1. D-shape advantage:
A. more square inches.

2. Pie-cut advantages apply only to base cabs:
A. when you rotate a the lower of two susans, more of the rotated contents are visible and in/out access is easier from above than when a D-shape is rotated.
B. Counter work space seems more efficient and accessible.

David:
I want to echo previous thank you's for starting this thread with such valuable info.

Somewhere there is a thread on GW about contractors who will build super susans to fit. If built to fit (with no more than an inch to spare on each side), they are astonishingly space efficient. Usually contractors use susans which are sometimes much smaller than the max. diameter possible.

Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.

1) Find a long flexible tubing (from LOWS or Home Depot) that fits your dispenser really tight, and put it on the dispenser tube;

2) Drill a hole on the soap bottle cap and stick the other end of the tubing through the cap into the dish soap bottle and use duck tape to tape around the cap and the tubing.

That's it!

I just happend to have a bottle of Down dish soap then and didn't dilute the soap. I have been using this for over two months now, it works great! I never have to pump more than once. Actually I was able to test it without the soap bottle cap on, just stick the tube into the soap bottle and it worked right away. Give this a try, hope it will work for you as it did for me.

Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Kitchen Blogs- Dark Wood

The cost from the cheapest local lighting for the same product (different brand) was $295.

Yours does seem high. Many people here are happy with their Xenons from Lowes and I couldn't bring myself to spend the unnecessary money just to get a brand name for something people won't even see, after all Xenon light is Xenon light whether it's Kichler or Utilitech.

Full disclosure - I work for Pegasus Lighting. The link I have attached to this post is for a blog post I wrote on our blog about my under cabinet lighting. I have pictures of my under cabinet lighting so you can see if they would work for you or not.

Here are some other suggestions that may work for your situation.
- LED rope light
- LED under cabinet task light
- Xenon low voltage light strip
- You could recess puck lights under your cabinet
- Microfluorescent lights (these are very low-profile and we had a customer install these lights on the actual trim piece instead of under the cabinet - so the light was pointing towards the backsplash - it was a very good use of this product)

Good luck with your kitchen!

Here is a link that might be useful: Xenon Low Profile Under Cabinet Task Lights blog post

FYI, specify the newer lampholders if you do get it--the older ones installed by our electrician 3 years ago were terrible (had to jiggle a bunch of them in order for them to light). Kichler replaced all of ours with the newer ones and they work great.

We have no scratches on the laminate. Don't cut directly on it and you shouldn't have issues.

We do slide plates, canisters, etc. around on it. I am not one to baby anything in the kitchen.

I wish the darn thing would scratch because then a remodel would go up in priority. I don't love my counters, but I have to admit they're perfectly servicable and still look nice. They're just not what I *want*.

What things are you concerned about scratching your counters?

kitchen_angst- I'm not sure what you mean by system, but my cabinetmaker made a deep drawer box so the bins would be secure. The dimensions of that drawer box are 15.5" wide by 21" deep by 12"high. I really went to town (literally) looking for the best bins to use for maximum capacity. I wanted the highest with the widest "mouth" that still fit two. These are Rubbermaid model 2806. Funny it took longer to figure these bins out than my backsplash LOL!

We have a narrow doorway coming into the kitchen, and decided not to move it after getting preliminary bids and weighing that against the impact of moving it on our adjacent dining room. So, it stays---and consequently we're trying to keep the aisle (counter-to-counter) in the kitchen 42" wide to keep it from feeling too tight.

To do this, we can either do a traditional counter a certain distance from the door, or we can angle the counter in so that it's longer, but narrower as it approaches the door so that the same aisle width is maintained. Does anyone have an angled counter that they like, or have thoughts on whether this counter space will actually be useful? We assume the base storage in the angle would be next to useless, but it would gain us extra space for uppers to go without looking odd visually.

Reasons to angle: more upper cabinet storage, theoretically a longer counter run, except that it's only 12" deep by the end.

Reasons not to angle: looks awkward, costs more, not yielding much useful base cabinet storage, leaves space for a 12" deep bookshelf at end of run.

In these diagrams, if we go with the rectangular counter we'd make it 39" (minimum run I think would be useful?), but knock the rectangular section down to 36" plus an extra 12" at an angle if we're extending it. We could also, of course, keep the length 39" plus the extra, but the closer in the refrigerator is, the better. The key measurement is that the 25.5" counter must be 60" from the door to keep the aisle 42" wide---the rest of it we can play with.

Any thoughts or suggestions on this? Thanks!!

With angle:
and without:

Closer look at the cabinets and rail.

