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RE: Hands-free opening for trash pull-out (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: poorowner on 02.01.2010 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is what I found out. The servo drive unit has a 100lb capacity. That is powerful enough to push out drawer with a couple of cast iron dutch oven.

Also, the initial cost for a kit is around $300-$400 depending on where you look, but you do not need a kit for each drawer. You can add additional drive unit to the power supply from the kit. So I am looking at around $400 to motorize my 2 pullout units, one for recycle and one for trash.

I am still curious about the noise, and it only pushes out the drawer by a short distance, the rest might rely on momentum or you to pull it all the way out.


clipped on: 04.25.2010 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2010 at 05:36 pm

RE: LED vs Florescent in kitchen...which one? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: amysrq on 11.25.2009 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

I also have the CREE LR6 in my house, but my ceilings are only 8 feet. I am very sensitive to color rendering (CRI) and have only found one fluorescent bulb that I can live with, the Reveal CFL. The color with the LEDs is superb. Not blue, not too bright. Just love them and can't recommend them highly enough.

As for newness of the technology, I put mine in last summer (2008) and have had no issues. The lighting store I bought them from said I would have issues with dimming them -- the dimmers at that time hadn't "caught up" to the technology or something like that. So, we didn't put in dimmers and frankly, I don't miss them.

CREE also has a smaller LED lamp, maybe a 4" or 5", that's available now. Mine are pretty unobtrusive though, even at six inches.


clipped on: 11.25.2009 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 11.25.2009 at 10:55 pm

RE: Honed marble countertops 3 years later? Photos? Experience? (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: erikanh on 09.14.2009 at 08:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have honed Carrera. I've had very good results using Barkeeper's Friend, water and a scrubbie pad to remove all my noticeable etch marks. I learned about this method from the Vermont Quarries website (they suggested Comet, but I use BKF) and was very pleasantly surprised to find it really does work.


clipped on: 11.22.2009 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2009 at 11:44 pm

RE: Dosing for borax, oxy, and powdered detergents with FLs (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: happymomof2kids on 08.31.2009 at 08:22 am in Laundry Room Forum

My usage doses.

Oxi-no more than a quarter of a cup and that is for heavy soil.

Borax and washing soda-never more than 1/8 cup (2Tbsp), but I usually only need 1 Tbsp

STPP-1 to 2 Tbsp depending on size of load. Even less for small loads.

Charlie's Soap-full Tbsp scoop for large loads and cut back if loads are smaller. Anywhere from 3/4 of a Tbsp scoop to 1/2 a Tbsp scoop.


clipped on: 10.01.2009 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 10.01.2009 at 12:24 am

Hot Water-energy free

posted by: LazyPup on 11.08.2005 at 09:07 pm in Renewable Energy Forum

I just completed a consulting job to design the Plumbing system for a friend who is building a new home in Arizona.

He is building a 4br 3-1/2 bath with walkin shower and soaker tub in the master bath.

The targeted design parameters were:
1. Instant on hot water at all locations.
2. Maximum water conservation
3. Maximum fuel economy for heating the water.

The end result,,100gal of on demand hot water available at all times, recirculation loop for instant on hot water, (which will eliminate the cold water normally wasted as we wait for the hot to arrive at the fixture) and all of the hot water being heated by heat recovery from his AC system while reducing the operating cost of the AC at the same time.

My first prototype of this system was installed in a 3br in Pensacola, Fla 5 years ago. We initially installed that system in May and the following November when the weather cooled off the homeowner called me to say his water heater was not working. Upon examination we discovered that we had never attached a gas line to the water heater, thus the heat recovery system had met 100% of his demand for the entire AC season.


clipped on: 09.19.2009 at 06:40 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2009 at 06:40 pm

Cabinets are in~Progress photos

posted by: katieob on 08.29.2009 at 03:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

The cabinets went in this week and I love them! Some moulding & trim need to be finished, but here's how it's looking:







Next up: Paint, vent hood, backsplash, stools, finish floors...

Thanks for looking!


clipped on: 09.02.2009 at 10:46 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2009 at 10:47 pm

RE: Water Softener: Kinetico vs. Ecowater vs Culligan and other ? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: smarge on 03.30.2008 at 09:59 am in Plumbing Forum

Hi, just a homeowner here w/nothing to sell; just a suggestion you might consider.

