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Any regrets with white cabinetry?

posted by: karlsmom on 05.09.2013 at 09:41 am in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen remodeling inspiration pictures all have off-white cabinets, that's what I'm leaning towards. But I am scared of staining, dirty fingerprints, etc. My parents had (still have!) the 1950's white metal cabinets, I remember a grayish halo around each pull. I am a messy cook, DH needs glasses, the kids - being kids - don't care. Within the past week, we had spillage of beets, red wine, chocolate cake batter, egg yolks and pink lemonaide.

Is cleaning white painted cabs a big issue? A few years down the road, any regrets? I know this kitchen renovation will probably be the only one in this house, DH is not gung ho about it. But regular wood stained cabs leave me cold, can't work up an interest. There's dark wood trim and paneling in this house, a lot of wood.

Our local cabinet maker assured me that his painted finish is awesome and we won't have any trouble. What has been your experience? How long will a painted finish look good? Will I regret this 5 - 10 years down the road?

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clipped on: 05.09.2013 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 05.09.2013 at 10:07 am

What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !

posted by: florida_joshua on 10.24.2007 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I did a little test to answer the question.

The products:

Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
Bee's Oil
Regular Mineral Oil
Mystery Oil

First a brief discription (my opinion)

Clapham's: It is a paste, inbetween a wax and a liquid. Goes on easy and feels amazing after you put it on. On the touch catagory it is the best of the bunch.

Bee's Oil: It is a wax. A little harder to get on but if you heat it up it would be easier. Has stay power. This is at the top when it comes to keeping the patina on the stone.

Regular Mineral Oil: Needs no discription. It's easy to apply. Would keep a bottle around for those lazy days. Feels oily compared to the wax or paste. That feel goes away quickly though (whithin a hour or two if you wipe it down with a rag).

Mystery Oil: It is a liquid similar to the mineral oil. Not so crazy about the warning lable. Feels a little bit more oily than the mineral oil at first. Seems to react similar to the mineral oil. In my opinion I would rather use the mineral oil just because of convienience considering the warning about it being combustable.

The proof:

This is unoiled stone.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is the stone just after application
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This is a picture of the sheen each gives off
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A day after the first oiling
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I then oiled it twice more over the next 2 days and waited 4 days to see what we had. Here it is.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

The mystery oil evaporated the quickest, then the mineral oil, contiuing on to the clapham's, and finally the Bee's oil.

I could continue the process but I do believe that you will continue to see the same results. Over time I think you wouold spend less time applying with the wax products but I would keep the mineral oil around for quick touchups or lazy days.

This test also gives people a good idea of how soapstone will react when it is installed in their home. This process of oiling and or waxing lessens with time. Each variety of soapstone can react differently as well. This means some stone evaporates the oil or wax products off quicker and or slower. Some people leave it unoiled some oil it often. Some like it inbetween and only oil it sometimes. . . So it really is up to the owner to choose how the stone fits your lifestyle. I still have not figured out how describe to someone who does not know about soapstone in one or two paragraphs. I know it sounds cheesy but I feel it's an experience. If you don't touch it, feel it, live with it, you'll never really understand it.

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clipped on: 02.01.2013 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 02.01.2013 at 10:25 am

RE: Need help with shelf spacing for reach-in pantry, please (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.13.2013 at 04:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Kay. Maybe my experience can help. I had to design my pantry with my carpenter standing next to me. I've never had any kind of good pantry storage so I didn't really know what I was doing. Like you, I wanted to maximize space for storage. Here's how mine turned out.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Shelf height varies because I stood there trying to fit cans and boxes in to see what would fit. I started at the top figuring how high I wanted my first shelf to be for items I don't access daily then worked my way down. For the can storage, the shelves are spaced with 10.5" of open space. This allows for two cans stacked with enough breathing room to lift off the top can. Most other shelves are this same distance. My oils, vinegars, and other bottle storage needed to be taller so those are 11.75" apart.

After all the figuring and shelf moving, I was left with a narrow space about 5.5". I decided to put that at optimum eye height to make sure I didn't lose anything in the back. This shelf works perfectly for loaves of bread and cereal out of the boxes. I was proud of myself for thinking "outside the box" (ha!) to think of storing daily cereal just in the bags. Boxed cereal overflow is stored on the top shelf. You can't see in the pic, but around to the left from the bread and cereal are many little canned homemade jams, fruits, and relishes. I love this shelf.

**Caveat: This shelving was my cheap, need-shelves-now storage made from the off the shelf option at HD. I did want something more built-in and custom looking with painted wood shelves and without those ugly shelf supports. One day when the kids are older I'll tackle a pantry re-do. Also, I don't use as many canned and jarred items as shown here. A whole house reno made me turn to more pre-packaged foods than normal. And those paper plates in there make my cringe. Finally, my pantry is much better organized now.

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clipped on: 01.14.2013 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2013 at 02:26 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen - 20 pounds of sand in a 10 pound bucket (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 10.29.2012 at 08:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is a view of the wall cabinets - clean up sink and the new 8' tall door.
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and here is a view of the remote control TV lift I hid behind one of the wall cabinets - as a consequence this cabinet is deep enough for glasses mugs small plates, but not bigger plates.

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TV hidden under cabinet
clipped on: 12.31.2012 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 12.31.2012 at 09:33 am

finished backspash pic

posted by: marmoreus on 10.01.2010 at 10:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there,

I tried to post this to a thread where I asked for input, but since it's fallen off the site, it won't let me. Anyway, as a thank you to those who helped and for anyone looking for a picture of Walker Zanger Pipe Smoke in action (I had a real hard time finding any) here ya go!

Tile used: Walker Zanger Gramercy Park (Heirloom White and Pipe Smoke)


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backsplash. Nice with the change to herringbone over the range
clipped on: 11.14.2012 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 11.14.2012 at 11:09 am

RE: Mistake: Walnut Island Top Was Done w/ Waterlox instead of OI (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: michoumonster on 11.08.2012 at 01:03 am in Kitchens Forum

hi fishies, no first-hand experience yet, but I have been reading up on the various finishes to use and pros/cons. I think a lot of which finish to choose depends on your personal preferences and timing needs.

One issue with waterlox is that it must be given sufficient curing time to become truly hard and durable and so you cannot wash your counters until at least 7 days have passed and they actually will not be fully cured until 30-90 days later. Otherwise it can be soft and sticky and not set up properly.

Another depends on the amount of shine that you want -- original waterlox is sort of a glossy look, but you can ask for satin finish if you prefer less glossy-- the satin is just an added layer put on top of the original so it is not too late if you ask for it later. The satin layer often adds a little bit of cloudiness to the finish whereas the clear/glossy shows the wood grain better.

Another issue is the color that waterlox gives to wood-- many people say it adds an amber hue to the wood, which some people like as it is very rich and warm, but it is a matter of preference. However, a lot of protective finishes will add some kind of slight change in color to the wood.

Also, waterlox has high VOC content and smells terrible when drying (a low VOC version is available though people said it also smells very bad). but once dry, waterlox is supposed to be food-safe.

i am planning on using a european hardwax oil finish. the reason being i wanted a matte finish, and i didn't want to wait too long for the curing time. also, since i have young kids, i wanted a no-VOC finish that I could apply later whenever i needed to do maintenance.

good luck! I cannot wait to see your kitchen complete!

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clipped on: 11.08.2012 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 11.08.2012 at 11:57 am

RE: Number/Size of Cup Pulls on my Island drawers? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 10.04.2012 at 01:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Katieob used the Schaub pulls on this drawer... Is the Refrigerator the same thing but in 12" or do you think it's actually an appliance pull. (I'm thinking she used cabinet pulls.) I don't see anything like that on the Schaub site under appliance hardware .

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clipped on: 10.04.2012 at 02:59 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2012 at 02:59 pm

RE: Water rings on soapstone.....not anymore! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: grannabelle on 03.27.2010 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

as you may have seen on my posting of yesterday, FL Joshua also rescued my counter tops this week...

here is what i consider an invaluable piece of advice that he gave me while he was here, having to do with water rings and the like (which in my case was the least of the probs with my stone)- perhaps many of you are aware of this, but i was not, and so i pass it on...i always oiled on top of the rings and spots in an attempt to have them blend in..with no success...Joshua explained that before oiling i have to scrub the ring or spot with dish soap and water to remove it...and then re-oil...otherwise, you are just sealing the mark under the oil...last night i saw two very small little spots (don't know from what) - followed Joshua's advice and two minutes later they were completely gone...

