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Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Posted earlier but pictures were too small. Hope this works.



clipped on: 04.28.2010 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2010 at 10:12 pm

Finito! one more white/marble/soapstone kitchen

posted by: segbrown on 12.06.2009 at 01:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've posted in dribs and drabs, so this isn't exactly an unveiling, but we are 99% done. Thanks to everyone; I've been reading this forum for years, even in the "pre-model" we did a few years back (minor update). I am also greatly indebted to my wonderful designer and contractor; I lucked out there.

Before pics: we moved the kitchen into the family room, the dining room into the kitchen, and the breakfast area into the dining room. (The living room turned into the family room, and the office will soon turn into the living room ... more to do around here.)So these photos are not exactly classic before/afters. (And it's a snowy day, so bright outside, not the best for pics. Oh well.)

Old kitchen

Corresponding view

Old family room:

Corresponding view

Old dining room (both visible walls are now gone)

Corresponding view

I was previously opposed to knocking out both walls, but I am glad we did. For the way we live, it works much better. Entertaining is a cinch now. Because the kitchen is vaulted but the other ceilings are low, it doesn't feel like a huge empty space (that's what I was worried about). And I liked my "other" house, just not the kitchen. It was awful.

I'll post details here, and more specific photos in a subsequent post.

Aspen Leaf Kitchens in Denver/Berthoud, CO; proprietary Primer White, BM Taos Taupe on island and butler's pantry, and custom-stained antique pine on breakfast hutch

SubZero BI-36U fridge, pro handle
Wolf 48 DF range with 4 burners and double griddle
Viking 54 in. hood liner with heat lamps
Thermador DWHD64EP dishwashers
KitchenAid KBCO24RSBX three-zone beverage center
SubZero 700BCI refrigerator/freezer drawers
Sharp 0.8 cu ft microwave

Minas soapstone on perimeter cabinets and hutch
Calacatta gold marble on island and butler's pantry

Restoration Hardware Gilmore cup pulls, Aubrey knobs and handle pulls, Clear Glass knobs in antique brass, and Season knobs and Hanson pulls in ORB

Main: soapstone farm sink crafted by Terra Bella/Denver CO
Prep: Ticor S3650

Main sink: Kohler HiRise bridge with sidespray
Prep sink: Kohler HiRise bar faucet

Wilmette Clark pendants in ORB (breakfast nook)
Wilmette LaSalle wall sconces in antique brass (later photos)
Visual Comfort Classic Ring chandelier in AB (dining room)
Visual Comfort Four-Light Siena pendant in AB (butler's)

-Island stools-
Ballard Designs Dorchester counter stools in rubbed black (all other furniture and rugs previously owned)


clipped on: 03.15.2010 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2010 at 04:44 pm

RE: To all of you with IKEA kitchens (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: morton5 on 01.03.2010 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

A lot of what can make an Ikea kitchen look well is what benefits any kitchen: functional layout, careful installation, good lighting, complementary materials. Also, I think it helps to acknowledge that Ikea's frameless, full overlay design is more modern or at least a "clean" look, and not to fight that. When people add extensive custom mouldings to Ikea cabs, I think it looks wrong.

I think the pros and the cons have been covered above. Let me clarify, though, that Ikea cabs are particle board, not MDF (which would be much heavier).

In my own installation, we improved on the basic cabs by taking end panels to the floor, and edgebanding the front edges of the cabs. We also cut down some cabs to the sizes we needed (not hard), or pulled out cabs, so we could do things like "build in" the refrigerator. My carpenter also built bases on which to place the cabs rather than using Ikeas plastic, adjustable legs-- this enabled the toe kicks to be nailed on, rather than clipped on. I think it is also a good idea to glue on the backs of the cabs rather than just nail them on, and to caulk the sink cab.

You can do a lot of interesting things with Ikea stuff, design-wise. Besides great cabs, they have shelves that can be cut to desired lengths, rail systems, cubbies-- it pays to study the catalog and spend time wandering the store to get ideas. Also, look at other European cab sites, like Poggenpohl and Bulthaup, for ideas-- like wrapping the counter material down the sides of the cabs.

