Clippings by peace_rose

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Revealing my 60% done kitchen - also need a few tips

posted by: peace_rose on 01.15.2011 at 01:15 am in Kitchens Forum

It's hard to believe it's been almost 2 years since I jumped on this forum and begged for help planning our kitchen/dining room addition. At that time EVERYTHING was a blank slate. One of my early posts was looking for feedback on whether to locate the kitchen on the north or south side of the addition! Although there are still a lot of finishing details to complete, my kitchen is up and running and I am THRILLED with how it functions. We've gone from a family of 5 with no dishwasher to a spacious place where everyone wants to gather.

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View of the other side of the room where the dining room is:

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Here's a layout of the space:

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As for the materials used:
Wall Paint: BM Navajo White
Marvin Windows
Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone Laminate
Kohler smart divide cast iron sink (love it!)
Thermocast prep sink
Faucets from Lowes and Home Depot
Stove: 1954 O'Keefe & Merritt model 405
Schoolhouse Electric Lighting
Cabinets: 6 Square
Cherry Butcher Block Countertop on the island (Lumber Liquidators)
Oak Hardwood Floors
**White subway backsplash tiles yet to be installed
**Chrome nickel pulls yet to be installed on cabinetry

Now for where I could use some help. My former kitchen had so much color that I'm afraid I played it a little too safe/conservative with going for a white kitchen. I'm disappointed that the finishes we chose don't coordinate. The laminate is matte and looks dull to me and I swear it has a bluish/grey undertone. I'm afraid the brown walnut stain we used on the windows clashes with the counters AND the brown finish on the pendant lights. Our energy and budget is about maxed out, so what's done is done (for now). But I would appreciate any thoughts on how to decorate / tie everything together anyway. Btw, I had a dream one night in which I posted this, and y'all said "It looks nice, but it looks soooooo 2008." :)

The other thing I should mention is that pantry cabinets haven't been completed yet. (Custom built by DH). They will go on the wall where the temporary shelving is located (with the canned goods in the picture). They'll need to be no deeper than 15". The trash and recycle are also located over there, and we purchased a 12" deep wall base for the end of the run. If you have any feedback about how to make it look good I'd love to hear it.

I really have given thanks over and over for the feedback on this forum. I could not have done it without you!

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clipped on: 01.15.2011 at 04:53 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2011 at 04:54 pm

Help choosing paint color and shower curtain

posted by: peace_rose on 01.13.2011 at 06:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Our bathroom has the original floor tile from 1945 and I need to decorate around it. (ie, we're not doing a major remodel, only paint and shower curtain). The tub is white with large white subway tiles and grey grout. I need help pulling it all together. Can you help me narrow down a paint color and pick a shower curtain?

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The tile is actually a lighter yellow than it appears in the picture. I held a color chip up to the tile and BM Hawthorne Yellow is a pretty close match. The squares are black. Since yellow paint can be so tricky, I'm a little more inclined to a grey or a yellowish beige on the walls. If you have any particular colors in mind, please share!

I'm considering one of these shower curtains:

http://www.amazon.com/Park-B-Smith-Shower-Curtain/dp/B003YFHHC2/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=INFYNU8JAS4F1&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

or

http://www.amazon.com/Xhilaration-Damask-Shower-Curtain-Black/dp/B003AS23QS/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2U1EI7CMX3UMC&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

Do you think the pattern would overwhelm the room with its size? Is it too dark for such a small room? I might consider this one, too: http://www.amazon.com/InterDesign-Fabric-Shower-Curtain-Leaves/dp/B002H9X6QW/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I14ZHC720SFNN4&colid=Y2UAGR273PV1

In the past I've gravitated toward lots of color; now I'm finding myself moving toward more calm tones/patterns. Any and all suggestions are appreciated!

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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 12:40 am    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 12:41 am

Fernwood Green in the Living Room?

posted by: peace_rose on 01.11.2011 at 03:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I "backed into" our current color scheme: previous owner's yellow paint choice, hand-me-down navy blue couch, and large icons with rusty red borders. Since I've never been crazy about the yellow walls anyway, I'm taking this opportunity to change them to green. I don't like the blue couch much either, but I'm thinking a relaxing green color will help things blend better. There are green tones in the area rug and artwork, too. Anyhow, here's a picture of the current set up:

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See the green towel and sweatshirt laying on the couch? They are my "inspiration". (Sorry for not cleaning up before I invited you over :). You can even see the paint chips taped to the wall next to the icon. I've got it narrowed down to BM Fernwood Green 2145-40 or Georgian Green HC 115, but I could be persuaded otherwise. The walls wrap around and intersect with a hallway that's painted Monroe Bisque (BM HC 26) and then lead to the kitchen, with Navajo White walls and White Dove cabinetry.

Our budget has been drained by building the new kitchen and bath addition and I didn't expect to be painting the living room anyway. But when we drywalled to tie everything in we needed to touch up the walls and discovered we are out of the original yellow! So this is my one and only chance to justify to DH the need to repaint!

Here's the view down the short (Monroe Bisque) hallway leading to the dining room/kitchen:

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I couldn't have gotten this far without the invaluable advice from the folks over in the kitchen forum. Now I'm at your mercy! Thank you!
Peace_Rose

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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 12:39 am    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 12:40 am

cabinet knob placement

posted by: ship4u on 09.24.2010 at 01:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Are there any guidelines for where the cabinet knobs should be installed on the cabinet doors?
Thanks!

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clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 12:32 am    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 12:32 am

knob placement

posted by: cienza on 08.01.2010 at 12:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Is there some formula for door knob placement? Tried a search for previous comments; didn't get the correct results. Am I searching wrong? Seems like a common enough dilemna...

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clipped on: 08.02.2010 at 12:01 am    last updated on: 08.02.2010 at 12:02 am

Organizing Paper in the Kitchen

posted by: peace_rose on 07.20.2010 at 02:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Of all the things I'm excited about in my new kitchen (including finally having a dishwasher!), I can't wait to dedicate a cabinet to homework, bills, paperwork for school, etc. Currently I've no such space in my entire house and it drives me crazy; I'm thinking of it as a space where the kids can stash their homework before dinner, where my husband can hunt down his receipts that I finally got tired of looking at on the counter, where I can stash my "list" when I'm not using it. Just a temporary "out of sight" storage place. Each member of the family will have their own little horizontal file to call their very own. :)

I'm planning on organizing such files in a base cabinet that's 12" deep and 21" wide. The phone will sit on the countertop, and a calendar and bulletin board are nearby.

