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Tah-daahhh, the Backsplash is In !!!!

posted by: beekeeperswife on 03.29.2010 at 04:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

My faaabulous backsplash is in. In case you missed the drama, I was fretting endlessly over what to do with my backsplash. Then megpie sent me a link to a beveled arabesque tile, which I liked. After looking at the tile online, I realized that the company, Mission Stone & Tile, was having a contest. I entered my kitchen's photos and a few weeks later, I received an email that my kitchen was chosen. The tile was awarded in exchange for "after" photos so that they could use them on their website.

This was the big weekend for installation. It was not as easy as we thought it would be. A friend who installs tile ran the show while my husband and I offered any assistance we could. We worked from 10 am Saturday to 12:30 am Sunday. (We stopped due to not wanting to alienate the neighbors--the tile saw was loud). Started again on Sunday morning and finished around 4:30 pm. Very long installation.

We decided to end the tile about an inch below the hood. It looks great. Here are some early photos, the switches are not hooked up yet, but you get the idea.

Thank you to everybody who helped me out with so many of our decisions regarding this tile, so without further delay I would like to present to you....Beveled Arabesque Tile:







clipped on: 05.24.2010 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2010 at 01:36 pm

finished! Vintage Cream in the City

posted by: shanghaimom on 05.01.2010 at 09:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

We are finally finished with our kitchen remodel of our 1889 home. I have been a daily (truthfully, sometimes HOURLY) lurker and sporadic poster for almost two years. There is NO WAY I could have planned this remodel without the help of GW--We were living in China for over 5 years and I had to do all of my planning from there. This meant NO MAGAZINES, nor could I visit showrooms and see anything in person. Every time I had a question, I seemed to be able to find a thread about it. Not to mention all of the inspirational photos!!! I was so afraid of missing an important tidbit! (We were 13 hours ahead there, so I could easily miss a thread as it fell off onto pages two, three, four...)

Anyway, many thanks to all of the great TKO people who contribute to this forum.

Photos first! Details at the end. (o:




pass-thru detail

cabinetry--local custom painted in BM Bone White oil-based enamel
walls-- BM Ballet White
counters--Zodiaq quartz Mystic Black (kind of a charcoal color)
pulls--Amerock Revitalize in Burnished Bronze
sink--Ticor zero-radius SS508
faucet--Kohler Vinnata in Vibrant Polished Nickel
range-36" Bertazzoni Heritage Series in Anthracite
hood- Vent-A-Hood NPH9-136
backsplash- 3" hexagonal Calcatta marble
pendants--Hinckley Knickerbocker (these are on clearance all over for a song right now...)
windows--Marvin double-hung cottage style


clipped on: 05.24.2010 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2010 at 12:23 pm

Finished! White, Statuary, and Aqua Grantique

posted by: niffy on 05.22.2010 at 02:09 am in Kitchens Forum

Egad, I think it is done - well except for the dinette chairs that are on a container somewhere in the Pacific, and the base moulding for the fridge/freezer. Done enough, anyway....
I owe GW a great debt for many things, but a special thanks to all the marble lovers out there whose kitchens convinced me to go for it. I almost became a Virginia Mist convert, too, until I happened upon this brushed Aqua Grantique which fulfilled all my soapstone/marble/but low maintenance fantasies.... Margieb2- if you are still around, thank you for your arch! We had the half walls/columns on our plans, and once I saw yours, I knew EXACTLY how ours needed to be trimmed. We owe you big time.

So details....
Cabinets: custom, antique white. Island is maple stained dark walnut with a dark glaze or something.
Hardware: Polished nickel pulls and knobs, through cab company
Island countertop: statuary marble, honed
Perimeter countertop: aqua grantique (a granitic gneiss, apparently) - brushed finish
Backsplash: statuary 12x12 cut down to subways, statuary herringbone, and cut statuary slab
Floors: Brazilian walnut
Walls: SW Silvermist
Chandeliers: Schonbek New Orleans mini
Appliances: 30" Gaggenau fridge/freezer columns, GE Monogram Advantium 240 oven, GE Monogram Convection single oven, Wolf 36" induction cooktop, Miele La Perla dishwasher, and GE Monogram microwave (in end of island)
Sinks: Rohl 30" and Kohler Irontones for prep
Faucets: Rohl Country in polished nickel (avoid the burgundy felt "protective" bags. They stain when wet - stain things like new white marble. Don't ask how I know. Bags. Are. Evil.)

Hood/cooktop wall:

Sink wall (well, part of it anyway):

Fridge/freezer wall:

Perspective on location of pantry/butler's pantry:

Breakfast room and Family room:

Breakfast room hutch:

Aqua Grantique Close-up:

Countertop and Backsplash:

Cooktop backsplash:

Built-in Pantry (across from butler's pantry cabinets/counter)


clipped on: 05.24.2010 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 05.24.2010 at 09:26 am

RE: please list all marble look countertops (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sochi on 03.08.2010 at 08:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm using Luce di Luna, called quartzite bianca here. The stone is stunning to look at, although it isn't a pure white, it varies from a whitish grey to soft grey. I'm not sure if you saw the pics I posted the other day, if not I've pasted them below. Please forgive the state of the kitchen, it isn't finished yet (no backsplash, no paint on walls, cabinet maker is cutting out drawers to fit the prep sink plumbing, etc.)





clipped on: 05.20.2010 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2010 at 10:31 pm

Mid Century Modern Kitchen in Texas

posted by: goffgirl on 07.28.2009 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

After spending an inordinate amount of time lurking on this forum, I've finally plucked up the courage to post pictures of my kitchen remodel. I want to thank everyone for the invaluable advice and lively discussions and I hope you like the finished product.
As background information, the house, built in 1959, contained a kitchen that remained relatively unchanged since that time. Only newer appliances and a few coats of paint altered the space. I kept the square footage of the redesign to the original 11'x11' footprint, but removed one wall so that it's is now open to the family room, atrium and living room. I looked to Jill77's kitchen for inspiration and tried to incorporate a design style in keeping with the rest of the home without breaking the bank.

In addition to the kitchen remodel, the back wall of the house was opened for floor to ceiling windows, a concept often seen in modern houses of this era. Now upon entering, one is greeted with a view through the space and into the back yard. I guess we'll be landscaping next.

Before- kitchen (too much white paint and vinyl flooring I could never get to look clean. The kiddo cleans up much easier)
Before- kitchen

Before- the wall between the kitchen and family room is removed and the post and beam design of the home is exposed, opening the space. Soffits were also removed to allow wall cabinets to the ceiling.
Demo begins

After- kitchen
After- kitchen

View thru family room

Money shot

Pantry wall designed to provide much needed storage
Kitchen pantry

At the threshold between the wood and concrete floors I added glass mosaic tile. It's a nice detail for a large transition space that a simple wood threshold could not cover.
Threshold design

Before- family room with almost no windows to speak of. Upon walking to the sliding door vistors would exclaim, "Oh, you do have a backyard!"
Original family room

After- family room is now a proper mid century modern open to the outdoors. Vistors now exclaim, "Wow!"
After- family room

Atrium- before (Yes, that is a dirt floor)
Original atrium

Atrium-after (we added a fountain and large concrete pavers to the space. It's now a calm sitting area where one can enjoy the sounds of the water)
View thru atrium

Before- exterior (What else can I say...boring!)
Old rear of house

After- exterior
After- exterior

cabinets- Ikea Nexus brown-black and Rubrik white glass
countertops- Silestone Blanco Maple
floors- diamond-polished concrete slab
refrigerator- 36" built-in GE Monogram
range- 36" Dacor dual-fuel
hood- 36" stainless steel and glass (bought on Ebay from Kitchenvent)
dishwasher- Thermador (purchased 3 years ago)
microwave- under cabinet GE Monogram Spacemaker
sink- 33" undermount, zero radius, stainless steel (bought on Ebay)
faucet- Grohe Minta in chrome
soap dispenser-Blanco 911-374
air switch- Insinkerator in chrome
disposal- Insinkerator Evolution
backsplash tile-Matchstix in "Mountain" blend
threshold tile- Oceanside Facets in "Tiger's Eye" blend
counter stools- Bertoia look-alikes
pendant lights- maybe Tech Lighting, I've long since thrown away the box


clipped on: 05.20.2010 at 09:33 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2010 at 09:34 pm

Ikea Kitchens

posted by: lisaslists2000 on 02.02.2010 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Who is working on or has finished an Ikea kitchen? I think there are more of us out there than we know! I also think there are lots of finished Ikea kitchens that are not in the FKB.