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dealing with water rings and spots on soapstone
clipped on: 08.31.2012 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 08.31.2012 at 09:36 am

RE: posting my new 'antique' kitchen for the FKB (Follow-Up #61)

posted by: arlosmom on 06.13.2010 at 08:04 am in Kitchens Forum

hi buffalotina! Wow, what a nice compliment! One of the things I'm happiest about with the space is how well it feels like it fits with the rest of the old house. I've looked for your finished kitchen several times...post it please! It always looked like it was going to be a wonderful space.

jenswrens, my soapstone is Santa Rita. It's one of the soft ones. I've gotten a few little dings and scratches, but I absolutely love it.

paual2010, I call my blind corner cabinet with sliders my 'Costco cupboard' because it's where I store the bulk items that I only need occasionally. I made the reference a long, long, long time ago and the name stuck. So you didn't miss anything, some of the old timers around here just have a long memory. :)

This is it:
blind corner #2 sliders partially out (no need to empty all contents)

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clipped on: 08.09.2012 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2012 at 03:02 pm

Other Things... (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 11.30.2011 at 12:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Other things to consider...

  • If you must have filler, consider filler pullouts. Rev-A-Shelf, for example, has 3"/6"/9" base filler pullouts and 3"/6" upper filler pullouts.
  • Consider deeper upper cabinets. Even an extra 1" can make a difference. Keep in mind that cabinets are measured based on overall measurements, that means the exterior measurements, not interior space.

    So, a 12" deep cabinet is really 12" on the outside. Once you factor in the thickness of the back wall, you now have only 11.25" to 11.5" interior depth. If you have framed, the interior depth is reduced again by the thickness of the frame.

    However, if you have overlay, you only lose depth due to the frame along the walls, the rest of the cabinet can use the frame space b/c the door sits in front of the cabinet.

    If you have inset cabinets, OTOH, you lose that space b/c the doors & drawer fronts sit inside the face frame, so those 12" deep cabinets are now down to 10.5" to 11" deep (depending on the thickness of your back wall & frame).

    So, a 12" diameter plate will not fit in a 12" deep upper cabinet. If you add an inch to the cabinet depth (13" deep), you now have that 1/2" to 3/4" back. 15" deep uppers are even better.

  • If you have the space, consider deeper counters either with deeper base cabinets or by pulling the cabinets out from the wall a few inches.
  • Staggered-height cabinets are personal preference, even with 8' ceilings. If you like them, get them.

    One thing to keep in mind, however, is that dust does accumulate on the tops of cabinets that are not to-the-ceiling. One way to make cleaning easier - line the tops with newspaper. When it's time to clean, just remove the newspaper with the dust that collected on top of it (and not on the cabinets themselves) and replace it with clean newspaper.

    If dust allergies or asthma are a concern, I recommend all cabs to the ceiling.

  • Double-bin trash pullouts...love them!!! Dogs cannot open them! (Our dogs learned how to open the step-on ones in our old kitchen!) With two bins, one can be used for recyclables and the other for trash.

    However, put it in the Prep Zone...and, if possible, near the Cooking and Cleanup Zones. If you only have one sink, your Prep Zone will end up on the side of the sink closer to either the range/cooktop or refrigerator. So, put the trash pullout on that side. Put the DW on the other side...it will also keep the DW out of the Prep Zone (and the DW will not be an obstacle to work around while prepping.)

    Oh, and consider getting a foot pedal so you can open it hands-free.

  • Keep in mind aisle widths should be measured counter edge-to-counter edge, not cabinet-to-cabinet.
  • Strive for adequate aisle space, seating overhang, etc.
  • Measure your space 3 or 4 times (or 5 or 6 or 7 or....)!!
  • Measure from at least 3 different points vertically when measuring wall/space width...a foot or two off the floor, 4 or 5 feet off the floor, and near the ceiling...walls are not straight in most homes & you need to know your smallest measurements!

    Likewise, measure ceiling height at various points in your kitchen

  • Regarding different ceiling heights, plan for crown molding that's at least 2 pieces - the decorative piece for the top and a "plain" (or "filler") piece b/w the cabinet and the decorative piece. This "filler" piece is then cut to size to accommodate different ceiling heights...leaving the decorative piece the same size throughout the kitchen.
  • Above all...come up with a good functional layout before ordering your cabinets!!!!


Good luck!

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clipped on: 08.08.2012 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2012 at 01:41 pm

RE: Ceramic Beadboard Backpslash - Done (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: SusieQusie60 on 08.20.2011 at 12:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow - thank you all for your comments. I really appreciate it. I just went and took out the "official" kitchen file so I could try to answer any questions.

First, I have to point out that there is one horizontal seam. Look at the 2nd picture, behind my stove. It was the only place where the tile was not long enough. I agree that I probably wouldn't want that running somewhere more obvious. I also have to admit that I'm amazed at how the vertical seams really don't show at all - or at least they don't show to me!

The name of the beadboard tile is: Ceramica Colli Nantucket 8X20 Perline Tile

We ordered it from a local tile store where the owner/manager is a friend of my husband's. We paid about $5 a square foot for it which made me quite happy. (Considering the first ceramic beadboard tile I found was about $65 a square foot - way out of my price range!!)

I always have a little trouble answering questions about my countertop. It is a leathered finish, and we got it from All Granite and Marble in New Jersey. They don't have any "names" just numbers. I can tell you that our countertops cost about $4,000 (cuts outs, installation, etc.) I can't say enough good things about the people at All Granite after our cracked Blanco sink and all of their help in getting the old sink OUT and the new sink IN. But that's another thread entirely...

As soon as the last few details are taken care of, I'm actually anxious to post on the Finished Kitchen Blog. Not sure how that's working these days though, so if anyone wants to clue me in on how to do that...

Thanks again - SQ

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clipped on: 08.08.2012 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 08.08.2012 at 11:32 am

RE: pictures of warm white cabinets with lighter granite (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 04.13.2010 at 12:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I love white and more white...I have always wanted a white kitchen and I finally have the chance now that we are remodeling our rancher. Whether white kitchens are passe or not, I couldn't care less. I am building my home for my family and friends and whether my kitchen was a dated one from the 1970s or a new passe white one, my goal is to create a place that's a magnet for family and friends to enjoy, feel welcome and create memories. If you love the look, go for it. While the look itself seems very "cool" and not warm, I plan to have a number of warm accessories and my big farmhouse table and chairs, etc. will add to the wood, organic feel. Not to mention my 6 chickens that are squawking outside the back door!

My cabinets are BM Simply White which is very creamy. Love the color! Compared to many whites, it looks quite yellow. I used a white quartzite counter called White Princess.

From Menlo Farmhouse

From Menlo Farmhouse
From Menlo Farmhouse
From Menlo Farmhouse

From farther away, it looks quite white.
From Menlo Farmhouse

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 06:52 pm

Please help me ID Katieob's vent hood

posted by: dmsohio on 08.03.2012 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was reading through old threads and saw a link to Katieob's kitchen. I tried searching in the forums for a detailed description of materials and appliances but couldn't find any. Her kitchen wasn't on FKB either. Here is a link to a photo.

Here is a link that might be useful: Katieob's kitchen

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 01:52 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 02:20 pm

RE: Please post pictures of your counter-tops (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: pipdog on 07.31.2012 at 12:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Madre Perla/Mother of Pearl:
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clipped on: 08.02.2012 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2012 at 02:38 pm

RE: Does harder soapstone mean more oiling? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: bungalowdawn on 03.18.2008 at 05:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, I just called Green Mountain Soapstone to get the word from the horse's mouth. Here's what they said:

What comes from their current quarry is technically called Original PA (which stands for something Altos - the location of the mine). This just indicates what mine it comes from. It is different from what they used to sell called Original because it's a different mine. But the old "original" quarry is all mined out so PA is all they're selling now and they call it just "original" still now (without bothering with the PA).

The old original is the more green and soft stone. Original PA (the newer quarry) is dark, almost black with white veins and a harder stone.

I was told that the reason my sample is flashing off so quickly is because it is sanded too finely. He said they recommend sanding a countertop to 50-60 grit! So that it definitely has some texture to it. And that they buff out swirl marks with steel wool.

He said at that lower grit, it shouldn't flash off so fast (and might be more forgiving of scratches? definitely easier to buff out scratches when they happen).

So I'm feeling a little better about this if I can just get my fabricator to sand it to a lower grit instead of the higher grit he usually does. The GMO guy did know my fabricator and felt good about him so that was a good vote of confidence too.

Oh, and FL Josh, when I mentioned that we'd love to use you and how knowledgeable you are, he said he knew you (I guess via your old boss at Bucks County who he spoke very highly of). He was surprised to hear you were in FL.

So that's it. Straight from the horse's mouth.
Thanks for everyone's insight in getting to the bottom of this (or at least getting me over this last hump before I commit!).

