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RE: Where can I get good, real wood drawer organizers? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: bob_cville on 07.09.2009 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

As several people have confirmed, the drawer dividers I made use the Lee Valley brackets. I also used 1/4" thick 4" wide poplar boards from Lowe's.

So all I needed to do was rip the boards to width (I used a table saw, but you could probably use a circular saw and a straight edge.) And then carefully cut the boards to length (I used a sliding miter saw, but you could also use a miter box and a sharp hand saw, or a square and a circular saw.)

Most of the dividers are about 3 1/2" tall, but for the silverware dividers, I made them about 2" tall to make reaching the silverware easier.

I also considered making frames within the drawer like lowspark did, but I decided that I like the look without frames. Also even if I decide to remove the dividers, the holes made by the sharp prongs on the brass dividers are small enough that they'd probably never be noticed.

NOTES:

see pictures from entire postings. Note making frame of poplar boards
clipped on: 11.15.2010 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2010 at 10:27 pm

RE: Looking for Beeswax Butcher Block Conditioner (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: staticfritz on 10.15.2008 at 12:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

same, i make my own for CHEAP! i found 1:2 or 1:3 ratio of wax to mineral oil worked best

get some triple filtered high purity beeswax on ebay
for example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BeesWax-1-lb-of-Pure-Bees-wax-from-The-Wax-Works_W0QQitemZ270285982352QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270285982352&_trkparms=72%3A1205:39%3A1:66%3A2:65%3A12:240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

and the lightest, high grade mineral oil I could find
http://www.steoil.com/catalog.asp?productgroup=70fg

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.21.2008 at 08:35 am    last updated on: 10.21.2008 at 08:35 am

RE: radiation in granite countertops Part2: response (Follow-Up #73)

posted by: drhans on 06.12.2008 at 09:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Al
Hopefully most readers can see through your verbal diarrhoea and I certainly don't intend to engage you in debate. Most people know what you are about. An educated reader can see that the posts of Al are a mixture of sparse truths (to maintain an element of credibility), half-truths, red herrings, self-beliefs, and downright utter fabrications (to get the readers attention).
Cushty
Concerned about radon from stone? Don't be. Have another read of my original post and follow up with some googling if still unconvinced. But be aware of the downsides of the synthetic material - of aspects that the producers don't disclose and certainly never advertise. I will cut and paste a response that I did several years ago for Debbi to help you make up your mind.
"Recently an inquirer posted the following question to findstone.com:

"I love your site. I think it has helped me crystallize my direction. I'm looking for a stone acceptable for kitchen counter, specifically a food prep area that has properties similar to soapstone or slate, BUT is light, creamy, peachy or beige in color. I found something called Durango Travertine which was exactly what I wanted until I poured lemon juice on it. I am satisfied with the soapstone and slate properties for kitchen use, but I would really like a light color. Could you recommend something? Thank you! Debbi."

Among several answers, one in particular caught my attention, both for its content and the man is coming from, namely Dr. Hans-Dieter Hensel, from Australia, a professional geologist with whom I entertained some correspondence in the past and that I'm proud to consider a (far away) friend. Here it is:

