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salsa info

posted by: ahbee01 on 06.01.2011 at 11:01 am in Harvest Forum

I haven't made salsa in 2 years, I use Annie's Salsa recipe, and have seen that there have been some changes. I always follow the recipe, and want to know if this recipe is still up to date, the most recent recipe I have is from an 09 post,I think!
I haven't been able to can it because of tomato loss 2 years in a row, I did freeze some so I didn't worry about it being canning safe! I am hopeful that this year our maters will make it to be canned, plus I want to share the recipe and I want to make sure I have the correct info. I really love this salsa, as does my entire family, so when I share the recipe, I really make sure that the receiver understand the importance of being canning safe!
Thanks to anyone who can help, I have really missed this board, and canning, everyone always made me feel welcome and have always been patient and helpful! I still consider myself new to canning, and feel I have a lot more to learn.
Thanks again, Brenda

Annie's Salsa Ingredient Checklist:

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained

2-1/2 cups onion, chopped

1-1/2 cups green pepper, chopped
3 - 5 jalapenos, chopped
>Any combination of green, red, whatever color peppers is fine. 3-5 jalapenos equates to roughly 1/4 cup, so total peppers cannot exceed 1-3/4 cups.

6 cloves garlic, minced
>Do not increase. But small differences in size of cloves should not matter.

2 teaspoons cumin

2 teaspoons pepper

2 Tbsp canning salt
>For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

1/4 cup (4 Tbsp) fresh cilantro, chopped
>Can be reduced or left out entirely. Do not increase.

1/3 cup sugar
>For taste only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

1 cup 5% cider vinegar
>Pressure canning is no longer recommended, which specified 1/3 cup vinegar. Must include full 1 cup of vinegar for BWB processing.
However, may substitute bottled lemon or lime juice in any proportions according to taste (for example, 1/3 cup vinegar, 1/3 cup lemon juice, 1/3 cup lime juice). Can use any flavor vinegar (white, cider, etc.) as long as acidity is at least 5%.

2 cups (16 oz.) tomato sauce
>For texture only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

2 cups (16 oz.)tomato paste
>For texture only. Can be reduced or left out entirely.

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Pour into hot pint jars, seal and process in a hot water canning bath for 15 minutes.
Makes about 6 pints.
>Cannot BWB quarts. If doing half-pints or smaller, process for the pint time of 15 minutes.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.06.2011 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2011 at 12:23 pm

RE: I got dierama, I got dierama! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: motria on 05.04.2008 at 09:58 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I'm pleased to report that my digestive tract is in tip-top condition. ;-)

More importantly, I can hope to have these flowers in a couple of years..

Here is a link that might be useful: Dierama pulcherrimum

NOTES:

investigate this book
clipped on: 06.21.2008 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2008 at 02:17 pm

RE: Hollyhock question (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: northerner_on on 04.23.2008 at 05:58 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I longed for HH's and when I finally got a few flowering plants last year they were white and pale yellow (the mother was deep burgundy). I cut them back and now the big white one is sprouting!! Seems to be perennial so I plan to move it - replace it with one of my new doubles. As for the rust, my American neighbours gave me a solution - just work some cornmeal into the soil around the roots. Worked for me.
Northerner.

NOTES:

cornmeal in soil around hollyhocks to prevent rust
clipped on: 06.16.2008 at 08:08 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2008 at 08:09 pm

RE: 10 year old seed germinates! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tosser on 04.21.2008 at 01:39 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

If I was only allowed to grow one herb for cooking, I'd be torn between basil and summer savory. You always hear savory called "the bean herb" (snap & dried) and it does go nicely with them.


For a super-quick salad/side veggie, drain & rinse a can of white beans or chickpeas. Toss with minced or dried summer savory, olive oil, 2-3 tablespoons of minced onion and a couple cloves of minced garlic. Crazy-easy and so, so good. I toss on quite a bit when I make hummus, too, instead of parsley.


Savory's also fantastic in split pea soup and great with tuna. I use it alot with pasta, cream soups, and in pretty much anything with cheese or eggs.


One of my favorite breakfasts is creamed eggs on toast:

Slice or chop hard-cooked eggs. Make a medium white sauce and season with minced summer savory, a bit of dry mustard, salt & pepper. Add eggs and serve over toast.

To me, it has a fresh, sweet, green taste with a faint peppery bite. Actually, I don't think there's anything I wouldn't put it in. Once you develop a taste for it, you've gotta have it!

Last year I grew some Red Wonder bell peppers from a commercial pack I bought in 1999, and several cukes (tiny picklers) from 2000.

NOTES:

recipes using summer savory
clipped on: 06.16.2008 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2008 at 03:23 pm

RE: Dahlia now?.....Limequilla? Anyone? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vera_eastern_wa on 04.18.2008 at 11:37 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Hi Pit!!! Where ya been hiding? I think of ya every time I walk out the front door and see how well the Monarda is doing. I can hardly wait to see what show the Solidago 'Fireworks' gives this year....