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clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 08:29 pm

RE: Names of hard soapstone (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: florida_mimi on 07.16.2008 at 06:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's my take on it..
Harder soapstones-
Brazilian Black, Julia, Santa Barbara, Cobra, Python, Mumbai Grey, Belvedere, Rainforest Green, Brazilian Nights, Pietra Grigio, and I also agree with the others mentioned already above.. Keep in mind that there are "hardness" variations between all of the stones since they are a product of nature and different sections of the quarries can produce harder stone.

as far as size- The Indian soapstone (Cobra, Python and Mumbai Grey) and Santa Barbara as far as I know only comes in smaller slabs around 26x80 with a lot of varying sizes either larger or smaller by a few inches.

The other varieties I mentioned come in larger slabs maybe around 60x100 and greater depending on the stone. We have some Brazilian Black that are around 70x117 which is HUGE in soapstone. The quarries for some reason do not invest in the equipment to go "big" like the granite guys.

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clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 08:22 pm

RE: soapstone veining (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 07:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

this pic shows the veining in the soapstone.

Also--ceilings are 8/2 feet.

Counter run is 19 feet.

I think I am caught up with questions now. Heading out to pick up a snorkeling mask for my son. Leaving for vacation on thursday! :)

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mariana soapstone from walker Zanger
clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 01:59 pm

RE: Barocca soapstone looks like Ray Liotta after 2 hours. What e (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: designnov on 07.12.2012 at 12:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Another vote for original pa soapstone. Its very hard - I may have a few small scratches here and there, but it would be tough to find them. I dont baby it and I have three kids. No green in it, either.

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clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 01:50 pm

RE: Barocca soapstone looks like Ray Liotta after 2 hours. What e (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 07.12.2012 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I still have a collection of soapstone samples, the edges of which are all sharp. (As rmtdoug points out, this is a little unrealistic.) I just banged their edges and tops with a wine bottle, and I also did a "Mohs test for edge banging." The latter test was banging the sharp edge of the samples against each other.

Three held up pretty well to the wine-bottle-banging, viz., Cobra, Belvedere, and Cobra II. In each case, the wine bottle was able to inflict a small ding on the sharp edge, and a very small ding on the top. Here, the edge ding was smaller than the radius of a profiled edge, and the small ding on top was the size of a pinhead.

The "Mohs scale for edge-banging" ranked the samples in order of hardness. To my mild surprise, the results were pretty much a one-way affair: one sample was damaged and the other was unscathed. The hardest was Cobra, followed by Belvedere, followed by Cobra II.

By the way, don't be put off by Barroca -- it isn't even in the same league as the others.

Here is a picture in full sunlight of the hardest three. There is not a hint of green in my Belvedere or Cobra II samples. The Cobra reads charcoal/back, but has a slight cast of very deep green. (The junk in the foreground is sawdust from my workbench, not soapstone detritus!)
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I got those from M. Teixeira, but they no longer have Cobra on their website. Perhaps worth taking a look for it. I'd be comfortable with Belvedere and Cobra II, too.

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clipped on: 07.31.2012 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2012 at 01:48 pm

RE: Link or post of Katieob's kitchen pictures? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: katieob on 10.04.2010 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi.

Sorry for the delayed response. I haven't been on GW as much lately. Thanks for your kind words. I think mine is a "coming soon" kitchen on the FKB. Here are some photos that won't show in the thread anymore. Don't know why. Any questions, I'd be happy to help. Good luck!
Katie

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 08:27 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2012 at 08:22 pm

RE: Does Gardenweb have a favorite white paint kitchen cab color? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jessicaml on 03.05.2012 at 09:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Stumbled upon this while looking for another thread, but it seems to me that the whites mentioned most often (and there are LOTS of "perfect white" threads!) are Benjamin Moore Dove White, Simply White and White Cloud. My cabinets are in Ace Cabinet and Trim paint in a color match to White Cloud.

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clipped on: 07.19.2012 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2012 at 08:07 pm

Finished kitchen soapstone and quartzite

posted by: Shareher on 07.17.2012 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

We are finally mostly done. Thanks to everyone for their input, particularly for the layout and countertop selection.

I'm going to post a few pictures sequentially because this seems to be the easiest way.

Perimeter counters are soapstone.
Island counter is white quartzite.
Island paint is SW porpoise.
Cabinet paint is BM revere pewter.
Range is Bluestar (love it!)
Kitchenaid dishwasher and fridge.

So nice to have a kitchen again!

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 03:11 pm

RE: How deep should wood hood be for 42'??? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dseng on 05.14.2012 at 06:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

My take on this is that there's no one formula or algorithm to answer this question. It's dependent on a combination of factors: Max BTU's of the range top, effective CFM of the hood installation - not just the hood, but the whole installation, how high you will mount the hood, how tall the cooks in your house are (head bashing the hood quickly takes the fun out of cooking). Typical hood depths are 24" & 27". 24" should suffice for MOST installations unless your cooking style includes a LOT of high temp cooking. Think of the hood as an inverted (and powered) funnel - the size helps passively 'catch' the steam, grease and smoke as does the fan motor by actively drawing these items in. Size, power, how much "stuff" your cooking generates, air flow in your home, etc - all affect the equation. BUT...don't sweat it too much - putting a good BTU to CFM matched hood in place and using it accomplishes more than 90% of the battle no matter if you have a 3" side overlap or not, or if you have a 24" depth vs 27".

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 01:25 pm

Paper Towels--To Those With Built In Holders

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 06.08.2012 at 08:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those that have these.... do you still like them? Is it an issue with dirty/wet hands grabbing the towels (dirtying cabs and/or getting them wet)??

Would you do it again?

beagles I think?-
7298366750_7273ed9402

fx78td

Cabinetry13PaperTowelHolder

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 07:10 am    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 07:10 am

RE: pendant question - how many over island? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: holligator on 03.12.2010 at 11:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Two pendants is plenty for a 5-foot-long island, even if they are pretty small. As for placement, I'd ask the GC why you can't decide after the island is there. I liked being able to hold the lights up to check the placement over the island before committing.

The best way to decide where to place them is to divide your island into the same number of sections as pendants and place each light in the middle of each section. That is, with two pendants, you'd divide the island into two 30-inch sections and then place the pendants in the middle of those sections (15" from the edge and 30" between them). With three, you'd have three 20-inch sections. You want to space them this way to distribute the light evenly to the whole island.

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clipped on: 07.07.2012 at 03:11 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2012 at 03:11 pm

RE: Cabinets or window? Last layout pics (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: francoise47 on 07.04.2012 at 08:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Secondhalf, I do think that the three windows over the sink is a lovely look. If you take bmorepanic's idea and make the window lower to the counter, it might create the effect of katieob's charming new kitchen, pictured here:

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I had crank out casement windows over my sink in my pre renovation kitchen. You can't beat the casement windows for ease of use. But we decided to match the double hung windows we have in the rest of our house when we redid the kitchen. They are not as easy to open. But I do think they are a good choice for the style of our house. We have a big bank of three windows on the "breakfast nook" side of the kitchen that let in lots of light. So I was less concerned about maximizing the windows on the sink wall. But if I had had a bit more room, I would have loved to have put in a triple bank of windows as you are planning.

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clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 12:10 pm

RE: Soapstone vs. honed granite? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marcolo on 03.11.2011 at 11:53 am in Kitchens Forum

The two stones most commonly substituted for soapstone by those who can't take the plunge are Jet Mist (also called Virginia Mist) granite, as well as a stone available in the midwest called Aqua Grantique or something like that. I've seen Jet Mist up front and it looks pretty indestructible.

With soapstone, are dings ok? Scratches? The possibility of water marks, until you figure out your sanding grit and oiling techniques? If you want a perpetually pristine, perfect, new-looking counter for years and years, you don't want soapstone. If you like a little bit of patina and a sense of age and history, then maybe you do.

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clipped on: 07.04.2012 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2012 at 01:59 pm

RE: Cost Comparison: Soapstone vs. Granite (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sleepydrj on 01.29.2008 at 12:26 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a tricky comparison. In our case, soapstone was going for around $30 per square foot. That is just for the material, and doesn't include the fabrication. Granites go from the teens up to the hundreds for the material. Also remember that you typically buy the whole slab, so the actual cost per area installed depends on how efficiently you can use that slab! Also keep in mind that the fabrication and installation can run much more than the cost of the stone material.

