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RE: Did you make any mistakes in your new kitchen? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: annkh on 05.20.2014 at 10:51 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm glad I'm not the only one with a land line!

My electrician told me about the greatest invention ever - a hot phone jack, that has power right in the jack, so I don't have to run a cord from the phone to an outlet!


clipped on: 05.21.2014 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 05.21.2014 at 09:30 am

RE: Undermount sinks: flush or reveal? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dibdot on 05.13.2014 at 11:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

@badgergal - thanks for your input! My gut says that flush is the way to go in terms of maintenance, I have slight reservations about whether it will be easier to chip (especially as my hubby does all the handwashing - have nightmares about cast iron pots and the big wok!) but in reality the difference is hopefully not that great.


clipped on: 05.14.2014 at 10:56 am    last updated on: 05.14.2014 at 10:57 am

RE: What questions should I ask the cabinet installer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jellytoast on 03.14.2014 at 03:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sure. Ask him for references and ask to see some of his work.

There are also other people who do cabinet installs, so you aren't limited to using the installer that Lowe's referred you to.

What do you mean, "it does not include hinge installation"?


clipped on: 03.14.2014 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2014 at 06:12 pm

RE: What size trash can can you fit in a 15" space? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: feisty68 on 03.12.2014 at 01:59 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is a link that might be useful: 15


clipped on: 03.14.2014 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2014 at 05:19 pm

Advantages/Disadvantages of D-cut & Pie-cut susans (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Bellsmom on 02.21.2013 at 10:38 am in Kitchens Forum

I prefer pie-cut susans for base cabs, D-shaped ones for wall cabs. Here is why:

1. D-shape advantage:
A. more square inches.

2. Pie-cut advantages apply only to base cabs:
A. when you rotate a the lower of two susans, more of the rotated contents are visible and in/out access is easier from above than when a D-shape is rotated.
B. Counter work space seems more efficient and accessible.

I want to echo previous thank you's for starting this thread with such valuable info.

Somewhere there is a thread on GW about contractors who will build super susans to fit. If built to fit (with no more than an inch to spare on each side), they are astonishingly space efficient. Usually contractors use susans which are sometimes much smaller than the max. diameter possible.


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 01:08 pm

RE: GD air switch - InSinkErator, Mountain Plumbing or ? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Ginny20 on 02.21.2013 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Another option is a fiber optic switch from Waste King. The flange comes in various finishes, including chrome. It's pretty much the same as an air switch, but the gasket is sealed, so no water can go down. They are more expensive than ISE. I saw an ISE online for about $64, and these are more like $100. Two caveats: they are meant to plug in, not be hard wired, but my GC was able to convert it. Also, they are designed for a smaller hole - 3/8"- than can be easily drilled in granite. You need to have a 1" hole drilled, then the 1 1/4" switch can be glued to the counter with clear silicone.

Despite the fiasco I had trying to figure out how to install mine, I do love it now.


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 12:09 pm

RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: lee676 on 02.19.2013 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Cree's 4" and 6" LED disk lamps that look to all the world like standard recessed lighting, but are so thin and cool-running they don't need to be installed in a recessed housing can, just a slim electrical junction box, like the one holding up your surface-mounted ceiling light. Allows recessed lights to be installed in places they couldn't fit before because ductwork or other obstructions got in the way.

Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 11:43 am    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 11:43 am

RE: Over the fridge cabinet options (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kris_ma on 02.14.2010 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

If the items were seldom used, you could do the drawer, I decided to borrow other's ideas here and had my DH install a piano hinge and ball catches to make the space accessible for storage of stuff (e.g. placemats, platters..) that really wouldn't fit anywhere else. It's on my top 10 favorite things about the new kitchen list for sure -- very happy with it.

over fridge storage

Hidden Storage over fridge


clipped on: 02.15.2010 at 06:08 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2010 at 06:08 pm

RE: What did you have to have, but ended up not using or repurpos (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: sara_in_philly on 02.15.2010 at 09:48 am in Kitchens Forum

andyman -- I hope you can see this. Don't give up the soap dispenser yet! A couple of months ago, I was searching a place to buy the Never MT and came to an old thread about home-made Never MT (can't find the thread now), I followed the steps and it worked! Here is what I did:

1) Find a long flexible tubing (from LOWS or Home Depot) that fits your dispenser really tight, and put it on the dispenser tube;

2) Drill a hole on the soap bottle cap and stick the other end of the tubing through the cap into the dish soap bottle and use duck tape to tape around the cap and the tubing.

That's it!

I just happend to have a bottle of Down dish soap then and didn't dilute the soap. I have been using this for over two months now, it works great! I never have to pump more than once. Actually I was able to test it without the soap bottle cap on, just stick the tube into the soap bottle and it worked right away. Give this a try, hope it will work for you as it did for me.


clipped on: 02.15.2010 at 04:37 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2010 at 04:38 pm

RE: What to do with a 15' wide tall cabinet? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: remodelfla on 02.13.2010 at 05:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Why not make it a base cab with uppers. You could use it as a charging station for cell phones (inside the drawers) and then do the uppers with glass for a pottery collection. Added bonus is a small frig landing space.


clipped on: 02.15.2010 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2010 at 03:33 pm

RE: Show me your 'dark wood' kitchen! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dmwbcc on 02.11.2010 at 12:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi, I have found Finished Kitchen Blog to be helpful. I put the link below. You can search by different categories.

Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Kitchen Blogs- Dark Wood


clipped on: 02.11.2010 at 12:43 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2010 at 12:44 pm

RE: Under Cabinet LIghts - Dimmer? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: buffalotina on 02.10.2010 at 07:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Yes, I have dimmers on all my kitchen lights, including the undercabs which are line voltage xenon. I can operate the undercabs from the entry door and the door to the dining room. I have the Diva Maestro dimmers so you can dim from two locations. I find I dim them quite often and often work with them on half because the full is not always necessary. They are great for mood lighting and a night light effect when dimmed. Highly recommend!


clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 12:32 pm

RE: Pictures of wall where frig is recessed (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: marcy96 on 02.08.2010 at 10:12 am in Kitchens Forum

We also recessed the outlet into the side stud.
Here's mine:



clipped on: 02.08.2010 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 02.08.2010 at 05:03 pm

RE: Cost of Undercabinet Lighting?? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: needsometips08 on 02.04.2010 at 05:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

We paid about $124 for ours from Lowes. They are xenon and this is to cover 8 and 1/4 feet of cabinetry.

The cost from the cheapest local lighting for the same product (different brand) was $295.

Yours does seem high. Many people here are happy with their Xenons from Lowes and I couldn't bring myself to spend the unnecessary money just to get a brand name for something people won't even see, after all Xenon light is Xenon light whether it's Kichler or Utilitech.


clipped on: 02.05.2010 at 11:13 am    last updated on: 02.05.2010 at 11:13 am

RE: Need under cabinet lighting help ASAP (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pegasuslighting on 02.04.2010 at 10:01 am in Kitchens Forum

I have the same situation. My cabinets have a 3/4-inch trim. I used low-profile xenon under cabinet lights in my kitchen. While the lights are not completely hidden they are "hidden enough" for me.

Full disclosure - I work for Pegasus Lighting. The link I have attached to this post is for a blog post I wrote on our blog about my under cabinet lighting. I have pictures of my under cabinet lighting so you can see if they would work for you or not.

Here are some other suggestions that may work for your situation.
- LED rope light
- LED under cabinet task light
- Xenon low voltage light strip
- You could recess puck lights under your cabinet
- Microfluorescent lights (these are very low-profile and we had a customer install these lights on the actual trim piece instead of under the cabinet - so the light was pointing towards the backsplash - it was a very good use of this product)

Good luck with your kitchen!

Here is a link that might be useful: Xenon Low Profile Under Cabinet Task Lights blog post


clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 03:27 pm

RE: Need under cabinet lighting help ASAP (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.04.2010 at 09:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Check out Kichler's Linear Lighting (tracks/wiring with clip-on lampholders/bulbs). You can get all the different parts (tracks, wiring, clips, holders....) in either black or white. It's very low-profile and gives nice, even lighting.

FYI, specify the newer lampholders if you do get it--the older ones installed by our electrician 3 years ago were terrible (had to jiggle a bunch of them in order for them to light). Kichler replaced all of ours with the newer ones and they work great.


clipped on: 02.04.2010 at 01:54 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2010 at 01:54 pm

RE: Laminate Owners (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: meangoose on 02.03.2010 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I have dark gray laminate with red and taupe speckles - it is matte, not glossy. We've been in this house for about 6 years, and the counters were here before us (but not sure how long).

We have no scratches on the laminate. Don't cut directly on it and you shouldn't have issues.

We do slide plates, canisters, etc. around on it. I am not one to baby anything in the kitchen.

I wish the darn thing would scratch because then a remodel would go up in priority. I don't love my counters, but I have to admit they're perfectly servicable and still look nice. They're just not what I *want*.

What things are you concerned about scratching your counters?


clipped on: 02.03.2010 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 12:51 pm

RE: Hands-free opening for trash pull-out (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: faleash on 02.02.2010 at 11:50 am in Kitchens Forum

annesv- yes, you can still give a little tug and it will open easily

kitchen_angst- I'm not sure what you mean by system, but my cabinetmaker made a deep drawer box so the bins would be secure. The dimensions of that drawer box are 15.5" wide by 21" deep by 12"high. I really went to town (literally) looking for the best bins to use for maximum capacity. I wanted the highest with the widest "mouth" that still fit two. These are Rubbermaid model 2806. Funny it took longer to figure these bins out than my backsplash LOL!


clipped on: 02.03.2010 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 12:30 pm

Is an angled counter useful, or just awkward space?

posted by: artemis78 on 02.01.2010 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are slowly but surely making progress on our kitchen layout, and have hit a glitch with counter decisions.

We have a narrow doorway coming into the kitchen, and decided not to move it after getting preliminary bids and weighing that against the impact of moving it on our adjacent dining room. So, it stays---and consequently we're trying to keep the aisle (counter-to-counter) in the kitchen 42" wide to keep it from feeling too tight.

To do this, we can either do a traditional counter a certain distance from the door, or we can angle the counter in so that it's longer, but narrower as it approaches the door so that the same aisle width is maintained. Does anyone have an angled counter that they like, or have thoughts on whether this counter space will actually be useful? We assume the base storage in the angle would be next to useless, but it would gain us extra space for uppers to go without looking odd visually.

Reasons to angle: more upper cabinet storage, theoretically a longer counter run, except that it's only 12" deep by the end.

Reasons not to angle: looks awkward, costs more, not yielding much useful base cabinet storage, leaves space for a 12" deep bookshelf at end of run.

In these diagrams, if we go with the rectangular counter we'd make it 39" (minimum run I think would be useful?), but knock the rectangular section down to 36" plus an extra 12" at an angle if we're extending it. We could also, of course, keep the length 39" plus the extra, but the closer in the refrigerator is, the better. The key measurement is that the 25.5" counter must be 60" from the door to keep the aisle 42" wide---the rest of it we can play with.

Any thoughts or suggestions on this? Thanks!!

With angle:
and without:


clipped on: 02.02.2010 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2010 at 05:46 pm

RE: Pictures of light rail trim --help please (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 12.14.2009 at 08:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Light rail from a distance. We went with a very simple rail.

