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Can I do a full kitchen for 13,000?

posted by: sumnerfan on 10.16.2010 at 10:50 am in Kitchens Forum

We've been talking about doing our kitchen forever, but the money just wasn't there. Yesterday DH informed me that we had 13,000 dollars we could use to renovate our kitchen. We would need new cabinets, counter tops, rewiring, and the plumbing moved, thankfully we already had the tile for our floor and will do the install DIY so the material costs will be minimal. As for appliances, we just got a new fridge, we are shopping for a new dishwasher because we hate ours, and I could keep my stove if needed until we saved enough to get the one I really want (love the electrolux.) We would also like to move the primary entrance to the kitchen (if possible). Can this be done for 13,000? I'm just not sure and I'm not exactly sure where to being? Do I start with a contractor and have them look at the structural changes or do I start by getting some cabinet quotes? My head is spinning becuase I want to do this right, I want to make sure we get what we want and I want it to be done right (no we'll change countertops in a few years). My kitchen is approximately 14x20 and it's a very long L.

So what do you think? Can this be done (and btw IKEA cabinets and laminate countertops are out) and if so where do I start?

Thanks for listening and any advice.

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clipped on: 12.19.2010 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 12.19.2010 at 11:50 am

How do I instantly play a Netflix movie on my TV?

posted by: michelle_phxaz on 11.06.2010 at 06:35 pm in Computer Help Forum

We have Netflix, and many choices you can play instantly on your TV through your computer. How do I do this?

We have two computers, a desktop that can't be moved to the livingroom for obvious reasons and an HP Mini 1000 that is a small laptop.

We have a Panasonic flat screen that is practically new so it will have all the connections on it, but I am not savvy to how to wire stuff to the TV.

Please tell me what cords/wires I need for this, and exactly where they go from the (probably small) computer to the TV, or do I need a 50 foot cord to get it off the main computer?

Thank you so much for any help you can give!!!

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clipped on: 11.21.2010 at 07:30 am    last updated on: 11.21.2010 at 07:30 am

New Line of Frameless Cabinets at Costco?

posted by: cass62 on 11.05.2010 at 01:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Last I knew, (about a year ago) Costco only carried the All Wood brand of cabinets with limited choices on finishes and few options.

It appears that they are now carrying a line of frameless cabinetry, with many nice features and available options, albeit still fairly limited on finishes. They are calling the line "Xpressions" and there is an additional line called "Xpressions Plus" with more available features like automatic drawer openers.

Is anyone here at GW familiar with these cabinets? They claim they are made by a company with 26 years in the business, in Canada, using materials sourced in North America.

I'm intrigued and would like to know what to compare them to. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Here is a link that might be useful: Frameless Cabinets at Costco

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clipped on: 11.13.2010 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 11.13.2010 at 10:32 am

Anyone with experience with Costco cabinets

posted by: brenjun on 08.12.2010 at 02:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just found out that Costco has 25% off some of their cabinets. You measure the kitchen with their telephone help and then the cabinets are shipped to you. Has anyone had this experience? I was planning to remodel next summer so this is jumping the gun a little, but if it is a good deal it might be worth it. Anyone with experience with Costco cabinets?

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clipped on: 09.20.2010 at 06:49 am    last updated on: 09.20.2010 at 06:49 am

Kitchen Islands - Lets See Your Pics

posted by: cookpr on 12.31.2008 at 08:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Searched and could not find a massive thread devoted to ALL islands, any shape, color, size or form.

Planning a kitchen for a new construction and want to see what all you creative people came up with.

Lets see those islands!! The more pics, the better!!

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clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 08:27 am    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 08:28 am

organizing lower drawers

posted by: mtv20 on 05.22.2010 at 09:36 am in Kitchens Forum

How will I be able to organize items in my lower drawers? I have opted for all lower drawers as recommended by people on this very forum, but now I am thinking my items will get shoved around in the drawers, things like small oil bottles (YIKES!) and other items that need to be upright. How do I handle this? Or am I better off with cabinets with rollouts?

