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Resurfacing marble at home -- can be done

posted by: sayde on 05.02.2011 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our marble slabs were originally polished when they were received by the fabricator. Those who read previous threads know that when we received them they were horribly botched -- uneven rough patches and very visible swipe marks. Looked like acid was used, and a very poor job of it.

I had been wary of choosing marble because of the possibility of etching. Now, we were confronted with marble that had been unevenly and severely etched all over, and we had to decide how to proceed.

We did recover some funds from the fabricator.

And then DH rehoned the marble himself. He used 5 inch diameter 320 grit Abranet pads on an orbital sander. He followed by going over the surface with pumice. It took about an hour for the first pass and then we went over some of the areas again. The marble became silky smooth and even, while retaining the matte honed appearance. We finished with two coats of sealer.

I'm posting because I was one of many who feared getting marble in the first place because of the etching. There is no doubt that it will etch in future, but I wanted to share that it can be resurfaced.

I love the Danby marble. I feel much less worried going forward seeing how it can be brought back to a perfect smooth honed surface. Just wanted to share this with others who want marble but are concerned about etching.


clipped on: 05.02.2011 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 05.02.2011 at 10:34 pm

RE: Lessons Learned? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: meldy_nva on 04.01.2008 at 09:53 am in Building a Home Forum

Remember that if it's not in writing, it's not definite. Even if it's in writing, it's still not definite until all affected parties sign agreement. Even if it's in writing and signed, if it involves earth-moving it will never be definite until the job is done.

Do have a no-smoking on-site rule written into the contract, along with a daily-sweep requirement. Health benefits aside, both are major safety issues.

Either you or the contractor should provide covers: rugs for flooring, wrap for cabinetry, seals for HVAC vents, etc. Anything that is in a near-to or finished state should be protected from splashes and other accidents. If that carpenting had been covered, it wouldn't have gotten painted. Putting in cheap and replacing later IS a waste of money and effort.

Start making lists. Today we have wonderful software that can be adapted, but the old-fashioned hardcopy shouldn't be sneered at -- when tromping around sites, you want a paper notebook, not the electronic kind that will die if dropped.

The more decisions you make in advance, the fewer surprises will whop your wallet. Before you ever sign the first contract, have a 20% oops fund in the bank. This will help cover the trebled-cost of digging the basement, the cabinets stolen from the worksite, and other unexpected expenses. The cost of tweaks should not come from this fund.

Prevent those expensive tweaks. As soon as you are sure you have the desired houseplan, make (or have made) a 3-D model to-scale. Fill it with to-scale sponge blocks to represent your furniture and study it closely to determine if it really suits your lifestyle -- that means actually going through the motions of your daily/weekly life. My models are a simple 1"=1'; and the me-model has crutches to remind me what it's like when manuevering while on sticks. I take the me-model throughout the model-house, from making the beds, nuking an egg, to taking the trash out and carrying laundry -- to determine if there is sufficient space and correct placement of everything (i.e. consider that you don't want the towel rack 4 feet from the shower). Taking the house-model outside and setting it north-to-south can answer a lot of questions about how rooms will look in the sun -- putting paint chips into the model will prevent surprises re color changes.

It's a custom house; put your money into the structural details that make it special to you. Carpet, drapes, and wall colors can be changed later -- make your selections but don't panic over them. Steps, cabinets and where the electric switches are, should be determined in advance -- do sweat over them thoroughly now so that they will be what you want later.

Don't expect anyone to know what you want. Don't expect anyone to *guess* what you want. This goes for the architect, the designer, and the builder and each member of the crew. If you haven't been very specific and detailed, then the choices made will be theirs not yours. That may or may not be okay with you.


clipped on: 04.03.2008 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2008 at 09:35 pm

RE: BlueStar Maintenance Issues, What's the Truth? (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: cpanther95 on 02.26.2008 at 02:04 pm in Appliances Forum

Comments like that are why I keep getting shoved back to Wolf everytime I start considering the Blue Star. Service is top notch for Wolf - at least in my area. Losing function on an $8K - $11K appliance would be the mother-of-all I-told-you-sos from my wife who just wants "normal" appliances.


clipped on: 03.30.2008 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2008 at 11:41 pm

RE: 48' range or separate cooktop & ovens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cpovey on 03.30.2008 at 05:40 pm in Appliances Forum

With a 48" range, most users here report that they use the small oven 90% of the time, which of course heats faster and costs less to operate.

