View of the other side of the room where the dining room is:

Here's a layout of the space:

As for the materials used:
Wall Paint: BM Navajo White
Marvin Windows
Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone Laminate
Kohler smart divide cast iron sink (love it!)
Thermocast prep sink
Faucets from Lowes and Home Depot
Stove: 1954 O'Keefe & Merritt model 405
Schoolhouse Electric Lighting
Cabinets: 6 Square
Cherry Butcher Block Countertop on the island (Lumber Liquidators)
Oak Hardwood Floors
**White subway backsplash tiles yet to be installed
**Chrome nickel pulls yet to be installed on cabinetry

Now for where I could use some help. My former kitchen had so much color that I'm afraid I played it a little too safe/conservative with going for a white kitchen. I'm disappointed that the finishes we chose don't coordinate. The laminate is matte and looks dull to me and I swear it has a bluish/grey undertone. I'm afraid the brown walnut stain we used on the windows clashes with the counters AND the brown finish on the pendant lights. Our energy and budget is about maxed out, so what's done is done (for now). But I would appreciate any thoughts on how to decorate / tie everything together anyway. Btw, I had a dream one night in which I posted this, and y'all said "It looks nice, but it looks soooooo 2008." :)

The other thing I should mention is that pantry cabinets haven't been completed yet. (Custom built by DH). They will go on the wall where the temporary shelving is located (with the canned goods in the picture). They'll need to be no deeper than 15". The trash and recycle are also located over there, and we purchased a 12" deep wall base for the end of the run. If you have any feedback about how to make it look good I'd love to hear it.

I really have given thanks over and over for the feedback on this forum. I could not have done it without you!

The tile is actually a lighter yellow than it appears in the picture. I held a color chip up to the tile and BM Hawthorne Yellow is a pretty close match. The squares are black. Since yellow paint can be so tricky, I'm a little more inclined to a grey or a yellowish beige on the walls. If you have any particular colors in mind, please share!

I'm considering one of these shower curtains:

http://www.amazon.com/Park-B-Smith-Shower-Curtain/dp/B003YFHHC2/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=INFYNU8JAS4F1&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

or

http://www.amazon.com/Xhilaration-Damask-Shower-Curtain-Black/dp/B003AS23QS/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2U1EI7CMX3UMC&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

Do you think the pattern would overwhelm the room with its size? Is it too dark for such a small room? I might consider this one, too: http://www.amazon.com/InterDesign-Fabric-Shower-Curtain-Leaves/dp/B002H9X6QW/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I14ZHC720SFNN4&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

In the past I've gravitated toward lots of color; now I'm finding myself moving toward more calm tones/patterns. Any and all suggestions are appreciated!

See the green towel and sweatshirt laying on the couch? They are my "inspiration". (Sorry for not cleaning up before I invited you over :). You can even see the paint chips taped to the wall next to the icon. I've got it narrowed down to BM Fernwood Green 2145-40 or Georgian Green HC 115, but I could be persuaded otherwise. The walls wrap around and intersect with a hallway that's painted Monroe Bisque (BM HC 26) and then lead to the kitchen, with Navajo White walls and White Dove cabinetry.

Our budget has been drained by building the new kitchen and bath addition and I didn't expect to be painting the living room anyway. But when we drywalled to tie everything in we needed to touch up the walls and discovered we are out of the original yellow! So this is my one and only chance to justify to DH the need to repaint!

Here's the view down the short (Monroe Bisque) hallway leading to the dining room/kitchen:

I couldn't have gotten this far without the invaluable advice from the folks over in the kitchen forum. Now I'm at your mercy! Thank you!
Peace_Rose

I'm planning on organizing such files in a base cabinet that's 12" deep and 21" wide. The phone will sit on the countertop, and a calendar and bulletin board are nearby.

We deliberately chose not to build a desk because we didn't want it to overtake the space. But I know that our new kitchen/DR will be "command central" and we need a place to keep the family organized. I'm just curious to know how the rest of you organize office type stuff in the kitchen -- without letting it turn into an office! Any ideas or pictures you have would be awesome.

