJP grow tall and very bushy. They love the heat.

Mauve- WWII Memorial. This is a great plant as well as flower. Does get some blackspot, but I forgive it. Blooms constantly. I also truly adore Barbra Streisand. Yeah it's usually quick to blackspot when conditions are right, but the plant is so pretty and the flowers so incredible. The fragrance is like no other.

Yellow- Eternal Flame. The flower form on this one is probably not a favorite to some, and the blooms themselves don't last long. The perfume is so insanely strong, and the flowers come so regularly that I forgive how brief they may be. Tall plant.

Orange- Easy Does It. This one is ever blooming for me, and around five feet tall. Nice, sweet smell.

Russet- Koko Loco, absolutely. Some people hate it, I love it with a passion. Strongly scented in my garden, and large, 5x4 at last count. Rounded, with foliage all the way down to the ground.

Dark Pink- Grande Dame. Tall, strong grower and wafting fragrance.

Light Pink- Liv Tyler. Took a while to get going, but blooms regularly now and the smell really takes me away. Can you tell that fragrance is very important to me? I would also add Tiffany here, even though I only just ordered my first plant. It was my grandmother's favorite rose, and even though she's been gone the lion's share of 20 yrs, her plant still lives. When it's in full bloom, I can't help but smile and think of her.


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RE: Name the Ten Most Beautiful Roses (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: canadian_rose on 08.09.2013 at 12:39 am in Roses Forum

I assume you mean roses that we each grow?

Apricot: Valencia - huge intricately folded flowers

Bicolor: Paradise Found - the fragrance is unique and intoxicating too. Although Gemini isi pretty fantastic looking too.
Mauve: Neptune

Orange:I don't have any oranges - can't think of any that I like :)

Pink, cool: Royal Kate - huge stuffed flowers Oh my goodness!

Pink, warm: Perfume Delight - beautiful flowers and the whole bush is filled with pink.

Red: Alec's Red

White: don't have any whites and none come to mind. :)

Yellow: Gina Lollobridgida - huge stuffed nonfading yellows that last forever

Other: Queen of Sweden - big stuffed pink flowers; Gemini huge 6" flowers and Memorial Day - scalloped edged heavenly perfumed.

Picture is Valencia


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RE: Visual aid for training a climber (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: hoovb on 08.04.2013 at 07:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Those are mostly new canes--the canes that grew big in the previous summer and that will (and did) sprout a lot of laterals come spring. There are a few lateral here and there.

After quite a few years of climbing roses, I've decided more canes isn't necessarily better. If there are too many, a lot of the flowers are hidden. Fewer canes neatly arranged and spaced looks a lot better.


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RE: Visual aid for training a climber (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: cemeteryrose on 08.02.2013 at 09:29 am in Antique Roses Forum

Andrea, you can see a lot of climbers including a dozen on the fence in the Sacramento cemetery. I wrote about training and pruning climbers in our Dec 07 newsletter, too. All climbers are not equal - ramblers have really flexible canes and large-flowered climbers are more rigid. You need to train main canes at an angle or growth and bloom is all at the top.

I disagree with Paul Z on one thing - I never ever wrap canes around or weave them through. I tie everything on one side so that it's easier to remove canes.

At Mottisfont, they take their roses off their structures every year, remove old less productive canes, and tie in new ones. They curve the canes as shown for New Dawn or arch them as Hoovb shows. During the growing season, they protect the new vigorous canes that will be the replacement main canes.

Here is a link that might be useful: training and pruning climbers


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RE: Souvenir de la Malmaison and Young Lycidas (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: mauvegirl8 on 08.04.2013 at 06:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Young Lycidas
bareroot planted straight into the ground
January 2013


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RE: Exceptional roses in the heat (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.07.2013 at 03:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Another bloom of Evelyn taken today at 86 degrees heat. I get continuous cut-flowers from Evelyn, since they open gradually, rather than all at once.


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RE: Exceptional roses in the heat (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.01.2013 at 07:04 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Since I'm so impressed with Francis Blaise, I checked on other Guillot's performance: Paul Bocuse, Madame Paule Massad, and Versigny (I have it). Here are some comments:

On Madame Paule Massad, from Ingrid W. in HMF: "The plant currently has 19 clusters of buds with many opening blooms, and the foliage is immaculate, even though the roses around it are suffering from rust, blackspot and powdery mildew after this rainy and weird winter and spring weather in So. Cal. The fragrance is delightful."

On Paul Bocuse, from Jeri Jennings: "AH! I should have mentioned Paul Bocuse.... PB has earned his spot here by rarely being out of bloom, and always being disease-free here. (Mind, I have no clue as to blackspot.) If I still exhibited roses, I'd want to grow several of Paul Bocuse. Jeri"

I take Versigny over Crown Princess Mag. anytime. Versigny scent is pure heaven ... the petals are thick, and last long in the vase. This orange bloomed at 100 degrees last summer, the foliage is always clean, compact bush but a bit thorny:


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RE: Exceptional roses in the heat (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.01.2013 at 02:43 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Kitty: One rose that repeats way-better than any Austins is Francis Blaise. The disease-resistant is even better than Kordes, not a speck of BS. It's on Pat Henry's favorite list at Roses Unlimited.

It's the best myrrh-rose that anyone could ask for: compact, zero octopus-cane, constant-blooming like a floribunda, heat tolerant (bloomed at 100 degrees), good vase life. It's 2' x 2' in my zone 5a, which is 3' x 3' in a warmer zone. Below is Francis Blaise, non-stop blooming, many-petals:


clipped on: 08.08.2013 at 07:11 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2013 at 07:11 pm

RE: Exceptional roses in the heat (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.31.2013 at 01:24 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Thank you, Diane, for bush-shot of Julia Child. Yours are nicer than the rose park ... I saw Julia Child during cold fall, and also after 100 degrees heat. She looked best during the heat wave.

I take back what I wrote about Kordes rose, Deep Purple floribunda. I wrote that it lost its scent during 100 F, or 38 Celsius heat, true, but I didn't fertilize back then. Recently I gave it soluble NPK 10-52-10 with trace elements, the scent is so STRONG that one bloom made my kitchen spicy clove. But when I stuck my nose into the bloom, it's great old-rose and clove, much better than its wafting scent.

Below is a bouquet of blue "Rose of Sharon", yellow "Golden Celebration", purple "Deep Purple", and pink "Francis Blaise". Deep Purple gets more blue if I give it horse manure (which I haven't). Francis Blaise is my most heavy bloomer in dry heat, besides Bolero.

Francis Blaise's scent is green apple when it's hot, and changes to myrrh when it's cold. Deep Purple bloom lasts 5 days in the vase, and 2 weeks on the bush. Beautiful floribunda, compact, almost thornless ... I wish I have another one!


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RE: Did I ruin my roses when deadheading? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nickl on 07.24.2013 at 08:40 am in Roses Forum

As seil said, you can deadhead using any approach you want as long as it works - you won't damage the bush. With the modern climbers, try to concentrate taking out or cutting back laterals, and try to leave the foundation canes alone as much as possible. Cutting back a foundation cane won't harm the bush in any way in the long run, but in the short run the bush may be set back a bit in terms of blooms until you can retrain another cane.

Much more important than the approach you use, is when you do it. Stop deadheading at the proper time. If you deadhead/prune too late into the season, that CAN result in damage to the bush.


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RE: Austin Octopi (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.22.2013 at 08:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Susan: Before spring with lots of rain, I chopped them below knee. pH of rain water is 5.6, helps with blooming.

After 1st flush, with some rain coming, I chopped them 2 feet. After 2nd flush, less rain, I lightly trimmed ALL branches. After 3rd flush heading into winter, I don't prune whatsoever. They survive my zone 5a winter best if I don't prune.

I prune hard after a flush if there's plenty of rain coming. I prune lightly if there's little rain. Putting vinegar to lower my tap water (pH 8) helps Austins to break out in blooms after pruning. No more than 1 tablespoon vinegar per gallon. Musk like Annie L. McDowell and Marie Pavie blooms better if it's slightly acidic rain water or soil.

Dark-green leaves like Romanticas wilted in the heat with sulfur and acid to lower water pH. Romanticas bloom well with my water at pH 8, they stay compact, no need for pruning.

Pruning and lowering tap water pH to that of rain (pH 5.6)helps most Austins to bloom, except for Evelyn, Golden Cel, and Pat Austin, which bloom well with alkaline tap. I have alkaline soil, so I put sulfur around the bush after pruning. Correcting pH near neutral helps to unlock nutrients to generate blooms.

Some municipals put hydrated lime in tap water so pipes won't corrode. Hydrated lime, with unstable calcium binds up with phosphorus and potassium in soil, thus less blooms if watered with high pH water. To test if your tap water is alkaline, boil that with red cabbage ... if it turns blue, your tap water is alkaline. Compare that with red cabbage boiled in distilled water.

Distilled water boiled with red cabbage turns violet. Distilled water is slightly acidic, not neutral as I thought. If you get violet from boiling your tap water with red cabbage, then you are lucky, no need to adjust tap water.

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Mon, Jul 22, 13 at 22:03


clipped on: 07.23.2013 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 07.23.2013 at 11:10 am

RE: listen to her: Yolande d'Aragon (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rosefolly on 07.21.2013 at 10:45 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Very healthy, tends to get tall and lanky with canes growing mostly from the bottom, not much branching, very bare at the base, repeats 2-3 times over the season. I prune the canes to varied heights to add a bit of fullness to the shape, then plant something else in front of it. I think it is an excellent rose and would not hesitate to include it in a no-spray garden. I never tried growing it on a tripod. It's not a bad idea, though the canes are a bit stiff for that kind of treatment.


clipped on: 07.23.2013 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 07.23.2013 at 11:07 am

RE: Austin Octopi (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.21.2013 at 10:19 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here's the link from University of Illinois Extension on late-fall fertilization for roses, see excerpt: "Roses can be fall fertilized after the plants have gone dormant. Applying fertilizer at this time will not encourage growth but will be available as the plants start to grow in the spring. Also by using a fertilizer high in potassium winter hardiness tends to be increased."

Here is a link that might be useful: University of Illinois Extension on Roses


clipped on: 07.22.2013 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2013 at 07:28 pm

RE: Austin Octopi (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.21.2013 at 11:11 am in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Grace: I learned from Canadian Agriculture website that late fall fertilization before frost yield better result than early spring. So when I winter-protect my roses before hard-frost hit ... I mixed horse manure with alfalfa meal and top-dressed roses. The spring flush was awesome, under 2 feet Austins gave 40+ blooms.

When I prune the 1st flush off, I put gypsum (calcium sulfate) and Epsoma sulfate of potash NPK 0-0-60 (use very little, salt index 43, can brown petals if used in excess or wrong time). Those zillion petals bloom require lots of calcium and potassium for best water uptake.

If I want the blooms to be deeper pink and better color, I give MiracleGro Bloom Booster NPK 10-52-10, high in phosphorus, boron, iron, and trace elements. That's to enhance the blooms' color, I don't use that stuff in hot weather due to its nitrogen content (salt index over 80). I don't use that stuff on Austins since I withhold nitrogen on purpose, so they stay compact.

I tested tomatoe spikes, chemical NPK 8-16-8, that driven deep down with a wooden post. I'm not crazy about the too much leaves result, not much blooms as expected. That chemical stuff can burn foliage in hot temp. I get better blooming with horse manure as mulch.

I learn to stay away from granular fertilizer, even the organic type, since they gunk up on top. Nitrogen mobility is a 10, potassium is somewhat mobile at 3, and phosphorus mobility is a 1, stay put where it's applied.

That's the logic behind using soluble fertilizer for instant phosphorus uptake. If your soil is tested low in phosphorus, soluble is most efficient. A large study in Australian agriculture showed that granular phosphorus didn't help much with the yield, but soluble phosphorus increased yield substantially.


clipped on: 07.22.2013 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2013 at 07:27 pm

RE: Help me select roses to plant in 25 gallon containers (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: luxrosa on 07.08.2013 at 07:36 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We rented a Victorian house near San Francisco, ca a few years ago, and the property had 200+ roses, most of them modern and scentless. Because California law states that if you plant a plant in the landlords property it becomes his/her plant, we started growing Old Roses in pots.
I hope this information helps:
-any plant in a pot requires c. 33% more water (u.c. davis study)
-roses on rootstock have long roots at the start, and will need deep pots.
The rosebushes that flowered best in 8 gallon pots were from these classes: Noisette, Polyantha, Hybrid Musk, Tea and China

Roses that were species Hybrids could take the most abuse, Ramblers including The Garland, Albertine, Pauls Himalaan Musk. I forgot to water some of these for several weeks and they did not complain at all.

I'd put any Hybrid Perpetual in a 25 gallon pot.

My China and Old Garden Tea rosebushes did fine in pots as far as health went but bloomed better, because they grew larger once I bought property and planted them in the ground.

if I had to do it all again I'd grow these in pots:
Mlle. Cecille Brunner
Perle d'Or
Westside Road Cream Tea
Cornelia (grew to be 4' tall in an 8 gallon pot)
Grandmothers Hat
Blush Noisette
Cato's cluster

Large flowered roses with 35 petals or fewer seemed to produce more blooms in pots than those with more petals, it could be a fertilizer thing.



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RE: Lady of Shalott Rose/Winter (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Nippstress on 07.18.2013 at 06:05 pm in Roses Forum

Hi Barry

Kate's advice covers some basic principles of winter protection for cold zones. David Austin sells both grafted and own-root versions of both of those roses, and if you just ordered these I would presume they were own-root, since it's too late in the season to be planting bare-root grafted varieties that DA usually sends. Either way, the best insurance you can do for the time being in the rest of the summer/fall is to ensure a healthy root system going into the winter. Keep it watered but not soaked, and if you can stand it pinch off any buds before they bloom to encourage the plant to send down stronger roots. Don't fertilize other than maybe a weak diluted fish emulsion or alfalfa, and I'd stop even that by August to avoid having weak spindly growth that won't be as hardy over the winters. If you do have a grafted plant and haven't buried the graft at least 2 inches below the soil line, you should consider either gently lifting the plant slightly to dig some of the soil underneath and burying it deeper, or mounding soil around the graft and a few inches above it (and sloping it off gently so it doesn't wash off with rains). Don't prune it heavily or even at all in the fall (except dead wood), since you want as much healthy cane as possible to have something to protect, and allow the inevitable winter kill to leave some cane behind.

In general, I've found in my zone 5 that Austin roses are pretty hardy in general, and those two Austins have survived well for me without much protection. The basic principle of winter protection is to have an organic material that buffers the plant a little from the winter extremes but doesn't hold excess moisture against the plant canes (except of course for snow, nature's best insulator). You only have to protect the roots (in an own-root plant) or an inch or two above the graft (for grafted plants) for the rose to survive and grow again next spring. Roses that die to the ground but regrow are considered "root hardy" and all they'd need (if anything) for winter protection is a little insulation on the ground, like a few inches of dry pine straw, bark mulch, or non-matting leaves (like oak leaves). Most of my Austins would survive zone 5 without even that, but if you're in zone 4 it's liable to help a new rose through the winter with a little help its first year. Once you see how the previous year's canes survive the winter, you can judge how much you do or don't want to protect next time, since most roses become better able to survive the winter as they mature.

You'll hear as many methods of winter protection as there are northern rose gardeners, so pick what works for you. You don't really have to protect at all if you've picked roses that are at least root hardy in your zone (and I suspect these are) or if you have consistent snow cover during the coldest months. Don't worry about temperatures or any winter protection until it's consistently cold even in the days - my rule of thumb is to wait till the highs average in the 20's. Protecting any earlier runs the risk of mice and other critters invading the cozy next you've built, and encouraging canker and other fungus diseases in the trapped warm air. My idea is to keep the roses acceptably cold, not really to try to keep them warm. It's not like you're going to be able to keep the ground in Wisconsin from freezing, and if you tried it would create conditions conducive to fungus diseases you don't want.

Hope this helps for the time being! I plan to post something on general principles of winter protection as we move into fall, since I've been mulling over ways to describe the idea of what we do in winter zones that doesn't dictate exactly HOW to accomplish those purposes in the multiple equally-correct methods we might individually use.



clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 06:01 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 06:01 pm

RE: I love the striped ones! (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: Nippstress on 07.18.2013 at 10:33 pm in Roses Forum

Beth, you're one of my rose heroes when it comes to striped or oddball roses, as well as rose photography in general. On HMF, I often seek out your photos on purpose as I find they tend to reflect a rose's actual colors in my yard without glorifying it or downplaying its potential. The other day I opened your HMF garden photos just to drool at the amazing potential reflected in your wealth of terrific photos. Among these, that Stranger is to die for, and I've had Roedean and Soutine on my wish list for years in response to your photos. I had both Mockingbird and Rembrandt van Ryn die on me in recent years, but I'm hoping another round I can get them to survive. Simsalabim is sadly beyond my zone's scope, I fear.

Here are some photos of my striped roses that add to those shown by other striped fans:

Alfred Sisely, one of the great Delbard painted roses - a surprisingly prolific bloomer

 photo AlfredSiselyBloomJune2013.jpg

Andre Willemse

 photo AndreWillemseBloomJune2013.jpg

Broceliande, from Eurodesert

 photo BroceliandeSprayJune2013.jpg

Stars 'n' Stripes, a very tall and prolific bush for me (5-6 feet and higher)

 photo StarsNStripesFRedBloomJun2013.jpg

Rockin' Robin

 photo RockinRobinBloomsJune2013.jpg


 photo PapagenoBloomJune2013.jpg

Oranges and Lemons - as Ann mentioned this one is a reliable bloomer and prolific for me. The blooms do fade to a more solid dark orange as they age

 photo OrangesnLemonsoldsprayJun2013.jpg

Berries 'n' Cream, a nice mannerly climber (striped rose breeders must love apostrophes...)

Berries 'n Cream June 2013 photo BerriesNCreamSprayJune2013.jpg

My beloved Edgar Degas, from Ashdown, easily one of my top 10 favorite roses. It's a semi double but it blooms its little heart out, and spreads out wider than it is tall. Mine is probably 3 feet tall by 5 feet wide, and is never out of bloom. I love the variability of the striping on the various blooms.

Edgar Degas Spray June 2013 photo EdgarDegasLGSprayJune2013.jpg

Fiesta - stays relatively short and lighter pink stripes

Fiesta June 2013 photo FiestaSprayJune2013.jpg

Here's Marylene, a rose that I thought was supposed to be consistently apricot, but it has put out several of these striped blooms. I don't think it's a sport, but we'll see. I'm certainly not complaining - sorry it's a bit blurry, though

 photo DSCN0162.jpg

I forgot if anyone else has posted a photo of Tenacious, but it has lived up to its name, although remaining short

 photo TenaciousBloomJune2013.jpg

Thanks for sharing all these wonderful photos of striped roses!



clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:30 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:30 am

RE: I love the striped ones! (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: beth on 07.15.2013 at 02:12 am in Roses Forum

The stripeys are some of my faves too.... (second only to the oddball colors.)

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clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:29 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:29 am

RE: I love the striped ones! (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: seil on 07.14.2013 at 03:34 pm in Roses Forum

Stripes are fun! I have several but I think I need more!

Candy Land
Candy Land photo 2013_06050003_zpsc7d1a550-1.jpg

Honorine de Brabant
Honorine de Brabant photo 2013_06060020_zps2066c347.jpg

Isolde Hit
Isolde Hit photo ih2013_06230047_zps87211f17.jpg

Red Intuition
Red Intuition photo 2013_07070044_zps07fee9d2-1.jpg

Stars n Stripes
Stars n Stripes photo sns2013_05290015_zps35384e51.jpg


clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:29 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:29 am

RE: Need Advice- Most Heat Tolerant OGR Class or Top Roses (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: Kippy-the-Hippy on 07.12.2013 at 12:26 pm in Antique Roses Forum

This is a west facing spot on top of a short retaining wall with a gravel walk and white house wall to reflect heat back. The soil is a mix of builders sand some one dumped probably for drainage decades ago and adobe clay that is heavy and sticks like mad-fyi clay+fine sand+straw=bricks. This bed is a bit over 2 years old and used to be an ignored corner of the yard over grown with bougusvilla-invasive plum tree roots-rats etc and was like trying to dig in a brick.

I have been very busy with other projects in the garden so the roses have to kind of help themselves. Yves got some horse manure over the winter, last fall some alfalfa pellets and then an application of very weak fish fertilizer in late spring. Due to the heat, I did not dead head but plan on doing that shortly.

I think there were 66 buds on Yves at one time. And I am totally looking forward to winter and trying to start some cuttings.


clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:25 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:25 am

RE: Need Advice- Most Heat Tolerant OGR Class or Top Roses (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.10.2013 at 11:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here's Liv Tyler taken yesterday, early in the morning, she gets morning shade, but gives me twice more blooms than Frederic Mistral. She has over 40+ buds. Other people mentioned that Liv Tyler repeats fast.

