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RE: Good sources for RevAShelf stuff ? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: alku05 on 01.27.2008 at 08:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm in CA too, and found that is was cheaper to order from shelvesthatslide.com rather than Ovis b/c they're located in Arizona (cheaper shipping!). I purchased my filler pullouts and trash pullouts from them, and was quite happy with the transaction. Also, due to my request, they promptly added the door mount kit for the trash pullouts to their website when I called and needed them.

They also have reasonable return policies unlike most sites that sell this stuff.

NOTES:

rev a shelf site
clipped on: 01.28.2008 at 03:38 am    last updated on: 01.28.2008 at 03:38 am

RE: Do you line your new kitchen drawers and shelves? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 01.27.2008 at 05:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay, if Mariposa reads this she's gonna start bustin' on me but good again....

I am NOT a line my drawers/shelves kind of gal, but after reading about Cushy Cupboards on this forum (do a search--you'll find plenty!), thought it might be a good idea to get a roll, and line some of my drawers/pull-outs. My mixer pull-out and pots/pans drawers and pull-outs immediately came to mind (to protect them from scratchesand marking from the metal) and possibly my pantry pull-out that I'd be using to store oils and vinegars (they always leave rings and residue where the bottles have been).

Well, that first roll got used up pretty darned fast, and I ended up ordering a second roll to line a few more assorted drawers and pull-outs (cue Mari's laughter....). The under-sink pull-outs could benefit from some protection from minor leaks and cleaning supply drips and spills. Lining some of those other drawers and pull-outs would prevent items from sliding all over while opening and closing them. Well, you get the picture. I did draw the line have refrained from lining every drawer and pull-out, and I am proud to say, that my shelves have remained unlined.......!!! LOL!

NOTES:

cabinet liner
clipped on: 01.28.2008 at 03:31 am    last updated on: 01.28.2008 at 03:31 am

RE: May i see your tiled backsplashes please (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: lobotome on 11.12.2007 at 01:00 am in Kitchens Forum

Sheesh the first try didn't work

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

NOTES:

backsplash tile
clipped on: 01.22.2008 at 03:09 am    last updated on: 01.22.2008 at 03:09 am

RE: Show me your mini-brick backsplash... (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: babka on 01.14.2008 at 08:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ours are really small (1/2 x 3/4"). Tumbled laguna verde marble. The ones we wanted (1x3") were out of stock at the time and time was a factor.


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Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


NOTES:

backsplash tile
clipped on: 01.16.2008 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2008 at 01:30 pm

RE: TV in the kitchen -- any recommendations? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: amylville on 01.13.2008 at 11:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I dont have one on my counter but I have seen undercounter mount Flat screens that swivel and flip up when not in use. Circuit city sells them.

NOTES:

kitchen tv
clipped on: 01.14.2008 at 04:55 am    last updated on: 01.14.2008 at 04:55 am

RE: TV in the kitchen -- any recommendations? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: coolbeans on 01.13.2008 at 11:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I have this Samsung 15" flat panel LCD TV attached to a swivel mount on the wall so that it can be turned toward the kitchen or toward the breakfast table. I can cook with Ina or have coffee with Meredith & Matt.
Photobucket

NOTES:

kitchen tv
clipped on: 01.14.2008 at 04:52 am    last updated on: 01.14.2008 at 04:53 am

RE: insurance claim kitchen (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: partst on 12.28.2007 at 04:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow saskatchewan_girl Why didn't they replace the upper cabinets? The fellow that works for DH said he had no problem with the insurance company. They replaced the uppers because they couldn't match the lowers. He did pay to upgrade from tile to granite. Insurance paid for the new sink because the old one, the house was only 5 years old, wouldn't fit in the new cabinets plus he put hard wood floors in instead of carpet and tile in the kitchen and the insurance paid for it.

When we had the big flood our insurance just gave me a check, big check, for all the estimates I gave them. I hired all the subs, paid them with my own check, and I really don't think State Farm cared what I did. We painted ourselves so saved that money to up grade something else. They even paid me to move my antique furniture because I couldn't find a moving company that would take the responsibility and couldn't guarantee no damage.

When I submitted the bill for the Marriott, along with food allowance, and mileage from driving back and forth from the hotel to the house they paid with no questions ask.

We also have a mortgage protection policy, different company, and they covered our deductible and paid our mortgage for the time the house was unlivable. It costs under $150.00 a year and covered everything. Will even pay off the mortgage if the house is a total loss, even from earthquakes, We had a small mortgage with that house but my State Farm agent said it was the best money we could spend when I showed him the policy.

You really have to do your home work with insurance. I go over our once a year and finally ask for a list of everything that I could add to our policy. We added quit a bit and it didn't cost much more. My question to my agent was why wouldn't we buy demolition and removal for a total loss if we had known about it. Cost less than $20.00 a year but would save thousands if we needed it.