I just finished reading about digging, dividing and storing tubers on the Colorado Dahlia Society website...very informative I might add with pictures....and what a chore this all looks like! Holy cow :O
Some good info there as well regarding disbudding and topping too...can't wait to experiment; thanks to Lime :D

Vera

Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado Dahlia Society

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.15.2008 at 07:32 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2008 at 07:33 pm

RE: Coneflower germination??? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: tracyvine on 04.09.2008 at 09:16 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Hi, it depends on which type of echinacea that you have. If they are purpurea they will begin sprouting soon if they haven't already, the echinacea augustifolia need to go through a 12 week period of freeze and thaw in order to achieve germination. There is a very nicely put together article that I will attach on echinacea germination. I was wondering the same thing a week or so ago and stumbled on it when I was doing some research. Scroll down past the contact information for the info on Augustifolias. I hope this helps!

Tracy

Here is a link that might be useful: echinacea germination

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.15.2008 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 06.15.2008 at 11:51 am

RE: do any w.s. herbs thwart rabbits? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: not_a_contessa on 03.20.2008 at 09:08 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Here's a site that may offer some helpful suggestions.

Mary

Here is a link that might be useful: Critter Trouble

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.10.2008 at 07:46 am    last updated on: 06.10.2008 at 07:47 am

What plants do you winter sow that are deer resistant?

posted by: greengardener07 on 03.14.2008 at 12:33 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I am sowing or have sown:

rudbeckia
coneflower
blanketflower
lavender
morning glory
ornamental blue fescue
mexican sunflower

I would liek to place them on my hill, outside my fence and we do get deer. Are the above deer resistant? Do you know of anything I can winter sow that is deer resistant.

I have some salvia seed from last years plants and will put some marigolds out there if I can.

Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.09.2008 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2008 at 02:59 pm

Arched trellis from cattle panels

posted by: seedmama on 03.08.2008 at 01:37 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I recently posted some of this information on another, largely lost and unrelated, thread in this forum. I've concluded it would be more searchable with its own thread. With all of us soon to need support for peas, tomatoes, sweet peas, purple hyacinth beans and more, I hope forum members agree it merits a stand alone thread.

This picture shows neonposey's purple hyacinth beans just getting started, and was taken before I planted the cukes. You'll also notice the cardboard in place waiting for wood chips, and a couple of bags of leaves. Too bad I didn't take an after pic because it really was pretty. This picture however, is probably better anyway because it shows the structure itself.

Upright arch

Last year I found a thread in the Vegetable Growing forum with detailed instructions for making an arch out of a cattle panel. At a cost of $14.88 each, they were cheap and easy. I used them to grow cucumbers. For beauty, I located them at the openings to my wooded paths and planted two purple hyacinth beans at the front opening.
It worked well enough that I planned to grow my sugar snap peas on them this winter, then switch the trellis to warm weather cukes again. I haven't actually sown the peas yet, but it might work for you.

I tried to locate the old thread for you, with the post from hunter_tx, but it is gone. I will try to explain it as well as she did, because it really is easy.

I was able to do the first one by myself, but found a partner really makes it easier. Put the cattle panel on a flat surface (concrete is better than grass). Working from the outside, fold one end to match the other. Have your partner hold the two ends together while you step a crease into the middle. Gloves are beneficial.

I found the arch to have its most pleasing proportions when the base was spaced exactly 5 feet wide. This also allowed me to drive my lawn tractor through. I used a couple of railroad ties to determine placement, holding them in place with stakes and setting the arch on the inside. I reached up to grab hold of the peak of the arch and pulled down to get the curve in the arch. Next I snipped the bottom horizontal row of wire away with bolt cutters. This left a series of vertical spikes which I shoved into the ground. Once it was anchored I removed the railroad ties to use on the next one.

I did one single this way and two doubles. I found that by putting two end to end I got a longer tunnel.

I really was easy, and cheap.

The following comments are responses to follow up questions:

Tansymoon,
I don't know if you can bring a cattle panel home in a van. The ones I bought were 52 inches wide by 16 feet long. The store had a policy against loading 16 foot long items into a pick up bed (good call) so I had to bring a trailer.

I bought mine at a local lumber yard called Lumber 2. They were also available at Atwood's Farm and Home, and Tractor Supply Company, as well as several local farm stores.

Farfaraway,
Yes, you can tuck the arch inside the frame of a raised bed, and I'd encourage it. I mentioned that I placed mine using railroad ties. I tried eliminating this step on one pair of arches and was sorry. Because the railroad ties were not there, when I pulled down to create the curve of the arch, the curve came in lower on the arch than was pleasing to my eye.

I dont' recommend using the roll of fencing for this application, although you can probably do other styles of trellis that would look quite nice. I don't believe the roll of fencing will be stiff enough to hold its shape.

I think planting cool weather lettuce and spinach under the cover of peas will probably extend their growing season as things warm up.

I haven't actually grown peas, just cukes on the trellis last summer, but peas were my (now unlikely) plan before we were blessed with diapers and feedings.

I did not pull them out, because they were attractive as winter interest with white lights and later with icicles. Also, they marked the openings to my woodland paths, so I'm thinking they are semi permanent. My only casualty came from a tree crashing on one during our unprecedented December ice storm.

The picture above shows two cattle panels together. After folding, but before pulling down to bend, I tied them together with green plastic coated gardening twist tie stuff. With two together each side was 104" long. You can see the start of a couple of purple hyacinth beans at the front side. In addition, I planted 25 cukes along each side, one about every four inches. The cukes dangled inside the arch, which made for easy picking. The deer and racoons will vouch for that statement.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 05:39 pm

Iris rot

posted by: hilltopviews on 08.14.2005 at 07:17 am in Iris Forum

We've had a wet summer this year. As I'm cleaning and removing weeds, I'm finding almost all of my iris are rottening.

