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My 'zinc' counters

posted by: mtnrdredux on 03.20.2011 at 10:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was so sure I wanted zinc. I saw some photos on line I really liked, and I was beginning to channel the Parisian fruit de mer platters.

In person, however, i liked the look of pewter much better. It's warmer and softer. Pewter is about 15% more than zinc.

But I still wish it were called zinc!

So here they are, my faux zinc ... pewter ... counters.

and a long view


got them at a place called Brooks Custom in Mt Kisco, NY (link below). I didnt go direct, it was thru my GC. In this area of the country we don't find many bargains, and of course my GC earns a mark up, too ... so this may not be representative, but Ive given zinc and pewter pricing below. (not including templating and install)

Note that I only need 12" wide because my uppers sit on the counter --- that reduced my costs. I needed about 17.25 linear feet.

14 Gauge ZINC Countertop $4,811.00
� Matte Finish
� 1 1/2" Thick, Bonded to MDF Core
� L Shape: 12" x 84" x 122 3/4" OAD
� Eased Square Edge
� Joints/Seams as Required
� No Cutouts
� No Backsplash
1 seam
18 Gauge PEWTER Countertop $5,204.00
� Matte Finish
� 1 1/2" Thick, Bonded to MDF Core
� L Shape: 12" x 96" x 110 3/4" OAD
� Eased Square Edge
� Joints/Seams as Required
� No Cutouts
� No Backsplash
2 seams

clipped on: 03.24.2011 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2011 at 08:01 pm

Vintage Kitchens - Portland (PDX) ''Kitchen Revival Tour April 16

posted by: johnliu on 03.23.2011 at 01:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here in Portland, we have an active Architectural Heritage Society.

They do a ''Kitchen Revival Tour'' every year, focusing on 1900-1950 era kitchens.

The page below has links to photos from prior years' tours, as well as a link to an article written by one of my friends.

PDX Kitchen Revival Tour

''Sensitive To History: Remodeling A Period Kitchen''

Anyway, the next tour is April 16, 2011. I think I'm going on it, and wanted to highlight this event for anyone interested in PDX, and to make the pictures available for others.

Oh, here's a black-edged tile counter detail for the 1920s/30s fans out there.


clipped on: 03.23.2011 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2011 at 10:16 pm

RE: A Lot Of Livin' In This Kitchen (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: marcolo on 03.19.2011 at 01:15 am in Kitchens Forum

People will jump on me for suggesting it, but I think what this kitchen needs is 30's L.A. style tile.

Like, um, this?

Works for me!


clipped on: 03.19.2011 at 07:13 am    last updated on: 03.19.2011 at 07:13 am

RE: Vintage appliances...or new that looks vintage? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: circuspeanut on 03.10.2011 at 08:41 am in Kitchens Forum

Bought my 1949 O'Keefe & Merritt for about $400, restored it myself for about another $1000, and believe it will last for at least another 60 years. We absolutely adore it.

The brilliant thing about actual vintage appliances is that anything that can break can also be mended or replaced, unlike modern ones.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Some older GW threads discussing vintage ranges:

Vintage stove: practical or not?

O'Keefe and Merritt oven

Any thoughts on reconditioned OKM ranges?

O'Keefe & Merritt 1951

Should I get a second oven if I own a Chambers range?


tile hood
clipped on: 03.10.2011 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2011 at 10:28 pm

RE: Under 2K mini make over pics (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: momto4boys on 05.16.2010 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow, I thought this page dropped off to no man's land, lol. Didn't realize anyone was still looking at it. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the compliments and kind words!!
You all have really helped me accept and love my space even more!

olesya, sorry..yes. Counter is laminate! We didn't have the money to do granite, and honestly wouldn't have in this house anyways.

And yea, my painter was cheap! At first he quoted me $320. At the time we were going with a different look. Going to do some distressing. And I believe a lacquer finish or something. When we changed to the white, no distressing..the job was fairly quick. Oh, and I supplied the paint which I believe originally he was going to.
I love the sprayed finish. It's nice and smooth, no brush strokes. The grain is still there, but I don't mind it at all. I didn't ask him to fill it or anything. There are some areas the grain is pretty heavy, and it seeped in pretty deep. Leaving little grooves. But, I hardly notice any more. I just see the over all result. NO MORE OAK! :)

kitchen monster, here are some pics of during.

all dh did was pop off old molding. glued, then nailed 6 inch MDF back where the old crown was. And use a little trim piece where the cabinet and MDF met. And added the crown back on.









clipped on: 03.10.2011 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2011 at 10:13 pm

Finished Traditional Kitchen (lots of pics)

posted by: jm_seattle on 03.05.2011 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

THANK YOU GARDENWEB! We got so many great ideas from this forum, and everybody was so incredibly helpful and generous.

