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RE: An ode to Beets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: skybird on 03.20.2008 at 01:32 am in Rocky Mountain Gardening Forum

My method for storing beets over winterwhich was an experimentworked out very well this year, David. When we started getting down to freezing temps overnite, I dumped several big bags of maple leaves on top of my beets, carrots and parsnips, then I put an old sheet over the top of the leaves to keep them from blowing away and weighted it down with bricks to keep it from blowing away, and-------thats all! Ive gone out three times over winter to dig up some of each. I just rake a section of the leaves back, dig up what I want, make sure theres a good blanket of leaves on top of whats still left, put the sheet back on top, and the rest of them wait to be dug later. Since maple leaves dont pack down, they make a great blanket of air! I definitely wouldnt use something like cottonwood leaves that would pack together and "slime" everything.

In the past Ive tried digging them all at once, and then theres always the problem of where to keep them (it wasnt that many, but it still filled up the fridge) and that they dont keep very long. This year that was no problem at all. Just last week I went out and dug the remaining beets and carrots, and still left a few of the parsnips, but theyre going to need to be dug soon too because all three were just barely starting to show signs of new growtheven under the THICK blanket of leaves.

One other storage system that works really well for my brother in Illinoisand I was gonna do this next year if my "blanket" method didnt workis to dig them all up, cut all but about an inch of the tops off, and then slowly pack them in a BIG bucket or a tub starting with a layer of dry sand on the bottom, then placing a layer of the beets (carrots), then more dry sand, another layer of beets, etc. When finished the top layer of beets should be completely covered with the sand. Then the whole bucket/tub is stored in an out building or garage that will stay cold but not get too far below freezing for too long. When you need beets, you just dig into the top layer of sand and pull out what you want. A couple times each winter he dumps the whole thing out to pull out any that might start to rot or go bad in any way, and then he re-layers them again. What always surprised me was that they dont start dehydrating, and Im not sure if or how much difference the dry climate out here might make. If you ever decide to try it, its important to start with dry sand. Then, when you get to dumping the whole thing out to redo them, youll find the sand is quite damp from moisture that has migrated into it from the veggies. When theyre re-packed, you use the same sand, which is, then, damp.

The only possible drawback to storing them outside in the ground would be if theyre in a spot where theyd be too buried under snow all winter to be able to access them. This winter I suspect you wouldnt possibly have been able to get thru to them if they had been in the ground! Last winter I couldnt have dug mine if they had been outsidebut thats REALLY unusual down here in the lowlands! I guess the other possible problem would besince you guys all have such big gardensif its just simply too big an area to cover. But with a little planning, you might be able to keep the ones you wanted to store in the ground in a more localized area. I REALLY liked the fresh-dug flavor they had when being stored in the ground, and I plan to keep doing it that way.

How do you roast yours? Do you do it with the skins on and then slip them off, or do you peel them and then roast them somehow. Ive got a bunch in my fridge since I just dug the rest of them, and Im always interested in possible new ways to cook them.

Love beets,
Skybird

NOTES:

inground storage
clipped on: 02.17.2010 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 02.17.2010 at 08:52 am

RE: Annie's Salsa question... (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: digdirt on 01.19.2009 at 10:43 am in Harvest Forum

Here you go:

ANNIES SALSA

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2 cups chopped onion
1 cups chopped green pepper
3 5 chopped jalapenos
6 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
16 oz. tomato sauce
16 oz tomato paste
Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Pour into hot jars, process at 10 lbs of pressure for 30 minutes for pints.

Makes 6 pints

if I want to process in a BWB up the vinegar to one cup and process 10 minutes in BWB.

You can safely leave out the cumin abd/or the green peppers but do not increase the cilantro

NOTE: To repeat what Annie said, the Extension agency no longer recommends canning in quarts or pressure canning her salsa (probably because they don't have the resources to test it). For those who have made it in the past, the pressure canned recipe called for a smaller amount of vinegar.

So, to update, make Annie's salsa with a full cup of vinegar, can only in pints and boiling water bath for 15 minutes. (From Carol)

Use the Harvest forum search at the bottom of the front page not the GW-wide search at the top of the page.

Dave

NOTES:

Best darn stuff I ever made!!!
clipped on: 07.06.2009 at 03:48 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2009 at 08:43 pm

RE: Your Greatest Hit Recipes for Leesa (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: never-give-up on 08.20.2008 at 03:36 pm in Harvest Forum

Thank you Carol.

