1) Clean with soap and water.
2) Lightly sand, only where needed. (I'm lazy, but the varnish had built up in some places.)
3) Prime with a thin coat of Zinsser Bullseye 123 Deep Base, tinted to match paint color. Let dry for a few hours.
4) Paint with a thin coat of Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd. Do cabinet backs first! Don't paint bottom or top edges. Let dry overnight.
5) Paint fronts. Again, let dry overnight.
6) Hang cabinets. Carefully.
7) Paint bottom/top edges and do any touch-up.
8) Leave them open for as long as you can stand it. This stuff takes forever to cure.

I didn't do two full coats of paint like many people suggested. For one, the Satin Impervo covers amazingly. The dark color helped -- I imagine a light color would require more coats. But also, the thinner the paint, the more it looks like stain. If you glop it on, which I accidentally did in some places, it doesn't look as much like a pro job.

Parchment Faux

This finish will work with any color(s) but to achieve the true parchment look, base color and glaze color should be only 2 to 3 shades different. Toned colors look the best to me, and you don’t have to stick to the traditional yellow tones of parchment. Grayed greens look great, golds, terra cottas – even jewel tones look beautiful in this finish, although parchment will not be the word that comes to mind!

Application tools: I prefer cotton knit (like t-shirts) rags approx. 18" x 12" – no seams – they will show in the wall finish. If you have old white t’s to tear up that’s fine, or they are sold at HD and most paint stores. Do not us color t’s.

Basic Technique : I like a darker glaze over a lighter wall color. So start with your walls based in the lighter of the two shades, use an eggshell finish. You want the glaze to be able to move on the wall a bit but not a lot – semi-gloss is too slippery. Mix your glaze and paint 3 to 1 or 4 to 1 and add extender if you are using latex paint. You need a long open time to get the really soft look of parchment. You will need tight fitting gloves for this and 2 buckets. Mix your glaze in a small bucket (1 gal) and place it inside a big one (5 gal). This cuts WAY down on splatters. You need two rags at a time to work this. Soak one rag with glaze – totally drenched – then carefully keep it within the big bucket and wring out a lot of the glaze. It needs to be wet, but not dripping. Open it up, grab one corner and hold the whole thing over your other hand. Put the end opposite where you are holding into the open palm of your empty hand. Slowly lower it and allow the rag to create its own folds – it should all rest on your open hand, no tails hanging out – this is called your ‘rose’. Try this with a dry rag and you’ll see just what I mean. Take it to the wall and start washing in circles – overlapping – cover an area about 2’ x 3’ irregular shapes – no square edges. With your dry rag (which is in your other hand at all times and scrunched up in much the same way) start patting over the edges of what you just applied and feather them out till they are very soft. Then work the interior of this area in the same way, only don’t soften it as much and leave high and low, dark and light. What you are doing is disguising the circular marks of application and applying the texture of the parchment. Re-do your rose – you probably won’t need more paint till you have done 3 sections – and do the next area. Start adjacent to but not touching what you just worked. Feather your new area back into the old and continue as before.

This is a good finish to do by yourself – you don’t need a partner. Don’t plan on taking a break until you finish one whole wall. There is a brown paper tape that has a light tack on one little strip only. Put this down the corner of the wall you are working towards (sticky part in the corner) and it will protect your next wall from getting smeared while you finish the first. If you do want to do this with someone, make sure you play the up-down game. One of you starts high on the wall and one starts low (same wall right on top of each other) when you get to the middle, the low man goes high, the high man goes low. This way, your different techniques will be thoroughly mixed up on each wall and it will look appropriate.

Terry Cloth Faux

Supplies: Paint
Glaze
2 2-1/2" or 3"chip brushes (can be purchased at Home Depot usually found next to the foam brushes, white bristles natural wood handle about $1 – chip means cheap to me)
Terry rags – can be purchased also at HD – should all be the same otherwise your treatment will change look every time you change rags. Wash & dry before use to remove lint.
Dampen your towels – not wet! – barely damp, and fold into a pad so that all hems are on the inside – you will refold as you work, but try to always keep hems out of your paint – they make lines.