I LOVE my Ikea cabs-- love that they are frameless, and thus give me so much storage, love the way the pullouts work (with each internal drawer operating independently), love the Blum hardware, love the cool organizing features, love my oak, espresso-colored door fronts, which were made in Italy. I also like the transparency of Ikea's pricing, and the fact that I can easily get replacement parts or additional organizing inserts. And, if I ever choose to do so, I could easily reface my kitchen.

I put my Ikea kitchen in a large home in the Washington D.C. area. I get a lot of compliments on my kitchen-- I don't think having Ikea will hurt resale at all.


clipped on: 02.23.2010 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2010 at 11:14 pm

RE: White Ceramic Floor tile - Upkeep Nightmare? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 05.04.2007 at 08:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

callaloo-- Check the product in the following link. It may be your salvation. :-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Aquamix Grout Colorants on line


clipped on: 05.20.2007 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 05.20.2007 at 11:25 am

white subway tile?

posted by: crl_ on 05.09.2007 at 01:19 pm in Kitchens Forum


I'm pondering backsplash options. I think we will go with a white subway tile look, but that still leaves lots of options.

White cabinets (Ikea STAT), Butcherblock countertop (Ikea oak), white appliances perhaps with a stainless cooktop and chimney hood, stainless sink, wood toned cork floor, walls painted Benjamin Moore Buxton Blue. Will add an island later, planning to be custom made in reclaimed wood to look like an antique (unsure of counter top on island) Shooting for an overall simple, cottage look.

So, what do you think of white subways with this combination? Suggestions for particular tiles or places to look online? I guess there is a big range of prices. Links to places with prices would be much appreciated.

What about marble subways? (If we went that way, we might put marble on the island countertop, although I'm not sure as I know it stains and it would be used by kids for snacks, etc.) This would be more expensive? Links to places with prices would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much for any thoughts, pictures or links!


clipped on: 05.20.2007 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 05.20.2007 at 10:19 am

RE: Cleaning ques. & other ques. ab. wht painted cabs (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dee44 on 04.06.2007 at 09:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are the new diamond cabinets.....not quite fully installed yet!

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 04.08.2007 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2007 at 11:48 pm

RE: french door or sliding patio door to sun porch??? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: klabio on 01.10.2007 at 03:40 pm in Building a Home Forum

I did a ten foot four panel slider with the center two panels operating and the outers fixed. I didn't have swing room for the french door either inside or outside. They open to a screen porch(eventually) so I have no screens. Mine are from Kolbe & Kolbe. They are Energy Star, Wood interior, extruded aluminum exterior, low-e glass. My only regret is that I didn't do a multipoint lock ($$ issues). I suspect that they would have sealed up very tight then. I absolutely love the big center opening. They ran about $2K each. Here are some pics from inside and out:
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Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here is a link that might be useful: Kolbe-Kolbe Garden Aire Slider


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 01:01 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 01:01 am

RE: The Best Book I Have Seen On Saving Energy (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: fsq4cw on 03.31.2007 at 08:59 pm in Renewable Energy Forum

Hi Gary,

Seeing as I respect your opinions, I went downtown today (using public transportation of course!) and bought this book. Looks like a real winner!

Heres one that Ive enjoyed and highly recommend:

Natural Home Heating by Greg Pahl, published by Chelsea Green.

Its available at Chapters and elsewhere.



Here is a link that might be useful: Chapters


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 12:50 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 12:50 am

The Best Book I Have Seen On Saving Energy

posted by: solargary on 03.30.2007 at 10:39 am in Renewable Energy Forum

I ran across this book recently:

"The Carbon Buster's Home Energy Handbook, Godo Stoyke, 2007
170 pages, $13, New Society Publishers

It is the best all around book on reducing energy use, reducing carbon
emissions, and saving money that I have seen (and I have looked at a
ton of such books :) ).

It provides detailed descriptions of several dozens of projects, and
provides energy saving, carbon saving, initial cost, cost saving, and
return on investment for each. The projects cover all types of home
energy use as well as transportation.

It is also the first book I have seen that accurately describes the
large impact that electric power plants have on carbon emissions, and
the importance of reducing electricity use.