We did look very closely at Virginia Mist granite, which is a nice grey with some white material swirling through. Many people think this is very similar to soapstone in appearance. The Virginia mist can be prepared with a honed, or an antiqued finish that make it more appropriate for an older home (non-shiny look). It has the advantage of being much harder, and so the dings and scratches that will occur with soapstone would be avoided. On top of those attributes, the Virginia mist is very popular in our area, and our fabricator uses it so much that he could essentially sell us based on the actual amount of square feet needed! So the Virginia mist would only be around $14 per square foot times the actual number of square feet needed.

I was really happy that my DH loved the soapstone enough that we took the plunge. The soapstone we found was just so much more beautiful than the inconspicuous virginia mist.

I just thought I'd mention the various factors that go into the decision - there are lots of considerations.

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clipped on: 07.04.2012 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2012 at 01:55 pm

RE: Cambrian leather granite - yikes!! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lmarletto on 12.18.2008 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have Black Pearl leather. I think it looks just like Cambrian Black, except the little "chunks" that make up the stone are a little larger. I don't remember the exact pricing but it was about like - Uba Tuba polished $3000, Black Pearl leather $4000, Cambrian Black $4500. Obviously prices will vary depending on supply and demand at any moment. Photo of BP leather below.
runnels

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clipped on: 07.04.2012 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2012 at 01:03 pm

RE: Anyone with the Black Cambria Leather (Antique) granite? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 12.11.2007 at 08:06 am in Kitchens Forum

To answer/confirm/clarify a few things posted on this thread
by ohters:

1. Camrian Black Granite does come from Canada - the unique
quality that helps me identify it from other species of
Black Granites & "Like" Granites - is that it has a metalic
look to the texture of the crystal structure, and to me, it
looks like grains of rice that were painted "silver metallic
black underneath a pane of glass"

2. "Lido" is the Venezian series color name that refers to
(and I can't remember which one it is off the top of my head)
EITHER Absolute Black OR Impala Black that has had
the "Venezian" process applied to the surface of the stone
to give it it's "leathered" look

3. The "Venezian" "look" comes from the surface of the stone
having first been "flamed" with a specail jet torch to blast
the top couple of mm's off of it, then the rough surface is
smoothed down with a series of diamond brushes to give the
surface a smoother more "leather like" appearance

4. HONING is where the stone is ground with a series of
diamond pads or plates (usually in the size of 12 to 16
inches in diameter) to remove all of the saw marks from the
face of each slab - PRIOR to the slab starting the polishing
process - just like when a woodowrker takes a piece of wood
off of the table saw - he has to start sanding it with a
very course grit of sand paper, before he can sand with a
finish grade of sandpaper like an 800 or higher

5. Venezian is similar to a brushed finish - when the
Venezian look first came out a number of years ago, it was
an instant "hit" - except for the cost. Then, as usual,
everybody started trying to duplicate the "look" - ao now
you have the "brushed" look as well

6. A word of caution to anybody wanting to use Absolute Black
on their projects: Absolute Black is a basalt - not a
true granite, but rather, a "like" granite. It contains
"calcites" that will react with acids like lemon, lime,
grapefruit, tomatoe juices and vinegar. IF you are dead set
on using AB - either polished, honed or Venezain - make sure
that you understand that the stone is going to be higer maintenance that others.... much higher

anyways...

hope that helps answer some of your questions

kevin

Kevin M. Padden MIA SFA
Fabricator, Trainier & Consultant to the Natural Stone Industry
www.azschoolofrock.com

Here is a link that might be useful: AZ School of Rock

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clipped on: 07.04.2012 at 12:34 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2012 at 12:34 pm

Finished kitchen

posted by: yardboi on 06.29.2012 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

We've been back in the house for almost a year. I'm just now getting around to posting these. Everyone here was really helpful. You will probably notice elements from lots of the regulars. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

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leathered granite counters
clipped on: 07.03.2012 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2012 at 12:52 pm

RE: Black Counter Owners (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: lolauren on 06.11.2012 at 10:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

BlackChamois ---- my counter is a granite called "Cambrian Black" which is not the same as the quartz company called "Cambria." I wish my countertop had a different name since you aren't the first person to mix those up........ (My runner up countertop was a black Cambria quartz product, though :)) The "leathered" or "antiqued" finish is honed, but there is a lot more texture to it than regular honed.

My wall paint is Pittsburgh Paint's Moth Gray.... at 75% strength. It looks similar to BM Edgecomb Grey to me, perhaps a little less warm.

The hardware is from Rejuvenation Hardware.

The tiles are regular white subways. Nothing special.

I'm linking to my finished kitchen thread if you want other photos.... :)

Here is a link that might be useful: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012245393343.html

NOTES:

cambrian versus cambria. One is granite the other is quartz
clipped on: 06.12.2012 at 10:43 am    last updated on: 06.12.2012 at 10:44 am

RE: Black Counter Owners (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lolauren on 06.11.2012 at 05:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

My antiqued Cambrian Black granite shows dust under direct light if you look at the proper angle. Standing normally, it's hard to tell it is dust and not just the honed/antiqued/leathered finish. I don't consider this a negative since it motivates me to clean the dust off and keep the counter tidy (although that probably only happens once a week.)

See in my photo where the light hits the counter on the right? That is where I might notice the dust.







RE: other issues....... my counters showed oil marks the first month or two of use. After that breaking-in period, they've been bullet proof. No more oil marks & various food items and spills have been left out for an inappropriate length of time without any issue. They all wipe up completely. Dried water marks show up on the counter (hard water + water softener creates the whitish residue) but they also clean up easily.

NOTES:

cambrian black granite
clipped on: 06.12.2012 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 06.12.2012 at 10:42 am

Update Pics of cream traditional kitchen

posted by: jen4268 on 07.24.2008 at 09:10 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi! Things are moving along and I thought I would post some progress pics- about 90% done, but no backsplash yet, waiting on my appliance pulls for the refrigerator (using temp ones that came with for now). I will post more when finished!

Cabinets- custom built, inset. Color- SW8180, almond white
Counters- Antiqued Nordic Black

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:28 am

Finished Kitchen Pictures (except backsplash)

posted by: alliern on 11.24.2008 at 12:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello! I am happy to finally be able to say that our house is done and we moved from NYC to Colorado 3 weeks ago! Here are some pictures of our new kitchen...I am so enjoying it! I am still undecided about what to do for a backsplash...have to make a decision soon but I wanted to live in the house for a little while before deciding :)

Details:
DW, Fridge, microwave/convection oven (Kitchen Aid)
6 burner dual-fuel 36" range (Thermador)
Thermador Traditional Silent 42" Hood w/remote blower
Perimeter countertop Black Minas Soapstone from Dorado Soapstone
Island Countertop Honed Statuario Marble
Perimeter Cabinets custom built with BM Simply White paint
Island Custom Built Alder
Floor Owens PlankFloor 6" Walnut with Satin Water Based Polyurethane
Delta Allura Faucet and soap dispenser
Danze Pot Filler
Cabinet hardware from Restoration Hardware

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:26 am

Getting there~Progress photos

posted by: katieob on 02.17.2012 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

So excited to report that progress is being made. We're scheduled to be finished by the end of the month (fingers crossed). This is a whole house renovation of a 1940's Cape. We downsized a ton from our last house and we are so glad! Feels very cozy and right.

Only base cabs have been installed. Templating for marble perimeter counters was today. Waiting on island, uppers, appliances, pendants, etc. ....but I'm so happy to see it coming together.

I included a photo of the brick floor in the mudroom/half bath because someone was asking about brick flooring in a post recently.

Photos~

View from banquette

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View toward front door (Built in mudroom cubbies will be on left)

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View from front door

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Brick in entry/mudroom/half bath/pantry
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Banquette
(Yes, the cup pulls were put on upside down today. Really? Really?)

Hopefully more interesting photos coming soon! Thanks for indulging me, as always.

Katie

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:25 am

RE: katieob...walnut counter help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: athensmomof3 on 05.20.2012 at 10:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yowza! That is expensive! Ours was bundled with our cabinets, but that is a high price. We have a black walnut plank top on a 9' island. I think it was around 2k max for it. Apparently there was a lot of waste too because all the boards had to be long and there was lots of sapwood, etc. in the order.

As far as the color choices go, my builder likes Velvit, rather than waterlox (more of a matte finish, less of a tabletop finish). We had him sample natural, special walnut and dark walnut. They looked almost identical. The walnut is very dark as is. We went with dark but I might switch to natural or special down the road as I use it (needs to be refinished - my builder said every 6 months or so to build it up). The dark walnut is dark but fine for my super white, marble kitchen.

FYI - CraftArt is great and very high end. They are in the area in Atlanta which sells mostly to interior designers and they have a very high end clientele. I have heard nothing but great things about them and if you can do the DIY one it will be beautiful I think!