"Dear Debbie, You are clearly not alone in this dilemma - you want a "soft" stone (in different ways) but you do not want it to etch or stain. You obviously know that a marble or limestone in the kitchen is a no-no if you want it to remain in the same condition as when it was installed. These calcareous rock types cannot be effectively protected with sealers against acidic fluids no matter what the salespeople out there try to tell you (sorry, sell you). You appear to have three choices:
(a) choose a dense European limestone and adopt a European mentality (as opposed to American or Australian), use the stone, enjoy the stone, and accept what happens to it in time (which realistically isn't very much unless abused);
(b) choose a beige-coloured granite, e.g. Brisbane Beige, and either seal it or have it resined (better for negligible maintenance). The suggestion for having it sealed or resined is based on its porosity. All beige-coloured granites of the world are beige because they are partly altered (geologically speaking). And they are partly altered because they are more porous (>0.3 wt. %). Because they are more-porous they readily accept sealers and resins which penetrate the microfractures and micropores and so help to protect the surface. The science of sealing porous granite works - unlike the science of salesmanship which tries to seal everything to make a buck today, next year and every other year in the future; and,
(c) if you still can't be pleased with a good quality limestone or an effectively sealed beige-coloured granite you might have to resort to one of those engineered stones that promises 93-95% of quartz and 5-7% of resin, and specks that suggest bullet-proof properties. The reality is that none of them contain that amount of quartz, all of them contain other minerals that are softer than quartz (can be scratched) and some can be chemically susceptible to attack by acidic fluids (e.g. wine, champagne, orange juice, tomato sauce, salad dressing, etc.). Some of these quartz-based products contain as little as 20% quartz (don't believe the blurb). Others contain calcareous shells that are highly reactive to acidic fluids (so read the fine print). Also rarely revealed is the fact that they have a coefficient of expansion of as much as 4 times that of stone. This means that the localized application of heat can lead to thermal shock with the potential for the development of a nice fracture across the kitchen-top (especially if installed over a dishwasher with exposed hotwater piping). They also don't tell you that if your top is exposed to sunlight it is very susceptible to fading (more so for darker colours) as well as cyclic expansion and contraction from day to day. With time, the expansion and contraction will result in delamination from the adhesive and you get the slab bowing up at the ends. Also to be considered is the potential health hazard from the fumes of the resin in units that are often closed up for long periods. This is more serious in units containing large benches that are exposed daily to sunlight, but thankfully only a small proportion of the population is sensitive to these fumes. Now, what are you going to choose? (Dr. Hans)"

About the subject of engineered stone I consider myself ignorant enough not to make any comment -- whether in agreement or disagreement -- with Dr. Hans' follow up. I just felt like reporting it. One thing I can assure you, though: the man is no Mickey Mouse!

Maurizio Bertoli
www.mbstone.com

MB Stone - Education before any sale!

Let me also state loud and clear for all the contributors that I have nothing against the artificial surfaces. I accept them as another product - just as I accept laminate, stainless steel, wood, etc.

What I object to is the need for the artificial surface producers and salesmen to (a) call their product STONE, (b) compare their products with natural stone and present only the negatives of the latter often using the weaker end of the granite spectrum, (c) provide misleading and untruthful specifications, and (d) spend considerable amounts of money on advertising to attempt to discredit natural stone with misleading information campaigns such as the one that resulted in my initial response to this forum.
bluekitobsessed
I'm glad that you have an expert b-s detector. You should be able to easily discriminate and it should be going off quite frequently when reading certain posts.
As for Azul Macaubas - it is a dumortierite quartzite. If you are having a headstone made make a spare for me (a beautiful stone).

Now, many of the posts appear to have missed my comments that it is not difficult for an experienced stone scientist to establish whether a stone is likely to have elevated uranium and thorium contents, and therefore emitting elevated levels of radiation and having the potential to produce the radon and thoron daughter products. Some petrological research, which incorporates a petrographic analysis (examining a polished tile and a 30 micron-thick thin-section under a petrological microscope)is enough to establish (to a high level of confidence) whether that stone, especially granite, is likely to have formed from source material and by geological processes to have concentrated minerals that could give elevated readings. Because of the scale of its natural formation and the relatively small sizes of dimension stone quarries (as opposed to aggregate quarries) a representative sample of that stone is usually sufficient to provide that information. If it is concluded that it is "benign" there is no longer a need to test the slabs. However, as I previously said, there are natural geological circumstances that produce small pockets of "weird" or "unusual" rock types that can concentrate certain minerals that can give elevated readings (usually very localized) of emitted radiation. These rock types need to be identified and scrutinized along the lines that I previously suggested.

As for "in-house" radiometric testing - don't even think about it. It is difficult enough for experts to get it right under ideal conditions. There are far too many parts to this complex equation for most people.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 05:20 pm

interesting research link

posted by: old1880home on 06.06.2008 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

For anyone who doesn't know about archive.org. You can look at archives of websites here. Go to "wayback machine" and type in the site address. For example, you can look up websites of quartz manufacturers that alter their policies on resin pooling in their products. Very interesting!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 05:03 pm

RE: Best advice from this forum (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: evergreendan on 07.20.2007 at 06:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Bluestar range -- had never heard of it before and wouldn't have found it at a regular appliance store. Bought from Eurostoves (local to me) after cooking on it.

Wide / shallow cabinet for William Sonoma ultra-thin step stool. My cabinets go to the 8' ceiling, so I think I'll need this more than in my last kitchen.

