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What fig did not perform ,satisfactory for you.

posted by: herman2 on 06.16.2008 at 07:40 pm in Fig Forum

For me,from what i remember,the following varieties,did not perform satisfactory here:
Red Italian
Brunswick
Quarter pounder
Melanzana
White Russian
White Genoa DFIC 30
Brookleen Wht
Dk. Italian
Rebeca
Megaceleste
Gentille
Encanto Brn Turkey
Early Violet
If you are one of the guys that traded cuttings with me,with these varieties,please do not fill offended.
This is my honest opinion about them in my climate!!!!!!

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clipped on: 06.17.2008 at 09:02 am    last updated on: 06.17.2008 at 09:02 am

Figlets,on June -14 - 08

posted by: herman2 on 06.14.2008 at 12:00 pm in Fig Forum

These are the varieties that will ripe for sure in New Jersey Climate.
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clipped on: 06.16.2008 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2008 at 03:11 pm

My Flow Through Bins

posted by: splitsec002 on 04.10.2008 at 08:40 pm in Vermicomposting Forum

Hi all, I'd like to thank you for this forum. I barely found it and
because of this forum I was able to make myself some flow thru bins.
I've been worming for about a year now and visited worm digest and
gardenweb forums but haven't heard about the flow thru's till
recently. Finally got some god pics by wellsworms and decided to make
my own. He asked me to post pics so here they are! They're in the
photo section. I'm going to tell you how I made the bins because they
really are great and cheap to make.

Step 1: First of all you need your actual bin. My first one was made
from a 44 gallon trash can bought at home depot. It was around 35.00.
The 55 gallon drum I got from a friend that just gave to me. I used a
utility knife to cut the opening of the trashcan. It was pretty easy
and only required a few strokes. The 55 gallon drum however needed a
jigsaw with metal/plastic blade to cut the opening.

Step 2: I used threaded rods that were 3/8" thick and were zinc coated
to prevent rust. I don't think rust is a problem but my mom says she
heard that it was toxic in the garden so this is just precautionary. 6
foot rods are 5.00 each and you need 3 to 4 of them depending on what
size bin and how far apart you put the rods. I used a jigsaw with
metal blades to cut the rods to length. Drilled holes in the bin with
3/8" drill bit. Again used the drill to spin the rods through the
holes in the bin because it is a pretty tight fit.

Step 3: Put 6 layers of newspaper on top on rods inside of your bin to
hold castings, worms, and starter bedding. The paper will compost and
you can use a garden rake to scrap off castings when you need it.
Others have suggested 18" of castings from the rods to the top before
you start harvesting. I haven't harvested anything yet because I want
my bin to be almost full before I start harvesting.

Step 4: Add bedding and food scraps on the top and when the castings
is ready you can harvest!

A few words I have to say about this design. I've only had it for
about a month or so but so far I am loving it. I used to have worm
factories (2) but they just don't seem as efficient as these and I
hated harvesting because I had to seperate the worms from castings. My
hope with this design is that once the bins are pretty full that there
will be hardly any worms near the bottom of the bin. Hopefully
harvesting will be easier. Like I said I haven't had this long enough
yet so I can't comment on that. When I dig from inside the bin all the
way to the rods, the castings are pretty compact towards the bottom
and I don't have many worms down there. I think when the bin is full
there will be even less worms for a easier and faster harvest.

I have also noticed that the worms can take much more food than my
worms in the worm factories. I'm not sure why but the food disappears
pretty quickly. I might just have more worms in the new bins compared
to the worm factories. Whatever it is, the food is disappearing fast
and so is the bedding which prompted me to make the 2nd blue 55 gallon
bin. I'm going to try to sell my worm factories off to recoup the cost.

I do not add any water in the bins at all. It seems the open bottom
and closed top give perfect moisture level. There is a lot of water on
the lid when I open it but the worms seem to be thriving so I'm not
adding more paper.

Hope this helps people that want to try a flow thru bin! Btw you can
find 55 gallon bins on craigslist and pennywiser for around 25 bucks.
Cheaper than the trash can I bought at home depot. Some of them have
lids that are removable too so you wouldn't need to cut anything.