Instructions: Mix your glaze 5: 1 or more glaze to paint. I just did my 28 x 18 kitchen/family room and used 5C glaze 1C paint, and I have close to 2C left – this technique does not use a lot. A standard size backsplash would only need a couple of cups total!

Technique: Use a chip brush and apply fairly random strokes of your mix to the wall in patches. You are going to put a stroke about 5" long, move over and down a few inches, angle a bit and do another stroke, move up and over, stroke again. You aren’t reloading the brush each time – some strokes will have more paint, some less – that’s ok. You want to work in an area of approx 18" but not square – keep it irregular. Very little paint is on the wall – almost like an abstract painting. Now, with your damp terry pad, tap into the edge of one of your strokes and keep tapping as you move the paint towards a bare place. Move in and out of your painted strokes, tapping the pad and moving the paint about. This probably sounds very complicated because there is no visual, but it’s really a very simple technique. You are tapping, pouncing and ever so slightly sliding the paint around, but you should not see any sliding marks – this should look almost stippled. Don’t totally even out the paint you stroked on – leave some areas a bit darker some lighter, but do totally eliminate the brush strokes. Fade your edges out to almost nothing – that makes it easy to blend in the next area. Use your chip brush, move over and up or down, and do it again. Keep moving all around the wall. As long as you always fade out your edges, your areas will blend. For a backsplash, you are obviously only moving sideways not up or down.

Corners, ceiling lines and baseboards (or cabinet/tile lines as the case may be): Load your chip brush tips only – very little paint is required – and gently tap the paint near not in the corner or ceiling. You should have worked your patches close to the corners by this time, but you couldn’t get into them because the pad is too big. Now, with your clean chip brush, tap into the paint you just applied and move it to the corner in small pouncing motions. It should blend into your other areas perfectly. You don’t want to leave your corners or they will look like a halo around each wall and you don’t want them too dark and smeared or it will look like you didn’t know how to handle corners. Corners, and ceiling lines are the give-away on an amateur job – that’s where you need the most patience for any faux finish.

Making a sample first: On a poster board (approx.18 x 24) painted in your base color, paint a vertical swatch of your glaze mix (1 brush width and about 4 or 5 inches long) in the upper left corner, then another in the middle running on an angle as if from 10 to 4 on a clock, then another in the lower right corner kind of horizontal and a small one right above it because you won’t have much paint on your brush by that time. Then put a bit more paint on your brush and put another towards the lower left corner. That's the type of coverage you start with in each area of your wall before you start pouncing with the terry pad. There is really very little glaze applied to the walls. What you are doing is thinning it out and moving it around. Keep varying the angles of the swatches but don't make yourself crazy about it - the distances are approx. and there shouldn't be any particular pattern to it.

Once you try this, you'll see how much the paint will get moved around and you'll know how much you need to apply to cover a given area. Remember it will dry a bit darker. It will also mellow as it dries - what looks harsh when you are done will be fine in the morning.

Not sure if you've checked it out, but there is a great consignment store near the Harbor Court house off of Main Street between Irvine and Newport Beach. They get stuff from all over -- estate sales, model homes, etc. Being a consignment store, it's hit or miss, but I have found many nice things there for good prices.

Breakfast Casseroles

Breakfast /Brunch

B & B Breakfast Casseroles

If anyone is interested, I found a slightly different way of making one of these over at www.bejane.com/headboard/ (paraphrased and adapted here):