NOTES:

insurance
clipped on: 01.01.2008 at 07:34 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2008 at 07:34 pm

RE: Restoration work instead of replacement window? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: booksat on 05.04.2007 at 07:40 pm in Windows Forum

Hi Kelly002,

$225 a window for mechanical restoration is a good price...if it's quality work. Make sure that all work is specified on your contract. Window glazing should be replaced or restored; if you have sash cords they should be replaced with copper chain, the parting beads should be replaced, locks should be realigned and meeting rails made to meet tightly, spring-bronze weatherstripping is great. I had bulb weatherstripping routed into the bottom of the lower sash and the top of the upper sash. If the windows need painting, having this done while the windows are out is of course far easier, but costly.
Do you mind saying who is going to perform this work?

The Harvey Storms have worked well, though we've had them less than a year. They definitely made a difference. Make sure the install is done carefully. If your old house is like ours, a good bit of air infiltration comes from within the window frame itself. While they're putting up the storms, pay them a bit extra to caulk well around the exterior of the window frame.

GOOD LUCK

NOTES:

window restoration
clipped on: 12.27.2007 at 01:13 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2007 at 01:13 pm

RE: Restoration work instead of replacement window? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: matthias on 06.13.2007 at 01:58 pm in Windows Forum

Kelly002

Dear Kelly002, et al -

I live in the greater Boston area.

Last year, I recently went through a similar thought process. My house is over 100 years old, I live in the historic district (ie have rules on what/how visible feature of the house can be repleced, etc.) and, frankly, I like the aesthetics of my old wooden windows.

I also believe that a big part to energy conservation that is overlooked is the return on ones investment. As I investigated different options that where comparable to the architectural character of my house, I was amazed at the costs. New windows, installed, were in excess of $900-1000 per window! Having 45 windows = $45K. When you look at the basic math of "new" quality windows, you come to realize that their return on the investment is negligable and very long term - maybe 20-30 years?

Additionally, it is not like you can increase the valuation of your house and if you do not use good windows you can negatively impact the value - cheap windows don't last and the look losey

As I investigated the drafts, the lack of comfort in both noise and weather drafts, it became clear that the real culprit was not the glass window, but the weight cavity which separates the outside from the inside by 2 one ince pices of moulding. The option I ended up going with was to hire a local guy who uses a counterbalance system from Pullman Manufacturing in upstate NY and a little yankee ingenuity. The counter balance allowed us to agressively insulate the weight cavity, caulk the windows, install new parting beads and clean up around the window frame and window stops - even clean the windows. The real cost was the manual labor and know how. The total cost was about $200.00 per window and it really works. The first thing I noticed was that the sound outside was muted dramatically. Since then my house is really comfortable - ie warmer in the winter and the cooler in the summer - although it would be nice if they had better regulation devices on A/C.

On the financial side, the 8-10K investment should pay for itself in less than 5 years.

One other aesthetic comment - I found myself not covering the windows as much - because they looked great with new brass wood screws and window locks that where installed.

lol

NOTES:

window restoration
clipped on: 12.27.2007 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2007 at 01:12 pm

RE: Easy technique for painting window grids? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paintguy on 11.07.2007 at 07:37 pm in Paint Forum

One thing that might be worth a shot is some of that liquid masking. One I have heard good things about is Jasco Mask and Seal. We used to just spray it over the whole window and the product would sink into the wood but not the glass so that after you are done painting you just peel it off the glass. What you can do is just use a brush and it's okay if you get some on the wood because after you are done painting you will just score the line between the wood and glass and just peel the liquid masking off. Just don't leave it on too long before removing it....follow the manufacturers recs concerning that.

NOTES:

window painting film
clipped on: 12.26.2007 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 12.26.2007 at 09:49 pm

What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !

posted by: florida_joshua on 10.24.2007 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I did a little test to answer the question.

The products:

Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
Bee's Oil
Regular Mineral Oil
Mystery Oil

First a brief discription (my opinion)

Clapham's: It is a paste, inbetween a wax and a liquid. Goes on easy and feels amazing after you put it on. On the touch catagory it is the best of the bunch.

Bee's Oil: It is a wax. A little harder to get on but if you heat it up it would be easier. Has stay power. This is at the top when it comes to keeping the patina on the stone.

Regular Mineral Oil: Needs no discription. It's easy to apply. Would keep a bottle around for those lazy days. Feels oily compared to the wax or paste. That feel goes away quickly though (whithin a hour or two if you wipe it down with a rag).

Mystery Oil: It is a liquid similar to the mineral oil. Not so crazy about the warning lable. Feels a little bit more oily than the mineral oil at first. Seems to react similar to the mineral oil. In my opinion I would rather use the mineral oil just because of convienience considering the warning about it being combustable.

The proof:

This is unoiled stone.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is the stone just after application
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is a picture of the sheen each gives off
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

A day after the first oiling
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I then oiled it twice more over the next 2 days and waited 4 days to see what we had. Here it is.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

The mystery oil evaporated the quickest, then the mineral oil, contiuing on to the clapham's, and finally the Bee's oil.

