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LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

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clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 01:03 pm

Who supplies the granite overhang support

posted by: jams on 07.25.2014 at 04:03 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been trying to read up on countertop overhangs but I'm still confused. Can some one help clarify?

If I have a 12" overhang and my granite is 2cm, do I need extra support?
If I have a12" overhang and my granite is 3cm, do I need extra support?

If my granite is 12-15" and my granite is 2 cm, how much extra support?
If my granite is 12-15" and my granite is 3 cm, how much extra support?

And if I do need support, who supplies them? The cabinet makers? The granite fabricators? Or am I suppose to source it out myself and supply them to...?

I see here on GW that folks brace it with some metal but I'm not sure where to source it and what are the specs and physics behind cantilevers and how to place them.

Most of the KDs I've spoken to just recommend the 12" and say I don't need extra support. But if I wanted, I could and use corbels (which is not the look I'm going for).

One fabricator (as I've only spoken to one so far), says the supports are suppose to be from the cabinet makers and they didn't know what I was taking about invisible metal brackets (partly because I didn't really know what I was talking about and because of a language barrier)

Please help me clarify. Thanks.

Jams

PS I live in Toronto so if you know of a good cabinet maker or fabricator please pass on the info. Thanks again

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clipped on: 11.14.2014 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 11.14.2014 at 01:26 am

RE: Going a bit crazy, waiting to start (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 05.26.2014 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

--Pick wall colors
--Make sure all appliances will be on time and have their install instructions/dimensions on hand for the cabinet makers
--Pick your counter. pick your counter edge
--Pick your backsplash
--Think about your drawer organizers and what will go in each drawer--do you know what will go in each drawer?
--Where are your electrical outlets
--Do you want a Tapmaster or NeverEmpty?
--Have you ordered/purchased your garbage disposal
--Have you picked your hood?
--Pick your handles/knobs
--Automatic close drawers? All those bells and whistles that you have considered--figure it out now whether it's in your budget and you want them
--Flooring?

Make an inventory of ALL your appliances and drawers. Organize yourself so you have no (or limited) surprises when the kitchen is done. For instance: oh my, my food processor doesn't fit the depth of the lazy susan. Figure it all out while you have all your stuff visible, measureable, inventoried.

Super exciting to be starting soon!! Congrats to you! Love school teachers and think they are our unsung heroes. Thank you for teaching our children :)

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clipped on: 11.12.2014 at 03:28 am    last updated on: 11.12.2014 at 03:28 am

White & gray kitchen reveal, lots of pics!

posted by: lcskaisgir on 02.22.2014 at 10:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen is 90% done! Finally!! But is it ever really done? Started around Thanksgiving. Most things were done by Christmas but backsplash and paint were just completed a few days ago. Mostly we used the same foot print as the old kitchen with some minor changes. Mostly just wanted an update to the old white appliances and thermofoil cabinets.

Still to do: fireplace tile, base moldings, window treatments, rug? & chairs?

Things that remained the same: floor, kitchen table & chairs, chandelier over table, disposal, walk-in pantry

Products used:

perimeter cabinets: Shiloh, Charleston door, beaded inset, Polar White

island cabinets: Shiloh, Charleston door, beaded inset, Silas stain w/black glaze

appliances: all Kitchenaid, Pro line (36" counter depth fridge, 30" double convection oven, 24" built-in microwave, 36" cooktop, dishwasher)

hardware: Amerock Lattice (in various sizes)

counter: Calacatta quartzite

sink: Blanco silgranit Diamond 1.5 bowl in cinder (from HomePerfect)

faucet: Danze Opulence

backsplash tile: gray crackle subway and mosaic from Tile Daily

paint color: SW collonade gray

stools: American Heritage Monaco from Wayfair

pendants: crystal chandelier pendant from Great Chandeliers

recessed lights: 6" ecosmart LED

UCL: LED from Priority Lighting (don't know brand)

above cabinet lighting: maxlite LED

hood insert: best (290 cfm)

cutlery insert: woodhollow

Also: plugmolds and replaced pantry door w/solid wood door

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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There is so much in the super susan; blender, toaster, several food processors, huge stock pot, cookie cutters, rolling pins, etc.
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A trim piece still needs to be installed under the counter from the drawers to the wall in the desk area(not sure if it's called a valance or an apron?) photo IMG_9041_zps4b8e6746.jpg