Every bloom of Liv Tyler is photogenic, even in last year 100's degree drought ... but I can't get a perfect bloom of Fred unless it's cold, rainy, plus horse manure.

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Wed, Jul 10, 13 at 23:37


clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:22 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:22 am

RE: Need Advice- Most Heat Tolerant OGR Class or Top Roses (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 07.09.2013 at 09:38 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Lynn: I'm pasting the tips that Ingrid in Thousand Oak, CA, sent to me regarding how her Yves Piaget is so loaded with blooms ... she posted the most beautiful Yves Piaget bloom ever, see link below.

Here's what she wrote: "We had heavy clay soil In Thousand Oaks, so I took out most of the soil and added a mix of potting soil, mulch, horse manure, and some gypsum. For fertilizers I used a combination of things like horse manure, Gro Power (organic), 16-16-16 time release, and occasionally some fish emulsion and seaweed extract. I understand that Yves Piaget is used by florists because of the beautiful blooms--and the nice strong fragrance doesn't hurt! I'm sure you'll enjoy it!"

Also Lynn, if you really love a rose, go for it, regardless of others' experiences. I thought Eglantyne was impossible for me, but I solved it ... I count 5 buds on it, pretty good for a tiny plant own-root ... same number of blooms as the rose park's huge plant (grafted on Dr. Huey).

Here is a link that might be useful: Picture of Yves Piaget from Ingrid (Thousand Oak)


clipped on: 07.19.2013 at 07:20 am    last updated on: 07.19.2013 at 07:20 am

RE: Roll Call of the Intrepid (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: bluegirl on 07.10.2013 at 03:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hmmm, well many look shockingly well, despite the horrid weather.

Guess the #1 standout would be Mme Antoine Mari. Planted her as a sturdy new ARE bush this spring & she has never had any disease, has kept a thick bush of green leaves & still has more blooms than I can be bothered to deadhead. The flowers are small but have good color & form despite the heat. Really, she doesn't look like a plant from my garden--more like one photographed in one of the rose gardens from the blessed land of CA.

Iceberg, Champney's, Mme Laurette Messime, Peach Belle, keep churning out blooms but they're a bit chlorotic & I don't feel like amending the problem right now--too dang hot to mess around outside.

Caldwell Pink aka Pink Pet--well, she always does so beautifully I neglect to even think about her. Have it in several spots, from big shrubs to little cuttings & they are all covered with blooms & healthy foliage. If only she were fragrant.

R. Moschata & Eglantine have very healthy foliage. Moschata keeps throwing flowers.

Several new plants stand out: bands that I planted in the ground early in the year. I'm keeping most in pots until fall & disbudding, as recommended, but several young plants in the ground have been real stand-outs:

William R. Smith--he's near 3' now, bushing out & wants to throw lots of blooms. I'm keeping most pinched, but the flowers I miss are large & very pretty.

Sunsprite--as good as I remembered it. BIG deep-yellow flowers, shiny leaves.

Pax--doing nicely under the Mexican Persimmon tree I want it to climb up. Very large flowers from such a young plant. Very white, like Iceberg's

Baronne Prevost--amazingly healthy leaves for a HP. He keeps throwing those over-stuffed fragrant flowers. I'm amazed they look so good in this heat. He is "reaching for the sky"--about 4' tall, but the canes are arching now & throwing some side branches.

Mousseaux du Japon--poor rose is so happy now. I dragged it up from the old place. Now that it's planted deep in full sun it has bushed out nicely.

Rene D'Anjou--had it long ago & reordered. Like Mousseaux, it does so much better in the full hot sun than it did when I had it in a pot in partial sun in the muggy south.

Comtesse de Rocquigney--never heard of it until Marissa at Greenmantle recommended it to me. Planted last year as a big Greenmantle plant. Nothing exciting about it until this year. It has bushed up & thrown lots of bouquets of sweet-scented flowers, regardless of the heat. Very healthy foliage.

Little White Pet from a spring band, now in a big pot, has been excellent here, too. Also Marie Pavie, Anne Marie de Montravaal.

Rosette Delizy, Souv. de la Malmaison, Mrs. Dudley--bought as chopped-roots, planted in wood-shavings from the grocery store this spring---doing very nicely in the ground. Good new canes, healthy foliage. The blooms I miss dis-budding have good size & color. Surprised how well these plants have done considering their condition as sold. These are all HEB plants, for those of you that have the store locally.

The recommendations I picked up here have worked very well. The roses I've put in the ground are planted deeper--at least a couple of inches deeper than they were in their pots & it seems to be very beneficial. Also, dis-budding, feeding "weakly, weekly" & amending with pine-fines--Thanks!


clipped on: 07.16.2013 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2013 at 09:21 pm

RE: Roll Call of the Intrepid (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: lori_elf on 07.09.2013 at 09:59 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Our weather here is the opposite of California -- unusual amount of rain and high humidity. Rampant growth and weeds are going wild too! Blackspot is most favorable, and I have a no-spray garden. I look for roses that still have at least half their leaves and keep blooming in spite of it all.

So my list includes Portland roses which repeat well -- Marchessa Bocella/Jacques Cartier, Rose de Resht, and Amanda Patternaude, some hybrid musks such as Ballerina, Darlow's Enigma, and Buff Beauty, and several Austins that never miss a beat -- Sharifa Asma, Teasing Georgia, William Shakespeare 2000, and Heritage.


clipped on: 07.16.2013 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2013 at 09:18 pm

RE: Growing Austin roses in containers in a Mediterranean climate (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: michaelg on 06.27.2013 at 01:46 pm in Antique Roses Forum

You can repot a potted rose at any time. It may want some temporary shade if the root ball breaks up.

The long-caned bourbons like Louise Odier are huge plants, not suitable for containers, and they are highly susceptible to disease. The dwarf tea-bourbons (mainly Souvenir de la Malmaison and its sports such as Kronprizessin Viktoria) can be kept to 3 x 3 feet and they are somewhat resistant to blackspot disease. They may get mildew during the cool months. They have beautiful, fragrant flowers and lots of them, if the plants are happy. They enjoy hot weather.

For Austins that don't get too big for normal pots, you could look at Munstead Wood, Prospero, Carding Mill, Pretty Jessica, The Prince, Tamora, Sharifa Asma, Scepter'd Isle, and Molineux.

We have a regular poster in N. Italy and an occasional poster from Sardinia.


clipped on: 06.28.2013 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2013 at 01:42 pm

RE: Growing Austin roses in containers in a Mediterranean climate (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dublinbay on 06.27.2013 at 11:21 am in Antique Roses Forum

I'm not experienced growing roses in containers, but I think some of the roses you listed are rather large for containers, and William Shakespeare (assuming you mean William Shakespeare 2000 and NOT the earlier William Shakespeare that it replaces) definitely would not be a good candidate for a container, in my opinion. Will 2000 is a rather awkward growing bush--likes to spread (awkwardly) in a horizontal direction. Some posters claim their Will 2000 spreads 6 ft wide--mine spreads at least 5 ft wide and looks like it is working on on 5.5 ft wide. The ends of those branches are often excessively heavy with heavy branching and blooming and need to be propped up with some kind of support.

If you want a smaller good Austin that blooms nearly the same shade as Will 2000, try Munstead Wood. It grows about 3x3 and I can imagine it in a container--and the blooms are GORGEOUS!

You can find out more info. about any of those roses at this very helpful site:

By the way, Louise Odier is not an Austin rose--although she is lovely.

My understanding is that a container rose can be planted almost any time--but if it is hot there, I'd rig up some kind of temporary shade for a newly planted rose--a lawn chair casting a shadow on it, if nothing else. I'd do that for a couple weeks or until the rose looks like it is really taking off in its new home.

Good luck.


This post was edited by dublinbay on Thu, Jun 27, 13 at 11:23


clipped on: 06.28.2013 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2013 at 01:41 pm

RE: Roses that love the heat (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: transplant_annie on 04.17.2006 at 11:52 pm in Southwestern Gardening Forum

I have a rose that I wish all other roses performed as well as. Honey Perfume, a floribunda, has unbelievable constitution and non-stop bloom. Even when you are slow to dead head, this hard working rose will still cover itself with flowers along side of the spent heads while it waits for you. I have had it for a little over a year and the silly thing almost didn't go dormant this past winter. Granted we had a very mild winter this year. But.. we had half a dozen snap freezes which is so much harder on the plants as they have no idea it's coming. I had only a few dead branches after all those freezes and even those were not dead all the way down. I live just outside of Austin so humidity is an issue for me and mildew can definitely be a problem. Honey perfume showed no signs of mildew, black spot or any other ugliness to speak of. What a charmer. After many sad looking roses, it was a joy to find such a gem for the nasty heat, high humidity AND to top it off, very little rain fall since early in 2005. So it had to depend on me to go out in the heat and water it. Poor thing still popped buds all over the place. It also gets almost no shade where it is planted. This rose has spurred me on with hope to find more gems with its constitution. Perhaps I can have a nice rose garden after all.


clipped on: 06.27.2013 at 07:29 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2013 at 07:29 pm

RE: Best Roses in Late Summer (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.25.2012 at 03:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

It's good to hear from you, Melissa - thank you for the info. on once-blooming that do better in hot sun than Teas and Chinas (not hardy in my zone 5a). I'm going to kill a florist-rose water-hog, Bridal Pink, that has an odd scent, with needle-thorns.

Thornless Nahema, which Camp and I both love, is worth the water, since it gives exquisite blooms with the most exhilirating perfume, better than Frederic Mistral, which blooms well in 90-100 degrees heat in my garden.

I check previous threads on roses that bloom well in hot and dry heat. I find that roses which last long in the vase, also stand up to dry heat. People mentioned: St. Patrick, Dame de Couer, Colette, Hot Cocoa, Belle Vichysoise, Angel Face, Frederic Mistral (Romantica), Dolly Parton, Honey Bouquet, Glowing Peace, Bewitched, Tinke, Julia Child, Honey Perfume, Francois Rabelais (Romantica), Bolero floridunda (Romantica), Rouge Royal (Romantica), Red Intuition, Crimson Bouquet, Veteran's Honor, Black Magic, Glowing Peace, Sheila's Perfume.

Many of the above last several days in the vase: Bewitched, St. Patrick, Honey Bouquet, Veteran's Honor, Francois Rabelais. I like the Romanticas since they smell really good in the heat, except for Francois Rabelais, which has no scent.

There's a difference between dry heat and humid heat. Both Sheila's perfume and Rouge Royal can take dry heat, but not humid heat. Sheila's Perfume get BS, and shuts down in humid heat as reported by Texans.


clipped on: 06.27.2013 at 07:28 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2013 at 07:28 pm

RE: Best Roses in Late Summer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 08.24.2012 at 07:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I second Camp (Suzy) love for my Nahema: the bloom is dainty pink, but the plant is tough. It didn't mind 40 miles mph, breaking out in blooms at 90-100 degrees weather, impeccable clean foliage. The bloom lasts long in a vase, 4 days if picked in bud form. The scent is awesome. I prefer its scent over Radio Times. Best of all, it's 95% thornless. I don't get heavy flush, but steady blooming, which I prefer. It was on sale during Roses Unlimited June sale for $8. Warning: this rose needs constant water to look good, and even more water to bloom, otherwise the leaves get curly.

My heaviest producer in hot weather is Bolero, a French Romantica. It loves the heat, the white blooms don't get scorched in the heat, and smell heavenly like waterlily. It consumes less water due to its compact size. The foliage is shiny and 100% healthy. For yellow I'll take Honey Bouquet, always blooming in the steep hill harden clay, hot sun at 100 degrees. I give it credit for blooming so much under harsh conditions, and it lasts longest in the vase, 5 days, with thick petals.

Kim Rupert's Lynnie is in no-water zone along with Knock-out and Flower-Carpet. Zero mildew on all of them, while the perennials are white during early summer drought. Lynnie has thick petals that stand up to the heat.


clipped on: 06.27.2013 at 07:26 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2013 at 07:26 pm

RE: Going to the UK..Garden suggestions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 06.26.2013 at 06:23 pm in Antique Roses Forum

If you can make it to Mottisfont, you must. I adore Montissfont. Sissinghurst: Yes! Hinton Ampner (near Winchester) is a garden designed by a lover of shrubs, including roses. Kiftsgate and Hidcote are right next to each other and in the Cotswolds, which is a beautiful place. If you are in London , yes the places you said, but there's an interesting rose garden in Hyde Park. You can take an easy and pleasant train ride to Hatfield House. On the Thames there is the Garden History Museum, small but interesting where Trandescant is buried. The Gardens of the Rose in Saint Albans is worth seeing. it goes on and on. All these places have lovely cafes. We are going next year when there will be an HRF convention in Winchester.


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RE: Your best roses that are intensely fragrant, please! (Follow-Up #58)

posted by: ameri2nal on 11.25.2007 at 02:47 am in Roses Forum

I grow over 150 varieties mainly for fragrance and my winners are:
My Strongest Red- Either Crimson Glory or Papa Meilland
My Strongest White- Pope John Paul 2 or Helena Renaissance
My Strongest light Pink- Either Sharifa Asma or Yolande D'Aragon
Strongest Dark Pink- Peter Mayle
My Strongest Orange- Sutters Gold
My Strongest Yellow- Lemon Spice (hands down.)
My Strongest Purple- Barbara Streisand or Intrigue
Strongest Pink Blend- Typhoo Tea or Double Delight
Strongest yellow Blend- Bel'aroma
Strongest Orange Blend- Fragrant Cloud
I've found that a some of the Gamble Winners aren't really that strong to my nose, ie Granada, Angel Face, Tiffany, while some like Mr Lincoln, Crimson Glory, Sutters Gold are mind blowingly strong. Is that a word?


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RE: Your best roses that are intensely fragrant, please! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: tenor_peggy on 08.25.2007 at 04:49 pm in Roses Forum

I have a lousy nose but I found/find these roses fragrant:

Double Delight
Royal Highness
Mr. Lincoln
Gold Medal
Angel Face
Abe Darby
Graham Thomas
Beauty Secret
Hot Tamale
Sweet Chariot
Mme. Hardy
Rosa gallica versicolor
Kognin von Danemark
Compt de Chambord
Reine des Violettes
Tipsy Imperial Concubine
Francis Dubreiul
Duchesse de Brabant
Eungene des Beauharnias
Sombriuel - the climber

If I can smell these, anybody can!


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RE: 2013 Rose Awards (from us) (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: rideauroselad on 06.24.2013 at 11:50 am in Roses Forum

I see this thread was started in late April in California. Well, April is just a little early to rate any roses up here in Canada. But this is it, the spring flush is happening in my garden now and the past few days have been a wonderful treat of new blooms and a lush garden entering its peak season. So here they are, some Eastern Canadian rose picks:

Treasure Trail - winner of the "best band ever imported", the "most vigorous own root band"; and the, "there's nothing else quite like this rose" awards

Treasure Trail photo DSCF0193_zps6fa27da1.jpg

Saint Cecilia; This bloom opened this morning and hands down wins the "most beautiful fragrance in the garden to date award". She also wins the "best shrub in my cold climate garden award"; and I think perhaps she also receives the "most perfect classic bloom award" this year"

Saint Cecilia photo DSCF0191_zpscfb90043.jpg

The Alexandra Rose gets the "most whimsical single bloom award', as well as "best single rose in the garden award"

Alexandra Rose photo DSCF0190_zpsbb87c5ed.jpg

Morden Sunrise gets the "cheerful and sunny blooms award"

Morden Sunrise photo DSCF0185_zps30de3873.jpg

Crown Princess Margareta gets the "wow factor and bloom'in fool award":

Crown Princess Margareta photo DSCF0192_zpsc561ae68.jpg

Kronprinsesse Mary Castle gets the "rare treasure that I can't afford to loose award". I don't think this rose is in commerce in North America anymore, a great pitty.

Kronprinsesse Mary Castle photo DSCF0186_zpsc0b6acec.jpg

Kronprinsesse Mary Castle photo DSCF0182_zps90685ca0.jpg

Munstead Wood gets the " I'm amazed, it lives up to the hype award";

Munstead Wood photo DSCF0196_zps45dc8274.jpg

And finally, all of my wonderful roses get the "you give me great joy award!!"

Summer Solstice Posies photo DSCF0197_zpsc7af0e05.jpg

What a great thread!! Thank you for starting it Harmony.

Cheers: RRL aka Rick


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RE: 2013 Rose Awards (from us) (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: prickles on 06.24.2013 at 01:27 am in Roses Forum

Yes, Young Lycidas gets less floppy with time, but still floppy I fear.

I picked three blooms off of him on Thurs and they are holding up beautifully still--the strong damask fragrance is deliciously sweet and fresh. As I am writing this right now I can still smell them (at 10: 26pm on my nightstand next to a hot pot of herbal tea) which helps the fragrance to waft. How long does YL last for you as a cut flower?


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RE: 2013 Rose Awards (from us) (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: Elizabethfaye on 06.23.2013 at 11:16 pm in Roses Forum

Best all around:Queen Nefertiti. It's so good, it"s the only rose I have two of.
Best Pink: Sweet Juliet. Beautiful shrub in the garden, constant blooms.
Best Fragrance: Munstead Wood. I can smell this rose if I'm 2 feet away. Also, has beautiful color if you give it lots of water.


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RE: 2013 Rose Awards (from us) (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: brittie on 05.01.2013 at 04:53 pm in Roses Forum

Most Diseased: SdlM

Bestest Smeller- Liv Tyler
liv tyler photo P11009812.jpg

Most Thripy- Moonstone & Sugar Moon
This isn't a bad picture of Moonstone
moonstone photo P11101982.jpg

First Bloomer- Easy Does It
Technically, several plants never stopped blooming, but the first picture I took of the new year was of this one, so she wins!
easy does it photo P10909212.jpg

Best Cool Weather Bloomer: Koko Loco
koko loco photo P10905692.jpg

Most Impressive New Rose: WWII Memorial
wwii memorial photo P11004022.jpg

Most Complimented: Cherry Parfait
cherry parfait photo P11003732.jpg

Favorite Accidental New Rose Purchase: I don't know what this is. It was supposed to be Liv Tyler, but it seems darker. Anywho, sure smells good.
 photo P11008052.jpg

Most Improved: Spiced Coffee
Last year it was a little stick of nothing, and this year it's 5 feet tall and bushy!
spiced coffee photo P11101352.jpg

Favorite Yellow: Eternal Flame
eternal flame photo P11101562.jpg


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RE: 2013 Rose Awards (from us) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 04.27.2013 at 06:09 pm in Roses Forum

Best Rose Overall: Belinda's Dream - huge flowers, no disease, nice-looking bush

Best Fragrance: Young Lycidas - deep, intense and luscious

Most Exciting Color: Rosette Delizy- strong and yet delicate shadings from yellow through gold, rust and mauve, almost impossible to describe

Personal Favorite: Potter and Moore, an older Austin - The flowers are deeply cupped, with many petals of beautiful pink shadings and the alluring appearance of an old rose


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A Winner & A Bummer

posted by: ratdogheads on 06.25.2013 at 04:24 pm in Roses Forum

Here are two of my 2013 newbies. First is a winner, Lavaglut! Patting myself on the back for this selection, two planted on either side of my front door. These blossoms are well over a week old, no sign of fading. 95 degrees for the past few days, peppered with T-Storms & highs winds. Laughs at the heat, shakes off the rain. Love it. Next pic is the Bummer...


clipped on: 06.25.2013 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2013 at 10:08 pm

Fragrant Cloud has surprised me.

posted by: growing_rene on 06.25.2013 at 10:06 am in Roses Forum

while I was expecting this one to be fragrant, I wasn't expecting it to be so pretty. This is nice surprise. :)

Now, I just need to get rid of this horrible bs that I brought in. It travels quite freely. :(


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Edmond Proust & a strange Jacques Cartier

posted by: altorama on 06.23.2013 at 11:16 pm in Antique Roses Forum

This may be my favorite rambler, Edmond Proust

Fj photo 187237E8_zps9200d42f.jpg

Jacques Cartier cluster. Haven't noticed that on this plant.

Jacques Cartier photo 0F0244E0_zps126984f9.jpg

Jacques Cartier photo 11838B72_zpsbc5de9c5.jpg


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: PortlandMysteryRose on 06.25.2013 at 03:19 am in Antique Roses Forum

These are deep and abiding loves:
(1) Tuscany Superb
(2) Echoing Melissa--Comte de Chambord/Madame Boll
(3) The Prince

All fragrant. The Prince and Comte are VERY fragrant. Tuscany Superb and The Prince are deep, dark, mysterious, velvet purple yummies that my eyes can drink for hours. Comte boasts classic, fluffy old rose pink flowers on a shapely, manageable well-shaped shrub. Charm on a stem. All the above are very disease resistant in my garden.

I know. The Prince is an Austin not an OGR. No disloyalty intended. Also, I don't know why The Prince doesn't blackspot up the whazoo, but knock on wood....