1. Those 30" base cabinets on either side of the stove. Can anyone make a good argument for roll out trays? As it turns out, drawers are not all that much more expensive. But should I get base cabs with 2 or 3 drawers? Would it look off-balance if I did one of each? (I'm planning on storing pots/pans/tupperware/serving bowls/casserole dishes/mixing bowls and hot pads near the stove, but not food). I'm wondering if the 2 drawer cabs are too deep and if we'll wind up with wasted space? My hunch is to get one of each; can anyone confirm my hunch or challenge me on that?

2. Question about FORM: The ceiling is 8' high behind the stove but vaults to about 13' high in the middle of the room. Here's a pic of the stove wall:

Partial view of the Sink Wall:

And the Pantry Wall:

I'm trying to figure out how to gracefully place the molding at the top of the cabinets because there will be a gradually increasing space between the top of the molding and the ceiling. Any thoughts?

3. Question about FORM: I intended to place a glass fronted cabinet above the DW, but the cabinet company doesn't offer them in 24" wide. But they do offer them in 18" which would work on both sides of the stove. Any opinions on which place would look better for glass fronted cabs? (I think my husband could ultimately modify a 24" cab but he would really grumble about it). But if you think it would look better above the DW where my dishes will be, please say so!

It's exciting to be this close. We broke ground last August, so working on the finishing touches is both exhilarating and nerve-wracking!

Thanks GW friends!

Everything else is going to be a tint. That is, it'll be red (pink), yellow, blue, green, orange (pink), purple, brown or black (gray). Yep. Your Crayola box of eight colors.

I think White Dove is a blue gray. It's very pretty.

Navajo white is a very brown white, which isn't yellow or pink (which are components of brown), but still warm. That's why people love Navajo.

If you can't find the white you want, you can create it by choosing a color you want for the undertone and adding a drop at a time to white base until you get the tone you want. They can duplicate that with the computer if you want it machine mixed.

Should I use a matching tile (non-beveled rittenhouse artic white matches cabs) or use the starker white beveled adex tiles?

Help!

Our sample door front comes tomorrow. Has anyone bought the Lexington cabinets. Anyone bought from Neighborhoods? I found them on ebay.

I got a sample of BM "Lemon Drop" but it was, go figure, a little too lemony. I'm thinking something a little warmer / sunnier.

Cabinets are white (very close to BM White Dove). White subway tile backsplash. Oiled soapstone Laminate, butcher block island, and medium oak floors.

I know it's hard to gauge paint color on a computer monitor, but if you've had luck with a certain color I'd love to see it. My preference would be BM or Behr.

Thanks so much!
Peace_rose

Thanks in advance for your help!

~Des

The focal point of the kitchen is the vintage stove, with a shiny chrome top, like this:

http://www.antiqueappliancecompany.com/1954OKeefeMerrittmodel405.html

It�s not a "vintage" kitchen though. We�re going for that classic look you�ve seen a zillion times (white cabs, dark grey oiled soapstone laminate, white subway tile backsplash, schoolhouse lighting).

We�ll be using this chandelier over the dining room table for sure. In the picture it looks lighter than it really is. Whatever it is has a really cool patina that�s built up over the years:

I�m thinking of re-using our current faucet (polished nickel with porcelain):

Here�s the layout of our project:

So that leaves the hardware/finishes the following up in the air:

- Pendant and Sconce Lighting (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze).
- Cabinet drawer pulls and knobs (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze or satin nickel)
- Doorknobs (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze or satin nickel KNOBS not levers)

Thus back to the original question: can I pull this all together without it being too hodge podge? Is it best to have a variety of finishes?

As always, thank you all so much!!

Please help!

After:

Before Kitchen

This kitchen didn't start out as a budget remodel, but since we were/are doing a whole house remodel, by the end of the kitchen we had spent much more than planned and so the Kitchen budget was cut to 20K.

Some of the details...