Please post pics of your finished Ikea kitchens in the FKB and here and progress pics here! Would love to see all that has been done.

I will post pics again soon, but with no countertops and figuring out where all is to go, it looks so messy. I still have to have part of floor resanded, then me apply polyurethane again, paint (not doing tile right now) backsplash, finish painting where soffits and repairs ( moving light fixtures, etc.) were done. I've got a working cooktop and hood and most of my doors and drawers done.

Share, guys!



clipped on: 05.20.2010 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2010 at 09:12 pm

What laminate mimics Absolute black granite-Can we upgrade later?

posted by: storklady on 04.03.2010 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

We are at the end and out of money. I was going to install tile countertops, but I really would prefer something else. Is there a laminate counter that mimics absolute black granite? We like absolute black because it's dark and has very little or no movement. Assuming there is one will it be possible to upgrade to granite later or will it harm the cabinets to remove it? I'm not really interseted in solid surface or quartz or something along those lines because the cost is close to granite. I need something much less at this point. Thanks a bunch.


clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 05:55 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 05:55 pm

Somewhat Finished, Somewhat Budget... White Vintage Kitchen

posted by: janie-k on 02.25.2009 at 06:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a preview of our not quite finished kitchen. It has been in this same state since before Christmas and I'm guessing it will be a bit before we get around to finishing things (such as molding and the backsplash). Anyways, I thought I'd go ahead and post it now, since I'm so grateful for all the kitchens (finished or not) I was able to see on this forum when I was in the planning phase.


Before Kitchen

This kitchen didn't start out as a budget remodel, but since we were/are doing a whole house remodel, by the end of the kitchen we had spent much more than planned and so the Kitchen budget was cut to 20K.

Some of the details...

Range, Dishwasher & Micro: GE Cafe
Fridge: Counter Depth Bosch
Floor: Ceramic Tile 13"x13" with 4" black marble insets.
Ceiling Lights: Restoration Hardware
Cabinets: Custom by local cabinet maker
Cabinet Paint: Benjamin Moore Aura Paint in White Dove (DIY)
Cabinet Hardware: Restoration Hardware
Sink: Elkay stainless zero radius sink from Home Depot (it can under-mount or top-mount)... we had a sad story involving a beautiful stainless farm sink received with shipping damage that lead to this sink. In the end I'm totally happy with this sink, so it all worked out :)
Counters - Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone Laminate in 3cm thickness to simulate soapstone. I couldn't decide between Soapstone or Marble, so we decided to go laminate for the time being... I'm actually so happy with it, I think it will stay for quite a while.
Breakfast Bar: Walnut top done by cabinet maker


Wilsonart Oiled Soapstone
clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 05:54 pm

Under 2K mini make over pics

posted by: momto4boys on 05.08.2010 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a cross post, as I already posted on the home decor side. But, since I've asked 100 opinions on both boards, I thought only fair to post here as well. :) And I know a few asked me to throw out some pics over here when we were finished.

It's not much to show off, but it's what we had to work with. And it's pretty much done. We have some finishing touches, light molding, under cab lights, etc.

I tried to do a very subtle two tone color scheme with the cabinets. Looked good on all the sample boards I painted, and held up. But, in the end the lower cabs just aren't dark enough. And don't provide the contrast I'd hoped for. But, it's no biggie. It's 150 times better then the oak, so for now..I'm good. We'll repaint them soon enough. It didn't take much for us to do the boxes (we painted them ourselves) and my painter was pretty inexpensive (had the doors and drawers sprayed)

I'd love to replace the floor and appliances. But, it's not in the budget. (well, we are getting a new dishwasher, just not SS) And this is also a house I'd hoped to have been out of by this year. The market isn't in our favor :) So, I've been trying to make our cookie cutter kitchen more tolerable. I'm happy enough with it. If nothing else, burned out. Just to be rid of the oak cabs makes thrills me.

Thanks for everyone who advised me over the last couple years. I sooo appreciate it!

small breakdown

Counter top-belle noche, wilsonart high def ($800)

backsplash-cheapo subway tile from Lowes (200)

cabinets-$100 in paint, and $200 for painter dude to spray doors and drawers. uppers BM white dove. lowers BM baby fawn.
$30 for cabinet maker guy to cut out the middle of four doors, and $50 for glass company to add glass

knobs-$50 Lowes
drawer pulls $20 ordered on line

beadboard, molding, other building materials $100



favorite thing is how dh beefed up the moulding. so we no longer have that huge space above for dust collectors :)

after subway tile and counters





dh put beadboard along the back of the bar, and end of cabs


Wilsonart HD
clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 05:51 pm

My $1,400 total rehaul pics done, thank you everyone!!!

posted by: enigmaquandry on 02.26.2010 at 02:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

First off thank you everyone who was so sweet and helpful when I was having fits coming up with what to do with this kitchen! It is not 100% finished because the DH unexpectedly lost his job halfway through! Eventually we would like the base moldings finished, crown on the cabinets on the left and baskets in the open pantry.

Since the DH was job hunting during the whole reno, I ended doing almost everything in this kitchen myself with the help of two of my friends (also ladies who had never done any kind of construction) so it was a huge learning experience from start to finish!

The first three pics are before and the rest are afters :) Originally it was a dining room attached to a galley kitchen which we expanded into a larger eat-in kitchen and moved the dining room to our sunroom.

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house

From house


clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 05:46 pm

Finished! Costa Esmeralda/Creamy Budget Re-Do!

posted by: bestyears on 01.03.2010 at 04:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well it took awhile... which in hindsight was a very good thing. Thanks to the collective wisdom here, I have a kitchen that I love AND that works well, AND that didn't break the bank!

First of course, the requisite ugly "blue/pink/oak/80's" kitchen... (all cleared out, ready to go!)


And here is where we enjoy our coffee and paper, bake, share meals, etc. today:



We pulled the cabinets out even with the front of our fridge because we never used them before. Now they store our cereal! And I added a couple of shelves for cookbooks and knick-knacks.

Our newly built shoe cabinet, which replaced a half-wall



clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 10:39 am

HELP!! I can't make paint color decision!

posted by: amberley on 02.22.2010 at 12:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am losing my mind. I have never had this much trouble figuring out paint colors. I can do this for other people in 5 minutes! I am priming on Thursday, and painting the walls and ceilingsin the kitchen and dining room Friday-Sunday. My cabinets will also be painted (by me- IKEA door fronts only). In addition, we are repainting the walls and ceiling of the living room. I have also been considering painting the floors.

And they will all be neutrals, which I am finding very difficult to choose! What I think I like during the day turns totally different at night. I have been going back and forth for weeks now. I am pretty certain that I want to use Farrow and Ball, which means I need to come to a decision FAST, because the closest store is 1 1/2 hours away.

