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Kitchen Progress (pic heavy)!

posted by: doonie on 06.12.2010 at 10:33 am in Kitchens Forum

I wanted to share my kitchen progress! My backsplash tile is up, but not grouted. It's Brittany & Coggs tile. I love it! I also have lighting now. I have gotten all sorts of ideas from GW, so thank you all! I feel like I am slogging it out these last few weeks. Boy is remodeling an exhausting endeavor.

Sink wall
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Oven wall
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Niermann Weeks chandy in vaulted eating area
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Beams and vault
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I am keeping my fingers crossed that the center island granite makes it to install this coming Wednesday. It's been quite an ordeal.


clipped on: 06.16.2010 at 03:41 am    last updated on: 06.16.2010 at 03:41 am

Gel stain instructions (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: celticmoon on 06.21.2008 at 01:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Csquared, I got an email I think was from you, but it said I couldn't answer because your email is private. Ditto when I tried to email through your name here.

With apologies for the length of this, I'm just gonna paste the whole bit here for you.

You are welcome to this writeup I did a while back. A couple people tried
it and reported all went well. You just need time, maybe $50 in supplies, and
patience. No skill.

Here's more than you need to know:

My cabinets are frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish
had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinets
are 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with
no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain
or finish on the hinge side edges.
Cheezey, huh?

I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since
my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain
slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few
years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the
rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen
emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind like
mine, but darker. That was the answer.

First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly,
then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on
the Woodworking Furum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot
of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare
(Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slow.) I properly stripped
acres of woodwork in an old Victorian when I was young and stupid. Never
again! Jennifer-in-clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on
woodworking thread to get to this method.

-electric screwdriver or screw drill bits
-mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet
-miracle cloths (optional)
-fine sandpaper
-box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like
-old socks or rags for wiping on coats
-disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for
stirring/dipping (optional)
-General Finishes water base Expresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a
gel) This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark
-General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based)
-General Finishes clear top coat (poly based)
-old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper

Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish
products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than
enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler.
There are smaller sizes if your project is small.

You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set
up 2 spaces, garagefor sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing.
Use newpaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you
will prop doors to dry.
Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6
doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats
will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the
kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable

Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill
if you don't have an electric srewdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark
alike things so you know what goes back where.*
Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong
and scrub well. There's years of grease there.
Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and
give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good
for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to
clean and get the last of the gunk off.

In order, we're gonna put on:
-General Finishes Expresso water based stain (1-2 coats) - optional
-General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats)
-General Finishes Clear urethene gel topcoat in satin (couple coats)

But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair (Tom, you may skip this
step, LOL) and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring).
Glove up.
*First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone
If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Expresso and return it.*
Open and stir up the Expresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl.
Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand,
grab a gob of Expresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well
- overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with
any other
coat or sealer. A second coat can end up with a deeper tone at the end -
though it might seem like the second coat is just dissolving the first.

Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*=
messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown. Wait for the second coat to
judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color,
like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did
not sand between coats*.

Repeat with clear gel top coat. This will give you the strength you need in
a kitchen.

Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might
need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/

NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and
store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all

I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check
everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a
clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear
gel coat. Or two. Install your hardware.
The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color
deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color.

Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be
sure it is the look you want. Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry,
recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and
this will save you A LOT of work. Front end patience is worth it.

This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the
prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60
pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I
lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But
it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good.
Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a
Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And
after a year of pretty heavy use, I've just had a few nicks, easily

I added smashing hardware, raised my passthrough, resurfaced the Corian
(also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks
gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean
and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't
be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay
for the update!!

