Clippings by mygroovyhouse

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RE: Franksmom! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: franksmom_2010 on 02.24.2011 at 11:35 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi Ttodd! Here's my floor cleaner recipe:

1/4 cup baking soda
1/4 cup white vinegar
*dish soap -I use about half a teaspoon, but I have really soft water, so if you have normal or hard water, you can use more)
disolve that in a gallon of very hot water.

I use it to mop ceramic tile and vinyl. I was using Mr. Clean or Lysol floor cleaners before, and was shocked at how much residue it left on the floors.

All purpose cleaner:

1 tablespoon borax
2 cups hot water
3 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon dish soap

Stir until the borax is disolved, then pour into a spray bottle. I use a 19oz bottle, and just wrote the recipe on the bottle with a Sharpie. I've used it on Formica, fiberglass, glass, ceramic, finished wood, painted wood, stainless steel, porcelain, and vinyl, and haven't had any problems. I also use it to clean jewelry, and have used it as a spot remover on carpet. It works really, really well on grout, too.

The original recipes said that you could add a few drops of essential oil for more fragrance, but most essential oils are toxic to cats, so I don't use them. If you have pets, check with your vet. The rest of it is totally nontoxic at that dilution.

I found the floor cleaner recipe when Frank was a kitten, and he would follow me around the house when I was mopping, and walk all over the wet floor. I didn't think the Lysol on his paws was safe, and turns out, it's not.

DH used to always complain of headaches from the fumes when I would clean, and as we were trying to eliminate other chemicals from our diet, I started searching for nontoxic cleaners. You can certainly buy those things at the grocery now, but it's just so much easier and cheaper to make your own. Also, I've never had a problem with fumes, like if you use bleach in the toilet and shower and the all-purpose on the mirror and vanity, the combination doesn't make any sort of noxious combo.

Both cleaners are cheap, easy to make, smell nice but not overwhelming (I use a lemon dish soap, so it smells faintly citrus-y) and work well. I made my own Swiffer pads out of cheap microfiber cloths, and use the all-purpose cleaner sprayed on one of those for touch ups and spills in between mopping.

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 10:19 pm

RE: White Meets Life (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: ttodd on 02.24.2011 at 09:48 am in Home Decorating Forum

Chris - 1 cup Borax to 1 cup Arm and Hammer Washing Soda (some places carry it otherwise I use Arm and Hammer Baking Soda) and 1 bar of grated/ shaved Ivory Soap. The Borax and the Arm and Hammer are usually on a bottom shelf in the laundry aisle of the grocery store. Use 1 Tbsp to a load of laundry. It does not suds up very much so don't worry .

The cost savings have been great (Maybe a total of $7-9 for everything) and I'm going 3 months using the same batch I made of 1+1+1 bar soap. I anticipate getting almost 1 year out of my $7-9 investment.

My mom adds natural lavendar oil to her mix and my sister adds something else.

I still use Shout on stains like before.

Great advice Vivian (and what a cutie!). I wonder what the chances are of the next cat that 'homes' us being white are?

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 10:18 pm

RE: 2 questions (with pics) under the stairs space & figurines (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: palimpsest on 12.09.2010 at 08:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I actually think that a collection that is meaningful should be embraced, and a dedicated shelf for them will be great. For things like this that are not all "fine" collectibles, I don't really agree with displaying them in rotation and having only a few out. These aren't competing pieces of elaborate Lladro High Porcelain, they are, in essence, mixed quality tchochkes that were not collected for their quality, but for their meaning. And for me, the "banality" for lack of a better word, of the individual piece is overcome by the volume or number of pieces. My wall of Keane prints would only be a piece of 60s kitsch if there were one print, and my collection of fairly generic danish modern candlesticks might not be worth keeping out if I had 6...but I have 6 Dozen, so they are all out, all the time. I actually think this is one of the instances where a collection is diminished is if is used as a decorative element mixed in with a group of things balanced by size and interspersed on bookshelves. (My least favorite statement about bookshelves is 1/3 books, 1/3 decorative objects and 1/3 space). I like 99 % books some things crammed in front of them, maybe, and 1% space to get my finger in for the book. This collection should be considered exactly what it is, a collection of a specific type of object, and if its display seems museum like rather than purely decorative,,,so be it.

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 10:07 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 10:07 pm

RE: Creating 'Built-In' Bookcases from Ikea?? rmKitchen? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: sarschlos_remodeler on 08.28.2008 at 04:32 pm in Home Decorating Forum

running -- go to ikea.com and download their room planner (doesn't work on a Mac, but is very easy to use if you have a PC). This will give you ideas about bookcase configurations and allow you to see what will fit in the room.