So, here is my problem- the kitchen has been opened up to the dining room. The ceilings of the two rooms will be separated by a beam in order to have something to attach crown to on the DR side. The walls, however, connect, so I need to do the same color in the whole space. The cabinets will be painted a putty color. I want the walls to be a light neutral. The trim, which is existing is some places, is already BM Mascarpone, which is a dead ringer for Farrow's Pointing. The ceiling in the DR is original plaster, and the kitchen will have a 5" wood plank ceiling. The kitchen side has northern light, but opens to the DR which gets northern/eastern light. So this means nothing too dark. I also don't want anything with a yellowish or greenish cast, or anything with a mauvey cast.

I want to make sure that the wall color reads as a color, not just an off-white, and that it has enough distinction from the trim and also the ceiling color. In the kitchen, the ceiling color will touch both the wall and cabinet colors.

I am playing with the idea of doing an accent color on the island (won't decide that until everything is in). I am also doing a wainscot backsplash, so that color will be the same as the cabinets, or the walls.

The colors that I have been considering from Farrow and Ball are:

Light Gray, or Fawn for the cabinets
White Tie, or a shade or two darker for the ceiling
just about every other neutral color for the walls.

Does anyone have any of the Farrow colors on their walls? I love rococcogurls apt kit, whcih is painted in Stoney Ground, but it looks too cool in my kitchen. Sorry for teh long post, it is really getting to me.


clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 10:27 am

Backsplash help for modern walnut kitchen

posted by: sochi on 03.27.2010 at 05:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there - I've been hi-jacking too many threads re: my backsplash, so here goes, my official call for help.

My kitchen is about 80% done. Still need to choose a paint colour for the whole ground floor, including the kitchen and a backsplash for my cooking and clean-up run. We plan on doing a round or wedge-shaped island later, probably in the summer.

I love the Heath Ceramics Oval (but too expensive), the Walker Zanger Studio Moderne collection, etc., but I think I might also like to inject some colour and whimsy into the space, perhaps circular or oval shapes.

My influences for the kitchen generally start with the characteristics of the house - while quite old, the interior Victorian character was long gone before we bought the house 18 months ago. But it did have 8 gorgeous Deco / Frank Lloyd Wright style stained glass windows, plus a sunken living (think '60s or '70s mid-century modern). We went from there, drawing upon our own generally modern style preferences. Most of the accessories we have in the pics below (green ikea vases, danish 'tea pot', radio etc.) we've had for years, so all that pointed us in the direction we wanted to go.

Now I'm not sure about colours and backsplash. All advice, suggestions and comments welcome!

Oh, more specifically, I don't even really know where I want the backsplash to end. I don't want a whole wall of it, it would interfere with the pictures on the wall along the long run. Should I just tile behind the cooktop, with a narrow strip along the counter (see the link for my inspiration for this idea done with the Heath Ceramics oval tile)? All the way to the bottom of the shelves? On the clean up run, should I go to the base of the windows?

First pic is the railing our cabinet maker did between our sunken LR and dining room. Note the circle - this motif repeats in the kitchen and is visible from the kitchen:


The only thing we have done so far with our walls on the ground floor - wallpaper in the as yet unfinished powder room, more green:


Main cooking run with peninsula (walnut counter for seating area on peninsula hasn't been installed yet, waiting for fabrication errors to be corrected:

Clean up area / run with my two white uppers:

Third 'wall' of kitchen, the pantry and fridge. Note that the door to the right of the fridge is to our crawl-space basement, very seldom used. Happily there is a big landing which functions well as a broom closet, etc. The door will eventually be painted with blackboard paint:


Close-up of quartzite bianca counter with Kohler Karbon and Ticor prep sink:



clipped on: 05.18.2010 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 05.18.2010 at 10:26 am

Here it is.... my 99.5% finished IKEA kitchen

posted by: caligal on 12.31.2008 at 02:09 am in Kitchens Forum

I still need to clean up my tile haze, but here it is. Feels so good to be finished! I can't thank all you wonderful GWebbers enough! So many people helped me here and on IKEA fans.

Went with a bisque 2"X 4" tile. Hardest decision of the entire kitchen.

I made my tiny 8' X 9' kitchen seem much larger by extending the cabinets across the dining room wall. We also took down the high bar and made it one large work surface/bar area.

I designed the kitchen. My DH and I built the cabs. Our handyman did everything else, except the countertops and tile.

The total cost $14,100


full backsplash

Here is a link that might be useful: slideshow


clipped on: 02.20.2009 at 07:15 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2009 at 09:32 pm

Tiling on linoleum question.

posted by: deniselie on 01.14.2009 at 06:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here I am again. The tiling on our backsplash came out beautifully after a long marathon session. Thanks to those that responded. Our next thing to tackle is the flooring. We were told that we can tile directly over existing linoleum if it is only one layer, but not recommended if you have two layers. We think we have two. Anyone have experience with this or input?


clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 12:28 am    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 12:28 am

dishwasher vapor barrier for butcherblock ?

posted by: poorowner on 01.13.2009 at 10:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was wondering if you use waterlox to finish your wood do you still have to have some vapor barrier to protect from the steam and heat of dishwasher and oven?

I guess a little foil tape to shield the heat from these appliances is a good idea anyway?


clipped on: 01.14.2009 at 12:28 am    last updated on: 01.14.2009 at 12:28 am

95% complete DIY modern vintage bathroom

posted by: na_praha on 07.11.2008 at 04:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have been a fanatical lurker and only very occasional poster on this board while we've been conceiving and working on a new master bath for the recently expanded second floor of our 1915 Craftsman house. This was 100% DIY, mostly by my husband who learned plumbing and electrical skills on the job. We were on an incredibly strict budget (under $5K for everything, including infrastructure), so probably more than we'd like of the details came from big box stores. The bulk of the finish work was completed between the second week of June and this past weekend. We owe a huge debt to Bill V and Mongo, as well as Mrs. Limestone, Sombreui Sombreuil Mongrel, and others who did such an exceptional job with their vintage baths.

We still have to add door trim, install our stained glass transoms, install our towel bars and a marble bath shelf, and most significantly, add the shower riser and ring to the clawfoot, but it's useable and looking good, so I can't wait to post the results.

Here's a sneak preview. For more, go our Flickr site
2008; Portland; Bathroom Month 003

Vanities - Pegasus
Medicine Cabinets - Lowe's
Sconces - Commercial Electric via Home Depot
Faucets - Price Pfister Ashfield via Ebay
Toilet - Kohler Cimarron high efficiency with Pegasus seat
Tub - salvage via Craigslist. I spray-painted the feet espresso
Tub filler and shower - EBay
Floor - Goia marble tile ($2.49 SF from HD)
Wall paint - Dutch Boy Hyrdrangea Bloom
Trim - Behr Creamy White
Linen cabinets and marble accessories - Target

The curtain is a temporary fix, we've ordered top-down, bottom-up cellular shades in a linen color for the window.

Here is a link that might be useful: More photos on Flickr.


clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 06:31 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 06:31 pm

Kitchen Finished Pics-need backsplash advice

posted by: lanugget on 12.09.2008 at 12:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is finished except for a backsplash, and I need a few ideas. I have been a longtime lurker-sometime poster over the last few months. I have gotten a lot of great ideas and tips here, the best one being to look into having the cabinets made by a local cabinet maker. The start to finish time of this project was 8 weeks, with just a few hiccups along the way. Here is a before and after photo from the same view. I think if you click on them they will take you to some more shots.

2008-09-11 012



clipped on: 12.20.2008 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2008 at 05:05 pm

RE: subway tile and beadboard (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: budge1 on 10.20.2008 at 03:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Victoriajane, your description reminded me of deanna's gorgeous kitchen. She has corbels and white subways. She didn't do the beadboard but this might give you an idea of how it could look.