Range, Dishwasher & Micro: GE Cafe
Fridge: Counter Depth Bosch
Floor: Ceramic Tile 13"x13" with 4" black marble insets.
Ceiling Lights: Restoration Hardware
Cabinets: Custom by local cabinet maker
Cabinet Paint: Benjamin Moore Aura Paint in White Dove (DIY)
Cabinet Hardware: Restoration Hardware
Sink: Elkay stainless zero radius sink from Home Depot (it can under-mount or top-mount)... we had a sad story involving a beautiful stainless farm sink received with shipping damage that lead to this sink. In the end I'm totally happy with this sink, so it all worked out :)
Counters - Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone Laminate in 3cm thickness to simulate soapstone. I couldn't decide between Soapstone or Marble, so we decided to go laminate for the time being... I'm actually so happy with it, I think it will stay for quite a while.
Breakfast Bar: Walnut top done by cabinet maker

First off let me thank everyone for so much support in the designing of the kitchen. I wouldn't not have been able to do this with out such a great support group. People are so helpful and kind with their suggestions. I so appreciative for the amount of time people have put into answering questions!... I am truly grateful.

I included one "before" and several after. The entire first floor of the house needs updating and we started with the kitchen. The flooring will be natural red oak through out the first floor. In case you see some things..that don't...

What's left. Enough! Running out of money! Backsplash, the valence over the sink, the molding around the buffet and a piece of molding above refrig, pendants, chandelier and a round table. Oh and new stainless dishwasher, and new hot water dispenser. Some things of course will be finished this week..like cabinet stuff. But I couldn't wait another second to post.

The backsplash will be creamy white subway tile and above the stove a rectangle framed focal point of marble tile..creamy colors.

Details.
Yourktowne Cabinets - Maple with Linen finish
Black Pearl Granite
Satin Nickel knobs
Glass Knobs for Desk
Summerset Natural Red Oak Floors
GE Profile, Microwave, cook top and double oven (all from before in orginal kitchen)
Ge Profile hood
Electrolux Refrigerator
Kitchen Aid dishwasher..to be replaced at some point..stainless
Danze Faucet, satin nickel
Hot water dispenser (it's old and ugly..will replace that too)

Here is the before:

bahref="http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/repaintingagain/?action=view�t=IMG_2082.jpg" target="_blank">

And After: (I hope it looks good to people other then me!)

Buffet..there used to be a closet here

Desk knobs;

So... I'm debating cabinets. DH was going to build them. I adore the red birch with incredible luster like pharaoh has. (has some color variation too). But is it too much? Would I be better off going for "quieter" cabinets as a backdrop for the countertop, backsplash, and bakers table? I want a light/medium toned wood in a wide rail/stile shaker style. Very much like the IKEA Adel door in the beech color. If we don't build; I"m leaning toward those because they are functional, the style I want, and the color I want. Plus... they would cost about the same as it would for us to build. There are many other brands out there that also fit the bill style/color wise; but I'm sure they'd cost 2x-3x as much.

My heart belongs to gorgeous stones. I want nice cabinets, good cabinets, cabinets that'll last. But for me, when I look at a kitchen, I typically go to the counters and backsplash (pharaoh's kitchen is an exception since I'm in love with his cabinets). But I wonder if too much bling is just too much... if you know what i mean. Thoughts?

I know I can get prices from the lumberyard, but off the top of your head, do you know what the least expensive siding is (not vinyl or aluminum, though)? We used pine clapboards (painted) on a previous old-house reno -to match existing- and that was fairly cheap if I recall.... but I have no idea how it compares to the other options. Anyone priced these out lately? I am in New England...

Thanks!