We deliberately chose not to build a desk because we didn't want it to overtake the space. But I know that our new kitchen/DR will be "command central" and we need a place to keep the family organized. I'm just curious to know how the rest of you organize office type stuff in the kitchen -- without letting it turn into an office! Any ideas or pictures you have would be awesome.

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clipped on: 07.20.2010 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 07.20.2010 at 10:26 am

Speak now or forever hold your peace!

posted by: peace_rose on 07.10.2010 at 01:59 am in Kitchens Forum

After a zillion different layouts and a winter's worth of minor delays we are *this close* to ordering the cabinets!!! We've built a 15'x23' addition where we are relocating the kitchen/dining room. We've got the electrical and plumbing roughed in, and the dry wall is up. I'm not looking for major layout changes; there's just a few areas that need some tweaking:

1. Those 30" base cabinets on either side of the stove. Can anyone make a good argument for roll out trays? As it turns out, drawers are not all that much more expensive. But should I get base cabs with 2 or 3 drawers? Would it look off-balance if I did one of each? (I'm planning on storing pots/pans/tupperware/serving bowls/casserole dishes/mixing bowls and hot pads near the stove, but not food). I'm wondering if the 2 drawer cabs are too deep and if we'll wind up with wasted space? My hunch is to get one of each; can anyone confirm my hunch or challenge me on that?

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2. Question about FORM: The ceiling is 8' high behind the stove but vaults to about 13' high in the middle of the room. Here's a pic of the stove wall:

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Partial view of the Sink Wall:

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And the Pantry Wall:

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I'm trying to figure out how to gracefully place the molding at the top of the cabinets because there will be a gradually increasing space between the top of the molding and the ceiling. Any thoughts?

3. Question about FORM: I intended to place a glass fronted cabinet above the DW, but the cabinet company doesn't offer them in 24" wide. But they do offer them in 18" which would work on both sides of the stove. Any opinions on which place would look better for glass fronted cabs? (I think my husband could ultimately modify a 24" cab but he would really grumble about it). But if you think it would look better above the DW where my dishes will be, please say so!

It's exciting to be this close. We broke ground last August, so working on the finishing touches is both exhilarating and nerve-wracking!

Thanks GW friends!

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clipped on: 07.10.2010 at 06:28 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2010 at 07:03 pm

RE: Off white that isn't yellow or pink? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plllog on 07.08.2010 at 06:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

True white white, like Benjamin Moore Superwhite, might be too stark for you.

Everything else is going to be a tint. That is, it'll be red (pink), yellow, blue, green, orange (pink), purple, brown or black (gray). Yep. Your Crayola box of eight colors.

I think White Dove is a blue gray. It's very pretty.

Navajo white is a very brown white, which isn't yellow or pink (which are components of brown), but still warm. That's why people love Navajo.

If you can't find the white you want, you can create it by choosing a color you want for the undertone and adding a drop at a time to white base until you get the tone you want. They can duplicate that with the computer if you want it machine mixed.

NOTES:

Helpful for understanding undertones. Navajo White has brown undertones
clipped on: 07.08.2010 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2010 at 11:01 pm

match tile to white cabs or use a starker white?

posted by: tartan22 on 05.18.2010 at 03:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am in love with adex beveled tile but it is a slightly starker white than my cabs.

Should I use a matching tile (non-beveled rittenhouse artic white matches cabs) or use the starker white beveled adex tiles?

Help!

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clipped on: 07.08.2010 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 07.08.2010 at 12:12 am

Mail order kitchen cabinets

posted by: hanna7636 on 06.14.2010 at 06:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Can anyone recommend a company who has quality kitchen cabinets and good design service? I have looked at mei cabinets and kitchenspro so far.

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clipped on: 07.05.2010 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2010 at 05:35 pm

Has anyone bought cabinets off Ebay - NEW

posted by: carrianne22 on 08.26.2007 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't believe how much cheaper these cabinets are: http://www.neighborhoods-inc.com/cabinets.html (Lexington) than anything else we have looked at! 2K cheaper for similar ones.

Our sample door front comes tomorrow. Has anyone bought the Lexington cabinets. Anyone bought from Neighborhoods? I found them on ebay.

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clipped on: 07.05.2010 at 12:55 am    last updated on: 07.05.2010 at 12:56 am

What's your favorite yellow in the kitchen?

posted by: peace_rose on 07.03.2010 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

We've got the drywall up and sanded...could move ahead with painting if I could only choose a color! All along I had planned a classic white kitchen, including the paint, but now I'm considering yellow. I'm afraid of it being too stark if we go with all white. If we do go with white, it will probably be BM Linen White.

I got a sample of BM "Lemon Drop" but it was, go figure, a little too lemony. I'm thinking something a little warmer / sunnier.

Cabinets are white (very close to BM White Dove). White subway tile backsplash. Oiled soapstone Laminate, butcher block island, and medium oak floors.

I know it's hard to gauge paint color on a computer monitor, but if you've had luck with a certain color I'd love to see it. My preference would be BM or Behr.

Thanks so much!
Peace_rose

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clipped on: 07.03.2010 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2010 at 10:45 pm

Please recommend SW or BM warm off-white paint color for cabs

posted by: desi5 on 05.13.2010 at 09:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am looking for any recommendations (and pics!) for a very warm off-white/cream paint color for our cabinets. We really want something that will not appear too white and with a slight yellow undertone, rather than gray or green.

Thanks in advance for your help!

~Des

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clipped on: 06.14.2010 at 03:19 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2010 at 03:19 pm

Buffer Tank + Tankless Question

posted by: ragna_r on 10.13.2009 at 11:11 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

I'm a homeowner who made the mistake 2 years ago of installing a tankless for my radiant floor heating. In the process of trying to 'make it work' using the tankless heater I already own, I've had the system re-piped into a primary/secondary loop system with a buffer tank.
My question with this setup is: should I be running the tankless at as high a delta as I possibly can? I've always had to run 140 deg. water in the stapled up tubing to get the rooms to come up to temperature with any kind of speed. Lacking the thermal mass of a slab or even the metal plates under the subfloor, I assumed that the higher the temp. differential the faster things would heat up. With my tankless I was thinking to set it at 158, and keep the buffer tank at 140 which would dump out to the floor loops. I'm trying to prevent the short cycling I was getting before and try to make the tankless run a little more efficiently.
Thanks for any help you can offer.