Here is a link that might be useful: deanna's kitchen


clipped on: 10.20.2008 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 10.20.2008 at 03:31 pm

RE: Red Oak Floors - What stain for a medium to dark brown? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: redroze on 08.12.2008 at 10:00 pm in Flooring Forum

Hi, I'm rarely on this forum but glad I came on! I didn't end up using the SW fruitwood stain. Our stainer did a great job though, he just put the last coat of poly on today. Here are some photos. It was a custom mix of (strangely) Duraseal's Ebony and Minwax's Red Mahogany, with lots of the Ebony on it. I decided to go darker than my above inspiration pic.



This photo was from last week, prior to getting the last coat of poly and with LOTS of dust on it. It gives you an idea of the darkness.



clipped on: 10.16.2008 at 12:58 am    last updated on: 10.16.2008 at 12:59 am

RE: Show me pics of DARK hardwood floors (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rmkitchen on 10.02.2008 at 02:34 pm in Home Decorating Forum

We have red oak, which was really hard to get ebony! The trick (which my husband discovered and taught our floor men) was to first "pop" the wood with water (wetting them down opens the grain, allowing the stain in to better and more deeply / densely penetrate) and then using Dura-Seal in Ebony. The Bona stains just couldn't get dark enough, inc. their ebony stain; Minwax similar (and our floorman won't use Minwax -- go figure).

Closer-up (yes, the floor is dirty in this photo!):


clipped on: 10.16.2008 at 12:37 am    last updated on: 10.16.2008 at 12:37 am

RE: How to finish like Ikea's Black-Brown funiture? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kmealy on 08.01.2007 at 08:51 pm in Woodworking Forum

There used to be a cable program called, "The Furniture Guys." My BIL sent me a tape of several programs and one was done with coffee for a stain and hide glue for a top coat -- that's very non-traditional. All I could imagine was waking up one summer morning with my forearm glued to the headboard. The demonstrator said, "This finish is not for everyone." Then his partner said, "It may not be for anyone."

If you prefer a more traditional, take a look at General Finishes' Espresso stain. It's available at Rockler.

Here is a link that might be useful: See the color chart


clipped on: 10.16.2008 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 10.16.2008 at 12:35 am

Black stain on Oak

posted by: jennifer_in_clyde on 09.28.2005 at 03:36 pm in Woodworking Forum

I'm hoping to stain my red oak peninsula cabinets black...or a black with a deep brown tint. I've been "practicing" to see if I can achieve the finish I want, but think I need a more highly pigmented stain. I've been working with Minwax in ebony - and after 7 coats am getting "close" to a black color.

Is this to be expected or are there products that will allow me to achieve a deep color in fewer layers.



clipped on: 10.16.2008 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 10.16.2008 at 12:19 am

Cutting down a solid wood door

posted by: betsyf on 02.15.2006 at 11:11 am in Woodworking Forum

Hi. Hubby and I are finishing off our basement family room which has a 12' wet bar and home theater - so far so good. We have a doorway leading into the family room that is only framed out - no door or jamb yet.
I have a solid oak door from a very old Victorian mansion that is 38 3/4" wide, 96" tall and the upper half is beveled glass. This door is so heavy that to get it from our garage down to the basement will be a major effort. Our son and a friend will be enlisted for their brawn. This door will look magnificient when installed because I'm going for a "stuffy men's club" look in the family room.
My idea is to enlarge the doorway opening to accomodate the width of the door. My finished floor to ceiling height is 93 1/2" (suspended ceiling - need to access pipes and wires above!).
I think that 2" can be cut off the top of the door and 7" from the bottom and still work in the opening. Hubby is resisting because he wants to work with a pre-hung door. I think we are good enough renovators that we can build our own jamb and get this door hung straight.
Any thoughts or warnings before I either push for my door or give in to a new pre-hung?


clipped on: 10.14.2008 at 03:44 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2008 at 03:45 pm

RE: How low should pendants be for 14' kitchen with 14' ceiling? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: heimert on 08.21.2008 at 04:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Are they over island or over walk areas? Do they shine up (glass hood) or only down (metal hood)? How many watts?

6' off ground if island, at least 7' if walk area.


clipped on: 10.11.2008 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2008 at 06:25 pm

1930 Spanish kitchen...98% complete! Photos.

posted by: yesdear on 08.23.2008 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi GWers, DW and I have marveled at the beautiful work others have shown here. We were very grateful for the nice comments on our preview photo posted a couple of weeks ago.

And now...the range went in yesterday with the help of 5 burly guys and suddenly we are 98% done. Only some touch-up painting and installation of the DW panel, spice cab door and glass for the glass-front cabinet left to go.

When we are at 100% I'll post a gallery including "before" (yuk) and in-progress. I'll also include the new laundry area, at the extreme far end of these photos. For now, see below for shots of the kitchen. We made a few concessions to modernity, e.g., sacrificing the butler's pantry for 5 more feet of galley length and opening up the arch in the foreground--it used to be a narrow mahogany swinging door. Yet we wanted a kitchen worthy of our grand old Spanish Colonial Revival home. We think she is happy! Details at the very bottom.







Range - CornuFe in basic black.

Frig - Liebherr 60" built-in.

DW - Miele Optima with panel front. Panel is still at the paint shop.

Cabinets - locally made face-frame of birch with inset panel & bead detail on doors, melamine interiors, Blumotion hinges and all the internal bells & whistles.

Countertops - Brazilian Black soapstone, not oiled yet, with radiused corners and eased edge. Runnels by the sink. Mahogany top on the beadboard hutch.

Sinks - Rohl Shaws original 30" apron and 15" undermount prep with ISE Evolution disposers.

Faucets - Kohler Vinnata (K-690, K-691)in brushed nickel.

Cab hardware - "Duluth" 6" pulls and 1.25" knobs in brushed nickel from Restoration Hardware.

Appliance pulls - Top Knobs 12" pulls in BN. The DW will have one mounted horizontally--also serves as towel rack!

Floors - Original 1930 tongue-in-groove fir, sanded, repaired and refinished after removing 2 layers of linoleum.

Windows - Custom arched 3-lite pull casement, based on a ~1930 design I saw in the neighborhood.

Lighting - Schoolhouse Electric, all fluorescent GU24 except the pendants (too small for GU24 bulbs). Different ceiling mounts in kitchen, pantry and laundry.

Hood - Best PIK 45 with custom arched drywall enclosure and remote switch.

Tile Mural - our little secret! (JK, it's from Tierra y Fuego in San Diego.)

Backsplash - custom 2.5 x 5" Chardonnay color handmade subway by Ken Mason.

Paint - all BM, Country Lane green accent, Ivory White wall base color, Lemon Chiffon on cabs and trim.

Our CKD is Dana Jones, "The Kitchen Consultant," in Long Beach, CA. Our vision + Dana's creativity and attention to detail (this is Version 7 of the plan!) + our GC Bob Kaplan's superb and flexible execution = a nice result. We are well over time but pretty darn close to budget. We learned a LOT here. Hope you like it!


clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 10:05 pm

Off-white semi-DIY in 1874 Victorian finally finished!

posted by: misenplace on 10.01.2008 at 05:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are finally, finally, finally done after over a year of DIYing! I am thrilled with the results and thank everyone here for inspiration and moral support from reading this forum.

Our house is an 1874 Italianate Victorian in Massachusetts. The kitchen was last remodeled in the 1980s, complete with dusty rose laminate countertops, peach vinyl flooring and dusty rose plaid wallpaper with floral borderlovely! (the pics of the old kitchen are from our walk-through when we first viewed the home before buying). The cabinets were in decent shape, and we considered keeping them, but ended up removing them, gutting the kitchen and starting from scratch.