Link to cabinets in progress:

Link to almost finished cabinet pix:

Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go.
And let me know if you try it and how it turns out.


clipped on: 06.08.2010 at 12:17 am    last updated on: 06.08.2010 at 12:17 am

RE: Too much Wow? Creme of Bordeaux (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: claireanne on 04.23.2010 at 04:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is our kitchen with Crema Bordeaux countertops. I wanted a busy granite to be the focal point of an otherwise tranquil kitchen.



clipped on: 04.25.2010 at 03:45 am    last updated on: 04.25.2010 at 03:45 am

RE: Help, please! I hate my kitchen! (pic) (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: lukkiirish on 04.20.2010 at 06:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Susan, in regards to the slate, if you want light, you may want to consider quartzite instead. We have the same oak cabinets as well as dark verde peacock granite in our kitchen. We plan on installing the 4x4 tiles along w/some mosaic pieces for embellishment. It's perfect with the oak and dark granite. Also Quartzite is a lot harder than slate, it doesn't shale and it's not so porous. You can get the 4x4 tiles in tumbled or untumbled. Enhancing the stone will make them more brilliant but not darker. We bought ours at The Tile Shop and they call it Baoding Creme.

Here's what it looks like installed with unenhanced and untumbled stone:
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clipped on: 04.21.2010 at 03:41 am    last updated on: 04.21.2010 at 03:41 am

My scabos and bronze backsplash, What you think?

posted by: peytonroad on 04.13.2010 at 05:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

It is not done yet but posting for all to see.. It is scabos travertine 3 by 6 in running bond and bronze harlequin/liners. Colors here look a little dull from camera


clipped on: 04.17.2010 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 04.17.2010 at 10:42 am

RE: For the Tile Pros: Sealing Slate - Need Guidance (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: overlyoptimistic on 04.17.2010 at 02:15 am in Kitchens Forum

We used Dupont Bulletproof on our slate and it is completely clear, without enhancing. You can also call Dupont and they will send you samples. That way you can test without making a large investment in product.


clipped on: 04.17.2010 at 10:37 am    last updated on: 04.17.2010 at 10:37 am

RE: jodi in so calif---your tile backsplash? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 03.15.2008 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Kristen. The Fire & Ice Quartz Brick I think is more expensive than your standard backsplash materials for a number of reasons.

1. Fire & Ice is a fairly new to market having been just been introduced in 2007

2. There are a variety of sizes and colors of quartz brick plus two different colors of 2" x 2" glass to consider

3. Each piece of quartz brick has to be cut a particular length and mounted on a 12" x 12" net backing so it will fit like a puzzle into the next square

The $14-$16 sq ft price I quoted on another post did not include the cost of installation. We don't know what installation cost because it was included in the quote our contractor gave us and we didn't ask him to break it down for us.

The Fire & Ice was actually a choice we had to make at the very last minute. Our first choice was a silver-grey tumbled slate that was a lovely light, bright shimmery silver. By the time we got around to actually doing our kitchen remodel, the slate was coming out of the quarry as a medium blue. I didn't even recognize the tile when our designer showed us a new sample she had received. We went into panic mode and quickly looked at more backsplash samples she had.

By now our granite (Impala Black) and cabinets (Cherry with a Brandy stain and chocolate glaze) had been installed and we realized the silver-gray would not have been much of a statement but when we found the Fire & Ice, we knew it was perfect. But before we found the Fire & Ice, we saw silver-gray at the Great Indoors or Expo (also now a med blue) and noted for the first time, the actual cost, which was $3.44 square foot. When the $15 sq ft cost of Fire & Ice hit us, it didn't much matter, we only needed 50 sq feet and it was so perfect we never even considered looking any further.



clipped on: 04.02.2010 at 01:38 am    last updated on: 04.03.2010 at 12:31 am

RE: Kitchen Rugs (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: three_daisies on 03.31.2010 at 10:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before you give up, why don't you consider a seagrass and/or sisal rug? They're natural fibers and can be vaccumed of course. The nice thing is that they're a neutral backdrop to the beauty of your kitchen and add a bit of texture. To be honest, I don't know if they trap as much dirt/grodoo as a wool or synthetic pile rug, but as long as it's maintained on a daily or every-other-day basis, you should be fine. Spaghetti sauce and wine have easily been cleaned up on the seagrass - I've been pleasantly surprised.

I have a seagrass runner from Overstock and a sisal/jute rug from IKEA. Both were inexpensive. At the garage door to the kitchen I have a cheap black floral synthetic rug to catch shoe dirt and dust.