We had a hole drilled in the counter where the TV sits and used this grommet. The outlet and cable jack are down below in the cabinet. We did the same thing in the desk area for the computer and phone. photo IMG_9016_zps4b29abe5.jpg

These gray corbels were supposed to go on my island. They initially sent me the wrong ones. Now that I have the correct ones, I'm not sure if I want to use them anymore. I kind of like the island as is. I would love to find another use for them. photo IMG_9013_zpsc29b23cf.jpg

I had many inspiration photos from both Houzz and Garden Web. I learned SO much from this forum from electrical, to counters, to lighting, to plugmolds. Every photo and comment has been so very helpful. Thank you to everyone who has shared their knowledge. Some mistakes were made and we spent way more than we thought we would, but overall I am very pleased.

This post was edited by lcskaisgir on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 9:17

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clipped on: 11.06.2014 at 08:44 am    last updated on: 11.06.2014 at 08:45 am

Where to buy RTA cabinets online?

posted by: fabfivefigs on 09.06.2014 at 07:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all-
First poster here. We are starting a kitchen remodel soon and have a very limited budget. I've checked out some local places (ikea, and a local cabinet place as well) but am not thrilled at the options available, although in our price range. Looks like the following places have similar prices on what we need in a style that I like (simple all-wood white shaker style):

cabinetgiant.com

shoprtacabinets.com

thertastore.com

Anyone have experiences with these places? Have any other places to recommend?

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clipped on: 09.10.2014 at 06:10 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2014 at 06:16 pm

Is there anything more to be said about shelf liners?

posted by: aliris19 on 06.21.2011 at 04:33 am in Kitchens Forum

OK ...

vinyl is nasty but relatively cheap. Off-gassing a problem? Can get it in clear; even from JoAnn's. Clear won't lose the beautiful new wood you just spent your retirement income on. Muffles sound. Smoothness might not be optimal for stopping slipping, not sure. Comparatively easy to clean.

ribbed plastic. Available at costco relatively cheaply, but not in clear. Ribs allow air to circulate underneath still-wet glassware. Ribs royal pia to clean; hide spills from sight too. Not sure how price compares to vinyl; probably more. I think the ribbed plastic is available in clear elsewhere. May prevent slipping. Muffles sound.

cushy cupboards. Beloved by many. Expensive, sparsely available (why??). Cheapest online by the case. Periodic sales at Dewalts in socal. Anyone know if upper midwest is cheaper? Spongy plastic - offgassing a problem here as well? Easy to clean; impervious. Not clear. BBB might have a rip-off version of this.

cork. Environmentally friendly. Nuisance, relatively fragile. Deadens sound. Probably expensive, most perhaps. I'm guessing pieces rip off which might be annoying and dirty too.

freezer paper. Suggested as cheap, waterproof alternative. Fine in fridge as well.

waffly stuff - almost forgot this. I haven't seen it in water-proof material though. Permits air flow for better drying.

Other alternatives: pimpernel placemats (love that!), paper towel, nothing.

Everyone seems to hate that old stand-by, adhesive contact paper. I loved putting that down.... and I loved the sweet patterns too.

What about spongy plastic that you can buy in large rolls from packing stores I think? Somehow I wound up with tons of it when packing things away a couple years ago and it doesn't seem to have left any residue on plates, etc. It's not the firmest of closed-cell packing material, but pretty dense. How's this differ from cushy cupboards? Denseness? I'm sure it's way cheaper than cushy cupboards (so who's really dense if you shell out so much $$$ for it?)

Anyone have anything to add?

Why can't they make cushy cupboards in clear plastic, with optional ribbing, at a much cheaper price, more widely available? Don't answer that....

You know this process is taking its toll when even this trivial decision becomes oppressive. Fried I am....

Question for cushy cupboard users: do you set wet glassware on it or does it make a seal that would prevent drying underneath the glass?