I could continue the process but I do believe that you will continue to see the same results. Over time I think you wouold spend less time applying with the wax products but I would keep the mineral oil around for quick touchups or lazy days.

This test also gives people a good idea of how soapstone will react when it is installed in their home. This process of oiling and or waxing lessens with time. Each variety of soapstone can react differently as well. This means some stone evaporates the oil or wax products off quicker and or slower. Some people leave it unoiled some oil it often. Some like it inbetween and only oil it sometimes. . . So it really is up to the owner to choose how the stone fits your lifestyle. I still have not figured out how describe to someone who does not know about soapstone in one or two paragraphs. I know it sounds cheesy but I feel it's an experience. If you don't touch it, feel it, live with it, you'll never really understand it.

NOTES:

soapstone oiling
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 12.25.2007 at 03:34 pm

RE: #@(*! Glass tile is making me crazy - mini subways, other id (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: budge1 on 07.20.2007 at 09:46 am in Bathrooms Forum

Bio, you say you couldn't get past the gorgeous onyx and mosaic at artistic tile but couldn't see anything period appropriate. If that is what grabs you, why not go for it. The glass tile isn't period appropriate either.

We had originally wanted to do the white subways with a border of onyx and I still love that look. I think the browns in your floor tile with the browns of the onyx would be sooooo stunning.

Jejvtr gave me some advice when I was madly trying to marry finishes, etc. She said (and I'm paraphrasing here) that in a small bath you don't want to try to do too much. Keep the lines simple and the finishes to a minimum.

To me the floor has a traditional solid look and the glass tile has a modern, light feel. I think a stone or ceramic tile would tie in better with the wood look floor than the glass (Just my opinion). But maybe not the look you're going for.

Have you seen this bathroom with subways and ming green mosaics?

Here is a link that might be useful: ming green

NOTES:

backsplash tile
clipped on: 12.24.2007 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2007 at 02:35 pm

RE: #@(*! Glass tile is making me crazy - mini subways, other id (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: biondanonima on 08.13.2007 at 08:29 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It's Aegean Mosaic in Mykonos by OriginalStyle. I found it at Old Country Tile in Westbury, NY. It's even more beautiful up close!!!

NOTES:

backsplash tile
clipped on: 12.24.2007 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 12.24.2007 at 02:13 pm

RE: Maintaining the White Marble Backsplash (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: pcjs on 12.24.2007 at 12:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I fell in love with this stuff, but we decided not to tile for now - we're tired DIY with too many projects we aren't working on. :)

They have a range of marble and I liked it because it had more of the brown tones vs. grey.

They have actual stores - sometimes the stores are good (i.e. you can get help) and sometimes not.

Here is a link that might be useful: the tile shop

NOTES:

affordable marble tile
clipped on: 12.24.2007 at 02:46 am    last updated on: 12.24.2007 at 02:46 am

RE: Blues (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: tonanny on 02.11.2007 at 07:27 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Benjamin Moore - Palladium Blue

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NOTES:

wall color
clipped on: 12.22.2007 at 03:41 am    last updated on: 12.22.2007 at 03:41 am

RE: Unconventional Wedding Registry (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vodnik (Guest) on 11.04.2007 at 06:59 am in Wedding Forum

I made a wedding registry site for myself and my sister's wedding but then opened it up as a free site for anyone to use. You can choose presents from anywhere (not tied to any store) and it also lets you ask for contribution presents, where several people can put money towards a bigger present (eg, the sofa). Site is http://yourweddingpresents.com.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wedding registry

NOTES:

wedding registry website
clipped on: 12.21.2007 at 03:17 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2007 at 03:18 pm

RE: fragrant tropical plants (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: blulagoon on 03.22.2006 at 08:15 pm in Tropicalesque Garden Forum

You could try tuberoses. I love their smell-totally reminds me of Hawaii,as well as the scent of plumerias. Unfortunately,I don't seem to have luck with them blooming for me. Once one bloomed,right before I had to bring them in for the winter,so of course the plant freaked out and I lost the buds. I've had a little more luck with the plumeria,though,although not by much. I've gotten my yellow ones to bloom,although they don't bloom till August or September,and then I have to bring them in in October.The scent is incredible. The red and pink have never bloomed. Georgeous foliage,though. Maybe you would have better luck with these plants,though.
You could try jasmine,gardenias,brugmansias(angels trumpets),datura,passionflowers,and like mentioned,nicotanias,gingers, and lilies. My favorite is the 'Stargazer' lily. I also have planted lilies;'Monte Negro',which is deep red,and 'Cote De Azur',which is hot pink,and they are both supposed to be fragrant. Gardening catalogs have a lot of fragrant lilies.
I've heard pineapple lillies(Eucomis) are fragrant and they look very exotic. I've also heard that you can grow ylang ylang and champaca trees in pots.