I am installing a new water system in my "new" (renovated) house (moving in in May, hopefully!) and here is what we are doing.

We have well-water for our outdoor faucets so not an issue, but I certainly would have bypassed them if it was via our town water.

For our potable water (town source) we are installing a major Aquasana whole house filter first off the main. Why? B/C I am what my DH calls a "water snob" and only drink bottled water or extremely well-filtered tap water. Our town water is supposedly perfectly fine to drink, so our filter is probably overkill, but I feel better doing it anyway. From the water filter, we are having two branches.

One will go to the softener, which will then feed conditioned water to the majority of the plumbing in the house. Sending filtered, chlorine-free water through the softener is better for the softener resins (extends their life) and is more healthful for your family since chlorine is harsh on skin and hair, and when airfied in water mist, is not healthy for you to breath!

The other (non-softened water) will supply filtered water to the following devices in my kitchen;
* a water chiller and
* an instant hot (both of these will go to a small dual temp faucet at my kitchen sink for drinking and cooking water)
* my fridge ice-maker
* my Miele Excela DW, which will soften the water only to the degree it determines is needed (approx 5 grains of hardness is best for use w/dw detergetns). (I have had major etching on my glassware in my current home due to very hot water and long cycles in zero-hardness water. Lots of threads about this issue in the Appliances section if you are interested.)

This way, we minimize the amount of extra sodium we consume while still enjoying the wonderful benefits of softened water for our hair, skin and plumbing fixtures.

Hard water is water that is full of minerals that are GOOD for you and drinking distilled water (reverse osmosis) denies your body of a major source of minerals your body needs. It is better for you to drink hard water than RO water.

Just something else for you to consider as you contemplate your investment in optimal water for your family!

Best wishes!

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to Aquasana WH filter if you are interested


clipped on: 06.07.2009 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2009 at 09:35 pm

RE: Soft Water/Warter Softener Questions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: aliceinwonderland_id on 09.08.2006 at 02:05 pm in Plumbing Forum

If you don't like the feel of the hard water but want to save appliances, only soften the water going to your hot water tank. That way some hardness will be added back to your shower water and you will cook with non-softened water (who in their right mind would want coffee made with softened water?) and you really only need to have the hot water softened anyway. Hardness (calcium and magnesium) have a reverse solubility curve, meaning they fall out of solution when heated, rather than dissolving when heated like most things.


clipped on: 06.07.2009 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2009 at 08:25 pm

Couldn't wait to show y'all!

posted by: farmhousebound on 11.22.2008 at 10:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, we started a few months ago on Phase I of the remodeling project on DH's grandparents farmhouse - so far so good. DH gets to stay at the farmhouse during the week (he's retired) while I get to visit on the weekends. My hood got mounted - still a lot of trim work to finish out around it and the stove is on a dolly until we are ready to finish out floor which will be after the first phase, then painting and trim work by DH and I. Excuse the mess, unfinished stuff, . . . but I couldn't wait to show y'all my hood and stove as I can starte to "see" my vision of my kitchen starting to take shape. Let's see if this works!

Chambers stove w/ Modern Aire Hood

Okay, since that looks like it might have worked, I am also going to attach a copy of the outside - the right side (as looking at the picture) and a 13' addition along the back are the new rooms--a master BR/BA and extension of kitchen and of the den. When I get to retire, I want to be able to take in golden retriever seniors and continue to help out with Adopt-a-Golden Rescue--thus, the golden retriever weathervane on top of the new cupola (sp?). We plan on naming the farm "Olde Gold Retreat".

Soon-to-be Olde Gold Retreat/" border="0" alt="Golden Weathervane">


clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 12:06 pm

RE: BR almost finished; pls help with shower enclosure decision (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marisany on 09.13.2008 at 03:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Lauren, our bathrooms are so similar in size and layout! I think I see the places for the toilet and sink. I love your tile, with the black strip. I started out wanting this, but then decided to go with warmer colors. I'm still going back and forth. What is your floor?

I don't have the option of putting a fan/vent in the shower. The ceiling is already finished and tiled. There is one just above the toilet. I tried to plan everything ahead, but did not do enough or anticipate everything.

I'll be interested in hearing what options you are given. How far is the front of your toilet from the shower glass? I have been talking with another company, and I'll try to have them come in next week. Will keep you posted.