NOTES:

I piped in with a question and the responses were helpful.
clipped on: 02.27.2010 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 02.27.2010 at 11:59 am

How do you coordinate without being matchy-matchy?

posted by: peace_rose on 01.22.2010 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Trying to pull all the little finishing details together, and just wondering if there�s any schools of thought on how to pull different "finishes" together. I don�t want it to look like I purchased everything at the same trip to the store (matchy-matchy). One the other hand I don�t want hodge-podge, like we raided the home improvement outlet!

The focal point of the kitchen is the vintage stove, with a shiny chrome top, like this:

http://www.antiqueappliancecompany.com/1954OKeefeMerrittmodel405.html

It�s not a "vintage" kitchen though. We�re going for that classic look you�ve seen a zillion times (white cabs, dark grey oiled soapstone laminate, white subway tile backsplash, schoolhouse lighting).

We�ll be using this chandelier over the dining room table for sure. In the picture it looks lighter than it really is. Whatever it is has a really cool patina that�s built up over the years:

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I�m thinking of re-using our current faucet (polished nickel with porcelain):

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Here�s the layout of our project:
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So that leaves the hardware/finishes the following up in the air:

- Pendant and Sconce Lighting (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze).
- Cabinet drawer pulls and knobs (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze or satin nickel)
- Doorknobs (leaning toward oil rubbed bronze or satin nickel KNOBS not levers)

Thus back to the original question: can I pull this all together without it being too hodge podge? Is it best to have a variety of finishes?

As always, thank you all so much!!

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clipped on: 01.26.2010 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2010 at 01:46 pm

Question about installing toe kick heating

posted by: ttosh on 01.15.2010 at 11:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

So our plumber came today and figured out where the heat would be installed. He said that we will need toe kick heating under our perimeter cabinets. That's fine. But, he says he will need to cut out the bottoms of some of the cabinets to install these toe kick heaters. Is that the only way to do this? We have gutted the kitchen down to nothing so cabinets are not in place yet. I hate the idea of cutting the floors of brand new cabinets.

Please help!

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clipped on: 01.17.2010 at 12:43 am    last updated on: 01.17.2010 at 12:43 am

RE: Help with range hood please (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kristine_2009 on 11.27.2009 at 06:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

peace_rose, on this particular one I believe you just need the insert and the rough in kit. It says it has a 360 cfm blower as part of the insert. This model should be good enough for us, we aren't wanting to spend alot on a hood (this will be the first I have ever had one). From what I can tell each model is different. Some people have external blowers too. We are going straight out the side wall so we will only have a few inches of duct work.
If you are buying online, check different sites. I found a huge difference in prices on the hood and the rough in kit. I bought the hood from rainbow appliance and the rough in kit from buy.com. I see now that buy.com has pulled it from their site though for some reason. Anyway, hope that helps!

NOTES:

info about hood insert and rough in kit. Whew.
clipped on: 11.27.2009 at 06:42 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2009 at 06:43 pm

Somewhat Finished, Somewhat Budget... White Vintage Kitchen

posted by: janie-k on 02.25.2009 at 06:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a preview of our not quite finished kitchen. It has been in this same state since before Christmas and I'm guessing it will be a bit before we get around to finishing things (such as molding and the backsplash). Anyways, I thought I'd go ahead and post it now, since I'm so grateful for all the kitchens (finished or not) I was able to see on this forum when I was in the planning phase.

After:

Before Kitchen

This kitchen didn't start out as a budget remodel, but since we were/are doing a whole house remodel, by the end of the kitchen we had spent much more than planned and so the Kitchen budget was cut to 20K.

Some of the details...

Range, Dishwasher & Micro: GE Cafe
Fridge: Counter Depth Bosch
Floor: Ceramic Tile 13"x13" with 4" black marble insets.
Ceiling Lights: Restoration Hardware
Cabinets: Custom by local cabinet maker
Cabinet Paint: Benjamin Moore Aura Paint in White Dove (DIY)
Cabinet Hardware: Restoration Hardware
Sink: Elkay stainless zero radius sink from Home Depot (it can under-mount or top-mount)... we had a sad story involving a beautiful stainless farm sink received with shipping damage that lead to this sink. In the end I'm totally happy with this sink, so it all worked out :)
Counters - Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone Laminate in 3cm thickness to simulate soapstone. I couldn't decide between Soapstone or Marble, so we decided to go laminate for the time being... I'm actually so happy with it, I think it will stay for quite a while.
Breakfast Bar: Walnut top done by cabinet maker

NOTES:

Wilsonart oiled Soapstone Laminate #4882 http://samples.wilsonart.com/p-529-oiled-soapstone-4882-38.aspx
clipped on: 11.26.2009 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2009 at 03:50 pm

My 80% Creamy White Finished Kitchen!

posted by: janicecarolyn on 11.18.2009 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello-

First off let me thank everyone for so much support in the designing of the kitchen. I wouldn't not have been able to do this with out such a great support group. People are so helpful and kind with their suggestions. I so appreciative for the amount of time people have put into answering questions!... I am truly grateful.

I included one "before" and several after. The entire first floor of the house needs updating and we started with the kitchen. The flooring will be natural red oak through out the first floor. In case you see some things..that don't...

What's left. Enough! Running out of money! Backsplash, the valence over the sink, the molding around the buffet and a piece of molding above refrig, pendants, chandelier and a round table. Oh and new stainless dishwasher, and new hot water dispenser. Some things of course will be finished this week..like cabinet stuff. But I couldn't wait another second to post.

The backsplash will be creamy white subway tile and above the stove a rectangle framed focal point of marble tile..creamy colors.