This one from Ball looks good. Going to try it tomorrow.

Chow-Chow Relish

1 quart chopped cabbage (about 1 small head)
3 cups cauliflowerets (about 1 medium head)
2 cups chopped green tomatoes (about 4 medium)
2 cups chopped onions (about 2 medium)
2 cups chopped sweet green peppers (about 4 small)
1 cup chopped red peppers (about 2 small)
3 tablespoons salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons celery seed
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ginger
2 1/2 cups vinegar

Combine vegetables; sprinkle with salt. Let stand 4 to 6 hours. Drain well. Rinse and drain. Combine sugar, spices and vinegar in a large saucepot. Simmer 10 minutes. Add vegetables; simmer 10 minutes. Bring to a boil. Pack hot relish into hot jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Adjust two-piece caps. Process 10 minutes in a boiling-water canner.

Yield: about 4 pints

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.06.2009 at 06:04 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2009 at 06:04 pm

RE: Do I need to cut my triple crown berry bush? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jellyman on 10.27.2008 at 03:03 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

keepitlow:

Blackberries (except for a couple new primocane varieties) are bienneals, and are not supposed to produce berries on new canes the first season. Instead, the canes that grew up over this past season will produce blackberries for you next summer, after they have wintered over.

Cutting back the canes may reduce the fruiting area of these canes, unless they are so very long that they are excessive -- say over 7-8 feet. TC canes should also be supported by a trellis or other scheme. They will not produce quality berries for you while lying on the ground. Berries will form on laterals that grow in on overwintered canes early in the season.

After the berries have all been harvested in late July to early August, you should remove the canes completely by pruning to the ground. New canes will have grown in simultaneously, which will bear the following season, and so on and so on and on.

Triple Crown blackberries are not "bushes" in the usual sense of that word, which implies a certain permanence. Instead, they are caneberries that are in a continuous process of fruiting and renewal. Give them lots of stable manure or other deep organic mulch to keep them growing vigorously.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.11.2009 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 04.11.2009 at 04:58 pm

RE: Use of dormant oil on fruit trees (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jellyman on 03.05.2008 at 01:24 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Kudzu:

Dormant oil is not a toxic substance, and works by cutting off the oxygen to overwintering eggs of insects and, to a certain extent, fungal organisms that require oxygen to survive. It is quite effective against things like scale insects and aphids, but much less so against fungal problems like apple scab, peach leaf curl, or bacterial diseases.

What are the particular problems you are trying to treat with dormant oil?

When applying oil, you might first consider the strength of the mix, as well as the type of oil you are using. When spraying fully dormant trees, I use a strong mix of up to 5 ounces of paraffin-based oil per gallon. Lately, I have been using standard Bonide spray oil. Yes, you can spray with oil "any time", but after trees are leafed out you would want to use a lighter, summer weight oil such as Sunspray, and mix at a much lower rate -- say one ounce per gallon or less. Otherwise, spray oils can be phytotoxic and will burn the leaves.

Generally, dormant oil sprays are most effective when the trees are ready to bud out, and the insect organisms are also waking up. I would have no reservations at spraying trees that are beginning to show bud color, but would probably reduce the mixing rate to 3 ounces per gallon or less when using a standard, paraffin-based oil.

If you can find a weather window of at least 2-3 days with no rainfall, oil sprays will be more effective. Maybe not so easy in your area. Full coverage is also important with oil sprays, so wait for a calm day when you can focus the spray and really see what you are doing. I always mix my oil sprays with copper (Kocide) to deal with fungal as well as insect problems. The two seem to work well together, and I use this mix on both pome and stone fruits.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

NOTES:

for leaf curl, scales, mites and aphids and many fungal diseases, Mix dormant oil 1/2c per gallon(neem/bonide) with Kocide copper spray. spray and cover trees well with this mixture while completely dormant. too much oil will kill leaves so spray in dormancy. When buds break and trees begin to show buds, treat regularly with more spraying, using less dormant oil 2 - 3T/gallon approx. not sure whether to mix kocide at this time. Captan is also a good spray for leaf curl.
clipped on: 10.16.2008 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 10.16.2008 at 10:21 am

RE: Lots of leaves, no potatoes (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: purplemage on 06.27.2008 at 08:57 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

here's a pic of how potatoes grow. there are also numerous threads here about how they grow and ideas of different ways to grow them...do a search, you'll find lots of good info!