An even closer look of rail and under cab Zenon lighting.

Jodi-

Best of luck!

Mine are all hardwired in to the same switch(es).

oh yes! ~~> Make sure to tell the electrician if you want them controlled by more than one switch -- at two different doors to the room, for instance.

I wish I'd known about the mounting options AKChicago mentions prior to my own install, since mine are on the back and I do get more direct light on the backsplash than I'd like, giving my DIY tile job something of an inadvertent Vincent Price look... ;-)

Here's a shot of mine newly mounted along back of cab. They're so skinny they're virtually invisible:

My xenon strips do not get hot at all. I believe that is because I chose a style that is open, so the bulbs are open to the air, rather than enclosed with a plastic or glass cover. However, the less expensive xenon strips may all come with a cover, I don't know.

HTH.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.
   
2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
   
3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)
   The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...
   
   • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
     
   • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.
   
   If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.
   • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
     
   • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
     
   • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
     
   • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

• Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
  
• Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
  
• Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
  
• Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
  
• Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
  
• Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
  
• Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
  
• Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

• Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
  
• Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.

In addition, you want the trash next to but not UNDER you - don't have to step back, saving yourself an extra move. Place it on the side you're handed (left for lefties, right for righties) and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to work, leaving the thing pulled out while you work and simply giving it a hip bump back in when you're done. We have this and it's brilliant, love it.

Of course, ideally we'd all have 3 or 4 trash pullouts at various spots in the kitchen ...

PS: I can warmly recommend the design of our trash/recycling pullout, which is optimal for cleaning and stability:

While I was looking it up for you, I noticed that Legrand (they sell wiremold/plugmold) now has something similar. BTW...Plugmold is a brand name and I think Legrand owns it, but I'm not positive. However, Plugmold has become synonymous with "wiremold" or "raceway" type strips....kind of like "Kleenex"...it's a brand name, but it has also become a generic word for tissues.

Anyway, here's were I think my electrician got it:

Task Lighting/Angled Power Strip

Here's what Legrand has...I don't know anything about it, but I thought I'd link it if you want to research it.

Legrand/AL2000 Aluminum Multioutlet System - AL2000-PM

And, here are some older threads... Unfortunately, quite a few pics are no longer showing up :-(

Thread: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc.
Thread: angled plugmold?
Thread: Plugmold sizes??

I don't have any small appliances that sit on my counter full-time, so I wasn't concerned about a "dangling cord". We don't drink coffee or use the toaster regularly.

Atlanta Granite Bolue Eyes

This Old House Galley Kitchen

Country Cream Paint by Pratt and Lambert

Design Graphic 04

Rutherford Kitchen

Schild Hause Kitchens

Google Images

I didn't get them on this website, but they look like this.

Here is a link that might be useful: kichler xenon

My biggest concern I guess is with the blue light from LED's. I really like their energy saving quality though, and the fact that they don't get hot! I've heard xenon can be warm and "heat up" the cabinets attached above...

Please help me make yet another decision!! Thank you!!

Go to the website www.hangmanproducts.com and look for the hardware that's 2 pieces for hanging mirrors; one piece goes on the wall, the other on the headboard, and they fit together (you "hook" the one on the headboard over the one you put on the wall). A brilliant invention! (No, I didn't invent it! Nor do I have a financial role in it.)

Second, the HGTV show "Myles of Style" -- episode about a "Boutique Bedroom" -- showed a very cool, simple upholstered (yes, padded--that's impt for the luxurious, not skimpy, feel!) headboard. She used 3 horizontal panels of a beautiful upholstery fabric in complimentary colors--really beautiful and a simple look. The HGTV site for her specific show has a video of the room (and probably a rerun date for the show itself).

Sorry this doesn't show a tone (this pic was taken to show someone an example of our tile) but it does show a few of our slab drawers. Very please we went with this style.

Here are the directions for posting photos from buehl's post. ;)

First, where are your pictures? If on your computer only, you'll need to upload them somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket.

1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera but get them on disk when they're developed)

3. Resize your pics so they're approx 400x300 (resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar)

4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

5. Find the label that contains the link to the picture

(In PhotoBucket, it's the box labeled "HTML Code")

6. Copy that link and paste it into the "Message" box of a post.

7. When you "Preview" your message, you'll see the picture.

I am extremely surprised you are not happy with maple stain. But then I'm not sure what you expected. If you were looking for a uniform dark finish you will not get that. Not with maple. On the other hand, it does not blotch.