When I say rot - its really - mush !! I'm having to remove them as I find the decaying tubors.

These are old plants I've had for years, moved them when I've relocated. Is it the rain or is there something else going on?

Plants have good drainage, but we have had a lot of rain this season.

Thanks

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.01.2008 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 06.01.2008 at 08:52 am

Newbie shade garden

posted by: chitownladyd on 02.21.2008 at 01:03 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I'm at a lost for what to w/s for shade. Any suggestions?

I did purchase a few seeds but there seems to be the same old tired plants for my backyard that only gets about 6 or 7 hours of sun at best. I'm looking for new and different here people!

Would reeaaallly appreciate your kind help. And suggestions?

If you have extra seeds, well I might be able to help you to clear the clutter. Hee hee!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.30.2008 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2008 at 04:55 pm

help iris borer

posted by: kmudpuppy on 06.24.2006 at 08:21 am in Iris Forum

i have 10,000 iris in my garden, the leaves starting turning brown and drying up. i took some to the university and they said that it was from the late hard frost that we had. they suggested that i just cut back the brown spots as i was doing that this week i found this web site and the real culprit of my problem the iris borer. can any one help with suggestions on what to do. everything i have read on here says dig them up and do the bleach treatment. i don't know that i can do all of them that fast to save them. does anyone have any suggestions on what i can do to halt the borers and kill them as i work through the beds and do the bleach thing? does anyone know everything else that i have read also says to move the beds is there any kind of treatment so i don't have to move all of these beds? any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.

thanks kim

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.05.2008 at 12:40 am    last updated on: 05.05.2008 at 12:41 am

RE: substitute for greens? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: blutranes on 11.25.2006 at 04:41 pm in Soil Forum

vance8b,

Alfalfa pellets/meal is the ticket all the time. With alfalfa pellets/meal you get more bang for your bucks in more ways than one. Yes, alfalfa heats up when you are short on greens, but it is a great soil amendment as well. There are growth hormones in the pellets that drive plants nuts. Mixed as a tea, diluted correctly, and sprayed on leaves or used as a soil drench your plants take on a deeper green color allowing for greater photosynthesis. This translates into increased sap production from the plant to the roots in the form of sugar. Microbes love sugar, and they really go to work. This increased work causes the stalks of the plants to grow larger, thus allowing the fruit to grow larger and be well supported by the stalks. Spray the plant with the tea in a month or so and it happens again. A plant cannot support a large fruit unless it has a large stalk. Did I mention all that sap goes into the fruit as well? It does, increasing the nutrition of the fruit (more sugar, healthy sugar not the false kind). As long are one is not greedy and doesnt use too much the plant will decide how large and how much fruit it bears. Yes, deep green plant, thick stalks, and large juicy fruit sounds like a winner to me. Cottonseed meal does none of this. I have a bag of it in the shed; I wont even put it on the compost pile. For this reason I cannot compare the two, maybe someone else can.

One more thing, rose lover sing praises to high heaven about alfalfa tea. They brew it like they brew coffee and pour it on their roses. I am talking about champion rose growers, not just folks like us. Alfalfa tea smells horrible, and the rose grower make all kinds of jokes about that. But they never joke about weather they will continue to use it, smell has nothing to do with it. I use it on my roses, let it warm up long enough even now and they will bloom. I have seen them bloom in January; there is something in that alfalfa that does it. Alfalfa works on any plant, just dont spray it on your lawn unless you have a good lawnmower. You will be cutting grass every three days and have the greenest thickest lawn for miles around. The only person who will have a nicer lawn is someone who too uses alfalfa.

Do a search "alfalfa tea" and see what you find out. I will tell you this about alfalfa, I never run out of it, ever. Those are my thoughts, do experiment and see what you learn about alfalfa, it truly is a gardeners friend IMO

Blutranes

NOTES:

alfafa pellets/tea for roses and other benefits
clipped on: 12.24.2007 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2007 at 04:18 pm

How to combat deer and squirrels next year?

posted by: netwiz on 11.26.2007 at 05:08 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Germination was fantastic for my first WS season. I had more seedlings than I could find the time to plant out! Then the deer and squirrels systematically ate/dug up my seedlings one area at a time. I still managed to salvage quite a few WS plants but lost many of the varieties I coveted most.

I plan to try Deer Scram next year but still need some advice about the #*%^& squirrels. They were relentless! The fall was the worst when they were digging for/burying acorns. Even our German Shepherd wasn't a deterrent. I would estimate I lost over half my seedlings to varmints this year. Anyone else with the same issues?

Joanne

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.11.2007 at 08:48 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2007 at 08:55 pm

RE: Do you see problems with this pot ghetto plan? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mudinmyshorts on 12.02.2007 at 02:37 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

squirrel ... I've experimented in the past using hay bales placed into long rectangles covered with plastic with holes with space inside to place covered and uncovered containers. This system works just fine. What I found was heat retention in the coral is sufficient for sprouted containers to have their tops completely removed very shortly after sprouting even in the coldest and hardest freezes. At the same time, you'll still want to keep the tops on the unsprouted containers to have a more ideal greenhouse effect going until they pop. The real key to success with this method is to make sure the plastic top is constructed to be easily and effectively adjusted to increase or decrease ventilation in the compartment space according to fluctuating direct sun and temperature conditions. I do think you'll find the coral will make for a very nice appearance. Good luck.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.08.2007 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2007 at 09:24 pm

This will make you think!

posted by: Loriplants2 on 11.09.2005 at 06:46 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

What are some foxgloves varities that are perennial for zone 5?

