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RE: Need Help Choosing a Gold Wall Paint Color (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sfamarchi on 07.09.2007 at 01:40 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here some info that might be useful when choosing decor color.. It from the site www.mediterranean-lifestyles.com

...Your preferred hue will be an ideal point of departure. Pick up a color wheel at any craft store, and use it to find a shade that will compliment your favorite color. Begin by determining to which color family your preferred color belongs, in other words whether it is a primary, secondary, or tertiary color. While the primary are the hues red, blue, and yellow, and the secondary are orange, green, and purple, tertiary colors are the shades turquoise, lime, gold, carnelian, plum, and cobalt. Combine colors that belong to the same color family for a look that is fabulously put together. When working with tertiary colors, select any three colors that sit at equal distances from each other on the color wheel. Soften the look by using varying intensities of your chosen colors. For example, walls can be painted a neutral, but they may also be tinted a pale gold, or some other light version of a color in your scheme.

Here is a link that might be useful: Decorating with Color: 5 Tips for choosing decor color

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clipped on: 01.09.2008 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 01.09.2008 at 08:41 am

RE: Should Marble be sealed immediately? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 10.13.2007 at 06:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Miracle 511 Porous Plus.

That's one, but not the porous plus. Instead, try the 511 Impregnator. For marble, it'll do just as good a job at half the price of the PP. Others to look for would be Aquamix Sealers Choice 15, or Stone Tech Impregnator Pro.

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clipped on: 12.12.2007 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2007 at 10:57 pm

RE: Flooring Choices in 1900 era home (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kimkitchy on 12.05.2007 at 11:52 am in Old House Forum

I love the pictures in this brochure. Some of them are pretty elaborate, but there are simpler patterns too. HTH.

We also have a hybrid house. The overall "shape" is clearly a bungalow (1 1/2 story, oriental hat roof, porch) but the details are victorian (door hardware, decorative gable shingles). Nary a craftsman nor mission element to it. I think these "split personality" houses can be fun because you can do a lot of different things that are still in keeping with the spirit of the house.

Here is a link that might be useful: tile brochure

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clipped on: 12.09.2007 at 05:47 am    last updated on: 12.09.2007 at 05:47 am

RE: High Gloss Paint for front door (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paintguy on 11.24.2007 at 11:44 pm in Paint Forum

Ahhh you are talking about Fine Paints of Europe for sure. Yes, nothing we make here in the US can duplicate that finish. I haven't used it for years but I think what you want is Hollandac Brilliant which is high gloss. Look out though....it is oil based and about $95 for a eurogallon, if that is a word. A eurogallon is less than an americangallon.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fine Paints of Europe

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clipped on: 12.04.2007 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2007 at 09:34 pm

Finished period kitchen - 1925 Craftsman Bungalow

posted by: tito on 12.02.2007 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am thrilled to finally be able to post photos of our finished kitchen. Most of the work was done last December and January, but it took until September to get around to installing the backsplash. Id have posted sooner, but about a week after the backsplash was finished, we made an offer on a new house so Ive been busy dealing with the buying/selling/moving process. Were heartbroken to be leaving our new kitchen (and our house in general), but Im planning to recreate much of it in our new house which was built in 1921.

Here are a few before pics:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Heres what the kitchen looks like now:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

We tried to be true to the period of the house (1925 craftsman bungalow) without being rigid about it. In our effort to make the kitchen somewhat authentic, we kept the original floors, light shades, and built-in ironing board. We also chose inset cabinets and polished nickel hardware. No one would mistake it for the original kitchen, but it does feel like it belongs. We couldnt have done it without help from countless posters on this forum. Thanks for all the help.

Here are the details on the new kitchen:

Floors refinished original fir
Cabinets Brookhaven Louisburg
Cabinet latches Crown Hardware (polished nickel)
Countertops Soapstone
Backsplash Subway Ceramics
Faucet Cifial Highlands Wall-Mount (polished nickel)
Sink Rohl Fireclay single bowl
Light fixtures Original shades in new fixtures from Rejuvenation
Undercabinet lighting Pegasus xenon pucks
Paint Benjamin Moore Weston Flax

Appliances:

Dishwasher - Bosch Integrated 4 cycle SHV46-C13UC
Range - Bosch Integra Pro Electric Range HEI7282
Range Hood - Zephyr Hurricane
Refrigerator - Fisher & Paykel E522B

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clipped on: 12.04.2007 at 06:27 am    last updated on: 12.04.2007 at 06:27 am

RE: Flooring Choices in 1900 era home (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jegr on 11.28.2007 at 08:57 pm in Old House Forum

The linoleum could have been original! The scale is right for the early 1900's.
You can consider ceramic tile for your entry way, also laid in an intricate pattern called 'encaustic tile'. The tiles are about 2"x2" set with a dark border. They are available today. You could use an 'oriental' area rug (they were often called Axminster or Belgium - I think the name refers to the looms used) with a border and flowers in the middle. You could also use slate or quarry tile or even sisal. It depends upon the style and sophistication of your house and your preferences.

The best book for reference is 'Floor Coverings for Historic Buildings' Von Rosensteil and Winkler, Preservation Press, 1988. Or try to find a copy ( library loan?) of 'Elements of Style', Calloway and Cromley, Editors, Simon and Schuster. I have the 1991 edition; there are be others.

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clipped on: 12.02.2007 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2007 at 05:10 pm

RE: Checklist For Granite Installation? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: divastyle on 07.25.2007 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

When deciding on a fabricator:
-  See the installer's work, especially the seams;
-  Talk about what they do to make the seam really tight and smooth.

Fabrication/Pre-Install
-  Post pictures for the TKOed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

Installation
-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKOed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!

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clipped on: 11.27.2007 at 06:07 am    last updated on: 11.27.2007 at 08:54 am