Closer look at the cabinets and rail.

An even closer look of rail and under cab Zenon lighting.



Install towards the center of cabinet, not towards the rear
clipped on: 12.15.2009 at 01:10 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2010 at 05:57 pm

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buffalotina on 12.18.2009 at 01:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I installed CSN lighting Xenon strips. The light is lovely from them. They do get a tad warm when on high for a long time, but nothing ridiculous. I want to add though that even with a hi/lo toggle I used a dimmer and that way you are able to dim to a considerably lower level than the toggle does. Also, you don't have to go to each light individually to dim them. I second the suggestion to put a switch at more than one location: I have switches controlling the undercabs and the main lights at both the main entry to the kitchen and the exit door to the dining room so I can dim/control the lights as I got to the dinner table to join guests.

Best of luck!


clipped on: 12.18.2009 at 11:30 am    last updated on: 12.18.2009 at 11:30 am

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: circuspeanut on 12.17.2009 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Me too! I got the Portfolio xenon strips from Lowes on super sale last year. They don't need a dimmer, you can dim each one separately with its toggle (I suspect mine are the exact same as Maria's). I think mine are the 18" strips, one per cabinet (I only have three uppers, each in a different spot). Great warm clear light, and they do get a little warm but honestly not too bad; they're not melting the baking chocolate in the cabinet above.

Mine are all hardwired in to the same switch(es).

oh yes! ~~> Make sure to tell the electrician if you want them controlled by more than one switch -- at two different doors to the room, for instance.

I wish I'd known about the mounting options AKChicago mentions prior to my own install, since mine are on the back and I do get more direct light on the backsplash than I'd like, giving my DIY tile job something of an inadvertent Vincent Price look... ;-)

Here's a shot of mine newly mounted along back of cab. They're so skinny they're virtually invisible:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 12.18.2009 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 12.18.2009 at 11:28 am

RE: Help on small, flatscreen TV in kitchen - location of outlets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gibby3000 on 12.16.2009 at 05:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

My outlets are in the back of an adjacent cabinet. There is a grommet opening in the side of the cabinet and cables run from TV and phone through that opening to the outlets. I also have rechargeable items inside the cabinet so lots of outlets and stuff inside there. Here's what the arrangement looks like from the surface and on the inside.




clipped on: 12.17.2009 at 04:13 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2009 at 04:13 pm

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: akchicago on 12.17.2009 at 12:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know anything about the xenon lighting specifically at Lowe's, but I wanted to give you a few tips about xenon undercabinet lighting. I do not like pucks. They leave circles of light on your countertop, while strips shed more even light. Also, I would get strips that are hardwired, not plug-in, so that you don't have unsightly cords and plugs, and since your electrician will be doing the electrical work anyway. Also, the strips should be installed toward the front of your upper cabinets, not toward the rear. If you install the strips toward the rear, you will mostly be shedding light on your backsplash, rather than on your countertop. Installation toward the front will light your countertop. I would also have the switch for the xenons be a dimmer switch. The dimmer costs a bit more than a regular switch, about $45, but it is nice to have the flexibility to dim or brighten the light depending on whether you want task lighting or mood lighting. Note that low-voltage xenons require dimmers specifically for low-voltage lighting. They are easily available at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

My xenon strips do not get hot at all. I believe that is because I chose a style that is open, so the bulbs are open to the air, rather than enclosed with a plastic or glass cover. However, the less expensive xenon strips may all come with a cover, I don't know.



clipped on: 12.17.2009 at 01:13 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2009 at 01:13 pm

RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored, basement, dining room, etc.
  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)
    The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...
    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


clipped on: 12.16.2009 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 12.16.2009 at 10:49 am

RE: Trash Pullout Under Sink? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: circuspeanut on 12.14.2009 at 10:19 am in Kitchens Forum

I'd exhort you to place the trash next to, not under, the sink. Depending on your configuration, the trash might need to be accessible to someone else while you're standing there at the sink with chicken-dripping fingers, leading to annoyance and divorce proceedings. (Although I recall that this is definitely a one-man kitchen, nevertheless, unless you have a second trash option, this is a real consideration.)

In addition, you want the trash next to but not UNDER you - don't have to step back, saving yourself an extra move. Place it on the side you're handed (left for lefties, right for righties) and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to work, leaving the thing pulled out while you work and simply giving it a hip bump back in when you're done. We have this and it's brilliant, love it.

Of course, ideally we'd all have 3 or 4 trash pullouts at various spots in the kitchen ...

PS: I can warmly recommend the design of our trash/recycling pullout, which is optimal for cleaning and stability:


clipped on: 12.14.2009 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 12.14.2009 at 04:01 pm

RE: show me your plugmold (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 12.11.2009 at 04:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

At the time I got it (early 2008), I think this was a specialty item and I think only Task Lighting sold it. IIRC, someone back then said they don't sell to homeowners, just electricians and, maybe, Contractors. My electrician got it.

While I was looking it up for you, I noticed that Legrand (they sell wiremold/plugmold) now has something similar. BTW...Plugmold is a brand name and I think Legrand owns it, but I'm not positive. However, Plugmold has become synonymous with "wiremold" or "raceway" type strips....kind of like "Kleenex"'s a brand name, but it has also become a generic word for tissues.

Anyway, here's were I think my electrician got it:

Task Lighting/Angled Power Strip

Here's what Legrand has...I don't know anything about it, but I thought I'd link it if you want to research it.