Thank you, luluk and jomama! The paint color is BM Everlasting. It's one shade lighter than Stone House, a wonderful color. I have a few other threads here agonizing over the color. I considered changing it, and looked at about 6 other samples. But my artist friend came over and told me to leave it, so I did. It's a great color, I just thought that I needed something warmer to go with the detail strip, and something darker for more contrast.

The bathroom floor is Durango limestone, 12"x12". The shower floor is the same stone in 1"x1" mosaic. The field tiles are Grazia Essenze in Magnolia. This is an Italian machine-made tile that looks hand-made (to me, at least). Their sizes are smaller - 5"x5" and 2.5"x5". The detail tile is from Quemere, a small company in Port Chester, NY, that makes a large variety of very beautiful tiles. The pieces I chose are available in about 36 colors. This tile is available at Rye Ridge Tile in Port Chester and TileAmerica in Stamford (and probably other locations).

The toilet is Toto Promenade, round front, in Cotton White. The sink is Porcher Pomezia, 24" width. All hardware is Rohl Country collection, polished nickel. I wanted levers instead of cross handles, but my friend told me that they would be too large for my small sink. I wish I'd gotten them anyway!

The sink, toilet, and Rohl hardware were all ordered at very good prices from They were very helpful - for example, I had a hard time figuring out exactly what I needed for the shower. They knew, and sold me a kit that contained everything, including roughs.

The things that are not up yet are towel racks/rings, medicine cabinet from Restoration Hardware.


love the sink and hardware!
clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 10:29 am

BR almost finished; pls help with shower enclosure decision

posted by: marisany on 09.12.2008 at 05:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

At long last, the major work on our bathroom renovation is done. I am very grateful for all the help I've received on this forum, both from answers to questions I've posted, and from searching existing posts.

This is not the official "before and after" thread, but I do have some near-final photos. I have not yet ordered the shower enclosure. I still have to hear from one company, but so far it comes down to two possibilities. First I'll post a few photos:

Hardware end of shower enclosure:



Other end of shower enclosure:

Looking into bathroom; shower is just behind door:


And a couple of photos of sink and toilet (radiator will be framed in and painted white; a few things still missing):



The bathroom is VERY small. The shower is 5' long and about 30" wide. Notice that the window frame comes into the shower area. I had the door molding cut off, but decided to leave the window molding intact. This means that there will be a gap between the end of the glass shower enclosure and the far wall. I know that there may be a little water getting out. The open end complicates the design of the shower doors.

The plan is to have a stationary panel, about 36" wide, attached right along the door molding. Hinged to it will be a swinging door, about 19" wide. This will leave an opening of about 5". I have been given two options, so far. One is to have the stationary panel attached by u-channels on 3 sides (floor, wall abutting door molding, ceiling), with the swinging panel attached by glass-to-glass moldings. The fixed panel will be almost 8' high (height to ceiling), and the swinging panel will be lower, maybe 6' high. I am worried that there will not be enough air circulation, and moisture will be trapped in the hardware end of the shower, because there is no opening above the fixed panel.

The other option is to have a header going all the way across at a height just above the window molding (about 7'4" high). Attached to this will be the stationary panel. The swinging panel will be attached top and bottom by pivot hinges (more attractive than glass-to-glass hinges). The swinging panel will have to be as high as the fixed panel (about 7'4"). I am worried about air circulation here, too.

Any opinions on which configuration would be better? (Or less bad, I know I have no really good options).


clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 10:27 am

RE: TV Over Fireplace: Please Show Me How You Designed Yours, Tha (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: jen4268 on 09.16.2008 at 05:10 pm in Building a Home Forum

Here is a picture of my "hidden" tv- we just moved into the space after a renovation. The 50 in tv is behind the picture above the fireplace. We have no issues with the height at all, and actually prefer it up there.


The picture frame is attached to a box and it has a remote control that lifts the frame up out of the way.


clipped on: 09.16.2008 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2008 at 05:25 pm

RE: Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: rhoda_dendron on 07.19.2007 at 12:36 pm in Building a Home Forum

I prefer the air jets for the following reasons.