NOTES:

perennial foxgloves
clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 05:11 pm

Melampodium - 4th time is the charm?

posted by: bakemom on 04.17.2007 at 08:56 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Thanks to Linda (flowerchildky)I have seeds to try Melampodium for the fourth year. I have had no luck up to this point for reasons unknown. I have heard that it's a great plant to grow and easy to boot!

I'm crossing my fingers.

What is YOUR experience with Melampodium? What can you tell me about it?

NOTES:

heat and drought tolerant ... bushy ... long bloomer ... a must have ... put on wish list ...
clipped on: 08.27.2007 at 07:52 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2007 at 07:53 pm

Thoughts on Rose 'Zepherine Drouhin'

posted by: hydrangea89 on 08.04.2006 at 06:19 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I just recently recieved a Wayside Gardens catalog and fell in love with the rose 'Zepherine Drouhin,' lately I have been rose obsessed but I think that is due to the fact that I am trying to plant a new garden bed with a bunch of "cottage esque" plants, I also love the fact that it is an heirloom from 1868 and I also love the foliage. Any expieriences or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

NOTES:

long bloomer
clipped on: 07.18.2007 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2007 at 09:33 pm

RE: New Roses for 2007 (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: balsam on 12.10.2006 at 08:19 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Sierra - two roses that I've got are rated for zone 2 - Scotch Pink and Blanc Double de Coubert. The Scotch Pink is a delicate but thorny small bush with fine, dark green leaves and single/double pale pink blossoms. I've also heard it referred to as "Dog Rose". Since I got it from Kings Landing Historical Settlement, I'm not positive of it's identity, but it fits the Scotch Rose description.
The Blanc Double de Coubert was one of my first and is one of my favourites. You can't beat this one for blooming. It starts to turn green in late April/early May here, and is blooming by June. Gorgeous, double white blooms cover the 4 foot canes until after several hard frosts in fall. I've seen it bloom until late October here! The scent is heavenly - a real old-fashioned rose smell. The canes are quite thorny and they sucker easily (but that just means more roses to share).

I've also looked at Pickering and will likely order from them in the spring. Their pricing is good.

Balsam

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.16.2007 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2007 at 03:35 pm

RE: OT Clematis jackamanii (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pitimpinai on 07.15.2007 at 10:30 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Yes, buy them all. Worth every penny. I have a tiny yard ...34f x 125f, house and garage included. I have 35 including a Sweet Autunm that is taking down the fence. lol.

My favorite is 'Betty Corning'. It blooms all summer long and has a delicate scent. I planted it by my side door so I can sniff at the flowers on my way in and out of the house:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

NOTES:

'Betty Corning' clematis blooms all summer
clipped on: 07.15.2007 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2007 at 09:36 pm

RE: WooHoo! 'White Garden' will happen. (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: donn_ on 07.12.2007 at 08:32 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

No progress on the white garden as yet, but I have a new suspect for it. I bough 5 Persicaria polymorpha bareroots from Brent & Becky's sale. I potted them up and stuck them in the pot ghetto, and 4 of them outgrew it already. They've blooming with flowers which look like white Astilbe, and 2 are almost 3' tall already.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This guy's supposed to be a stunner when mature.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.14.2007 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2007 at 04:11 pm

RE: Making flower beds accessible (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: inthegarden_k on 11.16.2006 at 05:24 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

i have found that using rock dust under stepping stones solves the sinking problem. in fact, i had a rock dust path for a year that did not sink while i worked out stone details. it settles nicely, doesn't roll away, etc. i have also used it under mulch for a mulched path.

NOTES:

rock dust under stepping stones used as paths in flower beds solves problem of stones sinking over time
clipped on: 07.12.2007 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2007 at 05:29 pm

help with plant suggestions

posted by: marthaye on 09.23.2006 at 11:08 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I have two service berry trees in the fron of my house. They are separated by an area of about 20 feet of grass Today after separtating two large clumps of daylily Strawberry Candy I planted about 7 plants on the outside of each area around the tree. My question is what else to plant with the daylilies? There is lots of room and lots of sun. The trees are still tall and skinny and therefore do not give much shade. I am in upper SC zone 7.

NOTES:

good ideas for plants that work well with day lilies
clipped on: 07.09.2007 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2007 at 07:23 pm

favourite vegetable / flower combinations

posted by: fernsk on 08.31.2006 at 02:56 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

As I watch with regret the passing of my growing season [cucumbers and tomatoes have about petered out] I got to thinking about how I want to plant next years garden. I plan on including 3 to 4 rose bushes in my "scheme" and was wondering what your favourite vegetable / flower combinations are. I had read in a post in another forum that people loved growing tomatoes with roses - that was a combination that I hadn't thought about so it opened my mind to endless possiblities. What has worked for you?

Fern

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2007 at 07:34 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2007 at 07:35 pm

RE: Which Shastas are 'clump' formers? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mmqchdygg on 07.06.2007 at 01:24 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Well, I just found a list (link below). Hope this helps us all!