I got mine and Barnes, but I suspect its available at all the usual



clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 12:49 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 12:50 am

RE: why does my house cool off so fast? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: razl on 12.15.2006 at 10:21 am in Renewable Energy Forum

Don't rush out to get fresh air exchanger until you can determine you need one. The minimum air exchange accepted today is 0.25 per hour which works out to roughly 6 whole house air exchanges per day. Changes are your house is much higher than that. Most people immediately think additional insulation in the attic gives the most bang but that's not always true.

Fixing an air filtration problems will give you significantly better heat loss numbers that adding insulation. Contact your utility company and see if they offer discounted energy audits. I got an energy auditor to come to my house for $100. This included a complete heat loss analysis, blower door test, and recommended upgrades with ROI figures.

From here, you will know exactly what to do in what order given your budget. Some people will spend $300 insulating their attic as a first step to save money when $30 of caulk and foam sealant would have improved their energy cost twice over.

cellular shades will give you the most R-value for your dollar so go with those if it fits your decor/style.

Good luck!

BTW, what are the outside temps when your losing 6 degrees F per hour?


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 12:46 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 12:47 am

RE: why does my house cool off so fast? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: solargary on 12.12.2006 at 06:22 pm in Renewable Energy Forum


How fast your house cools down will depend on the outside temperature, heat loss rate (how well its insulated and sealed), and ther thermal mass of the house (if the house has a lot of thermal mass it will be slower to cool down).

Your rate of 6F per hour does seem high to me.
My house appears to cool about 10F over 7 hours -- here is a plot of mine done with an outside temp around 16F.

While your cool down rate does seem high, I'm not sure its all that conclusive. You might want to do an overnight cool down of several hours, and see if that rate persists.

As to ways to improve.
I would think about getting a blower door test. Your utility may subsidize such a test as part of an energy audit (which would also be good). This would let you determine accurately how tightly sealed the house is, and they would identify areas that could be sealed better.
Most houses built in your house's timeframe would not normally be all that tight. High cold air infiltration can lead to a lot of heat loss.

Putting more insulation in the attic is kind of a no brainer -- just blow in cellulose over the existing insulation. The fluffy white stuff is probably loose fill fiberglass? This is poor insulation, in that it allows air currents to flow through it -- ORNL tests show that the effective R value can be cut in half under cold conditions due to these air current. But, before you insulate the attic, I would seal up all the plumbing and wiring and any other penetrations going into the attic -- this is a lot easier to do before you blown in more insulation. I would also seal up and insulate any heating/cooling ducts that pass through the attic -- these are terrible energy sinks -- see:
Lots of info on how to do the sealing on my site here:

The thermal window treatments are also a pretty good bet, even with your improved windows. We use shades with an "Energy Track" to provide better sealing -- Google on "Symphony Shades Energy Track". I believe these could add about R3 to your current windows, which are probably in the R3 to R4 range.

You can use this Insulation Upgrade Calculator to work out the approximate amount you will save by doing various insulation or window improvement projects.



clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 12:41 am

RE: lzclay - more pics of kitchen please (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lzclay on 03.01.2007 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry I didn't see this until getting alku05's email.

I hate to admit that I really don't have any updated pictures (we've been in our house almost exactly a year now) and I've never posted in the finished kitchens blog because I still don't feel "finished." I am happy to share the couple pictures I have from moving in last February if that would help.

And the backsplash tile is Ming Green Marble diamond tile from Maestro Mosaics in Illinois. You can see it listed here:

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And this is the pic from the corner stove thread:

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clipped on: 03.30.2007 at 12:45 am    last updated on: 03.30.2007 at 12:45 am

Beadboard backsplash and soapstone - pics!

posted by: angelcub on 02.27.2007 at 06:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi All! We FINALLY (lol) got our backsplash up. We are so pleased with it - it came out just as we'd hoped. Here are some pics since I know a few others were considering BB as a backsplash.

We're not quite finished with the range wall. We plan to put a wood panel of the BB above the VAH. It will be recessed a bit with a plate rail in front.

This corner will have open shelves, probably three.