Photobucket

NOTES:

how potatoes grow.
clipped on: 06.27.2008 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 06.27.2008 at 11:38 am

RE: Potatoes for Fall Crop (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: tobaccodog on 06.23.2008 at 03:32 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Wait till mid July (Ga.) cut your seed potatoes and plant. Keep em moist thru those hot Ga. months. You should have a crop within 90 days, you;ll know when the plant's ready to harvest when they start to to die back after flowering. Just go in the hills and fill around. If you are in red dirt Ga. land go with Red Pontiac, if you are in the Coastal Plains you can plant pretty much what you want to, but watch out for leaching in the soil, They are heavey feeders and since this is your first crop don't worry about scab.

NOTES:

Advice for fall potato crop.
clipped on: 06.26.2008 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2008 at 07:19 pm

RE: When to plant Fall Broccoli - Early Dividend Variety (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: farmerdilla on 06.24.2008 at 10:23 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Happyhome, I grow a couple hundred plants each year. The spring crop, I start in a cold frame, the first of February for transplant in March. Fall crop is a little more difficult , I find a semi- shaded spot to start the seeds. Planted this morning. Heat make starting the plants difficult at times. Transplant late August, first of September. Best cultivars for me have been, Galleon, SuperDome, Everest. Although most of the short season cultivars have been acceptable. Worst have been Gypsy and Belstar. Early Dividend, Packman, Green Comet, Barbados, Coronado Crown have been good. Green Goliath, the best of the OP type.

NOTES:

starting brassicas
clipped on: 06.24.2008 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2008 at 01:51 pm

RE: new cuttings (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: fignut on 12.04.2007 at 01:24 pm in Fig Forum

gman, When you start them depends largely on your preference (and conditions).
I find that my conditions for growing indoors aren't good, and I'm fighting to make it succeed. There are humidity problems, light problems, mold problems, gnat problems - you get the picture.
So I prefer to keep the growing time inside to a minimum. I wait until spring is almost upon us, and start my cuttings then. They seem more inclined to cooperate around that time. Pitangadiego's rooting in a bag has been the best method that I've tried. The link is below, and the directions are at the bottom of the page. You can also search the Fig Forum for bag rooting and this will bring up pictures and a lot of discussion on the subject.
It's a good idea to disinfect your cuttings with a 10% solution of chlorine bleach in water before starting. And using soiless mix is also a good idea - you have fewer problems with fungus.
Pitangadiego stresses using media that hold a large amount of air - listen. It will stay moist, but not soggy. When figs are young they are very susceptible to excess moisture. Even when wrapping the cuttings in paper towels for the bag rooting process, make sure the paper is just damp. Don't over-pot - use a small pot to start off with - plastic tumblers are great.
The humidity should be high after rooting and covering the pot with a tent or cup works. I adopted a method described last year using a deep plastic box. I put a rack in the lid of a deep box, put the rooted, potted figs on the rack and then covered with the inverted box. It formed a dome that could be gradually propped open as the cuttings needed more and more air circulation. And by getting a very deep box you could accomodate large cuttings and quite a bit of growth.
If you decide to wait, disinfect the cuttings and store them in a refrigerator crisper drawer. I usually put the dried disinfected cuttings in a ziplock bag, and then put that bag into a larger ziplock bag with a piece of moist paper towel. Others just wrap the cuttings in a damp piece of paper towel and place that in a plastic ziplock.
Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Figs4Fun Bag Rooting Instructions

NOTES:

fignuts rooting advice
Ciao Gman,

You can root them in a ziploc bag. Put them in with a damp paper towel wrapped along the length of the middle. I like to leave a little of the ends sticking from the towel at both ends. After you wrap them with a damp paper towel,put them in a ziploc bag and place in a very warm 75+degrees. I usually put cuttings near a space heater where it gets very warm usually above 80 degrees. The warmer they are the quicker and better they root. Keep in a bright location. Put them in the bag horizonatally. Don't put in a fully sunny location. In a couple of weeks you should see the roots developing. wait till they are well rooted before planting them in a larger pot, maybe say one gallon. Cover the newly rooted fig tree with a clear plastic container to let it hold in humidity. Still keep very warm and bright. Water, but let the soil dry out completely before watering again. It is so easy and very successful.P.S. When you pot up your rooted trees, plant it vertically, but cover about 75% of the branch and leave the tip out. Just make sure you know which way is up on the cuttings. The tip of the branch should be the top of your new tree.
Ciao Ciao, Maggie

clipped on: 12.14.2007 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2008 at 01:47 pm

RE: How to Package a Bare Root Fig for Shipping (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bjs496 on 01.29.2008 at 12:04 am in Fig Forum

Bare root the tree.
Photobucket

Wrap the roots tightly with damp paper towel or newspaper. Photobucket

Then, wrap with foil or seal in a plastic grocery bag to prevent moisture loss.
Photobucket

When you seal the plastic bag or crimp the foil around the trunk, make sure none of the paper is sticking out of the top. I've stored trees like this in my fridge for as long as two months.