Common Name:
Leucanthemum x superbum Aglaia
A clump forming perennial producing fringed semi-double, white daisy-like flowers all summer long. Height 50cm. Will grow in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers. AGM
Common Name: Shasta Daisy


Leucanthemum x superbum Alaska
A clump forming perennial producing white daisy-like flowers with a yellow centre all summer long. Height 90cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy


Leucanthemum x superbum Barbara Bush
A clump forming perennial with green leaves edged cream, and semi-double, white daisy-like flowers from June to September. Height 50cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy

Leucanthemum x superbum Becky
A clump forming perennial producing white, daisy-like flowers with a yellow centre all summer long. Height 70cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy

Leucanthemum x superbum Goldrush
A clump forming perennial which produces all summer, daisy-like, double, yellow flowers, which fade to creamy-yellow as they age. Height 60cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy, Leucanthemum x suerbum Goldraush


Leucanthemum x superbum Phyllis Smith
A clump forming perennial producing fringed semi-double, white daisy-like flowers all summer long. Height 90cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy


Leucanthemum x superbum Polaris
A clump forming perennial producing large, white, daisy-like flowers with a yellow centre, all summer long. Height 90cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy


Leucanthemum x superbum Schneehurken
A clump forming perennial producing semi-double, white, daisy-like flowers with frilly petals all summer long. Height 40cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy


Leucanthemum x superbum Silberprinzesschen
A clump forming perennial producing white daisy like flowers with a yellow centre all summer long. Height 30cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy, Leucanthemum x superbum Silver Princess


Leucanthemum x superbum Sonnenschein
A clump forming perennial producing large creamy-yellow daisy like flowers with a yellow centre in summer. Height 75cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers.
Common Name: Shasta Daisy, Leucanthemum x superbum Sunshine


Leucanthemum x superbum Wirral Supreme
A clump forming perennial producing double white daisy like flowers all summer long. Height 90cm. Grows in most soils in sun or partial shade. Good for cut flowers. AGM
Common Name: Shasta Daisy, Chrysanthemum maximum Wirral Supreme

Here is a link that might be useful: The Potted Garden's List of

NOTES:

types of Shasta daisies
clipped on: 07.08.2007 at 04:47 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2007 at 04:49 pm

RE: Recommend your FAV clematis.... (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: michelle_zone4 on 09.13.2006 at 04:30 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

I don't believe I have seen Nelly Moser mentioned. Early bloom with intense color.

NOTES:

clematis varieties
clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 08:22 pm

RE: Which Shastas are 'clump' formers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: northerner_on on 07.06.2007 at 02:35 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I WS Shasta Daisy (Alaska) last year and had very good success with it after having tried and failed using the 'under the lights' method several times. I planted about six plants in a nice clump and they are now beginning to bloom but they are not in sync. BUT I read on a post on this forum last year that to form a nice flowering clump you should pinch them. By the time I remembered to do that they already had buds and I was afraid to do it for fear of losing all my blooms, so maybe that's the way to have a nice flowering clump. I do not think I will have the 'show' I expected.

NOTES:

forcing shasta daisies to clump
clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 12:08 pm

RE: I've been ripping out plants! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: northerner_on on 06.29.2007 at 03:18 am in Winter Sowing Forum

As a newbie, it's this kind of chaos that I'm aiming for. They're beautiful. Tiffy, I could not bear to rip out my lilies and I found the beetles were more aggressive than usual, but then I did not do my usual treatment which I got from the horticultural college here in town: just when the lily buds start pushing their heads through the earth in Spring, spray them and the surrounding earth with a 10% solution of household ammonia. It does not hurt the plants, but seems to kill of the beetle eggs/larvae. I have done this over the last several years and had only a few beetles, but didn't this year because I was too busy with WS and I had quite an infestation. However, I saved all my lilies- they have always been my favourite flower. Strangely enough, I had none in my front flower-bed where I have a collection of "Infiity" the so-called green lily, nor in my new bed against the western fence where I have all my trumpets and 4-5 footers (removed from the front). I guess they haven't found them yet!!!

NOTES:

how to control lily beetles
clipped on: 06.30.2007 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2007 at 12:32 pm

RE: squirrels, rabbits and tolerance (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: lyn_r on 06.18.2006 at 02:16 am in Cottage Garden Forum

I live in the country on six acres surrounded by wooded areas so I have wildlife in my yard just about all the time. I have six huge flower gardens that never get touched by the deer, squirrels, rabbits, etc. Several years ago I discovered a very inexpensive and easy way to keep the 'munchkins' away from my flowers. Beginning in the early spring, I VERY LIGHTLY sprinkle Arm & Hammer carpet deodorizer on my munchable flowers, and then repeat about every three weeks. Rain does not affect it so you do not have to run out after a rain to reapply. I have not lost even ONE plant since I began doing this. In fact, they completely avoid my gardens after the first yearly application. It does not matter which scent you use. I have tried several and they all have worked.

Now if I could find a way to keep those blamed 6' rat snakes out of my yard I would be a very happy gardener!!!!