Sticking to my vision, but updating my inspiration photo (great feedback from this forum).

GC myself. Just remember that you aren't a repeat customer with your subs, so be prepared for others customers to jump in line in front of you.

Airswitch on disposer. Never minded the wall switch, but now that I have a nice backsplash and an island, its great.

Floodstop on icemaker and washing machine.

And I got the idea from a TV show, rather than this forum, but I put power into the back of 4 drawers, so each family member has a place to charge the cell phone (or camcorder or whatever) out of sight.

I also have a false panel behind a niche so that the power / wallwarts / phone wire / wireless access point is hidden. Only the phone sits out exposed. Similar to the idea above, but using depth.

NOTES:

false panel for electronic wires.
clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 10:14 am    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 10:15 am

RE: What kind of Cabinets with Tigerwood floors? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: alku05 on 04.20.2008 at 02:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have brazillian cherry floors, and chose to do a darker cherry cabinet. It's not exactly the same situation that you're considering, but it may give you some ideas.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our kitchen

NOTES:

note small marble subway tiles.
clipped on: 04.21.2008 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 04.21.2008 at 10:19 am

RE: Can someone help, please? Weary.... (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: rmlanza on 03.20.2008 at 03:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Awww, shucks!
Photobucket

I love photoshop and enjoy playing with people's pictures. I've taught myself and never taken a class so I'm not an expert or anything. But what I did was use the "quick selection tool" to move everything that was on your countertop to a separate document (so I was essentially making a copy of those items), then deleted the items on the original. Then I filled the background with your backsplash tile (had to reduce the size quite a bit), toned down the brightness and then moved everything I'd copied back to their original positions. I also used the healing tool a little to try and get the very squared edges and shadows toned down a bit. I should have shadowed the things on your countertop a little to make it more realistic but my kids just got home from school. If you post a picture of your other tiles, I'd be happy to add those in sometime this evening. But we're going out of town in the morning and I'm trying to get the five (plus 1 large dog) of us all packed up and the laundry done. I won't be online for a few days (in-laws have dial up....really SLOW dial-up!) but I can work on it over the weekend and post pics on Monday if I don't get it done tonight. HOWEVER, I can't imagine another tile with the existing tile. I really think it might be too busy. I have mosaic copper slate in my own kitchen, coincidentally. But I love the tile you chose and think it would be great all over your kitchen! Also, not sure how I'd do the other walls, that might be kind of hard to get into the right perspective. I can skew the tile some but not sure if I'd get all the right angles. Anyhoo, post the tile and I'll try to get to it. Or play around with photoshop a little and see what you can do. It's not that difficult once you get the hang of it. Have fun!

Robin

NOTES:

Photoshop info
clipped on: 04.20.2008 at 11:14 am    last updated on: 04.20.2008 at 11:14 am

RE: Kitchen Saga Update (long, but need yet more help!) (Follow-Up #98)

posted by: sherilynn on 02.24.2008 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

buehl,

I would caution you to read the contract you signed with Expo before you threaten anyone. I have been there and can attest that sometimes the laws are clear as mud.

What you think may be legal, right, and justified may be illegal and give the courts cause to not favor your position should this end up in court. That contract you signed was surely drawn up by legal minds to protect both the third party that did your cabinets and HD/Expo. There very well may already be a remedy in your contract for disputes and how to handle disputes.

Even if things are not being fixed fast enough for you, they have every right to drag their feet if there is not a date certain and financial penalty for delays in your contract. It does not sound fair or right, but everything's legal that is not illegal. It may be immoral to delay fixing your cabinets, but not illegal to drag this out.

I know I would sit back and plan a strategy to succeed to get what I want. I have a few acid tests concerning complaining effectively and getting results. I have not been successful 100% getting things done my way, however, I've won many wars. Here are some ways I have achieved the fastest results.

1. Write down exactly what will satisfy you with Expo. Do not 'think' of a solution to their problems, but verbalize on paper EXACTLY what you want Expo to do. If this means they have to take everything out and start over, then so be it.

2. DO NOT EXPECT TO GET #1, IF YOU DO NOT ASK SPECIFICALLY. If you don't ask SPECIFICALLY, do NOT expect to be satisfied. Simple rule to live and pray by.