We've been planning a U shape kitchen with an island. The dimensions are 14'4" x 23'. Today I marked everything out with tape on the sub floor, and now I have several big concerns. Just as someone here on GW forewarned, the aisles are quite narrow - 2 aisles are just barely 39" (allowing generous room for the fridge to jut out). I'm afraid that the island might be cumbersome. Also, the main prep area (next to prep sink) would face away from the table conversation and away from the sight line of the main living area. I would always be looking to the left or over my shoulder. Considering the orientation of the rest of the house, that "feels" really, really uncomfortable to me. Here's the layout:

Perhaps someone has a better suggestion for where to do prep? (The ideal place would be on the opposite side of the island where the prep sink is now).

Let me be the first to point out that the layout below (G Shape) does not look as good on paper. But in real life it just feels better as I walk around the actual space. I know most of you are biased toward a prep sink, but in the layout below I would use the bar that juts out for prep: it's 6 feet from the fridge and 4 feet from the sink. The benefits of the G shape include:

- bar seating
- 1 less window = $400 savings
- Prep area that faces the action and is in the sight line of the rest of the house.

Here it is:

Drawbacks of the G include:
- There's only room for a 2' bar counter (12" leg room, 12" cabinets). I'm ok with 12" deep cabinets, and would face them toward the dining room anyway. But we really can't move the door jam any further than 11' from the stove wall. (Door is currently 10' 6" from south wall). I tried laying it out with a 3' bar, but it makes it really tight near the door.
- I've had my heart set on a pot rack which won't work in the G shape

A few other notes:
- I'm learning that there's no such thing as a perfect kitchen, but if you see any major red flags in terms of traffic jams, etc, I'm all ears!
- DH wants the DW right next to the sink (a plumbing issue)
- The stove, sink and fridge are pretty much fixed where they're at; fridge and sink could move within 3 feet either direction.
- Please excuse the rudimentary upper/lower cabinets. If I had this to do over I would have invested in some kitchen design software rather than relying on IKEA...(we're not using IKEA cabs, just the software).

Thanks so much everybody!

I've lived in my kitchen for a year and two months and still love it every day! In large part, I owe it all to Gardenweb - the end result is nothing like the original, pre-discovering GW, plan!

Good luck planning your own kitchen - I wish you zero regrets a year later!

BTW, if you do casement windows, remember to leave enough room for the crank or you might end up scratching your countertop.

Enjoy!
Ivette

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivette's Kitchen

Please share your pictures, please????

Here's what's non-negotiable:
- Sink at/near the location in the layout below
- Windows above sink (East wall). The ones in the diagram are 28"x48"
- A window on (West) wall opposite the sink (next to pantry in the layout below). This window could be located below, at, or above counter height, and needs to be within 6 feet from the exterior (ie, it can't move much more to the left of where it is now).

DH really, really, really wants a window on the South (stove) wall, but I'm not sure how to fit it in. I'd be ok with putting the fridge where the pantry is if it meant opening up room for windows on the south wall.

Dimensions of the room are 14'6" x 23'

Thank you so much in advance!
Peace_Rose

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard paint...fun! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!

And if you have your new kitchen done, how is that con working out? Regrets or not as bad as you expected?

It appears I have 3 sets of cons to pick between:

1) lack of adequate dish storage near DW (and period) and a crossing of zones (between clean up and cooking)

2) fridge far from work zone (8' from prep sink, 13' from stove, 17' from clean up sink) and smaller pantry space (28" by up to 30" deep verses a 6' run)

3) a functional choice that both hubby and I very, very, very strongly dislike asthetically and crams the fridge, prep sink, microwave, and range into a very tiny area.

I am having the hardest time ever. None of these options seem feasible, but I HAVE to pick one.

I am hoping by hearing your guys' stories about picking cons and how they turned out, it will lead to some spec of insight so that I can better choose.

The main reason is because I'm feeling cramped by our 30" stove, but we don't have the budget for a 36" stove. There are several vintage stoves like this one on craigslist in my area for $100-$400. I know they would probably need some restoring, but it would still be cheaper than a dual fuel range. Again, it's the size that's attractive to me so there would be lots of room on top for my pots and pans.

One practical question I have is whether the oven is wide enough for a turkey or several cookie sheets at once? Does anyone know the answer to this question?