Ballards and Crate & Barrel have great looking indoor/outdoor rugs that mimic all kinds of rugs - I almost went with those but the price was too high for my budget. Here's my runner:

And the sisal/jute from IKEA under the table:

If you look closely you will see a yellow labrador in repose behind the table; she sheds about 50 lbs of dog hair a day - it doesn't show on the natural fiber rugs, so another bonus...


clipped on: 04.01.2010 at 01:57 am    last updated on: 04.01.2010 at 01:57 am

RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: buehl on 02.12.2010 at 11:06 pm in Kitchens Forum


  • Granite & Quartz: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Hand dish detergent & water (go light on the detergent if your stone is dark)
    • "Method" granite cleaner & polish
    • "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B)
    • When cleaning, wipe/dry in circles to help prevent streaks with any cleaner/polish
    • **Warning** Don't use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink

    Question: Do those of you with marble use the alcohol/water mix, detergent/water mix, Method, or Perfect Kitchen?

  • Wood:

  • Stainless Steel, Copper, etc.: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...


  • Stainless Steel Appliances: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • Weiman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can
    • 3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray)

  • Ceramic/Glass cooktops/ranges:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food

  • Non-Ceramic/Glass top ranges/cooktops:
    • BarKeeper's Friend or Dawn Power Dissolver (and a blue scrub sponge) for a thorough cleaning of the black burner pans
    • "Perfect Kitchen" for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges

Floors & Backsplashes (Wood, Tile, etc.)

  • Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • Hot water should be all you need for most of the time.
    • If you need a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.
    • Do not use vinegar or vinegar-containing products. Yes, vinegar will clean your grout, but that's because vinegar works by eating away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time.

  • Hardwood Floors:
    • Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner

  • Slate Floors:

  • Slate Backsplashes:


  • Stained Cabinets:
    • A soft cotton cloth is recommended to wipe any moisture, spills or standing liquid from cabinetry. While paper products are very good at absorbing spills, they are abrasive when used for cleaning.
    • To clean cabinetry, use a soft cotton cloth, dampened with water or a mild dish soap
    • If dish soap used, wipe with a clean damp cloth to rinse
    • Dry with soft cloth
    • Harsh chemicals or ammonia based products should be avoided as they may cause discoloration of the finish.
    • Do not use detergents, oily polishes, or glass cleaners.
    • An occasional light waxing may be required. Avoid frequent cleaning with a waxy cleaner. Use a good furniture brand polish on your cabinetry

  • Painted Cabinets:
    • Damp (not too wet), soft cloth or sponge and mild detergent

  • Laminate Cabinets:
    • Use a damp cloth and water to clean surface of cabinetry, then wipe with a dry cloth.
    • Use a countertop or tile cleaner to clean heavy grease stains or other difficult stains.
    • Do not use abrasive pads or harsh cleaners to clean soiled areas.

  • High Gloss Cabinet Finishes:
    • Clean high gloss cabinetry with mild soap and a damp cloth.
    • Do not use a wax cleaner whatsoever, to avoid discoloration.

Sinks and Sink Fixtures

  • Stainless Steel Sinks:
    • Mild detergent & water
    • BarKeeper's Friend (it will also help minimize the look of scratches on the bottom of a sink)

  • Composite Granite (Silgranit) Sinks:

  • Porcelain Coated Cast Iron Sinks:

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed):
    • Mild detergent & water
    • **Warning** Don't install a nickel strainer or drain (stick with Stainless Steel or Chrome)
    • **Warning** Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • **Warning** Don't use bleach on nickel


clipped on: 02.21.2010 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2010 at 11:33 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen-Lots of Pictures (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.12.2010 at 06:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Love it but then you shouldn't be surprised because it reminds me a little of mine :)

Love your little guy. I thought that was the fridge but then see it's the pantry.

And the can storage - very nice and similar to mine. DH used drawer divider from Lee Valley and plywood to make the dividers for my drawers. Cost about $20 and fits exactly.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley dividers


clipped on: 02.21.2010 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2010 at 11:09 pm

RE: Is epoxy grout worth it? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: davidro1 on 02.15.2010 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Read all the instructions several times, long in advance. Get those simple steps figured out. It says you need to have clean water available. Tons of people have had good experiences, when they do not transpose what they (think they) know about Portland cement based grout onto the epoxy type.