3. When you ASK THEM TO FIX, you ARE TELLING THEM THE SOLUTION to THEIR PROBLEMS. Remember in all conversation to identify that this is a problem because of incompetence, or errors, or whatever. Again, be very specific so any district or regional manager can 'approve the re-do'. Do not make people guess or come up with bones to throw your way. This only frustrates everyone. Make a copy of your scope of work and refer to it in all communications. Contantly remind them that "this is their problem and the only solution is....to make you happy."

4. Do not settle for anything less than you ask for unless this, too, will make you happy.

5. Idiom: SQUEAKY WHEELS GET THE OIL. This is a classic, true reality. Put all 'squeaks' in writing, in speech, and in person. Notify local managers, the district managers, and cc the regional manager of exactly what the problems you are having with your local EXPO store and what solutions you are expecting them to perform to fulfill your contract.

6. Idiom: Familiarity breeds contempt. Oh, my, how they will hate to see you coming. Show up regularly and ask for progress reports. SUCK up the manager's time hearing his explanations. SUCK up the time of the district manager on the phone and the regional manager. My Lord knows how local managers HATE to be tattled upon. District managers hate it more.


7. Idiom: Loose lips sink ships. The more people you have talking about your problems with your cabinets at every level, the faster you will see positive results. Sales people will tell the reps. Managers will have to explain to employees on how to handle you. You can get many people to help you. Just show up frequently. Every business has a gossip to keep things turned up and if you befriend a compassionate employee, they may give you info on the store's policies, strategies, and tell you if this has happened to others. If it has, then someone at Expo will realize real quick that they cannot afford to 'keep you around', if you catch my drift. Any ammo you can collect from the help gives you more to share with the district and regional managers. :)

8. Keep excellent notes about every phone call and visit in a bound composition book. This will be a legal record should you go to court. Let anyone and everyone see you writing in this book. Make sure you get business cards from employees and "quote" them in your book.

9. Stay Rational. The minute you loose your cool, you compromise your position. So, remove yourself from conflict when you become so angry that you want to...do #10. You may lose a battle here and there. Keep your eye on the war/ or prize: getting your cabinets replaced.

10. Try hard not to cry, yell, or cuss. There are appropriate times to use 'BS' in speech, but say B.S., not the words.

11. Believe you will win, and you will. Huffing, puffing, and threatening will not get your kitchen done. It will end you up in court. You must give them "reasonable" time to fix issues. This could be months. Trust me, months is nothing to the courts because they will reduce it to weeks, then to business days. I waited for about MONTHS for a judge to give us his decision on a case about our cabinets.

Be blessed. Be sweet. Be firm. Be rational in all conversation.

"Hi, John, (Expo Manager). Look, I've thought long and hard about the problems with my kitchen and it's clear to me that the only thing that is going to satisfy me is to have the original kitchen we designed, contracted, and paid you to build. Nothing else is acceptable. We've worked hard for our money and I do not want to live with an improvisation on a design. I want the kitchen I paid your company to install. So, it's unfortunate that some cabinets will have to be uninstalled and go back, but that's the only way I see this working out. How soon do you think we can get started on a solution, because this is already seriously behind schedule."

And so on. Once you practice the perfect, rational tone and delivery of this and make it 'your own', you can deal with anyone about anything. I just hope and pray for you that you are dealing with someone rational.

IF you hear, "we can't do that," or something similar, say, "John, I did not think you had the authority to authorize this replacement. And that's O.K.!Please give me the name and numbers to your district and regional managers and I will deal with them directly. They should be fully aware of your third party cabinet company and kitchen designer's errors (or whomever is at fault)."

I had issues with HD and a manager in Virginia a few years ago and had to climb the food chain because of an unresponsive, arrogant local manager. The regional manager was so thrilled that I came to him and kept such detailed notes, he sent me $250 in GIFT CARDS for all of my persistance and rationale. The local manager was audited and fired within the month. EMPLOYEES WERE THRILLED and gave me the credit. I was a hero for a season at HD.

Which leaves me with my parting idom: PERSISTENCE WEARS RESISTANCE. Remember the parable of the widow and the unjust judge. Well, this is a take on the 'familiarity breeds contempt' thoughts, but it's true.