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:22 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:22 am

Finally finished~photos

posted by: katieob on 04.18.2012 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

It's been a long year, but we moved in a few weeks ago and we're so thrilled!
Again, I'm so thankful to all the gracious forum members here. I get so much great information and inspiration here and your encouragement with Round 2 has been so helpful!

This is a whole house remodel of a 1940's Cape that we purchased last Spring after selling our house. The kitchen is an addition. We still need to paint the window trim and wall above sink, but who knows when....Also, the black front and back door will have better handle hardware soon, just so you know...

I still seem to have giant pics from photobucket, apologies.

Information
Cabs~ Shaker, inset, BM White Dove, custom (same cabinetmaker)
Counters~ Danby Marble on perimeter and walnut on island
Backsplash~Walker Zanger Gramercy Park in Heirloom White
Sink~Shaw's 30 inch
Faucet~Perrin and Rowe, polished nickel
Pendants~ Circa Lighting Small Yoke, polished nickel
Hardware~All PN. Schaub (thanks kateskouros) for appliances, RH Gilmore pulls, RH Glass knobs, Rejuvenation utility latches, Cliffside Brass icebox latches
Stools~Cottage Maine
Fridge~Liebherr
Range~Viking (mistake, me thinks)
Pot filler~Rohl Swing Arm
DW~ Miele (I think Inspira?)
Fridge Drawers~Kitchen Aid (Love, love,love)
Microwave Drawer~Sharp 24 inch

Thanks for looking !!

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Love the Liebherr fridge, thanks Marthavila.
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Banquette. Will eventually have cushions, etc.
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View from kitchen to front door
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NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:18 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:18 am

What are zones and how do you design with them in mind?

posted by: buehl on 05.04.2011 at 08:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen work zones, what are they?

"Zones" are areas in your kitchen where the work occurs. Work in the kitchen is broken down into three primary work zones. Everyone has these three zones, everyone!

Prep Zone...This is the zone where food prep takes place. Food prep can be anything from making a sandwich to preparing a multi-course meal. It includes cleaning/rinsing food, cutting, mixing, processing, etc. For many people, especially those with small kitchens, their Prep Zone is also their Baking Center for rolling out dough, etc. 70% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent prepping. It's the most often used and longest used zone in your kitchen!

Cooking Zone...This is the zone where you take the food you've already prepped and apply heat...cooktop, oven, MW. Only 10% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent actually cooking. This is the least used Zone, relatively speaking. Think about it, you usually don't spend the entire time standing in front of your oven or cooktop watching it cook. Sure, there are some things that do have to be stirred constantly, but most things are not. And even then, you usually still spend more time prepping before you begin cooking.

Cleanup Zone...This is the zone where the dirty dishes are handled! Dishes, pots, pans, etc. 20% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent cleaning up.


++++++++++++++


OK, so now we know what the primary zones are. So now, how do we design a kitchen keeping them in mind?

Prep Zone...works best when it contains a water source and is next to or across an aisle no more than 48" wide or so from the Cooking Zone. Trash & recycle bins should also be in the Prep Zone.

Cooking Zone...works best when next to/across from the Prep Zone (see Prep Zone). It's also nice to have a water source nearby as well as trash & recycling nearby.

Cleanup Zone...works best when separated from the Prep & Cooking Zones. This can be on the opposite side of a one-sink kitchen from the Prep Zone or it could be in a completely separate location (the latter usually only works well if you have two sinks). Obviously, it also needs a water source and the DW.


What else do we need to keep in mind regarding planning a kitchen and zones?

Dish Storage...works best when it's near the DW and near the serving/eating locations (island, DR, Nook, etc.)

Food Storage...works best when it's near the "action". It's nice to be able to store staples, etc. at their point-of-use, so food storage can be spread throughout the kitchen. E.g., flour, sugar, etc. in a "Baking Center", spices in the Prep or Cooking Zone, Cereal close to where breakfast is eaten, etc. If you have a dedicated pantry, it's nice to have the pantry near the point where the groceries enter the house as well.

Refrigerator...works best on the periphery of the kitchen so it's easily accessed by people working in the kitchen as well as "outsiders" looking for a snack without the "outsiders" getting underfoot of those working in the kitchen. It should also be near the Prep & Cooking Zones inside the kitchen and, if possible, near the main meal location(s) for ease of access during mealtime.

Microwave (MW)...this also works best on the periphery of the kitchen so it's easily accessed by people working in the kitchen as well as "outsiders" looking for a snack without the "outsiders" getting underfoot of those working in the kitchen.


Zone-crossing - avoid!...When planning zones, etc., try to minimize zone-crossing. For example, if you can avoid it, don't put the refrigerator such that you have to cross through the Cleanup Zone to go b/w the refrigerator and the Prep or Cooking Zone.


Protection...of all the zones, the Cooking Zone should be the most protected from through-traffic as well as general-kitchen traffic. The Cooking Zone contains the range/cooktop where you will be dealing with fire (if gas), hot foods, etc. You also do not want to have to cross a busy aisle when taking a pot of boiling water from the range/cooktop to the sink for emptying...or anything else hot, for that matter!


Zones and Kitchen Workflow

When designing your kitchen, ideally, the zones should follow the normal/usual workflow in a kitchen:

Refrigerator --> (Prep) Sink --> Workspace --> Cooktop/Range --> Table OR (Cleanup) Sink --> (Cleanup) Sink --> Cabinets (dishes, pots/pans, etc.)

Which translates to:
Refrigerator --> Prep Zone --> Cooking Zone --> Serving Zone --> Cleanup Zone

You don't necessarily have to have this exact flow, but something close. For example, you might have the Cooking Zone located between the Refrigerator and Prep Zone. This isn't necessarily bad b/c these two zones are tied so closely together. On the other hand (OTOH), it's not a good idea to put the Cleanup Zone between the Refrigerator and Prep or Cooking Zones on the same run or on the same aisle if it's a narrow aisle. In this case, the DW and someone cleaning up and/or unloading the DW will be in the way of anyone prepping or cooking because the refrigerator is an integral part of both prepping and cooking. And, of course, the reverse is true....someone prepping and/or cooking will get in the way of someone cleaning up!


+++++++++++

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Prep(aration)--sink & trash/recyclables--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW (and near a water source)--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone]

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & not too far from trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard, pens/pencils, sticky notepaper

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--tea/coffeemaker (and near a water source)--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar]

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks, leashes, medicines (if no small children in the home), etc.

Overlapping of Zones

Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap...

  • Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as landing space for the range/cooktop. (It is strongly advised you have enough room for emergency landing space on both sides of a range/cooktop.)

  • Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones and between the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 11:00 am

RE: Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset (Follow-Up #68)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 06.06.2012 at 10:54 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm still confused on my decision between DW and another PA cabinet maker (I'll call #2). We really want to get this done this week.

Both seem to be excellent as far as the product. I've seen detailed photos of both and did meet with #2 who showed me several kitchens, and pointed out several extras, finishing touches that they do standard. (#2 said the don't add door panels to the end of the island/cabinet run. That it is integrated-- not just put on after)?

Pricing is my issue. DW is $4000.00 less. However, #2 is a flat rate that includes everything. If we add extra details, whatever we do with pantry, other pullouts we haven't listed yet, if we change doors, decorate island with and corbels or legs, add pocket doors to desk area, whatever is ALL included. I am confirming this today but that is what he told me.

I spoke to Jason this morning and clearly everything we add will be extra. $175 pocket doors at desk, island legs are $99-170 each, if cabs go to countertop, wine rack, pantry hardware other than rollouts, . Now, their prices ARE fair so it probably won't add more than $1000?? It's just the uncertainly of it.

We received separate quotes from both companies for the DR area. 4' desk area and 4' of bar area. DW is $1000 higher here and will go up with add-ins. (So I guess #2 is actually $3000 more than DW and then from there subtract any extras DW will charge as the plan goes on.)

I know I'll be happy with either one so just trying to make the best decision based on ??

One major plus (I think) with #2 is that he has worked with my GC a couple of times and although he is 3 hours away is in my town/area at least twice a week and has done several homes in my area. So, he can come here as we are planning, bring samples, go over things with me in person... and I won't have to drive 3 hours to see DW 2 or 3 times. NOT that it's a big deal but with the kids taking 2 or 3 seven/eight hours days to get there and back is a little bit of a hassle. Not a deal breaker though.