Details.
Yourktowne Cabinets - Maple with Linen finish
Black Pearl Granite
Satin Nickel knobs
Glass Knobs for Desk
Summerset Natural Red Oak Floors
GE Profile, Microwave, cook top and double oven (all from before in orginal kitchen)
Ge Profile hood
Electrolux Refrigerator
Kitchen Aid dishwasher..to be replaced at some point..stainless
Danze Faucet, satin nickel
Hot water dispenser (it's old and ugly..will replace that too)

Here is the before:

bahref="http://s577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/repaintingagain/?action=view�t=IMG_2082.jpg" target="_blank">Before

And After: (I hope it looks good to people other then me!)

80% Kitchen

overview

Buffet..there used to be a closet here
Buffet

long view of appliance wall

more of desk

Desk knobs;
funky knobs

sink area

hood

overview

appliance wall

NOTES:

Great info on cabinet colors....scroll down
clipped on: 11.24.2009 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 11.24.2009 at 12:39 am

Can a kitchen have too much individual POP?

posted by: remodelfla on 11.13.2009 at 07:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Question of the day: Can you have too many individual items in your kitchen that are suppose to POP or stand out? For example, I have the bakers table... meant to be a stand out piece. I'd love a killer piece of marble or quartzite for that table. I LOVE swirly crazy granite/quartzite as well. I love gorgeous glass tiles.... you get the idea.

So... I'm debating cabinets. DH was going to build them. I adore the red birch with incredible luster like pharaoh has. (has some color variation too). But is it too much? Would I be better off going for "quieter" cabinets as a backdrop for the countertop, backsplash, and bakers table? I want a light/medium toned wood in a wide rail/stile shaker style. Very much like the IKEA Adel door in the beech color. If we don't build; I"m leaning toward those because they are functional, the style I want, and the color I want. Plus... they would cost about the same as it would for us to build. There are many other brands out there that also fit the bill style/color wise; but I'm sure they'd cost 2x-3x as much.

My heart belongs to gorgeous stones. I want nice cabinets, good cabinets, cabinets that'll last. But for me, when I look at a kitchen, I typically go to the counters and backsplash (pharaoh's kitchen is an exception since I'm in love with his cabinets). But I wonder if too much bling is just too much... if you know what i mean. Thoughts?

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clipped on: 11.15.2009 at 06:43 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2009 at 06:44 pm

When do you use convection cooking?

posted by: pennyr26 on 10.31.2009 at 08:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

My range (GE Cafe) is a regular gas range/oven as well as a convection oven. This is new to me. When do you use the convection feature? Anything you can tell me about this would be helpful. Thanks!

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clipped on: 11.08.2009 at 11:55 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2009 at 11:56 pm

Relative costs of siding: cedar shingle, clapboard, Hardiplank?

posted by: staceyneil on 02.02.2009 at 02:07 pm in Building a Home Forum

In a perfect world I would love to see oil-stained cedar shingles on our house reno, but the budget is so tight that if we can't trim it, we can't afford to do it this year.

I know I can get prices from the lumberyard, but off the top of your head, do you know what the least expensive siding is (not vinyl or aluminum, though)? We used pine clapboards (painted) on a previous old-house reno -to match existing- and that was fairly cheap if I recall.... but I have no idea how it compares to the other options. Anyone priced these out lately? I am in New England...

Thanks!

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clipped on: 10.18.2009 at 01:28 am    last updated on: 10.18.2009 at 01:28 am

Should my U turn into a G? Update from Peace_Rose

posted by: peace_rose on 09.21.2009 at 01:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Construction on our kitchen/dining room addition is moving along nicely, except that I'm still in the design phase! I swear we are getting really, really close - no more major changes after this! This is a DIY project so we are moving at our own pace, but we do need to make this final layout decision so we can move ahead with the framing and get the windows ordered.

We've been planning a U shape kitchen with an island. The dimensions are 14'4" x 23'. Today I marked everything out with tape on the sub floor, and now I have several big concerns. Just as someone here on GW forewarned, the aisles are quite narrow - 2 aisles are just barely 39" (allowing generous room for the fridge to jut out). I'm afraid that the island might be cumbersome. Also, the main prep area (next to prep sink) would face away from the table conversation and away from the sight line of the main living area. I would always be looking to the left or over my shoulder. Considering the orientation of the rest of the house, that "feels" really, really uncomfortable to me. Here's the layout:

Last chance for U shape

Perhaps someone has a better suggestion for where to do prep? (The ideal place would be on the opposite side of the island where the prep sink is now).

Let me be the first to point out that the layout below (G Shape) does not look as good on paper. But in real life it just feels better as I walk around the actual space. I know most of you are biased toward a prep sink, but in the layout below I would use the bar that juts out for prep: it's 6 feet from the fridge and 4 feet from the sink. The benefits of the G shape include:

- bar seating
- 1 less window = $400 savings
- Prep area that faces the action and is in the sight line of the rest of the house.

Here it is:
Front runner G shape

Drawbacks of the G include:
- There's only room for a 2' bar counter (12" leg room, 12" cabinets). I'm ok with 12" deep cabinets, and would face them toward the dining room anyway. But we really can't move the door jam any further than 11' from the stove wall. (Door is currently 10' 6" from south wall). I tried laying it out with a 3' bar, but it makes it really tight near the door.
- I've had my heart set on a pot rack which won't work in the G shape

A few other notes:
- I'm learning that there's no such thing as a perfect kitchen, but if you see any major red flags in terms of traffic jams, etc, I'm all ears!
- DH wants the DW right next to the sink (a plumbing issue)
- The stove, sink and fridge are pretty much fixed where they're at; fridge and sink could move within 3 feet either direction.
- Please excuse the rudimentary upper/lower cabinets. If I had this to do over I would have invested in some kitchen design software rather than relying on IKEA...(we're not using IKEA cabs, just the software).

Thanks so much everybody!

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clipped on: 09.23.2009 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2009 at 01:21 pm

RE: Windows on either side of stove; pictures please! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: smarge on 09.12.2009 at 08:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's another picture to consider.

I've lived in my kitchen for a year and two months and still love it every day! In large part, I owe it all to Gardenweb - the end result is nothing like the original, pre-discovering GW, plan!

Good luck planning your own kitchen - I wish you zero regrets a year later!

kitchen showing windows by stove

BTW, if you do casement windows, remember to leave enough room for the crank or you might end up scratching your countertop.