Sink wall with a not so great view but that is soon to change. Can you see the backhoe out the window? My son's friend owns it and is taking down the wall and moving a good portion of the dirt hill. Yeah, a new garden area! : )

The cupboard is temporary. DH will be building a hutch for the area - some day. I plan to keep our everyday dishes in it and some decorative pieces.

Fridge wall - DH made the fridge cabinet the other day so it should be installed this weekend.

As you can see we still need to put up the crown molding. We are having a bit of a "debate" about how that should look. ; ) And as you can see I don't have any doors or drawers yet, nor an island. We are doing this remodel almost total diy and DH works a full time job so patience is practiced daily. Actually, the kitchen functions very well as is. The green cupboard holds some basic supplies and everyday dishes, and I have a lots more storage in the laundry room/butler pantry next to the kitchen. I've found it's not so bad doing with less useable space and I'm glad we kept to the original size and layout.



clipped on: 03.30.2007 at 12:05 am    last updated on: 03.30.2007 at 12:05 am

Here's the kitchen

posted by: deanna1949 on 01.31.2006 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm finally getting around to posting some pictures of our new kitchen. Several of you have asked for details. I will include as many as I remember, and if I leave something out, please feel free to email me.

Cabinets & trim: custom-built by Marshall Custom Woodworks, La Plata, Missouri. Sherwin-Williams Creamy and Black
Countertops: honed absolute black granite; Bianco Toscano granite
Sinks: Rolh/Shaw's Original 36" fireclay apron front & Rohl Allia square fireclay bar sink
Faucets: Price-Pfister Marielle, satin nickel & Fontaine bar sink faucet
full extension drawers, drawers in all lower cabinets
Bin pulls & knobs: satin nickel, I think Liberty
Wall paint: Ellen Kennon, Ashen Green & Honeysuckle
Pantry--4 1/2' x 7 1/2', shelves by EasyCloset on both 4.5-ft. walls; antique cabinet
Backsplash: Daltile Rittenhouse Square white subway tile, light grey grout
Appliances: Wolf 36" 6-burner, gas rangetop
Ventahood vent liner, 600cfm
KitchenAid sxs counter-depth refrigerator
KitchenAid microwave with convection, 30"
KitchenAid electric oven with convection, 30"
FisherPaykel single dishDrawer in island and double dishDrawer on perimeter
flooring by Hartco, microbevel edges and sides, Oak, (can't find color but it's a match for deep cherry)
Undercabinet lights--GE fluorescent
Island--38" x 9', bookcase and shallow cabinets are 9" deep, plus doors
42" & 44" aisle width
Beam central vacpan in island
Counterstools by Linen N Things
shredder, pencil sharpener, outlets for cellphone chargers in small desk cabinets.

Here's the link--labeled "kitchen details" and "kitchen."

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchen details and kitchen


clipped on: 03.29.2007 at 12:52 am    last updated on: 03.29.2007 at 12:52 am

RE: Show me subway tiles with a difft grout color than the tile (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: blondelle on 03.25.2007 at 11:51 am in Kitchens Forum

The Antique White in Laticrete is between beige and grey. It's not really a white, but a light taupe. I think it will be really nice with your tile. I've seen it mentioned in a few decorating magazine when they listed the grout. Some of the light greys are too bluish, and might not work with the bone. The Antique white would be perfect. It would look similar to the photo above.

For the floor I would use a warm grey grout a few shades lighter than the tile. Light enough to delineate the tiles, but not light enough to really draw too much attention to the grout lines. You don't want too much contrast.


clipped on: 03.26.2007 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 03.26.2007 at 11:32 pm

What color is the INSIDE of your cabinets?

posted by: debbrown01 on 03.16.2007 at 07:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm getting ready to paint my cabinets. The outside is going to be a creamy off-white. The inside currently is just untreated wood. I was going to use the same paint on the inside but am thinking that a light color will show every stain.

So what color is the inside of your cabinets?

