Clippings by natal

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Tankless waterheater...

posted by: patty_cakes on 11.14.2007 at 05:01 pm in Building a Home Forum

Has anyone had one installed in a new build or had the conventional style replaced with one? What brand did you choose and why? Do you find it has 'paid for itself', since they're more expensive? TIA


clipped on: 11.19.2007 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2007 at 09:40 pm


posted by: gvgemtp on 07.11.2007 at 11:34 am in Porches & Decks Forum

I just rec'd my Woodzotic Stain. While there is a lot I need to learn, I like what I see as far as application, color, drying time and ease of application. I certainly think it will be worth folks to look at or contact Ken at the website and inquire. George @ East Teak


clipped on: 11.01.2007 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2007 at 02:45 pm

Ipe supplier I like = BannerElk Trading

posted by: mark_gardener on 09.15.2006 at 02:27 am in Porches & Decks Forum

I've read many of the postings to this site about Ipe, but rarely have seen a supplier mentioned. I'm a newbie (i.e., this is my first posting) and I don't know if it is a no-no to mention suppliers who have given good service and good product at a good price. If it is a no-no, I apologize and ask people to stop reading here.

If, on the other hand, it is not a no-no to mention suppliers and if anyone is interested, I found an Ipe supplier with whom I am very pleased. It is BannerElk Trading out of Atlanta (877-909-8575). Our salesman was Bill.

We were preparing to build a 2,000+ sqft deck when our local lumber yard informed us they couldn't supply the Ipe we wanted (n.b., we were ordering 1" x 4" T&G kiln dried to 12%). We had about two weeks to find a replacement supplier.

A frantic search ensued (thank Heavens for the internet). Most suppliers did not have that amount of Ipe in that cut and dimension on hand. Those that did asked between $1.90 to $1.94 per linear foot (n.b., that included delivery).

I finally contacted Bill at BannerElk Trading and he was great though the initial moments of the conversation were unlike any I'd ever had. Bill asked if the Ipe was for an uncovered deck. I told him it was and ... get this ... he said he wouldn't sell me the wood because BannerElk didn't guarantee outdoor use !! (N.b., I finally agreed to sign a waiver.)

Once we got that settled, Bill helped me figure out the lengths we needed, recommended the drill jigs, and other hardware such as stainless steel screws we would need as well as the UV Inhibitor (i.e., Cabots) to apply after the deck was finished. He also sent me two PDF files with detailed installation instructions. Bill had the wood bundled and protected. He even recommended we allow him to find a point-to-point trucker to ship the order to us to reduce the possibility of damage from loading and unloading the wood at various terminals. The result was I don't think we lost a single board to damage. The final cost to me was about $1.87 per linear foot and that included all of the installation tools, hardware, and freight.

I was very appreciative for BannerElks ability to respond on such short notice and for the care Bill took to help ensure the deck would be installed properly and that we would be happy with the results. Consequently, I encourage anyone looking for Ipe at least to give BannerElk a call (877-909-8575) and develop their own conclusions.


clipped on: 09.15.2006 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2006 at 10:58 pm

twp trumps ato -- but which twp?

posted by: phaze-3 (Guest) on 09.13.2006 at 09:29 am in Porches & Decks Forum

OK, after lurking in the forums and reading almost everything pressurepros and friends have written, I've abandoned plans to use Cabot's ATO on my soon-to-be-laid 10x7' T&G mahogany porch floor. Looking at the TWP web site, there seem to be several products -- TWP 100,200,300,& 500. 200 is for roof shingles, but what is the difference between 100,300 and 500, which all seem to be ok for mahogany decking? Are my requirements different with a tight T&G floor as opposed to spaced deck boards?

This is a covered porch on an old home, but it gets Southern exposure sun, a fair amount of road grime, and typical NJ snow, which isn't consistently huge, but can sometimes give us a good dumping of a foot or more. Looked at Tendura composite boards, but they run a buck more per foot over mahogany.


clipped on: 09.13.2006 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2006 at 12:31 pm

New Deck wood order

posted by: kenstl on 09.10.2006 at 09:53 am in Porches & Decks Forum

Ok, I just ordered all of my material from George at East Teak (very good to work with by the way, thanks George), and I am contemplating my decision to use clips on the 3/4" decking on a portion of the deck. (I will try to post some pics).