I've used epoxy grout ten times. Always worth it. Use a fresh microfiber rag for cleanup.

If everyone around you is stressed out, don't bother. Nonsanded regular (Portland cement based) grout is also good when well done. It would be good to tell us all what justification the store gave for epoxy grout. I cannot believe that it's because of the tile itself, so it's none of their business.

When brickmanhouse said it "never" comes off, he indirectly mentioned one of its great advantages: it gets hard. It's also non-porous. What could be better in a kitchen? No coffee stains in your grout. If you like light colored grouts, it's amazing. It's great in all the other colors too.

The same scraping tool used to score Hardibacker can scrape epoxy grout off tiles after it has hardened for years. You can reshape edges too. Anything else hard enough to score cement is good too. The experience brickmanhouse had doesn't represent the best installation. His discoloration may be due to installation (e.g1. reworking the grout a lot after watering it down at cleaning time at the end. It's like as if you reclaimed highly chewed bubble gum and merged it with new freshly chewed bubble gum: the colors won't match up.) . ( e.g.2. his white epoxy may have been applied on top of dark gray Portland cement thinset - and if it gets worked a lot, some of that fresh + weak gray thinset could have gotten absorbed by the liquid epoxy. Which is also a normal risk with any other white grout, non-epoxy. It happens all the time.)

To be safe, if you have the free time, fill the grout lines partially in advance with white thinset or with a regular Portland cement type grout, in a color close to your epoxy grout color --- then you only have a miniscule volume left to fill with epoxy, like a touchup. (Epoxy is good for touchups, btw) It can be hard for some people to fill narrow grout lines, with epoxy, and secondly it is very hard to know whether or not you have managed to get the grout down into the bottom of the gap. This is important, just as brickmanhouse mentioned.

Why make sure your grout lines are fully filled? Because otherwise it slumps. Epoxy is a slumper. The worst thing is to have air spaces under the edges of your tiles (because of the ridges left behind by the trowel), because when the epoxy grout goes down deep into the grout line gap, it appears to be "fully packed" and then later it slides more into the empty spaces, gradually while hardening. Epoxy grout sliding into the air spaces causes the finished grout surface to slump down at many places in your floor. --- Which you could fix with another little box of epoxy grout when you do a touchup.

Tilesetting with a notched trowel is how you end up with miniscule air pockets, not a concern under most circumstances. Some tilesetters won't think about this because they've never had to. The worst case for epoxy would be very thin grout lines with lots of air at the bottom (which might be invisible to your DIY eye). If you keep this in mind when you lay the tile in the first place, you can make sure that you leave a lot of thinset in the grout lines. If they are overfilled, use a toothpick or popsicle stick to remove some while you're laying tile, or use a paperclip the morning after to scrape seom out. Otherwise, filling the space between the tiles with a little more thinset later is a good step.

All cements harden gradually over time. There is no magic number of hours days week or months. Once it appears solid, it is still very weak. We may say it has hardened, and it may be far more solid than liquid; regardless, it's just a manner of speaking. With any of the kinds of cement mentioned above, use the "morning after" as the best time to go back and rub off specks that you want gone, to rub down rough surfaces and polish them, and with epoxy perhaps even to reshape the surface of the grout line. It depends how hard it is when you come back to it. I once spent hours listening to the radio while smoothing out the epoxy grout lines in a shower, the same day not the morning after.

The cost for a large quantity of epoxy grout is $100. That's a very small amount of money compared to all the other things you buy without blinking.

My cost was 1/4 or 1/3 of that: I got the smallest box of epoxy grout and filled the grout lines in advance with leftover white thinset.

It's not about money.