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clipped on: 05.23.2010 at 10:40 am    last updated on: 05.23.2010 at 10:40 am

A New Take on the Revolving Corner Cabinet....

posted by: lee676 on 05.18.2010 at 04:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are at least a half-dozen types of corner base cabinets that try to make the space inside accessible, with revolving round shelves behind a diagonal door, revolving pie-slice shelves behind a two-panel hinged door, a two-panel door that's attached to the shelves and swings around with them, and sliding shelves that move from the blind corner when the door is opened being the most common solutions.

But I've never seen anything quite like this before:

The entire round butcher-block top revolves with the cabinet, and the interior lights up when opened. Neat!

Has anyone here seen/used these, and do you know where I can get one?

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clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 08:25 pm

Laminate Countertops - am I crazy

posted by: splais on 05.07.2010 at 10:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, need some input, this is driving me crazy.

I have a farely large amount of kitchen countertop space. right now it is ALL (counter & backsplash) in those old 6" white tiles and I hate the look.

I am actually thinking about redoing the countertops with one of the high-end laminates because it's all I can afford right now and I'm really getting tired of looking at all the white tile. I'm not selling the house until I die in about another 20-40 yrs so that is not an issue.

Soooo - am I crazy to think about going from the tile to laminate. thanks so much. /Steve

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clipped on: 05.09.2010 at 08:10 am    last updated on: 05.09.2010 at 08:10 am

View of Super Susan before counter install

posted by: rjr220 on 05.07.2010 at 12:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know that the topic of what to do with corner cabinets comes up frequently here, and is one I studied when planning the kitchen. My kitchen is being stalled as we speak, and the Super susan is being installed.

I hope these following pictures are helpful for those currently planning what to do: this is a 32" SS in a base that has an interior measurement of 33".

View from front
Photobucket

view from top:

32 &quot; Super susan

It's the first time our cabinet maker has installed this, and he says that he wishes more people would, because it is very easy to install! And it has ALOT of room, just like others have attested to.

Oh, and just because I love my cabs . . . .

Cab installation:  sink wall

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clipped on: 05.07.2010 at 02:07 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2010 at 02:07 pm

Rev-A-Shelf Two-Tier Cookware Organizer

posted by: cancoi on 05.01.2010 at 10:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone seen or used Rev-A-Shelf's 21" Two-Tier Cookware Organizer (#5CW2-2122-CR)? Do you think it would hold a good selection of Al-Clad pots? I was putzing about their website for storage ideas and found this. We currently have a 8x8 pegboard system for our current kitchen but we won't have this luxury at the new house.

Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-A-Shelf Two-Tier Cookware Organizer

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clipped on: 05.02.2010 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 05.02.2010 at 10:50 am

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.


Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


Measuring:

  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:
    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


Installation:

  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
      • Make sure the seams are butted tight
      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
    • Check for chips. These can be filled.
    • Make sure the top drawers open & close
    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:
    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

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clipped on: 02.02.2010 at 06:41 am    last updated on: 04.27.2010 at 11:48 am

RE: Budgeting: If you had 30,000 to redo your kitchen. . . (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kaismom on 04.17.2010 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is one of the best I found around.
See if this helps you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Budgeting for Kitchen


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clipped on: 04.18.2010 at 03:24 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2010 at 03:24 pm

Pantry photos/ pics of pantries

posted by: rhome410 on 02.03.2009 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are some great pantry threads that will eventually be lost and Starpooh suggested I post links here so that others can post and, hopefully, we'll keep some of these resources alive for those planning pantries in the future. (She pointed out that threads 'live' longer here than on the discussions side of the forum.) There is one thread, in particular, that has awesome photos of pantry interiors that I can open through a link I've saved, but if anyone posts on it, it doesn't become current again. Starpooh has put it in .pdf form and it is too large to download here, so I've linked it below.

Here is another walk-in pantry thread with helpful shelf spacing guidelines/recommendations:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0518351723171.html

There is also a previous thread with photos of closet style pantries, which I'm still trying to track down. Of course, photos of pantry cabs will be helpful to people, too.