1. Bath oils/products don't affect it.
2. Whirpool jets blast in one (several) spot on your skin
which I find makes my skin itch. Air jets give an all
over massage (like fingers tapping lightly up and down your skin in a pleasant, soothing way)
3. My air jet tub has the ability to have the motor in a remote location (mine is in the basement below). This makes for a quieter bath.
4. You don't need to cover the air holes with water to have a bath even with the jets on. (which you must do in a whirpool, or you will burn out the motor) You can have a bath with the air jets going in little more than an inch of water. (But even if the water goes below the air holes, you will just get air blowing out the holes-no damage to the motor. In fact, 5 minutes after stopping the motor the tub automatically blows out the tubes making for a very hygienic tub)

The only thing I would do differently next time, would be to indulge in a higher priced tub (with back jets possibly).
I justify the expense by the fact that I don't need an outdoor spa when I have this tub!

Please don't get me wrong! Whirpools are wonderful also. I make a point of booking a room in Florida with a very nice oval whirpool tub. It is a pleasant experience, and if you are committed to a whirpool tub already, I wouldn't worry about it!


clipped on: 09.05.2008 at 04:30 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2008 at 04:30 pm

RE: Life with soapstone--patina pictures galore (Follow-Up #53)

posted by: vjrnts on 08.06.2008 at 09:12 am in Kitchens Forum

I've had my soapstone for 13 months now. I hardly ever wax it anymore; when people are coming to see the kitchen I do, but mostly I just wipe it down. I never get the water marks that Francey is suffering with, and I have plenty of little scratches and marks, but they don't bother me and they don't detract from the beauty of the stone. I have very busy stone, though, for soapstone, with lots of veins and serpentine deposits. (Santa Rita Venata, M. Tex.)

I would choose soapstone again in a second. I completely love it.


clipped on: 08.07.2008 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2008 at 09:44 pm

RE: I'm FINALLY painting the cabinets (will it ever end?) (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: bayareafrancy on 08.06.2008 at 06:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you rm! Your kind words always make me feel better when I'm utterly worn out!

And thank you mom2! The yellow is Benjamin Moore Barley. It took forever to settle on that color. I wantd a soft yellow that was vintage looking (i.e. a little bit "drab" with some grayish undertones). And it does have that look under SOME conditions. I wish someone could invent a paint that stays the same color in any form of light. At night, with the lights on, it looks brighter than I wanted.

The walls. The walls. And the trim. Oh, the choices. I'll link to my yellow inspiration kitchen below (can't figure out how to post a pix from another website directly in the body of the text). In this picture, the walls are the same yellow as the cabs, and the windows/trim appear to be a creamy white color. I don't quite want to go that route, mainly because my window is right above my future white subway tile. And I like the look of colored trim next to the white subways. It has been white all along, and I never preferred the lack of contrast.

Ideally, I want the baseboards a traditional dark tannish color. But then what about the door frames and windows? Same dark tannish? Maybe. But I'm probably going to do the walls a very pale yellow (the color at the top of the card that has barley on it). And then I would have dark trim against light walls (with cabinet color in the middle). And I'm just not sure about that.

Sooooo, walls several shades lighter than cabs, and all trim either the same as the cabs, or darker. Once I get the cabs done, I'll put splotches on the wall, and trim, and see how it looks. Another reason why this is all soooooo slooooow. Choices!

My other favorite kitchen color is vintage drab green. I had that in my old kitchen, and I might do this one that way in 8-10 years.



Here is a link that might be useful: Inspiration yellow


clipped on: 08.06.2008 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2008 at 11:03 pm

RE: Kitchens in Action! (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: imrainey on 08.01.2008 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

This gazpacho is about the easiest thing to make that I know of and yet it has great flavor and it's just right for summer eating.

It looks great if you mix it up in a tall glass pitcher but I did it directly into the juice bottle to emphasize how simple it is. Put olive oil and red wine vinegar into tomato juice. I use 2 tbs each per quart of juice.
Step 1:  drink a glass of tomato juice

Chop tomato, sweet onion, seeded cucumber (I used Persian cukes; if you don't know them look for them!), jalapeo and avocado fine. You want a bit of garlic too. I use pured garlic from Alice Water's recipe that I keep on hand all the time. If you don't have some soft roasted or pured garlic a bit of granulated will do just fine but you don't want to bite into raw garlic, if you know what I mean.

While I'm chopping, I chop up extra onion, cuke and pepper for the next bottle. It keeps fine in the fridge in a tightly capped container. Save the tomato and avocado chopping for when you're ready to make more. The tomato and avocado don't keep as well as the other veggies but the avocado that's in the tomato juice will keep just fine in that acidic environment.