Here are some pics and a few details:
Kitchen corner
Refrigerator and pantry:
Message center:
Message center with built-in chalkboard
Breakfast nook:
Breakfast nook
Our KD wanted an extremely large window area to bring in light, but made it fit into the old house by breaking it up and using leaded glass:
new leaded glass windows
Sink w/glass filler, runnels, & built-in compost bin:
Sink w/Runnels & built-in compost bin
Built-in compost bin close-up:
Built-in compost bin
Mug shelf:
Mug Shelf
Charging drawer. This entire cabinet is deeper than it appears because it is built into the interior wall behind it, gaining an extra 4" or so of storage space without creeping into the walkway in front of it:
Charging station built into drawer
Island cabinets:
Island cabinets wtih cutting board
Miele ovens installed as flush inset (I searched and never did find pictures of this, so hopefully these will help somebody else):
Miele appliances mounted flush inset
Cleaning closet in "invented space" from interior wall:
Cleaning closet
Extra depth for the vacuum was made by reducing the depth of the drawers under the pantry:
Cleaning closet
The placement of the outlet underneath the music player shelf allows the nasty cordness to be hidden from eye-level:
Music Shelf
Toe-kick heater vent. The toe-kick face under the message center & island is covered with stained oak flooring. From eye-level, the toe-kick absorbs the correct amount of light and gives the appearance of freestanding cabinets.
Under island heater vent
The freestanding appearance is clearer here:
Cabinet built-into wall
Drawers under nook seating area:
Under-seat drawers in nook
There is a powder room off the kitchen. This wasn't our first choice, but ended up being our only choice in this old house, and has been okay, especially considering its placement is directly next to the hallway and away from the primary cooking area:
Bathroom off of kitchen
Adjacent mudroom, which became part of the kitchen remodel. The door is to a laundry chute which we use mostly for kitchen towels & napkins.

Here is a link that might be useful: More pictures


Breakfast nook:
extremely large window area
Sink w/glass filler, runnels
Mug shelf
Cleaning closet in "invented space" from interior wall

clipped on: 03.05.2011 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2011 at 06:12 pm

RE: Vintage kitchen design (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: ZacsDaddy on 02.23.2011 at 06:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow ... that looks like my current kitchen!

Original 1936 Kitchen


clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 07:20 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 07:20 pm

RE: Vintage kitchen design (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: marcolo on 02.23.2011 at 04:32 pm in Kitchens Forum


**One detail I like: Old kitchens of the '20s through '40s with an undermount sink, rather than a farm or freestanding sink, typically have tiled-in sinks with a band of black or colored tile along the front edge of the counter surface.**
Marcolo, do you have a link or photo of that? It sounds gorgeous, but I can't quite picture it. Waah!

Found it!

Reading all the recent posts about quartz counter edges chipping, I'm wondering if it's possible to do the main countertop surface in Caesarstone with only the edges in tile??


clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 07:16 pm

Finished kitchen... well, almost finished

posted by: kiffgirl on 02.20.2011 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you to everyone who posts here for your questions, opinions, advice, suggestions, photos, guidance, support, stories, trials, and tribulations. Although we found this site later in our project, we still gained so much and avoided some serious errors thanks to all of you!

Our previous kitchen was not old, but painfully small. As a two cook family, it just didn't work. We didn't have much room to work with to expand and, because of a window in the bedroom below, we angled the space to minimize the overhang. We started construction in August on the small addition and finished (almost) in January. Final trim, accessories, and window treatments still to come.

Our kitchen before:


And now...




Adding seating at the island was a last minute change and it has made such a difference for us.