The kitchen cabinets in our home are all stained maple. I've also done things like dressers, headboards, night stands for our use and for our daughter. The stain brings out the grain in the wood, especially nice in curly maple. But the overall result is relatively light. Lighter than oak, for instance.

The reason maple is light colored is that it is almost exclusively sapwood. Cherry, on the other hand, is almost all heartwood. If you were to get maple heartwood and cherry stain it you would have a hard time telling it from cherry.

So what kind of a look are you trying to achieve? Light or dark? Even if you don't stain it, cherry is much darker than maple. Cherry, too, has sapwood. Typically cabinet makers stain cherry so that it all looks much the same when installed. Then you come back five years later and find the heartwood has gotten darker and the sapwood lighter, so you end up with basically dark cherry with light streaks. Some people like that look (not me!).

When I build cabinets for my customer I hand select all the wood. I do not put any cherry sapwood in the outside of the cabinets (though door interiors may have up to 5%). But I can't say if any other cabinet makers do this.

If you want dark and like the cherry color I'd say go for it. I should also point out that most "cherry" cabinets I see for sale are really alder with cherry stain.

On my cooktop side, my cabinets are staggered height and are in 3s...18"x15" + 21"x12" + 18"x15"

The ones on the sink side are 23"x12"

I really like the added space in the 15" deep cabinets and if I had it to do over the 23" ones would be 15" deep as well.

I don't really notice the 3" difference in depth while working at the counters so the fact that my base cabinets are the standard 24" deep hasn't been an issue. However, if the uppers were 6" deeper, then I think you would definitely need to increase the lower counter by 3" to 6".

I highly recommend getting the 15" deep uppers if you can!

Ingredients

* 1 (18.25-ounce) box white cake mix
* 1 (3-ounce) box strawberry-flavored instant gelatin
* 1 (15-ounce) package frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed and pureed
* 4 large eggs
* 1/2 cup vegetable oil
* 1/4 cup water
* Strawberry cream cheese frosting, recipe follows
* Strawberry Cream Cheese Frosting
* 1/4 cup butter, softened
* 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
* 1 (10-ounce) package frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed and pureed
* 1/2 teaspoon strawberry extract
* 7 cups confectioners' sugar
* Freshly sliced strawberries, for garnish, optional

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease 2 (9-inch) round cake pans.

In a large bowl, combine cake mix and gelatin. Add pureed strawberries, eggs, oil, and water; beat at medium speed with an electric mixer until smooth. Pour into prepared pans, and bake for 20 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and cool completely on wire racks.
For the frosting:

In a large bowl, beat butter and cream cheese at medium speed with an electric mixer until creamy. Beat in 1/4 cup of the strawberry puree and the vanilla extract. (The rest of the puree is leftover but can be used in smoothies or on ice cream for a delicious treat.) Gradually add confectioners' sugar, beating until smooth.

Spread frosting in between layers and on top and sides of cake. Garnish with sliced fresh strawberries, if desired.

I recommend building it in...

1. Surround the refrigerator carcass/box with 3/4" flat finished end panels (finished to match your cabinet finish).

   These panels should only be deep enough to cover the sides of the refrigerator carcass, not the doors.

2. Mount an over-the-refrigerator cabinet that's the same depth as the refrigerator carcass/box.

   If you can't get one the correct depth, then take a standard over-the-refrigerator cabinet and pull it forward until it's flush w/the front of the refrigerator carcass. It will look full depth b/c the end panels will hide the fact that there is empty space b/w the back of the shallower cabinet & the wall.

   This cabinet is mounted b/w the two end panels.

When you say the refrigerator is 31" deep...is that the carcass? Carcass + doors? Carcass + doors + handles? If it's the carcass, then the ideal thing would be to place a tall cabinet (like a wall oven or pantry cabinet) next to it that sort of "steps down" the depth b/f you get to the countertop.

Here's a slide show of how we "built in" our refrigerator...

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Build-In a Refrigerator Slide show

Remember, too, that counters are approx 25-1/2" deep (1-1/2" past the cabinets), so your panels will only be 4" deeper than the counter.

My end panels are 26" deep...yours will only be approx 3-1/2" deeper and I don't think they will look ridiculous, assuming you are also putting in a full-depth cabinet above the refrigerator (or at least pulling a standard-depth forward so it looks full-depth).

Honestly, if you can find a refrigerator that's a couple of inches shallower I think it would look better, but I also think that it will be "livable" with the deeper. BTW...counter-depth refrigerators seem to need less air clearance in the back than standard-depth.