NOTES:

fragrant plants
clipped on: 12.17.2007 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2007 at 05:47 pm

RE: fragrant tropical plants (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vancouverislandgirl on 03.12.2006 at 07:18 pm in Tropicalesque Garden Forum

No, I am refering to the summer bulb-Oriental lilies. Not at all like a daylily. Check out Gardenweb's hortiplex under lilium 'casablanca' or www.brecks.com under summer blooming lilies page 10. They are hardy down to zone 3 and very easy to grow. Their only requirement is a sunny spot and good drainage as they can rot in the winter if it is boggy.

Although the bulbs are somewhat pricy they do multiply. I would recommend starting with a clump of 3 or more bulbs to make a nice show. After a year or two they get absolutely HUGE! You won't be dissappointed.

Cheers!

Here is a link that might be useful: Casablanca

NOTES:

fragrant plants
clipped on: 12.17.2007 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2007 at 05:46 pm

RE: fragrant tropical plants (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: bahia on 05.03.2006 at 10:51 pm in Tropicalesque Garden Forum

Brugmansia is certainly a good candidate, with 'Charles Grimaldi' my personal favorite. Nicotiana sylvestris is my favorite of all Nicotiana, both for the incredible fragrance and tropical foliage. Star Jasmine/Trachelospermum jasminoides and Jasminum polyanthemum are two very fragrant vines much used here in California for summer/winter bloom. Another couple of fragrant vines would include Mandevillea laxa. A potted Lemon tree is also heavenly for fragrance. Of the easier to grow Gingers, Hedychium flavum and H. gardnerianum are always reliable for fragrance and bloom here in northern California. Not really tropical, but bulbs like Amaryllis belladonna and Freesia are both very fragrant. We don't do as well with Tuberose here along the bay because it doesn't really ever get hot in summer here. Peppermint Geranium is a great tropical foliage plant that is great in pots or where it can be brushed against, as is the Breath of Heaven plant, Coleonemum pulchrum. ("Sunset Gold' is a particularly nice dwarfer growing cultivar with showy lime green/chartreuse foliage. I also highly recommend some of the Mint Bushes such as Prostranthera rotundifolia for those in Mediterannean climates where it grows so well, and is in full purple bloom right now.

NOTES:

fragrant plants
clipped on: 12.17.2007 at 05:45 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2007 at 05:45 pm

RE: Making outlets melt into backsplash any ideas? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: janwad on 12.13.2007 at 06:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

taymac.com has a line of outlet covers called Mosaic that are designed to be painted.

Columbia Gorge Stone does custom covers
http://www.stonewallplates.com/

Take a picture of your tile, print it on regular paper, put it in a clear plastic outlet cover that is made for wallpaper.

NOTES:

outlet covers
clipped on: 12.16.2007 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 12.16.2007 at 06:12 pm

RE: Where to get a better price on Rev-a-shelf, anyone used Ovis? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: debi_2006 on 12.14.2007 at 02:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

AHTurf is where I got mine...cheaper too. And if you see it somewhere else for less, they may match the price. They did with mine.

NOTES:

cabinet organization
clipped on: 12.14.2007 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2007 at 06:52 pm

RE: How to repair a 'falling' undermount sink? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: organic_donna on 12.14.2007 at 03:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try Chemical Concepts by Braxton Bragg. They make a peel and stick fastener for a sink that was installed without clips. I'm using some myself. Call them and ask for the peel and stick ones.
Donna

Here is a link that might be useful: Chemical Concepts

NOTES:

sink installation
clipped on: 12.14.2007 at 05:48 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2007 at 05:48 pm

RE: dimmer switches 101 (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jon1270 on 12.13.2007 at 06:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Low-voltage dimmers are more expensive, and only needed for low-voltage fixtures, i.e. some specialty track lighting, most xenon undercabinet lighting, etc. You may very well not need any low-voltage dimmers.

For the most part you'll probably need what they call "incandescent" dimmers. You can't use these (or any other dimmer) with most fluorescent lights, so you'll have to rethink your plan if you've been switching over to those energy-saving CFLs.

Look at all of your fixtures and note the maximum wattage each can take. If a fixture is rated to accept three 100 watt bulbs then count it as 300 watts, even if you only use 60w bulbs in it. Add up all the wattage (or potential wattage) that is controlled by each switch, and this will give you an idea of the appropriate wattage ratings.

Dimmers generate some heat during operation, which they must dissipate to avoid overheating. To this end, they are made with a large metal plate that sits behind your decorative switch plate and acts as a heat sink. These heat sinks are large enough that they get in each others' way when multiple dimmers are mounted together in those two- and three-gang boxes. This problem is solved by snapping off parts of the heat sink (they are scored for this) so that two or more dimmers can be mounted close together. Snapping off parts of the heat sinks means they can't dissipate heat as efficiently, so these dimmers are "derated" and can't handle as much wattage as they could if they'd been left unmolested and mounted in a single-gang box. Two 600 watt dimmers mounted together might only be able to handle 500 watts each. Three 600 watt dimmers mounted together might only be able to handle 400 watts each. Take this derating into account when choosing dimmers for those ganged installations.