NOTES:

The best inspiration for windows flanking stove; great hood, too.
clipped on: 09.12.2009 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2009 at 12:12 pm

I'm finally DONE!! Here it is!

posted by: pirula on 03.06.2007 at 03:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry this took me so long to post. Been busy cooking!!!

Enjoy!
Ivette

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivette's Kitchen

NOTES:

Wow - gorgeous kitchen. #401 on finished kitchens forum.
clipped on: 09.12.2009 at 01:43 am    last updated on: 09.12.2009 at 01:44 am

counter height window pictures please

posted by: lodalady on 02.09.2009 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm curious about the counter height window. I searched this forum, but nothing appeared to address this topic. I'm ordering my new window this week, but before I do, I'd love to see what you have done.

Please share your pictures, please????

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.12.2009 at 12:21 am    last updated on: 09.12.2009 at 12:21 am

This is truly an emergency!

posted by: peace_rose on 09.01.2009 at 01:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi folks,
My husband is ready to give me a one-way ticket to Siberia because I had cold feet about the layout we agreed upon for our new kitchen/dining room addition. To make a long story short, we had gone back and forth with 2 different locations for the kitchen (north vs. south) and I caved in to the one he liked better (north). We broke ground and laid the 15'x23' foundation. I crawled in the hole and drew the layout on the ground, and my gut reaction was that we should have gone with locating it on the south side. Obviously, the permits have been granted and if we change course now it's an inconvenience and a couple hundred dollars to change course. But in the grand scheme of things if we're going to change course, we have to decide NOW. So my dear GW friends...we need to come up with an emergency layout with "Strong Bones" that's "good enough" and can be fine tuned later on. I challenge you to rise to the occasion!

Here's what's non-negotiable:
- Sink at/near the location in the layout below
- Windows above sink (East wall). The ones in the diagram are 28"x48"
- A window on (West) wall opposite the sink (next to pantry in the layout below). This window could be located below, at, or above counter height, and needs to be within 6 feet from the exterior (ie, it can't move much more to the left of where it is now).

DH really, really, really wants a window on the South (stove) wall, but I'm not sure how to fit it in. I'd be ok with putting the fridge where the pantry is if it meant opening up room for windows on the south wall.

Dimensions of the room are 14'6" x 23'

Thank you so much in advance!
Peace_Rose

Emergency Layout - Birdseye

Photobucket

NOTES:

Chronicles the fine tuning of the decision to move the kitchen to the south side.
clipped on: 09.04.2009 at 01:32 am    last updated on: 09.04.2009 at 01:33 am

Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Posted earlier but pictures were too small. Hope this works.
Trisha

IMG_0126
IMG_0124
IMG_0135
IMG_0140
IMG_0138
IMG_0131
IMG_0120
IMG_0116
IMG_0129
IMG_0136
IMG_0118

IMG_0130

NOTES:

I like the custom hood.
clipped on: 07.14.2009 at 01:51 am    last updated on: 07.14.2009 at 01:51 am

99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone

posted by: jbrodie on 03.01.2009 at 06:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally! Our kitchen is finished! I never thought the day would come, and boy am I enjoying it. I owe so much to this forum. I can't tell you how much you all helped me. Thank you!!! I hope I can help others in return.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Island
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Photobucket

Photobucket

soap stone

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard paint...fun! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!

NOTES:

Ooo la la!
clipped on: 07.08.2009 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2009 at 11:39 pm

Same white paint on cabinets and walls?

posted by: paintpanther on 07.02.2009 at 10:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Have always wondered what others do. In our kitchen we have white cabinets against white walls, right now they are the same white color. Just curious whether we are supposed to use a different shade of white for the walls and cabinets?

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.05.2009 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2009 at 10:38 pm

What 'cons' did you choose to live with?

posted by: needsometips08 on 07.02.2009 at 03:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Since the perfect kitchen doesn't seem to actually be possible, I am curious in your kitchen renovation, which "cons" did you choose to live with in order to make more important gains elsewhere?

And if you have your new kitchen done, how is that con working out? Regrets or not as bad as you expected?

It appears I have 3 sets of cons to pick between:

1) lack of adequate dish storage near DW (and period) and a crossing of zones (between clean up and cooking)

2) fridge far from work zone (8' from prep sink, 13' from stove, 17' from clean up sink) and smaller pantry space (28" by up to 30" deep verses a 6' run)

3) a functional choice that both hubby and I very, very, very strongly dislike asthetically and crams the fridge, prep sink, microwave, and range into a very tiny area.

I am having the hardest time ever. None of these options seem feasible, but I HAVE to pick one.

I am hoping by hearing your guys' stories about picking cons and how they turned out, it will lead to some spec of insight so that I can better choose.

NOTES:

Lots of discussion about DW/dish storage and location of the trash. Interesting.
clipped on: 07.04.2009 at 02:20 am    last updated on: 07.04.2009 at 02:21 am

Vintage Stove - practical or not?

posted by: peace_rose on 06.10.2009 at 12:49 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been toying with the idea of incorporating a vintage stove into our remodel. Something like this, except white in color and not as fancy: http://www.antiqueappliances.com/products/restored/1948_o%27keefe_&_merrit_gas_stove.htm

The main reason is because I'm feeling cramped by our 30" stove, but we don't have the budget for a 36" stove. There are several vintage stoves like this one on craigslist in my area for $100-$400. I know they would probably need some restoring, but it would still be cheaper than a dual fuel range. Again, it's the size that's attractive to me so there would be lots of room on top for my pots and pans.

One practical question I have is whether the oven is wide enough for a turkey or several cookie sheets at once? Does anyone know the answer to this question?

I'm not deliberately pursuing a vintage kitchen look. But my home was built in 1945, so it might be a neat way to incorporate the old and new. We'll be installing white shaker style cabinets.
Thanks!
Peace

NOTES:

Has great web links to vintage stoves
clipped on: 06.30.2009 at 12:40 am    last updated on: 06.30.2009 at 12:41 am

RE: Kitchen Islands - Lets See Your Pics (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: holligator on 02.08.2009 at 09:58 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine...