Put a wide-mouth funnel in the neck of the juice bottle and grind in some fresh pepper. Then load in the veggies. Close the bottle and shake it. Done!
Feed them into the bottle and you're done.

Serve it with a lime wedge and a dollop of sour cream. A shrimp makes a great garnish too. In fact, a local Mexican restaurant serves their shrimp cocktails this way. Yum!


clipped on: 08.03.2008 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2008 at 06:26 pm

RE: Kitchens in Action! (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: imrainey on 07.31.2008 at 07:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mulligatawny Soup

Original Recipe By: Sara Moulton but I've modified it

2 tablespoon ghee or canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
6 clove garlic, chopped
3 tablespoon fresh ginger root, peeled and grated
1 jalapeo chile, stemmed, seeded and chopped (WASH YOUR HANDS twice as soon as you've chopped the jalapeo. If you touch your face or any moist tissues before you've washed your hands thoroughly, you'll never do it again!)
1 tablespoon ground corriander
2 tablespoon ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 cup all purpose or garbanzo flour (use the garbanzo flour; what you don't use keeps next to forever and it really is a more authentic flavor)
1 3/4 cup red lentils
9 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
1 cup low-fat unsweetened coconut milk (a can is 11 or 12 ounces so I actually use half of it and freeze the second half for the next batch)
2 teaspoon kosher salt (do you think Indian cooks know kosher salt?) (whatever)
1/4 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
freshly ground pepper

Heat the ghee in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger and jalapeo and cook, stirring, until browned, about 12 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, stir in the coriander, cumin and turmeric. Cook until fragrant, stirring, for 45 seconds. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute more.

Pour in about 2 cups of broth and cook with the veggie until they're soft. In a blender (does a much more thorough job than a stick blender and you don't want to bite into a piece of ginger), whirl until as smooth as possible. Return to the pot.

Add the rest of the broth and bring to a boil while stirring. Add the lentils to the thickened broth, lower the heat and simmer, covered, until very tender, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool a bit.

When the lentil mixture has cooled some, puree until smooth using an immersion blender. (I don't; I just cook them down.) Stir in the cilantro. Return to the heat and bring back to a medium temperature.

Whisk in the coconut milk, lemon juice, and salt. Season to taste with pepper. Adjust the texture with more chicken broth if you want a thinner consistency.

Really delicious soup that improves with time and is also interesting served cold in the summer. If will separate when it cools and possibly get thicker still but just stir it up adding more chicken broth or water as necessary.

Serve with additional chopped cilantro and lemon wedges.


If you like Indian I recommend the YouTube videos of Manjula. I am just learning Indian cooking myself from what I can find online. We have really excellent Indian restaurants in my area of LA so we go out to have it more than I actually cook it but I'm very interested in learning what I can. But she works slowly, explains everything and makes the process as clear as it can be when you can't be there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Manjula's Kitchen


clipped on: 08.03.2008 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2008 at 06:24 pm

My new 'antique' kitchen....maybe 80% done? Lots of pictures

posted by: arlosmom on 07.24.2008 at 11:07 am in Kitchens Forum

I still have lots to do before my kitchen is completely done, but what's left is all DIY and may take months before we get to it all. Thanks to all on the forum -- my kitchen is so so so much better for what I've learned here.

Background: my husband and I bought our house almost 4 years ago. Built in 1905. Owned by the same family since 1942. Husband and wife raised 5 kids in this house with one bathroom (!) We had been looking for an old house with unique architectural details in un-updated condition. We found it.

Here is the old kitchen (my stove, not the one that came with the house):

old kitchen
only real counterspace in old kitchen
farm sink -- keeping in remodel
old kitchen w/back stairs

I was actually sad to see the old kitchen go. It had only the one built-in cabinet and the cabinet under the sink, no dishwasher and and no counter space, but it was charming and it "hugged" me (AKA: it was really small).

We tried very hard to make the new spaces fit in with our old house. In the new space whenever possible, we used reclaimed and salvaged materials (all of the lighting, doors, hardware and wood flooring are from ebay and architectural salvage stores)...our version of being green.

We turned the old kitchen into our breakfast room and built our addition beyond that. Our addition (first floor) has the new kitchen, a small walk-in pantry, a screened porch, and a powder room.