Anyway, here's hoping people will start showing off their pantries here, so we form a pantry album for others to consult.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread as .pdf: Anyone Willing to Share the Inside of their Pantry?

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clipped on: 04.18.2010 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2010 at 12:31 pm

pictures of warm white cabinets with lighter granite

posted by: eks6426 on 02.12.2010 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Many people have the contrast look with warm white cabinets and dark (often black) counter tops. I felt my kitchen was too small to handle dark counter tops so I chose a lighter granite. Now, it's getting close to install time and I'm starting to panic thinking that light granite on top of warm white cabinets might be too much light. I have medium brown wood floors and lighter sage green walls.

I'd love to see some pictures of warm white cabinets with lighter countertops.

Thanks

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clipped on: 04.15.2010 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2010 at 03:38 pm

Undercounter Stainless Sink With Laminated Counter

posted by: nerdyshopper on 03.26.2010 at 12:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

My wife prefers laminated counter tops to granite or quartz. We have found a new pattern in Formica that very closely resemble granite. The problem is: she also likes stainless steel sinks and especially undercounter ones. So how to accomplish this? I have thought up an approach which is to use a Corian top on only the cabinet that houses the sink, and mounting the sink under it. the laminate would extend to the lip of the sink opening, over the Corian. This would take some routing to do and even then I'm not sure an installer would be capable of doing the fitting. I'm wondering if anyone reading this can help decide if this is reasonable to try.

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clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 10:19 am

Granite Sealing????

posted by: shelia--greenthumb on 03.25.2010 at 06:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I will be getting Baltic Brown granite installed in
about one month. I have talked to two different co.
They have two different opinions about sealing it.
Do I need to seal it? Thanks for your advice.

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clipped on: 03.26.2010 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 03.26.2010 at 11:25 am

How to find a local carpenter/cabinet maker? (NoVa/DC area)

posted by: ejbrymom on 03.13.2010 at 01:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

How do you go about finding a local cabinet maker/carpenter that can work with exisiting base cabinets, add new uppers, build new island and pantry cabinets and pullouts?
Where do you find someone that is reputable?

We thought about going back to our cabinet company but then we have to have someone make/install the pullouts and paint. I'd like someone who can do it all. But don't know where to start looking.

ANy help is appreciated.

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clipped on: 03.15.2010 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2010 at 05:56 pm

Cost of cabinet installation?

posted by: eks6426 on 03.03.2010 at 10:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I had custom cabinets made. Originally, my husband and I were going to do the install so that was not figured into the price. Now, some other things have come up that takes our time, so we're considering letting the cabinet shop folks do the install.

We asked for a price and it came back high to us. But we don't have much for comparison.

We have 8 lowers and 7 uppers plus a shallow can storage type cabinet. Crown that will go on the cabinets plus the rest of the way around the room and light rail. The cabinet shop gave us a price of $1,600. That comes out to about $100 per cabinet. Does that sound high or normal?

I am in the medium size city in the midwest...so not generally a high rent district. Average home pricing is under $100K here.

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clipped on: 03.03.2010 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 03:17 pm

Semi-Custom Cabinet Brand Recommendation

posted by: mdfacc on 02.27.2010 at 12:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I recently talked with a kitchen designer at Lowe's who recommended the Kraftmaid cabinets there, but I've read many disparaging remarks about that brand on GW. Which brands provide reliable quality?

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clipped on: 02.28.2010 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 02.28.2010 at 10:10 am

RE: Best advice from this forum (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: babka on 07.14.2007 at 10:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Having all drawers in the lower cabinets. I would've put in doors with pull-outs. We didn't change the footprint of our 1965 kitchen, but needed to make the most of every square inch, and make it more user friendly.