Also, note any areas where you have three-way or four-way switches that allow you to control the same lights from more than one place. Many dimmers can be installed in combination with a standard three-way switch so that the lights can be turned on and off from either switch location but only dimmed from one. If you want to be able to control the dimming from both sides of a three-way switch arrangement, that will substantially narrow your choice of dimmers.

NOTES:

light switches
clipped on: 12.14.2007 at 02:55 am    last updated on: 12.14.2007 at 02:55 am

RE: dimmer switches 101 (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: antiquesilver on 12.14.2007 at 02:24 am in Kitchens Forum

Meg,
Be sure to check out the Lutron dimmers. I've used them in restorations for the past 20 years & have found them to be quiet & very reliable.

If you have a light that switches on from 2 or more locations, normally you only put a dimmer on the location where the power source begins; you have regular 3 way switches on the other location(s). This has nothing to do with how many dimmers you can put in a box. You can put 2 dimmers (going to different fixtures) in the same box, regardless of whether they are single pole or 3 way. At least that's the way I remember it on incandescant lights - I know nothing about low voltage.

FYI - Electrical plate covers/switches/receptacles/dimmers, etc that have one large opening (as opposed to the ordinary small openings) are a style/shape referred to as "Decorator". Levitron & Lutron are brands & their particular model series are Decora, SkyLark, etc. Hope this brings some clarity.

NOTES:

light switches
clipped on: 12.14.2007 at 02:54 am    last updated on: 12.14.2007 at 02:54 am

RE: Safest weed killer for lawns (clover and other weeds) (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: flowersandthings on 06.28.2004 at 10:50 pm in Weeds Forum

I wouldn't call most pesticides or herbicides safe..... they also sprayed mosquito killer.... ddt..... in the 60s and kids would run behind playing in the smoke..... untill they realized how dangerous it was.... duh..... I'm not about to risk my health or anyone elses for clover...... so I cn find out 20 years from now the damaging effects it has..... the pesticides not the clover that is....... ;) :) You can't control your neighbor but you can decide for yourself and be thoughtful about it...... AMericans use pesticides WAAAAAAAYYYYYY too much.... there's no question about it..... and I don't mind saying so..... offending a few is not as bad as saying nothing when one could be more informed...... it's information I'm trying to share...... for Viche's benefit and everyone elses...... There are NO safe chemical (pyrethrum etc. are different) pesticides or herbicides she can expose her children to..... That's all..... read these articles about the dangers of pesticides....... This information is not provided my some "crazy" enviromentalist group as many think all enviromentalists are but by a parenting online magazine and the cdc.......

http://www.parentsnest.com/home.php?page=index-further.html&board_id=308&row_offset=0&id=236180

http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/dls/factsheets/pesticides.htm

NOTES:

weed killers
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2007 at 02:29 pm

RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: gardenowl on 11.09.2007 at 08:44 am in Kitchens Forum

There is a company that offers a similar product to Holland Bowl Mill in auction format for a lot less.

I agree, you don't have to order massive quantities of this product to coat your counter tops. A little goes a long way!

Here is the link to their current auction format listing. Message this lady if you want Mineral oil, because she has that at really good pricing too.

Her shipping charges are great and she usually ships out immediately after payment is received. 100% feedback last I checked!

Here is a link that might be useful: 10oz Beeswax Mineral Oil Butcher Block Polish Food Safe

NOTES:

soapstone oiling
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 01:22 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2007 at 01:23 pm

RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: tonda1 on 11.03.2007 at 09:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oh, yes, you waited too long. It is WOWO - wipe on, wipe off. I usually rub it on the entire run of countertop and then go back to the beginning and start wiping off/buffing as soon as I am done. And after a year and a half of straight mineral oil, I made the switch to beeswax/mineral oil blend (homemade!) and I LOVE IT! It lasts SO much longer. I bought my beeswax from TAHUYA RIVER APIARIES and then melted it and mixed 50/50 with mineral oil.

Here is a link that might be useful: TAHUYA RIVER APIARIES

NOTES:

soapstone oiling
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2007 at 01:21 pm

RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: florida_mimi on 11.03.2007 at 10:14 am in Kitchens Forum

My husband doesn't pay attention enough to the real questions :)
I'm doing a ditto on what Dixielogs said. Holland Bowl Mill is where we buy our stuff. They carry a huge 28 oz tub.
Another option is what some of the other stoners were doing in another thread. They were mixing 50% mineral oil with 50% bee's wax. I havent tried this yet but it may be a fun and cheaper alternative. You may be able to find the bee's wax in bulk on eBay and then buy the Mineral oil in bulk from STE Oil Company Inc. We order the Crystal Plus Oil 70FG. It's the food grade mineral oil in a thinner viscosity so it's easier to apply. I know they sell it by the gallon and so on. We buy it by the drum. Hope this helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: STE Mineral Oil

NOTES:

soapstone oiling
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2007 at 01:08 pm

RE: Beeswax Oil at reasonable price anywhere? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dixielogs on 11.02.2007 at 05:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

here is where we get ours. I usually give each of out customers a small container to start with, but I have the medium size one in my kitchen. will last you a very long time.