Read all the instructions several times, long in advance. Get those simple steps figured out. It says you need to have clean water available.



clipped on: 02.16.2010 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2010 at 02:55 pm

RE: forgot (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: writersblock on 02.16.2010 at 06:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Forgot to say: try not to use the flash unless you can bounce it. If it's a point and shoot type camera, try draping the edge of a piece of kleenex over the flash to reduce reflections. (People have also been known to hold a up spoon in front of the flash to make it bounce or to use the lid of a pringles can to diffuse the light).


clipped on: 02.16.2010 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2010 at 12:54 pm

looking for pictures of Spanish Olive -- please help!! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lmcal on 02.02.2010 at 04:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's no trouble at all. Hopefully they will paint it soon! Like you, I haven't seen it 'in use' yet, but I'm pretty positive I'm going to like it.

Here's a pic of the Vale Mist... Not sure how it will translate over the computer, but I love the color!

Actually, I will go to my house tomorrow and paint an area spanish olive for you. Hang in there!!



clipped on: 02.03.2010 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 08:20 am

RE: Stone back splash behind range: hard to clean? esp fire & ice (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhome410 on 02.02.2010 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have rough-face slate behind the rangetop. The only reason I wouldn't do it again is because it was a bear to grout, and it was my first grouting job since a tile project in shop in 7th grade!

I sealed it before and after grouting, and don't have any particular trouble...But because my counters are 27" or more deep on each side of the rangetop, the rangetop is also bumped out a few inches. I think this makes a difference on how much splashes make it to the backsplash, so I think the distance, as well as the sealer, may play a part in the ease of cleaning. I know, though, that we've splashed it good with oil a few times, and I wiped it down with water with a bit of dish detergent in it.

The sealer I used is from Home Depot. It's called Super Seal: Ultimate Penetrating Sealer. The backsplash has been up and grouted for over a year, and I might have sealed it once since then, but I can't remember for sure. I just looked and the backsplash still looks new to me.


sealer from Home Depot
clipped on: 02.03.2010 at 08:16 am    last updated on: 02.03.2010 at 08:17 am

RE: Would I be crazy to cut down 2x8 tiles to make them 2x6? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sweeby on 01.26.2010 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I wouldn't do it...

By the time you pay to have them cut, the cost difference would be much smaller than the materials cost, and you'd always know you settled. Plus, if the cuts are anything less than PERFECT you'll be able to see it easily, meaning you need a *really good* tile guy with a *brand new* blade and a high quality tile saw. Again, costing more than most other 'merely good' tile guys who could do a nice job on a simple backsplash without a lot of unnecessary cuts.

I'd try to either feel the love for the Adex 2x8 (a really nice tile, by the way) or figure out the total dollar cost difference for the WZ (my personal favorite tile, bar none, and the ONE place in my kitchen remodel where I refused to scrimp) and learn to live with it. One thing I know about the WZ -- If you can scrape up the money (and I know, not everyone can) -- it's one decision you will never regret, and will find joy in every day.


Adex 2x8
clipped on: 01.26.2010 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2010 at 02:34 pm

Finished Kitchen-Lots of Pictures

posted by: colibri5 on 01.12.2010 at 04:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

A huge thank you for all of the advice and inspiration provided by so many of you. Special thanks go to Kevin at AZ Stone Consulting and Bill Vincent for advice on tile and granite issues. My two great inspirations for decorating details were Lovestocookforsix and Lynninnewmexico. Thank you so much for providing details and photos of your beautiful kitchens!

I spent countless hours pouring over photos of finished kitchens here, and now I want to share my space with those who helped me and those who I might help as well.

Here are the details:

Cabinets: Custom made maple, Buttermilk stain (one shade darker than natural). Island has a black glaze over the stain.
Granite: Juparana Crema Bordeaux with Black Galaxy on desk. All granite with beveled edge.
Backsplash: 1x2" tumbled travertine brick mosaic with SGM 127 sanded grout. Color: Beach
Flooring: Rapalano 20x20" rectified porcelain set in diagonal. Grout color: Light Smoke
Lighting: Pendants: Murray Feiss Parker Place, white opal etched glass for island and brushed steel over sink. Under cabinets: GE Slimline fluorescent with warm white bulbs (great bang for the buck! We would never dim these lights so no need to pay more, plus they stay nice and cool)
Faucet: Hansgrohe Talis S
Pulls and Knobs: Jeffrey Alexander Milan collection in satin nickel. One Soko Manhandle in stainless steel.
Drawer Slides: Accuride side-mount, full-extension with soft close. Wonderful!
Appliances: All were existing and include a Bosch dishwasher, LG refrigerator, Panasonic microwave and Jenn-Air slide-in range.
Special features: appliance garage, spice pullouts, tray storage drawer, pantry storage drawers for canned goods.
Favorite features: large drawers instead of base cabinets (except under sink and beverage storage cabinet), tray storage, pantry drawers and pullouts