Deck off of the house is 12' x 18' non covered, and then a 15' x 15' screened in porch which is attached to the non covered deck.

I am using IPE 1x6 TG in the screened in area, and 3/4" with ss Ipe clips on the open deck. I did not want to use 5/4 due to the difference in height of the two woods, and considered using TG on the open deck but I was worried about the exposed deck and TG material.

The decks are 12" to 24" off of the ground. The area gets some mid day sun, but not a ton. The open deck is blocked by the house and the screened porch structure slightly, so the open deck will only get a few hours of direct sun a day.

John, I know you have used TG on open decks, but everyone else cries foul. Is it the sun or the water that would cause the most issues for an exposed TG deck?

ps, the deck is level, ie no drop off for run off.



clipped on: 09.12.2006 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2006 at 02:20 pm

Installing ipe T&G

posted by: donk4kyv on 07.29.2005 at 01:27 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

I just picked up ipe t&g boards for my covered front porch project, but still have some questions before starting to put it down, since this is my first experience with any kind of tropical hardwood. I spent oven $800 for the wood and associated material and want to make sure I get everything right the first time.

(1) The ipe is said to be kiln-dried. Can I expect any additional shrinkage as it ages?

Should I install the planks butted tightly up against each other, or leave a slight gap for expansion?

(2) I am in a quandary about how to do the planks at the edge of each side of the porch. I am laying the floor planks directly over over the framing, perpendicular to the house, with about a 3/16" per foot downward slope towards the front. The sill is made up of double pressure-treated 2X12's and the framing has been in place now for about a month. I notice the doubled 2X's separate almost 3/16" at spots during dry weather, but the gap closes completely when it rains. Apparently one of the 2X12's cups slightly more than the other during the wet-dry cycle. I tried screwing the boards together, but that had no effect. When the gap is there, I cannot bring it in even with a heavy duty clamp. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to reduce the likelihood that this movement will cause the floor planks at the outer edges to separate enough from the others under certain conditions to leave a wide gap. Of course, once in place the floor planks will reduce the amount of rainwater that gets to the framing.

I am thinking of sealing the deck framing with Thompson's water seal (which I already have on hand) before applying the floor. Would or would not this be a good idea?

Any other suggestions?

(3) Still regarding the edge boards, I don't plan to tack on any moulding to the perimeter of the ipe floor boards, but to rip the tongue off the edge plank on one side, and rip the groove off the other side, and leave the ends of the planks along the front bare. I may put a decorative trim below the overhang of the floor boards.

It looks like the width of the framing didn't come out exactly right to precisely fit the number of boards, so on one edge, I'll need to rip the final board down to about a 1" width. Since that narrow piece will extend entirely beyond the sill, I am trying to figure out the best way to attach it.

One possibility I have thought of would be to use some clear epoxy wood impregnator that I already have on hand, to glue the piece in place. Another possibility would be to screw the piece to the side of the next plank using trimstar SS screws, or use a combination of both. I plan to face-screw the first and last full sized edge planks to the framing.

I am uncertain about how well epoxy wood glue would stick to ipe, and whether I could screw into the side of ipe plank without splitting it, even with pilot holes.

I am curious how others finished off the edges of their T&G porch floor.

Also, how much overhang did you use with 3 1/4 X 3/4" T&G? I am thinking of 1 1/8" on mine.

(4) The depth of the porch is 7' 3" and slopes downwards, and the front edge will not be boxed in with anything. Do I need to cut drainage slots in the tongue midway along each plank?

(5) The way my T&G is milled, there is no rounded edge at either face. All corners are square, but one side is sanded and the other is still rough. The vendor told me that the sanded side should go up. That side fits tightly together with the other planks, while the unsanded side has a small gap, presumably for drainage.

I had no question about this until I read in another thread on this forum saying that the finished side of the planks was for indoor flooring and that the unsanded side with rounded edges should go upwards for an outdoor porch. I think the finished side looks and feels better, plus the vendor advised installing it finished side up. What advantage could there be to installing it upside down for outdoor use? Wouldn't the open gaps on the top side let in more water when it rains, and inhibit drainage from the bottom?

Thanks for taking the time to read these questions and providing any answers you can.



clipped on: 08.25.2006 at 03:36 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2006 at 03:36 pm