Products used:

Custom cherry cabinets by Mills Brothers Fine Woodworking
Luce de Luna quartzite counters
Viking Range - reused from previous kitchen
Viking Hood - reused, but added chimney
F&P dish drawers - reused
KitchenAid counter depth refrigerator
Marvel Wine Cooler
GE Advantium
Terra Verre tiles for backsplash
Artemide pendants
Knobs and pulls - Restoration Hardware
Grohe faucet main sink
Hansgrohe faucet prep sink
Fanke Orca main sink
Ticor prep sink
Eye-Vac under sink - one of my favorite things. Just sweep up to the toe kick and the mini vac automatically sucks up what is in front of it. A must with wood floors and 2 dogs and 2 cats!


Luce de Luna quartzite counters
clipped on: 02.20.2011 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2011 at 08:36 pm

My DIY circa 1910 Bathroom

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.02.2008 at 09:49 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I started this in March, and thankfully it was finished faster than my DIY kitchen (at 15 months, that was an ordeal nonpareil).


More photos at Photobucket.


Here is a link that might be useful: My Photobucket


navy walls
white subway
basket weave floor with 1x1 edge
clipped on: 04.21.2010 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2010 at 10:18 pm

RE: Florida Joshua's job for the day (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rjr220 on 05.14.2010 at 12:58 am in Kitchens Forum

sis2two -- your kitchen is one that has inspired me along the way! I'm thinking of doing a modified version of this following BS, but I'm not quite sure if it "goes" with my kitchen. Pretty much here I've chosen what I liked, and I like this, but I don't know if it goes with the rest! I'm would use a quieter porcelain version of the marble, so as not to compete with the counter. I'm also considering not using the marble-like porcelain, but perhaps a 6 x 8 white subway, like what segbrown used, but still do the row of glass (sumi-e ongari natural).


Flowers -- the cabinets are custom birch with a "wild cherry" stain. The cabinet maker did a wonderful job. The insides are just as pretty as the outside! Thanks for the comment!


make the shower walls like this.
clipped on: 05.14.2010 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2010 at 10:20 pm

RE: I need pictures of White Subway tile (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: rookie_2010 on 04.28.2010 at 03:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't have white subway in my kitchen but I have a shower done in it. It's just a plain white ceramic tile from Florida tile Retro Classics with snow white grout (about a quarter shade off bright white).
When choosing between beveled and non, I was advised that I would get a tighter joint or grout line with non-beveled. Again, mine was for a shower so I went with non-beveled for that reason alone. I don't think it's as big a concern on a backsplash nor do I think that it's that big a difference between grout line sizes.

What the heck, even though this is the kitchen forum, white subway is white subway right?

White subway in shower and my daughter's leg, she was eating her snack on the bench....


clipped on: 04.30.2010 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2010 at 10:03 pm

Finally, 1 remodeled bath and 1 new one

posted by: sundownr on 03.15.2010 at 09:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We have wanted to remodel the bath rooms in our 1930's house for a long time (we've lived here 16 yrs) but could never make a decision on what to do. Finally decided to just do it. This forum was such an inspiration and I want to thank everyone that posts here. I will say I always wanted more bathroom pictures here so I'm posting mine. :)

The hall bath floor plan wasn't great so I stole closets out of the bedrooms on each side. BR#1 had another closet so no big deal. BR#2 is separated from the master BR by the original master bath and master closet so we decided to give the bath and closet to BR#2 and to convert a spare room (sewing/junk room) into a new master bath & closet.

I went to a couple of tile stores and "made up my mind" more than once. One Saturday I was looking at marble and another customer said - have you seen the porcelain that looks like marble? I hadn't. She showed it to me and I was sold. That's what I used in the hall bath.

It was hard to pick out finishes because I like so many different styles. I did buy the master bath vanity from the Restoration Hdwe outlet and I wish I hadn't. I bought it for the hall bath but then changed the whole floor plan. That meant I had to use it in the master and it was so long that I didn't have many floor plan options because of 6' vanity, windows etc.

I don't know if anyone read my original thread about the bathroom where I asked about a chandelier but I ended up picking the "bubble" tile as an accent and decided on this chandelier with the round glass balls. I'm not sure if it "goes" but I don't care. I like it.

What's done is done and I do like love both of them. We had a "bathrooms are finished"/birthday party Saturday and of the 40 people here most of them preferred the hall bath.

Original hall bath


Standing by the tub looking towards the door at the hall.

The new master closet and bath will be behind that window (which was originally to a porch that was converted to a room years ago).

New bathroom from hallway


The towel rack is actually a toilet paper holder. The counter is soapstone.