Wow that was a long post but after watching American Idol I just felt
like I should "Give back" to the forum members and everything I've
learned.
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clipped on: 05.16.2008 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 05.16.2008 at 10:45 am

RE: Recommend me some heirlooms for next year (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: yardenman on 09.06.2007 at 08:30 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

My choices for next year are (now firm by ordering seeds):

Brandywine/Suddith/Quinsberry
Aunt Gertie's Gold
Tennessee Britches
Cherokee Purple
Prudens Purple
Black Cherry

Maybe Caspian Pink

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 04:07 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 04:08 pm

RE: If you can only plant 6 what would you choose? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: matersingarden on 08.15.2007 at 12:14 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

1. Black Cherry- for being the best
2. Kellogg's Breakfast-for being tasty
3. Aker's West Virginia- for taste and being a deep pretty red
4. Pale Perfect Purple- for being prolific
5. Brandywine Suddent(or German Head)- for the taste and size
6. Amana Grande, or Earl of Edgecomb- for the color and taste
Thats hard to only list six

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 04:06 pm

RE: If you can only plant 6 what would you choose? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: carolyn137 on 08.14.2007 at 09:28 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Aunt Gertie's Gold
Cherokee Green
German Red Strawberry or Reif Red Heart
Black Cherry
Cherokee Purple or Indian Stripe ( strain of CP)
Large Pink Bulgarian, or Omar's Lebanese or Tidwell German

.......with about 50 Honorable mentions. ( smile)

Carolyn

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 04:05 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 04:05 pm

RE: If you can only plant 6 what would you choose? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: habman on 08.13.2007 at 07:17 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Ok I'll give it a try.
These are based on my research. No hands on experience... yet

1) one early : Sophie's choice
2) one late : Brandywine
3) one large : Kellogg's Breakfast
4) one cherry : Sungold
5) one to can/sauce : Opalka
6) one unknown to experiment with : Hawaiian Currant or Cherokee Chocolate

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 04:03 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 04:03 pm

RE: So many tomato varieties how to know which to choose?!? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ardent_learner on 02.28.2008 at 10:00 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Boy, do I know where you're coming from! I'm looking to branch out on all of my veggies but the tomatoes have been hard for me to narrow down as they all sound so darned good. :) This is what I plan to plant this year (by the way I purchase these at parkseed.com and victoryseeds.com). Also, I'm copying and pasting from my Word spreadsheet, so it contains info from the sites, which may or may not be beneficial to you:

Park's Season Starter Hybrid~ 60 days from setting out transplants. F1VT. Determinate. Always grow the first tomato on the block with this super-fast determinate variety! It sets huge yields of juicy-sweet 6-ounce fruits -- and they taste as good as they look! Set plants 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart. Pkt is 30 seeds.

Tomato Sugary~ The Sweetest Cherry Yet!
So bountiful that you may have to prune the plant back in mid-season! 60 days from setting out transplants. Indeterminate. Many Cherry Tomatoes look great but taste like nothing, while others are flavorful but don't have the big, steady yields we all love. Well, award-winning Sugary has it all -- super-sweet flavor, a fun new shape, and huge, huge yields on plants that just keep growing up and up all season! Scoring a full 9.5 on the Brix scale of sugar content, these delicious little 1/2-ounce dark pink fruits are packed with sweetness. This plant is absolutely unstoppable. It sets huge clusters of fruit all season long, and grows so vigorously that you may have to cut it back in midseason just to keep it within bounds! Never fear -- it will keep bearing like crazy!

Park's Whopper~ 70 days from setting out transplants. Indeterminate. Set plants 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart.

Sweet Baby Girl~ 65 days to maturity from setting out transplants. ISI (intermediate short-internode). Our search for the Best Cherry Tomato in the World has come to an end. Sweet Baby Girl Hybrid is hands-down the finest for all kinds of good reasons: 1. It rarely cracks. 2. It grows on space-saving, manageable plants. 3. It yields HUGE numbers of fruit over a long season. 4. It has a great after-picking shelf life. 5. It is the sweetest, best-tasting Cherry Tomato ever! The fruit is small -- about to 1 ounce -- and arises in big clusters on intermediate short internode vines. Now, what this means is that the vines keep producing all season, but the space between each cluster of fruit is much less than on traditional vines. In other words, you don't waste garden space, water, and food supporting a massive vine with widely-spaced clusters of fruit! Sweet Baby Girl's vines just reach about 3 to 5 feet high and 2 feet wide, yet yield like nobody's business. Just how much fruit can you expect from each plant? Well, in our gardens they each offered up TWO POUNDS OR MORE PER WEEK at the height of the season. That's a lot of -ounce fruits! Resistant to Tobacco Mosaic Virus races 0, 1, and 2, Sweet Baby Girl sets fruit in giant clusters, but I recommend picking them individually rather than as a bunch. You'll get each at the height of ripeness that way, and maximize your harvest.

Tomato Marcellino Hybrid~ 73 days to maturity from setting out transplants. Determinate; upright habit. Marcellino has incredible holding power, keeping fruit fresh up to a MONTH after ripening! It's determinate, so it sets its enormous harvest all at once -- dozens upon dozens of clusters of fruit, each with 20 to 25 little tomatoes dangling alluringly! There has simply never been a Tomato of any size and shape with this kind of holding ability. This plant is upright rather than vining, reaching about 5 feet tall and 3 feet wide.