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clipped on: 02.15.2010 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 02.15.2010 at 11:32 am

Crown Molding and Uneven Ceilings

posted by: alwaysfixin on 02.13.2010 at 05:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are still in the planning stages of our kitchen. But we know we are having cabinets go up to the 8' ceiling, along with minimal crown molding, about 3". The house was built in the '50's, and I am sure the ceiling is uneven by about 1"-1.5" from one end to the other. I remember old threads on this forum discussing in detail the technique of using crown molding to disguise the difference in ceiling height so that the cabinets appear to meet the ceiling with no difference evident. But I don't remember what the method is. I would very much appreciate someone reviewing the technique. We will be mostly DIY, so feel free to go into as much detail as possible!
TIA!

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clipped on: 02.14.2010 at 03:41 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2010 at 03:41 pm

mechanics lien release - remodel

posted by: fandango on 02.02.2010 at 09:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does anyone ask their contractor for a mechanics lien release during a remodel? I paid my contractor direct for the cabinets and his sub contractors and have a receipt from him however, if he hasn't paid them am I responsible? Is it the norm to ask for release? Should he be offering it to me? Thanks

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clipped on: 02.03.2010 at 06:37 am    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 06:37 am

Relative cabinetry prices: brand vs. brand

posted by: stretchad on 03.29.2008 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

We're going to redo our kitchen but aren't quite ready to approach Lowes/HD for quotes on cabinetry. I was wondering if anyone has sufficient knowledge to know which brands are generally cheaper or more expensive. My assumption is that ikea is the cheapest, but I'm not sure how it goes from there.

SO, can those of you who respond supply your ranking of cabinet brands from cheapest to priciest?
This might help those of us who are early in the planning stages...
Thanks!

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clipped on: 01.17.2010 at 06:59 am    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 06:33 am

What are your interior drawer measurements for pots and pans?

posted by: carecooks on 01.31.2010 at 08:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm now in the process of measuring everything for my drawers. I have a lot of pots and pans to store. What interior measurement did you use for your pot and pan drawers? I would love pics too!

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clipped on: 02.02.2010 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 02.02.2010 at 06:30 am

Computers in Kitchens (anyone have pics)

posted by: vampiressrn on 01.24.2010 at 03:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am going to be putting one of my laptops in the kitchen, mainly to use for recipes. I have a great application for recipes and it is helpful to have the recipe displayed while I am working on the item. I am not one for clutter on the counters, so am thinking of finding the perfect basket to put it in with a lid, so I can open it up and use it when needed, but close it down inside the basket when not in use. It doesn't have to be a basket, but I am just looking for ideas now. If anyone has a picture of their computer in the kitchen, it would be greatly appreciated. TIA :-)

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clipped on: 01.25.2010 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 01.25.2010 at 06:30 am

98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.

Details:

Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from theglassmosiacoutlet.com
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek

Before:

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After:

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Photobucket

Sink Area:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Backsplash:

Photobucket

Island:

Photobucket

Island - Backside:

Photobucket
Pantry Area - Closed:

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Pantry - Open:

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Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:

Photobucket

A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.

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clipped on: 01.24.2010 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2010 at 08:36 pm

blum space corner?

posted by: kitchen_angst on 01.22.2010 at 11:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone used a blum space corner? I will have a lower corner cabinet with only 12" on each face and so am considering space corner drawers instead of a piano hinge cabinet.

Here is a link that might be useful: space corner

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clipped on: 01.22.2010 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2010 at 04:39 pm

Inset for looks v. frameless for space: which to choose at same $

posted by: artemis78 on 01.16.2010 at 03:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

From the beginning of our remodel process, we'd planned to base our cabinets on an inspiration photo I found, which mixed frameless lowers with face-frame inset uppers for a period look. We're going for an Arts & Crafts feel, but since we have a small kitchen and a budget that's barely out of Ikea territory, I could rationalize that approach based on the cost and space savings and was pretty content with it.

Fast forward to this week, when I started getting estimates back, and discovered that one of the small cabinet shops we're looking at will build inset for the same price as frameless, and meets our budget. At first I was giddy since I'd assumed even just the uppers would be a huge reach---but then I realized we would need to resize many of our lower cabinets to account for the rails and stiles (e.g., our 12" pullout that was carefully sized to fit an 11.5" dog food bin suddenly becomes a 14" pullout to fit the same bin, which in turn means the drawer bank next to it shrinks, etc.) Since our layout is drawer-heavy, this amounts to a lot of space.