For reference, my counter-depth refrigerator's specs are:

Manufacturer's site:
http://www.americanlighting.com/products.cfm?ID=91

One place to buy them:
http://www.csnlighting.com/American-Lighting-LLC-044-12-BK-ALI2110.html

The good thing about low voltage (12v) lighting is that you can run wires in places that you cannot (or should not) run line current (120V). The down side is that you need a transformer, and a place to put it.

The transformer is not large - I installed it into the valance above the sink. From there, I drilled holes into the cabinets and ran all of the wiring inside the cabs for six lights total. My cabs are face frame so there so it was easy to attach the wires inside the frame in a way that they are hidden.

The only drywall work I had to do was to open up the area where the existing single-gang box and switch was and replace it with a double-gang box and switch. The existing switch was for the lighting above the sink and I wanted to have that separate from the controls for the under-cab lights.

Also, these lights can be dimmed - I put a Lutron dimmer switch on mine. I would like to have put in LEDs (cooler, and use less energy) but they cannot be dimmed.

Total cost was about $170 for six lights and the transformer. They look great - having the area under the cabinets lit makes a huge difference. Although I ordered the finished steel to match my kitchen, unless you really look for the lights you don't see them as they are hidden by the cabinet lip.

This year I am giving Five Minute Chocolate Cake in a Mug as gifts for my co-workers. I bought Christmas Mugs at a dollar store and small gift bags....I am going to put the dry ingredients in the bags and then inside the mugs and attach the recipe with decorative ribbons to the mugs. I typed them up on caligraphy paper using a recipe card template. Then printed them out, pasted them to scrapbooking paper, and then laminated them. Sounds like a lot of work.....but it isn't. Here is the recipe:

Five Minute Chocolate Mug Cake

4 TBSP ALL PURPOSE FLOUR
4 TBSP SUGAR
2 TBSP COCOA
1 EGG
3 TBSP MILK
3 TBSP OIL
3 TBSP CHOCOLATE CHIPS (OPTIONAL)
2-3 DROPS VANILLA EXTRACT
1 COFFEE MUG

Add dry ingredients to the mug and mix well with a fork. Add the egg and mix thoroughly. Pour in the milk, oil, and vanilla and mix well, being sure to scrape the edges of the cup to incorporate all the dry ingredients. Add the chocolate chips (if using) and mix again.

Place the mug in the microwave and cook for 3 minutes at 1,000 watts (high). The cake will rise over the top of the mug and then sink down when the microwave is turned off. Allow to cool a little, and tip out onto a plate. Run a knife around the edge if it doesn't slide out easily. Serves 2. Great with ice cream!!

Basically this is scrambled eggs and seasonings inside flour tortillas. They freeze real well. This is very simple but it is our favorite family recipe.

Recipe for 12 tortillas where 2 is a normal breakfast for the appetite of 1 normal person and we usuall eat 3 per person because our appetites are abnormal:

butter - about 2-3 tablespoons (your choice for sauteing)
8 eggs
1 tsp salt
1/2 cup red bell pepper, minced
1 large jalapeno, minced
1/2 medium onion or about 1 cup minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 green onions leaving some green, minced
2 cups (approx) cheddar cheese, greated (more depending..)
1 cup salsa (I use Pace medium picante sauce)
12 flour tortillas (6 or 7 inches diameter)
tin foil to roll up burritos (because they are best cooked in an oven, not microwave)
cilantro, handful of, chopped coarsely, (optional)

===
prepare the eggs by scrambing eggs and salt in a bowl
melt butter in a skillet
saute jalapeno and red bell pepper for about a minute
add regular onion to skillet and saute another minute
add garlic and green onions and saute another minute

Next is the most important part, add the eggs to the veggies in the skillet but DO NOT cook eggs too long.
Be prepared to remove eggs from the skillet and dump back in the mixing bowl, the original one they came from if you can rinse it real quick. Once you can see that all the "runniness" has gone, you want the cooking to stop immediately and the eggs not to overcook.

Assemble burritos in assembly line fashion:

Best if you can clear your counter somewhat to hold:

The bowl of the egg mixture. (doesn't matter if you've let his get cold), stack of 12 tortillas, 1 bowl of the salsa and 1 bowl of the grated cheese. optional: bowl of cilantro. Put the tin foil handy.