In order to create the ideal headboard for your room, the first thing you'll need to do is determine the size and shape it will be. You can either:
1. Use a headboard you currently own
2. Go to any local thrift store and find one to upholster that fits your bed and your style
3. The other option you have is to build your own headboard from scratch with a bit of plywood and a jigsaw
We personally prefer the third option because it allows you to create the exact shape and size you need for your particular room.
If you're creating your own, you can stick to a basic rectangular shape - but if you're up for creating something that reflects you, think outside the box and create any shape you want! For more romance why not add curves? If modern is more your style you could even try a triangle, notched side or sleek tall rectangle.
While a rectangle will be the easiest and quickest to complete, remember any shortcuts you take in choosing your shape will be one you have to live with. This really isn't rocket science so why not create a shape and style you love?!
So, to start you'll need to know a few things about your bed:
1. Width of your bed: The headboard should be slightly wider than your mattress. Don't forget - the padding and foam will add slightly to the width also (usually less than 1"). I suggest you measure your mattress and add 1-1/2" to 2" extra or you can cut it to the exact size.
2. Height of your headboard: This is up to you; first you'll want to figure out the purpose of your headboard. Are you creating it only for décor purposes, or is it also for functional purposes such as for resting against it to read a book or watch TV? If it's for function, be sure you make it tall enough so you can comfortably lean against it without your head hitting the wall!

Go Shopping!
If you're going to build your own headboard, continue on. If you've found a headboard you're ready to reupholster, you can skip down to Step 5.
Store #1: Home Improvement Retailer or Lumber Yard.
For the wood, you can use basic ¼" plywood. Any home improvement retailer will carry this. It is relatively thin and lighter than solid wood. It also comes in large sheets. Make sure you have a trunk or back seat wide enough to handle it too! If you don't most home improvement centers will make 1-2 cuts for free. Hopefully that will help it fit in your car, but make sure you don't cut it any smaller than your basic measurements. If you are going for a basic rectangular shape, the retailer should be able to cut it for you. (if there's no way you can fit the wood in your car, many home improvement retailers rent trucks hourly for a nominal fee so you can get your purchase home!).
JANE TIP: Many people get plywood and particle board confused but it's important to make sure you use plywood. The reason for this is particle board is made with a great deal of adhesive that typically releases fumes until it's fully dry. If you choose to use particle board or find your plywood is giving off odors, you may want to seal both sides with a coat of polyurethane and let it dry fully before getting started. It will need at least 24-36 hours of drying time before getting started on your headboard.
Store #2: Fabric, Foam, Craft or Upholstery Store
1. TIMESAVER: Call the store ahead of time to see what types of foam and batting they carry. You will want the foam to be at least 2" thick to make it comfortable. Have them cut the foam to the exact size of your board. If you are opting for a more decorative shape, you will need to cut the foam at home to the shape you desire.
2. Batting or Fiberfill comes in large rolls and is a thin, white gauze-like substance. The store will cut off what you need. Be sure to add at least 12 inches of batting to the length and width as you will use it to wrap around the foam and board.
3. Decide on your fabric. Keep in mind durability - it's always best to opt for a slightly thicker upholstery type fabric (for strength and you also don't want to be able to see through to the foam). Otherwise, your options are wide open! Just like with the batting,be sure to add at least 12 inches to the length and width of the fabric.
Cut Your Foam
Lay the foam on the ground and place the cut plywood or your "recycled" headboard on top of it. Then trace the shape using a black marker onto the foam. Go ahead and cut the shape out using a utility knife. If you are using a 2-3" foam or greater you may want to use an electric carving knife to cut it.

Cut your Fiberfill
Whether you opted for a basic rectangle or a decorative shape, you'll want to cut the fiberfill with at least 5 to 6 inches of batting to wrap around the foam and plywood.

Where it all comes together
To put you new headboard together you'll need a large, clean, flat work surface (the floor works fine). Here are the steps to follow:
1. Place the fabric on your work surface front side down.
JANE TIP: It's a good idea to iron your fabric prior to completing this portion of the project to remove any wrinkles or creases creating a more professional looking headboard.
2. Place the batting on top of the fabric.(This should be the same size as the fabric.) Lay the foam on top of the batting. Now place the plywood on top of all of it. You should now have all 4 layers sandwiched together. Be sure to line up the foam and plywood, and have plenty of fabric and fiberfill around the edges to be able to pull the two up and around the back of the plywood.
3. Begin attaching the fabric and battingover the back of the plywood and using a staple gun, begin stapling it with 1/4-inch staples every 2 inches.
JANE TIP: Begin by stapling 2 staples into the center of two opposing sides; then do the same in the top and bottom. Now flip the entire headboard, foam and fabric around to see if it is sitting where you would like it to be. If so, flip it back over and staple your way out from the center, alternating from side to side and top to bottom. If not, then just pull the few staples out that you've done and start over. If you are using a patterned fabric, be careful not pull too hard while stapling as it can throw the design off-center
4. Trim excess material and batting with scissors.