Legrand/AL2000 Aluminum Multioutlet System - AL2000-PM

And, here are some older threads... Unfortunately, quite a few pics are no longer showing up :-(

Thread: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc.
Thread: angled plugmold?
Thread: Plugmold sizes??


clipped on: 12.11.2009 at 06:17 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2009 at 06:17 pm

RE: show me your plugmold (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 12.11.2009 at 11:22 am in Kitchens Forum

I have "angled plugmold"'s completely hidden by the light rail. As to having to "... stand on your head to find the holes to plug stuff in...", no, you do not. I'm 5'10" and have no problems just glancing under the cabinet to see where the outlet is and reaching under to plug the item in. "Angling" the strip makes it easier to use.

I don't have any small appliances that sit on my counter full-time, so I wasn't concerned about a "dangling cord". We don't drink coffee or use the toaster regularly.


clipped on: 12.11.2009 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2009 at 02:43 pm

RE: Kitchens without island, any pictures (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boxerpups on 12.10.2009 at 02:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some kitchens without islands.
Mostly galley but it gives you a differnt look without
an island. I love them.

Atlanta Granite Bolue Eyes

This Old House Galley Kitchen

Country Cream Paint by Pratt and Lambert

Design Graphic 04

Rutherford Kitchen

Schild Hause Kitchens

Google Images


clipped on: 12.11.2009 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 12.11.2009 at 10:55 am

RE: xenon or led undercab lighting?? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: buffalotina on 12.09.2009 at 07:39 am in Kitchens Forum

I have CSN lighting xenon strip lights and they are excellent. Like others have said, the quality of the light from them is really nice. They are very bright so I don't need them on full most of the time and I can dim them from a wall switch.


clipped on: 12.09.2009 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 12.09.2009 at 11:32 am

RE: xenon or led undercab lighting?? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: positano on 12.09.2009 at 05:55 am in Kitchens Forum

I have kichler xenon that you can dim and love them! The light is beautiful, and doesn't get hot at all.

I didn't get them on this website, but they look like this.

Here is a link that might be useful: kichler xenon


clipped on: 12.09.2009 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 12.09.2009 at 11:32 am

xenon or led undercab lighting??

posted by: ktrud on 12.08.2009 at 01:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I thought I was set on LED for my undercab lighting (Lowes option), but now I'm not sure...I really don't want a blue-ish light on my counters. I just saw some GE brand LED lights that Home Depot now sells, and they cast a very white light.

My biggest concern I guess is with the blue light from LED's. I really like their energy saving quality though, and the fact that they don't get hot! I've heard xenon can be warm and "heat up" the cabinets attached above...

Please help me make yet another decision!! Thank you!!


clipped on: 12.09.2009 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 12.09.2009 at 11:28 am

RE: make a headboard (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pammyfay on 04.08.2008 at 10:44 am in Furniture Forum

Still there?
2 tips: FIrst, I don't think you really just want to prop it up against the wall. It's going to shift, wobble and just won't look "right." There are pieces of hardware you can get to adhere it to the wall that won't leave huge holes in the wall (in case you are a renter or tend to change your mind).

Go to the website and look for the hardware that's 2 pieces for hanging mirrors; one piece goes on the wall, the other on the headboard, and they fit together (you "hook" the one on the headboard over the one you put on the wall). A brilliant invention! (No, I didn't invent it! Nor do I have a financial role in it.)

Second, the HGTV show "Myles of Style" -- episode about a "Boutique Bedroom" -- showed a very cool, simple upholstered (yes, padded--that's impt for the luxurious, not skimpy, feel!) headboard. She used 3 horizontal panels of a beautiful upholstery fabric in complimentary colors--really beautiful and a simple look. The HGTV site for her specific show has a video of the room (and probably a rerun date for the show itself).


clipped on: 12.07.2009 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2009 at 06:05 pm

RE: drawers: slab vs 5 piece fronts (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: theanimala on 12.06.2009 at 08:13 am in Kitchens Forum

We have Shiloh inset cabinets, painted softwhite (island is stained espresso), Homestead doors with slab drawers. We went with the slab door because we wanted large pulls and if we had the shaker style on the drawers we would need a smaller handle to fit inside.

Sorry this doesn't show a tone (this pic was taken to show someone an example of our tile) but it does show a few of our slab drawers. Very please we went with this style.



clipped on: 12.07.2009 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2009 at 12:22 pm

RE: Please Help me post Pics (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gocelts330032 on 11.15.2009 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had the same problem at first too. Read the new to kitchen blog post.

Here are the directions for posting photos from buehl's post. ;)

First, where are your pictures? If on your computer only, you'll need to upload them somewhere on the web for the rest of us to see them. I upload pictures to PhotoBucket.

1. Open an account w/PhotoBucket or other photo hosting site.

2. Take a picture using a digital camera (or film camera but get them on disk when they're developed)

3. Resize your pics so they're approx 400x300 (resize keeping the same proportions so they don't get distorted...i.e., don't specify a specific size, use %-ages or similar)

4. Upload your pictures to your photo account

5. Find the label that contains the link to the picture

(In PhotoBucket, it's the box labeled "HTML Code")

6. Copy that link and paste it into the "Message" box of a post.

7. When you "Preview" your message, you'll see the picture.


clipped on: 12.07.2009 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2009 at 12:09 pm

RE: Accommodating a laptop in the kitchen? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: nhbaskets on 12.07.2009 at 10:41 am in Kitchens Forum

We wanted a place for our laptop, printer, and file cabinet in the kitchen. Our KD came up with a cabinet located at the end of our raised peninsula that accommodates everything. The top drawer is my hubby's junk drawer. The middle is the file cabinet, and the bottom is where our printer is. We have both an island (where we normally eat) and a peninsula. The peninsula is where the laptop sits most of the time. When we have a crowd over, it stores nicely on the shelf located when the printer is housed. The laptop and printer are both wireless.