I've read through the old threads I could find on inset v. full overlay and know you can sometimes lose space with frameless door conflicts too, and can design around it for face-frame with enough space---but since we have a galley layout with only a couple of doors, conflicts aren't a big issue. We only have 13LF of lowers and 8LF of uppers, so space is at a premium. The lowers are drawers except for one pullout, the under-sink cabinet, and one drawer-over-door next to the range to meet code.

This has become a classic form versus function debate in our house, and I'm curious to know what those of you who have inset cabinets (or decided against them for reasons other than cost) think from a utility perspective. Do you feel you've lost much in the way of storage space? Does the aesthetic make up for that, or would you do it differently?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 01.18.2010 at 09:03 am    last updated on: 01.18.2010 at 09:03 am

DIY tile backsplash helpful hints

posted by: rebaw on 12.30.2009 at 12:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Got my beautiful 3x6 "bossy gray" tile from Sonoma Tilemakers. (i live in sonoma county so that was a plus for me.) DH got back from tile store and is concerned about grout lines with these "custom-made" tiles. They don't look like irregular or "not-uniformed to me, but DH is worried that the spacing will be difficult and will look bad. Any helpful hints about using these kind of tiles? We're also using some walter zanger oyster gray 1x3 for accent. My husband is very good and meticulous with all of his work. THe only thing he didn't do is the quartz countertops, and it's the only thing that i didn't feel like we had perfect craftsmanship and pride of craftsmanship on the countertops. I'm concerned that he may be TOO exacting with the tile and drive himself crazy. HELP! We've come too far to let this make him regret ever getting into this remodel.

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clipped on: 12.30.2009 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2009 at 03:13 pm

Need some cabinet opinions

posted by: tengofive on 12.29.2009 at 12:51 am in Kitchens Forum

I was just going to put crown molding up above the cabinets, but my mom thinks I should have another row of 12" cabinets to take it all the way to the ceiling. I haven't decided what to do on the wall with the range yet. I'm leaning towards no cabinets after the ones on the right wall that go to the window, but dh isn't happy with that. We obviously still have a lot to do. All the light are going to come down (except the recessed ones) and we'll hang new pendants above the island. We're putting the kitchen in what was the dining room.

Photobucket

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clipped on: 12.29.2009 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2009 at 12:19 pm

Surviving without a kitchen - how'd you do it?

posted by: stretchad on 12.27.2009 at 11:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen demolition begins 1 week from tomorrow. While I'm very excited to start, I am really not looking forward to being without a kitchen for such a long time.

What did you guys do to avoid tons of eating out, takeout and delivery food?

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clipped on: 12.29.2009 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 12.29.2009 at 09:33 am

photo size

posted by: brownthumbia on 08.18.2009 at 09:08 am in Computer Help Forum

Sometimes when someone sends me a photo, it is so large it fills the screen. It also happens when I send pics. Is there a setting I can change so it is a nice normal size? Sometimes I would like to make a copy, but not the size I'm getting! Thanks in advance. BT

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clipped on: 08.18.2009 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2009 at 08:28 pm

REee: Locking Desktop Icons (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ravencajun on 08.08.2009 at 03:05 pm in Computer Help Forum

found this on one of my fave sites which might help you also
Save and Restore Desktop Icon Layout in Windows Vista

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clipped on: 08.08.2009 at 05:08 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2009 at 05:08 pm

Mother's Day Snags............gif heavy!!!

posted by: sandy_in_ia on 05.08.2009 at 07:33 am in Kitchen Table Forum

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clipped on: 05.08.2009 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2009 at 02:17 pm