Dual flush toilet from Home Depot, (love the dual flush) Mercer train rack from Pottery Barn

Pedestal tub from Van Dyke's Restoration. It was the cheapest one from a place that I couldn't find bad reviews of. Plus it's owned by Cabela's.

Copycat pottery barn chandelier from overstock. You can barely see the dropped crown molding with the black paint extended down the wall. There is rope lighting behind the crown for a "night light".

The new master bath




I inherited this cabinet and all of the Lladro from my mom. I've had it for years with no place to put it in our tiny house so it's been boxed up in the basement. Someone else picked paint colors for me and this color is so beautiful in real life - SW Rainwashed. It reminded me of the Lladro so I brought some of it up and I think it looks great in this bathroom. The painting is also from my mom and she and my dad bought it in Spain many, many years ago. This room screamed for the painting, too.


Although the back yard hasn't been completely cleaned of all the remodeling mess, I love the view from the bathroom and can't decide what kind of window covering to use and keep the view.

I was still changing floor plans after the bathroom was demo'd. I (obviously) didn't plan it all that well because I had to buy the freestanding towel rack for the master bath and the hall bath doesn't have a place to hang a towel while you are showering but we'll work it out. :) There isn't any storage in the hall bath so I bought three file boxes from the Container Store for "stuff" and I like them. The basket under the vanity is for dirty washcloths/hand towels. My 15 yr old daughter uses this bathroom.


clipped on: 04.27.2010 at 07:53 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2010 at 07:53 pm

B & W checkerboard/subway tile kids' bath

posted by: hoffman on 01.13.2008 at 08:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum








Kohler Memoirs toilet & sink
Kohler pinstripe faucets & accessories
Kohler villager tub (the only one that would fit)
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet, pushbutton switches & light fixtures
Daltile subway tile & black liners
marble mosaic checkerboard floor tile
Pottery Barn Kids towels & shower curtain
BM "white satin" paint
Nero Marquina (black) marble windowsill


subway bathroom
black and white floor
clipped on: 04.21.2010 at 07:00 am    last updated on: 04.21.2010 at 07:00 am

Cool $ saving idea for a carerra marble subway tile backsplash

posted by: caligirl_cottage on 02.16.2008 at 10:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was in a kitchen showroom today and they had a carerra marble subway tile backsplash, which I covet on and off depending on my mood for the day. Anyway, carerra subway tiles are crazy-expensive, but the showroom guy confessed that they just got 12X12 carerra tiles from HD (which I know are not more than $3 or so a foot) and used a stone cutter to cut them down to 3X6 subway tiles. How hard could that be? Not very, and they looked pretty darn good. I suppose you could do the same for any of those stone tiles that you get in a subway size and save money.


marble subway tile
clipped on: 04.13.2010 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2010 at 08:27 pm

RE: Deeper counters? Where, how? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rhome410 on 04.11.2010 at 11:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Instead of deepening the whole sink wall, could you box out the window like Erikanh and Mamadadapaige did? That moves the window back from the sink, but doesn't require deepening the whole wall of counters.

Remember that if you deepen the counter by 6", it shortens the adjacent run by 6" 6" less width for cabinets...but maybe you already have that figured out.

I think you mean you need the island to be 48" wide to accommodate 2 people on the end?

Erikanh's window inside and from outside. (I REALLY wish I had done this):




Do window like this if ever possible.
clipped on: 04.12.2010 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2010 at 06:51 pm

RE: Pictures of tile 'rugs' in your kitchen (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.19.2010 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

This first one is the only one I have in a kitchen. The rest are either bathrooms or front entries:








tile rugs
clipped on: 02.19.2010 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2010 at 10:38 pm

RE: If not white, what painted cabinet color? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: pickle2 on 02.09.2010 at 09:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for all the suggestions! I need to visit the local stores that carry F&B and FPE for some samples and put them up on our old cabinet doors. I've been staring at my F&B card for awhile. Love the Cooking Apple Green, but it scares my husband. Maybe something like Shaded White or Old White or something more tan?

Bumblebee...hmmm...Could I use these as accent tiles?

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

The green tiles are Pratt and Larson R-gloss tiles. The tile is PF-28XX (2x8 field tile). The field tiles come in a ton of sizes as well as diamonds, hexagons, etc. The sample board is from Architerra in Austin, TX. My husband took a photo of the board a year ago when we didn't even own our current house. The darkest green shows a little light in this photo. It's darker in real life.