Anyway, I know it's our decision and don't know what help you all can give but it helps me to sort it all out when I shout out to GW : )

Thanks for listening! : )

Fishies

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clipped on: 06.06.2012 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 06.06.2012 at 11:59 am

Want a Sneak Peek?

posted by: beekeeperswife on 06.03.2012 at 08:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are no plumbing fixtures. There is no vent hood installed. DH will be supervising the installation of that now. Making sure that nobody screws up the range, cabinets or counters.

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For my Kitchen Aid Mixer and other heavy appliances:
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Dishdrawers...now you see 'em
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Now you Don't:
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Knife drawer that was custom made to fit under the shallow side of the sink. But too bad the granite is cut too small and I will only be able to use the cutting board once we modify it. :(((

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The trim was finished yesterday
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And Dutch Wood also did our closet. Ignore the code required ugly lighting.
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Those are lift doors above the closet to hide the space bagged stuff!

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Couldn't get enough shelves
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For the laundry baskets
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And finally, the unfinished shower panel...when, oh when will the AWOL tile guy come back to grout it?
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We were given a settlement date of 6/15. I assume there will be a lot of caffeine being consumed in that house in the next 12 days.

Bee

NOTES:

Beekeeper's dutchwood kitchen and closet
clipped on: 06.04.2012 at 12:35 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2012 at 12:36 pm

RE: Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: finestra on 05.24.2012 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dutchwood email is jason@dutchwood.net

Jason High is the guy we all dealt with I think.

NOTES:

contact person for dutchwoodl cabinets
clipped on: 06.02.2012 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 06.02.2012 at 11:28 am

RE: Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: finestra on 06.01.2012 at 08:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I will try to attach a few more pictures. They haven't finished yet. They haven't finished the egg and dart crown around the hutch or the tops of most of the cabinets, nor have they attached the panels on the fridge/freezer/dw or put the corbels under the hood. And the furniture molding still needs to go around the bottom as well as valances under the appliances. Christopher Peacock would definitely claim my kitchen is overdone. But it makes me smile.

DW also fixed some problems like light placement without me asking. They are drilling new holes to make sure the glass shelves line up with the mullions in the glass doors.

I pretty much acted as a go between with the contractor but it was few and very far between. They called him once and confirmed a measurement with him regarding the hood vent. But they measured themselves and pretty much took it from there. They are a pretty sophisticated outfit. Just look at the jobs they did at Bees and Beagles.

Sink wall unfinished
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Hood/Stove wall still needs egg and dart crown and corbels under hood
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Hutch wall/Freezer needs panel and egg and dart crown
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Hutch closer
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Front of island needs microwave drawer
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Back of island with 15" deep storage cabinets
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NOTES:

dutch wood cabinets
clipped on: 06.02.2012 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 06.02.2012 at 11:25 am

RE: Cab Quotes & show me Beaded Inset vs Inset (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 05.24.2012 at 09:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yep, tell Jason you are from GW. This way he can be prepared for another TKO customer! lol

Dutch Wood is family business. They are great to deal with. They are in Myerstown, PA.

Finestra, yours are the pale blue cabinets right? Did you know Jason is going to do an island in the showroom in that color?

My cabinets are full overlay "with little cabinet showing" is how they are described. They have a little groove need the edges of the doors. Lots of things are included in their base price (plain glass is not an upcharge, utensil drawer included, tilt outs under the sink, the insides of the cabinets are painted if you do painted cabinets, and so on). I was also able to ask for other Amerock hardware that he didn't have on display and I got it without an upcharge.

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clipped on: 06.02.2012 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 06.02.2012 at 11:09 am

RE: KATIEOB-and others with stacked cabs-is it actually 2 cab? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 04.09.2012 at 01:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pic of Katieob's kit:

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clipped on: 05.31.2012 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 05.31.2012 at 10:25 am

RE: Did you do white-but not custom? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nini804 on 03.21.2012 at 08:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cabinets are Mid Continent...they are maple painted with their white, which is very close to SW Extra White. I am happy with them, but of course I ended up buying a lot of upgrades (soft close doors and drawers, panel ends, large, very trimmed out island, stacked crown molding.) They are considered a middle of the road line of cabinets, but with the plywood construction and all the other upgrades...they gave me the look I want within our budget. For what they cost, I could have had some very nice custom cabinets...but not all the trim and extras that I wanted. The paint has held up very nicely so far.
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clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 03:55 pm

RE: test (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dodge59 on 04.27.2012 at 10:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here ya go!
To do this, click on your picture, then click share at the top, then right click the URL that shows "Having Trouble", and then left click copy.

With more than one picture, it is easier to copy and paste the URL to note pad, then double space in note pad and then copy and paste the next one----and so on, then copy and paste each one to right where you typed in your post on GW, be sure to leave a space or 2 between each URL that you paste.

Gary

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clipped on: 05.23.2012 at 01:09 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2012 at 01:09 pm

added allwood (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: daveinorlado on 05.13.2012 at 03:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I forgot I still had pricing on Allwoods new white shaker cabinet that is available starting in June.(over priced brand in my opinion) Also shipping is not included in some of the brands I have. It is too hard to do with any accuracy. Some of my companies have a flat rate of 150 for 10 cabinets or more. RTA lines you have to guess when you sell the kitchen. You do not know the freight till an order with the company is created. It normally runs 200 - 250 for an entire kitchen of 15 cabinets or so. Others companies i have to entire the entire order in custom quoting software that arrives at a freight price that is not explained. Other companies I have the freight is included in the price I am given for the cabinets if the cabinet count is 10 or higher.


SCD=soft close drawers, full extension.
PGM=paint grade material or paint grade maple
5pc=matching doorstyle drawer front: Made with 5 pieces. Picture framed with center panel.

455 Brandom Durango standard overlay
471 TSG Artic White full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD- ply box
480 Wellborn Forest Jackson standard overlay
569 Wolf Classic Dartmouth full overlay SC drawers & SC doors ply box
570 River Run full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD - ply box
595 6 Square itasca painted vanilla full overlay chinese SCD- all ply
600 to 650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
622 JSI Essex full overlay chinese (RTA) SCD- All ply box
623 Medallion Silverline Series: Lancaster Maple - Slab Drawer
628 Debut Estate Series: Oxford Maple -5pc Drawer - SCD
640 Aristokraft monroe MDF door (PGM) Particle board box
645 Kabinart arts and crafts maple SCD- all ply box
780 Bridgewood custom framed or frameless same price all ply box -SCD and SC doors
785 Brookhaven Bridgeport frameless, full overlay - SCD
786 Touchstone fully custom frameless melamine box solid maple door- SCD
790 Allwood Nantucket full overlay chinese - SC doors and drawers - all ply box.
809 KraftMaid: Atwater Maple - Slab - SCD
843 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)-Slab
849 KraftMaid: Huntington Maple - 5pc - SCD
855 Touchstone fully custom full overlay or frameless all ply box -SCD- Paint Grade Maple meaning natural wood not MDF door (lower cost then natural maple used for stains)
862 Showplace: Pendleton Maple - slab
889 Medallion: Potter's Mill Maple - 5pc
925 Touchstone fully custom inset all ply box- SCD - paint grade maple
928 Holiday Estate Series - PGM - Slab - SCD
1125 Brookhaven Inset Rockport - SCD or not, same price
1239 Pennville Shakertown full overlay framed or frameless, all ply box, SCD
1366 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset Soft Maple-Slab-SCD
1780 Pennville inset Shakertown, all ply box, SCD or not
1871 Woodmode Chatham full overlay, SCD
2241 Woodmode Inset - Sturbridge, SCD or not

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clipped on: 05.14.2012 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 05.14.2012 at 11:03 am

White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison

posted by: kompy on 05.11.2012 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For my own personal use, I priced out a wall and base cabinet in a few of my cabinet lines to see where each line stood on price. These prices do not include any manufacturer promotions currently running. All include freight costs. I looked up...with a bit of difficulty, the prices of IKEA. I thought there would be more SKUs and doorstyles.

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

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clipped on: 05.14.2012 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 05.14.2012 at 09:29 am

RE: Good quality American drawer based kitchen cabinets? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: laxlady on 03.14.2012 at 11:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I highly recommend Oxford Cabinet Shop if you are anywhere near eastern Pennsylvania. They just supplied cabinets for our remodeled kitchen and bathroom and we love them! They are solid hardwood with quiet close and dovetailing everywhere. We got estimates of $40,000 from two suppliers and ended up paying $19,000 to Oxford. The quality, price and service can't be topped. Their number is 717-529-0949 but they only answer Mon., Wed., and Friday between 8 and 8:30AM.

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clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2012 at 09:51 pm

RE: walnut countertop on island (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 05.02.2012 at 04:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are varying thoughts. Most feel it's easier b/c it doesn't etch with acids like marble. If you finish with a product like Waterlox, it will be stain and water resistant. Others finish with mineral oil or an oil/wax combo. That needs to be maintained monthly. A plus is that you can buff out any issues whenever you want with a little sanding block and just re-oil.