Here is a link that might be useful: Holland Bowl Mill

NOTES:

soapstone oiling
clipped on: 12.10.2007 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2007 at 01:07 pm

Fast growing 30 ft evergreen for San Francisco Bay Area

posted by: pinar on 12.09.2007 at 06:48 pm in Trees Forum

Hi,
We have a neighbor problem, as well. The neighbors diagonal back somehow got this permit for an extension and built way into their backyard, up to the left side neighbor's fence.

We are on a hill and have some views, especially the row of houses behind ours. Now these guys blocked their neighbor's views, our sun and are looking right into our backyard.

The left side neighbors already have a tree on the far left side of their yard and agreed to plant one on our side, too to save our privacy. Since they are so nice about it, I want to make sure they get an easy tree without any problems.

I would like a fast growing evergreen that would grow up to about 30-35 ft. We are in coastal Northern California and I guess our zone is 10. Any suggestions?

Thank so much!

Pinar

NOTES:

tree blcok follow up question
clipped on: 12.09.2007 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2007 at 06:42 pm

RE: Green Giant Thuja- Is it True how fast it grows??? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: bboy on 11.13.2006 at 03:38 am in Trees Forum

A common garden plant is Thymus serpyllum, doubtless there was a screwup and part of that plant's name got onto the arborvitae tags because both belong to genera starting with T.

T. x plicata is also a mistake for T. plicata. T. plicata is used for 'Green Giant' but it is a hybrid and not a pure T. plicata. Other hybrids are often sold as forms of pure species instead of as hybrids.

T. plicata x T. standishii 'Green Giant' is now commonly available here. Anyone thinking there is a benefit to planting this hybrid (outside of conifer collections) over a pure T. plicata in this, the native region of T. plicata need only go to a nursery where they have both displayed side-by-side and see which is the more attractive and pleasantly aromatic of the two.

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tree block
clipped on: 12.09.2007 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2007 at 06:31 pm

RE: Green Giant Thuja- Is it True how fast it grows??? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pineresin on 10.12.2006 at 05:53 am in Trees Forum

In western WA, you'd do better to plant local native Thuja plicata, it is even faster than 'Green Giant' (the only reason for growing 'Green Giant' is its better tolerance of eastern US climates)

Resin

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blocking trees
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RE: We are done!! (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: pinar on 12.08.2007 at 03:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Wow, that is a well designed kitchen. Thanks for bringing it up again. I hadn't seen it. It's so cool you have basketweave on the backsplash when what you see out the window is a trellis with the same pattern. Also, the lights work great in your kitchen, I wouldn't change them.

May I ask what the hardware is on your island? The bin pulls. Thanks so much!

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follow up question
clipped on: 12.09.2007 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 12.09.2007 at 02:26 pm

RE: Quick (And Possibly Obvious :) ) Question on Sink Tilt-Outs (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: woleile on 12.08.2007 at 05:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

FWIW mine has a pull.

BTW take a look at what they're going to put inside it. Make sure they use the widest and deepest tray that will fit inside. I have a 36" sink base, and it has two dinky little 11" trays that just barely hold a spatula and a sponge. A 22" or even 25" tray would have been so much more useful, and they are available. Also mine is 3" deep, but a 4" one would fit and again would hold much more.

LauraG

Here is a link that might be useful: sink tilt out options

NOTES:

Sink tilt out
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RE: Soapstone - DIY fabrication question (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: jraz_wa on 12.09.2007 at 01:04 am in Kitchens Forum

My opinions on your last set of questions -

- Unless you drop it, you probably aren't going to put any more stress on it carrying it than it will receive in shipment and transport to your house. Always carry it sideways - especially that long slab. The main issue is - WOW IT IS HEAVY! And getting enough people to carry it securely while negotiating steps will be challenging. Also, the edges can be sharp. I would consider wrapping it in a moving blanket and taping it up tight so you can get a more comfortable hold on it. My guess is you'll need at least four very strong people to move that big slab. Maybe even six. A dolly could work, if you can get through doors. We didn't have very far to go - I think we used a dolly to get the slabs off the truck and into the garage.

- Unless you have a fault line of some sort, I don't think you need to worry too much about breakage when you are cutting as long as you have it supported properly. We used 2x4's as supports underneath the soapstone - they ran the entire length of the cut, on both sides, and the piece that you are cutting away needs to be supported as well so it doesn't fall away at the end of the cut - it will take a chunk of the side you are keeping with it as it does. Really examine how you have it supported - lots and lots of 2x4's. We moved our sink piece on a sheet of plywood, but it wasn't 84" long - it was only 4' long.

- Sanding along the edge is pretty easy. I just did it freehand by sight. Very light hand. I just wanted the slightest of a bevel - really just enough to take the sharpness away (those edges are sharp when cut!). I just used a slow back and forth motion holding the palm sander at an angle. I only did that when I was all done with the 600 grit finishing of the top and edges. It was the last step.