I'm not deliberately pursuing a vintage kitchen look. But my home was built in 1945, so it might be a neat way to incorporate the old and new. We'll be installing white shaker style cabinets.
Thanks!
Peace

There are 2 things I’m focusing on now: 1) Windows and 2) How to incorporate small details into the plan so we don’t end up with a cookie cutter kitchen. So here we go...

1)
a. Since everything’s a blank slate, we can put the windows wherever we want. The window above the sink faces East. I put a 24"x36" tall shelf on the north wall that is flush with the wall, for cookbooks and display up top. This enables us to have a wider window. But the cabinet guy I talked to recommended a corner wall cabinet, saying that I would regret not having the extra storage space up there. (With his plan the window would need to be narrower. But to me, upper corner storage is almost useless anyway). But there IS room for a corner cabinet AND a tall narrow cabinet to the right of that, too. With all this in mind, how big should the window above the sink be? (In the current scheme there’s two 27"x42" mulled windows).

b. Is it ok that the sink is not centered under the window?

c. We’ll be using double hung windows with a grid pattern (another shortcoming the software doesn’t show).
d. The Dining Room: Faces South, with awesome Colorado sunshine, but the view is nothing great. The smaller window on the West mimics one on the front of the house. I also have a corner hutch, pictured below (current dining room), that I would like to paint white and "build in" to the new addition. Does it make sense to accommodate a piece of furniture into a new addition?

2) Now for a little about style. Our house is a 1945 Cottage. So it really does make sense to do white shaker cabinets – we’ve seen the look here many times on GW! But how do you take it to the next level, especially when it looks so sterile on paper? One thing I know is that I want my kitchen to say, "Welcome! This is a place where people live and are nourished in body and soul." Our family’s motto has always been "Make too much, invite too many." I love my pot rack – I wash them by hand and like having them in an easy to access place – so I’m thinking of a pot rack or open shelving on the island. There’s something comforting to me about looking at cookbooks, so I’d like to have them on display. I’ve got some fiesta ware, and I’ve never been afraid of color.

I’ve already bought a pantry door already, from a 1922 Bungalow: http://denver.craigslist.org/clt/1235580059.html We intend to build a pantry with drywall/door to the left of the fridge.

Other random things:
- The microwave still needs a home
- DH is dead set against a prep sink, but ok with a pot filler
- We’re toying with the idea of making our own cabinets. Problem is, DH has this thing called a full-time job in addition to the rest of this DIY. :o) But he does have the ability to make custom adjustments and built ins – just something to keep in mind if you see places for creativity.
- Would appreciate feedback about the dining room: is it big enough? Our current dining room will become a seating area, so the new one will be the principal gathering spot for the house.
- Here's a photo of the current kitchen. The entire (salmon colored) wall and door under the pot rack will be knocked out. So, from where the picture was taken, you'll be about 25' from the new sink. What to do with the current kitchen is a whole other post, but we're thinking message center.

Lastly, here's a couple other views of the new addition:

(Sideways, sorry):

Thanks friends! Your feedback is invaluable!
Peace_Rose

My biggest concerns about this layout are

1. A hood over the range - seems like it'll be totally in the way
2. No large pantry space - we get much of our dry good through an organic bulk order. Large supplies can be kept in the "mud" room next to the laundry room, but more storage is definitely better!
3. We live in Alaska and I can't seem to fit in many south facing windows. I'd love to get in another window sacrificing storage.

Thanks for any and all feedback! The other threads on here have been great for planning!

Aaren

I've tried to post this entry before, but can't seem to make it work. Forgive me if this is a duplicate...

I'm going to try to post both a jpg file and an excel file that contain my kitchen layout. Regarding the layout, does it seem like I'm trying to cram much into a small to medium sized space? Also, the short side of the "L" is 30" deep, while the long side is 26". Aesthetically, will that look weird?

Thanks in advance for all input!