Tomato Better Bush Improved~ 68 days from setting out transplants. ISI (indeterminate short-internodes). If you're looking for an old-fashioned-flavored tomato with the juiciness and distinctive "tang" you remember from vine-fresh tomatoes of the past, Better Bush Improved Hybrid is the best choice. These big, luscious, 4-inch fruits grow very densely on indeterminate 4-foot plants, thanks to shorter internodes. The central stem rarely needs staking (except during those "bumper crop" times!), and this plant begins early in the season and just keeps going! Resistant to Verticillium Wilt and Fusarium Wilt Race 1.

Brandywine (Sudduth Strain)
80 days, indeterminate Potato-leaf plants produce large (fourteen to thirty six ounce fruits) that are oblate in shape and pink in color. Excellent flavor. David Pendergrass sent us the seed. This variety originally is from the Ben Quisenberry collection who reportedly obtained the seed from a Mrs. Doris Sudduth Hill who said that it had been in her family since about 1900.

Black Cherry
65 days, indeterminate This is a new variety that is very productive with cherry shaped fruits that have the dark, purplish coloring of 'Cherokee Purple'. Flavor is wonderful, very rich and sweet.

Red Grape
60 days, semi-determinate This variety is modern and currently very popular in the fresh produce market. The fruits are bright red, weigh about an ounce, and are smaller than most cherry tomatoes ( by inches). Since they are mouth-sized they are perfect for salads and garnish plates. Twelve to sixteen fruits per cluster.

Marianna's Peace
85 days, indeterminate Reportedly a family heirloom from Czechoslovakia dating back to the early 1900s. Potato leaf foliage. Fruit are deep reddish pink, good size weighing around a pound, good sweet / acid balance flavor, very meaty and a shy seeded variety like Brandywine. This variety has been rare, highly sought after since its introduction in about 2001. It is becoming widely available and finally affordable.

Livingstons Favorite - (90 days) Indeterminate, 6 to 10 ounce smooth fruit with exceptional flavor and color. Introduced by Livingston in 1883. Originally developed for canners, they withstood shipping over long distances and had desirable market qualities.

Livingstons Magnus - Indeterminate, potato leaf with six to eight ounce oblate, pink fruit, excellent taste. Introduced by the Livingston Seed Company in 1900.
"Livingston's Magnus is unsurpassed in quality and in the production of fine, large fruits. While well adapted to main-crop planting, it also takes first rank for early market purposes. The form is perfect, uniform, large and attractive; quite deep through from stem to blossom end. The flesh is very firm. A robust grower, with short joints, setting its clusters closer together than most varieties, and is a very heavy cropper. It has broad foliage which prevents sunburn in hot sections. Ripens evenly, does not crack about the stem. For staking up in the open field, as well as for forcing in greenhouses, is fully equal to any for such purposes."

Giant Oxheart
85 days, indeterminate The 1933 catalog description of this 1926 Livingston introduction follows: "Oxheart is truly the giant of all tomatoes. Its attractive shape, large size and excellent table qualities has quickly brought it into deserved popularity among backyard gardeners. Market-growers are finding it in great demand. There is now great rivalry in gardening neighborhoods to see who can grow the finest Oxheart in shape and size. Three pound specimens are quite common. One customer sent us a five pound specimen.
The Oxheart is smooth, thick, tender and almost seedless; frequently showing two inches thick without a seed cavity. The color is pink and it has that delicious mild flavor that every lover of this fruit likes so well. Rich soil adds greatly to its productiveness. Late variety."

So, did I help or hurt? :)

Stacie

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clipped on: 05.15.2008 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 05.15.2008 at 03:56 pm

Breba fig observation and opinion.

posted by: herman2 on 07.05.2007 at 05:51 pm in Fig Forum

In the colder climates as New Jersey,Leaving a breba crop on a fig that has a good main crop,makes the tree be late in maturing the main crop with at least 2,to 4 weeks.This is true even if you only have a handfull of breba on tree and most of them will fall by sommer time or will be very poor tasting or inedible as usually breba is.
I have a brown turkey,that sheded it's one breba fig 3 days ago and suddenly the main crop started growing very fast.
I have a Violette de Bordeaux,that have two dozen fully grown brebas on it right now.
The price to pay is that this VdB.has very few main crop,growing on it.
If by Chance the breba are poor tasting,the main crop will not have time to grow and be still unripe by the time the cold weather come.
So i end up with poor tasting breba that will ripe only.
If i was braking the breba crop in the Spring,i am sure the fig will be full of main crop figs fully grown by now.
In this case they will have enough time to ripe till Fall.
And i will end up with High quality ripe fruits.
So it is my Opinion that BREBA crop on figs with a good main crop,is a waste and not good in the long run for a good harvest.
San Pedro type fig as Desert King are excepted from this situation,because they have only a persistant crop,wich is Breba.
I hope this will Help new Grower,in deciding how to take care of their fig tree!!!

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clipped on: 05.14.2008 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2008 at 09:31 pm