Happy to help!

NOTES:

Soapstone DIY
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RE: Need ideas for pullout shelves I'm having made. Pics please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 12.08.2007 at 02:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Check out this thread:

Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!!!!

I don't know what your KD-turned-carpenter is planning on doing or how good he is, but if you search other threads people are happy w/IKEA hardware and design. I would ask to see some of his other work b/f allowing him to do this...especially since the fact that he's your carpenter came as a surprise to you.

I personally think drawers are better than pullout shelves (as do many others on the Forum) but if you cannot have drawers, than pullout cabinets, IMHO, are still better than pullout shelves. Checkout the thread above for ideas.

If you research your options both on the Forum & at the Rev-A-Shelf and Hfele sites, you'll find hardware for all sizes of cabinets and a lot of ideas. [There are many other sites that sell Rev-A-Shelf & Hfele: www.ovisonline.com, www.leevalley.com, www.kitchensource.com, www.cabinetparts.com, custominserts-store.stores.yahoo.net, the list goes on!]

HTH!

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kitchen organization
clipped on: 12.09.2007 at 04:50 am    last updated on: 12.09.2007 at 04:50 am

Here are some links to check out (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: TinasOldHouse on 10.26.2005 at 12:30 pm in Old House Forum

I googled on "ranch houses preservation" and the links below were some of the results I got. You'll have to copy and paste these into your browser. I'm sure you'll find many more.

An article in the L.A. Times about the growing preservation movement for the ranch home:
http://www.latimes.com/features/home/la-hm-ranch20oct20,0,4082801.story?coll=la-home-home

Here's a specific website devoted to preservation:
http://www.recentpast.org/types/resident/

A magazine my 50's furniture guy gave me:
http://www.atomic-ranch.com/index.html

And a National Park Service article that's interesting:
http://www.cr.nps.gov/nr/publications/bulletins/suburbs/Bricker.pdf

Tina

NOTES:

50's home links
clipped on: 12.07.2007 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2007 at 09:19 pm

RE: Websites for restoring 1950s Homes? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kennebunker on 10.26.2005 at 01:55 pm in Old House Forum

Some miniaturists were working on 1950's houses and complained they couldn't find pictures of interiors to help guide them in reproducing the era.
I happened to have old magazines and I scanned images and put them into a Webshots album. If you'd like to take a look at typical 50's interiors check out any photos labeled with 1940's or 50's dates.

Here is a link that might be useful: album: 20th c. homes

NOTES:

Old home pictures
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RE: Noooooooo! My beautiful spice racks don't work!!! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lascatx on 12.07.2007 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I wonder if my space jars would work -- they are shorter and maybe a little wider. Looks like yours are toppling because they are so much taller than the supports. I would either try a different spice container or return the racks and try something else. I think anything trying to modify the racks might be more trouble than it's worth and not very pleasing for a new kitchen.

Specialtybottle.com has a lot of small jars and tins you might want to look at, and they havethe best prices I've found on such things. Some folks have used the tins with magnets onthe bottom on fridge sides or putting a magnetic sheet on the inside of your cabinet door. Besides, they look so cool when they all match. ; )

NOTES:

kitchen organization
clipped on: 12.07.2007 at 06:36 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2007 at 06:36 pm

RE: can I use powder and no rinse agent in Bosch dishwasher? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plllog on 12.01.2007 at 03:00 am in Appliances Forum

I use Seventh Generation powder, which is simlar to TJ's, and no rinse agent, though my DW is American and over 10 years old. Jansesk's experience and other things I've found out recently, have convinced me to choose the KitchenAid for my new kitchen for exactly that reason. I don't like all those chemicals, and don't want to pay more for a machine that will force me to use them.

If you look at the detergent test thread you'll see that the Seventh Generation didn't fare well in the Miele. It made grit that stuck on the dishes, whereas mine come out sparkly and bright, and I don't get etching, spots, or anything. And it doesn't suit me to have a machine that will heat the water to scary temps, but doesn't use heat to dry the dishes. My house water temp is adequate for cleaning (no small children to protect by keeping the water heater set to tepid), and the supposed energy savings from condensation drying isn't worth the necessity of putting in all those chemicals.

Check out the Kitchen Aid U series. It's supposed to be very quiet. (Not an issue for me as I leave the room.)

NOTES:

Dishwashers and detergents
clipped on: 12.06.2007 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2007 at 11:29 pm

RE: can I use powder and no rinse agent in Bosch dishwasher? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jamesk on 12.01.2007 at 01:30 am in Appliances Forum

You probably won't get good drying results without a rinse agent. To some extent it depends on your water -- but these machines are (as are most newer dishwashers) designed to be operated with rinse agent. They simply won't deliver good drying results without the rinse agent.

I'm not convinced that phosphates were the source of our tarnishing problem. Were you formerly using a DW detergent containing chlorine? You might get better results if you switch to an enzyme-based detergent.