Peninsula with file drawer and printer cabinet


clipped on: 12.07.2009 at 10:54 am    last updated on: 12.07.2009 at 10:54 am

RE: Dark Maple or Cherry Cabinets? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rumble_s on 12.03.2009 at 08:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Boy this last post has got me stumped. I build custom kitchen cabinets; I build them, my wife stains and finishes them, and I install them. All our cabinets are hand finished. No spraying.

I am extremely surprised you are not happy with maple stain. But then I'm not sure what you expected. If you were looking for a uniform dark finish you will not get that. Not with maple. On the other hand, it does not blotch.

The kitchen cabinets in our home are all stained maple. I've also done things like dressers, headboards, night stands for our use and for our daughter. The stain brings out the grain in the wood, especially nice in curly maple. But the overall result is relatively light. Lighter than oak, for instance.

The reason maple is light colored is that it is almost exclusively sapwood. Cherry, on the other hand, is almost all heartwood. If you were to get maple heartwood and cherry stain it you would have a hard time telling it from cherry.

So what kind of a look are you trying to achieve? Light or dark? Even if you don't stain it, cherry is much darker than maple. Cherry, too, has sapwood. Typically cabinet makers stain cherry so that it all looks much the same when installed. Then you come back five years later and find the heartwood has gotten darker and the sapwood lighter, so you end up with basically dark cherry with light streaks. Some people like that look (not me!).

When I build cabinets for my customer I hand select all the wood. I do not put any cherry sapwood in the outside of the cabinets (though door interiors may have up to 5%). But I can't say if any other cabinet makers do this.

If you want dark and like the cherry color I'd say go for it. I should also point out that most "cherry" cabinets I see for sale are really alder with cherry stain.


clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 12:44 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 12:44 pm

RE: How deep are your upper cabinets? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: marthavila on 12.03.2009 at 09:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine are 12" and one of the bigger regrets of my remodel. If only I had realized that 12" is not deep enough for some modern day dishware! What also amazes me is that between the cab company KD, my project manager-KD and the GC, not one of these "experts" even asked if I might want to consider deeper uppers and why! Sigh. By all means, if you haven't already ordered your cabs, go with a minimum of 13" uppers!


clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 11:42 am

RE: How deep are your upper cabinets? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: buehl on 12.03.2009 at 07:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a mix of 12" & 15" deep.

On my cooktop side, my cabinets are staggered height and are in 3s...18"x15" + 21"x12" + 18"x15"

The ones on the sink side are 23"x12"

I really like the added space in the 15" deep cabinets and if I had it to do over the 23" ones would be 15" deep as well.

I don't really notice the 3" difference in depth while working at the counters so the fact that my base cabinets are the standard 24" deep hasn't been an issue. However, if the uppers were 6" deeper, then I think you would definitely need to increase the lower counter by 3" to 6".

I highly recommend getting the 15" deep uppers if you can!


clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 11:38 am

RE: LOOKING for: seeking any good strawberry cake recipes (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: araness on 08.24.2009 at 06:42 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

This is a Paula Deen one that I love...


* 1 (18.25-ounce) box white cake mix
* 1 (3-ounce) box strawberry-flavored instant gelatin
* 1 (15-ounce) package frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed and pureed
* 4 large eggs
* 1/2 cup vegetable oil
* 1/4 cup water
* Strawberry cream cheese frosting, recipe follows
* Strawberry Cream Cheese Frosting
* 1/4 cup butter, softened
* 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
* 1 (10-ounce) package frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed and pureed
* 1/2 teaspoon strawberry extract
* 7 cups confectioners' sugar
* Freshly sliced strawberries, for garnish, optional


Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease 2 (9-inch) round cake pans.

In a large bowl, combine cake mix and gelatin. Add pureed strawberries, eggs, oil, and water; beat at medium speed with an electric mixer until smooth. Pour into prepared pans, and bake for 20 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and cool completely on wire racks.
For the frosting:

In a large bowl, beat butter and cream cheese at medium speed with an electric mixer until creamy. Beat in 1/4 cup of the strawberry puree and the vanilla extract. (The rest of the puree is leftover but can be used in smoothies or on ice cream for a delicious treat.) Gradually add confectioners' sugar, beating until smooth.

Spread frosting in between layers and on top and sides of cake. Garnish with sliced fresh strawberries, if desired.


clipped on: 12.01.2009 at 06:19 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2009 at 06:19 pm

RE: Getting a sorta-high-end look with a regular ole fridge (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 11.21.2009 at 01:37 am in Kitchens Forum

I think a refrigerator that has been "built in" looks much nicer than one that's just hanging out there...there's less of a jarring difference in the materials, etc.

I recommend building it in...

  1. Surround the refrigerator carcass/box with 3/4" flat finished end panels (finished to match your cabinet finish).

    These panels should only be deep enough to cover the sides of the refrigerator carcass, not the doors.

  2. Mount an over-the-refrigerator cabinet that's the same depth as the refrigerator carcass/box.

    If you can't get one the correct depth, then take a standard over-the-refrigerator cabinet and pull it forward until it's flush w/the front of the refrigerator carcass. It will look full depth b/c the end panels will hide the fact that there is empty space b/w the back of the shallower cabinet & the wall.

    This cabinet is mounted b/w the two end panels.

When you say the refrigerator is 31" that the carcass? Carcass + doors? Carcass + doors + handles? If it's the carcass, then the ideal thing would be to place a tall cabinet (like a wall oven or pantry cabinet) next to it that sort of "steps down" the depth b/f you get to the countertop.

Here's a slide show of how we "built in" our refrigerator...