Our goal was to make the kitchen modern, but still fitting in with the "bones" of the house. Im calling it "modern meets classic".



Our kitchen is 14"x15" and has 7 doorways (yes, seven 4 of which are really beautiful, original wood doors), so the layout couldnt change much without a major reno. We keep a very similar layout, downsized the island a bit, got rid of the over range micro, and downsized the "hutch" area to make it actually fit between the door moldings (they had cut into the moldings to fit the previous cabinetry dont ask me why).

My husband did all of the demo & cabinetry installation himself (with some help from family and friends) along with replacing the ceiling fan and pendant (most of the pics in the slideshow were taken before new fan/pendant were installed), painting and other odds and ends. The counters were installed by Lowes, tile was installed by a professional, recessed lighting & under cabinet lights were done by an electrician and we had a plumber in to do the faucet & garbage disposal.

We took our time (gutting began in June 2007 and we finally found the perfect ceiling fan last month). Its actually been nice doing the work ourselves and not being rushed into decisions. Im not eager to do another kitchen remodel anytime soon though...LOL!

We got a good-sized tax refund a couple of years ago, so instead of getting a check, we opted to get the refund in Lowes cards from the IRS (for each $90 we got $100 gift card). We also took advantage of several special offers at Lowes throughout the project $750 addtl in gift cards for buying Kraftmaid cabinets, $200 in gift cards for counters, free sink cabinet with cabinet purchase over a certain $, discount on tile purchase b/c Lowes was running a special, floor model fridge (though it ended up being broken so we got a brand new one for the floor model price), mail-in rebate for dishwasher drawers, bought the stove on MA tax-free day. We spent about $30,000 total, give or take 2-3K (including the deleading we had to have done).

We had a lot of problems with the cabinets about 30% of them were damaged when they arrived, but they replaced them with no problem & didnt take back the old ones (were going to try to Craigslist them).

Here are the details:

Cabinets: Kraftmaid from Lowes, frosted glaze maple finish
Knobs: from Home Depot
Pulls: from Home Depot

Ceiling Fan: Hampton Bay 52-inch "Garrison" (Lowes) (most of the pics we taken with old ceiling fan - only a couple have the new fan)
Pendant light over sink: Maritime Mini-Pendant from
Under cabinet lighting: Xenon
Countertops & backsplash: Zodiaq "Woodland Grey" (Lowes)

Range: Bertazzoni 36-inch, 5-Burner, gas (Eurostoves)
Hood: Z Line Kitchen and Bath (eBay; $339.00 + $50 shipping)
Fridge: Electrolux ICON, counter depth, French doors (local appliance shop)
Dishwasher: Fisher & Paykel Double Dish Drawer

Sink: Ticor Undermount Sink (from; 16 Gauge; S105R $199.99)
Faucet & Soap Dispenser: Kohler
Floor: Slate-look tile (Lowes)
Paint: Benjamin Moore: "Nantucket Fog" a pale blue (tinted with only 75% of the color pigment)
Barstools: JC Penney, "Montclair" Barstools

Our Favorite Things
I think our absolute favorite thing in the kitchen is the dishwasher! The dish drawers make it so easy b/c you can load into the 2nd drawer when the other one has clean dishes. The Bertazonni is beautiful and very functional, and though I really dont need that 5th burner as a chef it is fun to have a 36" range. I love the countertop cabinets in the hutch area one for my husband and one for me - which have outlets inside so we can hide our electronics while charging and store other junk that usually collects on the counters (though they havent eliminated the pile up that happens in the kitchen as much as Id hoped they would!). The trash/recycling pull-out in the island and the pull outs in the cabinet in the island where I keep my pots & pans are great! The upper level glass-front cabinets are hard to get to, but I love the look.

The sink is really the only disappointment it is not as deep (toward the wall) as we would like and it makes washing larger items difficult. To keep within our budget, we didnt replace the window over the sink, or the 2 newer doors (one goes to the side entry to the house, one to the laundry room). We also decided to keep the radiator (mostly due to budget, but I like to say it was for the charm). There are still a few things left to do choose valance curtains for the window over the sink & those 2 doors, decide if were going to install the micro cabinet on the wall over the radiator (micro currently resides in the laundry room), hang some things on the walls and find the perfect toaster oven!

A whole slide show of the before, after and in progress is below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen remodel slideshow


clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 10:31 pm

victorian kitchen - how to be vintage and also unique

posted by: victoriajane on 09.30.2008 at 03:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello! I am new to this forum (well, as a poster anyway) but I have lurked for a bit would love to get some of your advice and expertise! We are putting a brand new kitchen onto the back of our 1895 victorian and would like it to be in keeping with character of the house (the old kitchen, which was probably last remodeled in the 70's, was in terrible condition and couldn't be salvaged.) In my head, I see white painted beadboard cabinets with soapstone countertops, a black island with a simple raised panel cabinet and white marble countertop, stainless steel appliances (well, I actually see historic repro appliances but they are out of our price range), white subway tile backsplash, and a wide plank medium to dark stained floor. Unfortunately, this is the same look a lot of other people see in their heads too, LOL! I definitely don't want to be a trend-follower and have the kitchen look dated in a few years, but one by one, I've eliminated all the other possibilities. I thought of a hex tile counter but I know I couldn't deal with the uneven surface and grout lines. I considered buttercream or yellow cabinets which I love but I don't think they'd look nice with the white marble on the island, which I have my heart set on (as does DH, an avid pie-baker.) A barn-red color for the cabinets popped into my head, to give the kitchen a real farmhouse look, which I love , but I am leery about doing a real color on the cabs (as opposed to a variation on white) because knowing me, I'd be tired of it within a few years. Which brings me back to the white and black kitchen as the only way to stay true to the house's historic character. So I thought of a few ideas to make the kitchen unique. One is a pressed-tin ceiling (our old kitchen that we tore out had one). Another is a stained wood floor in a diamond checkerboard pattern (I think I would choose between either the tin ceiling or the checkerboard floor so it wouldn't be too busy or cluttered looking.) For the backsplash focal point above the range, I saw a simple herringbone pattern with the white tiles that I loved, but now I've seen it too many times and I'm not even sure about that anymore. We have a too-die-for original stained glass window on our staircase landing in the front hall and I thought maybe I could borrow from that look and do a kind of victorian stained glass design above the range with multicolored glass tiles (is that even possible?) - I also thought about doing something more unique with the lighting fixtures instead of going with the usual schoolhouse type vintage lights. Finally, I thought about painting just one narrow wall near the breakfast table area in a striking color, such as a lemon or mustard-y yellow, and hanging black and white photos or artwork there (all the other walls will be white or neutral - actually there is barely any other bare wall between the stairs, doors and windows.) Any thoughts? I appreciate any and all input!


clipped on: 10.03.2008 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2008 at 10:50 pm

Done. You Pick the Backsplash for me.

posted by: mjsmama on 09.14.2008 at 01:14 am in Kitchens Forum

For two years we have waffled on a backsplash. My husband wanted to 4" mini-splash with something on top, which I was against. We compromised (i.e., he won) mainly because I love how orchidluvr incorporated beadboard above her 4" splash.

Then my husband started worrying about keeping it clean and whether it would be flammable behind the stove.

So we thought about subway tiles.

And antique tin ceiling tiles.

And glass tiles.

And mosaics.

And so on, and so on, and so on.

I'm done. Really. I just want my kitchen FINISHED. Any suggestions? My cabinet are cream--definitely not white. I have soapstone counters. My floors are VCT in a cream and green inlay pattern.