Like Jon said... beware of freezing weather.

~james

NOTES:

preparing bare root figs for shipping
clipped on: 01.29.2008 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2008 at 08:53 pm

Easy, inexpensive cold frame

posted by: fredt7 on 02.18.2006 at 07:28 pm in Georgia Gardener Forum

This time of year my greenhouse begins to run over with the perennials I've overplanted. So lately I have built a couple of cold frames to take the overflow. They are cheap and easy to build, so I thought I would post some pictures and instructions in case anyone else would like to build one.

Here's what you'll need:
3- 2x4x8'
2- 1/2"x20' pvc
1- 8'x15' piece of poly film
8- 3" deck screws
1/4" staples

Cut one of the 2x4's in half and cut a 20 degree angle on each end. Drill six 7/8" diameter holes, about 2" deep, in one edge of each of the two remaining 2x4's with one centered 3/4" from each end and four more in each one spaced evenly. Screw the frame together with one screw low in each corner. Cut the pvc into six pieces about 6' long. Install the pipe arches and then drill pilot holes and install the other four screws in the corners. These screws will go through the end pipes and lock the whole frame together.
Spread the plastic out on a flat surface. Turn the frame upside down on the poly. Pull the poly tight and staple it to the bottom of the wood frame. Trim off the excess. Cut holes for ventilation, if desired.

For the shorter cold frame, which is great for sheltering seed flats for winter sowing, buy your pvc in 10' lengths and cut them in half. The angle on the ends of the short 2x4's will have to be increased to about 30 degrees. On the short cold frame I put chicken wire on the ends by screwing a piece of old water hose to the undersides of the two end pipes and stapling the wire and the plastic to these.

For watering, etc., just raise one edge of the cold frame and prop up with a stick.

I plan to take mine apart for off-season storage, but if you want more permanent structures, use pressure treated lumber and uv-resistant poly. Have fun.
Fred

Here is a link that might be useful: Cold frames

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.09.2008 at 01:41 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2008 at 01:41 pm

RE: annie's salsa (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: Coronabarb on 08.25.2005 at 08:53 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Here's the recipe. Note that I cut the vinegar way, way down and pressure cook mine. If you want to HWB it you may, but the vinegar will have to be increased to one cup. You can also sub lemon juice or lime juice for the vinegar for a different flavor (although I tried taking out the cider vinegar altogether and that wasn't right either).

ANNIES SALSA

8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2 cups chopped onion
1 cups chopped green pepper
3 5 chopped jalapenos
6 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
16 oz. tomato sauce
16 oz tomato paste

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Pour into hot jars, process at 10 lbs of pressure for 30 minutes for pints.

Makes 6 pints According to the Extension Service, for BWB, process 15 minutes for pints and 20 minutes for quarts.

Earls variation - "I did a few variations from original recipe"

Used 4 Garden Salsa peppers instead of the Jalapenos; cut the salt in half; used 16 oz. of homemade [heirloom] sauce, and added 1 T. of homemade roasted Jalapeno powder. Salsa to die for!!!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 09:28 pm

RE: Recipe Share... (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Coronabarb on 06.24.2005 at 11:44 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Good Eats Tomato Sauce

20 Roma tomatoes, halved and seeded
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 cup finely diced onion
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped oregano leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped thyme leaves
1 cup white wine

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.
In 2 (13 by 9-inch) pans, place tomato halves cut side up. Sprinkle with oil, salt and pepper, onion, garlic, and herbs. Bake tomatoes for 2 hours. Check the tomatoes after 1 hour and turn down the heat if they seem to be cooking too quickly. Then turn the oven to 400 degrees and bake another 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and process tomatoes through a food mill on medium setting over a small saucepan. Discard skins. Add white wine, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and cook for 5 minutes.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 09:23 pm

RE: Tomato Sauce to Freeze for Winter (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: franki1962 on 08.07.2007 at 02:16 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Hi your recipe sounds good. One thing I did last year that actually turned out well was to half the Roma's and place them on a baking sheet (with some bit of sides, salt and pepper them and bake at 325 or so for ~ 40 min.
This really intensifies the flavor of the tomato. From there, I keep the rendered juice, easily skin the tomatoes and then chop or blend as desired.