"In a certain city there was a judge, who neither feared God, nor had respect for people. In that city there was a widow who kept coming to him and saying, 'Grant me justice against my opponent.' For a while he refused; but later he said to himself, 'Though I have no fear of God and no respect for anyone, yet because this widow keeps bothering me, I will grant her justice, so that she may not wear me out by continually coming.' " (Luke 18:2-5)

Also, remind everyone about the delays and how this has affected your family. Gift cards are really nice. :)

NOTES:

Advice for dealing with vendors/craftspeople re probles
clipped on: 03.30.2008 at 04:57 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2008 at 04:58 pm

RE: Nuccia's kitchen is DONE! See my pictures!!! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: amcofar on 03.28.2008 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Wow! Your kitchen reminds me of a famous painting, which brings to mind a beloved song. Although I am not a poet, I was inspired to express my thoughts in verse (my sincere apologies to Don Mclean).

Starry, starry night
Paint your palette blue and soapstone grey
Swirling clouds in sapphire haze
Colors changing hue

Cobalt tiles splashed with twinkling stainless stars--
An incredible canvas just like art.
Warming fields of maple grain
Quartzite surfaced-island with ebony stain
Grounded beneath the richness of crimson terrain.

Now I think I know
What an artful space says to me;
And how you planned your grand and ultimate dream--
And how your design evolved brilliantly.
All Garden Webbers are now viewing; and theyll be viewing till
Perhaps they always will.

Nuccia, I know you and your family will enjoy your magnificent kitchen and that amazing outdoor oven. Thanks so much for sharing. (I told you I am not a poet, but I love your kitchen!)

NOTES:

Someone actually wrote me a POEM!
clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 11:22 am

RE: Curious about text in messages (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 01.23.2008 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

LOL! It took me a while to figure it out as well...my 13-yo son told me how.

You user HTML codes surrounded by angle brackets (< and >)

You put a "beginning" code where you want the format (Underline, etc.) to start and an "ending" code where you want it to end. The "ending code is the same as the beginning code except you precede it by a slash (/)

Some Codes are:

Bold: strong
Underline: u
Italic: i
Superscript: sup

The following are included in the "font" code:
Color: color = "name of the color, e.g., red, blue, etc.
Font: face = "name of the font e.g., arial"
Size: size = "how much smaller/bigger than normal e.g, -1, +2"

Some examples. Note: take out the space between the bracket and the code. I had to put them in so it would show up instead of using the code!

< strong>Bold< /strong>....gives you...Bold
< u>Underline< /u>....gives you...Underline
< i>Italic< /i>....gives you...Italic
< font color = "blue">Blue< /font>....gives you...Blue
< font face = "arial">Arial< /font>....gives you...Arial
< font size = "+2">Larger< /font>....gives you...Larger
< font color = "red" face = "arial">Arial in red< /font>....gives you...Arial in red

I hope this isn't too "tech-y".....

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.24.2008 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2008 at 01:44 pm

RE: Has GW changed the way searches function? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vjrnts on 11.04.2007 at 07:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Googling doesn't help. While it locates the original thread, attempts to retrieve it are useless.

Go back and click on "cached" just under the Google listing for the thread you're looking for. GW may have expired it, but Google has a copy of it stored.

It also helps to search as follows. Put in the Google search box your search term, followed by site:www.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/

That works pretty well.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.04.2007 at 11:18 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2007 at 11:19 pm

RE: Wolf vs. Blue Star ... Trying to Choose (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: greentank on 01.12.2007 at 04:14 pm in Appliances Forum

You should note that starting in 2007, Bluestar's has inproved the fit/finish on their ranges. They invested $9MM in new finishing equipment, and units are supposed to be several steps above where they were last year. I ordered mine in late December, and am supposedly getting one of the new models. Wont see it for a month or two, though, so I cant comment based on in-person experience.

NOTES:

look inti this before committing on a bluestar.
clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 12:26 am

RE: Please show me the BLACK in your kitchen! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: phatcat on 02.08.2007 at 10:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too like black as an accent. Used it on some appliances, peripheral countertops, in corners of pinwheel pattern in floor, knobs & pulls, hinges and light fixture. Had to do something to tone down those fire walls!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pix of kitchen with black accents

NOTES:

this kitchen has wonderful detail and ideas. Check out curved granite on hutch and range area.
clipped on: 02.09.2007 at 10:29 am    last updated on: 02.09.2007 at 10:31 am