Putting it in its Place

The best hardware to secure your headboard to the wall is actually a very simple design. Flush mounts are attached to the back of your headboard and to the wall and simply slide together to create an interlocking and stable mount. After all, you don't want the headboard banging against the wall every time you move!
To install these mounts, first locate the studs on your wall behind where the headboard will be located. Attach the bottom part of the flush mounts to the wall and into the studs as wide as possible within the width of the headboard. Lean the headboard against the wall to mark the location of the receiving mount on the headboard. Take the headboard away and drill the holes for the mounts and attach facing down. Then just lift the headboard onto the wall mounts to secure (you might need a friend to help you). Finally, move your mattress and frame back against the wall and your new headboard to complete the look.
But if you don’t want to mount the headboard to the wall:
you can actually make a frame with legs using 2x3s or something similar, and then have your headboard plywood on the top part, upholster that, and then you can screw/bolt your bedframe into the legs. Just make sure your legs are not out at the edge of hte headboard - ie, make headboard a few inches wider than the bed itself so the legs are sort of hidden from view.
http://dmorgen.blogspot.com/2005/06/how-to-make-upholstered-headboard.html

The way that you create a tufted headboard is the same way you create an upholstered headboard but with a few additions. Once you've finished creating the plywood base for the headboard, then create holes in it (using a 1/2" drill bit and drill) in the places where you would like to have the buttons. Then once you've upholstered the headboard, you will need to cover the number of buttons you will need with fabric (if you plan on using fabric covered buttons-you can get these at your local fabric store or Michaels). Using upholstery thread and an upholstery needle, go ahead and stitch the button on but leave both ends loose on the back side of the headboard. Pull the thread through at least 3 times then once you've done this, it's time to tuft. The way you do this is with either a brad (headless nail) or a few toothpicks. What you'll need to do is to lay the nail or tooth picks across the opening and pull the thread taught, tying it in a knot over nail. Just make sure you take a look at how taught it is on the face of the headboard before you tie the knot as it's really a pain to have to untie it. Then just repeat the process as many times as the number of buttons you have. Good luck!

All it is really is literally drilling small holes in the wood and then getting buttons with "eyes" to thread the buttons with heavy thread(there is actually tufting thread you can purchase!). Make sure to mark with chalk where the holes are so dont make many holes in the fabric. Thread the button, feed the thread thru the fabric, batting, foam. Locate hole and pull it thru the back to the desired amount of tuft. Tie it off like you would tie a shoe and then knot it tight. There you go.

Reposting the pic for reference...

[
Aaaaanyway. Here it goes. There may be a more efficient way of doing it, but my plans changed mid project... so here is how I did it.

I cut 16 12"x12" squares of chipboard. Did a basic upholster on these (same as you would do on a dining room chair) I used a very thin foam.

Then mounted these upholstered squares on a large piece of chipboard (about 4 inches bigger than the 16 squares, but only on the top and the sides. I kept the squares even with the backer board at the bottom)

Once the squares were secure on the backer board, I drilled a hole through the chipboard at the corner of each square. I used the buttons from Joann’s that you can cover with your own fabric (this was probably the hardest part of this project!!!) I strung heave cord through the back of the button, and through the hole in the chipboard, and stapled it to the back.

I then mounted the chipboard panel (with the squares attached) to the wall. Using a simple small drywall anchor and a screw. I am sure there is a way that the unit could be free standing with some modifications.

I took plain pine lumber, mitered the corners, and routed an edge on the inside edge, (similar to what a mirror frame would look like). Again, this trim is only on the top and two sides. I painted it black, and tacked it on the chipboard backer, and filled and touched up the nail holes. Mounting it this way, while making the unit incapable of furniture rearrangement, allows it to be removed fairly easily.