I have heard one person say it is harder to keep than marble but most others say the opposite. We are doing a marble perimeter (danby) and a walnut island (oiled). I am thinking having the kids eat at wood will be better than at marble- where every orange juice or tomato sauce splatter will etch immediately. Plus I find wood warmer to sit at.

Here are a bunch of discussions on wood: how to finish it, how it holds up, etc... I had just suggested these to someone else with wood questions so here you go...

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0116253024906.html?11

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012043375905.html?7

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0913354730186.html?df796bfdf359db38a4b9594d4fad145aGq26I

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0211025631864.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214103427485.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0210344920885.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg021053255637.html

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clipped on: 05.03.2012 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2012 at 12:18 pm

Finished (another) white Kitchen - pics

posted by: emy315 on 03.22.2012 at 07:58 am in Kitchens Forum

I am not a frequent poster, but I learned so much form this site. Thanks to you all of you. Here is the end result:

Details:

Cabinets : Omega (mix between dynasty and custom) (island stain - truffle)
Range : 48 Wolf AG
Countertops: Kashmire White Granite
Fridge: 48 Subzero
Dishwasher : Kitchen Aid
Micro: 27' Monogram advantium
Floor: Porcelain tile (of hand I don't remember the name)
Hood: Rangcraft

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clipped on: 05.03.2012 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 05.03.2012 at 09:59 am

RE: Finished (another) white Kitchen - pics (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: emy315 on 03.22.2012 at 03:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you all of your kind words. This is a new construction. It took over a year, but we are finally in and loving it. As I said I'm not a frequent poster but I hope that by posting my photos it will help someone else as it did for me.

Here is some more info as requested:

Main sink faucet : kohler Vinnata (brushed nickel)
Prep sink faucet : Rohl Country collection (satin nickel)
Pendant : Sonneman Roxy Drum Pendant 16" PN
Cabinets: Omega - Door -Umbrell ; Maple painted in Pearl Opaque finish on perimeter and Cherry wood in Chestnut stain on island
Floor : Porcelain tile -fioranese travertine in silver matte finish
Backsplash : Porcelain tile - Vallelunga Carrara
Pulls : Restoration Hardware - Lugamo PN
Knobs : Restoration Hardware - Hanson PN

I don' know the grout color as I left that up to the tile guy. I think it might be light pewter, but I am not 100% sure.

The island is pretty large. It sits three comfortably. It's about 10 1/2 feet long. I wouldn't go any larger, as it is almost impossible to fine a slab large enough without doing a seem.

To the left of the fridge/micro wall is my butler's pantry. I've attached photos. We do have a walk in pantry but it's in the mud room.

The crown molding didn't come from cabinet company. It's actually the crown molding that's in the entire first floor of the house. As the cabinets went up, we realized how difficult it would be to transition the crown molding from omega to the ones in the rest of the kitchen. So we decided to use the ones form the house and paint it the same color as the cabinets.

Here are some more photos. Please excuse the lack of window treatments as that is next on a long list of to dos.

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clipped on: 05.03.2012 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 05.03.2012 at 09:58 am

RE: Who has a microwave drawer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: eastfallsglass on 08.26.2011 at 06:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We incorporated the Sharp 24" microwave drawer into our new kitchen, and so far we really like it. There's room for nuking two medium sized plates at the same time and it cooks both very evenly. We'll have to see if the door mechanism holds-up, but so far so good. From what I understand, Sharp is the only 'OEM' manufacturer of these drawers, so the upgrade to Viking or Wolf, etc... should be based on aesthetics.

Also note that the 27" and 24" drawers have the same cooking area inside, there is just more 'chrome' on the 27" model.

Here's a picture of our drawer, its the unit to the right of the fridge. They are sized nicely so you can get a large drawer underneath for microwavable bowls, etc...

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clipped on: 05.02.2012 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 05.02.2012 at 11:14 am

Help with overlay panels on my Sub Zero!

posted by: Megamuffin on 04.24.2012 at 11:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

My contractors installed my Sub Zero a few months ago. It is a built-in 36 inch fridge/freezer unit. We put full overlay panels on it, to match the rest of my cabinetry. But what I can't figure out is am I supposed to be able to see into the compressor unit from the side? There is at least an inch between the cleats and the metal frame that is behind the panel and I can look all the way into the unit. My contractor was out today and he is talking about widening the box and pushing the fridge back, so that the cleats no longer butt up against the frame. This might solve the problem of being able to see inside the compressor, but I'm wondering if we are missing something else?

Thanks SO much to anyone who can offer some tips. I would also LOVE to see your pictures of how your paneled SZ looks from the side.

I am new to doing this - hope I did it right! Lighting is tough but I think you can see the hinges and internal workings...

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another view
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clipped on: 04.30.2012 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2012 at 05:20 pm

RE: buehl, did you have a tutorial on your refrigerator cabinet? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hollysprings on 03.14.2012 at 12:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not Buehl, but I can probably walk you through creating a basic fridge surround if that's what you are asking here.

Do you have an extra deep over the fridge cabinet (what size is it?) and 3/4" thick 30" deep x your cabinet's top alignment height side panels plus some scribe molding, and a touch up kit?

The place to start is your fridge's utlity connections. You want a recessed box for the water supply and the power supply. If you are on an outside wall where you can't afford to compromise the insulation, you can always inset the box into the adjacent base cabinet in the run. This will keep the plug and water line from interfering with pushing the fridge all the way back into it's cubby.

The next place to start is with your fridge's specs. Some fridges are 35 3/4" wide and meant to go into a 36" space. Some require more space. Check the clearance required at the top as well. Some brands need more than others. If your fridge is one that needs a larger opening than 36", you will have to attach fillers to the 36" cabinet box until you have the recommended width.

Start with the first tall 30" deep panel next to the base cabinet. Attach the panel to the adjacent base and wall cabinets. If you are using a counter depth fridge, the panel only needs to be 24" deep. Ideally, the panel should cover the entire box of the fridge, but as some are deeper than others, check your fridge's specs. 30" is a good "standard" depth that pretty much covers most fridges sold today.

You will now need to install blocking at the top back to push out the over the fridge cabinet to the actual depth of the refrigerator. The bottom alignment height of the cabinet should be 72", so that is where you take a 2"x6" on edge and pre-drill for lag bolts to screw into the studs to extend the depth of the studs. After you have the studs extended, cover them with 1/2" plywood. You want the overall depth of the blocking plus the cabinet box to equal to the depth of the side panel, and if you custom cut the side panel to match your fridge, you may have to do some fiddling with the blocking here. The overall plywood covered blocking should equal the width of the fridge cabinet. I have had some installer use the build up area where the blocking is located to install the recessed power and water supply. It's often better to do that than to impinge on the storage in the adjacent cabinet. It all depends on how you have to run the electricity and water.

Now you're on to the other side of the enclosure. Take the second panel and attach it to the blocking. If you have a second cabinet on the other side of the recess, then attach the panel to the base and wall cabinets there. If you don't have cabinets there to stabilize the panel, then you may want to install a bit of very small blocking into the interior at the rear wall to give you something to nail the side panel to.

OK, now you've got your cubby. Using a jack or several grunt labororers, lift up the fridge cabinet and attach it to the blocking at the rear. If you've done your job right and made sure everything is plumb (that's a BIG deal for a cubby) then it should just slip between the side panels perfectly and be level without any shims or tweaking. Then attach it to the side panels just like you would attach wall cabinet to wall cabinet (behind the hinge plate to disguise it), making sure to use short enough screws so as not to screw through the panels.

Cover the front cut edge of the panel with scribe molding as well as where the panel joins the wall between the base and wall cabinets. Some people will use scribe molding at the floor level against the floor and others will use 1/4" round or baseboard molding. It's an aesthetic choice, but you want to cover the panel/floor transition. Install the crown molding. There will be an approximate 2" gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the top of the fridge (because standard fridge height is 70)-71") and you can attach light rail molding to the cabinet or a horizontal filler on a piano hinge that you can flip up in order to store some cookie sheets or something on top of the fridge.

Use the touch up kit's fill stick to fill any of the pin nails, and then you're ready to plug in the fridge and attach the water line and roll it back into it's cubby.