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clipped on: 02.07.2012 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2012 at 12:22 pm

Where is your faucet? Please include pics!

posted by: somanychoices on 12.15.2008 at 11:09 am in Kitchens Forum

I am going to have a 9" deep, 32" wide (approximately) undermount sink (a Ticor, thanks to recommendations here!) in a pulled-forward 36" cabinet. I am thinking of getting the Kohler Clairette faucet. I also will have a hot/cold water faucet (from Insinkerator), a soap dispenser and a garbage disposal button placed in the counter. I'm wondering whether to center the faucet on the sink with the soap dispenser to the right and the hot/cold water faucet to the left...or to put the faucet to the right of the sink with the soap dispenser next to it (right or left side??) with the hot/cold faucet to the left of the sink. Either way, I'm not sure where to put the disposal button. What did you do? Please share pictures!

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clipped on: 01.23.2012 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2012 at 03:54 pm

Master Bath Towels--What to do with them

posted by: auggie1020 on 11.14.2008 at 02:36 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

I am new to the list. Of course my first post is proabably a bit odd, but... We just built a new house. It came out beautiful with a big master bath. Problem/Question is: What do people do with used towels after showering. My wife and I just drape them over the glass shower enclosure and it looks like a locker room. Basic towel holders always seem to loosen and come off the wall if you use them every day and hang heavy/wet bath towels on them. Just curious, do you guys re-use towels before washing (we do), if so, where do you hang them to dry?

Thanks.

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clipped on: 01.19.2012 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 01.19.2012 at 03:20 pm

When to install backsplash - same day as CT?

posted by: pdxkit on 01.18.2012 at 11:07 am in Kitchens Forum

We are installing the backsplash the same day as countertop is in since our fabricator is installing it as well.

Is this ok timing or should I wait a few weeks/months after the countertop has 'settled'?

Also what join should he be using between the BS and CT?

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clipped on: 01.18.2012 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2012 at 10:04 pm

Kitchen finally done(photos)

posted by: theplayer on 12.28.2011 at 09:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

much longer and much more $$ than expected, but we love it. We wanted 2 colors, stained lowers, painted uppers.
New Venetian Gold granite

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clipped on: 01.17.2012 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2012 at 12:29 pm

Lynn2006, Kitchen Pics and granite story for you

posted by: sidney4 on 12.30.2011 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Lynn, Here are the pics of my kitchen you asked for. The back splash is a work in process. My DH,for some reason, decided to start the project one week into the holiday season and then had to stop because I needed my kitchen back for Christmas. His timing wasn't great but I'll be glad to have it done. I'll post an official reveal when it's all done.

Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

Uploaded from the Photobucket Android App

As for the granite story.The counter is much darker than New Venetian Gold would normally be. I had a beautiful slab
of NVG in my other house and I wanted the exact same granite in my new house. My KD suggested a place that could give me a "real deal" on granite so I drove 2 hours to the fabricator and picked out a primo slab of NVG.I was so excited and couldn't wait to see the final product in my new kitchen. Months passed and still no granite. My builder started to worry that the fabricator would push back the completion date and potentially delay our move ( when we had to be out of our old house). I finally heard back from the fabricator that the slab I had picked out had to be used in another home that had a granite order from the same run. They said I could use the NVG from another slab. All I needed to do was approve an attached photo and they could have my counter top installed in time for my move in date. Here's what I've learned. NEVER SIGN OFF ON A GRANITE SLAB WITHOUT SEEING IT IN PERSON. It was a stupid mistake on my part. I have no one else to blame but myself but I OK'd the slab from a photo. It looked dark but I naively assumed it was my monitor and that all NVG was pretty much the same. It was such a shock when I saw this butterscotch colored granite against my creamy white cabinets. What was even more disturbing was that the original NVG color was visible on the edge of the counter tops. The fabricator later explained that the granite was likely discolored during the polishing process. My builder said he would stand behind me if I wanted to press for satisfaction and everyone here on the forum said I should fight back but the fabricator said I didn't have a leg to stand on. Eventually, I gave in and decided to make the most of it because it was creating a huge riff between my builder and KD both of whom were friends. It actually looks pretty good against the cherry island and I even get compliments on it sometimes. Don't get me wrong, I love the new kitchen but every time I see a nice slab of NVG,I wonder how it might have looked had I gotten the granite I picked out. Sigh.

This is a better shot showing the contrast between the granite and the light cabinets. The NVG I picked out was much lighter with flecks of white that blended well with the perimeter cabs.

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clipped on: 01.17.2012 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2012 at 12:29 pm