Rose

I know, I know, you are scrolling down to the pictures anyway, so here it is:

By no means was this a gut rehab. I liked to call it a tweak, which made DH roll his eyes...we had a lovely kitchen before. However, when we needed to reconfigure the adjoining family room and mudroom, we got to the point where we would have been matching things in the kitchen we didn't love in the first place, so we decided to go for it and fix the main issues as well. The old kitchen was way too dark, the main passageway (by the brick) was too narrow, we needed more storage, and we really wanted a place to eat besides the island.

Before:

(this was after we had already demoed the wall)

What we did:
--enlarged window
--demo'ed wall which we knew had brick behind it--we were just trying to gain width (we got about 5'') but I also love the look!
--replaced uppers and oven cab and island
--reused island to become new peninsula (we cut down the existing top)and coverted the cabinets in it to drawers
--honed the granite and removed the 4'' backsplash (it couldn't be honed in place anyway)
--kept the old appliances, except for ovens and hood
--painted everything white

Details:

--Ovens--Monogram
--Hood--custom from a local sheet metal shop; innards are Modernaire
--New cabs--Crown Point
--Hardware--Restoration Hardware and Van Dyke's
--Backsplash--4'' V-groove beadboard

I was very worried about the uppers being inset and the bottoms being full overlay...but it bothers me not at all. Also, I felt really, really guilty about painting the cherry, which is why I didn't do it for 9 years (the kitchen was done by the previous owners). But as soon as it was done I didn't look back.

My sweet DS told me, "Mommy, it could be in a kitchen magazine." (They have seen me reading them constantly for a couple of years.) He knows the way to my heart!

Holly

vintage wedgewood stove
vintage sink
vintage island and recycled upper cabs from original kitchen
diamond cabinets
rejuvination lighting
marmoleum flooring

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

• Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)
• Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you...do you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?
   • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

     E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

     Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

   • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.
2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.
   • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

   • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.

HTH!

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.
2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...
   • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
   • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

5. If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
   • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
   • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
   • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
   • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
• Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
• Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
• Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

- Cereal and canned goods go in the pantry
- silverware and glasses near the dishwasher
- potholders go near the stove
- Most appropriate place for the trash can
- best place for storage of cookie sheets, measuring cups, etc.
- etc, etc, etc (Someone, somewhere must have done this before, right? Feel free to mention even the most obvious!)

This is like putting a puzzle together!

I'm sure there's some universals, and some that depend on the particular set-up. Ours is shaping up to be an L-shape with an island.

Let's see -
First I made sure dh & kiddies were out while I did this

I used a lower cab next to dw to put kiddie cups, bowls, plates - for their easy access
I used a large drawer nxt to fridge for cereals and kid snacks - again, easy access
-In that same bank of drawers nxt to fridge - top drawer is ziplock bags, saran wraps and cutting boards
- nxt drawer is all tupperware -
I have a hutch type cab above that bank (nxt to fridge) that is what I use as pantry - bread, coffee, peanut butter, crackers etc

Drawers nxt to range on right (I'm right handed) are all pots, mixing bowls, some small appliances, and the utensils
left side of range are - top: Foil, napkins (near table)spice drawer, baking supplies
Upper cabs nxt to range - Oils, vinegar, pasta, canned
goods,

I have a small bank of drawers 14" as you enter kit - that is where cell phones, keys, 1 drawer has a silverware caddy for everyday tools, measuring tape, etc.. paper, envelopes, take out menus etc (this bank has been great!)

The rest are self explan - like everyday dishes, glasses in upper next to dw
-glass upper houses pretty dishes/glasses
- lwer cabs - large items, salad bowls, appliances (crock pot)
Drawers near range dishtowels, microfiber, pot holders

HTH
Good luck!

I agree that kids usually will do homework wherever, and tend to spread out a little - one on the couch, one on the computer, one in a bedroom. I think that after being confined at a desk at school most of the day, the kids want space and comfort. So, even though they COULD sit at the island or table for homework, they usually choose a soft perch in solitude.