NOTES:

Holligator's Layout. She shared dimensions in my post entitled "how do you get that unique custom look"
clipped on: 06.30.2009 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 06.30.2009 at 12:35 am

How do you get that unique custom look?

posted by: peace_rose on 06.25.2009 at 06:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I posted an earlier version of this layout a few weeks back, and have been tweaking it ever since. Thanks for all the feedback! We are building a living/dining room addition on our house, and the inside dimensions of the room will be 23x146". Im pretty happy with the overall scheme, but would love to hear about any quirks you might see. Please note that I couldnt get the IKEA software to do everything I wanted Im just using it because I cant figure out Sketchup! Also note that the island is a total blank slate, too I just dropped some 36"x72" cabinets there but am still unsure how to configure it.

Birdseye

There are 2 things Im focusing on now: 1) Windows and 2) How to incorporate small details into the plan so we dont end up with a cookie cutter kitchen. So here we go...

1)
a. Since everythings a blank slate, we can put the windows wherever we want. The window above the sink faces East. I put a 24"x36" tall shelf on the north wall that is flush with the wall, for cookbooks and display up top. This enables us to have a wider window. But the cabinet guy I talked to recommended a corner wall cabinet, saying that I would regret not having the extra storage space up there. (With his plan the window would need to be narrower. But to me, upper corner storage is almost useless anyway). But there IS room for a corner cabinet AND a tall narrow cabinet to the right of that, too. With all this in mind, how big should the window above the sink be? (In the current scheme theres two 27"x42" mulled windows).

b. Is it ok that the sink is not centered under the window?

c. Well be using double hung windows with a grid pattern (another shortcoming the software doesnt show).
d. The Dining Room: Faces South, with awesome Colorado sunshine, but the view is nothing great. The smaller window on the West mimics one on the front of the house. I also have a corner hutch, pictured below (current dining room), that I would like to paint white and "build in" to the new addition. Does it make sense to accommodate a piece of furniture into a new addition?

Current Dining Room

2) Now for a little about style. Our house is a 1945 Cottage. So it really does make sense to do white shaker cabinets weve seen the look here many times on GW! But how do you take it to the next level, especially when it looks so sterile on paper? One thing I know is that I want my kitchen to say, "Welcome! This is a place where people live and are nourished in body and soul." Our familys motto has always been "Make too much, invite too many." I love my pot rack I wash them by hand and like having them in an easy to access place so Im thinking of a pot rack or open shelving on the island. Theres something comforting to me about looking at cookbooks, so Id like to have them on display. Ive got some fiesta ware, and Ive never been afraid of color.

Ive already bought a pantry door already, from a 1922 Bungalow: http://denver.craigslist.org/clt/1235580059.html We intend to build a pantry with drywall/door to the left of the fridge.

Other random things:
- The microwave still needs a home
- DH is dead set against a prep sink, but ok with a pot filler
- Were toying with the idea of making our own cabinets. Problem is, DH has this thing called a full-time job in addition to the rest of this DIY. :o) But he does have the ability to make custom adjustments and built ins just something to keep in mind if you see places for creativity.
- Would appreciate feedback about the dining room: is it big enough? Our current dining room will become a seating area, so the new one will be the principal gathering spot for the house.
- Here's a photo of the current kitchen. The entire (salmon colored) wall and door under the pot rack will be knocked out. So, from where the picture was taken, you'll be about 25' from the new sink. What to do with the current kitchen is a whole other post, but we're thinking message center.

Current Kitchen 2

Lastly, here's a couple other views of the new addition:

(Sideways, sorry):
Kitchen

Dining Room

Thanks friends! Your feedback is invaluable!
Peace_Rose

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.25.2009 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2009 at 06:50 pm

Trouble with kitchen layout...

posted by: akaaren on 05.14.2009 at 11:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're building an addition to our funky old house. It's 16x24. I've been moving things and moving things, an it just doesn't seem right. My husband and I are both avid cooks, but we have a small budget and this will all be DIY. We're just starting a family, so there'll be little ones in this house. Everything in the main room of this floor plan can be moved - except the stairs and the north windows. I'm not attached to the peninsula. I've also played with an island or a double L layout. The main entrance to the house is through the front door, but we anticipate lots of traffic from the basement garage (outside entrance only) too.

My biggest concerns about this layout are

1. A hood over the range - seems like it'll be totally in the way
2. No large pantry space - we get much of our dry good through an organic bulk order. Large supplies can be kept in the "mud" room next to the laundry room, but more storage is definitely better!
3. We live in Alaska and I can't seem to fit in many south facing windows. I'd love to get in another window sacrificing storage.

Thanks for any and all feedback! The other threads on here have been great for planning!

Aaren

I've tried to post this entry before, but can't seem to make it work. Forgive me if this is a duplicate...

NOTES:

Lots of helpful info here, with dimensions that are very similar to ours.
clipped on: 06.25.2009 at 01:48 am    last updated on: 06.25.2009 at 01:48 am

RE: How deep should a proper appliance garage be? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: flseadog on 06.20.2009 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our house is a new build so we had the flexibility of designing the kitchen we wanted. We have a 10.5' run of cabinets that includes the refrigerator. Because we knew we wanted a standard depth refrigerator and appliance garages our counter along this run is 30" deep. This allows our refrigerator to not jut out from the surrounding cabinets and it also allows us extra depth for the appiance garages. Our appliance garages are 18" deep (actually 17" interior with a 1/2" back wall and a 1/2" door in front) while we also have 12" of usable space in front of them. The wall cabinets are Brookhaven standard depth 13" but they are pulled 5" forward from the actual wall. I'm not sure of the construction method but the cabinet installer built out this portion of the wall with blocking in front of the real wall. Hope this picture is useful.

cabinet

NOTES:

Notice the appliance garage; 30" deep counters...
clipped on: 06.25.2009 at 01:12 am    last updated on: 06.25.2009 at 01:13 am

What shade of white for cabinets?! Please help

posted by: megpie77 on 05.15.2009 at 10:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am sure this is not a new topic. People weren't kidding when they said this would be the hardest choice. I took my pottery barn furniture to BM paint so they could color match it. Upon receiving the color swatch I feel like it looks kind of murky next to my countertop samples: gray/black soapstone, absolut black honed granite. I looked at floral white-too yellow, dove white-to stark for my lots-of-light kitchen. I am concidering mascarpone or moonlight white. Is anyone familiar with these? Does anyone have any advise? The bad knews is I need to know by tomorrow morning because my cabinet installer is on a time crunch to get them installed. It is so wierd...my furniture, when placed in my kitchen, doesn't look murky or dingy but it looks that way on the swatch. I am wondering if the color is just slightly off or if the sheen is making it look that way. AH, such a headache. Thanks!