Then go to ikeafans.com to get information about ways to dress up the bookcases.

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 07:52 pm

MsRose (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: texashottie on 05.27.2009 at 11:50 am in Home Decorating Forum

Laurie, I used a cheap muslin to attach to my linen. It's what I had on hand, but it would be nice if you used something that matched better. It doesn't really show at all, but sometimes just the edge where they are seamed together does.

I stitched the velcro on it, then used a spray adhesive to attach the mate directly onto the mattress. So far, so good. It hasn't shifted at all, even when I slid the mattress to take these pics.

Photobucket

Btw, I do have side pleats halfway down the bed. :)

I attached the muslin first and then assimilated it over the mattress to see how to sew the corners. I wanted the linen skirt to drape nicely, so your mom will need to play with it. Once I got the corners to hang nicely and had the muslin overlapped properly, I pinned it then sewed it in place. (Excuse this part--it's not sewn very pretty)

Photobucket

Hope this helps you. You have a sweet mom. :)

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 01:11 pm

My Guest Room/Tufted Headboard Update (pics)

posted by: texashottie on 05.26.2009 at 09:55 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I know some of you remember my tufted headboard. My dad made it for me out of wood on one of his visits last summer. I padded it and covered it with fabric, and then my mom came out and helped me tuft it. I'd link to that old thread, but it has scrolled off now.

This is what it looked like back then:

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You'll recognize that this is the same toile linen that I'm using in my sewing room too.

Photobucket

Anyway, some of you have messaged me in the last few months for an update. I pretty much have all the sewing done now for that room. It's not finished, but here's what I got:

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I used all linen and trimmed it with velvet. The inverted-pleat bedskirt I made simply velcroes directly onto the bottom mattress. I found that Corinthian column to use as a night stand for $10 from a store that was getting rid of their display props. I spray-painted it black---it doesn't photograph well. The two watercolors in gilded frames are from England and I bought them at an auction.

I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for a second night stand I can re-purpose. I'm also looking for more gilded artwork for the other side of the bed, plus accessories.

This is the pillow up close. Since I used gilded artwork, I carried it through by trimming the pillow in gold silk, and embroidering my last initial. (I'm the *original* "Mrs. O"!)

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My dad made me that 10-foot long cornice board above the windows. I padded it and upholstered it in the linen/velvet combo. The drapes are fixed and non-functional, and I just hemmed them tonight to barely break at the floor. They are French-pleated at the top. The bamboo shades are lined with black-out so they keep the room dark. (There is a wicked cat hiding beneath that bed.)

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And here's another view of the room. It links to a small bathroom. It also has a small built-in desk next to the windows.

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Anyway, this is my dad's guest room since he did so much work on it. :)

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clipped on: 02.24.2011 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2011 at 01:02 pm

RE: What laminate counters for this bathroom? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: palimpsest on 06.03.2009 at 06:36 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I don't think laminate is a bad word :)

I tend to like the ones that have a bit of pattern without trying to hard to look like something:
SPA
SOLIDZ
SCREEN
REALCRETE
VIRRVARR
DUNE WOOD

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clipped on: 02.23.2011 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2011 at 10:19 pm

RE: Oh No! Navajo White is beiger than I thought! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: farmhousebound on 02.26.2009 at 04:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you do decide to re-paint, another vote for BM Mayonnaise. I will be using it on our cabinets but have been using for trim throughout the house and love it.

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clipped on: 02.23.2011 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2011 at 08:46 pm

RE: Anyone remodel but keep the 'feel' of a 60's or 70's kitchen? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 05.03.2010 at 01:03 am in Kitchens Forum

Also, Atomic Ranch Magazine. Love the photos in there and they have many ideas of people who kept to the original style of the era.

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clipped on: 02.23.2011 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2011 at 05:11 pm

RE: Anyone remodel but keep the 'feel' of a 60's or 70's kitchen? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: kaismom on 05.03.2010 at 12:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Others ar giving great advice stylistically but

Your budget is minimal... AND
The money that you throw on this will not be recouped because you have a "real" kitchen remodel in your future as I read from your post. First I would identify what is absolutely needed first. For example, replace only the appliances that you absolutely cannot live with or if it is broken.

In the mean time,
I would read about 1960s architecture. Educate yourself and see what aspect of that era's architecture appeals to you. Take one step at a time. Don't rush into this and throw good money at bad, if you are not planning on keeping this kitchen for the permanent future remodel. I think you have enough work (money hemorrhage) cut out for you rehabbing the other parts of the house.