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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: luxrosa on 06.24.2013 at 06:52 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Number 1 =White 'Rose of York' for
-large milky white blossoms, with a spangle of gold stamens in the center that give forth an exquisite though light, perfume.
- and gorgeous foliage, called by one author "luxerious" the leaves are more blue than green towards the base.
-and hip-hep-hooray! golden-orange to red flagon shaped hips in the Autumn
-beautiful roses, gorgeous leaves, well foliaged, low care.
The perfect rose.
I showed it to my neighbor Connie after it had bloomed, in summer and she said in impressed amazement "That's a rosebush?!!!" she was familiar only with H.T.s and florries.

Number 1 of remontant roses=Mme. Berkeley' my favorite of the Old Garden Teas, perfect blooms of a combination of pink, salmon and a bit of yellow blended in. Very disease resistant here where conditions favor p.m., over b.s. the dark green foliage is attractive too.
runner ups
Marachal Niel, my favorite yellow Tea-Noisette.
Longest loved: Mlle. Cecille Brunner, It has been grown in my family for 7 decades, my grandmother and mother grew it in Seattle, and now I have the original, spray version and climbing form in my garden near San Francisco.
Westside Road Cream Tea' favorite remontant white rose, fragrant, floriferous, evergreen-everblooming. I thank Fortuna that Phillip Robinson found this rose in north california and propagated it and brought it into commerce.
R. odorata for a wild rose is my number one favorite followed by R. californica, R. ayreshire for wild roses,
I must be the only person in the world who is not a fan of Belindas Dream my neighbor offered me her mature plant and I turned it down for it's overly heavy blooms appear vulgar to me, ( I collect Tea roses for their "exquisite delicacy" of bloom) nice scent though. I apologize beforehand and hope I don't hurt anyone's feelings, by stating my opinion.



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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: organic_kitten on 06.24.2013 at 06:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here in Alabama, with a climate very different than yours, Ingrid, my perfect rose is the same. SDLM blooms almost constantly, little disease, is a beautiful bloom and I love the fragrance. The runner ups? Belinda's Dream and Abe Darby. both of them bloom so much in hot humid weather. Admittedly, Abe's bloom s my favorite, today anyway.


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 06.24.2013 at 09:42 am in Antique Roses Forum

I make my buy-list in advance for 2014 ... Pat Henry of Roses Unlimited informed me that it's best for order early, Austins & Romanticas are sold out fast. She bills in January for 2014 orders.

Great thread, Ingrid, ...Belinda's Dream is most mentioned, then SDLM. I agree with Melissa in Italy that Comte de Chambord has an unmatched scent, I want a second one, but Burlington Roses was sold out.

Other roses people mentioned: Le Vesuve Mme. Antoine Mari, Jean Bach Sisley, Charles Lefebvre, Mme Abel Chatenay, Chloris (thornless), Gruss an Teplitz (I love this scent too!), Clementina Carbonieri, Comtess de Caya, Comtesse de Rocquiny, Duchess de Montebello (thornless), Seil's Pinocchio & Golden Cel., Nacogdoches (yellow). Camp's R.MOYESII, Harmonyp's Stainless Steel, Alchemyst, L. of Shallot., Mystic Beauty, Evelyn, Marie Bugnet, Belle Amour and Excellenz von Shubert (great scent & thornless), Lyda rose (partial shade), 'Anna Olivier', 'Mme. Antoine Mari', floribunda Bambi, Wolley Dod, Camp's favorite AYRESHIRE SPLENDENS, Harison's Yellow, Yolande D'Aragon, for her scent, and Miss Edith Cavell (also Burling's fav.), MUTABILIS, Don Juan, Aloha, Jaqcues Cartier, Martha Gonzales, R Rugosa Alba and Boule de Neige (Tammy's), Tamora, Star of the Nile, Marie Van Houtte, Marianne, Phyllis Bide, Mme. Dore (very small), Double Delight (great at rose park zone 5a, too young to tell in my garden).

Most perfect roses in my zone 5a: Annie L. McDowell (always clean), Firefighter (almost thornless), Bolero, Golden Celebration, Francis Blaise, Evelyn, Sweet Promise (almost thornless). I like Comte de Chambord's scent the most, but it's weak grower.

I found a great link for roses in CA, Jeri Jennings contributed to the list of Fragrant Roses for Santa Barbara. Below is Firefighter, after the deer ate some of the leaves. We successfully blocked the deer with posts and strings at the entrance to the garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Most Fragrant Roses by Santa Barbara Rose Society

This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Mon, Jun 24, 13 at 10:29


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: barbarag_happy on 06.23.2012 at 12:03 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Today I'd have to say-- to my surprise-- an Austin rose, Tamora. Last season in a pot and this season in the ground, she is always covered with pretty pale apricot blooms. Tamora is a nice small rounded shrub and blooms are nicely distributed all over.


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: lisanti07028 on 06.16.2012 at 10:47 am in Antique Roses Forum

I think that the one that brings me the most happiness is Harison's Yellow - it's the first to bloom, and while it isn't the most fragrant rose, when the bush is covered with flowers, I can smell it across the yard. I especially love the contrast of the delicate flowers with the skin-ripping thorns - it cracks me up.
For my other two, I chose Yolande D'Aragon, for her scent, and Miss Edith Cavell, for her bountiful scarlet blooms.


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: melissa_thefarm on 06.15.2012 at 11:36 pm in Antique Roses Forum

There isn't one. They're all too beautiful and not one of them is faultless. A sort of winner by default is 'Comte de Chambord'/'Mme. Boll'. It has a true old rose character but is healthy and reblooming, compact, has beautiful blooms and wonderful scent, and never gets discouraged.


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: karenleigh on 06.15.2012 at 07:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I haven't been here in forever, but I want to join in! My best rose is Clementina Carbonieri, beautiful blooms, great fragrance and disease-free. Runners up are Mrs. BR Cant and Perle d'Or.


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sherryocala on 06.15.2012 at 07:06 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Best in garden is Mme Abel Chatenay. Second place goes to Clotilde Soupert, and third place would be either Quietness or Souv de la Malmaison since SDLM is having a bad year.

I'm glad I have Rhodologue Jules Gravereaux coming, and I may have to bring back Belinda's Dream.


Here is a link that might be useful: If only sweat were irrigation...


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RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: catspa on 06.15.2012 at 04:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

For me, Mme. Antoine Mari. Hands down, most and best bloom -- frequency, quantity, color, and quality -- of any tea in the garden, on a nice-looking (if rather large) shrub. Runner-ups would be Mme. Alfred Carriere (only because she is so rambunctious) and Rhodologue Jules Gravereaux.


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RE: Cramoisi Superieur size and disease resistance (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: JMangum on 06.25.2013 at 10:10 am in Antique Roses Forum

In middle GA (95 miles south of ATL) my Cramoisi Sup is about 4ft. tall and about 3.5 ft. wide (5 yrs old). My Climbing C is my favorite (3rd season now) and is about 14-16 ft. The blooms on my climber seem to be a little larger than the shrub.


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RE: Your best roses that are intensely fragrant, please! (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: cactus_joe on 10.11.2007 at 02:09 am in Roses Forum


You will have surely noticed by now that the list is rather long. And if you are already growing roses, you might wonder why some of the varieties that are listed have any claim to fragrance, whereas, from your own experience, they are nothing to write home about. The truth is that many different factors contribute to fragrance as experienced by any individual. These factors include your olfactory cells's sensitivity or insensitivity to certain smells - after all the experience of a scent is triggered by chemicals firing off specific receptors. If you have more of certain types of receptors and less of the others, some fragrance may seem strong to you but weak to others. This might explain why some people cannot appreciate the classive "myrrh" scent. It also depends on the climatic and growth conditions of the rose. An Evelyn that we grow in our courtyard is intensely fragrant, whereas the same rose propagated from a cutting, growing in the front yard, is disappointing unless I stick my nose close to the blooms.

Your best evaluation of what constitutes the best chance of giving a good fragrance is to figure out which roses are the ones that are consistently mentioned amongst posters. Whenever this subject comes up, a few names come up on many posters' lists - Frederic Mistral, Jude the Obscure, Fragrant Cloud, to name a few. Those would be the names I would take note of.

For our garden, the following are the most fragrant, in order of strengths (how strong the scent is, how pleasing it is, how long it persistes for and how far it is broadcast in the garden):

1. Frederic Mistral (large, disease resistant, good bloomer but a late starter, balls in prolonged heavy rain)
2. Eglantyne (great flush in spring, beautiful at that time with clean foliage, but balck spot magnet, totally defoliated by late July - it has earned it's keep in the garden, however, just for it's fragrance and reain resistant flowers)
3. Mdm Isaac Pereire - (I have only had this one for one year, but I can already understand why some people would claim that it is the most fragrant rose in the world. Flowers hold up well in the rain.)
4. Evelyn - it's fragrance is simply heavenly to my nose and really permits the whole courtyard. Does not bloom well for some, but continuous bloomer for us. Petals spot with the rain, and the fragrance is not appreciable after rainfall - it needs warm sunny weather to smell it's best. Some black spot but tolerable)
5. Jude the Obscure - very fragrance, so-so for rebloom. But balls badly in the wet weather. Clean foliage and black spot resistant. Canes have weak joints that tend to split away from the main canes - so be prepared to do some staking.
6. Peter Mayle - gorgeous huge blooms on a moderately black spot prone bush. I grow this one for the appearance of the blooms, but the fragrance is intense especially if you bring them indoors as cut flowers. This is one of those roses which one feels guilty about leaving the blooms out in the rain - its flowers tend to land in our flower vase more than it shines on the bush in the garden.

Another favourite of ours is the massive climber, Mdm Alfred Carrier. Indvidual flowers are fragrant within 6 inches of the bloom, but when it flowers en masse in late spring, the collective fragrance of the masses of flowers cast a beguiling scent throughout the garden. If you are comtemplating this rose, make sure you have the room for it!


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RE: Your best roses that are intensely fragrant, please! (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: luxrosa on 08.28.2007 at 07:06 pm in Roses Forum

I think of a trio of super-fragrant red roses as "The three brothers" because each one was bred from the same parents
"Chysler Imperial" X "Charles Mallerin"
They are
1. "Papa Meilland" 1963, bred in France by the Meilland family.
2. "Mr. Lincoln" and 3. "Oklahoma" both bred by Swim, and released to commmerce in 1964.
Papa Meilland is my favorite for its depth of fragrance, that I find more penetrating than the other two. The blooms are sometimes edged with purple in late Autumn, as the weather cools, but the days are filled with sunshine, here in Northern California.

"Francis Dubreuil" has the same deep rich Damask type scent of the three roses above, but is more floriferous and a smaller plant, here it reaches 3 and 1/3 feet tall.
It is believed that it may be the cultivar "Barcelona" which is a Hybrid Tea, which would make it more cold hardy.

My favorite fragrant pink roses, are found among the Old Garden Roses:
1. "Comte de Chambord" Mr. Austin used this rose to breed Gertrude Jekyll, and G.J. inherited its' scent. I find that "Comte de Chambord" is just as fragrant, healthier, and more floriferous.
2. "Grandmothers' Hat"

White roses
Love the Noisettes, their fragrance is of clove and rose, and very intense.
"Nastarana" is my favorite, I can detect its scent from 12 feet away.

"Ebb Tide" for modern roses. Such a beauty.


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My new Pomponella blooms--finally!

posted by: dublinbay on 06.14.2013 at 12:49 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Admittedly, it was the last new rose to be planted this year, but my patience has been wearing thin waiting for Pomponella to get on with the show.

Finally, here she is, small, healthy, lots of buds, and beginning to bloom: Pomponella . Isn't she a sweetie!

Here's the whole bush--still small. Don't know how large she will get--evidently quite large in some regions, but the official catalogues list her as much smaller.

And a final view of one of her (small) pompom clusters. They are adorable!

Think I'm going to really like this one.



clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 03:06 pm

My new roses in bloom--Wedgewood et al

posted by: dublinbay on 06.07.2013 at 01:06 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I tried adding "updates" to my previous thread, but they seem to have been largely ignored : ( so I'm putting these last ones in a new thread. My apologies if one or two are repeats. Most of these were taken yesterday and today.

All my new roses are blooming--except Pompenella! But she has lots and lots of buds, so I guess we'll just have to wait for when she decides to bloom.

Wedgewood Cl. (Austin)--just opened this morning. Kind of a limp cane and bloom--but it has been raining all week and this is her first set of blooms. I think she looks quite promising.

Here is Berolina fully opened. You'll remember I showed some earlier bud and half-open pics before--I have included them below so you can watch the progression (in reverse?) LOL

Here is Berolina three quarters open.

Here is Berolina just beginning to open its first bloom.

The lovely Scepter'd Isle--first bloom. Bush is about 3 ft tall now. Can't wait to see her 5 ft tall and covered with those delicate blooms.

And lastly, my most colorful beauty: Munstead Wood--her first four blooms.

Now if everyone would shout words of encouragement to Pompenella to bloom, I'd know what all my new roses look like. So far, I like what I'm seeing!



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RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #53)

posted by: Kippy-the-Hippy on 05.22.2013 at 11:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I am more and more impressed with Lady of Megginch. The last BIG spray lasted on the bush a good week. Probably not super fresh up close, but impressive from the yard.

My little Janet is surprising me too.

And James Galoway has put up a thick cane to moms bedroom window full of sprays and buds. (considering her window is a good 6 feet off the ground and James has been in the ground less than a year...I am happy)


clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:36 pm

RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 04.02.2011 at 08:46 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Harlow Carr bloomed almost immediately for me the first year and was even better the second year. Unfortunately, it couldn't tolerate the heat but lookswise it would be one of my favorites. Another one which does well here in afternoon shade and is beautiful and fragrant is Sister Elizabeth, a very undervalued rose. Smaller bush and beautiful lilac pink, old-rose blooms. Wife of Bath and Charles Darwin are also favorites. I also love Cottage Garden although I can detect no fragrance on my two bushes. It tolerates the heat quite well. My most fragrant Austin was Abraham Darby which didn't like the heat and is gone. Carding Mill is excellent in the heat and beautiful. Bishop Darlington is a gorgeous rose, lilac pink and very fragrant. I love Sophy's rose for the lilac color and shape of the flowers but it has no scent. Good in the heat so I'll keep her. Almost all of mine are own-root. Supposedly the bushes stay smaller that way while actually blooming more.



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RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 05.14.2010 at 09:24 am in Antique Roses Forum

You've gotten alot of answers. What more can I add? Chateau Frontenac. I think it is not an Austin but comes from Austins. It smells likie cherries to me. I think Gertrude J. has the best smell. Sceptred Isle is a fabulous rose. I don't think there is anything more healthy, vigorous or freeblooming(though in flushes) here in my garden. Another Austin that is not an Austin is Louise Clements. I just think it is one of the world's prettiest roses with a decent scent as well.


clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:32 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:32 pm

RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: holleygarden on 05.13.2010 at 11:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I went to a 'rose talk' being given by the David Austin company, and the presenter passed around blooms for us to smell, telling us what the scent was (fruit, musk, myrrh, tea). I ended up buying Heritage, (which does smell good), but Lady Emma Hamilton was, by far, my favorite scent. Very citrus fruit scent - yummm. Don't know why I didn't get her that day. I'm going to get her next. :)

I think scents are very individual. My sense of smell is not strong, so a rose that has a good scent to me is highly prized and a delight.


clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:30 pm

RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: brother_cadfael on 05.13.2010 at 05:51 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lavender Lass,

I've been collecting Austin's for almost 10 years now, so trust me me when I say that for YOUR zone 4 you need to focus on hardiness or you will be very disappointed in the Austin's...:)

Both of these are hardy to the tips for me in Z5 Wisconsin and they are very, very fragrant:
'Lilac Rose'
'St. Swithun'

These are a little less hardy, but worth the try for your Z4:
'Brother of Cadfael' my favorite rose for scent and beauty
'Sharifa Asma'
'Mayor of Casterbridge'

For your warmer zone friends some good stinky ones are:
Anything listed above, except that 'Brother Cadfael' should have morning sun only or dappled sun all day, as the flowers will crisp in the sun.
'Pat Austin' - a unique warm woody rose scent
'Scepter'd Isle'
'The Prince'
'Gertrude Jekyll'
'Graham Thomas'
'Golden Celebration'
'Jude The Obscure'
'Fair Bianca'
'Ambridge Rose'
'Lady Emma Hamilton'
'The Generous Gardener' (heavenly scent)
'William Shakespeare 2000'
'Spirit of Freedom'
'The Shepherdess'
'The Ingenious Mr. Fairchild'
'St. Cecelia'
'Carding Mill'
'Jubilee Celebration'
'Abraham Darby'



clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:29 pm

RE: Favorite David Austin fragrance and visual appeal (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: le_jardin_of_roses on 05.13.2010 at 01:15 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Lavender_lass, we are in different zones, but for what it's worth, most of the ones I'm mentioning here are supposed to do well in your zone.


Brother Cadfael is tall here, but maybe shorter for you. It has sensuous cabbage blooms that have a good fragrance. So pink too.


The Prince. All Purple and fragrant.


Everyone knows about Abe Darby. Very pretty flowers and very fragrant.


Now, I don't know how Golden Celebration will do in WA, but in CA, it is wonderful.


Pat Austin is easy and has an elegant nodding habit, but I would put her in morning sun only. Her blooms are delicate to too much heat.



clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:28 pm

RE: Spice Revisited (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: luxrosa on 06.10.2013 at 05:19 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I bought a Reine d' Anjou' from last year and was greatly disappointed, the blooms were very small, pink and common, like a messy Mlle. Cecille Brunner, and I have C.B. in original, Spray, and Climbing forms.
Then Holy Moley Guacamole! Reine d' Anjou turned from being a wallflower to the queen of the garden this year, large sumptuous rich pink and lilac roses in profusion, elegant and deeply cupped with petals arranged perfectly, with a long bloom cycle from plenty of side buds. The light perfume drifts above the plant and I am in love with it forever. The queen of anjou, just needed a year and better amendments to show off her glorious self.

I am glad I didn't move her to "siberia' where I would rarely see her.

My neighbor doesn't like her 'Spice;' much, but it does serve as an excellent background plant, because of nearly constant bloom, to show off a darker blooming, and smaller rosebush in front of it.



clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 08:21 pm

RE: polyantha pictures for a small program (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: harborrose on 06.05.2013 at 07:51 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Renee, I love this thread too.

Thanks for telling me about Aunt Margy's balling for you, Ingrid. It would probably be terrible here, but it is gorgeous for you.

Jeri, thanks for your 'Baptiste LaFaye.' I really love BF too and find that mine often shows as a purple, much like 'Lauren' does here.I plan to take it to show at the little program, hoping it will catch the eye of some of the people there.

Here's a bloom stalk from mine, last year. The bush, at three years, is about 4 feet high and has a lovely rounded form. Lucky you, Ingrid, two of them!

Baptiste LaFaye

This post was edited by harborrose on Thu, Jun 6, 13 at 0:37


clipped on: 06.13.2013 at 04:34 pm    last updated on: 06.13.2013 at 04:34 pm

RE: polyantha pictures for a small program (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 06.04.2013 at 12:06 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Gean - here is a pic of Cl Cecile Brunner climbing up my house, which I took about 2 weeks ago. I planted it about 20 years ago.



clipped on: 06.13.2013 at 04:33 pm    last updated on: 06.13.2013 at 04:33 pm

A few more blooms

posted by: beth on 06.01.2013 at 01:51 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Here's my latest bloomers....

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PARFUM DE GRASSE - new one from Palatine
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clipped on: 06.12.2013 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2013 at 08:51 pm

Half a ton of photos!

posted by: the_dark_lady on 05.30.2013 at 02:53 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

After posting quite a few garden shots, I decided to show you some of the close-ups. Please enjoy!