So here is the breakfast room and our new kitchen (I still need to paint all of the lower cabinets, need to built a microwave shelf, need to put glass in the upper cabinets, etc, etc.):

from kitchen into breakfast room
breakfast room into kitchen

The fridge cabinet has a broom closet. It has doors on the sections with the dog cookies and food, but I took them off to paint them and I haven't put them back on yet. We are keeping our old fridge for now, but I had the cabinet made to accommodate the jennair french door fridge with white floating glass panels like jgarner has (DH now says he thinks the jennair is too "fancy" ggggrrrrr. Oh well...we're out of money for now anyway).

fridge cabinet with broom closet

Past the fridge is a back hallway with a small walk-in pantry to the left (shelves still to be built), a screened porch straight ahead, and a powder room to the right)

arch inot back hallway

door to screened porch
backsplash behind range
spice cabinet
back wall

My husband just re-habbed the center "swoop" from the old sink cabinet and installed it in the new cabinet (obviously it still needs to be painted). He also made the two verticle curving side sections of the cabinet that mimic the curve of the sink. I'll sew a curtain that will be prettier than the dishtowel I have pinned in the center section now.
sink with

Counters are Santa Rita soapstone (last oiled about two weeks ago):



clipped on: 07.27.2008 at 12:28 am    last updated on: 07.27.2008 at 12:29 am

Kerdi Shower

posted by: mongoct on 11.17.2007 at 11:35 am in Bathrooms Forum


There are ways and there are ways. This post shows a couple of ways to do it.

Shower is a walk-in, about 5' by 7'. Door is at a 45 degree angle.

Walk in to the shower and on the short wall to the immediate right are two supply valves, the lower one supplies the wall mounted handheld, the upper supplies an overhead 12" rainshower head.

Moving counterclockwise from that wall, the long wall on the right is on an exterior wall, nothing but tile.

The short back wall has a 2-shelf niche, about 36" wide and 30" tall. The lower niche space is 15" high, the shelf itself is 4" thick, the upper niche space is 11" high.

The last wall, the long wall to the left as you enter, has the wall-mounted hand-held. If I recall, the sliding bar is 40" tall.

Tile backer? I prefer cement board on the walls. Wonderboard or Durock. I used Wonderboard on these walls. The ceiling and niche is done in Hardie, as Hardie is less brittle so for me it's easier to cut into narrow strips to trim out the niche, and not as prone to snapping when installing full sheets overhead.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 11:42 am

RE: Subway Tile-A step up from Daltile,a step down fr Subway Cera (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: beantownrenovator on 06.28.2008 at 10:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi All - I'm on my way, I'm very close to going with an Ann Sacks tile (thanks Dutchy!!), I will report back once decided, but just was looking at this lovely kitchen (link below) and I'm confused with the OP's description/brand of tile...she says its "Daltile: Its Ahnzu 3x6 Artic Ice, Crackle AT112"....I can't find it anywhere, and after the near Masters degree I have in white subway tile, I'm stumped because it looks so much nicer than standard daltile. I'd love to get your ideas if you have a clue. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks as always.

Here is a link that might be useful: lleet's kitchen


clipped on: 06.29.2008 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 06.29.2008 at 10:01 am

RE: Questions for owners of Bosch Nexxt 500 Series washers (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dross on 01.19.2007 at 11:05 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Jo, I see you are also considering the Ge Adora and Whirlpool Duet. These are all fine machines, with the Bosch and Whirlpool 1st tier and the GE a step down. The big advantage of the Bosch is the ability to do a profile wash, something no other large-drum machine currently on the market can do. It also uses the heater in every cycle to maintain washer temperature, a rarity in these machines. The Duet has the advantage of a wider service network and a better cycle selection, and has a bit less plastic in the construction. - DR


clipped on: 06.23.2008 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 06.23.2008 at 10:35 am

RE: Toughest finish for wood flooring? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: glennsfc on 04.30.2008 at 10:04 am in Flooring Forum

It is the denting from dog's nails that will show the most on any wood floor, no matter how they are finished and with what. The satin finishes will show scratching and damage less than the glossier ones.

If site finishing, choose a commercial waterborne (two-part) finishing material, such as those made by BonaKemi, Basic Coatings, Vermeister and a few others. They are the most durable film-forming finishes made today and are totally cured in about seven days.