NOTES:

Arm and Hammer carpet deodorizer for deterring deer, rabbits, squirrels
clipped on: 06.20.2007 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2007 at 06:12 pm

OT - Perennials that Rebloom?

posted by: drippy on 06.09.2007 at 10:12 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I tried searching this on the net, and the first several sites I tried told me "many perennials will rebloom if cut back". Since I am heavily into seed collecting, but would love to get a second flush of blooms if I can, I'd like to know which ones to cut back and which ones to leave alone.

Here's what I've got going now:

armeria (sea thrift)
baptisia australis (blue false indigo)
digitalis (foxglove)
aquilegias, lots (columbines)
amsonia tabernaemontana (blue star)
penstemon - I think it is Rondo mix
phlox paniculata
chrysanthemum coccinea (painted daisy)
geraniums
polemonium pauciflorum

And please tell me what others you've had good luck cutting back that have rebloomed for you. I would assume this would somewhat depend on zone; I'm in zone 6.

TIA,

Kim

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.10.2007 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2007 at 01:03 pm

RE: Ants (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Tiffy_z5_6_Can on 06.13.2005 at 10:38 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

I used the sugar and borax mix 4 years ago and it worked great. We purchased the borax from the pharmacist (get the REAL stuff), and after mixing it placed it in tuna tin cans. The tins were punctured with nails to create holes for the ants to get in, and a lid was put on top. Several tin cans were placed around the corner of the house where they were coming in. After two days there were no ants.
From what I understand, they do come and get some for the queen, but since they also travel through it, they get it on their little bodies. When they return to the nest, other ants will clean them, and so ingest the borax while the carrier is feeding the borax to the queen.

It works! This will be the first year we have to take the tin cans out again!

NOTES:

50 - 50 mix of borax and sugar
clipped on: 05.27.2007 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2007 at 04:13 pm

RE: organic controls for flea beetles (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: breezyb on 06.12.2005 at 01:05 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

I too absolutely SWEAR by my lightweight/insect-weight floating row covers & use them on EVERYTHING except caged tomatoes.

The only plants I uncover are those that require pollination once they begin to bloom, & even then I recover them at night. I've found that they not only deter insect pests, but deer & groundhogs as well.

However, if your plants are already infested, floating row covers won't help much at this point as you'll only be trapping the bugs beneath it. In this case I would use Safer Insecticidal Soap spray, which is usually available at most large home & garden centers &/or online.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.27.2007 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2007 at 02:18 pm

How To Get Rid Of Fungus Spores

posted by: Todd_In_Texas on 06.01.2005 at 09:34 am in Organic Gardening Forum

I posted this on the Lawn Care forum but wanted to see what you folks had to say.

We've received a ton of rain and little sun the past several days so the lawn, beds and garden have been constantly damp to say the least. I've noticed some back and grey stuff growing in a few small patches in the very back of the yard where the water would seem to drain to and now also in the flower bed and garden. I keep it all organic (see My Member Page for products used) but am concerned because I don't want this to spread.

Below are three pics including two close ups. I guess this is some sort of fungus? I applied cornmeal yesterday because of its natural fungicidial properties but it rained another inch last night. Is there any other organic treatment I can use to get rid of this?

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us
Image Hosted by ImageShack.us

Thanks! -Todd

NOTES:

milk as a fungicide for powdery mildew --- good treatment for zinnias, etc?
clipped on: 05.27.2007 at 12:46 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2007 at 12:47 pm

RE: Slugs Prefer Dried Grass or Leaves or Cow Manure? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kimmsr on 05.21.2006 at 07:14 am in Soil Forum

Slugs need a moist environment to live in so they prefer to stay in places that are cool and moist like any material used for mulch and that is why the are usually only out at night. So it really matters little what you use for mulch the slugs will live there.

NOTES:

read tiffy's email for slug repellant
clipped on: 05.22.2007 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2007 at 04:16 pm

Heavy forest soil

posted by: akulina on 05.05.2006 at 05:32 pm in Soil Forum

Dear soil pros, I need your advice on my brand new flower bed. There was a forest on that land and that was cleared, and top soil ended up on my brand new flower bed.

Soil feels very heavy and clayiy (?) to the touch, however it is very rich black in colour - it is a good sign, right? Does it mean that it is not a poor soil?

Still - the thing is very heavy and difficult to work with, there are no worms, at least I have seem just one so far...

Reading this very helpful forum I got few ideas, and thinking of working in some compost, blood meal (to attract worms) and bark mulch. I understand that working mulch in can cause N-defficiency in plants, but is it still worth adding to make soil lighter and more aerated? What if I add N-rich fertilizers to combat N-defficiency? Will this help?
And how long will it take for mulch to decompose, if I work it in? Probably much longer, then if left on top?

The thing is - I want to plant already, and how are my flowers going to grow if they sit in this heavy clay with no air? They need some friendly medium to grow in...

I will be very greatful for any advice!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 01:38 pm

Understanding Frost....Check this out!

posted by: vera_eastern_wa on 05.04.2007 at 09:24 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I found this while searching this morning...pay particular attention to what they say on page two of this PDF file regarding irrigation before a frost and the next two paragraphs after....very interesting, but sounds scary to me!!

Vera

Here is a link that might be useful: Cornell.edu Publications-Understanding Frost

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 12:31 pm

Can I pinch??

posted by: jennypat on 04.30.2007 at 08:53 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Morning glories and Moonflowers back, so they branch out and bush up? I have never grown these before, the ones I started inside are TALL and I can't plant out for at least 2 weeks yet. My WS ones have not even sprouted yet, I planted them both ways to do a comparison.