Some names to work from:
Nutra, Eichler from California, and Eames, Corbusier, Sarrinen, Arne Jacobson from Europe etc you should be able to find lots of stuff.

Dwell magazine is a great resource. I would look at them at your local library.
Each region has a rich history of modern architects and their work.

I would do a little research and see what type of work they did locally. This is a good place to start to reproduce authenticity from that era if that is the way you end up going.

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clipped on: 02.23.2011 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2011 at 05:10 pm

RE: I would like to assoc. you with your home soooo (Follow-Up #62)

posted by: palimpsest on 11.11.2009 at 01:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Its just Benjamin Moore Ballet White, but it really works in that house. Everything is Ballet White throughout that floor, walls, ceiling and trim. (With the exception of a blue accent wall.)

It must be the light there, but it shifts and changes and at certain times of day, it looks like that. For houses with not much detail, this is my favorite thing to do--the oddly placed windows in this house got full length drapes or blinds (depending), all in that ballet white tone. It makes a warm envelope that everything sits inside of.

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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 09:17 pm

RE: match tile to white cabs or use a starker white? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: palimpsest on 05.18.2010 at 09:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think sometimes things have more dimension if they do not match exactly. Depending upon the finish of your cabinets the white will oxidize or yellow somewhat over time anyway, while the tile will remain constant. If you had two tiles that were identical in every way, I would probably match them, but if you like the beveled tile better, I would probably choose the beveled tile and embrace the difference.

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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 09:11 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 09:11 pm

RE: What will be outdated? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: palimpsest on 02.23.2010 at 01:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The best thing to do for longevity is to use colors and materials that are consistent with the style and age of your house. This doesn't mean a slavish duplication of a 1920 bath in a 1920 house, but something that acknowledges it. You can never go wrong with white tile and fixtures, and the addition of color in less durable items such as paint, towels etc.

A vanity faucet, light fixtures, towel bars are relatively easy to change so if you want to do something a bit more topical or trendy, those would be the places I would do that with fixtures.

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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 09:01 pm

RE: What will be outdated? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: palimpsest on 02.24.2010 at 01:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I will tell you how I handled a recent bathroom. The original bath was from 1965, the house is from 1840. There may have been a turn of the century full bath in the house, it is unclear...so the bath could be anything, since no such thing existed in 1840.

I used subway tile which is popular now, and probably would have been in the turn of the century bath in a slightly different form. I used octagon and dot tile which has been around for over half a century. The vanity blends with the doors in the house, which are Greek Revival. Kohler has been making the faucets I used since about 1960. The tub is basic white, the lighting is consistent with the first electric lighing the house wouldve had, and the Toto toilet is clearly modern.

So, stylistically little details are all over the place even though its a white tile bathroom. Its a little confusing as to when it was done. Its not a reproduction of the first bathroom that may have been in the house, its not a 2010 high style bath either: the subway tile and toilet are very current, but the other elements are a little less hard to pinpoint.

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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 09:00 pm

RE: What will be outdated? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: palimpsest on 02.25.2010 at 11:13 am in Bathrooms Forum

One of the things that you have to analyze in determining what has longevity and what becomes --the d word--is how many times that particular thing has been through the cycle.

The "modern" bathroom is a relatively new thing, so some fixtures, finishes and colors have only been through the cycle once--and some things have been perennial, but rare in every era.

White tubs and tile have never been out of the picture fully, although they were not popular from the 40s-70s., but many pastel colors have been through the cycle only once. Yellow has actually been through the cycle several times (once as harvest gold). I have been in houses of several vintages that have black toilets and sinks--never popular, but probably never out of production either.

The clawfoot or freestanding tub has probably been through the cycle three times now--the original time, when people started keeping them or reinstalling them, and now with the newer pedestal forms.

Marble and ceramic tile have been perennial, but small format glass tile and more rustic tiles such as travertine are really in their first cycle, at least in terms of common usage.

I think the items that will be wildly unpopular with the next generation will be various forms of vessel sinks, glass mosaic tiles, and rustic stone, bronze finishes---Not because there is anything the matter with them, but simply as a reaction to the newest (fads,trends,whatever) of this era that they want to reject in the next.

Certain materials that are trendy now will become classic or at least a reasonable choice, while some will end up in the "what were they thinking?" category...and this is not always easy to predict.

Again, I think it is the Combination of certain things that will tell age, rather than the specific item itself.

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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 08:58 pm