Also, I think it is possible to make an open dining area more 'formal', so that you get the great floorplan, but still maintain a gorgeous space. I just bought a pile of moulding to do paneled wainscoating in my open dining room, which will really dress up and define the space.

Here's a link to pics, showing our unfinished computer nook area, and how it works with our kitchen space.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to pics

We are building a 15’x23’ addition to house a new kitchen/dining area. We haven’t even broken ground, so almost everything is a blank slate, but the plumbing needs to stay in the general part of the room where it is now. We know we want a door to the patio, a door to the backyard, and to take advantage of the natural light on the south end of the room.

Our home is a 1945 cottage (post WWII traditional), painted brick exterior, 850 sf + 850 sf in the basement. Current kitchen measures 7’x8’! What I dislike most is that we are always running into one another, there’s not enough storage (in the whole house), I don’t have a place to sit down and pay the bills or to stash a mop and bucket. I’m hoping the new addition can help alleviate these problems with some careful planning.

I’ve been combing BH&G for inspiration. Plan on white shaker style cabinets, oak floors, charcoal formica countertops, vaulted ceiling (using scissor tresses), 2 ceiling fans, sky lights, pendant lighting over the sink and island, and recessed canned lights. We already have a 30" stainless fridge, 30" white range, and will need to purchase an over the range microwave and dishwasher.

The door on the north leads to a 12’x15’ covered patio. I’m thinking that the traffic plan I’ve laid out encourages movement to the patio, the dining room and to the back door, but not through the kitchen work zone. At least that’s what I’m hoping to achieve. I love talking with my children and guests while I prep the food, but I don’t want them in my way!!

The Sink Wall overlooks our backyard and garden, so I created a 57"x48" window there. In the NE corner I’m thinking of some sort of shelf, or a cabinet flush with the wall, but definitely not a "corner" cabinet. I hate how corner cabinets waste space. Prefer a blind base cabinet below (not a lazy susan!), but am open to other ideas.

I’m thinking that a "mud" space in the SE corner would be a great idea….perhaps a bench with a cushion, hooks on the wall, and some nooks and crannies. There’s some space over on the West wall where I may refurbish a 1.5’x5’ dresser and make it into a buffet table. (These 2 things are low on our list, but I’m trying to keep the master plan in mind).

The dining room (south wall) is 5 feet from a chain link fence and neighbor’s porch, so there’s nothing special about the view. However, we are in Denver, and want to take advantage of the natural light but still have privacy/cozy area to gather. I’m thinking of elevating the windows about 4’ 5" above the ground. Longterm vision is to put some shaker style paneling on the walls with a crown-molding shelf at eye level. We have a corner hutch with glass doors that would fit nicely in the SW corner.

As for the island, we’re considering completing the perimeter of the kitchen first, then building the island when we get a better sense of how much more counter space we need. The island in the floorplan measures 72"x36".

The 105" doorway leads to the current kitchen (it’s currently an exterior wall that will be taken down). The current kitchen will probably become a wide hallway, or maybe even a long/narrow half bath on the North side. Another option would be to make this area into a message/communication center. Further to the West is our living room.

Here’s a list of appliances/kitchen items I use on a regular basis: Bread machine, Kitchen Aid Mixer, Large soup pot, George Foreman, Food Processor, Coffee Maker, blender, flat baking stones, yogurt maker, 20 cookbooks, toaster, pie plates, casserole dishes and computer. I’d like to have them mostly out of sight, but easily accessible.

In our extended family, a party with less than 30 guests is "small". I love to cook, we eat together every night, and we plan to stay in this home for a long time. We have 3 kids under 5, and in our tight space everything gets cluttered real fast. I want to take advantage of every square inch! We get one shot to do this right. I really see the kitchen as the soul of our family, a place where memories are made and cherished. I’m not trying to create a high-end kitchen but I can’t emphasize enough how much we need to get the layout right so it can be the heart of our home. Community, hospitality, simplicity, and generosity are our family’s core values.

My husband moonlights as a handyman, so we can do most of the work ourselves. I can’t wait to hear what y’all have to say!