Fill one tortilla with 3 tablespoons (or so) of egg mixture, next 2 Tablespoons of salsa, (sprig of cilantro, optional) and last 1 Tablespoon (or more) of cheese sprinkled on top. Roll and put face down on a piece of tin foil about 12 inches long so it will handle another burrito as well, two burritos per tin foil wrapped pkg. Make a second burrito and put it face down on the tinfoil right next to he first one. Wrap so that tin foil covers all sides. Measure out next section of tin foil and make two more burritos, wrapping them also until you finish all 12. (Hopefully, it is obvious that the way you wrap it should be convenient for you. For us, two per "package" is best.)

Freeze or if you want to eat immediately:
bake in a convection oven at 325 for 15 minutes. (Not sure what regular oven should be, someone else will need to convert.)

--Alice

Men's Favorite Casserole

2 lbs. hamburger
1 green pepper, chopped
1 can mushrooms, drained
1 can comato soup
1 can (8 oz) tomato sauce
1 onion, chopped
1 can cream style corn
1 can black olives, drained
8 oz. noodles, cooked
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp pepper

Combine all ingredients in a 9 x 13 pan. Refrigerate overnight. Bake at 350 for 45 min.

Here is a link that might be useful: plugmold type strip

Zodiaq is a little different than laminate. Zodiaq is a
quarts rock and chemical material that is melted
together at a high temp to form one solid peice of stone.
It is heavy like granite but does not have the care issues.
So I am told. It can look similar to a granite stone but
you won't have a seam or few seams. Here is the Dupont Web
site that will explain all this far better than me.

http://www2.dupont.com/Zodiaq_Global_Landing/en_US/index.html
Quartz can be the same price as Granite.

Lamnate has come a really long way. It is not a solid
suface like Zodiaq, Quartz, Hi-Mac or Corian, but for the
price this is not a bad counter option. Laminate has
brands called WilsonArt or Formica. A few more too.
This product is layers put together to make a surface but
there are seams. It has come a long way in the glueing
process so seams can be practically invisible.

Here are some pictures of Formica (brand)Since the post
asked for photos of Laminate I thought I would post
these. If you want some other pics please ask. i am
Happy to share.

~boxerpups

WilsonArt (Laminate) called Smokey topaz

Formica (laminate not solid surface)
called Indian Slate. this looks so much like a granite.

Formica

Formica. Look at the edge. It looks like solid surface
but this is all laminate. Not our mothers orange laminate
from the 80s.

Yes it is Formica. Can you believe it? For me this
is stunning. Okay it is not the white you wanted in Zodiaq
but it is lovely. 1/2 the price too.

Formica again

WilsonArt a laminate like Formica

Formica by CarolinaKitchen Cabinetry designs

This is Zodiaq the solid quartz surface that is heavy
like granite and more expensive than laminate.

Zodiaq a solid surface that is expensive but lovely.

Lastly you may want to check out Corian which
is a surface that is inbetween Granite and Laminate.
Corian is a brand name by dupont there is also a brand
name called LG Hi-Mac. For some this is a great product
but it can be pricey too. It is a solid surface with
no rock like quartz particles in the making. I thnk
you can see this in person at Lowes or Home Depot.
Here is a link to Hi-Mac
http://www.lghi-macs.com/photo-gallery.html

Hi Mac

LG HI Mac

Ingredients:

• Egg, fresh, 1 large ( 0.09 ¢)
  
• Water ¼ cup
  
• Sour Cream, 3 tbsp ( 0.16 ¢)
  
• Olive Oil, 3 tbsp ( 0.24 ¢)
  
• Granulated Sugar, 3 tbsp ( 0.09 ¢)
  
• Flour, white, 2 1/8 cup ( 0.23 ¢)
  
• Yeast, ½ tbsp ( 0.01 ¢)
  
• Cheddar cheese, 8 oz ($1.50)
  

Total $ 2.32 or 0.19¢ per bun

I use bread maker to make the dough and I usually make double the dough at one time, as I have 2lb bread machine.

Once the dough is done, preheat the oven to 350 °. Roll the dough out to about 9" by 13".

Cover the dough with shredded cheddar cheese (I used extra sharp). Roll the dough into jellyroll and cut it to 12 pieces.

Spray pan with oil and put the buns into it.

Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Enjoy.

Here is a link that might be useful: for nutritional info, check ou the link

This second one using the flash makes the wood appear lighter, but in reality it tends to always look like the first photo.

See the thread below about them...

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors

Anyway I have 48 and he has 100 of the 3 piece one we don't need. They can be mounted 2 ways. 1. drill a hole in the shelf the size of the piston and push in the piston, 2. mount the whole assembly. Here are pictures of both.
You can have them for what I paid, $1.25 ea. If interested send me a private email.

I say if dark cabinets are what really catch your eye...go for it. If not, you may always wish you did.