I usually add oregano, thyme and basil along with salt, pepper, sugar and a bit of heat via hot powder or chili peppers. Onion, bell pepper, mushroom meatballs and meatball mix added as ground meat are also good additions for me.

Meatballs consists of equal part ground beef, pork and lamb, egg bread crumbs and parmesan cheese to bind.

I usually cook the sauce just long enough to finish off the browned meatballs (45 min to 1 hr)

You can freeze in plastic container or I have frozen in the glass jars the that store sauce comes in. Just clean well and have saran over top of jar then screw down the lid

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 09:09 pm

RE: Brown Turkey Fig in Oklahoma City (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: fignut on 09.22.2007 at 12:06 pm in Fig Forum

avidchamp, It's possible this gentleman's "Brown Turkey" is behaving so much better than yours (better microclimate, older acclimated tree, etc.), but it is also possible that his "Brown Turkey" is not Brown Turkey.
This is an excerpt from an article by A.J. Bullard in the Southern Fruit Fellowship newsletter (Issue #5 1989):
"It so happens that the two fig varieties most commonly grown east of the Mississippi are the two most confused...It seems Brown Turkey got the inside track with figs early on and became the Frigadere of refrigerators so to speak. Nurseries mislabeled Celeste as Brown Turkey - some by honest ignorance and some to sell Brown Turkey figs which customers called for. Some major nurseries didn't know the difference."
"Both varieties are adapted to the Southeast so why does it make any difference?"
"First as my fig Guru Paul Starnes says, don't ask a fig owner what variety he has because he doesn't know but calls it Brown Turkey or Celeste (Sugar) - usually having the varieties reversed."
...."Celeste is the most common fig grown in the Southeast and is somewhat more cold hardy than Brown Turkey....Celeste trees stood that had been hurt very little in over 40 years enduring at least one zero and one 1 degree F ...without much kill-back if any....The owner said the Celeste had never been killed back in its 40+ years but the Brown Turkey, 'got killed back to the ground every few years'. Same exposure, soil type, climate, etc...."
"Brown Turkey will bear fruit the first season after being 'leveled' on sucker growth while Celeste won't. Brown Turkey also will produce a Breba crop if the terminals aren't killed back much in addition to a main crop. Celeste almost never (Dave Ulmer) has brebas to mature....The Turkey brebas are larger than the main crop figs and much larger than Celeste. Turkey brebas are often 'lop sided' but to my taste about like the main crop. Celeste figs are more symmetrical, smaller and sweeter than Turkey."
"One ID I find useful with developing furit is that the scales around the eye of half grown and over Turkey figs are pink or red while those of comparably sized Celeste figs are green. The eye of mature Turkey figs is somewhat open while Celeste is closed and is therefore a better keeper - resisting souring better. Celeste seems to have a longer stem than Turkey but the skin color isn't a whole lot different."
As to leaf shape both are classified as 'grape' leaf .....but a common basic difference exists between the most typical leaf type of Celeste compared with Brown Turkey. Sometimes to see this difference more clearly one must examine sucker growth or new growth resulting from heading back old limbs. Celeste leaves are slightly broader and tend to have more serrations. Turkey leaves are slightly more elongated and tend to have few serrations per lobe.".......
"I find Celeste the M.V.P. of figs and an excellent stock to graft less cold hardy varieties onto to make them hardier."

NOTES:

Is it Brown Turkey or Celeste?
clipped on: 10.19.2007 at 09:23 am    last updated on: 10.19.2007 at 09:24 am

RE: So many figs, but will they ever ripen? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: gwarrington on 10.13.2007 at 08:53 pm in Fig Forum

I heard an explanation today, of why oiling works - the oil blocks the eye and cuts off oxygen to the fig, which causes the latex (sap) to break down into sugar and water (?). The latex would normally break down as the fig ripens but lack of oxygen accelerates the process, and supposedly also results in a better tasting fig. So oiling could be used (and is in Italy) during the season (not just at the end) to produce a better tasting fruit.