The Waterlox materials, hardwax oils and all that are fine, but expect more maintenance on your part to keep them looking good.


clipped on: 06.19.2008 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 06.19.2008 at 11:25 am

RE: Anderson v. Jeld-Wen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mightyanvil on 06.13.2008 at 06:59 pm in Building a Home Forum

Double-hungs or casements? It makes a big difference.

Andersen doesn't make any custom colors.

Jeld Wen's Tradition Plus is the old Caradco brand and is priced below Jeld Wen's old Norco and Pozzi brands. Before going that low in the Jeld Wen line up I would try Eagle's aluminum clad window (Andersen's entry into the aluminum clad window market) or Marvin. Marvin makes a superior product with extruded aluminum cladding and I have found it to be cheaper than the Andersen 400 casement recently.

I would not recommend buying any of these brands from Home Depot.


clipped on: 06.13.2008 at 11:22 pm    last updated on: 06.13.2008 at 11:22 pm

RE: Christopher Peacock cabinets (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: igloochic on 05.09.2008 at 07:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Jenna, did you look at Omega Custom? They are high end, but not CP high end :) And all custom. I've been able to do my inset, beaded shaker cabinets with many many custom features for less that $45M (cabinets only). The quality is fabulous and their painted finishes are very very strong! They can easily immitate a CP kitchen if you use a good designer to help with the process.


clipped on: 05.09.2008 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 05.09.2008 at 07:41 pm

RE: Christopher Peacock cabinets (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kelleg on 05.01.2008 at 06:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I found P&F to be reasonable too. I was the one who started this thread b/c I am interested in that look also. I, too, checked with Crown Point. Their bid was close to the one from P&F, but seemed to have fewer bells and whistles built into the bid.

A friend of mine got inset, shaker-looking doors from Brenneman or Brannaman or something like that. I know she really shopped for deals.


clipped on: 05.01.2008 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2008 at 09:57 pm

RE: hex tile questions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: piegirltoo on 04.29.2008 at 02:24 am in Bathrooms Forum

American Universal Corporation imports porcelain hex from Japan. I got the 1.5 inch size, but they also come in 1 inch and 2 inch, I think.

They're shown in lots of showrooms as kind of a no name brand product.

If you call or write American Universal, they will direct you to the distributers in your area. They are gorgeous tiles. I think jejvtr used the same tile in 1 inch.

Here is a link that might be useful: American Universal Corp


clipped on: 04.29.2008 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2008 at 01:45 pm

RE: Michaeloklahoma: your geothermal (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sniffdog on 04.28.2008 at 08:44 am in Building a Home Forum


I just finished a home with a 12 ton geothermal system. cost isn't prohbitive - but there is a higher initial cost when comparing to other traditional hvac systems so you need to stay in the home for a while to break even.

if you compare costs for forced air systems - the duct work is the about the same cost. the GT heat pumps are a more than traditional heat pumps or the combination of gas/AC unit for the same BTU output. There are also additional plumbing costs iside the house - a pump system and PVC pipes that run over to your GT heat pumps. For my twelve ton system (2 x 3 ton and 1 x 6 ton) the delta cost for the GT was $15,000 for parts and labor when compared to LP gas heat and AC compressors providing the same BTU output.

By far the largest delta cost for us was for the loop system. And these costs vary so much by site and specific implementation. I did a horizontal system and digging a 120' x 48' x 6' pit cost a lot more than what we had expected. Doing wells (12 wells at 100' each) would have been about the same cost. We hit a lot of boulders and we had issues moving all that dirt around.

The system works great - is very quiet and ecconomical. We used cellulose insulation in the walls (2x6 studs) and R38 cellulose in the attic. We used some foam in joist cavities and other places where the cellulose would not stick well. All foam would have been better but we found the cost too high and the payback not that great when comparing the cost of the cellulose with the GT system.

Make sure that they seal your house - caulk every nook and cranny on the inside to make sure you keep the air infiltration to a minimum. If you do that, then a cellulose package with good windows & doors will work well with the GT system.

The key to success is making sure you pick an HVAC contractor AND builder that know what they are doing. If the builder has never touched GT then find one who has.