BTW, for anyone interested, I found Cabinet Coat paint at Shannon Lumber Yard in Chicago. They have the white and a tint base that can be used for a variety of pastel shades. It is current $38.99/gallon.



clipped on: 03.16.2007 at 11:52 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2007 at 11:52 pm

RE: Budget Cabinets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: rhibert on 02.26.2007 at 10:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm the kind of person that has to shop something to death before I'm convinced that I've found the best deal. => We ended up choosing Kabinart from Meramec Kitchens & Floors in Steelville, MO (we live in St. Louis). 8 base cabs, 6 wall cabs, and all the doodads and hoohaws that go with them (crown moulding, finished ends, peninsula back panel) will be around $3500 including tax & shipping. All wood (Cherry), pre-assembled, with a 10 year warranty. Yes, I know there are better cabinets out there, but for the price, they're pretty darned good.

So, that being said, I did find a few other companies that have affordable cabinets- most are RTA (ready-to-assemble) but the majority of them were most or all wood, maple or Cherry, and they came in under my budget.

Here are the cabinets I used as a pricing example, to compare apples to apples:

21" base Drawers
3" filler x 3
36" base Blind Corner
36" base sink
36" base Blind Corner
27" base 2 door 2 drawer
33" base 2 doors 2 drawers

36" wall fridge 12" h 12" d
30" wall Stove 12" h 12" d
21" wall 1 door 30" high
27" wall corner 30" high
27" wall 2 doors 30" high

8' toe board kick, 3
8' crown moulding, 2
96" peninsula panel, vertical

And here are the websites, with the *ish* cost of the above cabinets: - $2573 RTA - $2442 Assembled - $4350 Assembled - $4045 Assembled - $3109 RTA - $3341 RTA - $2875 RTA

Now, I do not personally endorse any of these companies, I can't answer too many questions about them, but hopefully this will give you some general information about what you might be able to find out there. I spent a good 6 months putting that list together (LORD it's much more in-depth than that in real life! LOL!) so some stuff might be outdated by now too. Anyway, have fun and enjoy... =>


clipped on: 03.14.2007 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2007 at 11:36 pm

RE: My experience with Schuler vs. Medallion cabinets so far (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kompy on 01.30.2007 at 05:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

FYI, Medallion is now offering paints in their designer series (middle line) below their "Gold series". This should really help on lowering costs for people interested in paint. Medallion just announced this within the last couple of weeks.


clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 01:39 am    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 01:39 am

RE: Why bump-out your sink? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: angelcub on 01.31.2007 at 12:48 am in Kitchens Forum

We didn't bump out the cabinet - just the sink. I like the look of the bumped out cabinets but I don't have enough aisle room.

One thing to keep in mind is the distance your faucet will be from the edge of the sink and where the water will hit when the faucet is on. I thought I wanted my faucet a bit closer to the sink but my soapstone guy pointed out where the water would hit when the faucet was running full blast. We then spent a bit of time figuring out the placement, even how my hands would fit comfortably around the handles without bumping the sprayer or soap dispenser. His attention to detail was invaluable and it really shows in the work he does.

Here is a link that might be useful: shaw sink bumped out


clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 01:33 am    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 01:33 am

RE: White Cabinets? Must they be thermofoil? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: thundersweet on 01.11.2007 at 08:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Our cabinets are painted white maple. They are very white. I'll post a picture. They are not custom or anything. They are from Kemper and have a lifetime guarantee. My KD recommended them and I am happy with the quality. We upgraded from the standard though.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting it rude of me to keep posting photos of my kitchen? lol


clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 12:16 am    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 12:17 am

RE: feel bad about painted white cabinets w/kids...advice, please (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: thundersweet on 01.09.2007 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, i agree with the others. Be happy with what you chose. I know I would have regretted doing anything other than what I had set my mind to. Dh really wanted stained cabinets. I am also a homeschooling mom with kids home 24 hours a day. lol The worst damage done was by my 2 1/2 yr old who loves broom handles. He scratched one set of drawers but its barely noticable. That was my fault and I should have taken it from him. Just be careful in general and don't sweat it. Also, if anything really got marred up, like a cabinet door or decorative end panel, it can usually be replaced.

For those wanting pictures, here are some of mine. We have very white painted maple and honed AB granite and SS appliances.

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clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 12:16 am