NOTES:

oil the open tip of fig while on the tree to promote/encourage ripening. takes about 7 days after applying olive oil to the tip.
clipped on: 10.17.2007 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 10.17.2007 at 09:41 am

RE: What A Season! Now A Question (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: tapla on 10.14.2007 at 05:33 pm in Fig Forum

FTU - I can almost guarantee your basement is not so cold as you might think it is. In USDA zone 6, soil temperatures at 6 foot depths will range from 45-65*, summer - winter. This means that most of the radiating surfaces of your basement, including the floor, are warmer than 45* at their very coldest. Factor in the influence that heating the house causes, and you're probably going to see 50* temperatures (or very close) as the coldest.

That aside - trees pass into a period of quiescence or cold rest after dormancy. During this period, they are fully capable of normal growth. All they need is a few days of soil temperatures above about 45*, and they're off. Light has no effect on this response - it will occur even in total darkness and continue in darkness until all energy reserves are expended.

When trees begin growth in a cold, dark basement, the tree invests energy in foliage that will never provide a return. It cannot make food and serves only to drain the energy reserves that should be going to production of a spring flush of growth at a more appropriate time. This lack of energy to produce a spring flush of growth is why Fortisi's tree's growth seemed slowed for the remainder of the season. By the time the tree recouped sufficient energy to produce abundant foliage, it had already turned a corner in the growth cycle and was at the point where energy was being allocated to storage organs instead of foliage and stem elongation.

So - if you cannot keep your trees quiet and cold enough to inhibit growth, you should give them ALL the light you can so there is at least some food production. From the tree's perspective, keeping them in cool, dimly lit sites is a near total waste of the energy being expended.

Keeping them cold enough to keep them quiet until danger of frost has passed is best for the tree. Providing all the light you can, if the tree happens to begin growth, is a distant second.

Al

NOTES:

over wintering fig
clipped on: 10.16.2007 at 06:56 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2007 at 06:56 pm

RE: Salt Rising Bread (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: readinglady on 01.08.2007 at 05:59 pm in Harvest Forum

It's interesting that the recipe calls specifically for white cornmeal. I wonder why?

I had this bread at home growing up but haven't attempted it since. There's an old book (1960 - not that old, I guess) reprinted by Dover called "Favorite Breads from Rose Lane Farm." I haven't used it for a while but it has some really interesting and wonderful breads. What comes to mind right now is a really nice Flemish Marble bread that calls for sorghum.

But I digress. The Rose Lane recipe calls for the following:

Ferment:
3 medium potatoes
3 tablespoons corn meal, yellow or white
1 tsp. salt
2 T. cold water
4 cups boiling water
1 tsp. sugar

Dough (for 5 large loaves):
The ferment
1 cup warm water
1/2 tsp. soda
2 cups warm milk
4 cups flour
2 tablespoons soft lard
1/2 tsp salt
10 cups flour

The author provides two pages of explicit instructions for the ferment and the bread then closes by observing that it keeps and freezes well. She also says "Salt Rsing Bread, with its tender crumb and toasty malt flavor, is just made to 'go with' homemade jams and jellies."

James Beard's salt-rising bread calls for a potato ferment which is almost identical.

Carol

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 07.11.2007 at 10:57 am    last updated on: 07.11.2007 at 10:57 am

RE: Repot or not, that is my question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: tapla on 05.02.2007 at 07:07 am in Fig Forum

Just a technicality, but I make a terminology differentiation between repotting and potting-up. To me, repotting includes root pruning and should only be undertaken on dormant or quiescent deciduous trees, unless you're very experienced in their after-care. Potting-up on the other hand, is simply moving the tree to a container with a greater soil volume. This, you can undertake at any time, though dormant/quiescent is still the best time. I regard the practice of potting-up as a temporary measure because if continued, it will have an affect on the plant's ability to grow at or near its potential genetic vigor. For the long term, regular repotting with the inclusion of sound root pruning practices will allow you to enjoy a more vital and problem free plant.