old kitchen

new kitchen

Pantry and refrigerator wall:
pantry wall

Sink area and pendant lighting:
pendant lighting

desk area

Appliance garage:
appliance garage

Tray storage drawer (I opted for this over a trash pullout and love it!):
tray storage drawer

Upper pantry area:
upper pantry storage-pullouts

Lower pantry-storagedrawers for canned goods (need to get dividers!):
lower pantry storage drawers

Spice pullouts:
spice pullouts

Bowls, pasta bowl, even canisters fit in drawers:
canister and bowl storage

Love my in-drawer knife storage-Henckels from Amazon:
cutlery drawer

Beverage storage cabinet includes a basket for storing onions, garlic, etc.:
beverage storage


pantry canned food drawers
clipped on: 01.13.2010 at 11:52 am    last updated on: 01.13.2010 at 11:53 am

RE: Why can't I use nonskid rugs on hardwood floors? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: shannonplus2 on 09.24.2009 at 12:27 am in Kitchens Forum

You should not use un-coated rubber or latex-backed rugs on your wood floors. The rubber/latex will chemically react with the varnish on the wood floor and stain the wood over a period of time. The stain may be dark, or it may be yellow, depending upon your wood and the varnish. At that point, you'd need to get the floor refinished to get rid of the stain. Many people have rugs on their wood floors though--that is because they use rug pads underneath the rugs that say on the package "polyester scrim coated with PVC". That PVC coating prevents the chemical reaction between the wood and the rubber. You can find these pads easily at places like Home Depot, in a variety of sizes, and they are easy to cut to fit your rug. Just make sure the package's label says somewhere "scrim coated with PVC".


clipped on: 09.25.2009 at 01:12 am    last updated on: 09.25.2009 at 01:12 am

Tell me about your water filtration system

posted by: okpokesfan on 09.17.2009 at 11:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I did several searches trying to find imformation about this but couldn't find exactly what I was look for. I almost know I've seen this info on here before but couldn't find it. Sorry if I'm search impaired!

DH has decided that he wants a water filtration system. We've been without one for a month or so and it's doing a number on his stomach. (he tends to have problems with that). Anyway, he wants a RO system because he thinks we wouldn't have to change the filters as much (he drinks a LOT of water). My only concern (gripe) is that we currently have a 3 hole sink (already installed--and yes we should have thought about this earlier but thought we would just use the filtered water in the fridge). I have a faucet with a separate handle and a soap dispenser, which I LOOOOVE and hate to give up. Any ideas about that?

But please tell me what kind of system you have, how often you change the filter, the flow it has and if you use it for cooking too or just drinking water. Thanks!!


Whole thread:
clipped on: 09.18.2009 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 09.18.2009 at 12:27 pm

RE: Pushopen/pedal trash bins (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 12.15.2007 at 05:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

They're an after market item that you retrofit. As Cat_Mom said, they're sold by Hfele and are available online from various online stores (e.g., and

The silver one is for trash cans mounted on rails or shelves (i.e., suspended from a shelf or rail): 502.15.220
Foot Pedal, Rails/Shelf (TrashcansAndMore)
Foot Pedal, Rails/Shelf (KitchenSource)

The black one is for trash cans mounted on a base drawer/shelf (i.e., sitting in a base): 502.15.113
Foot Pedal, Base (TrashcansAndMore)
Foot Pedal, Base (KitchenSource)

They're designed for frameless cabinets BUT, if you check the link below you will find a series of 4 pictures describing how a GWer made them work for face frame cabinets!

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pull Out Trash Foot Pedal--How to make it work with Face Frame Cabinets (4 pics & description)


clipped on: 09.13.2009 at 12:41 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2009 at 12:41 pm