Find a local HVAC team who has done many installs - been in GT for a long time (hopefully your builder already has someone they have used.) Talk to their customers - make sure they provide good installs & good service. These GT systems are wonderful but you need experienced people to design them properly and fix them when they break.


clipped on: 04.28.2008 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2008 at 07:17 pm

RE: Michaeloklahoma: your geothermal (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaeloklahoma on 04.27.2008 at 10:13 pm in Building a Home Forum

The house is 3600 SF (2900 down + 1 big bonus room upstairs). We installed a 5-ton geothermal system, but to keep from getting a 6-ton we chose to install high R-value wet foam insulation, low e windows, etc. Be sure to get a heat gain / loss analysis to correctly compute load / sizing calculations using the ACCA Manual J. After much research, we selected the WaterFurnace Envision series 30EER, 5 COP with 4 dampered zones, 6 return air vents. The system is variable speed and has 4 closed vertical wells that go 250' down into the earth. The unit also will provide about 75% of our hot water by redirecting heated water (byproduct of geo process) to the hot water tank. Our heating bills so far during construction have been very low and I am excited to see how the unit operates in the hot Oklahoma summers.

If you'd like to see some pictures of the unit, check out our home website. Week 6 shows the ductwork install (below slab); week 18 shows the drilling of the wells, and week 19 shows the geothermal unit. Good luck.


clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 10:47 pm

RE: Ricklish, question on intregrated sub zero (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rmkitchen on 04.22.2008 at 12:27 am in Kitchens Forum

zoey -- I know you asked specifically about the Sub Zero but because theyre "fully integrated" I thought it might be helpful (?) for you to see pictures of how we paneled our (separate) Thermador refrigerator and freezer columns. (They are each 30" wide.)

Our cabinetmaker hired the appliance-install guys to install the panels. Hes never worked before with the Thermador units and the appliance-install guys have. As it was, it took them (two strong young men) about three hours to do both of them this morning. But theyre perfect! (albeit not quite done: they still need their toekicks and furniture feet, but that won't be happening for a while, I suspect ...)

(My feelings wont be hurt if you say "this isnt helpful at all" but maybe to malhgold it might be.)

freezer before panel:

freezer after panel:

refrigerator before panel:

refrigerator (from left) after panel:

refrigerator (from right) with panel:

refrigerator open: (yes, that is a cat on the counter!)


clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 09:45 pm

RE: Ricklish, question on intregrated sub zero (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: ricklish on 04.21.2008 at 11:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well - here it is! It's all done except for the toe kick and the apron in front of it.
My GC said 'it wasn't so bad.' Took him about a day and a half. He said the install templates included with the doors would have been perfect for overlay doors. The problem with the inset doors was having enough room above the top of the doors to create the appropriate reveal without exposing the lower panel bracket. He did have the panels on and off repeatedly to get them aligned just so. I think they look great!

Here is the DW panel.
Not what I was expecting (I thought the beading would wrap around the panel like it does on the other doors, but was told that it was virtually impossible to do with the beading around the inset panels without making the panel too heavy for the DW. We have learned to accept it as is.

Big day tomorrow, the replacement cabinets (for the ones that were a smidge too big) are due to arrive tomorrow with my GC. Then I'm getting stoned on Wednesday!! Thursday should be the remaining upper cabs and trim work and Friday is the final poly on the floors. Pics to follow!!

Of course, with all the (minor) delays we've had, I'm not holding my breath. But at this point, I'm cautiously optimistic that I could be vacating my temporary kitchen this weekend!! Yipee!!


clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 09:45 pm

RE: Wood floors in bathroom? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 04.26.2008 at 09:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You folks are too kind.

Here's the pic of the bath with the brazilian cherry, it's a little on the dark side but you can get the idea:



clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 10:15 am    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 10:15 am

Pictures of kitchen... nearly done (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 04.25.2008 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

okay, I think I have it figured out. Here are the pics:

kitchen window

close up of granite

kitchen view from table area


clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 09:52 am    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 09:52 am

RE: Pictures of kitchen.. 85% done (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 04.25.2008 at 11:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you! The granite is honed Ocean Green... it is meant to be a substitute for soapstone which had been my original desire but after visiting three different granite yards, I wasn't able to find any slabs without these dots all over them (looked sort of like leopard spots). Also, around the same time, I saw a pic of GW of rings on the countertop above the dishwasher (I guess from heat venting out of the top of the dishwasher). I haven't a clue where our dishwasher will vent and I don't mind the patina of soapstone, in fact quite like it, but the rings would have been too much for me. I saw this Ocean Green and just loved it. The floors will be stained medium to dark brown.

thanks again.


clipped on: 04.27.2008 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 04.27.2008 at 09:51 am