I also love P&L's Victorian glaze tiles. So pretty! Reminds me of Monet's Water Lilies for some reason. (Just sharing some tile love.)

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


Explore this tile
clipped on: 02.13.2010 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2010 at 11:18 pm

RE: Plugmold, do you regret it? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: plllog on 01.26.2010 at 04:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

My island has plugmold, but it's an unusual configuration with a 6" overhang. I prefer the looks of plugmold, and you can paint the housing of the metal kind before you wire it if you want to have a particular color.

You (or electrician) can put a GFI switch on plugmold, but if you're using it for all of your outlets, you can also put it on its own circuit and make the whole circuit GFI. Otherwise, there's a whole thing about the order of the plugs and switches where you have to know what you're doing to wire the GFI correctly.


GFI kitchen plugmold circuits
clipped on: 01.26.2010 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2010 at 09:01 pm

RE: Whole house surge suppressor (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: fin1 on 01.21.2010 at 07:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

We needed 3. One for each box and one for our generator.
The units he used are called Intermatic Panel Guard. IG1240RC. ( I just checked the boxes) The job was $425.00. I don't know if that is the going rate elsewhere.
I don't think they are all that common. I only know of a few people who have them, but as we were building, it sounded like a good idea to me.


Ask Randy about this.
clipped on: 01.21.2010 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2010 at 10:02 pm

RE: Whole house surge suppressor (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: petepie1 on 01.21.2010 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

We put one in after a nearby strike took out our garbage disposal and some lamps. Our neighbor lost her air conditioner compressor unit. We paid an electrician around $300 to put one on the main breaker box, but found out later that we could have paid our local utility company $8/month to put one on the outside meter. So check your utility company too.


Ask REC about one of these.
clipped on: 01.21.2010 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2010 at 10:00 pm

RE: advice needed....Glass blocks in a bathroom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: hostagrams on 08.14.2008 at 08:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks for the compliments! I've tried to find better pics but it's just not an area that was easy to photograph. I'll try to describe it . . . This may be way more information than you want! I miss my old bathroom so it's been fun for me to revisit! The house was on a lake, so it had two "fronts" -- this was the side that faced the road.
I'm showing the outside so you can see the relative dimensions. The entire stone bumpout is the shower. The glass block enclosure from end wall to the curve was about 5' x 5', with an additional 2' or so for the entrance, where the shelves and towel bar were. The window set on end is 4x4. The shower ceiling was actually what you see in the bumpout -- sort of a shower with "cathedral" ceiling! Incidentally, the window to the left is the WC and to the right, the tub.
The glass block wall, taken from beside the tub. Wish I'd noticed the scissors on the counter before snapping . . . but can I brag about the paint job? My first attempt at faux painting! I loved how it came out . . . my painter was working at the time and kept coming into the bathroom to see what I was doing! It was fun, because he was impressed!
The far end of the shower had the rain shower head; the ajacent wall had a hand-held bar, next to the window. I was really trying to record the inset tile pattern for future use. The window wall had larger insets.

The shelves never got wet because they were too far from the water source. It was a perfect setup.

I'm still trying to find the decorative tile -- I'd kill (well, almost) to use it again, but it seems to have disappeared from the face of the earth. The pic below shows the decorative inset that was in the floor, just inside the curb that shows in the initial picture. It was set on the diagonal to echo the wall insets and the window. It was called Interamerica Indian Slate 13 x 13 Mosaic . . . I so wanted to use it again but have struck out finding it anywhere.


glass block shower
good wall tile idea
clipped on: 01.04.2010 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2010 at 07:24 pm

RE: Anyone Have the FX180 Formica Countertops? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: saskgal on 12.23.2009 at 10:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just realized I called the formica finish "etching" and it should have been "radiance" sorry about that.

Here is a pic of my new pullouts. I especially love my trash pullout, it is high enough I just stand beside it and peel potatoes, the peels just drop into garbage.