Al

NOTES:

potting up - do not cut roots

repotting - trim roots and move to larger pot.

clipped on: 06.22.2007 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 06.22.2007 at 10:15 am

RE: Herman...Pinching Fig Question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: herman2 on 06.12.2006 at 09:30 pm in Fig Forum

You pinch the Tip of the old branches or the top if you want to make the tree grow side branches,and you pinch the new growth branches if you want to induce earlier fruitting.
Hope This will make you figure it out.If not just Google the site i am indicating above.Regards

NOTES:

pinching fig tips
clipped on: 06.17.2007 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2007 at 10:42 pm

RE: Transplanting Brown Turkey Fig (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bjs496 on 07.12.2006 at 02:13 pm in Fig Forum

Hi Beanhead,

I'm sorry, I didn't see this post the other day. I had a PP presentation for prepping trees to removed from the ground, however, my harddrive has crashed since then and the friend whose external I backed up to, is out of the country. I will try to find it again and send it to you.

Basically the process involves root pruning the tree to encourage more root growth from the base. I did this to one of my trees at the beginning of this year. I started on one side about 16 inches from the trunk. I waited a week and did the opposit side. A week later one of the perpendicular sides and then the opposit side of it.

The instructions were to drive a spade down to sever the roots about a month (if I remember correctly) before transplanting. I was planning on leaving my tree in for the entire season, so I removed the soil around the tree to not let the roots re-grow beyond the cut. After it finishes fruiting, I will start removing more soil until the root ball is about the size of the pot I'm going to put it into. Also, I will air layer/prune many of the limbs.

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NOTES:

clip roots on one or two sides of fig tree to encourage root development close to the trunk. Just use a spade to sever roots which are shallow and spread like tomatoe roots. do this a month or more before moving the tree
clipped on: 05.23.2007 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 05.23.2007 at 10:15 am

RE: Please Help!!! First time home owner, being overtaken in weed (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: texas-weed on 03.08.2007 at 10:47 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I don't see any major problems here. Some of the weeds in your pics are Goose Grass, Henbit, Plantain, and Bull Thistle, all common winter annuals.

The good news is they will all go away with the heat of summer. There is a lot of things yu can do now to get rid of them. However do not use Round-Up this late in the season.

Mechanical removal is just like it sounds, bend over and pull them up.

If that does not suite you or too many, use a post-emergence combination product that contains 2-4-D, MSMA, and Dicomba like Trimec.

As stated wait till you see the Bermuda turn green before you fertlize.

Other than that, just water, mow, and fertilize.

To seed Bermuda you have to wait until the soil warms up to 70 degrees. Not sure about your area, but more than likely May sometime.

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clipped on: 03.09.2007 at 06:59 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2007 at 06:59 pm

RE: Please Help!!! First time home owner, being overtaken in weed (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: okcdan on 03.08.2007 at 02:11 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Personally, I use a weedhound this time of year to remove the weeds from my bermuda. As evidenced by your pictures, the weeds are extremely easy to see & identify while your bermuda is still sleeping. Most of those weeds in your pictures are easily removed with the weedhound, and it can be found at most big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes) for around $20.00; take a look at this thread in the organic lawns forum to observe folks opinions on how easy it is to use.

Don't put down any fertilizers until your bermuda starts to green up. Any fertilizers put down now will cause your weeds to grow more! So, wait until your lawn starts to green up then begin to do fertilizer applications.

To best keep the weeds at bay is to keep your lawn as dense as possible. For bermuda, there's three basic simple rules:

Mowing - Mow frequently (at least twice a week) and keep it very short (1/2" to 1" tall.) Keeping it short will make it most dense and a reel mower is best for this purpose.

Watering - Water deeply and infrequently. No more often than once per week, but at least an inch of irrigation at once. Watering deeply allows the top of the soil to dry out killing off shallow rooted weeds.

Fertilizing - During the growing season, every 30-45 days with 1lb of N. The type of fertilizer used is less important than the frequency & fertilizing is less important than the two items above.

My 2 cents

Good day, Dan

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clipped on: 03.09.2007 at 06:53 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2007 at 06:53 pm

RE: Need Growth Habit Info. on a Few Tomatoes (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: hoosiercherokee on 01.21.2007 at 11:03 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

>>"I need to decide which ones may be grown in containers (10 - 15 gallon) and which may be bumped to the slighly shady side of my garden (4-5 hours sun). I recognize that most tomatoes can be grown successfully in a large pot, but I'm looking for ideal conditions and peak performance."<<

Lime Green Salad ~ Grew 4 in the ground and two in 5-gallon containers in 2006. The ones in the ground got abouty 2 feet tall and 2.5 feet wide without cages or stakes and were very productive. The ones in the containers were somewhat smaller and less productive. However, with larger containers or more careful watering and feeding, I think you could do better than I did in containers and free up some space in your dirt rows.