Perennial Blue - outstanding rambler! Sweet fragrance, huge clusters of blooms! Yummy.
 photo DSC_47781024x680.jpg

Perennial Blue photo DSC_47741024x680.jpg

A European 'novelty' - Art Nouveau - very ornate
Art Nouveau photo DSC_47291024x680.jpg

A fragment of a larger flower bed - you can see Three Weddings, Frau Eva Schubert, Rush and Purple Skyliner
 photo DSC_47201024x641.jpg

Stunning Ferdy! Literally, you can not see the leaves! And, it does rebloom in the fall
Ferdy photo DSC_47141024x680.jpg

Ferdy photo DSC_47111024x663.jpg

Delicate beauty of Astronomia
Astronomia photo DSC_47071024x692.jpg

Ghislaine de Feligonde which is trying to eat an oak tree :)
Ghislaine de Feligonde photo DSC_4703698x1024.jpg

Ghislaine de Feligonde photo DSC_4699680x1024.jpg

My beloved Baltimore Belle!
Baltimore Belle photo DSC_46791024x665.jpg

Baltimore Belle photo DSC_46761024x680.jpg

Rosanna, one of the top-performing climbers
 photo DSC_46601024x674.jpg

Rosanna photo DSC_44921024x702.jpg

A repeat-blooming sister of Raubritter - Angela
Angela photo DSC_46491024x680.jpg

Paul Barden's Allegra
Allegra photo DSC_46431024x691.jpg

Almost missed my Alchymist, it was almost done blooming. Finally, after six years of growing it, I built a nice trellis for it. I hope next spring it will really show off!
Alchymist photo DSC_46301024x714.jpg

Alchymist photo DSC_46201024x705.jpg

Alchymist photo DSC_4616680x1024.jpg

Neat, almost perfect flowers of Austin's Lady Salisbury
Lady Salisbury photo DSC_4609680x1024.jpg

Star of the Republic is simply stunning this year
Star of the Republic photo DSC_46001024x680.jpg

Geschwind's Shoenste paired with Lamb's Ears
Geschwind's Schoenste photo DSC_45291024x680.jpg

Breathtaking bloom of Leda
Leda photo DSC_45131024x718.jpg

My Pomponella 'on steroids' :)
Pomponella photo DSC_44761024x680.jpg

Yummy colors of Star of the Nile
Star of the Nile photo DSC_44441024x710.jpg

Oh my! I have so many more, but it's time to stop for now :)
Once again, thank you for looking!


clipped on: 06.12.2013 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2013 at 08:50 pm

for Rosefolly re Crimson Glory

posted by: jacqueline3 on 06.10.2013 at 02:58 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Rosefolly - I sent you an email, but did not get a response. Perhaps you are out of town. Anyway, just wanted to let you know that the rose I have in a pot which I thought might be a rooted cutting of my Crimson Glory has bloomed, and it is definitely that rose. It has three canes, two of which are trying to climb already (one is 6 ft long), so it really needs to go into the ground. Pls email me re when you would like to come and pick it up. Here is a picture of the latest bloom on my original plant:


clipped on: 06.12.2013 at 07:25 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2013 at 07:25 pm

For gwTamara: Old Garden Rose Photos from Members

posted by: fogrose on 06.05.2013 at 10:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

There's a thread going now "Forum Picture"
Posted by bellegallica_zone9

where some of us are grumbling at the new photo at the top right of the rose forum home page. It's an Austin NOT an antique rose.

Tamara from Garden Web posted this:

"Posted by gwTamara 10 (My Page) on Wed, Jun 5, 13 at 21:45
Hi folks,
Just thought I'd stop in and explain about the photo. As you know, we've been updating the forums over the last few months. Part of the 'facelift' has been to replace some of the clipart in the headers. While I understand that sometimes change can be difficult, it's not a bad idea to sport a fresh look. No one paid us to showcase that photo. It actually belongs to Sidos_House, one of the members on this forum. She did not ask to have it placed there, but I thought it was a lovely picture and asked her if she would mind if we used it.

What we want to do is to rotate pictures in this spot and eventually have a way that you can vote for the ones that you would like to see there. We don't currently have that functionality, but hope to have it soon. In the meantime, if someone would like to start a thread and post photos that you would like to see in this spot, I'll happily swap them out occasionally.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me.



So I'm posting some of my favorite antique rose photos and encourage you to do the same.

I give GW permission to use any of mine.


Old Town Novato

Old Town Novato photo oldtownnovato.jpg

Madame Boll

Madame Boll photo madameboll.jpg

Belle Amour

Belle Amour photo belle_amour2.jpg


Sydonie photo sydonie.jpg


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 11:48 pm

Mixed Bag Two

posted by: labrea on 06.05.2013 at 11:19 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A small Portland that blows rather quickly but is a beauty if you catch it right as it opens for the magenta pink picote that often appears.
Marie de St Jean I've had it 8 years and it has stayed about 2 feet.

Madame Hardy Flopped in the heavy rains.

Either in the mud or just bending from the nights previous rains I cut these last week.
Leonies Appoline, Munstead wood. & Madame Wagram.

Last of the Peonies Munstead Wood & Leonie's Appoline

This Giant Rosa Laxa was not Pruned last year and was easily 13 feet tall.

Uploaded with

and a Modern
Dame de Chenonceau

Madame Joseph Bonnaire I bought this a few years ago & still don't have a firm opinion of it other than it doesn't repeat that well for me.

Rare that I will buy a 2nd copy of a rose the space I have is so small but I was so impressed with Munstead Wood right off the bat I ordered a 2nd a true gem & great fragrance


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 11:48 pm

And the Biggest Showoff is....

posted by: the_bustopher on 06.04.2013 at 05:14 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I have a few that got to be rather flamboyant this spring, in spite of our weather which included snow on May 2 followed by temps in the 90s two days later. It has also decided to rain here this year, unlike last year. I actually even got to prune most of my plants. Here are some of the results with the ones I thought were the biggest showoffs. Please vote for which of these is the most flamboyant showoff. The first of the entries is the hybrid perpetual Fisher Holmes which is usually among the first to bloom and the last to quit.

Fisher Holmes-3 photo FisherHolmes-3_zpsd1ec7404.jpg

The next one is the Meilland Romantica climber Polka. I always have plenty of dead wood to cut off of it, but it comes out beautifully with a healthy amount of flowers all season.

Polka-3 photo Polka-3_zps15a427e6.jpg

The next one is the old stand-by floribunda which is very common, Iceberg.

Iceberg-3 photo Iceberg-3-1_zps5b3a59e6.jpg

The last one is the Austin shrub, Lady of Shalott. This is its 3d year, and it must be true what they say about roses with the first year sleep, second year creep, third year leap because she is looking quite good this year. It blooms well all summer and takes the heat better than the other orange Austins.

Lady of Shalott-4 photo LadyofShalott-4_zpsfdd380e9.jpg

Please vote for who you think is the biggest showoff of these four for this year so far. Thanks.


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 09:22 pm

RE: More Ramblers (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 06.04.2013 at 06:35 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Conduit is like piping. It is what people run wiring through. I think you could also use plastic pipe for the job. It's probably easier to cut. I think we use something like 2 foot lengths and there's perhaps 6 inches above the ground. I just use something like baling wire for the wiring. Galvanized or steel wire is more expensive but would last longer. I would also add that you needn't worry about absolute perfection as the roses should cover everything eventually.


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 09:00 pm

RE: More Ramblers (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 06.04.2013 at 08:21 am in Antique Roses Forum

No, it's 3/4 inch for more strength. Also I forgot to add that the rods go in on say the left conduit on one side and the right on the other so they are crossing.


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 08:58 pm

RE: More Ramblers (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 06.03.2013 at 07:08 pm in Antique Roses Forum

About the rebar arches. I got the idea from the Sacramento Cemetery Rose garden. You need two lengths of rebar and four pieces of something like conduit. We pound the conduit into the ground first. My husband and I work as a team. I stand in the middle of a rebar while he bends it. Then I put one end into the conduit and he bends some more and puts the other end into the conduit across the path. We repeat the process with another length running one over the other and then wire them at the top. I then attach wire for the roses to climb on in kind of a Jacob's Ladder way. This photo show the tops of them without roses.


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 08:58 pm

RE: How do you grow a climber on a brick/stone wall? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 06.05.2013 at 12:34 pm in Roses Forum

My DH used the screw eyes and wire idea to let this Mme Caroline Testout climb up our chimney 5 years ago. Has not caused any problems, and a white clematis and the nearby Belle Portugaise have voluntarily joined the MCT - I think they like the warmth from the bricks.



clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 04:18 pm

RE: How do you grow a climber on a brick/stone wall? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: hoovb on 06.05.2013 at 11:10 am in Roses Forum

If you go the wire route, and you want it to look as neat and tidy as possible use turnbuckles to tighten the wires so they are perfectly straight. Looks so much better and more professional that way.


clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 04:18 pm

RE: How do you grow a climber on a brick/stone wall? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: elks on 06.05.2013 at 06:39 am in Roses Forum

6" eye screws into anchor bolts set in holes I drilled with a masonary bit every 12' across and 1' up, strung with clothes line wire, are what support my The New Dawn and have for the last 10 or 12 years.



clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 04:18 pm

RE: Long Rugosa branch: prune or not (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Thorntorn on 04.28.2013 at 12:42 am in Roses Forum

Roseraie de l'Haye is my favorite large (bush and flower), hybrid rugosa. I have grown it as a climber on a 4 ft. fence where it spread 5+ feet in each direction from the crown. Tip to tip it easily covering 10-12 feet of the fence. This means that some of the canes were 10+ feet long measured from the crown to the cane tip, following its curve as it lie tied to the fence. My RDLH would make 1 -2 new 10+ basal canes a year, until at about age 6 it slowed down with the basal canes, evidently reaching its mature size. Every couple years the oldest basal cane is removed as close to the crown as possible. These old basal canes begin to slow down in producing flowers. Always maintain at least 6 thick basal canes. This makes for a mature full bush. You already have your first one. It will be the first to be pruned out 6 or so years from now.

The canes of RDLH are a bit stiffer than most climber's canes so it needs a bit or 'man handling' to get it tied down properly if it is to be grown as a climber, and the super abundance of thorns are not easy to overlook, but for disease resistance, rich flower color and size, and powerful fragrance this rose possesses cannot be beat.

As a free standing shrub it should be let to grow as it wants to, canes arching in all directions, only pruned very, very lightly just to aid in it balancing itself, or to remove dead wood. It will develop a somewhat arching form in time, but not like say to the extent that a forsythia bush arches and cascades

Looking at your photo:.

The older branches on your RDLH are characteristic of growth given by young bushes. Its first 'grown up' cane is the one your inquiry is about. As RDLH matures expect most growth to be long canes like this first one emerging from the crown, pointing in time, in all directions as the bush fills in. It will also grow with many flowering (lateral) canes considerably shorter in growth emerging from along the length of these basal canes. They fill in the bush, giving it substance, while the basal canes give the bush its structure.

Hope you like RDLH as much as I do.


clipped on: 05.07.2013 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2013 at 05:50 pm

RE: tea roses in North Georgia? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: anntn6b on 04.24.2012 at 10:22 am in Antique Roses Forum

I am north of you and at an elevation of 1100'. Unless you are in a frost hollow in north Georgia, my gardens are probably at least half a zone colder than yours.

I've grown tea roses for over a decade. With success.

Forget what you learned about hybrid teas; they really aren't all that closely related. Treat teas as woody shrubs that you allow to build on growth year after year. Fertilize spring and early summer; don't fertilize fall because many winters you'll loose that growth in January or early February. That growth will come (anyway) but you don't want to diret it.

Water the tea roses; they like that.

You don't have to grow them up against a warm wall; they are happy here as long as they aren't in shade.

(Then look to chinas for hotter spots with major drainage and to noisettes for cluster blooming masses.)


clipped on: 05.02.2013 at 09:01 pm    last updated on: 05.02.2013 at 09:01 pm

RE: I bought Mermaid....HELP! Kim? Jeri???? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: campanula on 04.16.2013 at 04:57 am in Antique Roses Forum

Don't be scared, Susan, this is eminently do-able. There is a huge (aren't they always) Mermaid at my sons housing co-op which covers the whole wall up to 7m high and as much wide.
Firstly, the wire - do not skimp on this - get galvanised steel, 3-5 ply. Single strand wire will break under the weight of the canes. Make sure the wires are taut by using tension bearers/ straining wires (I dunno what you call them in the states, but your hardware shop will know - they enable you to tighten the wires once they are in place and allow for later sagging).
Vine eyes - these are what the wire passes through and must be placed every 4-6feet - try to get the 6inch ones and get at least half of that in the concrete -You will need a good masonry drill with plenty of torque and punch, on hammer setting. Hold the vine eyes in place with rawl plugs.
Start the first row of wires about 18inches from the floor and space them every 18inches up to the top (Yeah, I know, there is no way you are going to disguise this from your dad......but spend a bit of time looking at pics and you will see that the results can be spectacular).
Pruning - Mermaid has reddish, flexible stems with many prickles - get some good gauntlets and do not wait until spring to prune - you can do it around November. Be harsh. Remove every side shoot by at least two thirds - this will hold the rose to a flatter, more 2dimensional space because you do not want it flinging arching canes out as an attack rose.
Again, don't be scared - you CAN do this.
The big plus about Mermaid is the rather good glossy foliage which is a perfect foil for the enormous moon-like flowers. The whole garage wall will eventually be hidden. You will be able to lean a ladder against the whole thing to get to the top branches.
Yes, it is thorny BUT NOT MORE THAN MANY OTHER ROSES. The position you have chosen is completely perfect for this rose but do not expect it to cover itself in blooms - it has roses more 'dotted about' and looks gorgeous as an informal cottage-y wall cover.

Alternatively, you could just get a wisteria.


clipped on: 04.16.2013 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2013 at 05:04 pm

RE: Eyeconic Pomegranate Lemonade (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: campanula on 03.31.2013 at 03:44 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I have had a fondness for these roses since Harkness created Euphrates but these later hybrids appear to have outstanding disease resistance along with the beautiful and innovative flower (heps, sadly missing) - really remarkable - totally healthy in my tiny garden where every other rose is guaranteed to show at least a smattering of BS or mildew (and even rust, some years). If this health continues down later breeding lines, I think these roses will reach beyond the novelty market and have a definite role to play in hybridising. Kudos to Jim Sproul and Chris Warner.
Here's my Eyes for You


clipped on: 04.15.2013 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2013 at 01:27 pm

The Allure of The Early English Roses

posted by: rideauroselad on 01.23.2013 at 08:40 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I've just quit painting for the day. DW and I are doing yet more updating our 105 year old Victorian House and I need spend some time thinking about my passions rather than painting trim.

So on to rose talk. I've long been an admirer of David Austin and his marvelous breeding program. Some people love to hate him, but if it weren't for Entlish roses, I'd likely have quit growing roses in my cold climate. I first fell in love with David Austin's roses in a much warmer climate almost twenty years ago. The fact that many of his roses are relatively hardy here in Eastern Ontario, 4b, makes them even more dear to me as a passionate rose gardener in a rose challenged climate. Its -20 C outside and going to - 28 C or colder tonight. So once more, my roses will be tested by a cold Canadian Winter.

Many of the Early English Roses prove hardy because of the fact that they have OGR and Rugosa breeding very close up in their genetics. This in my view also helps to give many of them a much more OGR habit, and form as plants than a lot of the newer releases. Yes, perhaps they are not as continuous flowering as the newer releases, but their hardiness and shrubby habit more than make up for that in my garden.

Some of my favorites are:

Cressida (1983):

 photo Cressida_TivoliRose_zpsfca29305.jpg

This image of Cressida is one taken by Tivoli Rose, Susan, from New York, who used to frequent the forum. It is one of the most gorgeous rose photos I have ever seen. I hope she does not mind me linking to it, credit where credit is due.

Cressida has been one of my favorite roses every since I first saw / smelled her. She is one of the most fragrant roses I have ever smelled. Potent, delicious and fruity scent, of Myrrh and old fashioned perfume. Her blooms are ruffled and pleasingly dishevelled and have a rare old time charm with a hint of her Noisette / Climbing Tea ancestry, through Gloire de Dijon. She is three quarters Gallica through her pollen parent Chaucer and half Rugossa hybrid through her seed parent Conrad Ferdinand Meyer. She does best as a grafted plant. I have tried to grow her own root several times, but while she strikes cuttings easily, they remain extremely small, miniature size, for me. We shall give her a real test for hardiness this week. I did not winter protect her this year and the nights are very cold this week.

Lilian Austin:

Rosa Lilian Austin photo PA061023.jpg

Lillian Austin is a standout for her colour, rapid rebloom and cold hardiness. She is low growing and a bit sprawling, would make a good landscape rose. her blooms are a gorgeous salmon colour with a yellow centre and are especially lovely in cooler weather. I have grown her forever and would not be without her. Her cold hardiness is a bit of a mystery. Her breeding is full of tender Hybrid Teas and Floribundas with a only a little Gallica and Rosa Foeteda a long way back. But never the less, she must have inherited a cold hardiness gene from one of her ancestors, because she survives zone 4b winters year after year.

Redoute (1992 sport of The Mary Rose 1983):

Redoute photo GardenTour070002.jpg

Redoute is a sport of The Mary Rose, and I love its blush pink colour. He is also healthy, fragrant, vigorous, has prolific rebloom and is reliably winter hardy in my garden. I grow several plants of Redoute and Wichester Cathedral, a White Sport of The Mary Rose, in my garden. There is Gallica again, three generations back and that is where I presume the winter hardiness trait came from. No winter protection for these plants either.

William Shakespeare, the original (1987):

William Shakespear photo DSCF0091.jpg

This is one of Mr. Austin's roses that has been "superceded". Not just superceded, but he has in fact named another rose William Shakespear 2000. I have grown both, but William Shakespear 2000 has left the garden after four years and several moves to try to make him happy. The original for me in my garden is vastly superior and remains. He is much more shrubby, vigorous, healthier, more winter hardy and just as good a bloomer. His flowers are larger and more of a garnet crimson that fades to a pleasing mauve purple similar to some of the old Gallica roses such as Hippolyte and Charles de Milles. The colour in my photo is a little washed out, so I have linked to a website with some gorgeous photos of this rose. Another early English rose I adore.

Well, I've gone on quite a while, got the rose bug out of my system for now on this cold January day. I've been hearing its cold in California. Sorry bout that, but I suspect its a wee bit colder here in the Great White North.

Cheers, Rick

Here is a link that might be useful: William Shakespeare at Démons et Merveilles


clipped on: 04.13.2013 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2013 at 07:48 pm

RE: The Allure of The Early English Roses (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: rideauroselad on 02.06.2013 at 10:29 am in Antique Roses Forum

I too grew A;mbridge Rose, but for me as well, she was just plagued by Blackspot and defoliated by mid July. When she was in first flush however, her flowers were wonderful, as was her potent fragrance. I was just looking through my photobucket albums to see if I could find an image of her that I once had and liked very much, no luck though. As stated in the thread above, roses will perform differently in differnt gardens, so if you can grow her well in your garden, Ambridge Rose is definitely a treasure.

While looking through my albums, I found some more images of some of the cultivars I initiated this post with. Here are a few more:

Lilian Austin X 2

Lilian Austin photo P6160063.jpg

Lilian Austin photo LillianA2.jpg

William Shakespeare (Original, 1987) X 2:

William Shakespear - Original photo DSCF0046.jpg

William Shakespear - Original photo DSCF0040.jpg


Redoute photo Redoute.jpg

And while I was browsing images, I came across the two images below of another early, hard to find favorite that I have grown forever. The rose is Bredon, bred from Wife of Bath and Lilian Austin. He is short, under three feet for me, has an uprigh habit, very healthy in my garden, floriferous and quite winter hardyin 4b. He has a pleasant, mild fruity fragrance. I began rooting cuttings from my plant last year because he is becomming hard to find, though Hortico in Canada and a few nurseries in the U.S. still list him. He is in the same category as Potter & Moore, an early Austin cultivar that never got much attention and was never wikely grown. He is another of the early English Roses that deserves much wider cultivation IMHO.

Bredon (1984)

Bredon photo P6160054.jpg

Rosa Bredon photo PA061032.jpg

Jeri and Ingrid, you have both enabled me, Cymbeline and Potter & Moore are now on the top of my cultivars to trial list. Thank goodness I already have two plants of Pretty Jessica and one of Claire Rose coming in April. Too many roses, too little room.

I am really enjoying chatting with you all in this thread, it is giving me a much needed winter rose fix.

Cheers, Rick


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RE: Graham Thomas synchronicity (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: roseseek on 04.10.2013 at 06:36 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Roses by Harkness; the paper back edition of Rose Growing Complete by LeGrice (more complete than the 1965 hard back edition); The Complete Rosarian by Norman Young; Roses from Dreams to Reality by Swim; Papa Floribunda, the Gene Boerner Story; anything by J. H. Nicholas, particularly A Rose Odyssey; Hennessey on Roses by Roy Hennessey (you will laugh yourself silly. He was SUCH a curmudgeon and so hotly opinionated!) among others are great reads which will teach you MUCH. If you're in California and want to know everything there is to know about horticultural history, particularly about SoCal, Victoria Padilla's Southern California Gardens is a MUST. The first edition is large format and very expensive. There is a reprint in more usual book size with a cover price of $39.95. Amazon loves to supply you the $40 book for over $100, so beware. It's happened to several I know. They'll refund it if you make a loud enough stink, but why have to?

Thomas' trilogy is a wonderful read, but unless you live in a climate similar to his, do not take anything he says to heart. You will not enjoy the results. MANY of us ignorantly believed what he said about the cold hardy OGRs, spending much money, time and effort until we learned what he wrote is only applicable to HIS type of climates. The same holds true for anything written by Beales. Don't get me wrong, these writers were "experts", they wrote wonderfully and did great things for the world of roses, but their advice and recommendations ONLY apply to THEIR climates. If they are to be faulted, it would be for not realizing and stating "your mileage may vary" and explaining why. That would have saved many from failing and feeling they just can't grow roses. Kim


clipped on: 04.10.2013 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 04.10.2013 at 11:31 pm

Pretty Peach Silk

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 04.10.2013 at 09:41 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I don't have many climbers or peachy/ orange roses but this one I truly love.