My cookiesheet pullout



trash and cookie sheet pull out
clipped on: 12.25.2009 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2009 at 09:10 pm

RE: Installing Cabinet Pulls - Two to a Drawer (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cheri127 on 12.19.2009 at 03:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

In our 37" drawer base the pulls are 18.5" apart, measured from the center and on our 40" drawer base they are 19.5" apart, also measured from the center.



spacing for drawer pulls.
clipped on: 12.19.2009 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2009 at 05:30 pm

RE: Paging Pinch_me, re review of Broan E661 hood (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bob_cville on 12.08.2009 at 10:21 am in Appliances Forum

I have the Broan E661 range hood, and have it hooked up so that the hood uses the rear exit on the fan housing, and then enters a 3 1/4 X 14 inch, 90 deg elbow and travels up inside the wall between the studs in a 3 1/4 X 14 rectangular duct, up into the soffit above the cabinets, where it transitions to a 8 in round duct and goes another 18 inches up through the roof.

Except for the two 8" adjustable elbows to go from the transition to the roof, my local Lowes had NONE of the necessary duct pieces.

I ordered the transition and roof cap from The 3 1/4 X 14 inch, 90 deg elbow was really hard to find. I ended up ordering 2 of them and a 3 foot stretch of 3 1/4 x 14 inch duct from a different online location (that I won't name because they charged $41 for shipping for those three items)

In the end I only needed one of the two 3 1/4 x 14 inch, 90 deg elbows, so if you need one, I have one that is unused, and we could probably work out a deal.


In the end I only needed one of the two 3 1/4 x 14 inch, 90 deg elbows, so if you need one, I have one that is unused, and we could probably work out a deal.
clipped on: 12.08.2009 at 04:53 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2009 at 05:03 pm

RE: Great Deal on GE Induction Range at BestBuy! (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: stir_fryi on 10.28.2009 at 08:39 am in Appliances Forum

I am buying the Kenmore slide-in induction today because it is on sale for 2099 (cheaper than the free-standing!).

netbat: do not use thin steel pans on induction unless they are going to be used to heat sauces only.

Do you think this was due to induction technology or the burner was just up too high?

I was going to buy some cheaper Ikea pans that are induction capable because I'll be broke after buying the stove -- I hope they will work ok.


10.28.2009 I am buying the Kenmore slide-in induction today because it is on sale for 2099
clipped on: 11.12.2009 at 11:08 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2009 at 11:09 pm

RE: 1940's kitchen picture source? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: patser on 10.26.2009 at 06:28 am in Old House Forum

Here's a link to the 40s from another old home lover...
Scroll about 1/2 way down on the left.

Here is a link that might be useful: blog


clipped on: 11.11.2009 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2009 at 10:43 pm

RE: 1940's kitchen picture source? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dilly_dally on 10.26.2009 at 12:27 am in Old House Forum

My fav:

Here is a link that might be useful: Reto Kitchens


clipped on: 11.11.2009 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2009 at 10:43 pm

RE: 1940's kitchen picture source? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: macv on 10.26.2009 at 08:10 am in Old House Forum

Just google 1940 kitchen or see link below.

These kitchens were not very functional or attractive IMHO but I grew up in one.

Here is a link that might be useful: 1940 kitchens


clipped on: 11.11.2009 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2009 at 10:42 pm

RE: Anyone have a wood burning stove? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: dayenu on 07.20.2009 at 09:23 pm in Old House Forum

here is my jotul in the living room. circa 80's

Here is a link that might be useful: jotul in living room


clipped on: 11.10.2009 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2009 at 10:43 pm

RE: Anyone out there who hates their induction unit? (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: fori on 11.09.2009 at 04:13 pm in Appliances Forum

I slide cast iron pots around, gently. The glass is pretty tough and resistant to scratching unless it has grit on it. It's the same material made by the same companies that make the glass for traditional electric cooktops if you have experience with any of those.

If scratching is a concern, and I'm sure it can happen, many use a Silpat or other material between cooktop and pot. Me, I'd rather use that if and when it gets too scratched to be presentable. :)


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RE: Anyone out there who hates their induction unit? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: beachlily on 10.26.2009 at 08:32 am in Appliances Forum

I've got the Sears slide in induction, and no you can't have it!


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RE: Anyone out there who hates their induction unit? (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: cj47 on 10.25.2009 at 11:29 pm in Appliances Forum

Country Smile, I regularly use my 7L Kuhn Rikon Pressure cooker on the induction burner--no worries there. Works great. I've got one kid down with the flu at the moment, and another coming down with it--but when I get a minute to breathe, I'll be contacting you to play 20 questions about your Miele cooktop! :-) Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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RE: Anyone out there who hates their induction unit? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: plllog on 10.27.2009 at 05:11 am in Appliances Forum

I'm the one with the induction and gas (also, Gizmonike has a gas range with a single, powerful induction element to the side), but my cooktops are both still in the boxes waiting for the countertop to be finished. (Finally got the materials today--yeehaw!!!)