Kinda after, but not really

Kitchen Floor


clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 02:48 pm

How to sanitize BB cutting board too big for the sink?

posted by: maydl on 09.07.2008 at 01:28 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, we've moved back into our new kitchen, and I've started using my maple BB cutting board (30" x 24"). It's too heavy to carry to the sink, and too big fit into the sink even if I could carry it. I clean it with water and a bit of a liquid "soap" marketed for washing fresh vegetables. Then I spritz it with vinegar and wipe that up. I oil it once a week. I use the board for cutting everything but meat/fish/poultry.

I've read the research that says wood is a safe cutting medium, but I'm still nervous. Does the cleaning routine I've described above sound sufficient?


clipped on: 09.09.2008 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2008 at 01:06 pm

Help with kitchen too, please?

posted by: balego on 09.04.2008 at 06:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have received such great help for my living room, and now I need help with making a decision for the kitchen.
The details;
Cabinets are rescued slab melamine in the cooking area, and rescued oak in the newly added area. In between those is an Ikea unit. Yep, three different kitchens going on in here! The melamine ones and the oak ones have been painted and antiqued. The new counters are (and will be), Wilsonart HD 'River Gemstone', a nice deep brown.
Sink will be white porcelain, tap black (unless I find a bronze that is cheap, in a real hurry).

Oh, and the tiny island is made from part of the old oak kitchen we bought. We painted it dark brown and added an Ikea oak butcherblock top. My questions are...

Would white subway tile suit this space? And would it look silly to swag a small pendant over the island, because the light fixture is not centered over it, and I would need to swag one so it would hang centered. Any suggestions for a small chandelier? A small lighted pot hanger maybe?

How many roosters are too many in a small space? I'm finding many I like, even though I didn't intend things to go in that direction. This space is taking its own direction and I'm just following along, if you can understand how easily that happens! $$, or lack of it, has a lot to do with how my vision for a space, and my reality end up. sigh.

The old, redone..


The new


And the old redone newly added




clipped on: 09.05.2008 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2008 at 04:31 pm

RE: Show us your 'under $20K' kitchens! (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: jeannema on 08.20.2008 at 07:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Our counters are Cherry Butcher Block from Lumber Liquidators. They were very inexpensive, $329.00 for 12 feet. They are not perfect (a few small cracks) but for the money, you can't beat it.

I finished them with 6 coats of Waterlox and I really took my time. I used steel wool and a tack cloth between each coat and I think that's what gave it such a nice finish. Here's another picture...

We've had them for about a year and we haven't had any problems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lumber Liquidator Butcher Block


clipped on: 08.20.2008 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2008 at 04:49 pm

RE: Wood countertop experience? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: trailrunner on 08.14.2008 at 08:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

My teak countertops are in an :L: around the gas cooktop , deep fat fryer (built in) and the undermount soapstone sink. It has been sealed by me with Waterlox. There were many threads in the past on this topic...not sure if they are still around. Our wood looks just like it did when installed almost 2 years ago. We do a lot of high heat cooking and of course lots of dishes and prepping on the counter. Here is a pic or two. c

before waterlox:

before waterlox

after 1 coat:

after 1 coat waterlox

salvaged soapstone sink/teak counter

cooktop and deepfryer/teak counter


clipped on: 08.15.2008 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 08.15.2008 at 12:34 am

tofu_dog's 99.9% finished kitchen

posted by: tofu_dog on 07.19.2008 at 03:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi there. Haven't posted much since two years ago, when I posted our bathroom remodel. Just like the bathrooms forum was indispensable in planning and designing our bathroom in 2006, the kitchen forum gave us tons of ideas for updating our kitchen. I really appreciate the thoughtful input of the folks on this forum, which helped us maximize the use of our limited space and greatly improve its ergonomics. Construction was completed today. The only thing left at this point is to clear our final inspections and refinish the floors.

Our kitchen is fairly compact, a typical size for a San Francisco Victorian flat built in 1892. It's an efficient 10' x 11' galley style floorplan, open to the dining room on one end and the deck on the other. We did all the planning and design ourselves and relied on a general contractor to execute it. Everything from the old 1980s kitchen was taken out, except for the more recent soap dispenser. We resold all the old appliances, fixtures, and cabinet hardware on Craigslist. We also made ample use of Craigslist, eBay, and online vendors to acquire appliances and materials. In fact, the new range, used (but pristine) hood, and countertop fabricator all came by way of Craigslist, saving us megabucks.

Inspiration, influences, and ideas that came straight from this forum:

  • Lots of drawers in base cabinets
  • Blumotion on hinges and drawers
  • Range hood instead of OTR microwave
  • Fluorescent undercabinet lighting
  • Trash/recycling pullout
  • KitchenAid dishwasher
  • Never-MT

Additional details:

  • Range: Viking 30' self-cleaning, sealed burner
  • Range hood: Viking 30', 600 cfm (rebadged Vent-a-Hood)
  • Dishwasher: KitchenAid S Series
  • Refrigerator: KitchenAid 36' French door bottom freezer
  • Cabinets: IKEA Adel Medium Brown
  • Hardware: IKEA Lansa
  • Faucet: Kohler Forte
  • Countertops: 16-gauge stainless steel
  • Sink: Integral 36' double-bowl sink (Dawn ASU107R, welded in)
  • Undercabinet lights: Pegasus Thin Inch fluorescent
  • Recessed lights: ELCO 4' 26W fluorescent
  • Backsplash: 4' integral stainless steel plus 2'x12' and 4'x12' frosted glass tile
  • Trash pullout: Rev-A-Shelf 5349 double 35 quart

Here is a link that might be useful: tofu_dog's Kitchen Remodel Gallery


clipped on: 08.07.2008 at 01:32 am    last updated on: 08.07.2008 at 01:32 am

RE: Show me pics of your cabinet hardware placement please :-) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 07.22.2008 at 02:01 am in Kitchens Forum

We have 2 pulls on drawers >= 30" wide. So, our 18", 24" & 27" drawers have one pull/drawer while our 30", 31", 33", & 36" drawers all have 2 pulls/drawer. So far I not only like the look, but they "function" just fine. I can open drawers with one or tow hands...the drawers seem to open smoothly either way.

These drawers are 30" wide (warming drawer goes in the middle):


This one is 24" wide:
Hardware on 24

A more recent view:
Cooktop Wall from DR

The drawers next to the right of the DW are 27" wide.
Full Kitchen from FR


clipped on: 07.31.2008 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2008 at 08:44 pm

Pendant lights - think I found them....rmkitchen opinion?

posted by: mindimoo on 07.03.2008 at 11:57 am in Kitchens Forum

After months of searching, I think I found pendant lights we can love. They aren't exactly what we wanted, but they are really cool, have a bright sparkly light, a little modern and a little traditional.

Thinking we will do the bronze finish on wire/cable and freejack mount. That way, they won't compete with the black cabinets and will tie in with the ORB finish elsewhere in the house and on the faucets....