As an added touch, and to keep a chewing puppy from completely devouring the box spring, I built a wooden "bed skirt" frame. This proved to be an excellent addition to the style of this headboard.

I will say, that I will be disassembling this unit with in the next month or so – so if anyone wants "behind the scenes" pics of the construction, I would be happy to take some and post them once I do so.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to email me.

Pigtown Designs - http://pigtown-design.blogspot.com/
Absolutely Beautiful Things - http://absolutelybeautifulthings.blogspot.com/

Mine were early 80's ugly and sallow and tired. Worse than these picture actually. Putting in the Viking in 2000 got me through a couple more years....

...until finally I just darkened them. Didn't strip, just scuffed to break the surface. Cleaned well and layered on General Finishes gels. Wipe on, wipe off. Wait. Repeat. Easy peasy. Been a year and they are holding up fine. New sink, DW and hardware - I'm happy. Except for that dang backsplash decision....

Darkening takes no skill, just time, and about $60 in product. Email me and I will dig out and shoot you the TKO play by play if you want it.

I think dark cabinets would be striking with your other choices.

Here is a link that might be useful: celtic's facelift

You will need:

- a mitre saw or a mitre box w/saw
- a small hand saw or coping saw (a hacksaw will also work)
- Elmer's wood glue
- paint (I used acrylic latex, craft paint and spray lacquer for a gloss finish)
- small nails
- hammer
- drill
- four corner clamps (Home Depot)
- a 1/2" wood chisel (Home Depot)
- four metal mirror clips (Home Depot)
- clear silicone caulk or silicone aquarium sealer

First, buy a set of metal mirror clips. You'll find these in Home Depot in the "Picture Framing" section. They come two to a package. I used 3/8" clips. The size of the clips is determined by the thickness of your mirror glass. Use the smallest you can get that will hold your mirror to the wall. This is the secret to "working around" the plastic clips, LOL.

Remove the plastic clips and replace them with the metal clips. No, wait -- actually, put the metal clips on FIRST and THEN remove the plastic clips, so the mirror doesn't fall off the wall, LOL.

Depending on the size of your mirror, you might want to use mollies with the clips. (My mirrors are resting on backsplashes, so I wasn't too worried about them falling.) If you use mollies, make sure you get the kind that are flush to the wall.

You're using metal clips because they have a much lower profile. This will be important later.

Two clips on the top and two on the bottom should suffice.

Next, measure the mirror and buy your trim. Give yourself about a foot extra on each side, because you'll have to cut it down for the mitered corners.

Make sure the trim you buy is not warped. You can do this by laying the pieces on the floor at the store. The pieces should lie flat on the floor.

NOTE: You are going to paint and assemble the frame BEFORE you put it up.

Paint the trim BEFORE you cut it. When painting long trim pieces, make sure you put a base coat on BOTH SIDES, front and back, even though you are only going to see one side. If you only paint one side, the wood will warp. (I found THAT out the hard way, LOL.) You can do this if you lay the trim on a couple of paint cans as you paint.

When you have the paint and finish the way you want it, carefully measure your mirror. (If you're new at this sort of thing, you might want to make a mockup of cardboard or craftpaper first, to get the measurements exact.) Remember, you want the edge of the glass to fall about halfway under the frame.

Measure and mark the wood, and carefully cut your four pieces, mitering the corners at 45 degrees.

Sand the cut edges till they're smooth. Don't worry about little chips in your paint, you'll touch these up later.

Before you glue the corners, drill small nail holes in the side corners of the two side pieces only. Drill all the way through. (You will put little nails here after the frame is assembled, for added strength and to prevent twisting.)

Lay the four pieces on a flat surface. (I use the floor) Put the corner clamps at each corner, adjusting them until you're satisfied with all four corners.

Now release the corners, one at a time, applying glue to the edges that will join, and return the corners to the clamp, tightening each corner, one at a time, wiping away excess glue as you go.

Leave the frame to dry over night.

In the morning, remove the corner clamps carefully.

Put four small nails into your four nailholes. Countersink the heads, and if they are going to show, fill them.

With fine sandpaper or steel wool, smooth off any flaws. Using an artist's brush, touch up any part of the corners that need to be touched up. Let this dry.