But I thought I should mention that there were some people on this board who imported induction units from England and New Zealand before they were readily available in North America, who did need some service, and least one person pretty much junked two units because he couldn't get service back then. Inductors have failed. It is possible to have problems with induction, just like anything else. But induction has been around for a couple of decades and has been very popular in Europe and Asia. It's a mature technology, and works at least as well as any other.

In this respect, it's a lot like microwaves. There are all kinds of different controls and appearances, but most of the inductors are made by a couple of companies, who make them well. Other than the inductors there really aren't "moving parts".


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RE: Anyone out there who hates their induction unit? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: jxbrown on 10.24.2009 at 11:12 am in Appliances Forum

I bought my Kenmore before a sample was available in the store and waited a couple of months for delivery. It's now 4 years old (and the glass is scratch free!) and I think it's great. The controls are a little balky sometimes, but other than that, I think it's a huge improvement over both gas and electric. Safer, too.

I use a Waring Pro freestanding solid element burner for the pressure canner.


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: macybaby on 10.24.2009 at 10:24 pm in Appliances Forum

Looked at the Samsung today and did not like the hob layout. Salesman at Lowes said something about the new electrolux would have both induction/regular on all burners. He said it would sense if the pan was induction compatable and if not than use non induction heating. I asked if he meant some hobs were induction and some regular (the hybrid I've seen) and he said No, all could be used for induction if you had the right pan on the burner.

It may be several more months before I'm ready to deal with the range wall, so I'm hoping the new electrolux will be out by then. Would love a slide in but don't like the look of the Sears - but I sort of expect the electrolux to look about the same.

However now that I've gotten use to the idea of a cooktop and separate wall oven, I'm not sure I even want to consider a slide in again (I'm driving DH nuts too).


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: weedmeister on 10.24.2009 at 01:43 pm in Appliances Forum

We're talking about 'range' here. It hooks up like any other electric range. You shouldn't have any problems as long as your current circuit is rated sufficiently.

'Cooktops' would be the same in that if the current circuit is the same or higher rating, you should have no problem hooking it up, though cooktops are normally designed to be directly connected without a plug.

I saw the Samsung range at BB. Where the other induction ranges (Kenmore, GE) have individual controls for each hob, the Samsung has only one control for all hobs. You select which hob you want to set, then the setting. It apparently uses a 'slider' for the level setting. That is, you run your finger across a scale, left to right, to set the power level. This is different from those that have '+/-' buttons but is the same as the Cooktek Apogee that I have.


the Samsung has only one control for all hobs. You select which hob you want to set, then the setting.
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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: alabamanicole on 10.23.2009 at 11:08 am in Appliances Forum

The Electrolux rep told me that there was indeed an Electrolux induction range coming out "soon," which usually means in the fall sometime. And it would be an "improved version" of the one they make under the Kenmore Elite badge.

That's all I got. I would assume there would be both freestanding and slide-in models, since they already make them for Kenmore, but you never know.


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: alabamanicole on 10.05.2009 at 09:49 am in Appliances Forum

I've got my eye on this one, too. It's pretty, that's for sure, and the $1700 price at Best Buy is quite affordable.

Cons, for me:
It doesn't have the glide-out racks like the upcoming Electrolux probably will.
The burner sizes seem a little odd to me
Touch controls

Although there is a backspash control, the temperature of the burners themselves is controlled on the surface near the front of the range, so you don't have to reach over any hot pots.


the temperature of the burners themselves is controlled on the surface near the front of the range, so you don't have to reach over any hot pots.
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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: arley on 10.05.2009 at 09:30 am in Appliances Forum

Checked out the stove at H H Gregg and at Best Buy.

Here are the wattages for the hobs:

Left front 2400, boost to 3700
Left Rear 1400, boost to 2000
Right Front 1400 boost to 2000
right rear 1800 boost to 2600

The power boost function stops after 10 minutes and it then defaults to 'high'

Those power levels are consistent with other induction cooktops in this price range (and you have a oven, to boot!)