Java SE Runtime Enviroment 6 U 12

posted by: sapphires on 03.23.2009 at 07:51 pm in Computer Help Forum

Hi,
Have W MS XP
I was going to download this 6U12 version when I got stuck on the option of selecting platform. I didn't know which one of these I should select: Windows, Windows Intel Itanium or Windows x64. Any advice or help appreciated. It also states that this version only works with 64 bit browser plug-in. I don't know if I have 32 or 64, how would I find out what I have? I use Firefox 3.05, IE 7 and Opera 9.23 and that says 32 but the other browser I don't know. So not even sure this newer Java version is for me is it? Sorry so confused and trying with your help to educate myself. Also, once I download this should I then go into Add/Remove and remove the two items there first and then install the Java SE Runtime Enviroment 6u12? The two times there are: Java 2 Runtime Enviroment Standard Edition v1.31 and Java (TM) 6 Update. I also notice on the Control Panel that these two items are listed. If I do (at your suggestion) remove them from Add/Remove will they also go away from the Control Panel? Thank you.
Sapphires

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clipped on: 03.25.2009 at 05:59 am    last updated on: 03.25.2009 at 05:59 am

Trying to burn photos

posted by: janepa on 01.05.2009 at 10:15 pm in Computer Help Forum

I did a search on this forum first to see if I could find an answer to my problem, but things suggested I have previously tried with no success.

In 1997 I got my first computer which was an HP from Wal-Mart. It served me well, but I wanted to update so the grandchildren got the HP. I burned many CDs with no problems - both music and data.

In 2006 I got a new system from a local tech. who recommended the following:

$1,093.92
and I wish I would have gotten a flat screen instead of the CRT monitor. I saw somewhere that the resolution and the side view were better on the CRT, but I am up close, and the resolution was as good on my HP.

Since 2006 I have not burned one CD. I talked to him several times, and tried what he suggested, but nothing has changed. My computer is showing I have a total of 111GB, 20.7GB used, 90.9GB available. I have plenty of space but I would like to get all of the photos on to a CD or DVD. When I first got this computer I got a large package of Memorex CD-Rws 12 x 700MB 80 min, and Maxell DVD-RW 4.7GB 2 hrs SP modes. I have probably ruined half
of them. I can view my old CDs. My computer guy once told me that I probably would only use the DVD for playing games, and movies. Why bother getting a DVD burner if it is not easily accessible for burning DVDs? By what I have seen on this forum maybe CDs are the better way to burn anyway. I have saved some photos on the Floppy, but the discs hold so much more. By the way, I am using Nero.

I called him again today, but he has not returned my call. He probably remembered me and thought 'oh, no, not again'. I have not bothered him since this was only my third time to ask him some questions. I even visited his store once, and he made sense, and I tried what he suggested, but nothing changed & I didn't bother to call him back. He was pleasant, but I kind of felt he thought I might not ever get the CD thing.

I use the computer for e-mail, shopping, greeting cards, hobbies, record keeping and editing my MANY photos from my Nikon D50. These projects are all successful, but I am sure disheartened with trying to burn CDs/DVDS.

Thank you for any suggestions you care to share.
Jane

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clipped on: 01.10.2009 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 01.10.2009 at 07:54 am

how do I resize a picture?

posted by: ess1 on 12.14.2008 at 04:35 pm in Computer Help Forum

can or how do I resize a picture scaned form a magazine, very small, to fit my window which has differant proportions than the scaned image?
di I don't have any photo imaging software.

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clipped on: 12.15.2008 at 06:39 am    last updated on: 12.15.2008 at 06:39 am

RE: Printable CD Sleeve? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: joann_fla on 12.12.2008 at 11:01 pm in Kitchen Table Forum

Is this what your looking for? If not google printable CD sleeve and see what comes up.

Here is a link that might be useful: CD case

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clipped on: 12.13.2008 at 06:24 am    last updated on: 12.13.2008 at 06:25 am

sun-java-critical - update

posted by: zep516 on 12.07.2008 at 06:30 pm in Computer Help Forum

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clipped on: 12.08.2008 at 08:57 am    last updated on: 12.08.2008 at 08:57 am

How do you type a 'degree' sign?

posted by: pattico on 11.15.2008 at 10:04 am in Kitchen Table Forum

I've always used....alt 0176....but it doesn't work anymore for me. It jumps me back to my home page.

Is there a different way?

patti

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clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 10:05 am    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 10:05 am