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RE: Pretty Peach Silk (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 04.10.2013 at 09:44 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

The Albertine rambler on the shed roof


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RE: Mission Impossible? Teas in 4 hours of sun? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jerijen on 04.05.2013 at 10:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I think it depends upon the Tea.

Lady Hillingdon, maybe. Mons. Tillier. Rosette Delizy?

NOT the Cochets.

Better off with the Nabonnands. Gen. Gallieni, G. Nabonnand, Rosette Delizy -- they seem less-fussy to me, and their blooms open more easily. Maybe, I might start with G. Nabonnand.

None of the Nabonnands mildew for me, Diane -- and we, too, have cool coastal air and fog.

But keep in mind that you will get less bloom, than if they were in the sun.

OH, and don't get discouraged if they mildew when they're immature. We DO see that, and most outgrow it.

Le Vesuve mildewed its way through 5 years or so, and left for the landfill. Mme. Antoine Rebe is on her way to the landfill, after 5-6 mildewy years.

BUT, FWIW, let me tell you that we have a massive "Grandmother's Hat" under the canopy of a huge (and I do mean 3-story) seedling avocado tree. It is completely healthy, and blooms just fine.



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RE: Cocoa Mulch for nitrogen and potassium (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: rosefolly on 04.09.2013 at 12:07 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Strawberryhill, I have read your tales of your garden experiments with great enjoyment. You clearly have an inquiring mind and a keen sense of adventure, and you share my fascination with soil as the fundamental source of garden success. I don't know what your actual profession is but I think you would have been very well suited to the world of science.

The general rule of amending soil it to mix in only material that is completely composted. It can be horse manure, pine needles, whatever you like, as long as it is composted to the point that you cannot tell anymore by looking what the source material was. Good compost will resemble dark soil. Composted horse manure no longer even smells like horse manure. You can handle it with your bare hands and it has no ick factor. Similarly, composted pine needles have broken down so much you can't tell that they started out as pine needles. Why? Because as long as these materials are still breaking down, they will tie up the nitrogen in the soil for their decomposition process. If they are using the nitrogen, it will not be available for your plants to use.

On the other hand, these same materials before they are broken down, or partially broken down, are highly beneficial as a layer sitting on the surface of the soil. This is exactly what happens to build soil in nature either in a forest or a grassland. There the material will act as mulch, doing all the truly wonderful things that mulch can do for your soil. The nitrogen tie-up will only take place where the soil and the mulch actually touch, so the plants are not impacted. Over time, the soil microbes and worms carry all that good stuff down where it is beneficial, and in a form that improves the health of the soil.

There are a couple of outstanding authors that have helped me sort out advice I've read or been told that sounds good from what actually works. At one time I was impressed by a lot of sincerely well-meant advice that I later set aside. Anyway, here the authors.

Linda Chalker-Scott
The Informed Gardener
The Informed Gardener Blooms Again

Jeff Gillman
The Truth About Garden Remedies
The Truth About Organic Gardening
Decoding Garden Advice

All of these books are available in paperback, and many libraries will have them as well.

Finally here is another quite wonderful book that would be enjoyed by anyone as intrigued by soil as I am, and you clearly are as well.

Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis

Teaming with Microbes: The Organic Gardner's Guide to the Soil Food Web

Happy reading and happy gardening!



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RE: Ideas for fantastic Clematis Combos wanted!! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: twrosz on 02.01.2012 at 10:37 pm in Clematis Forum

Had previously posted this under the wrong thread :(

I've paired the following up and will post pictures this summer

Viola with Princess Diana

Barbara Harrington and Perle d'Azur

Ville de Lyon and Prince Charles

Perle d'Azur and Marie Cornelia

Emilia Plater and Madame Julia Correvon, looks especially good!

Ville de Lyon and Romantika

Florida Sieboldii with Barbara Harrington

Perle d'Azur with Comtesse de Bouchaud ... really prudy together!



clipped on: 04.03.2013 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2013 at 11:58 pm

A hybrid wichurana Madame Alice Garnier

posted by: lynnette on 03.02.2013 at 04:49 pm in Antique Roses Forum

This is an ideal rambler for smaller gardens. Only grows to about 12 feet in my garden.


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RE: Vignettes of roses and companions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 03.30.2013 at 07:40 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Suan have you heard of Stephen Scaniello's book? I think it's called Roses and Their Companions. I found it very helpful. How exciting that you have grown all these plants from seed. I can't imagine you going wrong.
Here's one photo. I find it's rather difficult to find a perfect one involving companions.


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RE: Jean Bach Sisley and Le Vesuve (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: luxrosa on 03.30.2013 at 08:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I've been using Epsom salts to encourage growth on China and Tea roses for the last couple years after reading about it's use for roses in general, in a British gardening book
The standard amount for an average sized rosebush is 1/3rd of a cup of Epson Salts dissolved in a gallon of hot water and then cooled, given once a year in spring.

Be sure the ground is moist before you add the epson salts. I mix in a bit of 12-12-12 fertilizer for small rosebushes, and 16-16-16 for those that are more than 4' tall, and climbers.
I had amazing success with this for getting Le Pactole, and other Teas to get a move on. Before Epson salts Le Pactole bought as a band sized plant in spring of 2011, grew less than a foot in its first year in my garden despite wonderfully amended soil and all the love and praise I could give it.
In spring of 2012 I gave it a couple T. of Epson salts with 12-12-12 fertilizer, after I saw that it tolerated this well, I repeated this six weeks later. My Le Pactole' doubled in size over an 8th month period.
Le Pactole is one of the' slowest to build size" Old Garden Teas.
Now, on March 31, 2013 it is waist high and almost as wide,
Oh joy!
I gave Epson salts and fertilizer as stated above to Monsieur Tilllier and my plant bought in January 2012, as a gallon sized rosebush from a.r.e, grew to be 4 and 1/2 feet by September of the same year. My neighbor bought the same cultivar from a.r.e 2 months earlier than mine and her plant is still c. half the size of mine, on March 31,2013 and she has excellent soil and cultivation methods and means.
Best wishes for lovely roses,


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RE: Orange rose/companion plant color combo? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: campanula on 03.03.2013 at 03:28 pm in Roses Forum

Not much of a pastel fan so would agree, purple/deep red with orange is a good combo. I like to stir this up even more with the acid green of euphorbia or mollucella or the sharp green of nicotiana langsdorfii and deschampsia 'Tatra Gold'.


clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 05:48 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 05:48 pm

RE: Orange rose/companion plant color combo? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nanadoll on 03.03.2013 at 02:52 pm in Roses Forum

If you want to try penstemon, as Kim suggested, you might try "Blackberry Ice", with rich purple blooms that are produced all summer. It grows 25-30 inches tall, and deer and rabbits seem to totally avoid it. Other good purples are the echinacea or coneflowers, and a fairly new variety, "Pow Wow Wildberry" is a short one. I think the taller varieties bloom more, however. Coreopsis "Heaven's Gate" is a good short purple, and a new variety with a deep purplish color "Mercury Rising" is one I'm eager to try. A favorite of mine is the la Bella series of snapdragons. These include the gorgeous, long blooming la Bella purple. They have an open azalea type bloom. I like to fill in here and there with purple osteospernum Atrican Daisies in the short varieties. Other good plants which are a little bluer, but have some lavender tendencies are the hardy geraniums, "Rozanne" which has an especially long bloom time, and "New Hampshire". Hope this helps a little. Diane


clipped on: 03.05.2013 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 05:47 pm

RE: Orange rose/companion plant color combo? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roseseek on 03.03.2013 at 04:32 am in Roses Forum

One of the most dramatic combinations I accidentally had in the old garden was the orange floribunda Orangeade with Raven penstemon (dark, violet purple) and violet columbines. I'd not deliberately put the colors together, though I like that combination. They helped themselves to each others' spaces. Another which was quite striking was Silver Charm (lavender, single floribunda) with myosotis (baby blue eyes). You have the lavender tones and you're adding orange. I'd pump in some deep, glowing violet with just a touch of butter yellow to round it out a bit. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Raven Penstemon


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RE: Recommendations for shrubbiest, most vigorous hybrid teas (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: harmonyp on 01.19.2013 at 10:50 am in Roses Forum

Blueberry Hill

Just Joey

Miss All American Beauty

Plus seconds on: Dick Clark and Cherry Parfait


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RE: any suggestions for perennials to plant with my roses? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: mariannese on 02.23.2013 at 05:27 am in Antique Roses Forum

I like the maroon Greek scabious, Knautia macedonica, as a filler with pale yellow roses. With pink and red roses I use most of the blues already mentioned that are suitable in my climate. Astrantias come in many shades of greenish white, pink and red and can be discrete companions to many roses. Astrantia 'Roma' with 'Jacqueline du Pré' in the photo.


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:46 am

RE: any suggestions for perennials to plant with my roses? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: AquaEyes on 02.23.2013 at 12:44 am in Antique Roses Forum

I can't really comment on what plants will do well in Texas heat from my own experience (I've gardened on Long Island, and am starting a new one in central NJ), but if you want some good ideas on what might work, check out Plant Delights Nursery. Their plants are big and healthy, and they offer realistic reviews of how plants do in their heat and humidity (they're in North Carolina). They tend to veer toward the unusual, but also offer selections of more common plants which don't melt in their climate. When I was looking for something unusual (or just happened to really like something in their online catalog), I was happy to order from them. As far as "basic" companion perennials, also check out Bluestone Perennials. Their plants tend to be smaller, but very healthy, and I've ordered from them many times -- always happy with what I got.



Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Delights Nursery


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:46 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:46 am

RE: any suggestions for perennials to plant with my roses? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: hoovb on 02.22.2013 at 03:24 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Geranium 'Rozanne' is mandatory.

Geranium 'Rozanne'

former lawn


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RE: Upper Garden Roses and Irises (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: sweetannie4u on 02.20.2013 at 06:00 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

White flowering, "Darwin's Enigma" behind Hebe statue with perennial Fleabane and Rosa, Lady Elsie Mae below..
Sunny Knock Out to right of statue.


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:36 am

RE: Upper Garden Roses and Irises (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sweetannie4u on 02.20.2013 at 05:21 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Climbing Don Juan.

White-blooming Darwin's Enigma was moved from another location to grow next to Don Juan behind the Hebe statue. I want to remove the clothesline T-post. Just need help doing that. It will be quite a chore!

Due to our continuing drought and extreme temps, Don Juan died back almost to her base. I thought it was a goner, but bounced back the following spring and look at her blooms!


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RE: Upper Garden Roses and Irises (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sweetannie4u on 02.20.2013 at 04:58 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

View from Upper Garden looking down to entry arch of the main Rose Garden. Old Blush, cl. & Ispahan grow on the arch.

You can see Tiffany through the arch in the Rose & Iris Garden. There are also Herbs in there.

The Roman Basket Arch was my birthday present from my mother last year. I was flabbergasted!

This post was edited by sweetannie4u on Sat, Feb 23, 13 at 2:45


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:35 am

RE: Upper Garden Roses and Irises (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sweetannie4u on 02.20.2013 at 04:16 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Betty Prior rose buds


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:34 am

Upper Garden Roses and Irises

posted by: sweetannie4u on 02.20.2013 at 03:46 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

Here you see:
* Betty Prior (deep pink - left),
* the dainty little blooms of Heritage (front & center),
* Blush Damask (left bottom),
* Iceberg,(peeking through Betty Prior in back),
* Ballerina (back center),
* Simply Marvelous (far back- right),
* Lady Elsie Mae (way back center)
and peeking through the Heritage bush, you can just make out one of the blooms of Belinda's Dream.
There are several more roses in this garden.

I just added two new roses this past week: "Pristine"

This is my favorite garden most of the season.

(CLICK on photos to enlarge)

This post was edited by sweetannie4u on Wed, Feb 20, 13 at 16:19


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 09:34 am

From my garden journal: Roses and Delphiniums

posted by: Molineux on 07.21.2005 at 08:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Originally posted on the Mid Atlantic Forum July 8th

I have delphiniums!

I've been in the Washington DC metro area for about 10 years now. About 2 and a half years ago I bought a house just north of the District in Montgomery County Maryland and have been settling in gardenwise.

I used to live in Tidewater Virginia. Back then I had a great deal of success with roses but the one perennial I wanted to grow but couldn't were delphiniums. Been lusting after these picky plants for years but the hot and humid summers would murder them outright.

Last year a Maryland forum friend recommended that I try Magic Fountain delphinums. Well I can happily report that these delphiniums have not only survived but currently have the most beautiful spires of blooms in all shades of blue and white. Of course they aren't as spectacular as the Pacific Giants but I'm not complaining. I'm THRILLED to have ANY kind of dephinium growing well in my garden. Best of all the stems are really strong and haven't needed staking. Mine are about 3 feet high.

I also have some Connecticut Yankee dephiniums but they haven't bloomed yet so the jury is still out. At least they are alive so we shall see.

Update, July 21, 2005

Temps for the past two weeks have been in the 90s with high humidity. The delphinums aren't fazed a bit. They are planted against the eastern side of the house and shielded from late afternoon sun.

ALL of the delphiniums are in bloom. The Connecticut Yankees are handling the heat every bit as good as the Magic Fountains. Electric blue color in every possible shade. The only difference is that the Magic Fountains have that stiff upright growth habit that we expect from a delphinium. The Connecticut Yankees have a tendency to twist and grow in other directions but if staked they will grow upright. On the positive side they have white "bees" in the center of the flower, which makes it look like a dwarf Pacific Giant. Both types have topped out at 3 feet tall.

Of the two I like the MAGIC FOUNTAINS better because of the growth habit. That said I'm reserving final judgement until later to see which one better handles sustained heat.

Of course, the last test takes place next season when I'll judge which one comes back the best. If they both perform then each type earns a permanent spot in the Twilight's Bower garden.

BTW, delphiniums look fabulous with roses.


clipped on: 02.23.2013 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2013 at 04:28 pm

Sophy's Rose Inside

posted by: ingrid_vc on 02.08.2013 at 03:18 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I spent quite some time today trying to capture the true color of this rose, and I confess it was more difficult than any rose I've ever photographed. I don't think I succeeded completely, but I hope the pictures capture some of the charm of Sophy's Rose. I discovered it can be a good cut rose if it's picked as soon as the sepals are down, and I even tried on or two with some of the sepals still up, and even those buds opened, which is quite a feat.

As a counter to all those rose pictures, the last is of the front yard, just past the garden and concrete parking area. Just a little later now it's raining and hailing!



clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 03:41 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2013 at 03:41 pm

RE: What shrubs drape like Raubritter (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 12.23.2011 at 01:59 pm in Roses Forum

I am in the wrong zone for you, but Peter Schneider's book (he gardens in Ohio) "Right Rose, Right Place" is a good place to start. I think any flexible cold hardy climber would work - you could train it over the wall just as you would along a fence. Schneider recommends Phyllis Bide as being ever blooming and very cold hardy. I grow it up a tree - here's a picture. It has thin flexible canes.




clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 09:17 pm

RE: Who Grows Phyllis Bide? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: luxrosa on 02.07.2008 at 06:20 pm in Antique Roses Forum

We have a young "P.B." and I've seen it reach the size of a Rambler.
I reccomend "Opal Brunner" which we also grow, because it bears darling roses of several hues, on a more managable plant. Each blossom is a combination of pale rose, lilac, and light apricot, . Its' leaves are abundant and pretty, and it can be grown as a 4-5 foot tall bush or trained to grow as a short climber of c. 6 feet tall. It is a much better behaved rose than P.B.. In S. California I'd suggest giving "Opal Brunner" 1-2 hours of dappled shade, if you want the hues of the blooms to be richer.



clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 09:16 pm

RE: Rose Pillar construction details (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: karenforroses on 03.22.2008 at 10:15 pm in Roses Forum

My husband just designed and built two cedar pillars - he's using them as samples for a garden structure workshop he's doing with our rose society in May. Here's pictures of them in his workshop - they are built of cedar so they won't rot, and can be painted or left to weather to a gray color. One is 5' high and the other is 7' high. The curved pieces on the top of the second picture were left over pieces from an arbor he made me. He's still experimenting - hope I get to keep the samples!



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RE: Rose Pillar construction details (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: rjlinva on 03.23.2008 at 06:54 am in Roses Forum


I grow LOTS of roses on pillars (actually rebar teepees). I simply get 3 pieces of 10 ft rebar, drive it into the ground about 20 inches (in a 3 ft triangle pattern) and secure the tops with an automotive hose clamp. I put the rose inside.



clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 10:49 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 10:49 pm

RE: Restraining Mme Alfred Carriere on pillar? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 09.12.2011 at 08:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Have you considered Cl Iceberg? Even in my warm climate, it is MUCH easier to control than MAC. Don't get me wrong - I love MAC. We have three. One was planted to climb up a plum tree, did that, and also jumped over to the tops of 3 other trees. Got to the top of its original tree, and sent long canes from the top down to the base again, covering another huge (20 ft by 20 ft) shrub in the process.

Another was planted to grow up the side of our garage. Did that, and also went another 20 feet up a pine tree next to the garage, from whence it is contemplating eating the neighbor's deck.

The third one was planted (in a large pot this time!) at the base of another plum tree next to the other side of the garage. It went up the tree 20 feet, and is also now trying to cover the entire roof of the garage.

I love them because they bloom for 10 months here, and get no care from me at all, except food once a year and some water during our normal 6 month summer drought.

I would not ever try to "control" this rose -



clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 10:21 pm

RE: Sombreuil--enable me! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: hoovb on 11.03.2008 at 04:46 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here you go:



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RE: Sombreuil--enable me! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: carolfm on 10.31.2008 at 01:45 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I agree with Paula, it would be a painful and bloody job to try to train Sombreuil around a pillar. It could be done, nothing is impossible, but she really would be better on a wall, trellis, or somewhere you could fan the canes out and bend them as horizontally as possible. I love Sombreuil. Very fragrant, beautiful blooms, good disease resistance (even here)and plenty of blooms. You really do need her, Kate. Just maybe not on the pillar.

She's a beauty


Sombreuil and clematis



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RE: Sombreuil--enable me! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 10.31.2008 at 01:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My Sombreuil/Colonial White started on a pillar, but soon got too tall, so my husband built an arch that spans the 8 foot distance from the pillar to our house. It has now grown up the 6 foot pillar, over the 8 foot arch, up to the roof of our 3 1/2 story house, and is even putting out long canes that would go taller than the roof if we would let them!

The wall of the house it is growing on gets a Western exposure, in sunny Calif. No crisping or blurning at all. Re cold tolerance, I understand that this rose is a Winchuriana hybrid, so it should have enough cold tolerance for your zone. Mine is perfectly healthy, and never gets sprayed (we have enough trouble going up on a 30 foot lader once a year to tie new canes up to the house!).

It blooms in waves all Spring and summer, more if you deadhead it periodically.


clipped on: 02.10.2013 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 10:03 pm

RE: Pillar Roses (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: hartwood on 11.07.2012 at 08:08 am in Antique Roses Forum

Training a rose to a pillar is a cinch! I have a structure in my garden that I call The Arcade, and it has a rose trained to each of the ten posts. The trick is to limit the rose to no more than 3 or 4 main canes. Roses that produce profuse basals can work, but they're more work to keep them narrow and on the pillar than roses that don't. I wrap the long canes around the post in a spiral, all the same direction, and I tie them in place with jute twine.

The best of the roses on my Arcade, as far as their pillar performance goes, are Compassion, White Cap, Pink Pillar, Pink Perpetue, Parade, Rhode Island Red, Henry Kelsey, and Sombruiel. Isabella Skinner is there, but she isn't really suited for a pillar (because she's shrubby and doesn't want to climb.) I plan to replace her as soon as I decide which rose to put in her place. Swan Lake has beautiful flowers, but she is SO prone to blackspot and she is completely naked during most of the growing season.

Below is a link to a blog post with photos of a couple of my pillar roses ... It was from last year, but at least you can see what I'm talking about.


P.S. Search online for Paul Zimmerman's videos. He has a really good one with step by step instructions on how to pillar a rose.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pillar rose photos


clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2013 at 09:17 pm

RE: Pillar Roses (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: roseseek on 11.07.2012 at 12:47 am in Antique Roses Forum

As long as you don't have heavy snow and extreme freezes to deal with, no, pillar roses are not difficult at all. We've used the shorter, "climbing" English roses as pillars (Cymbaline, English Elegance, Lucetta, Belle Story and others), either growing them up formal structures or simple tripods. The main "secret" is, unless you have a massive structure with someone to climb up there and take care of the thing for you, select a rose which doesn't massively outgrow your fixture. An eight foot structure with a twenty foot plant on it is a nightmare, no matter how beautiful it may be when in full flower.