According to the owners' manual there are 9 power levels for each hob. However, there are about 30 LED's in a graphical power display, so I don't know if there are steps between the levels (which would make, in effect, more levels to choose from).

FWIW, Best Buy had it for $1700 and HHGregg had it for $1875. I didn't check what that included (delivery, installation, etc.) so by the time all those factors were included the prices may be closer to each other.

While I didn't use the stove, for as much as you can tell by just looking at it, it looks like a pretty good stove for the money. Would like to hear from someone who actually has used it.


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: gsciencechick on 10.04.2009 at 03:10 pm in Appliances Forum

They got them in at Lowe's. I do not care much for all-electronic controls (looks too Darth Vader to me) and prefer knobs, but overall, it looks very good. Through tomorrow they have 10% off all Samsung, but if Best Buy has it for $1699 Lowe's should price match. Darn, that's a good price considering I was looking at GE Profile smoothtops, non-induction.

I don't think my Circulon pans that I got last Christmas will work with it, though.


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: arley on 10.01.2009 at 10:22 am in Appliances Forum

Thanks for the link, kaffine; the price of $1800-2000 sounds pretty reasonable just for a cooktop with those wattages, and this is for an entire range! They list the timers as 'kitchen timers' as opposed to shutoff timers, but for that price it seems like a pretty good deal. (To get shutoff timers on a cooktop you're talking a higher price range.)

When they make it to my local Best Buy I'm gonna take a look at it. I wish Samsung would post a PDF of the user's manual. I'd like to know how many cooking levels the hobs have. My little induction hot plate only has 6 (that's too few), and Cooktek's induction units have 100 (that's probably overkill).


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lennym on 10.01.2009 at 08:56 am in Appliances Forum

A consumer/reviewer of one of the other high end Samsung electric ranges on the Best Buy site writes, in part:

"The oven works very good, altough it is quite big for me since I don't bake a lot (I wish it were a double oven like the maytag). But i've used the steam clean feature and it's the greatest idea someone ever had to make cleaning an oven a little easier. Don't expect the grease to be collected at the bottom of the oven to wipe it down. You still have to wipe the whole oven to get rid of that, but at least is easier than trying to scrape it out. Love the hidden baking element though it makes cleaning a lot easier."


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RE: 30 Inch Samsung Induction Range $1999 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kaffine on 09.30.2009 at 11:43 pm in Appliances Forum

Kinda of an odd layout for the burners but I could live with it. I would prefer a second large burner but I don't use 2 large burners at the same time very often.

Does anyone know how well the steam clean oven works?

The PDF spec sheet lists the wattage of the burners.

Here is a link that might be useful: Spec sheet


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RE: Kenmore Induction Range (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: beachlily on 11.03.2009 at 10:31 am in Appliances Forum

I didn't leave the racks in the oven during the cleaning. Nothing was dirty. I just wanted to see what would happen when the cleaning cycle is used. All but one of the rails on the oven walls is chipped from use. A bit over the top considering we only slide the racks in and out--we don't use force at all. A service call is scheduled for Thurs. a.m. so I'll just wait and see.


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RE: Kenmore Induction Range (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: stir_fryi on 11.03.2009 at 08:44 am in Appliances Forum

Hmmmm... very interesting! I also noticed a small spot where the enamel flaked off at the spot the rack slides back and forth. I have only used the oven once so the racks have not been moved much!

When I bought the range, I was concerned about the enameled racks -- in my old KA range, they were SS. I'd take them out and scrub them with an SOS pad until they were shiny clean. I don't think I can do that with these ones. The directions say to leave them in the oven while self-cleaning -- did the racks get clean again?


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Kenmore Induction Range

posted by: beachlily on 11.02.2009 at 07:57 pm in Appliances Forum

The thread on the Kenmore induction range has been interesting, but when someone posted that there may be problems after cleaning these ranges .... well, I just hit the button.

The range is about 2.5 month old, light use, but just loving it! When the oven cooled down from the clean cycle, a swipe with a microfiber cloth showed that shards of enamel were loose. On the rack rails, shiny spots indicate that the racks themselves are removing enamel every time they are used.

I'll call Sears tomorrow and find out their reaction. Silly me, I just thought those lovely blue ovens had flaking problems. Now I find that this run-of-the-mill gray enamel oven is a flake, too!


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