Fixtures are by Wilmette Lighting :



clipped on: 07.03.2008 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2008 at 12:42 pm

99% done cottage kitchen

posted by: jrdip on 04.28.2008 at 07:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just wanted to thank everyone for letting me vent and ask questions over the past couple of months. Did I thank everyone enough for letting me vent? We are almost done with our complete house remodel of a 1929 bungalow and just in time for baby! It has been a long process filled with many headaches but I wouldn't change a thing and am so glad we decided to do renovate this house. It is a very small kitchen but through careful planning and editing it is a very efficient kitchen for us and how we live and cook, and somehow I managed to stay within my 22K budget. Here is a list of all products used and I hope yall enjoy.
Thanks, Jen

wall and trim color: sw alabaster white
cabinet color: sw mindful gray
cabinets: armstrong cabinets
countertops: honed carrara marble
cabinet hardware: rh dakota 6" pull in aged pewter
appliances: ge profile
sink: whitehaus 30" farmhouse sink (I got this for 300!)
faucet: 75 off of ebay
tile: daltile 3x6 folio subway handmade and handglazed subway tile
shades: lowes sahara roman shades
sliding door track: crown industrial
sconces: visual comfort library sconce
lighting over counter: custom made
stool: antique milk pail










clipped on: 07.03.2008 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2008 at 12:30 pm

Finished our small powder room -- I mean small!

posted by: hmsweethm on 01.20.2008 at 12:30 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi. I lurked on this site for months as we were renovating our house, and learned so much from everyone's helpful answers and advise, especially on tiling, fixtures, etc. I posted our kitchen a month or so ago, and now I wanted to post pics of our three bathrooms. I'll start with the powder room, a testament to how much you can do in a tiny space. We combined two closets to create a space that is 3'8" by 6'4". Because the ceiling is so high --almost 10' - and there is a window that lets light in from an adjacent study, it doesn't feel so cramped. We also tried to keep the materials elegant and simple to complement our 1890s home. The door is original to the house (moved from one of the old closets, and we tried to match other trim. Hope you think it worked!



Here is what we used:
Floor Marble basket weave "Tribeca" from Walker-Zanger
Baseboard Marble Tribeca collection from Walker-Zanger
Kohler toilet Devonshire
Empire Industries vanity & mirror Kensington
Savoy sink
Showhouse by Moen faucet - Waterhill in polished nickel
Lighting above vanity Restoration Hardware Chatham double sconce in polished nickel
Pendant West Elm capiz shell
Towel ring, vanity knobs and soap dish RH in nickel
Paint Benjamin Moore gray (Ill have to look up exact name)


clipped on: 07.03.2008 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2008 at 12:27 pm

White Subway Tile tub/shower remodel

posted by: cassidyhome on 07.30.2005 at 12:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We had a leak so we reluctantly tapped into our emergency savings account and started to create something beautiful and functional. The first step was to remove an old tub and tile surround, including old aluminum windows that wouldn't slide any more. We replaced them with vinyl retrofit windows with "Industrex" privacy glass and chose a non-opening window for the shower.

The tub is a Kohler Synchrony K-1195-L with the integrated tiling flange. The fixtures are all from American Standard "The Standard Collection." The toilet was the only thing we saved - it is a Kohler Memoirs Classic elongated.

The wall tile is Daltile Rittenhouse Square in Arctic White with a Portobello White Line Bordura accent piece which measures 1.5" x 8" and is installed 69" from the floor. The window sill is a white-gray marble with a polished finish.

The floor is Cerim "The Wood Collection" porcelain wood-look tile in the color "Ellinton." We chose two of the 3 available sizes - which measure about 20" x 8" and 16" x 6".

The walls and ceiling are painted in Benjamin Moore's Bleeker Beige (really Behr paint purchased at Home Depot). The door is a Simpson Shaker-style 5-panel. The trim was crafted by my husband out of MDF-thanks so much to posters on this forum who inspired the design.

The exhaust fan is a Panasonic WhisperLite FV-07VQL3 and the switches that control it are Leviton 6260M and 5634. The curtain rod is a Myson in a chrome finish and the curtain is a nylon "The Traveler".

Image hosted by

The photos are in my Photobucket account: and the password is Maggie


Here is a link that might be useful: Password: Maggie


clipped on: 07.03.2008 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2008 at 12:24 pm

99% Done - Ricklish Kitchen

posted by: ricklish on 05.21.2008 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is our 99% finished kitchen!

Special thanks to all the GWers for all the great advice and support throughout the project! Your help was priceless!!

Here are the details...
Cabinet Insert--Broan-Model PIK45
Exhaust Blower--Broan-EB15 (external)
Refrig--Sub Zero-700TR
Freezer--Sub Zero-700TFILHD
Microwave--Kitchen Aid-KBHS109S
Perimeter Cabinets Joliet Cabinet Co Silk with brown glaze and spatter, Softclose and Full-Ext
Island Cabinets Joliet Cabinet Co Blue with black glaze
Cabinet Latches Restoration Hardware - Brushed Nickel
Cabinet Knobs & Bin Pulls Expo Design Center - Belwith - Period Brass (K444, K443) Satin Nickel
Label Bin Pulls - Armac Label Holder & Bin Pull in Satin Nickel from
Backsplash Beadboard painted Silk with brown glaze and spatter to match cabs
Sink Shaws 3719 double bowl sink
Faucet Graff Vintage Series Kitchen Faucet with Spray in Brushed Nickel
Pot Filler Giangi Brushed Nickel
Air Switch Insinkerator
Disposal Insinkerator Excel
Decorative glass Chantilly by Traditional Door Glass (AJs Decorative Glass)
Brick Aberdeen
Tin Ceiling American Tin Ceiling Snap-Lock - Creamy White Satin, Pattern #2 with C2 crown
Dining Rm Fixture Murray Feiss - Segovia 3-light 23" Peruvian Bronze Kitchen Island Lighting Fixture
Kitchen Island Pendants Restoration Hardware Burnham Pulley Lights in Bronze
Soapstone Counters Rocktops/Norstone - Mariana Reserve Clear
Island Bar Counter Antique Pine Barnwood finished with Minwax Early American stain and 5 coats Varathane Water-based Satin Poly fabricated by GC
Pantry Door Feather River Door
Kitchen paint Behr Int Eggshell Desert Camel
Dining Room paint Behr Eggshell Harvest Brown

Thanks again for all your input and advice!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Ricklish Kitchen Slideshow


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:36 pm

Beautiful White Kitchen with whole house to match

posted by: houseful on 04.14.2008 at 08:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just had to post these for you. They were taken at a model home. I was so surprised because you just don't see this often here in Phoenix. It looked like something you'd find on the beach. There was marble everywhere else, but the kitchen is concrete to mimic soapstone, I guess. Notice also the extra deep counters around the sink.

BTW, those are padded, fabric walls in the powder room. It was neat to see, but not very practical.

click to add titl


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:33 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:33 pm

Finished Small Kitchen

posted by: lily1342 on 04.10.2008 at 12:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, it's 98% finished. The new fridge was just installed the other day and looks so much better than the old top-mount-freezer textured almond thing (didn't wanna post pics of that). It was pay-as-you-go and also partially DIY, so it has been a long long looooong process since demo last May. We didn't have a GC, did our own demo, stripped wallpaper, painted. I learned how to install light fixtures, tile a backsplash, use a compound miter saw. DH and I built the banquette out of birch plywood. We bought and added the decorative legs and bun feet and bought all the molding separately instead of ordering with the cabinets. I added the beadboard, brackets and shelf to the little "hutch" area. The floor plan is still the same as before - didn't change location of plumbing or tear down walls or anything major like that, only moved a doorway a few inches. Also, we didn't get new flooring, didn't even refinish the old hardwood (kind of regret that). All in all, the cost came to $26,513, and that includes everything. I say this for anyone who might be like I was before we started - I had no idea how much what I wanted to do might end up costing. In the very beginning, the idea stage, that was a worrisome unknown. I could have kept the total under $20K if I'd chosen another door style in the same line of cabinets and not splurged on the backsplash and also could've bought much less expensive fabric for the banquette cushions.

Now that it's done, I'm almost sorry I don't have a second kitchen to do, because I made tons of mistakes with this one. Also, I'd bought a few things way in advance and before I found this website. If I'd found GW a little sooner, I would've made a few different choices here and there. Still, this is the first new kitchen I've ever had and by far the best.