NOTES:

May be helpful later on....
clipped on: 06.25.2009 at 12:55 am    last updated on: 06.25.2009 at 12:55 am

Seeking Layout Critique

posted by: neilar on 05.14.2009 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Everyone,

I'm going to try to post both a jpg file and an excel file that contain my kitchen layout. Regarding the layout, does it seem like I'm trying to cram much into a small to medium sized space? Also, the short side of the "L" is 30" deep, while the long side is 26". Aesthetically, will that look weird?

Thanks in advance for all input!

Rose

Rose's Kitchen Floor Plan VI

NOTES:

Similar shape and size as our project
clipped on: 06.21.2009 at 12:45 am    last updated on: 06.21.2009 at 12:45 am

Finished! White country Victorian w/ copper and brick

posted by: hollylh on 06.12.2009 at 12:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello all...I have been a lurker and sometimes poster for a while now--I was more active when I was in the design phase, about a year ago. As you can tell from the title this kitchen is eclectic, but it's me. Many many thanks to all the amazing and helpful people here, and especially to arlosmom, mamadadapaige and pirula, whose kitchens were huge inspirations (as will be obvious from the pix!).

I know, I know, you are scrolling down to the pictures anyway, so here it is:

Photobucket

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By no means was this a gut rehab. I liked to call it a tweak, which made DH roll his eyes...we had a lovely kitchen before. However, when we needed to reconfigure the adjoining family room and mudroom, we got to the point where we would have been matching things in the kitchen we didn't love in the first place, so we decided to go for it and fix the main issues as well. The old kitchen was way too dark, the main passageway (by the brick) was too narrow, we needed more storage, and we really wanted a place to eat besides the island.

Before:

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Photobucket
(this was after we had already demoed the wall)

What we did:
--enlarged window
--demo'ed wall which we knew had brick behind it--we were just trying to gain width (we got about 5'') but I also love the look!
--replaced uppers and oven cab and island
--reused island to become new peninsula (we cut down the existing top)and coverted the cabinets in it to drawers
--honed the granite and removed the 4'' backsplash (it couldn't be honed in place anyway)
--kept the old appliances, except for ovens and hood
--painted everything white

Details:

--Ovens--Monogram
--Hood--custom from a local sheet metal shop; innards are Modernaire
--New cabs--Crown Point
--Hardware--Restoration Hardware and Van Dyke's
--Backsplash--4'' V-groove beadboard

I was very worried about the uppers being inset and the bottoms being full overlay...but it bothers me not at all. Also, I felt really, really guilty about painting the cherry, which is why I didn't do it for 9 years (the kitchen was done by the previous owners). But as soon as it was done I didn't look back.

My sweet DS told me, "Mommy, it could be in a kitchen magazine." (They have seen me reading them constantly for a couple of years.) He knows the way to my heart!

Holly

NOTES:

Keep the exposed brick in mind.
clipped on: 06.13.2009 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 06.13.2009 at 12:39 am

My vintage kitchen photos

posted by: arin on 10.24.2006 at 05:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen was finished just over a year ago, but all the details were not wrapped up before my daughter was born - and my hands have been full since then. Recent kitchen drama has brought me back to the board and I figured it was time to share some snaps.
best
arin

vintage wedgewood stove
vintage sink
vintage island and recycled upper cabs from original kitchen
diamond cabinets
rejuvination lighting
marmoleum flooring






NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.10.2009 at 12:01 am    last updated on: 06.10.2009 at 12:01 am

Calculating Window Height (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: buehl on 02.10.2009 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went through this for our window. We had a bay window that was only 22" above the floor. We raised it so we could put our counter into the bay and up to the sill as well. The two side windows open, the middle window does not. It is difficult and you may or may not get it exact...err on the side of slightly higher than lower, though, b/c you can have a very short sill (~1/4" or so) and still have the same look.

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

  • Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)
  • Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you...do you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

  1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?

    • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

      E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

      Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

    • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.
  2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

  3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.

    • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

    • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

  4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.


HTH!

NOTES:

Tips for counter height windows
clipped on: 06.03.2009 at 01:51 am    last updated on: 06.03.2009 at 01:52 am

RE: Kitchen Islands - Lets See Your Pics (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 01.01.2009 at 11:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lets just say I could have been a heck of a lot more creative if budget weren't a concern. Here is what we ended up with which suits our needs very well and was a good deal less $$ than what we originally had drawn.

Photobucket
Photobucket

NOTES:

White kitchen - fridge, stove, sink...
Love it!
clipped on: 06.02.2009 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2009 at 10:46 pm

Planning For Storage (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 05.17.2009 at 12:59 am in Kitchens Forum

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.
  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)
  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

  6. If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.01.2009 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2009 at 11:30 pm

What goes where?

posted by: peace_rose on 06.01.2009 at 12:30 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been reworking the draft of our kitchen layout (thanks everyone!), and have been assessing what's in our current kitchen and trying to find a home for everything on paper. I want to put the right cabinets in the right places. Does anyone have a ready-made list of "what goes where"? Such as:

- Cereal and canned goods go in the pantry
- silverware and glasses near the dishwasher
- potholders go near the stove
- Most appropriate place for the trash can
- best place for storage of cookie sheets, measuring cups, etc.
- etc, etc, etc (Someone, somewhere must have done this before, right? Feel free to mention even the most obvious!)

This is like putting a puzzle together!