Brandy Boy: Grew this one in a homemade grow bag in 2006 ... about 65 pounds of rotted manure in a 40 kilo burlap coffee bean sack. With 6 - 7 hours direct sun, it got about 6 feet tall and exhibited controlled, fairly compact but indeterminate growth for most of the season before getting rangy in September when the sun got lower on the horizon. The grow bag was laid directly on the turf lawn and was plenty of medium for this plant ... with one or two doses of liquid fertilizer, it produced very well.

Juane Flammee: Same as Brandy Boy ... grew it in a homemade grow bag with very good results. It did not get quite as tall or as rangy as the Brand Boy.


Earl's Faux: Grew this in compost ammended dirt in a strip garden up against the southwest wall of my house at the end closest to a large shade tree. At this location in the three preceeding years, Better Boy and Jet Star did miserably possibly due to shortened sun exposure (?). But Earl Faux did extremely well here with about 6 hours of full sun exposure. But I can't imagine growing it in a container. It produced rampant growing tips and lush foliage and toppled over an 8-foot wooden stake with 2-foot driven into the ground. I had to rig a tripod to support it.

April,

What I did last summer to accomodate 12 more varieties was to lay down a long line of homemade grow bags right on top of the grass lawn. Go to a farm supply or feed store and get some large, heavy warp burlap bags they'll have for farmers to bag up loose shell corn, feed, etc.

The ones I got for 99c each were salvaged coffee bean bags from Colombia that were marked "40 kilo." Then I got a pickup load of composted horse manure that included the stall bedding, etc. and shovelled each bag about 3/4 way full.

Then fold over the top of the bag and lay it flat on the ground with the folded top under to hold it closed. Line the bags up in a long single line with the bottom of one bag snugged against the top of the preceeding bag to keep the tops shut. Reverse the direction of the last bag in the line so its top faces in toward the others in the line.

Drive a wooden tomato stake through each bag for support. Cut a cross in the top middle of each bag and plant one seedling in each bag. You might want to liquid fertilize the bags a couple of times like at the beginning of blossoming and during a large fruit load. I used Miracle Grow tomato food and Epsom salts in a watering can.

Late in the fall, after the burlap had rotted and fallen to pieces, I built a low raised bed around this line of grow sacks and loaded in my mulched leaves and I'm gonna top that off with more horse manure for a new raised bed.

Next spring, I'm gonna line up 12 more sacks for a new Sack-O-Sheist garden. It's simple and it works.

Bill

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clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 01:31 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 01:32 pm

RE: Need Growth Habit Info. on a Few Tomatoes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sautesmom on 01.20.2007 at 01:04 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Of the ones I've grown of the six below the line, my opinion based on how big or bushy the plant gets:
Yes in containers: Flamme.
Maybe: Cherokee Chocolate, Galina
Way too big: Brandy Boy

Carla in Sac

NOTES:

size and growth habit of tomatoes for 2007 season.
clipped on: 01.21.2007 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 01.21.2007 at 08:11 am

RE: Top my Plants Already?? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: torquill on 06.21.2006 at 07:54 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Carver obviously never grew the tomatoes I've been dealing with. There are greenies four feet up and higher, and the plants are still flowering at over five feet. Staking changes the rules, of course, but I'm not sure it changes them that much.

I haven't yet had the problem of tall tomatoes, though I hope to get there this year; my weave system goes up to about 6' max. After that... well, I'll probably try to tuck some stems back in and let the rest flop over as they will.

The whole thing about trimming the top to stop growth never made sense to me. I've heard of folks who flat-top "hedged" their plants and ended up with more fruit than ever. I think it's really a matter of taking off small green fruit (at the top) in time for the plant to slow down for the season and stop blooming, so that all that's left is the bigger fruit. If you have 4 months left, those babies aren't slowing down.

I'd say prune them as you feel is necessary, and give them a little shot of fertilizer if you think they need it. They'll start popping the buds at the leaf nodes below where you cut, and fill in even more. Truth be told, it's very difficult to stop a tomato plant from growing, particularly when it has a good head start like that.

Good for you for growing maters in the front yard. About the only vegetable I've found that always sets off the HA people is corn, because it's recognizeable -- at least you can pass off tomatoes as ornamental Solanum lycopersicon plants. ;)

--Alison

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clipped on: 06.22.2006 at 09:55 am    last updated on: 06.22.2006 at 09:55 am