The old:
kitchen before

And now:
April 9 2008

kitchen before

west wall

Before - north wall

north wall

breakfast nook before

Banquette & new chandelier

kitchen before

The tall utility cabinet is the same old one, with new paint, new door and added crown and baseboard:
Old tall cab repainted


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:31 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:31 pm

Question for kdwlisa

posted by: aunttomichael on 02.28.2008 at 07:50 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi, there! I have been following your renovation with interest. Your floor tile is gorgeous and I think the idea of combining the Cartwright vanity with the marble slab pedestal is brilliant. I can't wait to see the end result.

I was wondering if you'd share where you got the marble slab pedestal. Is it vintage? Now that I have two bathrooms now I am eyeing our little powder room downstairs....



clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:21 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:21 pm

B & W checkerboard/subway tile kids' bath

posted by: hoffman on 01.13.2008 at 08:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum








Kohler Memoirs toilet & sink
Kohler pinstripe faucets & accessories
Kohler villager tub (the only one that would fit)
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet, pushbutton switches & light fixtures
Daltile subway tile & black liners
marble mosaic checkerboard floor tile
Pottery Barn Kids towels & shower curtain
BM "white satin" paint
Nero Marquina (black) marble windowsill


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:17 pm

My DIY pics

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.02.2008 at 10:05 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I started the upstairs bath in my house in March, I finished this weekend. This portion of the house dates to 1905. I used chrome and white for the classic look, added the blue from an inspiration pic I saw on another website; I love cobalt blue anyway.
I moved everything around a little, the tub 3" over, the toilet 6" closer to the back wall (it was way out there), and the sink back into the arched alcove-- that space came from a deleted back stair hall, which is becoming a walk-in closet.

Shower valve


Who thinks should paint the refinished wood window trim white? I stripped it years ago, but now I have my doubts; The door trim is still painted white, and I'll have to make them match either way.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:16 pm

Finished Marble Parlor Bathroom

posted by: mrslimestone on 03.02.2008 at 07:44 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Im back to share another finished room. Hard to believe Im close to being done with my reno.

Anyway - here it is. The photos are a bit off (not sure what Im doing wrong when taking them) but the photos make the room look much darker and greener than it really is. In person, its a lot more serene of a scheme.

It has three bulbs (two at the mirror and one on the ceiling) and its really bright. The carrera marble is a blueish grey and the wall is a greenish grey.


Specs for those interested
-Carrera hex, subway tile, victorian rail and base
-Kohler Memoirs Toilet
-Porcher Pedestal sink & faucet
-Pottery Barn Mirror, Sconces, Shelf, TP holder, towel bar
-Colors : BM Gray Owl on wall, polished nickel finish on fixtures
-Clawfoot tub is original from my house (resprayed interior, painted with aluminum paint on exterior)

Thanks again for all the help and inspriration the regulars on this board have provided. This site was such a helpful resource throughout my reno, I really don't know how anyone renovates WITHOUT it.

PS: Yes I know the door swings the wrong way. Big oversight on my part but oh well.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:15 pm

RE: #@(*! Glass tile is making me crazy - mini subways, other id (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rococogurl on 07.19.2007 at 03:24 pm in Bathrooms Forum

First of all I would tile all the way to the ceiling on the main shower wall and on the window wall. I'd go over the window, tile the jut out, and behind the heating pipe. I have the same bathroom and the verticals make it look narrower. I'd get rid of them.

As for the horizontals -- If the mini subs are too expensive, why not use mosaic squares, which might save you as much as $6/foot?

Let me show you a bathroom done like that which I feel is gorgeous. I love the way that looks. I'd also run the color around the as a border at the same height as the top of the window, to create a line there and make it look more integral. There are 3 or 4 different sizes of tile done in the same color and it looks very rich. If the subs on the walls had been white and the borders and floor were the same then that also would be nice.

My friend only did wainscot tile because she doesn't have a regular shower in that bath, as you can see. But they put the rail at exactly the right height to tie in the window. I'm suggesting the reverse for yours, essentially.

Also, I'm not loving the very dark floor with nothing to tie it into on top. If you did a wenge look floor and then some java colored glass mosaics in the border it would make more sense to me than 3 colors that don't relate. The floor will look like an afterthought otherwise IMO. Alternately, use tile in one of the border colors on the floor.


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:06 pm

RE: What is the rationale for grey grout with white subway tile? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 06.26.2008 at 08:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is a light gray; Delorean Gray to be exact.
It just highlights the lines a bit. I never considered white.
Shower valve



clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:05 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:05 pm

RE: Does anyone have VARNISHED (not oiled/waxed) wooden counterto (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jenswrens on 09.29.2007 at 12:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too thought we could only use oil on our wood countertops, but after a few months I got really tired of doing it, it was a messy gross procedure, and it never really looked good. We don't cut on the countertops either, but I still didn't want a polyurethane or something toxic. I did want something that didn't require so much maintenance. So we sanded the tops down to get rid of the oil, applied mineral spirits, and decided to Waterlox them. OMG, what a difference. I love the way they look and feel now. They've held up great, even around the sink.

Waterlox is a tung-oil finish, but it doesn't need to be renewed monthly or built-up over time like mineral oil, so it's really not like "oiling the countertops." We used the Waterlox Original, which has a semi-gloss finish, but they do sell a satin finish as well (see the Products page at the link below). You probably don't want the marine or "bar-top" finish for your kitchen - brings to mind those awful super shiny tables in the restaurants in Florida I remember from my youth - you know with ropes and shells embedded in them. :-) Anyway, you can recoat without sanding, and it is super-easy to apply. It dries to a hard finish, and water beads up on it.

Here are some photos. This was after just one coat. They recommend 3-4 coats. Tung oil is non-toxic, but it is made from nuts, so be cautious if you have someone allergic to nuts in your household.

Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 05:03 pm

RE: DIY click Marmoleum--easy? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sleepydrj on 07.04.2007 at 05:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes yes yes!!!!
We just put in our marmoleum click kitchen floor 3 weeks ago. This was really easy and looks absolutely gorgeous! We did "Caribbean" and "serene grey" checkers. It was very easy to do.

I have several tips: we did another click floor last year using quickstep click planks. We got an "installation" kit to do that job. One tool is a metal plate with various bends in it so you can slip it under an edge and give a hammer tap at the very edge near a wall if needed. Another tool was a plastic block with a notch in it so you can place it against a tile and give a hammer tap if needed. These tools are incredibly useful for a completely professional and perfect installation. It is very important not to damage the click edge and these tools help protect the edges.

While the quickstep material required the use of these tools, they are not "required" for installing marmoleum. However the make the process easier. Be very careful if you do give hammer taps- you can end up moving a whole row slightly out of register which is a big problem if you are trying for perfect intersections as in a checkerboard.

The click tiles do give a tiny thump/tunk sound at the instant they go from almost perfectly done to "perfectly done". Use your ears as you install and it will go better. When the tiles are completely clicked, the seam is really tight.

As for the "ambering", I noticed when we first opened the boxes that the tiles were looking pretty yellow! I laid them out with large swatches of sample. Over the course of 3 hours I took photos. The ambering disappeared by the first evening. I will eventually post these photos on the site, as I think it would help prospective marmoleum lovers take the leap.

We are absolutely in love with our gorgeous floor and are also proud that it looks so impressive. It's not rocket science to do this, and we saved a ton of money.

The process for our kitchen took most of the time to plan the perfect placement of the diagonal center line of checkers. We were also doing a tricky edge so that added time too. The installation took a long day plus another evening. Compared to our other click floor (quickstep planks) the marmoleum was a little easier, but both were easy. We worked as a two person team, and I made more seed rows while hubby made trips to the table saw to cut the end pieces.


clipped on: 07.16.2007 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2007 at 08:44 pm