Jenny P

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.01.2007 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2007 at 09:39 pm

unusual seeds

posted by: lynnem on 04.08.2007 at 07:30 am in Winter Sowing Forum

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I think the timing is right to ask again, especially since I still have time to order more seeds....

What unusual plants have you grown from seed, specifically ones that just knocked your socks off??

By the way, I'm enjoying this winter sowing stuff... Never been able to keep seedlings alive before!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 08:01 pm

'Instant beds'

posted by: donn_ on 03.28.2006 at 07:01 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Need quick bedspace for your new babies? Here's a surefire way to build them quickly, using nothing but lawn and cardboard.

Groundlevel beds: Cut the lawn/sod about 6-8" deep, in sections you can handle easily. In the space you dug the sod from, lay out sheets of cardboard. Soak the cardboard. Flip the sod chunks upside down, so the grass side is on the cardboard. You now have a new bed, which can be planted into immediately, with a little compost added to the back fill.

Elevated beds: Find a part of the yard that could use a new woodchip path (alongside a bed is a good spot, because it doesn't have to be mowed or edged, because there won't be any grass to grow into your bed). Dig out the same sod chunks outlined above. Lay out the cardboard where you want the new bed, and soak it down. Flip the sod chunks same as above. It's ready to plant. Put down some landscape fabric where you dug out the sod, and cover it with 6-8" of woodchips. You now have a weedfree path that will make compost at it's bottom, which you can harvest every year. Just rake back the top, shovel the bottom into adjacent beds, rake the top back into the bottom, and put a new layer on top.

The primary benefits of instant beds are that you don't need layers of greens and browns like with lasagna beds, and they don't shrink down like lasagna beds.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.01.2007 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2007 at 08:35 pm

Birth of a bed

posted by: Donn_ on 07.31.2005 at 06:54 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I made way too many plants this year, with several flats of small cells still waiting to be dealt with, and dozens more flats of large cells. Add to that, hundreds of new grasses that need to be transplanted.

So, I'm making a new bed in the backyard. It's going to be a 26' diameter mandala garden, with 3 interior keyhole beds, loosely based on this design:

Here's most of the beginning. I can't get back far enough to get a full shot of it, so that'll have to wait until the next time I go up on the roof to clean out the gutters.

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

Tomorrow, I start turning over 500sf of sod.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.29.2007 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 03.29.2007 at 09:42 am

RE: OT: Video commercials on forum (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: morz8 on 03.10.2007 at 04:27 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

April, I've got dial up too. IE7 is my browser. Windows Defender free program for spyware. Symantec for virus protection, CCleaner for dumping the accumulated junk.

The tech at my ISP recommended Stop the Pop Up by Sureshot and I bought it in 2003. $20, not a subscription, but a single one time purchase. Tech told me they had trialed 30 and this one always worked. So, while it would be nice, the best things in life are not always free :) If I open the program and check, it shows 7266 pop ups today - blocked that I haven't had to deal with, well worth $20.

I haven't seen a pop up in years on any site. None, nada, never. While they build new and repair computers at my ISP office, this isn't a program they sell, just one they recommend.

Here is a link that might be useful: Stop the Pop Up

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.12.2007 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2007 at 05:51 pm

Zone 7 - Parsnips now or wait until Fall?

posted by: celestial on 02.27.2007 at 12:35 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I've heard they taste better when grown in the fall (they like a late freeze to bring up the sugar.) Any reason I should plant them now too?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.27.2007 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2007 at 02:14 pm

RE: Growing for Shade Questions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lindalana on 02.24.2007 at 12:57 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Mary, my garden is shady so all plants I plants have to take some shade. I grow lots of perennials, fewer annuals. Among annuals those that will do in shade torenia- wishbone flower, lobelia erinus cascade series, begonias, mimulus- monkey flower, calceolarias, various coleus. I would not ws coleus and grow it inside.
this is my list of what I planted earlier for WS- those are all perennials, many of them are natives to US. Some of them natives to Korea, China, Japan. They all hardy to my zone.
I order most of my seeds from Gardens North and hardyplants.com
By now my list probably doubled but this will give you some ideas. You will be surpised how many plants will grow in the shade and how much fun shade garden could be.
aquilegia- columbine
-nora barlow
-green apples
-barlow black
-rockii
-woodside strain
-lepraucn gold
-buergeriana calimero
-barlow blue
-caerulea
-royal purple
-alpina
-clematiflora
-saximontana
-nana alba
arum
-maculatum
-italicum
-nigrum
arisaema
-consanguineum
-candissimum
primula denticulata Ronsdorf strain
-capitata spp mooreana
-denticulata Nepal mix
-obconical formula mix
-japonica Carminea
-beesiana
-vialii
-japonica delux mix
- denticulata blue selection
- cortusoides
-gold lace
- double mix
-poissonii
-crescendo mix
-arctic series
-pubescens
campanula rock garden mix
impatiens jungle gold- those will go in soon - have to give
them jump start for my zone 5
podophyllum hexandrum
polygonatum commutatum- large solomon seal
polygonatum biflorum- small solomon seal
trycytris latifolia and maculata, some others from my own garden, moonlight, lighting strike, etc
mitella diphylla
tiarella wherryl
tiarella poliphylla filigran
heuchera hybrids/ inside/
anemone japonica
anemone multifida
anemone hupensis
anemonopsis macrophylla
pyrola rotundifolia
veratrum nigrum
pulsatilla vulgaris papageno
pulsatilla ludoviciana
gentiana
-cruciata
-semtemfida var lagodechiana
-asclepiadea
-triflora japonica
- dahurica
-dahurica nikita
crambe cordifolia
clematis
-stans
-speciosa pink
-lake baikal series
-recta purpurea
I think several others mine as well some not vining varities
bunch of liliums including martagon white and whild form