Shorter climbers, such as Golden Showers and Social Climber; the previously mentioned Austins as well as other bushier ones which can be permitted to develop into larger plants, but not massive monsters like Graham Thomas and its like, can very easily be trained like you would a climber, but on a smaller post, obelisk, pillar, etc. You do exactly the same thing as you would for a climber.

Grandmother's Hat is a marvelous rose for that purpose here in the warmer areas. Many of the later HPs (Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. F. W. Sanford, and others which grow similarly, can easily be wrapped around a post, pillar or obelisk to produce gorgeous results.

You basically want a plant which grows like a larger, floppier bush, instead of a house eating climber, so it's easier to handle and not overpower the structure. Kim


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RE: Good roses for pillars? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roseseek on 05.31.2011 at 04:41 pm in Antique Roses Forum

A suggestion I haven't seen made yet is thornless. Renae, Opal Brunner, Cl. Yellow Sweetheart are all fragrant, ever flowering, thornless and shade tolerant. If it's a larger pillar to arbor, my Annie Laurie McDowell is thornless, larger flowering and ever blooming. She's as fragrant as any and can be kept to a larger space. The previous three can build to that size but it takes more time. Believe me, there is NOTHING better than working with a pillar or climber that doesn't BITE! Kim


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RE: Good roses for pillars? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lori_elf on 05.31.2011 at 03:46 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Pliable canes and roses that are vigorous but not TOO vigorous make good pillar roses. That said, most canes are more pliable when young so even some stiff-caned roses can be trained if you tie in new growth before it hardens off.

Some roses I use or would use for pillars include: Aloha, Cornelia, Mme Ernest Calvat, and Kathleen Harrop.

Here is a photo of Aloha:


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RE: Good roses for pillars? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rosefolly on 05.30.2011 at 11:26 am in Antique Roses Forum

You want roses that throw out long, pliable canes from the base, and not too many. You don't want roses with rigid canes like Dortmund, or climbers that build on older growth like Jacob's Ladder, or roses that produce the right kind of canes but so many of them that you can't keep up with them like Chevy Chase or Louise Odier.

One rose that works well on a pillar for me is the HP Ferdinand Pichard. I do need to go in and work on it two or three times a season, and occasionally tuck in a straying cane, but all in all that's not bad.



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RE: Looking for climbing rose that has nice foliage after bloom (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: videocheez on 02.05.2013 at 10:40 pm in Roses Forum

I again want to thank all of you who have replied to my post. You have given me wonderful ideas and suggestions for climbing roses. I would like to respond to each post individually but I can't figure out how this forum allows for that. It seems like I can only respond to all or I can email the post.
Anyways, I thought I would post a few photos of the area that I'm working with. I have a very large yard for Santa Clara and this is the only remaining area that has no purpose except for being an oversized doggy bathroom. It's about 45' long x 18' wide. I have planted some pink jasmine along the back fence and I have four arches that I want to grow roses over. The arches are about 8-9' high. I was gonna plant some type of climbing rose along the back fence but I decided to go with that pink jasmine. If i could intermix some climbing roses with the ping jasmine, that would be very cool but I need some suggestions. Something pink with nice foliage that doesn't need to be pruned to the ground every year would be ideal. I also want to plant a low climber for the black fence. It is about 3.5' high. The back fence is south facing. Down on the far end is an apple tree and its on the west side of the yard. This whole area receives a lot of sunlight during spring, summer and fall. In the winter, about half of the yard has direct sunlight all day long. Lastly, I'm looking for a shade tolerant climbing rose if it exists to grow over the metal fencing that surrounds my garbage cans. This area is in the shade is up against a north facing wall. Thanks in advance, VC
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This post was edited by videocheez on Tue, Feb 5, 13 at 23:41


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RE: Looking for climbing rose that has nice foliage after bloom (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: wanttogarden on 02.04.2013 at 03:18 pm in Roses Forum

I live in Sunnyvale. The only true climber I have is Mel's Heritage, which is a rose SJHR has exclusive rights to. It has very small polyantha like peach pink fragrant flowers. The good news is if planted in full sun it blooms continuously. Mine only gets few hours of sun and its a once bloomer. Go to the rose garden in Spring and you see it in full glory.

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My other suggestion would be David Austin Roses. If the catalog says it can be a climber, it definitely will be a climber here. Look through catalog and post your possible choices, people from California can comment on health and flower production. I have only two that climbs. There are many more to fit your requirements.

Falstaff 8'
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Christopher Marlowe: Short climber 6-8'
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RE: "R" roses (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: harborrose on 02.01.2013 at 05:24 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

A friend of mine has that rose, Kate, and I agree, it is beautiful. Nice pictures.

Here's my only contribution, Rosa Mundi, the gallica, although you already saw it in the L's with Lynnie!

Rosa Mundi


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RE: Sweet Intoxicating Fragrance (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fig_insanity on 02.03.2013 at 11:53 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Yeah, I know it's not roses, but I agree: nothing quite like the scent of hyacinths first thing in the Spring. I have started a bulb meadow with the old French Roman hyacinths and species narcissus. Here's a pic from last year, when the planting was two years old. The narcissus were just beginning to bloom, but I didn't get a later pic when they were really looking good. They should be even better this year.


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RE: CHEAP fertilizer (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: buford on 02.03.2013 at 08:25 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I only use alfalfa and compost and bags of composted manure on my roses. It's fairly cheap but it can be a lot of work (I make my own compost). You wont see a huge difference with alfalfa right away. I do it in the spring and maybe again in August, if I feel like it. But if you put enough organic material around the roses, they will respond. And don't forget watering.

I don't soak the alfalfa, I just put down the pellets and mix it in with the compost and manure and let it break down naturally.


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RE: So, what's your spring kick-in-the-pants formula (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: susan4952 on 02.03.2013 at 02:43 pm in Roses Forum

After pruning and cleaning up all the old mulch, I put a layer of well rotted manure as a top dressing to the drip line. This forms a weed barrier crust that I cover with regular wood mulch. It breaks down into the soil as the season progresses. I follow this wih an twice a season application of alfalfa tea ( Epsom, seaweed and fish emulsion, etc ) Bayer drench once a month. Miracle Grow, Jacks, Dr. Earth, Mills, etc. are the once a weekers. I know I probably over do it but I have great results. Feed them something once a week. Even if I use half strength. osmocote never worked for me.....


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RE: So, what's your spring kick-in-the-pants formula (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: seil on 02.03.2013 at 10:57 am in Roses Forum

In the early spring, usually the beginning of April right after I prune, I'll put down a cup of a good slow release fertilizer and a 1/2 cup of Epsom Salts (half those amounts for minis) around each plant and scratch it in and then water with some SuperThrive. After that it's usually liquid foliar fertilizers and fish emulsion about every two weeks through the rest of the season. I have occasionally added some more Epsom Salts in late July early August before but I don't always and don't know that it makes much difference.

I can't bring myself to do the alfalfa tea because of the smell, lol! The fish is bad enough.


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RE: Bloom type: Fully Double and Flat? So confused! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 01.28.2013 at 01:28 pm in Roses Forum

Here is a picture of Sombreuil being "fully double and flat".



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RE: Feeding bands and 1 gal in summer (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 09.01.2012 at 08:26 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Kitty: I bought 14 bands from Burlington this past March, and I put them into 2-gallons pots immediately (plastic pot for $5 each). I also got 18 roses gallon-size from RU, Chamblee's, and 1 Walmart and put them into pots immediately. Now most of them are in the ground, planted very deep for zone 5a winter.

For soil in the pots I followed both books, one by Field Roebuck of Texas, and the other by Ontario nurseryman Douglas Green. Here's my pots experiment with 32 roses:

1) The worst one is Ball Professional Pottting soil, NO slow-released fertilizer, mixed with 1 cup Hollytone (with bacteria like Rosetone, and sulfur). The growth is VERY SLOW.

2) MiracleGro potting soil (green bag, pH of 6.5) mixed with 2 cups peat moss, 2 cups native clay soil, 2 cups alfalfa meal. This was too wet for our rainy weather, and I had to drill extra-holes in the pot. The mix is too acidic, blackspot magnets Scentsational and Comte de Chambord broke out in BS, and I had to mulch them with horse manure, before they are clean.

3) See #4 below, except I ran out out potting soil, and topdressed mini Love Ya Dad with my native clay soil. It worked well: no blackspots, and it bloomed like crazy. The clay soil on top acted like a fertile crust to keep the below soil moist. This pot has the most bloom.

4) MiracleGro Organic potting soil (brown bag, pH of 7), mixed with 2 cups of native soil, 2 cups peat moss, and 2 cups of alfalfa meal. This gave the best result: Annie Laurie McDowell bought as a band is now 2' x 2.5' wide, too big, I'll have to put her in the ground. Jacques Cartier as a band became huge, and I had to put him in the ground after 1 month being bought. Also zero blackspot on roses with this neutral pH potting soil.

All my 32 pots were in full-sun, except for Paul Neyron in partial shade. I don't fertilize them except for topdressing with alfalfa meal mixed with fluffy potting soil before a heavy rain. I did it twice this summer. I was sick of pinching off Annie' buds constantly, so I gave her acid fertilizer high in nitrogen this month. She's the only one that gets it, since I want her to be very big before burying her bud union 4" below ground level.

See below picture of Crimson Glory as a band, with 1 month of growth, it's catching up with the gallon size rose behind it.


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Climbing Rose versus Rambler?

posted by: SusanBachman on 01.26.2013 at 10:53 am in Roses Forum

What is the difference between a 'climbing rose', a 'rambler' and an 'old garden rose'? Has anyone had experience with these?

I have an old little pink climber (miniature?) I think. I will post pictures in the summer when it is blooming. It was saved from a farm. It gets long stems that are weak. I am not sure if it really is a climber or what. How do you tell if it is a climber?

picture from Sunset Roses. This is what they say: "Rose bushes are natural choices for flower beds and shrub borders; some also make fine hedges or container plants. The largest are the old garden roses, grandifloras, and shrub roses. Hybrid teas and floribundas generally grow with more restraint. Miniature roses are the smallest; some reach only 1 foot tall. For a little formality, consider a standard rose, a bush rose grown on a tall bare stem; a patio rose is a small standard.

Climbing roses grow on vertical surfaces or free-standing supports. The most vigorous ones, the ramblers, will cover a house roof or grow to the top of a large tree. More moderate climbers clothe arbors and tall walls. Small climbers, sometimes called pillar roses, are suitable for a pyramid or trellis. In addition to the roses that are classified as climbers, there are old garden roses and shrub roses that climb, and climbing miniature roses.

Ground cover roses make a low, mounding carpet of color up to 8 feet wide. They are most often massed on a slope or an area of the garden where other knee-high shrubs might be used. They also make good container plants."


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RE: Ordered on Fortuniana (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: on 01.21.2013 at 05:16 pm in Roses Forum

Of the one's you have on order, These are the one's I've grown (on fortuniana). Felicia---Nice big bushy bush with lots of blooms. Francis Dubreuil---Not the nicest bush I've ever seen but "WOW" the blooms. Plant them fairly close together. The bush shoots straight up. It needs afternoon shade so the blooms won't burn. Blueberry Hill---Again I wasn't to wild about the bush habit (grows side ways) but the blooms were nice. Lady X---Nice bush but grew tall. Keep it cut to 4'. I think you'll like it. Lemon Spice---Give it afternoon shade and it will probably end up being your favorite. It can be a little stingy.


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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: 1101 on 01.17.2013 at 06:26 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Here are Zephirine Drouhin and Cecile Brunner


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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 01.17.2013 at 02:00 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Pam - what I like most (there are, of course, dozens of things!) about your garden is the growing-together, romantic nooks, new gorgeous scenes around each corner attributes - it is a wonderland.

Here is a funny pic of some of my roses growing together - the orange fading to peachy pink fading to white one in the foreground is an unknown rose that I think someone brought over to me as a dinner party hostess gift - I stuck it in the ground out by the street (you can clearly see the street curb in the bottom left of the picture), and forgot about it. It came to my attention years later, doing this. Actually, it is in full bloom right now - I just noticed it yesterday. The dark pink rose is the original Flower Carpet, which has also been left mostly on its own out by the street. The white rose way in the background is Gourmet Popcorn - it is on the other side of the sidewalk.



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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 01.17.2013 at 10:07 am in Antique Roses Forum

This is one of my favorite Roses Growing Together shots. This is from the door of my studio last June. The roses are Blaze, The Beacon, Madame Alfred C., Fulgens, Sally Holmes, Jadis, and Complicata.


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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: mariannese on 01.17.2013 at 05:44 am in Antique Roses Forum

The double dark purple rose to the far left is L'Eveque, the single La Belle Sultane is almost everywhere. It's colour is a little too reddish in the photo because of the sunlight, it's really also a dark purple. I forgot to mention that there is a small, struggling and non-flowering Crown Princess Margareta at the front, the last survival of the apricots. I'll clean up this bed in spring. Margareta and Perennial Blue both deserve better.

I have other color themed beds but no good pictures.


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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: mariannese on 01.16.2013 at 08:01 am in Antique Roses Forum

My purple corner is a total mess but I didn't plan it that way. Being unused to own root roses I didn't expect Centifolia a fleurs doubles violettes (may really be L'Eveque) and Violacea (aka La belle Sultane) to become rampant and spread all over the border. Rhapsody in Blue stays in place. On the far right one can see a few flowers of Perennial Blue (more red than blue) peeping out. It was planted because I believed the Secret Garden Musk Climber there had died so the tangle at the back is even worse than at the front. SGMC flowers outside the photo. The original apricot roses in this bed have died because of the competition, Buff Beauty and Abraham Darby. Only Floral Fairy Tale lives precariously to the right.


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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: catspa on 01.15.2013 at 05:15 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Jackie, How beautiful! Here is my joyful tangle: one corner, 5 climbers, photo is from late April 2012. They are not TOTALLY intermingled yet, but no doubt will be, because I don't referee much -- dive underneath once in a while to cut out dead wood. The pink rose (sent as Old Blush bush form and is obviously not, being now 15' tall and an avid climber; maybe Cl. Old Blush? but the flowers are only about 1 1/2" across; blooms every month of the year anyway) is totally enmeshed in the whitest rose, which is Mme. Alfred Carriere. In front of them is Celine Forestier and, just visible in the upper left are the leaves of Reve d'Or, the newest member of the group, which has been stealthily implicating her canes into the crowd. On the right is Francesca. She and Celine are lately embracing each other across the path.

I, too, very much enjoy this sort of arrangement, which here is all under a huge old pepper tree on the outskirts of the garden (Mme. Alfred is now at least 20' up into the pepper tree)



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RE: Roses Growing Together.. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jacqueline3 on 01.15.2013 at 02:12 pm in Antique Roses Forum

OOps - here is the picture that was supposed to be with the above.


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RE: Roses "J" (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: the_dark_lady on 01.11.2013 at 10:57 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Dear Sidos-House,
Thank you very much for your kind comments! My yard is also very big and I had and still have difficult time creating interesting landscape.
Do you have any mature vegetation in your garden? What kind? Trees, conifers, grasses, any stonework? This usually helps a lot tying elements together.
Mine was absolutely bare, just grass and weeds. Seven acres of them!:)
I don't have many pictures with garden views. Here is what I found in my albums. I am planning to take more garden shots this year.

I understand, this is not much. Hope to do more landscape shots this year.

This post was edited by the_dark_lady on Fri, Jan 11, 13 at 11:34


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RE: More questions for the experienced rose gardeners.... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: roseseek on 01.04.2013 at 08:59 pm in Roses Forum

1. Do you still dormant spray your potted roses that never get disease? I use only horticultural oil not lime sulphur, so is it necessary?
Dormant spray is to (hopefully) prevent or control disease. If these don't get sprayed and are generally healthy enough without the spray, why spray them? If it makes you feel better to spray them, go for it, otherwise, you should be able to skip it.

2. If there is a light layer of pine mulch bark left over from last year in potted roses and the soil is low, what do you think if I simply cover the old mulch with a layer of soil + compost then cover that with another layer of fresh bark?

I'd dump the old mulch in a flower bed to continue composting and becoming part of the soil. I like to add soil underneath the potted plants to raise the crown where it was originally, then add to the sides and any necessary on top, then replace the mulch. My goal is to have the plant positioned in the pot as it was originally.

3. When planting roses near trees or other shrubs how do you keep the tree or shrub roots from taking over the new soil meant for the roses and stunt the roses?

That depends upon what kind of tree you're referring to. For massive root systems such as White Birch (gawd-awful weeds to plant around!), there is little you CAN do as those roots can find their way through block walls. For those with less massive root sytems, I haven't found it to be that much of an issue as long as the rose in question is a rampant grower.

4. How much does composted horse manure smell and for how long? Does it attract flies?

Composted horse manure has little smell other than "earthy" to me. Fresh horse manure smells like a sweaty horse for about three days, then most of the scent dissipates. I have NEVER had horse manure of any kind attract flies, and I've used a couple of tons of the stuff over the past thirty years.

5. Besides looking for rain tolerant roses is there any way to tell if a rose's blooms will survive lawn sprinklers, still open, not ball and turn mushy? Anyone have particular cultivars they recommend if roses will get sprayed lawn sprinklers?

Your greatest probability of success with this is to select roses with "heavy petal substance". Those with very stiff, waxy petals. The "substance" is a waxy cuticle, skin, over the petals which is what makes the specific varieties which possess it excellent for exhibition and florist work. It's also one characteristic which prevents scent in blooms. The heavier, stiffer and waxier (more "substance") the petal, the longer it lasts in a vase, the less scent it has, the more abuse/handling/refrigeration it can withstand with less damage, and the lower the potential for water to spoil it. Not that water WON'T spoil it, just not as easily.

6. Last summer when I deadheaded the roses I just pinched and twisted the blooms off instead of cutting the cane down to an outward facing 5 leaflet side bud. The roses grew new foliage on canes too thin to be productive. Is this something only done with Tea roses or other antiques roses?

There seems to me to be something else at work here than just snapping off the spent flowers. I have traditionally snapped off the spent flowers in my garden at the point of abscission for many years with no real ill effects. Anything which is too thin to support the expected flowers gets taken care of at the usual pruning time. What kinds of roses have you experienced this issue with? Were they situated where they received sufficient sun?

7. I've discovered that some of the pots (24" wide x 18" high) I'm using only have a capacity of 17 gallons. Is this enough for a rose that grows 4-5 feet tall?

Perhaps...but only with excellent drainage and religious watering, and insulation from extreme sun/heat exposure directly to the pot walls. If those pots are protected from extreme sun directly on them, and/or if you're in a milder, more coastal environment rather than an inland valley heat type, your chances are better. If not, no, extreme heat/sun will probably yield problems due to cooked roots and quickly dried out root balls. With roses, usually, if you have five feet of top growth, you have about that much root under it. For that much root to be squeezed into that size soil mass, there is probably not a lot of water holding capacity left. I'd also expect the pot sides to be lined with a fairly thick mass of root tissue, right where extremes in temperatures can more quickly and easily affect them adversely. Something the size you suggest is probably going to perform a lot better in the ground, presuming decent drainage and other acceptable cultural practices. Kim


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RE: Oh the bunnies!! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: wirosarian on 01.05.2013 at 03:36 pm in Roses Forum

Forgot to add, I agree with professorroush that your roses will come back as you have the graft buried. In my z4 area, tender roses like HT's often only have 4-6" or less live cane in the Spring but come back just fine if they were healthy going into the Winter. A tip I use in bringing thse roses back is to give them some extra high nitrogen fertilizer for their 1st feeding. I used 1/4C per bush of lawn fertilizer (make sure its NOT weed-n-feed), 28-0-4 was the stuff I used last Spring plus some organic stuff. This will bring the plant back & then go back to your normal rose fertilizer for the rest of the season.


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RE: Clemantis. Any recommendations? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: plantloverkat on 04.16.2012 at 11:06 am in Antique Roses Forum

When I lived in the Dallas area, I had success growing the texensis Hybrid Duchess of Albany. I purchased it as a very small liner sized plant, and it took several years to get going. I grew it in all day sun, as that was the exposure most of my yard had.

After I moved further south and did some research, I learned that the viticella hybrids are known for being quite heat tolerant. I bought a used copy of John Howells' book "Trouble-Free Clematis: the Viticellas", and was inspired to try many in this class. These are all hard pruned in early spring, so it isn't hard to remember which pruning group they are. Most are taller growers, and they can be cut back after the first flush of blossoms to regrow and bloom again. They have smaller flowers than the large flowered group, but they are produced in large quantities.

Emilia Plater is by far the most vigorous for me - it has pale violet blue flowers.

Betty Corning also has pale blue flowers, but fragrant and bell shaped instead.

Galore is a dusky/slatey purple color, and has been very quick to establish for me.

Etoile Violette is similar to Galore, but with slightly smaller flowers which have more red in the purple.

Justa is a smaller growing medium purplish blue, but so far hasn't bloomed as much for me as the others (this is only its second year).