I wash silver in my Miele DW on a daily basis. I use Electrosol Tabs (an enzyme-based detergent) with Jet Dry rinse agent. I don't have any problem with tarnishing,and get excellent results. But then, I live in Seattle where the water is also very good.

NOTES:

Dishwashers and detergents
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RE: Under Cabinet Lights - Location (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: alku05 on 11.27.2007 at 04:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yup, they should be in the front! You'll only be able to see the wire if you look under the cabinet. Here's a picture of under my cabinet and then a front view of the same one:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

No wire shows unless you're looking for it.

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Plug mold
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RE: Pull out trash cabinet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: momj47 on 11.27.2007 at 02:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is probably not an error. Usually the trash pull-out is from another company - there are several that make these systems. Rev-A-Shelf is probably the most common, but there are others that are good, too. They are all good and work well. Yours should be fine.

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Trash can
clipped on: 11.27.2007 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2007 at 02:48 pm

RE: dark wood cabs, drawer front dilemma, down to the wire (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: chiefneil on 11.12.2007 at 12:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's a couple photos of my kitchen with dark cabs. The wood is alder.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Here's a closeup of how the slab drawers look against the raised-panel doors. I'm still dithering about pulls for the wide drawers, so they look kinda plain in this photo. In the photo above you can see some of the drawers with pulls in the lower left corner.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

NOTES:

Backsplash
clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 11:25 pm

Our Thanksgiving week total kitchen remodel

posted by: weedyacres on 11.20.2007 at 09:34 am in Kitchens Forum

DH and I took the week off so that we can remodel our kitchen. Our goal is to finish in one week (minus the countertops, since they've got some lead time, and the backsplash, since that comes afterward). Wish us luck!

Here's where we're starting:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

And here's the results of day 1: complete removal of everything, down to the gray berber carpet. We found buyers for the cabinets and appliances, and gave away the carpet on freecycle. We took a sawzall to the backsplash drywall and shifted the sink plumbing. Also screwed the floor squeaks to prep for tile.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
We did get a jump start a couple weekends ago, demo-ing the tiny built-in pantry, and adding a cutout to push the fridge back into (the wall backs onto the stairwell, so we'll get a counter-depth fridge without a counter-depth price!)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 10:37 pm

RE: Show me your Arts and Crafts / Bungalow / Craftsman backsplas (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: momj47 on 11.26.2007 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

This site has some wonderful tiles, as well as other stuff. You might get some good ideas here.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Craftsman Home Connection

NOTES:

Backsplash tile
clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 09:18 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 09:18 pm

RE: Show me your Arts and Crafts / Bungalow / Craftsman backsplas (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: donna214 on 11.26.2007 at 08:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

You should take a look at Meredith Art Tile. It is Arts and Crafts inspired and they have some beautiful hand painted decorative tile.

Here is a link that might be useful: Meredith Tile

NOTES:

Backsplash tile
clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 09:18 pm

RE: Cool cabinet 'insides' ideas... (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: acoreana on 09.20.2007 at 06:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a command hook inside the cab door next to the oven with my pot holders hanging on it, and a couple more inside the pantry doors for the measuring spoons/cups...no? not cool enough??? LOL!

So many seriously cool ideas to make a kitchen so much more functional & organized, this is a great thread.

I'm loving the undersink drawer idea....and that tray divider talley...sue posted will soon be making an appearance @ my house, yay! Needed something sturdy, and it seems perfect.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 09:03 pm

RE: Cool cabinet 'insides' ideas... (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: tonda1 on 09.20.2007 at 06:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

my personal favs are a dedicated coffee/tea drawer, a dedicated bread drawer, and a dedicated self-serve "snack" drawer for the kids. As you can see, I am all about drawers - deep drawers, wide drawers!!! I let my cabinet guy talk me into one base cab with roll-outs (2) behind doors, and I wish every day that those were drawers, too. If I had to have cabs with rollouts, I wish I had done this:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
and another idea I always liked (from a fellow GWer but I can't recall who, so maybe they will speak up as well). Excellent use of above fridge space:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 08:55 pm

RE: Cool cabinet 'insides' ideas... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: talley_sue_nyc on 09.19.2007 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't like the exposed wicker baskets. They just look like they'll get gunky, and be hard to clean.

I used tray dividers in the deep cabinet over the fridge--I bought two sets and spaced them more closely than most people seem to. Nothing leans.

I have a two-can trash pullout under the sink (on the far side from the dishwasher)

And I put a chrome shelf and basket combo under the sink.

I wish I'd done a pantry pullout like beatrix's.

Beyond that I didn't do much, bcs the organzing gadget itself takes up some room, and I don't have much to spare.

I have few drawers, so my spices sit on an upper shelf in this perfectly sized plastic box (though I threw the base away, and I just set it on the shelf. That way I can just take it off the shelf completely, which is easier. I write the spice names on the side of the lids, so I can see them.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 11.26.2007 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2007 at 08:52 pm