Try your frame onto the mirror. You will see that the frame still doesn't lie quite flat to the mirror because of the clips. Using a pencil, mark the back of the frame where the clips interfere with the frame.

Using a small handsaw and the wood chisel, chip away just enough wood from the back of the frame so that the frame will lie flat to the mirror. This is easier than it sounds... it's a very small bit of wood and you don't have to be too delicate about it because it's on the back of the frame and no one will ever see it.

When you've chipped out your four small bits of wood, the frame should now lie flat to the glass!

Clean the mirror and the back of the frame very well. Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the back of the frame -- not too close to the inner edge, because you don't want the silicone to show in the mirror -- and press the frame to the glass.

Stand there and hold the frame to the mirror for twelve hours.

Okay, not really. This last bit is kind of hard to describe... I contrived several lengths of scrap wood and gallon paint cans as braces to hold the frame pressed to the wall until it cured.

I wish I had pictures of the process, sorry.

I hope I haven't scared anyone off. Let me know if I've been too obscure and I'll try and help.

Good luck and let me know how you do!

If you can't find them in local home centers and electrical supply companies, you can mail order them from azpartsmaster.com - I ordered a few dozen plates a few months ago and the customer service and shipping time were just dandy. There are a few other places online that carry them but azpartsmaster has the best price.

Go to www.tinypic.com. You do not need to open an account or anything.

Click the "Browse" button to find the picture you want to post from your computer.

Select the picture then click "Upload image". After a few moments (depending on connection speed and size of the image) a few tags will appear on the screen.

Simply copy and paste the entire contents of the "Tag" entry into your forum post.

The "tag" entry in the one that begings with:
"(<)a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_ etc.and ends with "(>)"

(There will not be parentheses around the open and closed brackets, but if I don't put them, you can't see the text)

When you do "Preview message" on Gardenweb, the photo will appear in your posting.

Viola, you have posted a picture.

Link to a pic of it in our dining room below. Don't mind the curtains, DH did not "fluff" before the realtor took pics (ugh!).

Here is a link that might be useful: BM Hot Spring Stones

Good luck!

img src="http://InsertThePhotoURLhere.com"

Put a < in the beginning and a > at the end, then when you click "Preview Message" you should see your photo in the post.

This is also how you can insert multiple photos in one post.

HTH!
Leilani

P.S. To get a photo's URL:

1) Go to your online photo.
2) Right-click on it and select "Copy Image Location".
3) Post a message and type the code as described above.
4) Paste your photo's URL (Ctrl+V) to replace the phony one above.

Restoration Hardware to Benjamin Moore Conversion

Atmosphere Blue - Gentle Gray 1626
Butter - no match yet
Butter Cream - Blossom Tint 933
Cafe Creme - Spanish White 943
Celery - Hawthorn Green 379
Creamware - Consentino Chardonnay 247
Latte - Crisp Khaki 234
Lavender - no match yet
Navy - no match yet
Shore - no match yet
Silver Birch - Healing Aloe 1562
Silver Sage - Gray Wisp 1570
Sycamore Green - Moon Shadow 1516
The Right White - Super White
Willow - Mesquite 501 (really close but not spot on)
Butter = Precious Ivory #185

This poultice is only good for an oil stain. Other kinds of stains require different poultices. If you are not sure about the cause of a stain, do not try just anything on it. You might end up setting it. Do some investigating as to the origin of the mark before trying to remove it.

Get a good quality impregnating sealer and seal the stone. If the stone absorbs other liquids too, it might be a good idea to thoroughly clean your tops and seal the whole shebang. Follow the directions on the sealer bottle. Do not allow the sealer residue to dry on the stone, but buff it off after waiting for the manufacturer's suggested time. (sealer rediue can be a bear to remove if left for too long) Some stones need more than one application of sealer too. Wait for 24 hours between sealer applications for maximum efficacy.

You can test for absorption by dripping water on your stone and letting it sit for a while. Blot the spill up. If there are dark marks where the watr lay, the stone needs sealing. If the water beads up, it's OK :)