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Build-In a Refrigerator Slide show


clipped on: 11.30.2009 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2009 at 05:54 pm

RE: Expensive kitchens looking dated.... (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: wolfgang80 on 11.24.2009 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think about this subject all the time as I ponder a kitchen renovation. What I've gathered: First, if you see it on the show Spice Up My Kitchen, it's already out of date or very close to it.
Second, it's hard to pick individual items that will make an entire kitchen look dated but here are some that I've found (IMHO):
1. Granite except for the plainest monotone slabs. It may always be beautiful to look at as a standalone object, but busy granite already dates a kitchen.
2. Cabinet doors that are not slab front or Shaker style will be the first to need updating.
3. Pendant lights above an island. I haven't figured out how to avoid this one as I'm not a fan of recessed lights either.
4. Curvy mid-grade appliances in either white, black, or stainless. These have looked the same to me for 10 years, so when I see them in a kitchen, even a new 50K kitchen, the room looks dated already. You have an odd juxtaposition of understated, hand crafted, furniture-like wood cabinetry and techy, glitzy, and cheap looking appliances. These kitchens look dated to me the day they're done.
4. Backsplashes that "pop" or are needlessly creative. This includes but is not limited to rope borders, mosaic pictures, punches of colour, and almost anything created by a "local artist."
5. Tile floors (not including saltillo tile floors in the right Spanish style house). Almost any kitchen I see or go into with tile floors automatically looks dated. Hardwood floors are timeless.
6. Too many upper cabinets.
7. Microwave ovens on prominent display, especially OTR.
8. Valances above kitchen windows. The more exposed glass in a kitchen, the better it will age.


clipped on: 11.24.2009 at 05:12 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2009 at 05:13 pm

RE: Beuhl -- help with 'building in' frig (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 11.23.2009 at 02:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Based on the measurements you list, 29-1/2" sounds correct. However, I would not cut the end panel until you have the refrigerator and you can place it and measure the exact depth needed. I would order at least 33" deep end panels to be sure you will have enough depth.

Remember, too, that counters are approx 25-1/2" deep (1-1/2" past the cabinets), so your panels will only be 4" deeper than the counter.

My end panels are 26" deep...yours will only be approx 3-1/2" deeper and I don't think they will look ridiculous, assuming you are also putting in a full-depth cabinet above the refrigerator (or at least pulling a standard-depth forward so it looks full-depth).

Honestly, if you can find a refrigerator that's a couple of inches shallower I think it would look better, but I also think that it will be "livable" with the deeper. BTW...counter-depth refrigerators seem to need less air clearance in the back than standard-depth.

For reference, my counter-depth refrigerator's specs are:

  • Case (carcass/box) Depth Without Door: 24-1/8"
  • Back air clearance: 1/2"

    In total, my refrigerator carcass ended up being 26" from the back wall, so my end panel is 26" deep.

  • NOTES:

    clipped on: 11.23.2009 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2009 at 12:52 pm

    RE: Adding under cabinet lighting - Tips/Howto? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: vate on 10.19.2009 at 09:30 am in Kitchens Forum

    I used low voltage xenon lights under my cabinets:

    Manufacturer's site:

    One place to buy them:

    The good thing about low voltage (12v) lighting is that you can run wires in places that you cannot (or should not) run line current (120V). The down side is that you need a transformer, and a place to put it.

    The transformer is not large - I installed it into the valance above the sink. From there, I drilled holes into the cabinets and ran all of the wiring inside the cabs for six lights total. My cabs are face frame so there so it was easy to attach the wires inside the frame in a way that they are hidden.

    The only drywall work I had to do was to open up the area where the existing single-gang box and switch was and replace it with a double-gang box and switch. The existing switch was for the lighting above the sink and I wanted to have that separate from the controls for the under-cab lights.

    Also, these lights can be dimmed - I put a Lutron dimmer switch on mine. I would like to have put in LEDs (cooler, and use less energy) but they cannot be dimmed.

    Total cost was about $170 for six lights and the transformer. They look great - having the area under the cabinets lit makes a huge difference. Although I ordered the finished steel to match my kitchen, unless you really look for the lights you don't see them as they are hidden by the cabinet lip.


    clipped on: 11.23.2009 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2009 at 12:04 pm

    RE: Anyone have 'angled' cabinets? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: momto3girls on 11.19.2009 at 10:04 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have an angled base cabinet next to my fridge. We have a full depth fridge with extended panels on either side. We extended the depth of the angled cabinet to match it. It's just a little shallower to allow for counter overhang. The cabinet is 18" wide and is pretty spacious. I store some serving bowls, oversized plates and water bottles in it.
    We have a regular 18" wall cabinet above it. I have two angled cabinets (12" x 12") on another wall. I think they would have been too small for the space, plus they're only good for misc. items like vitamins, medicine, etc.


    clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 12:55 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 12:56 pm

    RE: recipe: looking: for recipes for food xmas gifts. (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: peannut40 on 11.12.2008 at 10:01 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum


    This year I am giving Five Minute Chocolate Cake in a Mug as gifts for my co-workers. I bought Christmas Mugs at a dollar store and small gift bags....I am going to put the dry ingredients in the bags and then inside the mugs and attach the recipe with decorative ribbons to the mugs. I typed them up on caligraphy paper using a recipe card template. Then printed them out, pasted them to scrapbooking paper, and then laminated them. Sounds like a lot of work.....but it isn't. Here is the recipe:

    Five Minute Chocolate Mug Cake

    1 EGG
    3 TBSP OIL

    Add dry ingredients to the mug and mix well with a fork. Add the egg and mix thoroughly. Pour in the milk, oil, and vanilla and mix well, being sure to scrape the edges of the cup to incorporate all the dry ingredients. Add the chocolate chips (if using) and mix again.