Little Bas has dusky/slatey purple smaller flowers which are a wider flaring bell shape in profusion

Huldine is a taller growing white - mine was new last year

Maria Cornelia is also a white but with smaller flowers shaped something like a dogwood blossom - also new last year, it has been quicker to establish than Huldine for me and is flowering now

Walenburg - most photos show it as being red with a purplish back, but for me it only has some cerise in the cooler weather (now) and becomes more purple in hotter weather (mid summer). Its flowers hang downward a bit (think nodding tea rose) and it is flowering prolifically right now on the north side of my house.

The herbaceous group (also hard pruned in spring) has also done well for me. They usually don't hold on to support by themselves, but rather lean on their neighbors or sprawl somewhat. If you want them to have more support, you can use a wire cage or a grow through plant support hoop.

Petit Faucon - shorter growing to about 3 - 4 feet with really lovely darker purpley blue flowers. This needs support of some kind (I use a short obelisk) and will repeat flower all summer even if you never remove the decorative seed heads or give it a second cut back in summer. Mine grows next to Tradescant.

Inspiration - a medium pink that tends toward lavender pink in early spring, and more basic medium pink later. It is a leaner or sprawler, and will grow to about 6 feet tall. It is quite a prolific bloomer, and will continue to flower whether cut back after the first flowering or not. Mine grows with a young Blossomtime rose, and I grow the coleus India Frills at its feet.

Pink Delight - my oldest one in this group. This grows to about 6 foot tall and is supported by an obelisk. It has a wider somewhat bell shaped flower in a medium pink color.


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RE: Clemantis. Any recommendations? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: harryshoe on 04.16.2012 at 02:13 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Betty Corning and Venosa Violacea grow great here. These are Viticelli types which generally means smaller flowers. However, they are extremely vigorous, bloom over a long season and have resistance to wilt.

This is Betty completely covering my 8' arbor.



Venosa Violacea



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CLEMATIS..great rose companions!

posted by: celestialrose on 09.30.2006 at 12:28 am in Rose Gallery Forum

Hello everyone!

There was a recent thread about good companions for roses, and I wanted to share photos of some of my clematis. Some grow up or around my old garden roses, and others just grow up pillars or tripods in the garden and some scramble up any rate, they add color & dimension to my rose garden and yard. I have more pics of more clematis, so since this is LONG I will do this in two posts...thanks for looking!

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RE: Can I ask about Clematis? (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: harryshoe on 06.01.2012 at 10:14 am in Roses Forum

Although I'm in a very different zone, I want to second Hoov's recommendation that you try Viticella types. Here, they are much more vigorous, less likely to wilt and flower over a longer period.

Betty Corning with Westerland Rose



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RE: Rose/Clematis combination (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: judith5bmontreal on 07.06.2008 at 09:45 pm in Roses Forum

Hi again! Went out tonight and took a few more photos of clematis with roses. Unfortunately, a couple of my old roses (albas) are finished blooming, so I can't show you those. However, here are some more:

Westerland & Semu
Westerland & Semu

Jacques Cartier & Jackmani
Jacques Cartier & Jackmani

Perle d'azur & Snow Pavement (buds) Sorry, very chlorotic!
Perle D'azur & Snow Pavement

Limelight & Harlow Carr
Limelight & Harlow Carr

I really have tried to order pink clematis (instead of just blue all the time), but I have received three mislabeled plants (Jackmani's) that were supposed to be Nelly Moser and Hagley Hybrid



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RE: Rose/Clematis combination (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: harryshoe on 07.08.2008 at 07:36 am in Roses Forum

Mixed bed outside my bedroom features Venosa Violacea and Gypsy Queen flanking the window:

Westerland with Betty Corning

Arbor with Westerland and Betty Corning

Its nice to see some of the group are growing Venosa Violacea. She's a great clematis.


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RE: Moonflower Giant White (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: littleonefb on 05.19.2010 at 11:49 am in Vines Forum

Give them a try. You really have nothing to lose but a few seeds and the time starting the seeds.

I'm in zone 5 about 20 minutes from the NH border and mine bloom in August and keep going right through till the frost gets them.

I've never been able to keep MG or moonflower vines over winter in my house. The dry heat is just too much for them and don't have space for light setup indoors.

I soak the seeds over night for about 12 hours before sowing them. I don't do anything else to the seeds.

I put the seeds in one of the little ziplock baggies, fill with fairly warm water, zip them closed and leave them for about 4 hours. Then drain out all the water and add more fairly warm water again and leave them till the next day when I'm ready to sow the seeds.

They don't germinate until the weather gets warm and we've had some really crazy cool temps so I would think with the warm weather predicted after today, you will get germination within a week or 2 and then they will grow quickly.

I grow my moonflower vines, the same packet as yours in 10 inch pots with miracle grow potting mix for the soil and put a bit of bark mulch on the top to hold out weeds and keep moisture in the pot and place them in full sun beside my back step railings and twine the vines up the railing.

Even last year, with the cold, raw summer that we had from June through July with mostly rain, my moonflower vines bloomed from mid August till Oct.

The only thing I don't get is seeds from them for next year.

You should fill a 10 inch pot with miracle grow potting mix and soak the soil well and sow one seed in the pot. Cover the soil with either some plastic wrap or a plastic and put it in the sun.
This way, you will be ahead of the game in potting the vine when it germinates.
You could put 2-3 seeds in one pot and then move the vines to a pot of their own once they germinate, also.

But, I'd go for it, As I said, you have nothing to lose by trying them and at best you get flowers, at worst you have a pretty vine.



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RE: anyone help with color wheel (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 12.07.2012 at 09:36 am in Roses Forum

I agree that the blue sky and the green leaves are dominant, but I have seen some very clever gardens where the colors were chosen in a calculated way. I would divide my roses into saturated colors and less saturated colors. The saturated colors I have are placed carefully these days in the areas that I want to be focal points. The rest is a blend of pastel and less saturated hues.

In a very limited fashion do I use complimentary schemes unless it is red/green seasonally. I prefer to focus on the light dark contrasts like a black and white drawing or picture has. One complaint of HTs is the look of the canes in the lower sections of the plant. Planting against a wall of foliage the same green cancels that out visually for me. I add a lighter green at the base for contrast and they are almost gone.

Susan is smart to consider the color of her wall. Something that large is going to be a dominant feature. That much color is going to reflect back into the garden. I am trying to get enough bricks together to cover a large wall because the light color is so dominant in all my pictures. I think the space will look larger when that warm color is not coming forward visually. A nice cool dark red will recede in the shade of the eaves. I went and looked at houses that had brick, cool color like medium blues, or large dark green foliage on south facing walls and it makes a difference. What I'm after is perfecting the view from the seating area as I look toward the house. The view out the window is great but it's the view the other direction that needs work.

I love the days when we get a truly blue sky as most of the time, my area gets a very pale blue and like I said, my white roses just vanish against it. Sunset is the most dramatic time that the sky influences the color in my garden. Yellow, pink and peach roses glow and red roses have a beautiful luster. Whites get a pearly shine and as the greens become subdued, they stand out in contrast.

The big feature I would love to have as a background would be a pond. I love roses and water together. On blue sky days, there is nothing better.


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RE: anyone help with color wheel (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: donaldvancouver on 12.05.2012 at 08:29 pm in Roses Forum

There's a resource on the Web called Kuler. It's mainly intended for designers, I believe, but it really helps to show you how colours look when combined in different ways. It's a bit overwhelming but very inspiring.

There's also a terrific iPhone app called Color Expert that lets you manipulate a colour wheel. You can photograph something- a wall you like, say, or a flower or a paint chip- and it will suggest complimentary colours and allow you to combine and manipulate them.


Here is a link that might be useful: Kuler


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RE: anyone help with color wheel (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kittymoonbeam on 12.05.2012 at 03:56 pm in Roses Forum

Here's what I know-

The color wheel is a guide to mixing pigments. Pigments are derived from minerals and plant compounds. If you mix lots together you get brownish greyish color. If you mix them all together you get black in theory but I find mostly you get dark browns unless you use mostly blues and violets or deep reds.

To see the pure colors of nature, a prism is usually used to take "white" light and get the distinct colors of the rainbow from it. The colors you see are what you start with. So if you have a blue color similar to a prism blue, then you can begin to modify it by adding other pigments.

A color wheel organizes the colors so that relationships are easily seen. The 3 main colors are blue red and yellow (primary)and from them can be made other (secondary) colors by mixing them together. Orange lies between red and yellow because if you mix red and yellow pigments, you can create a variety of orange colors. The same is true for greens and purples/violets. You cannot create primary colors by using secondary colors unless by magic you were able to extract one of the primary colors out of a secondary color .

The colors next to the secondary colors are tertiary colors which are like secondaries but with more influence of a particular primary ( a red orange or a blue green for example.

As far as gardening goes, you can use color relationships to create themes and moods. The color wheel is sometimes thought of as warm and cool with the warmer reds, yellows, oranges and warm greens being the warm part and everything else belonging to the cool part.
Also colors being near to each other on the wheel are said to be more harmonious than those opposing each other. Colors across from each other are said to be complimentary and highly visually stimulating. Red/green was always my favorite but my sister loves a good yellow/violet in the garden.

Any color scheme can be made more harmonious by adding white into all the colors present ( a pastel garden of many kinds of colors) or by adding black into all the colors present. Deep dark foliage and blooms of every color.

Lighter brighter and warmer colors appear to come forward and cooler,darker more muted colors appear to recede. A bright yellow rose jumps out against cool dark green foliage or a dark stone wall. A cool red or pink rose blends in with a deep green hedge or dark wood fence. It stands out against a warm background of yellow dasies or light warm green foliage. Any bright or dark color jumps out against a white stucco wall or picket fence.

If you want a color in the garden to jump out then surround it with something different. It could be lighter or darker or a color directly across on the color wheel. If you want colors to blend quietly, use colors with similar amounts of white in them or all deep colors or else colors that are neighbors on the color wheel like red, burgundy,pinks with purple in them purple and even blue purple. An all blue garden with green leaves is quiet and restful because blue and green are close to each other as green is directly related to blue.

Often I see that a garden will have a blend of colors where the colors are all related in some way to achieve harmony and then there will be an added zing of some color or group of related colors to add spice or be a focal point.

I saw a very nice garden with all yellow and white flowers with some pale orange and pale pink flowers to make it interesting. The contrast was some red and hot pink flowers placed here and there.

A holiday favorite is either a majority of red and green with a bit of white for emphasis or else a majority of green and white with the red used for contrast.

My own garden has areas of green and white only to which I add one or two colors if I want to make focal points, and an area of pastel blends of many colors. I like to group roses that are warm together and group the cool ones together with pink and white roses forming the transitions between the groups. I like it better in my photos than when I used to plant them randomly although that had a fun confetti feeling to it.

Contrast matters. I have a wonderful white climber going up a wire but because the sky is always very light blue most days I only see green leaves and the white blooms are lost looking across the yard or as I look up into the sky at it. The purple clematis growing in that climber always jumps out visually and the poor roses are practically invisible.


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RE: Greenhouse (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: mad_gallica on 11.08.2012 at 12:33 pm in Antique Roses Forum

My experiences with those I've grown.

mallow - self seeds around. Make sure you want it before putting it in a garden.

dill - same as mallow, but does have the advantage of being edible.

lady's mantle - grows slowly from seeds. Seeds around a bit.

lychnis - some varieties are weedy. Others are reasonbly well behaved. Easy to grow from seeds without any special care.

agastache - some varieties are very rot prone, and difficult in places it rains. Generally easy from seed.

nepetas - not a plant I would grow from seed unless I wasn't at all picky about what shows up. The selected clones are distinct enough that it is a good idea to buy exactly what you want, then divide for more plants.

balloon flower - currently very difficult to find seeds of the older, taller types. However, if you can find seed pods of what you want, they do grow reasonable true from seed. Easy, and will seed around if not deadheaded.

bergenia - tried this once and didn't get anywhere. Don't really know why, but it may very well be a bit tricky.

mugwort - weed, weed weed. Be very, very careful in introducing this one to a garden.

cleome - easy, will seed around.

petunia - will seed around once it is in the garden, but not the easiest plant to grow from seed.

lamb's ear - 'good' ones are vegetatively propagated.

Columbine is another good, easy to grow from seed, plant.

If there are plant swaps in your area, those can be good places to get the more common plants.


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If you were moving and could only take 5 with you...

posted by: moongardengirl on 01.05.2010 at 12:08 pm in Clematis Forum

Which ones would you take?

My Pick
1)Venosa Violcea
2)Betty Corning
4)Polish Spirit

Also I LOVE "Apple Blossom" but live in zone 4, what would you recommend that looks close to that but will live here?


clipped on: 11.30.2012 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2012 at 12:07 pm

RE: Clemantis. Any recommendations? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: alameda on 04.16.2012 at 09:53 am in Antique Roses Forum

At the recent Tyler Azalea Trail, I fell in love with Candida and plan to order it. I presently grow and love Mrs. Chomondeley [pronounced chumley], Fireworks, Niobe [heavy bloomer], Violet Charm and several I have lost the tags on. Here is a photo of Candida.



clipped on: 11.30.2012 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2012 at 10:28 pm

Roses and Clematis combinations

posted by: dublinbay on 06.15.2011 at 01:25 am in Rose Gallery Forum

I didn't realize how many rose-clematis combinations I had until I looked at the pics my daughter took of my gardens on Memorial Day. Here's a selection from her pics.

Well-Being (Harkness shrub) and clematis Durandii (scrambler).

Here's a close-up of Well-Being. I love how the color of the buds contrasts with the actual flower. It blooms in clusters.

This pic shows the red-and-white portion of my garden, starring Dublin Bay Climber and clematis Alba Luxurians. That's Eutin (floribunda) in the bottom right-hand corner.

Here are some old favorites: Buff Beauty (hybrid musk) backed by clematis Jackmani (they are out back by the alley--about 5 Jackmani out there).

Clematis Venosa Violacea is also on the back alley fence, mixed in with the Jackmani. I really like Venosa Violacea.

I had trouble placing clematis Prince Charles--had to move him three times before he found a home he liked with the climber Golden Showers.

In the background behind Prince Charles and Golden Showers is one of my favorites--oh, oh, it's clematis Princess Diana. (I'll leave the jokes to you!)

Too bad the hybrid musk Jeri Jennings wasn't blooming more fulsomely while my daughter was visiting, but you can see how charmingly the clematis Rooguchi (scrambler) grows up through Jeri's sprays.

This is supposed to be the combo of climber Sombreuil and clematis Rhapsody (I think), but Sombreuil is still young and wasn't blooming yet. She's white--should be quite dramatic next to Rhapsody's rich purple, don't you think?

Just to make sure I didn't get too carried away with the clematis pics, let me add one more rose--my newest one: the polyantha Mother's Day. This is her very first bloom--she is so small and cute.

Hope you enjoyed my rose-clematis combos. I have a few others, but they were not in bloom. I'll post them later.



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RE: If you were moving and could only take 5 with you... (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: twrosz on 03.03.2010 at 08:42 pm in Clematis Forum

Because the following are not always easy to come by, these are the ones I'd be taking with me ...

Perle d' Azur

Florida Sieboldii 'Vienetta'

Kiri Te Kanawa

Jackmanii Superba ... often mislabeled!


Princess Diana ... that makes six, but could not leave this beauty behind!

... oh, and then there's my seedling!




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RE: If you were moving and could only take 5 with you... (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: gardengal48 on 03.03.2010 at 10:44 am in Clematis Forum

zyperiris, I am on my third 'Apple Blossom' :-) Not because they haven't done well - only because I can't imagine my garden without one! The first had to to be removed when I relandscaped my front yard and transplanting was not an option (much too large to move). I immediately replanted another in a different location. And now that I have moved to a new garden, 'Apple Blossom' was the first clem I purchased for my new location.

This can get to be a big vine - 25-30' is not out of line. And it is evergreen, so can get heavy and will need a sturdy support system. It blooms very early - mine is just starting to open now. Buds are a deep pink and open to blush pink flowers -- LOTS of them! And it is moderately fragrant as well. It is not prone to wilt and is more shade tolerant than many choices. And since it is a type I, no pruning is necessary. Should you need to control size, you should prune immediately after flowering.

This is what it looks like in full bloom:

There is also a white flowered armandii, commonly sold as 'Snowdrift'. It tends to be a bit more widely available than 'Apple Blossom'.


clipped on: 11.30.2012 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2012 at 07:22 pm

RE: If you were moving and could only take 5 with you... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: organicmickie on 01.07.2010 at 10:53 am in Clematis Forum

MARMORI - I never hear anyone talking about her - but SHE NEVER gives up! She is one of those 'sterile' Estonian cv's. Love her!

MULTI-BLUE- Blooms forever; beautiful form

JOSEPHINE - Blooms forever, bee-utiful bloom!

TANGUTICA - Unusual, bright and cheerful

MARGOT KOSTER - blooms forever

(and when you weren't looking I would sneak some more; Arabella, Roguuci and Alionushka amoung them...)


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RE: If you were moving and could only take 5 with you... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 01.05.2010 at 04:40 pm in Clematis Forum

I would chose any of the following US native clematis since these clematis are so underutilized and the fact that I love the bell shaped flowers of viorna, glaucophylla, addisonii, pitcheri, texensis, crispa, and socialis. Okay that is 7 but I couldn't exclude any of them since they are natives! LOL

Of the non-US natives, I would choose Betty Corning due to her fragrant blooms and vigorous growth, Tie Dye for its unusual psychedelic coloration, fusca violacea for its chubby dark purplish brown bell shaped flowers, Duchess of Albany for its vigorousness and pink colored flowers, and Alba luxurians for its white flowers tipped with green in early spring.


clipped on: 11.30.2012 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2012 at 07:19 pm

RE: If you were moving and could only take 5 with you... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardengal48 on 01.05.2010 at 02:12 pm in Clematis Forum

Boy, questions like this are SO tough to answer :-))

First, I wouldn't take any with me unless they are already growing in a container - an established clematis is not an easy plant to transplant successfully and they are not at all hard to replace for minimal expense. Second, my choices would be different based on my climate and my preferences.

Here's my 5 absolute 'must-haves' for my garden:
C. armandii, preferrably 'Apple Blossom'
C. montana, any but 'Tetrarose' is very high on my list.
C. cirrhosa var. balearica
C. viticella 'Etoile Violette'
'Harlow Carr'

I don't have any suggestions for a replacement for you for 'Apple Blossom'.....the closest I could come would be one of the montanas but they're not going to work well in zone 4 either. You might want to look at C. viticella 'Tango' or triternata 'Rubromarginata' (which is definitely #6 on my list!). Small, pinkish flowers and a heavy bloom but a different bloom season and no fragrance to speak of.


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RE: Clemantis. Any recommendations? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: cziga on 04.22.2012 at 07:49 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I tried Belle of Woking last year but our dog sat on it and it never quite recovered. I'd love to try it again, the colour looks beautiful. It is good to know that it might take time to establish itself ...

I have "Clair de Lune" which is light lavender/white and quite beautiful. Pale during the day, almost glows in the evening.
Clematis - Claire de Lune (day)

Clematis - Claire de Lune (night)

I also have Minuet, small flowers with more purple on them. Very vigorous for me.
Clematis - Minuet


clipped on: 11.29.2012 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2012 at 11:38 pm

RE: Clemantis. Any recommendations? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: altorama on 04.21.2012 at 04:28 am in Antique Roses Forum

This is maybe more purple than what you want, but it is a species hybrid, very easy to grow. It's called Roguchi.
Blooms pretty much all summer. Might even start in late spring. Pretty seed heads in the fall. You don't need to prune it, unless you want to.



clipped on: 11.29.2012 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2012 at 11:36 pm

RE: Climbing roses with Clematis (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hoovb on 04.01.2010 at 12:29 pm in Roses Forum

Clematis can develop BIG root systems so don't plant them too close to the base of the rose, lest they overwhelm the rose's less substantial root system. They need plenty of water and don't ever let the root system dry out completely. Repeat: never never let the root system dry out completely. These are not drought tolerant plants!

Clematis are grouped by how they are pruned. Type I is not-pruned-much, Type II is headed back/tip pruned, Type III is cut almost to the ground every year.

The Viticella types (pruning type III) are the best for warmer climates. They work particularly well with roses because you cut them nearly to the ground in late winter, and you can easily pull them out of the rose.

In spring they begin a huge growth spurt, 2 meters or more in just a few weeks, so at that time, lots of fast-acting nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as flower buds appear, no fertilizer at all until after they finish their flush of bloom. Then trim the tips back lightly and deadhead, and another round of fertilizer. The light trimming and fertilizer stimilates another round of bloom. You can repeat this several times depending on the length of your growing season, the maturity of the clematis, the weather, etc.

Here the very easiest one to try first is Jackmanii, which is widely available and very common, but still beautiful. It is a deep purple which looks great with 'Laguna'.