I'm sure there's some universals, and some that depend on the particular set-up. Ours is shaping up to be an L-shape with an island.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 06.01.2009 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2009 at 11:14 pm

RE: Reloading the new kitchen, any tips where things should go? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jejvtr on 02.06.2009 at 07:51 am in Kitchens Forum

positano - Good for you! Congrats very exciting

Let's see -
First I made sure dh & kiddies were out while I did this

I used a lower cab next to dw to put kiddie cups, bowls, plates - for their easy access
I used a large drawer nxt to fridge for cereals and kid snacks - again, easy access
-In that same bank of drawers nxt to fridge - top drawer is ziplock bags, saran wraps and cutting boards
- nxt drawer is all tupperware -
I have a hutch type cab above that bank (nxt to fridge) that is what I use as pantry - bread, coffee, peanut butter, crackers etc

Drawers nxt to range on right (I'm right handed) are all pots, mixing bowls, some small appliances, and the utensils
left side of range are - top: Foil, napkins (near table)spice drawer, baking supplies
Upper cabs nxt to range - Oils, vinegar, pasta, canned
goods,

I have a small bank of drawers 14" as you enter kit - that is where cell phones, keys, 1 drawer has a silverware caddy for everyday tools, measuring tape, etc.. paper, envelopes, take out menus etc (this bank has been great!)

The rest are self explan - like everyday dishes, glasses in upper next to dw
-glass upper houses pretty dishes/glasses
- lwer cabs - large items, salad bowls, appliances (crock pot)
Drawers near range dishtowels, microfiber, pot holders

HTH
Good luck!

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clipped on: 06.01.2009 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2009 at 03:14 pm

RE: building a home around the kitchen (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: alaskangirl on 05.29.2009 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

We just did a remodel, redoing our whole main floor. We designed it for our family of 5 kids. One of the different things we did is to include a little computer nook off the kitchen. It has space for two computers, and it has turned out to be a great idea. The space is about 7x5 feet. I have yet to get cabinets and a countertop for the space, so right now we have a desk in there. I can see the computer screens from my kitchen, and I included a pass thru to the kitchen so I can talk to kids while on the computer.

I agree that kids usually will do homework wherever, and tend to spread out a little - one on the couch, one on the computer, one in a bedroom. I think that after being confined at a desk at school most of the day, the kids want space and comfort. So, even though they COULD sit at the island or table for homework, they usually choose a soft perch in solitude.

Also, I think it is possible to make an open dining area more 'formal', so that you get the great floorplan, but still maintain a gorgeous space. I just bought a pile of moulding to do paneled wainscoating in my open dining room, which will really dress up and define the space.

Here's a link to pics, showing our unfinished computer nook area, and how it works with our kitchen space.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to pics

NOTES:

Follow the link to see my dream kitchen!
clipped on: 05.30.2009 at 12:18 am    last updated on: 05.30.2009 at 12:38 am

Please step into my new kitchen layout - feedback please!

posted by: peace_rose on 05.27.2009 at 11:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Heres a draft of our kitchen addition layout, using the IKEA software. I wish it wasnt so bare bones looking, but Im hoping for some feedback on flow and function.

Kitchen Layout - May 27, 2009

We are building a 15x23 addition to house a new kitchen/dining area. We havent even broken ground, so almost everything is a blank slate, but the plumbing needs to stay in the general part of the room where it is now. We know we want a door to the patio, a door to the backyard, and to take advantage of the natural light on the south end of the room.

Our home is a 1945 cottage (post WWII traditional), painted brick exterior, 850 sf + 850 sf in the basement. Current kitchen measures 7x8! What I dislike most is that we are always running into one another, theres not enough storage (in the whole house), I dont have a place to sit down and pay the bills or to stash a mop and bucket. Im hoping the new addition can help alleviate these problems with some careful planning.

Ive been combing BH&G for inspiration. Plan on white shaker style cabinets, oak floors, charcoal formica countertops, vaulted ceiling (using scissor tresses), 2 ceiling fans, sky lights, pendant lighting over the sink and island, and recessed canned lights. We already have a 30" stainless fridge, 30" white range, and will need to purchase an over the range microwave and dishwasher.

The door on the north leads to a 12x15 covered patio. Im thinking that the traffic plan Ive laid out encourages movement to the patio, the dining room and to the back door, but not through the kitchen work zone. At least thats what Im hoping to achieve. I love talking with my children and guests while I prep the food, but I dont want them in my way!!

The Sink Wall overlooks our backyard and garden, so I created a 57"x48" window there. In the NE corner Im thinking of some sort of shelf, or a cabinet flush with the wall, but definitely not a "corner" cabinet. I hate how corner cabinets waste space. Prefer a blind base cabinet below (not a lazy susan!), but am open to other ideas.

Im thinking that a "mud" space in the SE corner would be a great idea.perhaps a bench with a cushion, hooks on the wall, and some nooks and crannies. Theres some space over on the West wall where I may refurbish a 1.5x5 dresser and make it into a buffet table. (These 2 things are low on our list, but Im trying to keep the master plan in mind).

The dining room (south wall) is 5 feet from a chain link fence and neighbors porch, so theres nothing special about the view. However, we are in Denver, and want to take advantage of the natural light but still have privacy/cozy area to gather. Im thinking of elevating the windows about 4 5" above the ground. Longterm vision is to put some shaker style paneling on the walls with a crown-molding shelf at eye level. We have a corner hutch with glass doors that would fit nicely in the SW corner.

As for the island, were considering completing the perimeter of the kitchen first, then building the island when we get a better sense of how much more counter space we need. The island in the floorplan measures 72"x36".

The 105" doorway leads to the current kitchen (its currently an exterior wall that will be taken down). The current kitchen will probably become a wide hallway, or maybe even a long/narrow half bath on the North side. Another option would be to make this area into a message/communication center. Further to the West is our living room.

Heres a list of appliances/kitchen items I use on a regular basis: Bread machine, Kitchen Aid Mixer, Large soup pot, George Foreman, Food Processor, Coffee Maker, blender, flat baking stones, yogurt maker, 20 cookbooks, toaster, pie plates, casserole dishes and computer. Id like to have them mostly out of sight, but easily accessible.

In our extended family, a party with less than 30 guests is "small". I love to cook, we eat together every night, and we plan to stay in this home for a long time. We have 3 kids under 5, and in our tight space everything gets cluttered real fast. I want to take advantage of every square inch! We get one shot to do this right. I really see the kitchen as the soul of our family, a place where memories are made and cherished. Im not trying to create a high-end kitchen but I cant emphasize enough how much we need to get the layout right so it can be the heart of our home. Community, hospitality, simplicity, and generosity are our familys core values.

My husband moonlights as a handyman, so we can do most of the work ourselves. I cant wait to hear what yall have to say!

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clipped on: 05.30.2009 at 12:21 am    last updated on: 05.30.2009 at 12:36 am