One advantage of a range is that the ovens are under the hood, which means if a lot of smoke is generated, it can be more effectively removed.


clipped on: 03.30.2008 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2008 at 10:43 pm

RE: 48' range or separate cooktop & ovens? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rhome410 on 03.29.2008 at 11:50 am in Appliances Forum

It also depends on how many people you might have working in the kitchen. I wanted someone to be able to tend to a baking project while someone else was at the rangetop, and not have them in each other's way. I was also happy to be finished with having my oven so low and standing in front of a hot oven, and the new ability to have my pots and pans in drawers right where I need them under the cooktop. An advantage of the range is having both the ovens and cooktop under the hood vent, if you broil a lot, when things spill over and burn in the bottom, etc.


clipped on: 03.30.2008 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 03.30.2008 at 10:41 pm

RE: Can I see your built in or cabinet depth refrigerators? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: zelmar on 03.14.2008 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

The drop zone is just a counter area easily accessible as you are standing at the fridge for placing items as you take stuff out or put stuff in or to temporarily place items from the front of a fridge shelf so that you can get to the items in the back. This counter space should be on the side of your fridge away from the hinges so that you don't have the door blocking your access. Often the drop zone is across from the sxs fridge since the doors would block both sides (but the doors are half the width so not quite so hard to reach around.)


clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 06:48 pm

RE: plugmold in a kitchen (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: akchicago on 03.21.2006 at 03:24 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

The downside of plugmold is that you will have dangling cords hanging from it. Unless you unplug your coffeemaker, mixer, toaster, etc. each time you are done with them, you will be looking at unsightly dangling cords. Also, if you do decide to unplug each appliance after use, when you go to plug them in again, you will have to crane your neck up to see the outlet in the plugmold. I think a better solution is to have the outlets in the backsplash, but install them as close to the countertop as code allows. That way, you can have your coffeemaker, toaster, etc. standing in front of the outlets and hiding them since the outlets are placed low, and you won't have any cords dangling either.


clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 05:12 pm

RE: Ballpark figure for cabinets? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kompy on 03.09.2008 at 03:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm a P&F dealer. It will also depend on where you live.
I'm in the midwest. Below is a kitchen that I did for a family....about 5 or 6 years ago. It's a beaded inset, raised panel doorstyle w/ slab drawer fronts. The finish is painted and distressed. I'm not in the office, but from memory, I think her cabinets were about $30K (not installed). I can check the exact price when I get back to the office on Tuesday, if you like. There is one more broom closet that is not shown in the pix.

If you stick with standard units and standard finishes, that will help a lot.




Love the wall in lower pic -APPLIANCE area below micro...
clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 02:22 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 02:23 pm

RE: What did/are you giving up due to budget? (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: loralee_2007 on 07.22.2007 at 05:59 pm in Building a Home Forum

I wholeheartedly agree with owl_at_home's approach. We gathered our initial quotations, added them up, and the bank approved the total. HOWEVER, I did not want to pay that much lol, and we didn't.

Through very diligent online research, we were able to cut our costs by just under $30,000 (not all of it through online purchasing but a great deal of it), and I still have the same things that were in our original budget. Since the bank had approved us for the full amount anyways, this gave us a cushion to get additional things, instead of having to sacrifice.

If you need to sacrifice, I highly highly recommend online searches before you give something up entirely. I am still absolutely blown away by the differences in prices. As an example, my tile price locally was $14.21/sq ft. I found a seller on ebay and his price was $3.90/sq ft. And that's just one example, I have many more!

Good luck to you all in your builds, I love to see all your pictures and hear about your progress!


clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 01:30 pm

RE: Tile vs hardwood in kitchen (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: peterbog on 02.29.2008 at 08:25 am in Building a Home Forum

We put tile with a drain beneath the sink cabinet, dishwasher, and refrigerator to avoid the potential of water impacting the wood floor. You don't see this tile and wouldn't know it was there unless you pulled the fridge out.

The rest of the kitchen floor - everything that shows is all 3/4 inch solid red oak.

This gave us the comfort in protecting the wood from water leaks while providing a wood floor that we preferred over tile which we had at our prior house. (Didn't like tile, it was too unforgiving when anything dropped on it and we had tile chip and break when a can(s) fell from a counter height.) Yet we had seen the damage that a water lead did to the neighbors wood floor so we were anxious about that and felt the tile with drain under areas where there was running water was a potential solution.)


Wood- help prevent water damage
clipped on: 03.28.2008 at 12:31 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2008 at 12:31 pm