Others that have done well here are 'Perle d'Azur', 'Polish Spirit', 'Etoile Violette', 'Venosa Violacaea'. 'Perle d'Azur' is spectacular with 'Laguna'. 'Venosa Violacaea' is particularly beautiful.

Check out the Clematis forum, excellent info there.

Here is a link that might be useful: A blog entry on how fast Clems grow in spring


clipped on: 11.29.2012 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 11.29.2012 at 11:20 pm

My Swedish garden in July

posted by: mariannese on 11.10.2012 at 06:13 am in Antique Roses Forum

On looking through this year's garden pictures I realize that there are very few that are not close-ups of individual plants. I kept this photo my 13-year-old granddaughter tried to take of her little sister because it shows a part of the south side of my garden.


clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:43 pm

RE: tips/tricks to combining roses with roses? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: harmonyp on 11.12.2012 at 11:56 am in Antique Roses Forum

I think the best tip is to try to find out for your zone, what size each rose will mature to. Perhaps easier said than done, but at least get some idea. My top reason for moving roses has been size mismatch for the area or surrounding plants.

Color combos are so personal. If you have enough room, it's fun to play with different combos you think will work. Personally I love Red/Orange/Yellow combos (which is why I'm starting to love mixing them up with Canna Lillies). For me, Lavendar goes with just about anything - with peach/apricot, yellows, pinks. Pinks look good with one another. Blends are fun to bring two different colors together. But in the end, now, when I have a new rose, I just feel lucky to find a spot to put it in, and a spot is a spot is a spot. Planning out the window.

Singles, doubles, high pedal counts - to me they all look wonderful in any combo. I think it'd be hard for me to be displeased with any combo though so perhaps I'm not a good judge...


clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:42 pm

RE: tips/tricks to combining roses with roses? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bart_2010 on 11.12.2012 at 04:43 am in Antique Roses Forum

Ingrid and Melissa have given excellent advice, I think. I myself am still in the "trial and ERROR" phase,but I've discovered a couple things that I'll pass on ,though they are probably just re-iterating what these two ladies have said already.
I agree that it's best to avoid two "reds" together. I put the word red in quotes, because this colour is difficult to define (and photograph, for that matter). Some people define certain deep pinks as red,for example (I believe that on HMF, John Cabot is defined as "red",yet for me,it's a luscious deep purply-pink. Or, for example, on the Vintage site,Alexander Girault is defined as "true red",, yet for me, there again, it's a unique and very beautiful deep pink). I made the mistake years ago of putting Super Excelsa near Barni's Pretty Pink (this latter is,to my eye, more a carmine pinky red than an actual "pink" in colour)...AWFUL!!!
Another hideous mistake I made was: I thought to make a warm orangey-yellow zone, and I put Westerland in amongst some Teas.Dreadful! In this case, it wasn't really just the loud, modern colour of Westerland that was out of place, it was the style of the plant; amonst the graceful and delicate bearing of the Teas, it looked like the proverbial elephant in a china shop.I've moved Westerland up on a hill, in a corner,surrounding it with Clair Matin (my sister's idea) and Climbing Mrs Sam Mcgredy,hoping that these two will soften it's effect. I am beginning to think that I am not too fond of bright oranges; I've always known that I don't care at all for "cardinal", "fire-engine"-type reds.It can be very difficult to forsee the actual effect that two colours will have together in real life,so don't worry about it too much. Roses are easy to move, really, as long as you do it when the plant is dormant, so do your best at guessing what you'll like, and if something doesn't work for you, move the offender out next autumn! regards, bart


clipped on: 11.12.2012 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:41 pm

RE: tips/tricks to combining roses with roses? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: melissa_thefarm on 11.12.2012 at 02:28 am in Antique Roses Forum

I tend to group the once-blooming roses of European origin together, and the warm-climate roses together. In the case of hybridized classes--Hybrid Perpetuals in particular--it depends on which side of their ancestry they lean towards. Portlands look very much like the Europeans, with their rough matte foliage, as do such HPs as 'Reine des Violettes' and 'Marchesa Boccella', and so they go with the Gallicas, Albas, Damasks, and so on. An upright smooth-foliaged HP like 'Baron Girod de l'Ain', on the other hand, that bears a distinct resemblance to a Hybrid Tea, I could place with either group. Hybrid Musks and English roses, with their smooth stems and leaves, look best with Teas, Chinas, and most ramblers and climbers. So I like best to keep foliage types together, but mix different habits (upright, arching, thicket-forming) and colors. Whether a rose is once-blooming or repeat blooming doesn't matter that much to me. Oh, yes: I think your Polyanthas would go well with Teas--I place mine together.
Like Ingrid, I like to mix different bloom types, singles, doubles, and semidoubles. I like to mix colors, though I tend to dislike hard contrasts, and of course not all colors go with all other colors.
People have different tastes in color, so I can't say anything about putting red roses next to white ones or combining yellow and pink, but there are a couple of things I have found out. One is that combining roses of the "same" color is risky: there are many different reds, for example, and two red roses side by side have an excellent chance of clashing horribly. And too many roses of rich hues together give an unpleasantly heavy effect. I found this out when I planted a line of Gallicas, with leaden results.
This is elementary, but I could see myself making this mistake: keep your smaller roses in front of your taller ones, and place small roses where they won't be overwhelmed, visually or physically, by the behemoths.
I adore the once-blooming roses and have a lot of them. I can't think of many of them, if any, that could be comfortably grown in pots. For seasonal interest I rely partly on companion planting, such as bulbs in spring, perennials for texture and variety of flower. I always found that I loved the whole cycle of growth of the once-blooming roses: the new growth in spring, the development of the buds, which are often fragrant in their own right, the ripening of hips and a certain modest fall color afterward, the naked canes in winter. These are plants to be appreciated as shrubs, and not only for their flowers.


clipped on: 11.12.2012 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:41 pm

RE: tips/tricks to combining roses with roses? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ingrid_vc on 11.11.2012 at 09:01 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Susan, I think everyone probably has their own way of arranging their roses based on their tastes and what kind of look they're trying to achieve, and it may also vary in different parts of the garden. I can only tell you what I did and what pleases me.

After several false starts I found out that strong colors didn't appeal to me and looked too artificial against the hilly and rocky background. I took out yellows and strong apricots, although I still have Cl. Lady Hillingdon growing against the house wall and the soft apricot Miss Atwood in my row of tea roses that flank a walkway. Generally speaking I mix singles, doubles and semidoubles. My very large Mutabilis is against the house wall with shorter roses like Souvenir de la Malmaison, Potter and Moore, Sister Elizabeth, Mme. Dore, Mr. Bluebird, Blue Mist and Burgundy Iceberg in front. These are interspersed with sea lavender, cerise pelargoniums, day lilies and reblooming irises in various colors. Keeping the colors soft and harmonious allows me to have variety in the shapes of the flowers and different heights of the roses, and everything blends quite nicely.

In the back of the house I have an area where the roses are various shades of lighter and darker pinks and lavenders such as Bishop's Castle, The Dark Lady, Pretty Jessica, Baptiste Lafay, Leveson Gower, Mme. Dore and Mr. Bluebird. Other plantings include two lavender crape myrtles in the back, four junipers flanking them to give some substance when the crape myrtles lose their leaves, reblooming irises and sea lavender.

What's important is to be clear in your mind what kind of feeling you want your garden to have and then to plant according to that theme. It takes trial and error (much error in my case), but it's also fun and challenging.



clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 02:39 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:40 pm

RE: Seil...... Wintering Pots (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: JessicaBe on 09.18.2012 at 01:17 pm in Antique Roses Forum

No we don't have a garage or a shed. But we do have a little greenhouse (I don't know how long its gonna stay up, but it doesn't look that good anymore hehe) would it be to cold for the roses to stay in there? What I have in pots right now is Baronne Henriette Snoy (tea) and Archiduchesse Elizabeth d'Autriche (Hybrid Perpetual)


clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 02:36 pm

pics of my fence gardens

posted by: auntyara on 09.21.2012 at 04:17 pm in Cottage Garden Forum


my bush petunias are taking over.
I'm so tempted to pull them out cause I want to plant mums, but they look so pretty. Yet wild.
:) Laura


clipped on: 11.16.2012 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 11.16.2012 at 10:31 am

RE: Landscaping overhaul...Advice needed! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: tsugajunkie on 10.26.2012 at 06:09 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Nice house.

To make the bed that would include the tree on the right and protect it's roots, I'd do the following:

1. Cut the grass as short as you can.
2. Mark the bed out with a hose or rope until the shape fits your design ideas.
3. Cover the bed with cardboard or at least 10 sheets of newspaper (wet it down, if need be to prevent blowing).
4. Cover the newspaper with whatever organic material you can get your hands on. I used mostly leaves with a dusting of compost to hold them down, mulch works as well.
5. Leave it sit over winter and next spring you can plant right through it. The grass will be dead.

Unfortunately, the best time to start this is yesterday (leaves are available now).

I agree with ggg about a narrow conifer on the right. The Alaskan Cedar 'Green Arrow' comes to mind.


BTW- all these beds were done with the above mentioned procedure.



clipped on: 11.15.2012 at 06:33 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2012 at 06:33 pm

RE: What's the most foolproof antique rose in your area? (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: cath41 on 11.14.2012 at 11:58 am in Antique Roses Forum


Here we have outrageous black spot, rare mildew and no rust. My personal experience on clay subsoil: The best roses have been Mme. Plantier, White Rose of York and Stanwell Perpetual with no black spot and good bloom. Souvenir de la Malmaison, Zephrine Drouhin and Gruss an Aachen have minimal black spot and not much bloom. In their defense, they are in shady locations. Cecile Brunner and Blush Noisette have bloomed well in full sun. It has been a long time since I have seen them but I do not remember them having black spot so if they did, it wasn't much.

If I were you and wanted a more complete survey of roses that grow well in this area, I would contact: Garden of Roses of Legend and Romance in Wooster, Ohio, Telephone Kelly King @330-263=3612 or email her @



clipped on: 11.15.2012 at 06:04 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2012 at 06:04 pm

RE: Greenhouse (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: floridarosez9 on 11.08.2012 at 03:56 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I once had sweet peas crawling all over my living room floor that I started under lights when it was too hot outside to start them. Hubby didn't find it amusing. Larkspur are to me the loveliest old fashioned flower and can be started directly in the garden in what used to be called a scatter garden. So can poppies, baby's breath, annual phlox, Queen Anne's lace, cleome, gallardia, rudbeckia, cosmos, catchfly. All reseed every year, but larkspur will come back single flowers.

Ones I find do better in flats are lupine, hollyhock (Summer Carnival blooms first year and has gorgeous double blooms), allysum, nasturtium, viola, pansy, dahlia.

Common petunias are fairly easy to start, but the hybrids aren't and I also get a low sprout rate with snapdragons.


clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 08:22 pm

Thanks Harmonyp, good tip on chemical fertillizer (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Strawberryhill on 11.10.2012 at 12:29 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Thanks, Harmonyp, very good tip on chem. fertilizer for well-drainage. I don't use chemical fertilizer for my heavy clay, fertile, high in salts with poor drainage ... but I witnessed good result with chemical fertilizer in pots, with good drainage. Annie Laurie McDowell was blooming like mad with alfalfa meal, but she wasn't growing much even with de-budding. So I gave it chem./organic fertilizer 10-5-4, put her in partial shade, and she tripled the size within a month in a well-drained pot. I made a mistake using the same stuff on my tomato plants in the ground, they became huge at 4' x 6'.

For well-drained pots or sandy soil, chemical fertilizer make plants grow fast. It's the high-nitrogen in chemical fertilizer, compare to low NPK of horse manure at 0.7 0.3 0.6, and NPK of alfalfa meal at 2-1-2. Blood meal at NPK of 12-0-0, high in nitrogen works fast like chemical fertilizer. One time I sprinkled blood meal around my marigolds to deter rabbits. They shot up to be 3' tall, all green and no blooms. Normally marigolds are 6 inches tall and loaded with blooms


clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 08:09 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 08:09 pm

Blooms of Fall

posted by: amberroses on 11.01.2012 at 07:37 pm in Rose Gallery Forum


Munstead Wood


Princess Alexandra of Kent






clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 11:53 am

Nostalgic for the past season's roses

posted by: dublinbay on 11.05.2012 at 03:06 pm in Rose Gallery Forum

I was all eager to spend a lovely autumn day finishing repainting my front porch, but when I got up today, it was chilly and rainy out there! So I decided to browse my photo album a bit--I miss my roses! Here are some garden shots and singles for you to enjoy also, I hope.

Elle (HT) looks so charming here--a bit of bright red Dublin Bay climber showing on the right.
Elle (Hybrid Tea) 2012

Here's four lovely pinks in a cluster--starting on the left, Austin's Mayflower, Cora Stubbs peony, floribunda Our Lady of Guadalupe, and behind it, Austin's Mortimer Sackler.
Four pink beauties (lft-rgt): Mayflower (David Austin rose), Cora Stubbs peony, Our Lady of Guadalupe (floribunda rose), Mortimer Sackler (David Austin rose--background) 2012

Here's one I'm going to miss--Love & Peace (HT). For some strange reason, it really declined after its big spring bloom, and given that it is prone to BS at the end of each cycle, I ruthlessly spaded it--but I will certainly miss its beautiful blooms.
Love & Peace (Hybrid Tea) 2012

But I still have this beauty to drool over: Chrysler Imperial (HT):
Chrysler Imperial (ht)

This is my Perfume Path--all the really good smelly ones, including the Double Delight you see in front there, are placed along that path:

Three of my favorites: That 3 Molineux (Austin) planted close together on the right, plus the vivid blue/purple larkspur that grows back wild each year and the new lilies called Silken Road. I liked them so well that I ordered 3 more to plant in there also.

I'll miss this one--Golden Showers climber that I've been growing for years. Fell victim to RRD this summer--alas!

I love my bright red Braveheart shrub--with my favorite climber--Dublin Bay, of course, in the background:
Braveheart shrub (Clements), foreground, Dublin Bay climber, background, 2012

I have often bragged about my 7 darling minis called Sweet Diana, but it just occurred to me that I rarely show them. Well, here they are.

How's this for big, fat, and gorgeous? Peter Mayle (HT)--I have several of him and am crazy about this show-off!
Peter Mayle (Hybrid Tea) 2012

I lost my beloved Buff Beauty during the long, drought-ridden, oven-hot summer. Bout broke my heart, but I already have an order in for its replacement to (hopefully) sprawl along the back fence like its predecessor did:
Buff Beauty (Hybrid Musk rose) 2012

Let's end the nostalgic tour with some other kinds of beauties also--columbine and iris from last spring.
McKenna Columbine, foreground, and Iris, background, 2012

Hope you enjoyed the tour as much as I did. Unfortunately, it is still chilly and rainy outside!



clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 11:51 am

RE: Who's doing best? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: grandmothers_rose on 08.06.2012 at 09:04 pm in Roses Forum

I second POPE JOHN PAUL II. He came from Roses Unlimited this spring and I have been pinching off new buds every week, way more than any other new rose. ROSE DE RESCHT has survived spidermites and sill has just about all her leaves. HOME RUN is in her second year and produces a good number of blooms, and LYDA ROSE always has a "spray" or more blooming.


clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 09:32 am

RE: Who's doing best? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: nitric_acid on 08.06.2012 at 09:54 pm in Roses Forum

Fragrant Plum is having the best year it's ever had.

Marijke Koopman is outstanding as always. Winter hardy, disease resistant and vigorous. What more could one want?

Julia Child is amazing. Very healthy, and always loaded with flowers. This has got to be one of the all around best roses in recent years.

Artistry is doing very well. Perhaps my favorite coral orange hybrid tea.

Love and Peace seems to be indestructible. I'm not a big fan of the flowers, but this rose grows too well to get rid of it.

Now for my number 1 dud: Chris Evert. Beautiful melon colored blooms with nice form. The only problem is you only get them once a year. Then it spends the whole summer just sitting there doing nothing. What a tease!


clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 09:31 am

RE: Who's doing best? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: bluegirl on 08.05.2012 at 10:23 pm in Roses Forum

Have rocky alkaline soil, high temps. No spray & I'm deep watering ~once weekly.

The stars: Iceberg has lots of blooms, brilliant pink Iceberg has over 30 (got tired of counting) with good pink flush to them.
La Marne has bloomed nonstop & is still at it, same with "Caldwell Pink".
A big-box store Chrysler Imperial & Love have also thrown blooms steadily. All these are in full unrelenting sun.

Peach Belle has lush foliage & about a dozen blooms tho they are smaller. I quit fertilizing late June because it's so dang hot & dry. A couple of Tropicanas have been steady, too, but their blooms are small right now. These guys have some early shade but full blast sun the rest of the day.

A baby Talisman & a bigger Nasturana from Greenmantle. have bloomed since I got them this spring. Nasturana stays covered in bloom. They are in pots.


clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 09:29 am

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: flaurabunda on 08.03.2012 at 01:18 pm in Roses Forum

I have Night Owl next to About Face and it's glorious.

All of my other mauves are surrounded by cream, light pink, or deep red roses & the effect from a distance is that everything looks pinkish.

I agree that golden, warm tones look best next to purples.


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:09 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:09 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: lizalily on 08.03.2012 at 11:16 am in Roses Forum

I can't say enough good things about South Africa! However, it grows tall and should probably be the center of the bed. The golden orange is always beautiful, the leaves are almost spotless and the healthiest I have seem. It would look fabulous with purples! I have it near Night Owl And they set each other off beautifully. It would be wonderful with Time Zone too. Its far more vigorous then Abbye De Cluny or Just Joey. And its been covered in bloom constantly since early June with a whole new set of them about to start opening...never without at least a few and often COVERED in them!


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:08 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: seil on 08.02.2012 at 07:48 pm in Roses Forum

Just Joey is beautiful but not a vigorous grower and can be very winter tender as well as black spot prone. Julia Child, on the other hand, appears to be unstoppable! I don't have a lot of apricot roses, most of mine are more orange. The two I have are Sisters at Heart and Cherish. Neither of them is vigorous and they're both rather stingy bloomers. If yo don't mind brighter colors I'm crazy in love with Dick Clark! Blooms his fool head off and at the moment is the only rose on the patio that has not one spotted leaf! Everything else is nearly nekkid from BS but Dick Clark still has every leaf and is covered in yet another round of blooms.


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:08 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nanadoll on 08.02.2012 at 08:02 pm in Roses Forum

I forgot to mention that Abbaye De Cluny has the same coloring as Just Joey, but is a vigorous grower and fairly large rose with a nice shape. Its blooms are large, too. Diane


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: roseseek on 08.02.2012 at 06:20 pm in Roses Forum

Your stated combinations are lovely. One of the most dramatic combinations I grew in the old garden was purple with orange. Violet and orange roses with violet columbine, penstemon, heliotrope and other perennials. I know many resist orange as "harsh" or "strident", yet that was the combination visitors to that garden were always drawn to and spent the most time ogling. Its drama carried well into a vase, particularly when put in black amethyst Depression Glass ones. Kim


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nanadoll on 08.02.2012 at 02:59 pm in Roses Forum

Most of my garden is in purple, mauve, yellow, and apricot combinations. I love them! Don't forget Ebb Tide's offspring, Twilight Zone. I have both roses, and I think TZ is a definite improvement over Ebb Tide (stays darker in heat, nicer bush shape). Some favorite yellow roses of mine are that mainstay, Julia Child, and a much smaller shrub with similar yellow blooms, Bernstein-Rose. Golden Celebration is a good Austin yellow. Apricots/peach...where to begin. Abbaye de Cluny is pretty good. Austins Tamora and Evelyn can be good, depending on your climate. Light mauves I like are Blueberry Hill and Angel Face, though that rose can have disease problems in many areas. I have a post with photos of lots of purple/yellow combos on this forum if you're interested. Diane


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:07 pm

RE: rose color to compliment purple/mauves (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: maryl on 08.02.2012 at 02:08 pm in Roses Forum

One of the prettiest combinations I had many years ago was Just Joey and Angel Face. Just Joey is a marvelous color with the mauves. Sorry, I've never heard of the others on your list except for Aloha. The "Aloha" that most of us are familiar with is a pink short climber, so I'm thinking this may be a Kordes rose whose name has been reused without regard to previouos introductions. Or not. The registered rose "Aloha" is not any shade of yellow....Maryl


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:06 pm

rose color to compliment purple/mauves

posted by: poorbutroserich on 08.02.2012 at 12:58 pm in Roses Forum

Hello. I've decided I'm going to do a cutting garden of purples/mauves. I've noticed that all of this color family seem to have golden stamens. I'm thinking gold/yellow/apricot/buff would be pretty with roses like "ebb tide" "night owl" "intrigue"...
I like the following roses based on photos:
"apricot vigorosa" "aloha" "out of africa" "just joey" "wishing" "kordes moonlight: "rugelda" "sunny sky"

Any of my more experienced colleagues care to share an opinion? Also, would some white look nice as well?
This garden will be visible but primarily for cutting.


clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 03:06 pm