    Place the mug in the microwave and cook for 3 minutes at 1,000 watts (high). The cake will rise over the top of the mug and then sink down when the microwave is turned off. Allow to cool a little, and tip out onto a plate. Run a knife around the edge if it doesn't slide out easily. Serves 2. Great with ice cream!!


    clipped on: 11.17.2009 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2009 at 04:22 pm

    RE: Favorite family recipe? (Follow-Up #93)

    posted by: alicesRestaurant on 03.20.2005 at 06:12 pm in Once-a-Week Cooking Forum

    Breakfast Burritos

    Basically this is scrambled eggs and seasonings inside flour tortillas. They freeze real well. This is very simple but it is our favorite family recipe.

    Recipe for 12 tortillas where 2 is a normal breakfast for the appetite of 1 normal person and we usuall eat 3 per person because our appetites are abnormal:

    butter - about 2-3 tablespoons (your choice for sauteing)
    8 eggs
    1 tsp salt
    1/2 cup red bell pepper, minced
    1 large jalapeno, minced
    1/2 medium onion or about 1 cup minced
    3 cloves garlic, minced
    3 green onions leaving some green, minced
    2 cups (approx) cheddar cheese, greated (more depending..)
    1 cup salsa (I use Pace medium picante sauce)
    12 flour tortillas (6 or 7 inches diameter)
    tin foil to roll up burritos (because they are best cooked in an oven, not microwave)
    cilantro, handful of, chopped coarsely, (optional)

    prepare the eggs by scrambing eggs and salt in a bowl
    melt butter in a skillet
    saute jalapeno and red bell pepper for about a minute
    add regular onion to skillet and saute another minute
    add garlic and green onions and saute another minute

    Next is the most important part, add the eggs to the veggies in the skillet but DO NOT cook eggs too long.
    Be prepared to remove eggs from the skillet and dump back in the mixing bowl, the original one they came from if you can rinse it real quick. Once you can see that all the "runniness" has gone, you want the cooking to stop immediately and the eggs not to overcook.

    Assemble burritos in assembly line fashion:

    Best if you can clear your counter somewhat to hold:

    The bowl of the egg mixture. (doesn't matter if you've let his get cold), stack of 12 tortillas, 1 bowl of the salsa and 1 bowl of the grated cheese. optional: bowl of cilantro. Put the tin foil handy.

    Fill one tortilla with 3 tablespoons (or so) of egg mixture, next 2 Tablespoons of salsa, (sprig of cilantro, optional) and last 1 Tablespoon (or more) of cheese sprinkled on top. Roll and put face down on a piece of tin foil about 12 inches long so it will handle another burrito as well, two burritos per tin foil wrapped pkg. Make a second burrito and put it face down on the tinfoil right next to he first one. Wrap so that tin foil covers all sides. Measure out next section of tin foil and make two more burritos, wrapping them also until you finish all 12. (Hopefully, it is obvious that the way you wrap it should be convenient for you. For us, two per "package" is best.)

    Freeze or if you want to eat immediately:
    bake in a convection oven at 325 for 15 minutes. (Not sure what regular oven should be, someone else will need to convert.)



    clipped on: 11.17.2009 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2009 at 01:21 pm

    RE: Favorite family recipe? (Follow-Up #62)

    posted by: arandygail on 10.12.2002 at 08:44 am in Once-a-Week Cooking Forum

    This is great and it freezes well. I generally put it in 2 -- 8" pans so that I have one to freeze. You can add to or delete from about anything in this recipe and it is fine.

    Men's Favorite Casserole

    2 lbs. hamburger
    1 green pepper, chopped
    1 can mushrooms, drained
    1 can comato soup
    1 can (8 oz) tomato sauce
    1 onion, chopped
    1 can cream style corn
    1 can black olives, drained
    8 oz. noodles, cooked
    1 1/2 tsp. salt
    1 tsp pepper

    Combine all ingredients in a 9 x 13 pan. Refrigerate overnight. Bake at 350 for 45 min.


    clipped on: 11.17.2009 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2009 at 01:02 pm

    RE: Need Plugmold HELP (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: smiling on 11.16.2009 at 05:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here is another brand. This one lets you put switches and ports on the strip, too. HTH

    Here is a link that might be useful: plugmold type strip


    clipped on: 11.16.2009 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2009 at 05:39 pm

    RE: Post pics of your laminate counter, please (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: boxerpups on 11.16.2009 at 09:41 am in Kitchens Forum

    I have a few pictures but I am not sure if you want
    pics of Zodiaq Quartz or Laminate Formica...

    Zodiaq is a little different than laminate. Zodiaq is a
    quarts rock and chemical material that is melted
    together at a high temp to form one solid peice of stone.
    It is heavy like granite but does not have the care issues.
    So I am told. It can look similar to a granite stone but
    you won't have a seam or few seams. Here is the Dupont Web
    site that will explain all this far better than me.
    Quartz can be the same price as Granite.

    Lamnate has come a really long way. It is not a solid
    suface like Zodiaq, Quartz, Hi-Mac or Corian, but for the
    price this is not a bad counter option. Laminate has
    brands called WilsonArt or Formica. A few more too.
    This product is layers put together to make a surface but
    there are seams. It has come a long way in the glueing
    process so seams can be practically invisible.

    Here are some pictures of Formica (brand)Since the post
    asked for photos of Laminate I thought I would post
    these. If you want some other pics please ask. i am
    Happy to share.


    WilsonArt (Laminate) called Smokey topaz

    Formica (laminate not solid surface)
    called Indian Slate. this looks so much like a granite.


    Formica. Look at the edge. It looks like solid surface
    but this is all laminate. Not our mothers orange laminate
    from the 80s.

    Yes it is Formica. Can you believe it? For me this
    is stunning. Okay it is not the white you wanted in Zodiaq
    but it is lovely. 1/2 the price too.