aconitums
- heterophyllum
-orientale
- alboviolacea
- uncinatum
-kuznetzovii
-lycoctonum
some others do not remember names
rodgersia podophylla/ inside/
adlumina fungosa- climbing bleeding heart pink
corydalis
-angustofolia
-paczoskii
-ornata
-glauscens
-kuznetzovii
-am sure couple of others as well, nobilis and something else
polygala pauciflora
peltoboykinia tellimoides
boykinia
pinellia tripartita atropurpurea
glaucidum palmatum
beseea calthifolia
trollius ircuticus
arisarum proboscideum/ inside/
hanabusaya asiatica
dicentra dwarf mix
dicentra cucullaria
actaea pachypoda couple of varieties
phytolacca americana silberstein
symplocarpus foetidus skunk cabbage
streptopus roseus
chimaphila umbellata
erythronium sibiricum couple varities
several pinus
several jap maples
abutilon vitifolium/ inside/
aster alpinus several varieites
astrantia major rose symphony and some of my own
cortusa mattioli

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.24.2007 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2007 at 11:28 pm

Making 2 Litre Soda Pop WS Containers (Photo Demo)

posted by: remy on 12.18.2006 at 07:38 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Hi All,
I posted this for some RR friends and I thought I would repost over here.

Here's some photos I took this morning to show how to make a wintersowing container out of a pop bottle. I hope they are clear enough to tell what I did. I used magic marker to hopefully make it easier to understand. When soil is in the container, the top half will not come off out side(Of course there's no guarantee with hurricane force winds!) Oh, and the cap is on the bottle in the photos, but it should not be on for winter sowing. Also, don't forget to poke holes in the bottom for drainage.

This shows where to cut around the bottle. Notice it is more than 1/2 way up. You want to have 3" of soil and then some room above the 3". If you run a box cutter around, it cuts pretty easily.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

This shows the top removed and there are 2 vertical marks where the flap needs to go.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

It is easier to make the flap cuts with scissors.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

The top fits around the outside of the bottom with the flap inside.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's another view in case you can't see the first well.
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Remy

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.16.2007 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2007 at 06:39 pm

not purple...not lavender.....

posted by: phyl345 on 01.21.2007 at 03:15 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

what seed could i buy & w.s. for BLUE flowers....NOT purple...NOT lavender.....catalogs are so misleading about blue, don't you think? phyl

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 10:46 pm

Endless supply of seed envelopes

posted by: pitimpinai on 02.05.2006 at 02:47 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I became more serious about seed trading in October and have been experimenting with seed envelopes. I've used plastic baggies and envelopes made from templates, etc.

A couple traders sent me seeds in folded envelopes made of a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" piece of paper. I thought what a terrific idea. Someone mentioned making seed envelopes from catalog pages. Here 's what I have been making the past couple weeks while waiting for the cold weather:

Image hosting by Photobucket

Place seeds between the flaps, fold it dow, place a small piece of the transparent tape on the tip and the envelope is ready to go. The seeds never came out of the envelopes that I received.

Thanks to my wonderful traders, I've found another way to recycle those seed/plant catalogs. :-) The seeds won't get moldy either. Neat, huh? Pretty too.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 09:38 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 09:40 pm

RE: AK Test Pic (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: donn_ on 01.16.2007 at 06:11 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Unless you have dialup internet access, it's easier to do it this way:

First, you store copies of your pics at a free photo server. In mooseriver's (and mine) case, it's photobucket.com.

After uploading the pics to photobucket, they will be displayed as thumbnails, and each thumbnail will have 3 sets of tags under it.

Simply click the center tag, and it will automatically copy that tag.

Come back here, to a post, and type ctrl-v to copy the tag into the post.

Check the preview to be sure all went well, then submit the post. Your picture will appear in the post.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.16.2007 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2007 at 08:57 pm

How do you grow Daffodi Seeds?

posted by: marbree on 09.19.2006 at 07:25 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Hi

I was wondering how to grow daffodil seeds. I have a few that I've dried out for a few days and then kept in the fridge. I was planning to just plant them at bulb planting time.

Am I doing this right or should I let them dry out more before planting?

They are pretty hard now, but white and firm on the inside. They actually look like small daylily seeds.

(I have a few more for trade on the seed exchange forum and just ask for them there if you're interested. I asked for rose seeds but I really just want to find a home for them.)

Thanks

Marbree

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2006 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2006 at 09:39 pm

Plants that will survive a few frosts and keep going?

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 09.09.2006 at 11:30 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Hi,

Anyone noticed what lasted the longest outside last fall? I thought of Kale being the thing that lasted the longest. Ajuga, plumbago will keep their leaves all winter, or not? Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks
:-)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.10.2006 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 09.10.2006 at 11:15 am