NOTES:

getting refrigerator all the way back to the wall so it does not stick out.
clipped on: 04.26.2012 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 04.26.2012 at 10:19 am

RE: Cabinet Pricing - Sanity Check (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: brianadarnell on 04.18.2012 at 09:51 am in Kitchens Forum

That does seem high. Our cabinets are brookhaven. We got the kitchen (attached link), and three bathrooms (one larger master, a medium size, and a tiny one cabinet bath) for about $20,000. I think I have a bunch of kitchen cabinets- the island has 5 cabinets, 6 basecabinets, a refrigerator surround, a custom hood, a custom microwave/storage cabinet, and 5 uppers and a lazy susan corner cabinet. I also did a bunch of end panels.
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clipped on: 04.22.2012 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 04.22.2012 at 11:15 am

RE: Interviewing KD's (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: drachiele on 03.14.2012 at 06:15 am in Kitchens Forum

I was a kitchen designer for 20 years. I put together a website that gives tips on how to buy a kitchen. I am not selling anything. I just wanted to give something back. I tried to make it thorough but not too wordy. Those of you who know me are aware I tend to talk too much. I hope the link below is of help.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to shop for a kitchen

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clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 02:06 pm

RE: Pennsylvania Cabinet Shopping - Value (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 05.23.2011 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you are going to look for Amish/mennonite cabinet makers in PA, they are all going to be custom cabinetry as far as I know. We went to many different places (we're very close to Lancaster) and didn't encounter any who had off-the-rack cabinets (for lack of a better word). That said,

Home Improvement Outlet "
615 E. Walnut street Lebanon Pa.
717-273-8167

has what seemed to be reasonably affordable semi-custom cabinetry when we went in there looking for floors, but I didn't really look into it at all because we'd already found our cabinet maker and I have no idea who makes it or if it is the same brands as you'd find everywhere else.

Most of the non-custom places we went to did just sell the same stuff you'd get anywhere else (Kratmaid, Candlelight, Medallion, etc.) so there wouldn't probably be a lot of use in you going to Lancaster, etc. just to look at that stuff.

Our custom cabinet maker was less expensive than Medallion or Candlelight. Our cabinet maker is Dutch Wood Kitchens
I don't know what your budget is, but base price starts at $418/linear foot for cabinets (more if they have to go very far from PA to install). That's for all wood, dovetail construction, etc. Adding additional features (fancy hood, glass doors, etc. etc.) was pretty affordable as well.

When we were looking, we also went to Oxford Cabinet Company on the recommendation of people here:
Try
Oxford Cabinet Shop
120 Quarry Road
Oxford, PA 19363
Jacob K. Fisher
Call Monday, Wednesday or Friday between 8-8:30 AM
(717) 529-0949
We got a quote from them that was around $2000 more than Dutch Wood (we have a large kitchen w/ lots of add-ons)

Here is a thread on the same question: cabinet cost

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clipped on: 03.18.2012 at 01:23 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2012 at 01:23 pm

RE: Marble Lovers, come out, come out wherever you are! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 03.07.2012 at 10:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

...speaking of Vermont, Vermont Danby marble is supposedly more kitchen friendly and less porous than the Italian marbles. I have a sample of Imperial Danby that is holding up better than the Carrara. You can go to the Vermont Danby marble website.

Also, polished marble will show the etches much more than a honed piece.

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clipped on: 03.08.2012 at 08:39 am    last updated on: 03.08.2012 at 08:39 am

Not-nearly-done-but-since-you-asked pics

posted by: breezygirl on 01.13.2012 at 08:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone who keeps asking me for new photos of the kitchen! We still have miles to go, as you can see.

Not done:
light fixtures
tile
knobs on uppers
pantry door handle
drywall repair around outlets
paint
stools
kitchen table, banquette, chairs
DR chandy
DR chairs

Excuse any dirt or mess you see in the backgrounds!

Details

Perimeter: Carrara marble, honed 4cm
Island: Black Walnut
Custom Cabinets: Cornerstone Cabinetry, painted BM Simply White
Hardware: Restoration Hardware Aubrey pulls, 4', 6' and 8'
Rangetop: 36' 6 burner Capital Culinarian
Hood: Rangecraft, Viser model
Fridge: KA built-in
MW: Sharp 24' drawer
Sinks: Blanco silgranit in metallic gray
Faucets: Hansgrohe high-arc

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From the Dining Room.
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Closeup of beverage serving area. (Wow, that's a lot of booze. We're really not alcoholics!) We entertain a lot so I plan to set up beverages, which end up to mostly non-alocholic, here. I rotated this in photobucket, but it shows here the other direction.

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I bought these pendants on sale and plan to do a DIY mercury glass technique on them to see if I can cut the glare but not make them look cheap. If they don't work, then I'm not out much and will continue the hunt.

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I'll put a link to my photobucket album with more pics. My flickr account was full so the album will only have pics since we moved back in.

Oh, and I said I'd post some pics of the new cats, too. That's next!

Here is a link that might be useful: more pics

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clipped on: 03.01.2012 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2012 at 01:28 pm

RE: Quartzite countertop (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: muskokascp on 01.09.2012 at 07:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

These were taken the day of install. Since then the backsplash and window ledges have also been installed - also quartzite.
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clipped on: 03.01.2012 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2012 at 01:06 pm

Quartzite countertop

posted by: NaRo on 01.09.2012 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our counters-to-be, if all goes well.

Does anyone have experience with Calacatta Macaubus quartzite?

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clipped on: 03.01.2012 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2012 at 01:00 pm

Almost Finished Pics - long time coming...

posted by: aokat15 on 02.09.2012 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm still waiting to finish up some small details - such as having my potfiller installed - but I thought I'd post my almost finished pics. I've posted some pics along the way, but here is where we're at now. It's been almost 2 years since we purchased our home and we are slowly coming to the end of a long whole house renovation and addition. Gardenweb has been an amazing source for inspiration and guidance - thanks for all of your help along the way. Let me know if you want any info.

To the right of my refrigerator is an oversized walk-in pantry. There are temporary shelves in there now... someday soon we'll have cabinets and nice shelving and I'll share those pics as well :)

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clipped on: 02.27.2012 at 05:34 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2012 at 06:03 pm

Finished Kitchen - creamy farmhouse (or some such thing)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 01.28.2012 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone who gave me feedback on my layout many moons ago. Thanks also to all of those who have posted their kitchen photos, so that I could join all the others in admiring, taking notes, clipping photos and building the ideas that would become my kitchen. I have finally finished building my house, moved in just before the holidays, and just now have a chance to post some finished pictures.

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Now for the details (if I can remember them all!)

The cabinets are custom cabinets from a shop here in Atlanta called The Town Carpenter.
The cabinets are painted Sherwin Williams "Creamy White" with all of the black removed. This became known as "custom creamy" at the cabinet shop and they sold several more jobs of this color while my cabinets were being made.
The walls are painted Benjamin Moore's "You Are My Sunshine."
The floors are white oak from the trees we cut down while clearing the lot to build with multiple coats of tung oil - no stain.
The library ladder was made from the leftover floor boards with the same tung oil treatment.
The perimeter counters are honed Crystal Pearl Quartzite.
The island countertop is honed Virginia Mist.
The range is a 48" dual fuel Five Star (one gas oven one convection).
The hood is a Ventahood with a custom cover.
I have two dishwashers. One is a top of the line Kitchen Aid and one is a Miele.
The clean up sink is an Ikea Domsjo single bowl undermounted.
The prep sink is a Kohler stages 36" mounted wrong ways about.
The refrigerator is a SubZero and the freezer is a Thermador Freedom Column.
The warming drawer is a Miele.
The microwave is my old countertop model given a spot under the island. I'm not a fan of built in microwaves.
Behind the range is a sheet of brushed stainelss steel.
The other backsplashes are beadboard painted to match the cabinets.

I think that about covers it. I'll be happy to answer any questions and thanks again to the gardenweb community.

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clipped on: 02.27.2012 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2012 at 06:00 pm

can't find thread! granite/quartzite like marble

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 01.29.2012 at 07:47 am in Kitchens Forum

This month on the first page or two I was looking at a thread about a SPECIFIC type of granite or quartzite. I can't find it and went through 25 pages so maybe it wasn't in the title? .. or I missed it.

It WASN'T Super White, White Princess, White America, Luce di Luna, White Moon (?)... I know about all of those. And I think it was an exotic sounding name but can't be sure. It was a different one. I remember thinking WOW-THAT one REALLY does look like marble. It was very white with gray VEINING and was polished. A few people had posted their photos of it.

I "let it go" b/c it had gray veining and I was looking for more gold but now I'm thinking of gray again and it might be a good substitute for marble in case I don't do marble.

Anyone know what I am talking about? : ) I know there are several threads on this b/c I started a couple of them, but there is one in particular I'm referring to : )

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clipped on: 02.27.2012 at 05:59 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2012 at 05:59 pm