    Formica again

    WilsonArt a laminate like Formica

    Formica by CarolinaKitchen Cabinetry designs

    This is Zodiaq the solid quartz surface that is heavy
    like granite and more expensive than laminate.

    Zodiaq a solid surface that is expensive but lovely.

    Lastly you may want to check out Corian which
    is a surface that is inbetween Granite and Laminate.
    Corian is a brand name by dupont there is also a brand
    name called LG Hi-Mac. For some this is a great product
    but it can be pricey too. It is a solid surface with
    no rock like quartz particles in the making. I thnk
    you can see this in person at Lowes or Home Depot.
    Here is a link to Hi-Mac

    Hi Mac

    LG HI Mac


    clipped on: 11.16.2009 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 11.16.2009 at 10:26 am

    RE: Cookalong #13 ------- CHEESE (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: punamytsike on 07.12.2009 at 04:45 pm in Cooking Forum

    These are my son's favorite buns - cheese buns that he calls irresistible and addictive LOL



    • Egg, fresh, 1 large ( 0.09 )
    • Water cup
    • Sour Cream, 3 tbsp ( 0.16 )
    • Olive Oil, 3 tbsp ( 0.24 )
    • Granulated Sugar, 3 tbsp ( 0.09 )
    • Flour, white, 2 1/8 cup ( 0.23 )
    • Yeast, tbsp ( 0.01 )
    • Cheddar cheese, 8 oz ($1.50)

    Total $ 2.32 or 0.19 per bun

    I use bread maker to make the dough and I usually make double the dough at one time, as I have 2lb bread machine.


    Once the dough is done, preheat the oven to 350 . Roll the dough out to about 9" by 13".


    Cover the dough with shredded cheddar cheese (I used extra sharp). Roll the dough into jellyroll and cut it to 12 pieces.


    Spray pan with oil and put the buns into it.


    Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Enjoy.


    Here is a link that might be useful: for nutritional info, check ou the link


    clipped on: 11.13.2009 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2009 at 01:06 pm

    RE: question on dark cabinets... (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: katienic on 11.12.2009 at 06:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Yes, they were custom built.
    The cabinet maker did also say that the dark stain is difficult to get even on maple, but he did a marvelous job. I seem to recall he mentioned that mine turned out much better than the previous kitchen he did, so I gather he felt he had become even more proficient in applying the stain.
    Here are a couple of photos.


    This second one using the flash makes the wood appear lighter, but in reality it tends to always look like the first photo.
    pantry doors- bevel


    clipped on: 11.13.2009 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 11.13.2009 at 11:42 am

    RE: Are soft close DOORS an option with Crestwood cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: buehl on 11.12.2009 at 10:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I added mine after-market...much less expensive! They wanted something like $50/cabinet and I purchased the dampers at $2.95/door after the fact. They are very easy to install and work for frameless, full overlay, and partial overlay. B/c I have full overlay, I bought the ones for "overlay" doors.

    See the thread below about them...

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors


    clipped on: 11.13.2009 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 11.13.2009 at 11:29 am

    RE: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: larrylwill on 06.16.2008 at 06:39 pm in Kitchens Forum



    clipped on: 11.13.2009 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 11.13.2009 at 11:27 am

    RE: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: larrylwill on 06.16.2008 at 12:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    inkycrab: I bought closers for myself and my cabinet maker had me buy some for him. When he got the cabs finished he decided he liked the way the other design mounted on his frames better. So he ordered several hundred for himself and his brothers business. He claim's they like these better than the Blums. I have never seen a Blum so I can comment. He put the ones with wings on my cabs, which are the ones he prefers. There the same except the mounting. The mounting screws get covered with the piston so I thought they would look better.

    Anyway I have 48 and he has 100 of the 3 piece one we don't need. They can be mounted 2 ways. 1. drill a hole in the shelf the size of the piston and push in the piston, 2. mount the whole assembly. Here are pictures of both.
    You can have them for what I paid, $1.25 ea. If interested send me a private email.




    clipped on: 11.13.2009 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 11.13.2009 at 11:26 am

    RE: question on dark cabinets... (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: organic_sprite on 11.12.2009 at 03:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have very dark cabinets and I love them. I think the key is to balance them out with other elements. Make sure you have good lighting, including undercabinet lights. Also make sure the countertop doesn't make the cabinets look too dark. I went with a calcutta marble and it looks fantastic. The inside of our cabinets and the shelving is light cherry colored so the interior of the cabinets is not too dark. Our flooring is a natural stained white oak and I have one wall that has no upper cabinets at all. It all adds to the openness of the kitchen. People said the same thing to me about the color (especially people who had those terrible dark cabinets from the 70s). As far as the dust issue...I do dust them more than I did my other cabinets, but its not a big deal at all.

    I say if dark cabinets are what really catch your eye...go for it. If not, you may always wish you did.


    clipped on: 11.12.2009 at 04:55 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2009 at 04:55 pm

    RE: Koch Cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: notadesigner on 11.09.2009 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I was ready to post the same thing later tonight. My kitchen designer mentioned them as well. I am 90% sure I will use them. I was going to use maple but since maple and cherry cost the same I am going with natural cherry. Blum soft close is a standard as well on all drawers. I had picked out Showplace at first but for the same price I get cherry AND the blum soft close. The cabinet people are coming to my home tomorrow to do a final measure before I order. I am going to drill them a little more about the company. When I search for locations that sell Koch cabinets I do notice its a lot of small towns so I figure maybe they are a small mom and pop company that maybe can't compete with Kraftmaid, etc but still do a fine job.
    I have read customer complaints from almost every cabinet company anyway so I figure if that's the route I'm taking I can risk it from an unknown company as well as from a well known one! :)


    clipped on: 11.12.2009 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2009 at 03:49 pm